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INDEXPageGENERAL INSTRUCTIONS 2ASSEMBLY OF HUBS FITTED WITH TAPERROLLER BEARINGSPreparation 2Fitting 3Adjustment 3BRAKESAxles fitted with Girling brakes 4Axles fitted with Lockheed brakes 4Brake linings 4TORSION BAR AXLESReplacement 5Maintenance 5Boat trailer axles 5ELECTRIC BRAKE AXLESInitial adjustment6CHECKING THE ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT6CHECKING THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS61. Automatic controller bench check 62. Stop light switch 73. Hydraulic cylinder leakage 74. Magnet assembly 75. Magnet bench check 8CHECKING THE MECHANICALCOMPONENTS1. Bearings and seals 82. Armature plates 83. Brake adjustment 8BOAT TRAILER ELECTRIC BRAKES9SMOOTHA-HITCH 10Electrically operated reversing mechanism 10CHASSIS 10

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONSTo ensure satisfactory operation of all working parts thefollowing instructions should be carried out at intervals of3,000 miles or prior to the trailer remaining stationary forperiods exceeding six months unless otherwise stated.ASSEMBLY OF HUBS FITTED WITH TAPER ROLLERBEARINGSPREPARATION(a) The hub or the hub portion of a combined brakedrum and hub will have the taper roller bearing cupssecurely and accurately in position.WHEELSCheck tightness of wheel nuts.Check tyre pressures weekly and maintain the pressuresat maker’s recommendation. Any unusual pressure lossshould be investigated as under-inflation causes rapidtyre wear and may damage the cords of the fabric.(b) The interior of the hubsmust be clean beforeliberally packing with goodquality high melting pointtaper roller bearing greasei.e. Retinax ‘A’, Nulsec ‘L’ orequivalent.HUBS(c) The operating diametersof the axle must be clean.Remove hub cap. Check taper roller bearing adjustmentby rocking hub. There should be little or no perceptibleshake but should be complete freedom to rotate. (Forlubrication of taper roller bearings see “Assembly ofhubs fitted with taper roller bearings”).(d) The taper roller bearingcones must be greased as(b) ensuring that thegrease penetrates insidethe roller cage, betweenthe rollers and the cones,2

ADJUSTMENTFITTING(e) The inner bearingcone must be placedinside the inner bearingcup and the grease sealplaced into position insidethe hub.(g) The slotted nut must then be tightened using aspanner.(f) The hub subassemblymust then becarefully positioned onthe axle and supportedsquarely until the outerbearing cone has beenplaced in position insideits cup, the washerplaced against it, and theslotted nut handtightened against thewasher.If this procedure is notadhered to the greaseseal could be damaged.‘IIMPORTANT:Whilst this is being done the hub must be rotated byhand until it is locked by the tightening of the nut acuonthen slacken off the slotted nut through 120 (i.e. two fiatsI or until .003” to .007” end float is attained. Periodicchecks must be made to ensure that the end float ismaintained,NOTE! The hubs must not be struck with a malletThe selection of the appropriate slot to line up with thesplit pin hole must be made so that the end float isnearer to the .003” where possible. End float must neverbe less than .003” since too little will pre-load thebearings and result in premature failure.(h) The split pin must beinserted and the outsideleg bent over as shown.The inside leg must be cutshort.3

(j) The hub cap is placed intoposition and secured by tappingwith a mallet.Correct setting of compensated brake linkage on torsionBRAKESBefore attempting brake adjustment lift each wheel clear ofthe ground with a jack, and slacken off the hitch to brakelinkage.AXLES FITTED WITH GIRLING BRAKESAdjustment is effected by rotatingthe adjusting screw (A) at the rearof each brake backplate in aclockwise direction until the shoesare in contact with the drums andpreventing rotation of the hub; thescrew is then rotated three clicksin an anti-clockwise direction oruntil free rotation of wheel isobtained; re-set main brake linkage.bar axles.Correct setting of compensated brake linkage on squareAdjustment is effected by first removing the wheel, revealingAXLES FITTED WITH LOCKHEED BRAKESbeam axles.BRAKE LININGSthe plastic cap in the brake drum. Remove the cap androtate the drum until the adjusting screw appears in the hole.Using a screwdriver, rotate screw until shoes contact drumand prevent rotation of hub. Rotate screw in oppositedirection for three ‘clicks’, or until free rotation of the hub isobtained. Replace plastic cap and wheel. Re-set main brakelinkage.Inspect the brake liningsfor wear, If a lining isworn to the rivets itshould be replaced. If alining is badlycontaminated withgrease, oil etc., it mustbe replaced, sincecontamination of thistype cannot be sanded ordissolved out.IMPORTANT. Always replacebrake linings insets— on both brakes onthe same axle.4

TORSION BAR AXLESREPLACEMENTTo replace a torsion bar lift the side required with a jack.Remove swing arm cone screw and locknut. Removebar from the swing arm sub-assembly. Taking care to placedimple for screw location in the torsion bar adjacent toscrew hole, fit new torsion bar and replace locknut andscrew, tightening both to torque of 55-60 lb ft. Refit swingarm sub-assembly and replace locknut and screw,applying 55-60 lb. ft. torque. Reconnect brake end fittingand adjust as necessary. Replace wheel.MAINTENANCERemove swing arm sub-assembly on each side as outlinedabove.The following are necessary as an anti-corrosivemeasure. Grease torsion bar and ground sleeve attachedto swing arm. The recommended lubricants for allapplications are Retinax ‘A’, Nulsec ‘L’ or equivalent.BOAT TRAILER AXLESRemove the wheel. Remove brake cable end fitting fromabutments on underside of axle tube.On the required side and near the centre front, slackenSpecial attention should be given to boat trailer axleswhich are subjected to immersion during boat launchingsTo ensure the satisfactory operation of all working partsthe following instructions should be carried out at intervalsof six months or before trailer is stored.1. Carry out normal torsion bar and square beam axlemaintenance as previously stated2. Remove wheels. Remove plastic and wash out brakedrums with clean fresh water. Refit plastic caps andwheels. A short run after this operation using the brakes asmuch as possible will ensure thorough drying out forstorage.3.Remove hub caps. Inspect internal fittings forcorrosion. Repack with grease if required. Replace hub cap.the locknut on the axle tube. Remove the cone screwand locknut.Remove swing arm sub-assembly and torsion bar bytapping with mallet the inside face of swing arm close tothe tube.4. SPECIAL NOTE FOR CONTINUED SUBMERSION INSEA WATER.Where there has been submersion in the sea water for periodsof more than one hour washing out of brakes after eachsubmersion as outlined in (2) is essential for continuedsatisfactory operation.5

ELECTRIC BRAKE AXLESINITIAL ADJUSTMENTFor controllers fitted with hydraulic plungeradjustment.Before road use the controller lever should be turned toset the adjustment in the mean position.During initial road tests adjust the hydraulic plunger ifnecessary to give the optimum performance. Slightvariations may be carried out by rotation of thecontroller ever during towing to suit requirements.CHECKING THE ELECTRICAL CIRCUITTEST INSTRUMENTIn order to check the electrical circuit and components,a D. C. ammeter should be used (0-15 amps for 2 to 4brakes). However, in an emergency an automotivelamp may be used as a test bulb. Be sure to use anautomotive test bulb of the same voltage (6 volt or 12volt) as the trailer brakes.TESTING THE CIRCUITFirst check the continuity of the system. To do thisconnect the trailer to the towing vehicle, then place theammeter or test bulb in the circuit as shown in diagram.NOTE: Whenever connecting the ammeter, you canavoid possible damage to the ammeter by connectingone lead then just touching the other lead quickly. If theneedle goes over the wrong way the polarity is reversed.To correct, simply reverse the leads, then complete theconnection. Now operate the controller slowly. The cutinlowest current should read from 1 to 1Ö amp. Thereading will vary, depending on the voltage and thenumber of brakes in the system. For 8” and 9” dia. 2braked axles the amperage reading should be 5-6 for 12volt towing systems. If the ammeter registers the correcthigh and low readings and shows smooth current modulationyou may assume that the controller is functioningproperly. If you do not show the correct high and low or themodulation is poor, check the following electrical circuitproblems.If you are using a test light instead of an ammeter, the bulbshould be ‘out’ when the controller is ‘off’, burn dimly ascontroller application starts, and gradually burn morebrightly as the controller handle is moved toward ‘on’. In full‘on’ position the bulb should burn with maximumbrightness.CHECK WITHOUT TRAILERIf trailer is not available a quick check of the towing vehiclecircuit may be made by inserting the test bulb at the towingvehicle connector socket. Operate the controller slowly. If,as the controller handle is moved toward ‘on’ the light goesfrom dim to bright or the ammeter shows a gradual rise, thetowing vehicle circuit is probably alright.CHECKING THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTSWhen, after checking the circuit the trouble is located in aspecific component (such as the controller or a brakemagnet) it is advisable to remove this component andcheck it on the bench.1 AUTOMATIC CONTROLLER BENCH CHECKTo bench check the controller, connect to ammeter or testlight as shown in diagram.BE SUREPOLARITYIS CORRECTFOR METERUSE .5 OHMMINIMUMRESI STANCEIN CIRCUIT.

The ammeter or test light should vary smoothly from‘off’ to ‘on’. If it does not vary smoothly or shows nocurrent when the controller is at full ‘on’, remove thecontroller cover and inspect the resistor coil. If the coilis burned out, it must be replaced. A burned out coilcan be detected by visual inspection.CAUTION. The resistor coil should last indefinitelyunder normal operating conditions. If the coil is burnedout, carefully check the entire electrical system for ashort circuited condition. A short circuit can damageany electric brake controller.After replacing the coil be sure there is at least .020”clearance between the contactor strip and the coilwhen the controller handle is unapplied.HYDRAULIC.CYLINDER.020” GAPRESISTORCOIL.020” GAP3 HYDRAULIC CYLINDER LEAKAGEWhen checking the electrical circuit of the controller it isadvisable to check its hydraulic cylinder at the sametime, to be sure it is tight and free Of leakage.If leakage does occur it is recommended that thecomplete hydraulic cylinder assembly be replaced,When reconnecting the controller into the hydraulicsystem of the towing vehicle, bleed and checkconnections.4 MAGNET ASSEMBLYWithout removing the magnet assembly from the brake,inspect the magnet for wear and flatness. If the magnetrubbing surface is flat it need not be replaced until thefriction element shows signs of wearing through. To checkthe wearing surface for flatness lay a straight edge onthe magnet.ORIGINAL SURFACEABNORMALWEAR:STLAJ G~EDGENORMALWEAR~EPLACEMAG.ASSY.)j2 STOP LIGHT SWITCHAll K.H. controllers are now equipped with a separatestop light switch which allows full current supply to thetrailer stop lights throughout brake application. It shouldThis gap can be adjusted by loosening one screwthrough an access hole in the bottom of the controllercase.Before replacing with a new magnet determine thecause of the improper wear. First check the magnetlever pivot. A worn pivot bushing can cause the magnetlever to cock,. thus allowing the magnet to tip against thearmature plate.If this condition exists the lever assembly should bereplaced. When reinstalling magnets, be sure to install theloom (lead wires) properly, avoiding kinks and allowingample clearance for the lever to move through its full travel.Operate the lever in both directions to be sure the loommoves properly without binding, kinking, or interferingwith lever movement.7

5 MAGNET BENCH CHECK CHECKING THE MECHANICAL COMPONENTSTo check electrically remove the magnet for bench test.To check for a possible coil-to-case short, connect themagnet in series with the ammeter (or suitable test bulb)BE SURE METERPOLARITY IS CORRECT1 BEARINGS AND SEALSRemove the hub, drum and armature plate assembly.The procedure for doing this and reassembling isoutlined earlier. Inspect the bearing cups and cones forwear and damage. If damaged replace with new bearingcups and cones. ALWAYS replace cups and cones insets. Inspect seals for damage; replace if necessary.2 ARMATURE PLATESMAGNET LEADSas shown. Since the short may be intermittent, move theleads and rap the magnet while checking. If the ammetershows current or the test bulb lights, a short is present.Replace with a new magnet assembly.To check for possible shorts within the magnet coil,connect as shown.BE SURE METERPOLARITY IS CORRECTInspect the armature plates. Under normal conditionsthe armature plate should last indefinitely However, if anarmature plate shows excessive surface damage due tosevere contamination (mud, small stones etc.) it caneasily be replaced. If only one plate is damaged, onlythe damaged plate needs to be replaced.BRAKE LININGSee General Instructions, page 4.3 BRAKE ADJUSTMENTThe brake adjusting screw is at the bottom of the brakeand is accessible through an opening in the back plate,which is sealed with a plug. After removing the plug theadjusting screw may be turned in either direction withthe blade of a screwdriver. While spinning the wheel,turn the adjusting screw until the wheel has a heavydrag, then back off until the wheel turns freely. Replacethe plug to keep out dirt and moisture.MAGNET LEADSCheck current, which should be 2½ to 3 amps. If thecurrent value does not register on the ammeter, themagnet should be replaced.

BOAT TRAILER ELECTRIC BRAKESSpecial attention should be given to boat trailer brakeswhich are subjected to immersion during boatlaunchings. The General Instructions for torsion baraxles covering boat trailer operation are applicable.Before storing trailer, it is advisable to remove thebrake drums and inspect the brake assembly. It isessential that all parts are dry and free from corrosion.If necessary, disassemble the brake, clean the shoes,back plate etc., then lightly lubricate the anchor,magnet pivot, shoe contact joints on the back plates,and the adjuster assembly.Inspect bearings and bearing seals; replace ifnecessary. Repack bearings and re-assemble drumand wheel assembly, (see page 2).q

CHASSISSMOOTHA HITCHThe design of the hitch is such that the maintenancerequired is kept to a minimum.It is only necessary to lubricate all the pivot points,grease through both grease nipples, and ensure that thesocket of the coupling head is well lubricated. Therecommended lubricant is Retinax ‘A’, Nulsec ‘L’ orequivalent.ELECTRICALLY OPERATED REVERSING MECHANISMFor maintenance of the hitch and axle units look underthe appropriate headings.It is essential that the brake linkage is kept free from dirtand rust, and is lubricated regularly at the pivot points.This will ensure that the braking system functionsefficiently.The brake linkage adjustment is at the hitch and on themain brake rod.Lubricate ‘jack leg’ pivot points, and grease main threads.Occasionally make visual checks for damage to jack legsand chassis members.The general maintenance is the same as for the manualSmootha Hitch.NOTE: It is essential that the reverse lever inside thehitchbox and the top of the hitch base plate are keptclean and free from grease. If this is not done, there isthe possibility of the reverse lever sticking to the baseplate so making the reverse mechanism of the hitchinoperative.Periodically check that wiring and the electrical connectionsare in good condition.SUPPLY OPERATING THREE - PIN WATERPROOFBATTERY SWITCH PLUG AND SOCKETMICRO- SWITCH

NOSE WEIGHTS1973 1974M 2 103 lbs 101lbsG 2 83 lbs 77lbsG 4 92 lbs 91 lbsGN 110 lbs 100 lbsGD 114 lbs 110 lbsGG 149 lbs 135 lbsGM 114 lbs 103 lbsGA 119 lbs 106 lbsGE 169 lbs 157 lbsC 103 lbs 99 lbsN.B. The actual nose weight of each caravan does notnecessarily correspond to the recommended nose weightwhilst on tow.V12 M 2 G4 G2 GD GN 90 - 100lbsC GG GA GM GE 110 – 120 lbs