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Dubrovnik’s finest RestaurantSixth most romanticrestaurant in the worldvoted by Condé Nast TravellerBrsalje 3, DUBROVNIKOpen: 12 - 24Located by the Pile Gatet: + 385 (0)20 / 44 25 26www.esculap-teo.hrESCULAP-TEOTradition, Quality & CreativityFish RestaurantOld TOwnŠiroka no.1, DUBROVNIKOpen: 11 - 23t: + 385 (0)20 / 32 32 34www.esculap-teo.hr

GradDubrovnikAn d r o Vl a h u š i ćGradonačelnik Grada DubrovnikaMayor of DubrovnikDr a g i p o s j e t i t e l j i,dobrodošli u Dubrovnik, Grad ljepote, sklada,materijalnog i duhovnog bogatstva stvaranog stoljećima.Kao gradonačelnik turističke perle Mediteranaželim Vam ugodan boravak u Gradu koji je dostignućimasvojih pjesnika, književnika, znanstvenika igraditelja duboko utkan u hrvatsku kulturu i baštinukoje su oduvijek svjedočile o njegovoj pripadnostieuropskom, uljuđenom i naprednom svijetu.Čast mi je biti na čelu ovakvoga Grada, ali istodobnoosjećam i veliku odgovornost za njegov napredaki razvoj koji će učiniti život u njemu ugodnijim iljepšim, stalnim žiteljima i gostima. U ovom Graduživi se po mjeri čovjeka. Volio bih da i Vi osjetite tuharmoniju čovjeka i njegovoga djela.U ime Grada Dubrovnika i svoje osobno ime želimVam dobrodošlicu. Prepustite mu se i uvijek ćetemu se vraćati.De a r Visitors,Welcome to Dubrovnik, the City of beauty, harmony,and material and spiritual wealth that has beengenerated for centuries.As the mayor of this tourist pearl of the Mediterranean,I wish you a pleasant stay in the City, which– owing to the achievements of its poets, writers,scientists and architects – has been deeply implantedin the Croatian culture and heritage that havealways testified to its belonging to the European,civilized and progressive world.It is an honour to be at the head of such a city. Atthe same time I feel a great responsibility for itsprogress and development that will make the livesof its residents and guests more pleasant and beautiful.People in this City live in accordance with highhuman standards. I would like you to also experiencethis harmony of man and his accomplishments.In the name of the City of Dubrovnik and in myown name, I wish you welcome to Dubrovnik.Embrace it, and you will always come back.Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k / We l c o m e to Du b r o v n i k3

Je l k a Te p š i ćDirektorica TZ Grada DubrovnikaDubrovnik Tourist Board DirectorPopiti capuccino na Stradunu i kušatidomaće slastice užitak je u Dubrovnikui u prosincu, i u siječnju, i u veljači,jer godišnje brojimo i do dvjesto šezdesetsunčanih dana pa zima u Gradu i nijezima ogrnuta u kaput, već je najčešćeokupana suncem. Zima u Dubrovniku jei listanje novog broja časopisa Welcometo Dubrovnik.Ljepotu kamenoga Grada i “zimski đir”stanovnika koji prolaze Stradunom svakogadana naviknuti na čaroliju koja ihokružuje, u mjesecima kad ga ne preplavljujumnogobrojni posjetitelji, zabilježioje svojom kamerom Oskarovac i zaljubljeniku naš Grad Jiri Menzel,u pomnobiranim kadrovima otkrivajući kamenedetalje od čije ljepote zastaje dah.Zadovoljstvo stalnog otkrivanja dubrovačkihpriča i zanimljivosti, ljudi i osobnostikoji su obilježili povijest i sadašnjostnudi upravo naš “Welcome” čiji dvadesetibroj s ponosom predstavljamo.Dvadeset brojeva je i deset godina u kojimaje “Welcome to Dubrovnik” izgradiosvoj image časopisa koji živi s ovimnašim i vašim Gradom, čuvajući njegovonasljeđe, poštujući baštinu i sve slavnepretke koji su ga svojim umijećem gradilii sačuvali. Grad koji je dio svjetskogakulturnoga nasljeđa UNESCO -a već višeod trideset godina, po našem mišljenju,treba i zaslužuje ovakav časopis koji seosmišljava predano i pozorno, stvara ioblikuje istinskom kreativnošću, realiziras ponosom.Prije nego u Vaše ruke dođe posebnoizdanje časopisa Welcome, otkrijtesadržaj ovog zimskog broja koji, kao isvaki prethodni, donosi niz zanimljivihpriča iz dubrovačke prošlosti i sadašnjosti.Upoznajte se sa životom jednog odbriljantnih znanstvenih umova rođenihu Dubrovniku: zanesenjaka, putnika imatematičara Ruđera Boškovića, saznajtekoja se dubrovačka „svjetska čuda“kriju u novootvorenom Prirodoslovnommuzeju, zašto je Festa sv. Vlaha, zaštitnikaGrada Dubrovnika, upisana na listuUNESCO-ve zaštićene nematerijalnebaštine. Uživajte u pripovijestima o„malim“ ljudima, starim zanatlijama,strancima koji to više u Dubrovnikunisu, ili strancima koji su zaljubljeni unjegovu kamenu ljepotu i koji čeznuza njim kada su u svojim domovima u„dalekom svijetu“. Otkrijte nepoznatustranu Grada s kojim je lako doživjetiljubav na prvi pogled!Having a cappuccino in Stradunand savouring local sweet delicaciesare the things you can enjoy in Dubrovnikalso in December, January andFebruary. Winter doesn’t wear a coatin the City, because we have 260 sunnydays a year. In winter you can read thenew issue of the Welcome to Dubrovnikmagazine too.The beauty of the stone city in themonths when it is not crowded withvisitors was recorded by the camera ofthe Oscar-winning director Jiri Menzel.This lover of the City captured thebreathtaking stone details and the „winterlife“ of local people who walk alongStradun every day, used to the magicwhich surrounds them.Our Welcome magazine, whose 20thissue we proudly present, offers thepleasure of never-ending revealing theDubrovnik stories, curiosities and personalitieswho have marked its past andpresent.It took the Welcome to Dubrovnik twentyissues and ten years to build the imageof a magazine which breathes with thisCity, cherishing its legacy and respectingits heritage and all glorious ancestorswho have built and preserved itwith their art. We believe that, as oneof UNESCO World Heritage Sites formore than thirty years, Dubrovnikneeds and deserves such a magazine,which has been conceptualised withdedication and attentiveness, createdwith true inventiveness, and realizedwith pride.Before you get a copy of the forthcomingspecial issue of Welcome to Dubrovnik,enjoy the contents of this winter issuewhich, like all the preceding ones,contains a number of intriguing storiesfrom Dubrovnik’s past and present.Learn about the life of one of brilliantscientific minds born in Dubrovnik,the visionary, traveller and mathematicianRuđer Bošković, find out whichDubrovnik’s „wonders of the world“ arehidden in the newly-opened Natural ScienceMuseum, and why the Festival ofSt Blaise, the patron of Dubrovnik, wasincluded in UNESCO Intangible Heritageof Humanity List. Enjoy the storiesabout „ordinary“ people, old tradesmen,the foreigners no longer in Dubrovnik,or about the foreigners in love with itsstone beauty who long for it in theirfaraway homes. Discover the unknownside of the City one easily falls in lovewith at first sight!4 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

Dvadeset brojevau deset godina!Više od 364 naslova, 126700 primjerakate 60 suradnika, neki suod podataka koji opisuju Naš iVaš časopis Welcome to Dubrovnik, kojegsmo dosad poslali na gotovo 2000 adresa odDubrovnika do Sidneya.Sve je počelo tijekom ljeta 2001. kada samse prvi put susreo s časopisom Welcome toZagreb Turističke zajednice grada Zagreba.Od tog trenutka smišljao sam način, maštaoo mogućnosti pokretanja sličnog dubrovačkogčasopisa te uporno nagovarao tadašnjudirektoricu gđu. Miloš da me podupre umojoj nakani. Upornost se isplatila. Na mojuveliku radost u proljeće te godine dobio samzeleno svjetlo za prvi broj. Pomoć sam zatražiood zagrebačkih kolega i njihovog marketiškogpartnera Masmedie, a već nakon dvabroja cjelokupan posao obavljali smo sami.U Uredničko vijeće okupili smo izuzetnodrage ljude, koji su pomagali savjetima iiskustvom pri tematskom osmišljavanjumagazina, i to: Aidu Cvjetković, Tildu Bogdanović(i danas su u Vijeću),Sonju Kise,AsjuSkaramuca, Miru Muhoberac, Josipa Ivanovića,Pera Portolana i Vedrana Benića. Već naprvome sastanku dogovorili smo, i teme, iautore prvoga broja.Za stručnu pomoć zamolili smo poznatudubrovačku novinarku Jelku Tepšić (našudanašnju direktoricu) koja je predano obavljaladodijeljenu joj zadaću do sedmogabroja kada ju je naslijedila novinarka LidijaCrnčević.Iako smo svi strahovali kako će kod domaće istrane publike naš “Welcome” biti prihvaćenpokazalo se da za strah nije bilo razloga. Našprvi broj naišao je na odobravanje svih onihkoji su ga imali u ruci, bilo da smo im gaposlali ili su ga dobili u hotelskim sobama,na sajmovima i prezentacijama diljem svijeta,u predstavništvima Hrvatske turističkezajednice ili našim veleposlanstvima. Primilismo brojne pohvale popraćene mišljenjem daje takav časopis već odavno bio potreban, aopća ocjena bila je : odličan!Nikša BenderGlavni urednik / Editor-in-chief20Broj / Number6 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

Napisao/By Nikša BenderDizajneri, fotografi, lektori kao i brojni drugisuradnici mjenjali su se i međusobno nadopunjavali,a stalni suradnici ostali su novinarNikola Šubić i tiskara ALFA 2, koja je osimbroja 11 kvalitetno i na vrijeme tiskala ostalebrojeve. Sigurno je i kvaliteta tiska doprinijelada ovaj dvadesetogodišnjak s nepresušnim temamao Gradu jučer , danas i sutra, nađe svojemjesto pri vrhu ovakvih turističkih edicija uHrvatskoj što najbolje potvrđuje činjenica daje njegovu kvalitetu prepoznao i Međunarodnižiri INTERSTASA koji mi je 2005. dodijelioDIPLOMU za uređenje prvih deset brojeva.Bio je to poticaj, ne samo meni, nego i svimmojim dragim suradnicima, da svaki sljedećibroj osmislimo kvalitetnije, veseleći sedanas slavljeničkomdvadesetom broju.Win t e r 2010/11Twenty issuesin ten years!Međutim, bez Vaše podrške, dragi čitatelji,ne bismo uspjeli! Hvala Vam na vjernosti ipodršci. Obećavamo Vam nove uspješniceispisane prekrasnim stranicama o Gradu kojije “nama sve, a čiji smo mi samo stanovnici”(prema Luko Paljetak). Na taj način građanimaDubrovnika, ali i našim gostima želimopokloniti priču o našemu Gradu koji je jedinstvenapozornica kulturne baštine čovječanstva.Ponosni smo što smo sudjelovali ustvaranju njegovih prvih dvadeset brojeva,a radosni jer smo uljepšali Vaše životne trenutkedok ste ih čitali. Posebnu zahvalnostdugujemo našim dragim sponzorima koji suod prvog trenutka shvatili opravdanost i ciljnašega rada te nas podržavali i poticali.More than 364titles, 126700copies and 60collaborators are some of thedetails that describe our andyour Welcome to Dubrovnik magazine,which we have sent to almost2000 addresses from Dubrovnik toSydney.Everything began in the summerof 2000, when I first met with theZagreb Tourist Board’s Welcome to Zagrebmagazine. From that moment on, Idreamed about the possibility of startinga similar magazine in Dubrovnik, and kepton persuading the then director Mrs. Milošto support my idea. My persistence paid off.To my immense joy, the following spring Igot the green light for the first issue. I askedour Zagreb colleagues and their marketingpartner Masmedia for assistance, and alreadyafter two issues we were capable of doing theentire work ourselves.We established the Editorial Board whichconsisted of a number of outstandinglynice people who helped us conceptualizeour magazine with their advice and experience.They included Aida Cvjetković, TildaBogdanović (they have been the EditorialBoard members until this day), Sonja Kise,Asja Skaramuca, Mira Muhoberac, JosipIvanović, Pero Portolan and Vedran Benić.We determined the topics and authors of ourfirst issue already during our first meeting.We turned to the renowned Dubrovnik journalistJelka Tepšić (our present-day Director)for expert assistance, and she performed thattask with dedication until the seventh issue,when she was succeeded by the journalistLidija Crnčević.Although all of us were apprehensive ofhow our Welcome would be accepted by thelocal and international public, our fear wasgroundless. Already the first issue was metwith the approval of everyone who eitherreceived the magazine by mail or found itin their hotel rooms, at different fairs andpresentations all over the world, at theCroatian Tourist Board branch offices andat the Croatian embassies. We were widelypraised, the readers claimed that they neededsuch a magazine for a long time, and thegeneral feeling was: well done! A largenumber of designers, photographers, proofreadersand other collaborators have succeededand complemented each other, whilethe permanent collaborators have includedthe journalist Šubić and the ALFA 2 printingcompany, which – with the exceptionof the 11th issue – printed all the issues ontime, meeting high standards. The printingquality is also responsible for the fact thatthis twenty-year-old, with its inexhaustibletopics on the City's past, present and future,has been highly ranked among the Croatiantourist publications of the kind. This is bestconfirmed by the fact that its quality wasrecognised in 2005 by the INTERSTASinternational jury, which awarded our magazinewith a DIPLOMA for the editing of thefirst ten issues.It was an encouragement - not only to me,but to all my precious collaborators - tomake top quality concepts for every forthcomingissue, looking forward to its, nowanniversary, twentieth issue.However, without your support, dear readers,we wouldn't have succeeded! Thankyou for your faithfulness and your support.We promise wonderful new hit issues witharticles about the City which is everything tous, who are merely its residents. In this waywe wish to present the residents and guestsof Dubrovnik with a story of our City, whichis a unique stage of the cultural heritage ofhumanity. We are proud of taking part in thecreation of the first twenty issues of Welcome,and happy for enhancing the moments youspent reading them. We owe special gratitudeto our dear sponsors, who from the verystart understood the justification and goal ofour work and gave us their precious supportand encouragement.Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 7

Dubrovnik- Isto lijep i drugačijiDubrovnik je zimi Grad koji privlači goste željne drugačijeg ugođaja od onogakoji se nudi u ljetnim gužvama, pod vrelim sunčevim zrakama. Nije dosadan,uvijek je isto lijep i drugačiji. Dubrovnik se zimi može upoznati na intimnijinačin, kroz običaje i tradiciju koja se slavi na njegovim ulicama i diše u ritmuiskonske biti Grada.Bo ž i ć u Gr a d uUnesco-v grad svjetske baštine, Dubrovnik, u prosinačko blagdansko vrijemezasjat će čarobnim dekoracijama i iskriti okićen svjećicama stvarajući ugođaj bajkovitogrenesansnog grada.U mjesecu darivanja održat će se Božićni sajam, na kojemće se predstaviti tradicijski obrti koji će izložiti svoje rukotvorine. Ugostiteljiće nuditi božićne kolačiće i slastice, kuhano vino, bruštulane mjendule (bademe ušećeru), tradicionalne dubrovačke slastice: kontonjatu, mantalu, prikle, hrostule idruge delicije koje se pripremaju za ovo svečarsko vrijeme. Uz zvuk božićnih napjevaSajam će biti otvoren od blagdana Sv. Nikole do Sveta tri kralja.Ch r i s t m a s in t h e Ci t yAt the time of the December holidays the UNESCO World Heritage City ofDubrovnik will glow with magical decorations and sparkle with fairy lights,creating the atmosphere of a fairy-tale renaissance city. In the month of gift givingthe Christmas Fair will take place featuring the traditional trades and handicrafts.The caterers will offer Christmas cookies, sweet delicacies, mulled wine,bruštulani mjenduli (candied almonds), and traditional Dubrovnik sweet delicaciesincluding kontonjata (quince cheese), mantala (must cheese), prikle (doughnuts),hrostule (deep fried biscuits) and other delicacies prepared for this holidaytime. To the accompaniment of Christmas songs , the fair will be opened from StNicholas Day until Epiphany.Do č e k No v e g o d i n en a St r a d u n uNa Staru godinu, 31. prosinca, dubrovačkiizvođači glazbenim će programomispratiti Staru godinu, uz tradicionalnudubrovačku kolendu i cjelodnevni glazbeniprogram, što će biti najbolji mogućiuvod u najluđu noć. Brojni posjetiteljiDubrovnika Novu 2011. godinu dočekatće uz nastup hrvatskih zvijezda.Posebna poslastica posjetiteljima Gradabit će Novogodišnji koncert Dubrovačkogsimfonijskog orkestra na Stradunu,prvog dana Nove 2011., uz najljepšeoperne skladbe koje će dodatno začinitinezaboravni provod u dubrovačko novogodišnjevrijeme.8 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

Napisala/By Lidija CrnčevićzimiDubrovnik In Winter- Equally Beautiful, yet DifferentDubrovnik in winter is a city which attracts the visitors who wish to experience theatmosphere different from that in the summer characteristic of crowds and hot raysof the sun. Everything but boring, it is equally beautiful, yet different. In winter one canget acquainted with Dubrovnik in a more intimate way, through the customs and traditionwhich is celebrated in its streets breathing in the rhythm of the City’s primeval essence.Ne w Ye a r’s Pa r t yin St r a d u nOn New Year’s Eve, 31 December, the musiciansof Dubrovnik will see the old year outwith traditional Dubrovnik carols and a musicprogramme lasting all day, which will be thebest possible introduction to the wildest night.Numerous visitors to Dubrovnik will beginthe New Year 2011 entertained by Croatianstars. The Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra’sNew Year’s concert in Stradun on New Year’sDay will be a special gift to the visitors. Theorchestra will perform the most beautiful operaticpieces that will additionally enhance theunforgettable New Year’s fun in Dubrovnik.Fe s ta s v e t o g a Vl a h aOd daleke 972. kad se započinje slaviti dan sv. Vlaha, zaštitnika GradaDubrovnika posve je posebna, tipična, dubrovačka Festa. Uz otvaranjeFeste na Gospu Kandeloru, svečanu procesiju koja na Stradunu okupljamnoštvo vjernika, niz je crkvenih i svjetovnih koncerata, izložaba, predstavljanjaknjiga i kazališnih gostovanja posvećenih dubrovačkom zaštitniku,čiji nas kipovi motre s vrata i zidina, a brižna ruka čuva Dubrovnik nadlanu, već više od tisuću ljeta.Fe s t i va l o f St Bl a i s eThe Festival of St Blaise, Dubrovnik patron saint, has been a very specialholiday for the people of Dubrovnik ever since the year 972, when theystarted to celebrate it. Beginning on Candlemass Day with a solemn processionof numerous congregation members, the Festival includes a seriesof church and secular concerts, exhibitions, book presentations and theatreguest performances dedicated to the Dubrovnik patron saint, whose statueslook at us from the city walls and gates, and whose caring hand hasprotected Dubrovnik on his palm for more than a thousand years.Win t e r 2010/11Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 9

Dubrovnik zimi / Dubrovnik In WinterFe s ta o d k a m e n i c aKamenice su najzrelije i najukusnije u ožujku kadase slavi blagdan Sv.Josipa, a gastro stručnjaci spominjuda je kamenice najbolje služiti svježe otvorenei začinjene limunovim sokom. Baš takve, svježeotvorene i s mirisom mora možete kušati od 19. do22. ožujka u dubrovačkim i stonskim restoranima.Festa od kamenica je gastro manifestacija, koja je,osim ponude ovih školjaka i jela prigotovljenih odnjih (juha od kamenica, pohane kamenice, zapečenekamenice, pržene ili pečene kamenice na razne načine)popraćena i dalmatinskom pjesmom i kapljicomdobroga vina.Oy s t e r Fe s t i va lOysters are fullest and most delicious in March,when St Joseph’s Day is celebrated. Gastro expertsclaim that oysters are best served freshly openedwith some lemon juice. You will have the opportunityto taste the freshly opened oysters smelling ofthe sea from 19 to 22 March at the restaurants inDubrovnik and Ston. The Oyster Festival is a gastroevent which offers oysters and oyster dishes (oystersoup, oyster fritters, roasted oysters, fried or bakedoysters in various ways) along with the Dalmatiansong and a glass of good wine.Du b r o va č k i k a r n e v oI naši su stari ludovali, pa možemo i mi ... izreka je koja se u Dubrovnikučuje u vremenu karnevalskih svečanosti, vremenu kad je svedopušteno, kad ljudi postaju netko drugi ili pak pokazuju svoje pravolice... Tijekom karnevala u Dubrovniku osjetite posebnu atmosferušale, smijeha, veselja, radosti, satire... osjetite posebni duh Grada uvrijeme Karnevala!Karnevalske svečanosti u Dubrovniku će 2011. godine biti obogaćenedodatnim sadržajem pod nazivom “Dubrovnik Karneval fest”, jedinstvenimspojem karnevala i glazbenog festivala koji počinje u veljačlii završava u ožujku, uz sudjelovanje najpoznatijih grupa i udruga izkarnevalskih gradova Hrvatske i susjednih zemalja.Du b r o v n i k Ca r n i va lOur ancestors had fun, and so should we... is a proverb which one canhear in Dubrovnik in February during the carnival, the time wheneverything is allowed, when people become someone else or showtheir true face... Experience the special atmosphere of the Dubrovnikcarnival festivities characteristic of jokes, laughter, merriment, joyand satire. Feel the special spirit of the City during the Carnival!In 2011 the carnival festivities in Dubrovnik will be enhanced by aspecial event entitled the Dubrovnik Karneval Fest, a unique combinationof the carnival and the music festival which begins in Februaryand ends in March. The participants will include the best-knowngroups and societies from the carnival cities of Croatia and neighbouringcountries.10 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

Poznati DubrovčaniNapisao Vinicije B. LupisJosip Ruđer BoškovićZanesenjak, znanstvenik, putnik, diplomat...Josip Ruđer Bošković(Dubrovnik, 18. V.1711.– Milano, 13. II.1787.), fizičar,matematičar, astronom, geodet, inženjer,pjesnik, filozof i diplomat ostavioje neizbrisiv trag u hrvatskoj i svjetskojznanosti.Win t e r 2010/11Podrijetlom je iz trgovačke obitelji,koja je dala hrvatskoj kulturi i znanostiiznimno značajne osobe. Poput njegovesestre pjesnikinje Anice Bošković, braćepjesnika: Bara, Ivana Dominika i Petra, iRuđer Bošković je već zarana osjetio žeđza stjecanjem znanja ona ga je odvelau avanturu koja je trajala cijelinjegov život. Prve korakeu školovanju započeoje u Dubrovniku, anastavio u Rimu.Po završetku studiranjana CollegiumuRomanumu i preuzimanjaugledne katedre,već se od 1736. istaknuoobjavljivanjem raspravau duhu njutizma.Mladi Ruđerne vraća se u Dubrovnik, već ostaje uItaliji, gdje su mogućnosti napredovanjabile veće nego u Dubrovniku i zajedno sgrofom Francescom Garampijem, astronomom,motri prolaz Merkura ispred Suncate upoznaje astronomske instrumente imetodologiju rada. Bošković je svestran panastavlja svoj rad u matematici, astronomijii književnosti.Godine 1742. povjerenamu je važna zadaća da istraži pukotine nakupoli Sv. Petra u Rimu, a istodobno je biozaokupljen obnovom luka Rimini i Savona,te razgraničenjem voda između Luccei Toskanskog vojvodstva. Cijeloga svogaživota ostao je trajno vezan sa svojomdomovinom – Dubrovačkom Republikom,za koju je često obavljao brojne delikatnediplomatske poslove, kao i svojom obitelji,naročito majkom i sestrom, s kojimarazmjenjuje nježna pisma na hrvatskomejeziku. Među brojnim talijanskim akademijamabio je članom bolonjske Akademijei rimske Arkadije, gdje će za članapredložiti Voltairea, koji će mu na tomepismeno zahvaliti. Godine 1748. bio jeizabran za dopisnog člana Kraljevskeakademije u Parizu. Bošković je kaoisusovac u Engleskoj 1761. primljenu Royal Society, a tada nastaje i njegovpoznati portret. Nemirnog duhacijeloga života bio je u pokretu: putujepreko Carigrada pišući svoj opisTroje, nastavlja put preko Poljske,Šleske i Austrije te se vraća u Italiju.Godine 1764. povjeren mu je osnutakzvjezdarnice u Breri u Milanu, aiz Milana 1774. prelazi u Francusku,gdje prihvaća mjesto upravitelja optikeza mornaricu u Parizu. U Francuskoj jestekao i francusko državljanstvo, a kretaose među kremom tadašnje francuske znanstveneelite. Bošković se u smiraj svogaživota vraća u Italiju. Umire u Milanu, nevrativši se u rodni Dubrovnik. NajvažnijiBoškovićev prinos znanosti upravo jena polju shvaćanja strukture tvari, kojaje sustavno izložena u djelu Philosophiaenaturalis theoria (1758.). Boškovićeva di-Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 13

Dubrovnik Celebritiesnamičko-atomička teorija otvorila je novevidike u znanosti i odrazila se u mnogimradovima znanstvenika, koji su poput M.Faradaya koji je, temeljeći se na Boškovićevuradu, došao do pojma polja sila, a svedo naših dana Boškovićev znanstveni genijostao je prihvaćen i na polju suvremeneatomske fizike. Josip Ruđer Bošković iznimnaje pojavnost XVIII. stoljeća. Teškoje oslikati životni put ovog zanesenjaka uznanost, putnika i lutalice trajno vezanogsa svojom rodnom grudom. Kretao se poeuropskim dvorovima, pa je na prijelomu1759./1760. kao izaslanik DubrovačkeRepublike boravio u Versaillesu u službenojdiplomatskoj misiji. Zahvaljujućipoznanstvu s kraljem Stanislawom Leszczycskim,Bošković je došao na dvor.U francuskoj kraljevskoj rezidenciji on jebio čest gost kraljice Marije Leszczycske,supruge Luja XV., kćeri kralja Stanislawa,te i prijestolonasljednika. Svoja političkapoznanstva u Poljskoj iskoristio je tijekomrusko-turskog rata godine 1771. kad seDubrovačka Republika našla u smrtnojopasnosti. Budući da je Dubrovnik priznavaovrhovnu vlast Turske i plaćao jojgodišnji harač, Rusija je Republiku sv.Vlaha proglasila svojim neprijateljem.Zbog toga je admiral Orlov, zapovjednikruske flote na Jadranu, započeo spresretanjem dubrovačkih brodova izaprijetio bombardiranjem Dubrovnika.Smirivanja sukoba s Rusima diplomatskimputem, prihvatio se po nalogu SenataDubrovačke Republike upravo JosipRuđer Bošković koji je odlučio iskoristitipoznanstva što ih je sklopio tijekom boravkau Poljskoj. Dubrovčanin Boškovićje računao na pomoć Stanisława AugustaPoniatowskog, negdašnjeg miljenika cariceKatarine II., i nije se prevario. Boškovićje već u jesen 1771. uputio poljskomkralju pismo u kojemu je vladaru objasniotešku situaciju u kojoj se našla DubrovačkaRepublika i istodobno je zamolio kraljada intervenira na ruskome dvoru. Nije serazočarao, poljski su diplomati interveniraliu Petersburgu i pripomogli instalacijidubrovačkog izaslanika Frana Ranjine nacarskom dvoru.Ovo je samo jedna od diplomatskihzadaća koje je uspješno okončaona radost svoje domovine. Josip RuđerBošković veliko je ime hrvatske i svjetskeznanosti i kulture. Svojim životom rodniDubrovnik i hrvatski narod povezao je smnogim kulturama i narodima.Josip RuđThe physicist, mathematician,astronomer, geodesist, engineer,poet, philosopher and diplomatJosip Ruđer Bošković (Dubrovnik, 18May 1711 - Milan, 13 February 1787)was an outstanding personality, who leftan inerasable trace both in the Croatianand the world science. He was descendedfrom a family of merchants, which gaveseveral remarkable personalities in theCroatian culture. Like his sister, the poetessAnica Bošković, and his brothersthe poets Baro, Ivan Dominik and Petar,Ruđer Bošković felt an early craving forknowledge, which resulted in an adventurethat lasted his entire life. He beganhis studies in Dubrovnik and continuedthem in Rome. Having graduated fromthe Collegium Romanum and upon assuminga respectable professorship, hecame into prominence by publishingseveral Newtonian treatises as early as in1736. The young Ruđer did not return toDubrovnik, but remained in Italy wherethe prospects for his advancement weregreater. Together with Count FrancescoGarampi, the astronomer, he observedthe passage of Mercury in front of theSun, and got acquainted with astronomicinstruments and methods. A remarkablyversatile person, Bošković continued towork in the fields of mathematic, astronomyand literature. In 1742 he wasentrusted with the important task ofsolving the problem of the crack whichhad appeared on St Peter’s cupola inRome. At the same time, he was engagedin the restoration of the ports of Riminiand Savona, and in the solving of waterdrainage dispute between the Republic ofLucca and the Grand Duchy of Tuscany.All of his life Ruđer Bošković remainedconnected with his homeland, the DubrovnikRepublic - for which he oftenperformed delicate diplomatic missions- and with his family, exchanging tenderletters in the Croatian language with hismother and sister. In Italy he was a memberof many academies, including thatof Bologna and of the Roman Arcadia- where he recommended Voltaire, wholater thanked Bošković in writing – andin 1748 he was appointed a corresponding14 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

Napisao/By Vinicije B. Lupiser BoškovićA visionary, scientist, traveller, diplomat…member of the Paris Royal Academy. As amember of the Society of Jesus, Boškovićwas admitted to the English Royal Societyin 1976, when his well-known portraitwas made. A restless spirit, he spent hisentire life on the move. He travelled fromConstantinople - where he wrote his descriptionof Troy - via Poland, Silesia andAustria, in order to return to Italy. In1764 he was entrusted with the startingof an astronomical observatory in Brera,Milan, from where he moved to Francein 1774, where was appointed the navyoptics director in Paris. He acquired theFrench citizenship and moved in the mostprestigious scientific circles of France. Inhis late years Bošković returned to Italyand died in Milan, never returning to hisnative Dubrovnik.Bošković’s greatest contribution to scienceis particularly in the field of understandingthe structure of things, which is systematicallyelaborated in his work entitledPhilosophiae naturalis theoria (1758). Hisdynamic-atomic theory offered new insightsin science and influenced the worksof numerous scientists, including M.Faraday who came to the idea of the forcefield on the basis of Bošković’s work. Inthe field of modern atomic physics thescientific brilliance of Ruđer Bošković hascontinued to be recognised up to this day.Josip Ruđer Bošković is an outstanding18th century phenomenon. It is difficultto depict the life of this scientificenthusiast, traveller and wanderer, whowas nevertheless permanently connectedwith his homeland. Having had accessto European courts, Bošković was aDubrovnik Republic envoy in Versailleson an official diplomatic mission in1759/1760. He came to the court owingto his acquaintance with King StanislawLeszczycski. He frequently visitedthe French royal residence as a guest ofMaria Leszczycska - the wife of Louis XVand daughter of King Stanislaw - andalso of the heir to the throne. He usedhis politic connections in Poland duringthe Russian-Turkish war of 1771, whenthe Dubrovnik Republic was in mortaldanger. Taking into consideration the factthat Dubrovnik recognized the supremeauthority of Turkey paying an annualpool tax, Russia proclaimed the Republicof St Blaise its enemy. Thus, Admiral Or-lov, the Russian Adriatic fleet commander,began to intercept the Dubrovnik shipsand threatened to shell the City. By orderof the Dubrovnik Republic Senate, JosipRuđer Bošković undertook the task ofcalming down the conflict with the Russiansin a diplomatic way, intending to usethe acquaintances he had made during hissojourn in Poland. He counted on the helpof Stanisław August Poniatowski, the onetime favourite of Queen Catherine II, andhis expectations were fulfilled. Alreadyin the autumn of 1771 Bošković wrote aletter to the King of Poland, explainingthe Dubrovnik Republic’s difficult situationand asking the king to intervene atthe Russian court. The Polish diplomatsindeed intervened in St Petersburg andhelped the appointment of the Dubrovnikenvoy Frano Ranjina at the royal court.This is only one of the diplomatic missionswhich Bošković completed successfully tothe joy of his homeland. A leading scientificand cultural spirit of Croatia and theworld, Josip Ruđer Bošković connectedboth his native Dubrovnik and the peopleof Croatia with many other cultures andnations.Win t e r 2010/11Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 15

ObljetnicaNapisao Božo Lasić1oogodinadubrovačkogatramvajaKada je nastajao dubrovačkitramvaj, Dubrovnik je – tadau sastavu Austro--Ugarske – imao oko 12 tisuća stanovnika.Nakon pada Republike i ulaska Napoleonovihpostrojbi u Grad, Dubrovnikstagnira na svekolikom gospodarskompolju, međutim, Austro-Ugarska ćegradnjom uskotračne željezničke prugeBrod – Bosanski Brod – Doboj – Sarajevo– Dubrovnik – Zelenika dati novpoticaj za gospodarski razvitak ovogdijela Dalmacije. Upravo će gradnja tepruge ubrzati ostvarenje ideje o prometnompovezivanju Gruža i Pila jer sve dopojave tramvaja ta su dva dijela Gradabila prepuštena nesigurnom prijevozu uzpomoć kočija, a nešto kasnije i omnibusakojega su vukli konji.U vrijeme uvođenja tramvaja Gruž jebio dubrovačka periferija, ali istodobno iluka koja je bila izvorište svih putovanja.Gruž je isto tako u tadašnjem Dubrovnikubio svojevrsna industrijska zona, alii predio za njegovo moguće širenje. Kadse sve rečeno uzelo u obzir, tada je bilorazumljivo, logično, pa i gospodarskiisplativo povezati ta dva gradska dijela.Puštanjem u pogon elektrane, točnijetermoelektrane u Dubrovniku 1. lipnja1901. stvorene su i prve pretpostavke zafunkcioniranje tramvaja. Presudan trenutakzbio se 1905 kad je osnovan Odborza gradnju električnoga tramvaja,na čijem je čelu bio Luko Bona, jedna odnajzaslužnijih osoba koje su pridonijeleostvarenju projekta uvođenja tramvaja uDubrovniku. Ostali članovi Odbora bilisu: Ivo Papi, dr. Miho Papi, dr. ArturSaraka, Mato Šarić, dr. Antun Pugliesi,dr. Mato Gracić, dr. Ivo Degiulli, ErnestKatić i Antun Milić. Novi Osnivački od-Win t e r 2010/11bor d.d. utemeljen je 1908., a priključilisu mu se svi predstavnici kapitala.Gradnja dubrovačkoga tramvaja postignućeje iznimne gospodarske sloge,domoljublja i požrtvovnosti koji su u današnjevrijeme gotovo neshvatljivi. Realizacijatakva projekta trebala je pokazatiBeču kako je nekoć slavan i gospodarskimoćan Grad još pun potencijala da samostalnoostvari, za to vrijeme, uistinutehnički zahtjevan gospodarski projekt.O tomu svjedoči i brzina postavljanjatračnica – kolosijek je postavljen u samo48 radnih dana. Izvedba električnogtramvaja pripala je tvrtki Fr. Križik izPraga. Prvih pet dubrovačkih tramvaja,njihov kolni ormar i kolni slog kupljenisu u tvornici Grazer Wagonen und Maschinenfabrik.Dubrovački tramvaj imaoje 1910. pet motornih kola s brojevima1, 2, 3, 4 i 5 te tri zatvorene prikolice,također kupljene u spomenutoj tvrtki uGrazu, a imale su registracijske brojeve21, 22 i 23. Dubrovački električni tramvajpušten je u pogon 22. prosinca 1910.te je prometovao sve do 1970. godine.Sedmog ožujka 1970. oko 9 sati dogodilase teška prometna nesreća na Pilamakada su tramvajska kola br. 5, koja suvozila na relaciji Pile – Lapad, iskočilaiz tračnica i survala se u gradski park naPilama. Jedna je osoba poginula, a višenjih bilo je ranjeno. Ubrzo potom, točnije20. ožujka 1970. u 12 sati, na svimrelacijama ukinut je promet dubrovačkogtramvaja. Dan kada je dubrovačkitramvaj imao svoju posljednju vožnjumnogim će Dubrovčanima ostati u trajnomsjećanju. Nekoliko tisuća Dubrovčanadošlo je na tu posljednju vožnjutramvajem te tako pokazalo emotivnuvezu s tim prometalom koja i danas trajeistim intenzitetom. U svakom slučaju,dubrovački tramvaj dio je kulturno--tehničke baštine cijele Hrvatske te jeujedno i jedini tramvaj koji je vozio uDalmaciji. Danas je dubrovački tramvaj,zajedno s prikolicom, izložen u Tehničkommuzeju u Zagrebu.Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 17

ANNIVERSARYBy Božo LasićWhen the Dubrovniktramwas cominginto existence, the City– a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire atthe time – had about 12thousand inhabitants.After the abolition ofthe Dubrovnik Republicand the arrival of Napoleon’stroupes in theCity, Dubrovnik faced anoverall economic decline.However, by constructingthe Brod – BosanskiBrod – Doboj – Sarajevo– Dubrovnik – Zelenikanarrow-gauge railway,the Austro-Hungarian Empire gavea new impetus to the development ofthis part of Dalmatia. The railway’sconstruction speeded up the realisationof the idea about traffic connectionbetween Gruž and Pile, because beforethe appearance of the tram these twocity districts depended on the unreliablecoach transport and later on horsedriven omnibuses.At that time Gruž was a periphery ofDubrovnik and a port of departure. Itwas also a kind of industrial zone andthe area where the City could possiblyexpand. In view of these facts, it wasunderstandable, logical and economicallyprofitable to connect these twocity areas. The first prerequisites for thefunctioning of the tram were createdby putting the Dubrovnik power plant- or thermo-electric power plant, to bemore precise - into operation on 1 June1901. After that, in 1905, the ElectricTram Committee was founded, headedby Luko Bona, one of the people mostresponsible for the realisation of the Dubrovniktram project. Other committeemembers included: Ivo Papi, Dr. MihoPapi, Dr. Artur Saraka, Mato Šarić, Dr.Antun Pugliesi, Dr. Mato Gracić, Dr.Ivo Degiulli, Ernest Katić and AntunMilić. The New Founding CommitteeLtd. was founded in 1908, and it alsoincluded representatives of all financers.The Dubrovnik tram was the result ofan outstanding economic concord, patriotismand dedication which are almostincomprehensible nowadays. The projectrealisation was supposed to show Viennathat once glorious and economicallyYears ofDubrovnikTrampowerful City still possessed the potentialto carry out such technology-wiseextremely demanding project. Testimonyto that was the speed at which therails were laid – the gauge was laid in 48work days only. The electric tram constructionwas entrusted to the Fr. KrižikCo. of Prague. The first five Dubrovniktrams were purchased from the GrazerWagonen und Maschinenfabrik. In 1910the Dubrovnik tram had five motorunits with the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4 and5 and three closed cars, also purchasedfrom the afore mentioned company inGraz, while their registration numberswere 21, 22 and 23. The Dubrovnikelectric tram was putinto operation on22 December 1910,and it operated until1970.On 7 March 1970there was a majortraffic accident at Pile.The car No. 5, whichoperated betweenPile and Lapad, leftthe rails and crashedinto the Pile publicgarden. One personwas killed and several1ooinjured. Soon after that, on 20 March1970, at 12 noon, the Dubrovnik tramstopped operating. The day when theDubrovnik tram made its last driveremained imprinted in the memory ofDubrovnik residents. Several thousandsof them came to that last drive showingtheir emotional attachment for the tramwhich has survived until this day. TheDubrovnik tram is by all means a partof the cultural and technical heritage ofentire Croatia, being at the same timethe only one that operated in Dalmatia.The Dubrovnik tram is now exhibited atthe Zagreb Museum of Technology.18 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

U UNESCO-voj OBITELJIIN UNESCO FAMILYFestasvetoga Vlaha,zaštitnika DubrovnikaDubrovnik ima, uz sve svoje posebnosti,i onu najveću – tradicijuslavljenja sv. Vlaha, zaštitnika Grada,svoga Parca.Festa sv. Vlaha najkorjenitija je i najdražadubrovačka svečanost, ponos kroz povijest,a sve u slavu zaštitnika sv. Vlaha:liječnika, biskupa i mučenika iz armenskeSebaste, koji se štuje po cijeloj Europi isvijetu, ali nigdje tako snažno i zdušno, stoliko vjere i poštovanja kao u Dubrovniku,koji ga je po legendi 972. g. uzeoza svoga zaštitnika, a po dokumentimanjegovo je štovanje zasvjedočeno od1190. godine.Dubrovnik i sv. Vlaho nerazdvojni supojmovi, gotovo istoznačnice. Snaga isimbolika nebeskoga zaštitnika utemeljilaje i razvijala kulturni prostor Dubrovnikai njegova područja, oblikujući lokalni inacionalni kulturni pejzaž svestranimpojavnostima, povezujući materijalnu inematerijalnu kulturnu baštinu prožimljućomduhovnom dimenzijom.Stoga je osobito radosno i svečano odzvonilavijest iz Abu Dhabija 30. rujna2009.g.o upisu Feste svetoga Vlaha naReprezentativnu UNESCO-vu Listunematerijalne kulturne baštine čovječanstva,kao prinos hrvatske, dubrovačkeposebnosti jedinstvu svjetskih civilizacijskihi kulturoloških različitosti.Dubrovnik je tako po drugi put, nakonupisa spomeničke cjeline Grada iz 1979.g., ušao u UNESCO-v registar i po Festisvetoga Vlaha, na što su Dubrovčaniposebno ponosni. Sv. Vlaho srastao je sovim Gradom i njegovim pukom, a središnjaFesta s veličanstvenom procesijom3. veljače, u kojoj se nose svečeve moći,uz sudjelovanje puka, klera, hodočasnikai gostiju, što se slavi više od milenija, sržje dubrovačke duše i identiteta, slobodei mira.Ponosna sam i sretna jer sam dala prinosupisu naše Feste najprije na hrvatskipopis nematerijalnih kulturnih dobara, azatim kreirajući obrazloženje i prikupljajućidokumentaciju u ime i na prijedlogKonzervatorskog odjela u Dubrovniku,sudjelovala u dugogodišnjoj zahtjevnojproceduri ispunjavanja UNESCO-vihkriterija, koji su prethodili odluci o upisu.Upis na UNESCO-vu Listu obavljen jeuz najveću moguću suradnju i sudjelovanjesvih sudionika dubrovačke lokalnezajednice (posebno rektora Crkve sv.Vlaha don Tome Lučića), kako crkovnetako i svjetovne vlasti - a ima zadaćupodizati svijest o nematerijalnoj baštiniugroženoj globalizacijskim procesima, nadaljepoticati dijalog kao odraz kulturneraznolikosti diljem svijeta i svjedočanstvoo ljudskoj kreativnosti.No, bez vjere, katoličke tradicije, bliskepovezanosti dubrovačkoga puka i milogzaštitnika, sv. Vlaha, bez ljubavi za svogParca, ne bi se mogla održati vjekovnatradicija, posebno kultura nasljeđivanja,po kojoj je Festa sv. Vlaha postala Festaza cijeli svijet!I na kraju ono ponosno, dubrovačko,tradicionalno: Živio sveti Vlaho!The greatest among Dubrovnikparticularities is the traditionof honouring St Blaise, theCity’s patron saint.The Festival of St Blaise is Dubrovnik’soldest and most favourite festivity, honouringSt Blaise, the bishop and martyrfrom the Armenian city of Sebasta. He iscelebrated all over Europe, but nowhereso ardently, wholeheartedly, and with somuch faith and respect as in Dubrovnik.Legend has it that Dubrovnik recognizedSt Blaise as its patron in 972, andrecords show that he has been honouredsince 1190.20 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

The Festival ofNapisala/By Maja NodariSaint Blaise,the patron of DubrovnikAlmost synonyms, Dubrovnik and StBlaise are inseparable. The power andsymbolism of its heavenly protectorestablished and developed the culturalarea of Dubrovnik and its surroundings,using universal phenomena to giveform to both local and national culturallandscape, and connecting material andnonmaterial cultural heritage by permitingspiritual dimension. That is thereason why the news from Abu Dhabiof 30 September 2009 on the Festivalof St Blaise joining the representativeUNESCO Non-material CulturalHeritage List were received with outstandingenthusiasm, being Croatia’sand Dubrovnik’s contribution in theworld’s civilisational and culturologicaldiversity. The people of Dubrovniktake special pride in the fact that, afterjoining UNESCO World Heritage Sitesin 1979, Dubrovnik was for the secondtime included in UNESCO List owingto its Festival of St Blaise. St Blaise isinseparably connected with the Cityand its residents. The central Festivalevent with a magnificent processiontaking place on 3 February - when theholy relics of St Blaise are carried in thepresence of clergy, pilgrims, dwellersand guests of the City - which has beencelebrated for more than a millennium,is the essence of Dubrovnik’s spirit,identity, freedom and peace.I am proud and happy for my contributionin including our Festival at firstin the Croatian Non-material CulturalHeritage List, and later in participatingin the long-time demanding procedureof meeting the UNESCO criteriapreceding the inclusion by conceptualizingthe explanation and collecting thedocuments on behalf of and at the suggestionof the Dubrovnik Art ConservationDepartment. The purpose of theinclusion - which was made possibleowing to full cooperation of allmembers of the Dubrovnik localcommunity (particularly FatherTomo Lučić, Rector of St Blaise’sChurch) including both churchand city authorities - is to raisethe non-material heritageawareness endangered by theglobalization process, and tofurther encourage dialogueas a reflection of culturaldiversity all over the worldand as a testimony to humancreativity.However, without faith, theCatholic tradition, the closeconnectedness between thepeople of Dubrovnik andtheir dearly loved protectorSt Blaise, and without lovefor their patron saint, thecenturies long traditioncould not have beenpreserved, particularlythe culture ofinheriting, whichrecognised theFestival of StBlaise as worldheritage!And in conclusion,followingthe Dubrovniktradition, let usexclaim proudly:Long live StBlaise!Win t e r 2010/11Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 21

ZAŠTO VOLIM DUBROVNIKObamin savjetnik na Pelješkom vinskom putuKada je američkom predsjednikuBaracku Obami javio da ćeprihvatiti odgovornu funkcijudirektora posrnule najveće svjetske osiguravajućekuće, American InternationalGroup, AIG-a, ali tek nakon berbeu njegovom pelješkom vinogradu, očisvjetske javnosti bile su okrenute premajugu Hrvatske gdje nekoliko mjesecigodišnje boravi Robert Benmosche. Dugogodišnjišef osiguravateljske kuće MetLife spremao se ostatak života provestiu mirovini koju je planirao provoditivećinom u svojoj prekrasnoj kući u Dubrovniku,kada ga je američki predsjednikBarack Obama zamolio za pomoć.Smatrao je da svoje iskustvo i znanjemora staviti na raspolaganje u tom gospodarskikriznom vremenu i prihvatio jeponovno biti radno aktivan. No, visokona listi njegovih životnih prioriteta ostalisu – pelješki vinogradi i Zinfandel, sortagrožđa koju je vratio doma, u Hrvatsku.Postao je ujedno najveći promotor Hrvatskekao zemlje vrhunskih vina. Jedanod financijski najutjecajnijih i najstručnijihljudi na svijetu, za svake je berbe usvojim vinogradima na Pelješcu gdje muposao vodi partnerica, pelješka vinarkaMarija Mrgudić.Dubrovnik ste prvi put posjetili1987. godine...-... kada sam doveo tristotinjak financijskihsavjetnika s Wall Streeta da proslaveuspješnu poslovnu godinu. Izlet je bioiznimno uspješan i ostavio je toplo mjestou mome srcu. Samome sebi tada samobećao da ću se jednoga dana vratiti.đem u mirovinu, dio svoga vremenaprovedem proizvodeći vino u Hrvatskoj,živeći u Dubrovniku. Desetakgodina kasnije, 2000-te, vratio samse u potragu za vinogradima želećiulagati u Hrvatsku i pomoći pokrenutitradiciju proizvodnje vinakako bi zemlja u tom segmentupostala svjetski poznata.Jeste li tada pokrenuli posao u Hrvatskoj?- Ne, nisam tada pronašao odgovarajućevinograde, ali sam dobiomogućnost kupiti prekrasnu vilu ublizini mora koja mi je postala domomiz kojega sam mogao krenuti unovi poslovni izazov. Kada sam 2006.pošao u mirovinu, zasadio sam svojprvi Zinfandel u vinogradu u Vignjuna Pelješcu, također i Plavac Mali uvinogradu u Dingaču, na tristotinjakmetara od mora. Prva berba Zinfandeladala je skoro 2 tisuće kilogramavisokokvalitetnog grožđa. Hrvatska jeveličanstvena destinacija za odmor, osobitodalmatinska obala. Trebamo svi zajednoraditi još više na tome da se gostiosjećaju dobrodošlima te da usluga kojuim pružamo bude jednako kvalitetnaljepoti zemlje i toplini ljudi u Hrvatskoj.Moramo raditi svi zajedno na tome daproizvodimo svjetska vina. Ovo zahtjevadugoročna ulaganja tako da mi zapravoradimo za buduću generaciju. Toga smosvjesni i ja i moja partnerica Mare Mrgudićčija obitelj proizvodi vrhunska vinageneracijama.I jeste. Odlučili ste kupiti kuću u Dubrovniku?Zašto?- Kasnih 90-tih saznao sam da sortagrožđa Zinfandel potječe iz Hrvatske.Tada mi je sinula ideja da Zinfandeljednog dana vratim doma i da, kada po-RobertBenmo22 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

WHY I LOVE DUBROVNIKNapisala/By Lidija CrnčevićObama’s Adviser on the Pelješac Wine RouteUživa li Vaša obitelj u Dubrovniku i pelješkimvinogradima kao i Vi?- Moja obitelj obožava dolaziti uDubrovnik i pokušavaju iznaći načinda ostanu ovdje što dulje. Ovoje prekrasno mjesto na kojemupostanete svjesni ljepote življenja.Kada Vas prijatelji pitaju čime Vas jeDubrovnik privukao, što kažete?- Mnogi me prijatelji pitaju – Zaštobaš Hrvatska? Odgovaram improtupitanjem jesu li ikada bili uHrvatskoj i preporukom da mi istopitanje postave nakon što ju posjete.Oni koji su poslušali moj savjet višenisu postavljali ovo pitanje jer su odgovorznali sami, moja opčinjenost Hrvatskompostala im je jasna. I njih je Hrvatskaosvojila svojom čistoćom, miromi nevjerojatnom ljepotom. Iako sam senakon tri godine mirovine morao vratitina posao, veseli me pomisao da ću zagodinu ili dvije moći opet provoditi petmjeseci godišnje u Dubrovniku i svakegodine proizvoditi kvalitetnije vino.Upon informing the Presidentof the United States, BarackObama, that he would acceptthe invitation to assume the role ofCEO of American International Group,the world’s major insurance corporationsuffering from a liquidity crisis, butonly after the grape harvesting in hisvineyard on the Pelješac Peninsula, theeyes of the world were on the south ofCroatia where Robert Benmosche livesseveral months a year. The longtimeCEO of Metropolitan Life InsuranceCompany was planning to spend hisretirement days in his beautiful house inDubrovnik, when the current AmericanPresident asked his help. Aware of thefact that his knowledge and experiencewere needed in time of crisis, RobertBenmosche agreed to return to activeservice. However, his Pelješac vineyardsand Zinfandel - the wine variety whichhe brought back to its Croatian home- remained highly positioned on hislist of life priorities. At the same timeBenmosche became the major promoterof Croatia as a country of top qualitywines. One of the world’s most influentialfinancial experts, he spends grapeharvesting time in his Pelješac vineyards,where his partner Marija Mrgudić, alocal wine producer, runs the businessfor him.- «I first came to Dubrovnik in 1987when I brought almost three hundredWall Street financial advisers to celebratetheir successful sales year. The tripwas a tremendous success and it left awarm place in my heart. I said then, oneday I hoped to return.»And you returned indeed, and decided tobuy a house in Dubrovnik? Why?- «In the late 1990s I learned that thegrape variety Zinfandel came fromCroatia. I then came to the idea tobring Zinfandel back to its home oneday, and, when I retire, to spend partof my time making Zinfandel wine inCroatia and living part of my retirementin Dubrovnik. Ten years later, in 2000I returned to look for vineyards and tobegin to invest in Croatia to help restorethe country’s heritage of being a worldleader in producing wonderful wines.»Did you start the business in Croatia then?- «I didn’t find vineyards at the time,but I did have the opportunity to investin a villa that could be a base of operationsfor my new business venture.When I retired in 2006, I started myfirst Zinfandel vineyard in Viganj on thePelješac Peninsula and also a small PlavacMali vineyard in Dingač 300 metresabove the sea. Both are doing great andour Zinfandel harvest had almost 2,000kilos of high quality grapes. Croatiais a great destination for vacationers,especially along the Dalmatian coast.What I hope we all do is a better job ofmaking people feel welcome and thatour service is as good as the beauty ofthe land and the people of Croatia. Wealso need to work together to produceworld class wines. This will require longterm investments so that we build forthe next generation. Some wine producersare already doing that, but we needso many more to join the effort. MareMrgudić and her family are leading thatimportant effort.»Does your family enjoy Dubrovnik and yourPelješac vineyards as much as you do?- « My family loves coming to visit eachyear and they keep wanting to find wayto stay longer. It is such a beautifulplace to stop and take time to appreciatelife.»What do you tell your friends when theyask: why Dubrovnik?- «Many friends ask why Dubrovnik.I then ask if they had ever been toCroatia, and they say no. I say then thatafter they visit, they can ask me again.But when they come to visit, they simplysay ‘got it’. It is just so clean, safe,peaceful and incredibly beautiful. WhileI have had to return to work after threeyears of retirement, I look forward in ayear or two to being able to again spendfive months a year living in Dubrovnikand making better wine every year.»scheWin t e r 2010/11Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 23

Dom atelje Jagode Buić WuttkeI Ionesco je uživaou KoloriniIako oko nastanka lokaliteta, kojije danas prepoznat kao uvalaKolorina, postoji mnogo legendi,prvi povijesni podatci kažu da suu tim kućicama u 11. stoljeću zapravoživjeli radnici koji su gradilitvrđavu Lovrjenac. Pretpostavljase da su oni iz neposredne blizinekućica vadili kamenje koje je pomoglou gradnji impozantne tvrđavena koju sa svih terasa kućica,puca nezaboravan pogled.Eksterijer i interijer ispunjavajukameni stolovi i klupe, pokoja pletenastolica te kreveti prekrivenibijelim pletenim prekrivačima.Na kamenoj klupi na terasi, izležavaose i Eugene Ionesco kojije svoj užitak izrazio riječima:“Ne mičem se odavde!”24 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

The studio home of Jagoda Buić WuttkeKad bi se u Dubrovniku tražiodom jedinstven po svompoložaju i doživljaju bliskepovezanosti s mediteranskom kulturomi prirodom, bio bi to nedvoumno dubrovačkidom svjetski poznate umjetniceJagode Buić Wuttke. Kompleks malihkamenih kućica zabijenih u stijenje s pogledomprema tvrđavi Lovrjenac i uvaliKolorina, jedinstvena je arhitektonskacjelina čija je vrijednost multipliciranaistančanim ukusom i umjetničkimdodirom vrsne umjetnice. Otkako jesredinom šezdesetih godina Jagoda Buiću nabacanim kućicama imala viziju jedinstvenogdubrovačkog doma, terase,šest u cjelinu povezanih kućica, postalesu primjer kako prostor sa što manjeintervencija zadržati izvornim i učinitiga udobnim.Kućice u bijelom odišu mediteranskomnostalgijom. Njihovu unutrašnjost,nakon što je iz njih danima izbacivanokamenje i otpad, vlasnica je uredila upotpunom bjelilu s naglaskom na prirodno.Najdojmljivija je okrugla prostorijas ognjištem na sredini koja je ostalau izvornom stanju u kakvom je i nađena.-Kuća nije samo fizički kuća, već je kućaWin t e r 2010/11i duhovno. Kad me pitaju do kada samu Dubrovniku, kažem da sam tu dok mene otplave kiše. Istina, lijepo mi je ovdjei zimi dok šetam praznim Stradunomokupanim mjesečinom. No, mjesto mojeinspiracije i glavno mjesto mog rada ješkrapa ispod Lovrjenca na koju ljeti legnem,upijam sunčeve zrake i sanjam...-kaže Jagoda Buić Wuttke.Kućice u Kolorini uređene su s punimrespektom prema starini i pejsažu, štoje konačno, i likovni kredo umjetnice.Upravo u jednoj od kućica koja jeumjetničin atelje, nastale su brojne skiceza scenografije, kostimografije i izložbediljem Europe i svijeta. Brojna likovnapublika imala je priliku u Muzeju zaumjetnost i obrt u Zagrebu pogledativeliku retrospektivnu izložbu JagodeBuić Wuttke koja će potrajati sve dokonca rujna zbog velikog interesa javnosti.Na njoj je bilo izloženo više od 200radova, među kojima i 26 reprezentativnihtapiserija većinom posuđenih izuglednih inozemnih ustanova kultureu Francuskoj- kao što su UNESCO uParizu, Muzej likovnih umjetnosti uBordeauxu i FNAC (Centar za suvremenuumjetnost i skulpturu) u Parizute iz Moderne galerije u Zagrebu i Galerijeumjetnina Split. Uostalom, radoviumjetnice svjetskog renomea JagodeBuić Wutke zastupljeni su u gotovosvim velikim svjetskim muzejima suvremeneumjetnosti.Poznata tapiseristica, od gimnazijskihdana “zaražena” kazalištem, napravilaje oko 150 scenografija i kostimografija,a poslije se bavila i režijom. Zanimljivstvaralački život danas provodi na relacijiPariz – Rim – Dubrovnik - Provansa.Dok iz svog provansalskog doma, kojije pripadao ispovjedniku Merquisea deSadea, s prozora vidi De Sadeov srušenidvorac kojeg je obnovio Pierre Cardin, uDubrovniku iz Kolorine gleda na tvrđavuLovrjenac, najistureniju dubrovačkuutvrdu.Napisala/By Paulina Peko- Dubrovnik bi zimi trebao biti jednakoatraktivan kao i ljeti. Ta njegova zimskapublika mogla bi biti kvalitetnija iumjetnički senzibilnija. Dubrovnik bidakle zimi trebao nastaviti biti centarkulture u kojem bi se uživalo više negoljeti gužvajući se u nepreglednoj masiljudi. Neprihvatljivo mi je opravdanje zasve “nema novaca” jer se mnoge stvari,uz entuzijazam i ljubav za Grad, mogunapraviti i bez ili s vrlo malo novca -kaže Jagoda Buić Wuttke.Ionesco isamong thosewho enjoyedKolorinaIf one looked for a home in Dubrovnikunique for its position andthe feeling of close connectednesswith Mediterranean culture and nature,it would undoubtedly be the Dubrovnikhome of the world famous artist JagodaBuić Wuttke. The complex of smallstone houses on the cliffs overlookingFort Lovrjenac and Kolorina Cove is aunique architectural unit, whose valueis enhanced by the refined taste andartistic touch of this outstanding artist.Ever since she envisioned her uniqueDubrovnik home with terraces and sixinterconnected small houses in the mid1960s, it became an example of how onecan retain the original form of a spaceand make it comfortable with as fewinterventions as possible.Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 25

The studio home of Jagoda Buić WuttkeNapisala/By Paulina PekoIn spite of many legends of theorigin of the locality known todayas Kolorina Cove, the firsthistoric records show that in the11th century the little houseswere actually inhabited by thebuilders of Fort Lovrjenac. It issupposed that they used thestones found in close proximityto the houses for the constructionof this imposing fort.Their exterior and interior consistof stone tables and benches,wicker chairs and beds coveredwith white knitted bedspreads.One of those who lolled abouton the terrace stone bench, EugeneIonesco expressed his enjoymentin the following words:„Wild horses wouldn’t drag meaway from here!“The white little houses give out theMediterranean nostalgia. Having spentmany days throwing stones and wastematerials out of them, Jagoda BuićWuttke decided to paint the entire interiorwhite. The most impressive roomis the one with a fireplace in its centre,which remained in its original state.- A house is not only a house in thephysical, but also in the spiritual sense.When asked how long I would stay inDubrovnik, I reply: till the rains washme away. To tell the truth, here I feelfine in winter too, while promenadingalong the empty moonlit Stradun. However,the place of my inspiration and mymain working place is a small plateau atthe foot of Lovrjenac, where I lie downin the summer, absorb the rays of thesun and dream… - says Jagoda BuićWuttke.The artist decorated the small houses inKolorina fully respecting the antiquityand landscape, which is, after all, herartistic credo. In the little house she usesas a studio she made a large number ofsketches for set designs, costumes andexhibitions put up all over the world.Numerous visitors have had the opportunityto see the great retrospectiveexhibition of Jagoda Buić Wuttke,which will remain open until the endof September because of a huge publicinterest. The exhibition presented morethan 200 works, including 26 representativetapestries mainly borrowedfrom the prestigious cultural institutionsof France such as UNESCO in Paris,the Visual Arts Museum of Bordeauxand FNAC (Modern Art and SculptureCentre) in Paris, as well as from theZagreb Gallery of Modern Art and theSplit Art Gallery. After all, the works ofthis world famous artist are exhibited inalmost all major modern art museums inthe world.Infatuated with theatre ever since hergrammar school days, Jagoda BuićWuttke has made some 150 set andcostume designs, and has also beenengaged as a theatre director. She nowspends her intriguing creative life betweenParis, Rome, Dubrovnik andProvence. Her Provence home - whichbelonged to Marquise de Sade’s confessor- overlooks De Sade’s demolishedcastle, now restored by Pierre Cardin,while her Kolorina home in Dubrovnikoverlooks Fort Lovrjenac, the City’smost prominent fortification.- Dubrovnik in winter should be as attractiveas Dubrovnik in summer. Itswinter audience could include moresophisticated and artistically more perceptivevisitors. Dubrovnik in wintershould thus continue to be a culturalcentre in which the visitors enjoy muchmore than in summer pushing throughhuge crowds of people. The explanation„there is no money“ is unacceptable, because,with enthusiasm and love for theCity, many things can be done with noor with small sums of money – claimsJagoda Buić Wuttke.26 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

Napisala/By Maja NodariPlaca /SSaloča od Gradaje više negoulica i više nego„Stradunglavna ulica, on jesvijet, zasebni zaokruženisvijet. Čitav.“, zapisao je najvećidubrovački lirik Luko Paljetak. I pogodio.Pa je Stradun još počastio i antologijskimsvojim stihovima:„Ulica to nam nije nego je to Očenašživota svagdanjega, saloča naša,salaod Versaja, đe ide vazda se, đe se balaonako kako svira, i kako sam ordenaš;“A Stradun je izvornim imenom Placa,kako ga malo tko i u Dubrovniku danaszove.U tom svijetu dugačkom oko 300 metara,osnovne geometrije izduljenog,nepravilnog pravokutnika, dimenzioniranogu skladu s okolnim građevinamaprije Velike trešnje izrazito reprezentativnogizgleda i sadržaja, zvanog PlatheaMagna, život će teći i svakodnevnotrajati, pa i nakon što mu se obličje izmijeni.Kada je kataklizmički potres, 6.travnja 1667., koji je i samo postojanjeGrada doveo u pitanje, pokopavši mugotovo polovicu stanovnika – preobraziolice Place obujmivši je s obje straneredom naizgled istih kuća - bilo je toiz nužde, koja je rodila skladom. Vojniinženjer Giulio Cerruti iz Rima, poslanu Dubrovnik zalaganjem rodoljubnogoca domovine, Dubrovčanina, u Vatikanuutjecajnog opata Stjepana Gradića,obnovio je dubrovačku glavnu arterijučistoćom i jednostavnošću urbanističkezamisli, potpuno uvažavajući zadanuformu Grada i organizaciju prostora,na staroj matrici iz 13. stoljeća. Ugođajasimetrične simetričnosti, po stanovitojdinamici svojstvenoj baroknim pravilima,progovorio je unificiranim jezikom,zrelo i osmišljeno, uspostavljajući naPlaci estetiku reda jednostavnih mogućnosti.Tu civiliziranu odmjerenost očito nimalodobro nije razumio, stoljeće kasnije, neskloni zavidni Mlečanin, uzviknuvši nasjajno(j) popločanoj Placi:“Che strada,che stradone!“ U prijevodu bi taj pejorativniaugmentativ glasio: uličetina. Togase pogrdnog naziva malo tko sjeća kadakroči na dubrovački Stradun.Lijep je u sve sate dana i noći. Pun čeljadii prazan. Ritmiziran svojim vratimana koljeno. Skladan i odmjeren kao iGrad, čiji je izlog i ures.Sve se gradske ulice u njega slijevaju, svamu se kućna pročelja okreću, svi zvoniciGrada njemu zvone, gradske fontane nanjegovim krajevima vodom žubore.28 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

tradunThe City’s Anteroomore than a street and more“Mthan a main street, Stradunis a world of its own. A complete one.”,wrote Luko Paljetak, Dubrovnik’s greatestlyric poet. The description was accurateindeed, and so were his anthologicalverses:“’Tis not just a street but a paternosterof our daily life, our anteroom, a hall ofVersailles,a place where you can walk and danceto the tune, and to your own will.”Win t e r 2010/11The original name of Stradun is Placa,although few people in Dubrovnikcall it by that name nowadays. In that300 metre long world in the shapeof an elongated irregular rectangle,called Plathea Magna - the dimensionsof which are in accordance withthe representative surrounding buildingsconstructed before the GreatEarthquake – life went on, regardlessof the architectural changes. After thecataclysmic earthquake of 6 April 1667– which jeopardised the very existenceof the City destroying almost half of itspopulation – had changed the appearanceof Placa, two rows of seeminglyalike buildings were constructed alongits sides. Although done out of necessity,this resulted in harmony. Thanks to theinterceding of Abbot Stjepan Gradić,the native of Dubrovnik and Fatherof the Country who was very influentialin Vatican, the military architectfrom Rome Giulio Cerruti was sent toDubrovnik. Fully respecting the city’sspecific form and space, he restored themain street of Dubrovnik according toa clear and simple design based on theold 13th century city plan. Followinga dynamics characteristic of baroquerules, the atmosphere of asymmetricsymmetry spoke in a uniform language,maturely and meaningfully, establishingthe aesthetics of simple possibilities inPlaca. One century later, an antagonisticand envious visitor from Venice obviouslyfailed to understand this civilisedsense of proportion. Having seen theshiny paved Placa, he exclamed: “Chestrada, che stradone“! An approximatetranslation of this pejorative augmentativeis: a large street. However, fewpeople nowadays remember this abusivename while walking along Stradun.Crowded and empty, in the rhythm ofits knee-shaped doors, Stradun is wellproportionedand neat, like the Cityadorned with it. All the city streets leadto it, all fronts of the buildings face itand all bells of the City ring for it, whilethe water gurgles in the fountains standingat its beginning and at its end.Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 29

Poznati i slavni u GraduI slavni Morgan Freemanprošetao GradomMorgan FreemanJohn Mc Enroe.Goran IvaniševićOscarovac Morgan Freeman,proslavljen ulogom u filmuDjevojka od milijun dolara,za kojega je i nagrađen zlatnim filmskimkipićem, ali i brojnim drugimpoput onih u „Vozeći gospođicu Daisy“,„Sedam“, „Duboki udar“ itd., ovoga jeljeta na atraktivnom „Dubrovnik FilmMeetingu“ nazočio projekciji svog filmaInvictus o Nelsonu Mandeli. Freemanse dubrovačkoj publici predstavio nanešto intimnijoj projekciji pod otvorenimnebom na terasi Hotela DubrovnikPalace, ali i na crvenom tepihu koji jete večeri neodoljivo podsjetio na glamurHollywooda. Na crvenom tepihuDubrovnika bila je ovog ljeta i Caprice,slavni američki top-model, trenutnojedna od najuspješnijih poslovnih ženasvijeta i nekoć najfotografiranija osobau Velikoj Britaniji. Tijekom devedesetihpojavila se na naslovnicama više od 300najutjecajnijih svjetskih časopisa poputJiri MenzelVougea, Maxima, GQ,Peoplea, Cosmopolitanate mnogih drugih.Sir Roger Moore priznaoje da mu je mjesec rujanpostao nezamisliv bezDubrovnika u kojemuveć godinama sudjelujena Festivalu komorne glazbe kojegaje pokrenuo njegov prijatelj, violinistJulian Rachlin. Dubrovnik je u rujnuobvezna stanica za užitak i slavnomJohnu Malkovichu koji je također jedanod zaljubljenika u glazbenu čaroliju kojanastaje na festivalu Julian rachlin & friends.A kada se o Festivalu tako izjasnedvije glumačke veličine poput njih, netreba čuditi vijest o tome da je britanskiGuardian proglasio Dubrovnik jednomod naj-destinacija za odmor u rujnu ilistopadu.Libertas film festival doveo nam je ovogljeta američku glumicu Gabourey Sidibe,glavnu zvijezdu filma Precious kojaje u pet filmskih dana boravka uživala uDubrovniku, Hrvatskoj, te pružila Dubrovnikupublicitet svjetskih razmjeragovoreći o ljepotama Grada i mentalitetuljudi u Jay Leno talk Show-u. Sličnoosjeća i dugogogodišnji prijatelj Grada,češki oskarovac Jiri Menzel koji je svojprvi dokumentarac snimio baš o Dubrovniku,a ove godine je dobio nagraduLibertas film festivala za životno djelo.U zanimljivom teniskom meču održanomispred Kneževa dvora susreli su sehrvatski slavni tenisač Goran Ivanišević iJohna Mc Enroe. Među slavnima koji suposjetili Dubrovnik na romantičnom putovanjubili su ovoga ljeta i „kućanica“Eva Langoria i njen suprug Tony Parkerkoji su Dubrovčane oduševili svojomjednostavnošću. Sa svojim društvom šetalisu Gradom bez ikakvog osiguranja,a fotografije s njihovog boravka u Hrvatskojvidjeli su brojni fanovi u cijelomesvijetu preko njezinog Facebooka.Brojne zvijezde, koje su gostovale uDubrovniku ovoga ljeta, potvrdile sukonstataciju iz britanskog mjesečnikaza putovanja i lifestyle Conde nast Travellerada je Dubrovnik šik destinacija.Conde Nast Travellera donosi na petstrana atraktivnu reportažu o Dubrovniku“Hrvatsko blago: Posjetite prekrasangrad na moru Dubrovnik” eminentnogbritanskog novinara Jonathana Bastablea,koji je u rujnu prošle godine boraviou Dubrovniku.30 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

The well-known and famous in DubrovnikEva Langoria & Tony ParkerNapisala/By Lidija CrnčevićGabourey SidibeSir Roger MooreCapriceThe famous MorganFreeman walked throughthe City tooThis summer, Morgan Freemanwho became famous for hisrole in the film Million DollarBaby for which he was awarded Oscar,and who also starred in many otherfilms such as Driving Miss Daisy, Sevenand Deep Impact, attended the projectionof his film about Nelson MandelaInvictus at the attractive DubrovnikFilm Meeting. He presented himself tothe Dubrovnik audience at a bit moreintimate open-air projection on the DubrovnikPalace Hotel terrace, as well ason the red carpet which was very muchreminiscent of the Hollywood glamourthat night. This summer we also saw thefamous American top-model Caprice onthe Dubrovnik red carpet, Great Britain’sone time most often photographedperson and one of the present-day mostWin t e r 2010/11John Malkovichsuccessful business women in the world.Sir Roger Moore admitted that he couldno longer imagine September withoutDubrovnik, where he for many yearshad taken part in the chamber musicfestival started by his friend, the violinistJulian Rachlin. Dubrovnik in Septemberis an indispensable place of enjoymentalso for the famous John Malkovich,who is one of the lovers of the magiccreated at the Julian Rachlin & FriendsChamber Music Festival. This summerthe Libertas Film Festival invited theAmerican actress Gabourey Sidibe, theprotagonist of the film Precious, who enjoyedDubrovnik during the five festivaldays. The longtime friend of the City,the Czech Oscar-winning director JiriMenzel, whose first documentary filmfeatured Dubrovnik, received a LifetimeAchievement Prize awarded by the LibertasFilm Festival. The famous Croatiantennis player Goran Ivanišević and JohnMc Enroe played an exhibition tennismatch in front of the Rector’s Palace.Other celebrities who visited Dubrovnikon a romantic trip this summer includedthe protagonist of the Desperate HousewivesTV series Eva Langoria and herhusband Tony Parker who enthralled thepeople of Dubrovnik by their simplicity.Together with their friends they walkedthrough the City with no security at all,and the photographs of their Croatianholiday were seen by Langoria’s numerousFacebook fans all over the world.Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 31

FOTO OKONapisala Božica ÐurđevićUmjetnost je tekslutnja...Marko Ercegović rođen je 1975.godine u Dubrovniku. Predavačje osnova fotografije na Akademijilikovnih umjetnostiu Zagrebu. Izuzetnomproduktivnošću nižesamostalne i skupneizložbe, a i važnenagrade i priznanja,i u Hrvatskoj, i uinozemstvu.MarkoErcegovićWin t e r 2010/11Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 33

Art ismerely a presentiment- Znamo što jesmo, no ne znamo štomožemo postati - govori jedan od Shakespeareovihlikova. Za mladog dubrovačkogmajstora umjetničke fotografijeMarka Ercegovića, kao da je prirodnitijek stvari odlučio što on jest i što ćebiti, dojam je kojega ostavljaju njegovefotografije koje su precizno i jasno, nonepretenciozno zaustavljene, sačuvanesekvence vremena. Marko je četvrta generacijau obitelji Ercegović koja se bavifotografijom. Zajedno s generacijomizuzetno nadarenih mladih fotografa činiprepoznatljiv umjetnički krug koji većviše godina utječe na oblikovanje dubrovačkekulturne stvarnosti i s razlogom sevjeruje da će i njihov rad imati značenjena puno široj sceni.Vaše fotografije često, zadržavajućidistancu od motiva i ostavljajući promatračuda bez izravnih sugestija doživiraspoloženje kamerom zaustavljenogtrenutka, kao da odražavaju i samu bitdubrovačkog mentaliteta u njegovoj najboljojmaniri, nenametljivosti. Je li riječsamo o osobnom senzibilitetu ili je ipakto i stvar genskog koda i odnjegovanogpristupa ljudima, stvarima, vremenu… ?- Mislim da je to stvar osobnog razvoja.Fotograf mora prilaziti motivu s poštovanjem,ako želi da mu on bude darežljiv.U nekom smislu riječi, ta distancaje ona koja ne uznemirava, kao da prilazitenekome tko drijema. S druge strane,ono što okružuje motiv bitno je kao i onsam - fotografija je ono što NISTE snimili,što je izostavljeno.Stasavali ste i sazrijevali u jednom posebnomvremenu za Dubrovnik, u jednojpostratnoj, kulturno indisponiranojsredini, premda se to izvana tako ne čini.Jesu li to vrijeme i sredina potaknulipotrebu da motive istine, ljepote istvarnosti tražite i pronađete na socijalnoji prostornoj margini?- U postratnoj Hrvatskoj, centralnupoziciju zauzeli su ljudi i događaji kojime ne interesiraju. Oni imaju svojefotografe na stalnoj plaći. Meni preostajeveći dio, i ne mislim da se radi onikakvoj margini. Ono što me zanima sudogađaji koji su prividno marginalni, aza koje mislim da imaju noseću važnostu mediju fotografije.Živite u Zagrebu, a Dubrovniku se stalnovraćate. Svojedobno sam čula kakojedan dubrovački fotograf govori svomprijatelju da bi bio jako sretan da je togtrenutka prvi put u Dubrovniku. Kakovi vidite sadašnji stvarni Dubrovnik, akakvog biste ga htjeli vidjeti sutra?- U Zagrebu radim, Dubrovnik je mojedoma. Tu svjedočim svakodnevnoj eksploatacijislike Grada od tisuća „neurotičnih“fotoamatera. Njihova nemogućnostda se nose s prizorom pred sobomje i razlog za postavljanjem fotoaparataizmeđu - radi se o nekoj vrsti agresije izsamoobrane od ljepote koju vide. Osje-34 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

THE PHOTOGRAPHIC EYE of Marko ErcegovićNapisala/By Božica Ðurđeviććam potrebu da im se suprotstavim: čimvidim neki spektakularan događaj, spremamaparat i gledam, a stvari mi postajuzanimljive kad se ništa ne događa.Umjetnost nije objašnjenje, nego slutnja– čini se najispravnijim objašnjenjemMarkovog pristupa fotografiji, umjetnostii životu općenito. U tom smisluon će reći da je fotografija za umjetnostotprilike ono što je šah za sport, te da jenajbolje objašnjenje umjetničkog rada daje to proces, s nepredvidivim krajem, ida su tek povremeni rezultati oni koji suvrijedni pažnje.Anative of Dubrovnik, MarkoErcegović was born in 1975. Heteaches essential photography atthe Zagreb Academy of Visual Arts. Hehas had a large number of one-man andgroup exhibitions and has been awardedmany times at home and abroad.- We know what we are, but know notwhat we may be – said one of Shakespeare’scharacters. For the youngDubrovnik master of art photographyMarko Ercegović, it seems that thenatural course of things is responsiblefor what he is and what he will be. Thisis the impression that his photographsleave. They are the precisely and clearly,yet unpretentiously halted, preservedsequences of time. Marko Ercegovićbelongs to the fourth generation of pho-Win t e r 2010/11tographers in his family. Together witha generation of outstandingly talentedyoung photographers, he is a part of arecognisable art circle which has beeninfluencing the Dubrovnik cultural realityfor several years, and whose work is,with good reason, expected to affect amuch wider area.Distancing themselves from the motifsand enabling the observer to experiencethe mood of the moment captured bythe camera without direct suggestions,your photographs often seem to reflectthe very essence of Dubrovnik mentalityin its best manner and unobtrusiveness.Is it merely your own sensibility, or alsoa matter of genetic code and sophisticatedapproach to people, things, time…?I believe it to be a matter personalgrowth. A photographer must approachhis motif with respect if he wishes it tobe generous. In a sense, that distance isnot disturbing, as if you are approachingsomeone who is dozing. On the otherhand, that which surrounds the motif isas important as the motif itself. A photographis that which you DID NOTcapture, that which is omitted.You grew up and matured in your workat the time which is quite special forDubrovnik, in a post-war and culturallyindisposed environment, although itdoes not seem so from the outside. Werethat time and environment the reasonswhy you began to look for the truth,beauty and reality in the margin, takinginto consideration that you often findyour motifs particularly in the social andspatial margins?- In the post-war Croatia, the centralposition was taken by the people andevents I am not interested in. They havetheir own photographers on the payroll.A larger part remains to me, and I believeit has nothing to do with any margins.What I am interested in are theevents which are apparently marginal,but which I consider to have major importancein the medium of photography.You live in Zagreb, but keep on returningto Dubrovnik. I once heard aDubrovnik photographer saying to hisfriend that he would have been veryhappy if he had been in Dubrovnik forthe first time at that moment. Whatis your perception of the real presentdayDubrovnik, and what kind ofDubrovnik would you like to see in thefuture?- I work in Zagreb, and Dubrovnikis my home. This is where I bear witnessto the everyday exploitation of theCity’s image by thousands of “neurotic”amateur photographers. Their inabilityto cope with the scene in front of themis the reason they place their cameras inbetween – it is a kind of aggression inself-defence from the beauty they see. Ifeel a need to defy them: the moment Isee a spectacular event I lay my cameraaside and watch, and the things begin tointrigue me when nothing is going on.Art is not an explanation, but a presentiment– seems to be the most preciseexplanation of Marko’s approach tophotography, art and life in general.In that sense he says that - roughlyspeaking - photography is for art thatwhich chess is for sports, and that thebest explanation of artistic creation isthat it is a process with unforeseeableoutcome, and that only occasional resultsdeserve attention.Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 35

Stari zanati bravar Mladen MišićČuvar ključaod GradaJedna od dubrovačkih specifičnosti,bravarska radnja obitelji Mišić, upovijesnoj jezgri Dubrovnika jegotovo pola stoljeća. Danas u njoj radiMladen Mišić koji je odmalena zanatučio s ocem. Cijelo djetinjstvo proveo jena Bunićevoj poljani. Trgovinu od svega13 četvornih metara otvorila je u Dubrovniku70-ih godina prošloga stoljećastara kovačka obitelj Mišić iz Konavalakoja se tim poslom bavi više od 500godina.- Nije bilo dileme oko toga što raditi uživotu. Trgovinu sam naslijedio od oca iotkad znam za sebe, tu sam. Skoro samse i rodio ovdje – govori Mladen Mišićkoji je s desetljećima rada prikupio ihvalevrijednu kolekciju starih brava iključeva. Skupljati ih je počeo njegovotac, a on je do danas kolekciju utrostručio.Ima više od 350 ključeva i oko60 starih brava.- Ljudi znaju da sam skupljač pa midonose ključeve. Neki dan mi je jedanpoznanik donio punu vrećicu ključića odmalih škrinjica.Skupio je brava starih po 300, pa i 400godina, koje su zamijenjene novima, apotom bačene.- U želji za novim, ljudi nerijetko bacajustare brave i ključeve koje sam znaopronaći na smetlištu. Meni je najdražau kolekciji brava sa zvoncem. Ona se neotvara uobičajeno već je treba tri putaokrenuti, a onda na njoj zazvoni batić.Potrebno je malo pričekati i ključ vratitiu suprotnome smjeru. To je brava smornarske škrinje kojoj je to bila zaštita.Ako bi je netko pokušao otvoriti čulobi se zvono. Imam dvije takve brave. Strećom mi je došao na popravak vlasnikkoji nije znao kako se otvara – pričaMladen Mišić kojega posebno veselikolekcija ključeva. Neki od njih stari suviše stoljeća.- Vjerujem da je najstariji ključ onajod prije 450 godina. Ne znam za što jeslužio, ali je bio za otvaranje nečega vrlovažnoga jer je specifično izrađen. Po vrlokompliciranoj izradi vidi se otprilike zašto su ključevi korišteni. Tako imam 5, 6starinskih ključa od grada starih više odstotinu godina. Na njima se vidi da ih jeradio isti meštar.Mladen Mišić radio je i velike starinskeključeve za Knežev dvor.- Tu se sve radi na ruke. Od sirovogključa ručno se izrađuju zupci i kanal.Slične sam ključeve izrađivao i za Pomorskimuzej, Muzej Rupe...Rado bi proširio zanat na ono čime senjegova obitelj bavila u prošlosti. U Zagrebumu je kolega našao cijelu kovačkuradionicu.- Kako su moji kovači, a i sam često kujemi izrađujem starinske ključe, imamplanove otvoriti kovačku radionicu.U povijesnoj jezgri Dubrovnika nemaje gdje smjestiti jer radi u 13 četvornihmetara. Najvjerojatnije će se prostorza nju naći u Konavlima odakle obiteljMišić potječe.One of Dubrovnik’s particularities,the Mišić familylocksmith’s shop has beenlocated in the Old City for almost half acentury. It is the working place of MladenMišić, who as a young boy learnedthe trade from his father. He spent hisentire childhood in Bunić Square. Theshop spreading on 13 square metresonly was opened in the 1970s by theold blacksmith family Mišić of Konavle,which has been engaged in the trade formore than 500 years.- I never had second thoughts aboutmy profession. Having inherited theshop from my father, I have been herefor as long as I can remember. I wasalmost born here – says Mladen Mišić,who now owns a valuable collectionof old locks and keys. His father hadbegun to collect them, but Mladen hastriplicated the collection, which nowcomprises 350 keys and some 60 oldlocks.- People know that I am a collectorand they bring me keys. A few daysago an acquaintance brought me asack full of small chest keys.He now has the locks which are 300and even 400 years old. Having beenreplaced by new ones, they werethrown away.- When providing new locks andkeys, people often throw away theold, which I happened to find in thegarbage. My favourite item in thecollection is a lock with a bell. It is notunlocked in the usual way. One hasto turn the key three times in orderto hear the sound of a clapper. After afew seconds, the key has to be turnedin the opposite direction. The lock36 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

Old Trades Locksmith Mladen MišićNapisala/By Silva CapursoKeeper of the City Keyswas once installed on a sailor chest asa protection. If someone tried to openit, the bell would ring. I have two locksof the kind. The third lock of the kindwas brought to me by the owner whodid not know how to unlock it – saysMladen Mišić who is particularly fondof his key collection. Some of them aremore than several centuries old.- I believe the oldest one to be 450 yearsold. I don’t know its purpose but, owingto its specific manufacture, it musthave opened something important indeed.Their quite complex manufactureroughly reveals what the keys were usedfor. I have five or six antique City keysmore than a hundred years old. Onecan see that hey were made by the samelocksmith.Mladen Mišić also manufactured the bigold-style Rector’s Palace keys.- Everything is made by hand. Thegrooves and valleys are made by handon the coarse key. I have manufacturedsimilar keys for the Maritime Museum,the Rupe Museum, etc. Mladen Mišićwould like to expand his business withhis family’s old trade. A colleague of hisfound him a complete blacksmith’s shopin Zagreb.- Bearing in mind the fact that I hailfrom a family of blacksmiths, and thatI often forge and manufacture old-stylekeys, I am planning to open a blacksmith’sworkshop.The shop of Mladen Mišić in the OldCity is not large enough. He will mostprobably find the place for his blacksmith’sworkshop in Konavle, where hisfamily comes from.Mladen Mišić u svojoj radioniciMladen Mišić in his workshopWin t e r 2010/11Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 37

BaštinaMirisni kućni iZlogStarinske su kuće i u Gradu i po selimaimale slične komade namještaja.Bogatije su gradske kuće brojileizobilje svega, a vrijedni se namještajdovozio brodovima iz drugih zemaljai krasio salone i spavaće sobe. Seoskesu pak kuće imale malo, tek trpezu,škrinju, blanak, postelju i obvezno barjedan buro, tu starinsku komodu saškrabijicama i mjedenim ručkama.Buro je stajao na vidnom mjestu ukamari, iznad njega ogledalo, na njemunapica, u njemu bjankarija. Bio jenapravljen od plemenita drva, čitavgladak da je ruka po njegovoj polituriklizila kao po živoj svili. Zaobljenihrubova i sa četiri prostrane ladice, kojesu resile oslikane ptice i cvijeće, on jeu unutrašnjosti čuvao probrane stvari,pomno složene i očuvane utihninom imirisom lavandinog cvijeta.Mirisali su burali i po tajnovitom,blagom i neuhvatljivom dahu koji zasobom ostavlja čisto rublje. U njegovojsu unutrašnjosti bile složene spavaćice,sotokotule, rekamane napice, faculeti,dječji pasovi, kamižoti i misna roba,ona posebna, prožeta dahom nedjeljnihizlazaka kad starost odlazi u crkvu unajsvečanijoj odjeći s kralježom i ofičicomu rukama.Svaka je ladica burala bila namijenjenaukućanima po redoslijedu koji je usvojoj mudrosti i praktičnosti odrediladomaćica. Ona je pažljivo, s obje rukeotvarala ladice, držeći mjedene ručkei pred njom se pokazivao bogati kućniizlog, bijel, uredan, mirisan da bi joj selice u punini starinskog burala uvijekotvorilo poput cvijeta, jer ljudi i kućnipredmeti dijele raspoloženja i život.A iznad ove komode je pored ogledalabilo svetačkih slika u kvadrima pa selik Gospin i čisto Isusovo lice odozgosmijalo bjelini i šestu kojim domaćica izljubavi i pažnje slaže i vadi rublje.Burali su putovali kao svadbeni daroviu kuću mladoženje, tu ostajali mnogimgeneracijama, čuvajući u jednom tajanstvenompregratku starinski nakit. Bio jeskriven pod rubljem u drvenoj škatulici, akad bi ju domaćica otvorila, zažutjela bi seperužina kolarina, prsten pečatnjak, vrećini,koralji i zlatne manine.38 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

HeritageNapisala/By Tereza Gović BuconićFragrant House Shop-windowNa čempresovim šticama poda, u društvupostelja, domaćih tapita od krpica,koltrina na funjestri i koraka koji su dolazilii odlazili uvijek istim ritmom, buroje vremenom postao stanar kuće, dragocjeninamještaj u čije je drvo i tkivo ušladuša i ljubav ukućana.Old houses in the City and the villageshad similar pieces of furniture.Richer city houses lived in opulence,and valuable pieces of furniturebrought on ships from foreign countriesadorned their lounges and bedrooms.Village houses, on the other hand, hadjust a few pieces of furniture – a table,a chest, a bench, a bed and at least onechest of drawers, this old fashioned commodewith drawers and brazen handles.The chest of drawers stood in a noticeableplace in the room and a mirror wasplaced above it. Covered with a napkin,it contained bed linen and underclothes.It was made of precious wood, andits polish was as smooth as silk. Withrounded edges and four spacious drawersornamented with painted birds andflowers, it contained fine things carefullyfolded and preserved by silence andlavender flower fragrance.Chests of drawers smelled of the secretive,sweet and elusive breath left behindclean linen. They contained nightgowns,underskirts, crocheted napkins,kerchiefs, children’s belts, bodices andfestive clothes worn on Sundays, whenold people go to church dressed intheir finest garments with a rosary andprayer-book in their hands.Each drawer was reserved for a differenthousehold member, in the order whichthe mistress of the house determinedwisely and practically. Carefully andwith both hands, she would pull thedrawers out holding the brazen handles,and the luxurious, white, tidy and fragranthouse shop-window opened up infront of her. The fullness of the antiquechest of drawers always made her faceopen up like a flower, because peopleand pieces of furniture share their moodsand lives.Above this commode, next to the mirrorstood the framed pictures of saints,so that Our Lady and Jesus smilinglywatched the whiteness and neatnesswith which the mistress of the housestacked and took out the linen lovinglyand carefully.As wedding gifts, chests of drawerswere taken into the bridegroom’s house,remaining there for many generationsand keeping the old jewellery in a secretcompartment. It was hidden under thelinen in a little wooden box. When themistress of the house opened it, a goldbead necklace, a signet-ring, earrings,corals and golden bracelets gave outtheir yellow light.Standing on cypress-wood floor boards,together with beds, home-made patchworkrugs, window curtains and thefootsteps that came and went always inthe same rhythm, the chest of drawersin time became a lodger in the house,and the wood of this precious piece offurniture became imbued with the souland love of household members.Chest ofDrawersWin t e r 2010/11Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 39

Kolekcionar / CollectorSatovi pričaju pričeŠto je to – „uvijek ide naprijed, nikadse ne umara i ne vraća?“ Liječnik BrankoÐukić ovu je poslovicu čuo i zapamtiojoš u djetinjstvu, iako priznaje, pouku onezaustavljivosti vremena, kao uostalomi svi mi, shvatio je puno godina kasnije.Da je zaljubljenik u satove jasno vamje čim uđete u njegovu ambulantu uDomu zdravlja. Umjesto hladnih instrumenata,iza stakla u vitrini ugledate budilice,zvonjarine, one starinske kakvihviše nemate gdje kupiti, a čija je kvalitetai danas neupitna. Na zidu je 40-akgodina stara kukavica, svaku punu uruotpjeva „Bečku krv“.- „Sve je počelo u najranijem djetinjstvunastankom tehničkih igračaka,a poprirodi sam znatiželjan. Ispočetka sambio autodidakt, ali moram spomenutida sam odrastao u tehnički obrazovanojfamiliji; otac mi je bio pčelar, a starijibrat je imao razne alate i strojeve zaobradu drva i metala. U osnovnoj školiobožavao sam tehnički odgoj“, pričanam ovaj specijalist medicine rada. Prvisat popravljao je kao šesnaestogodišnjak,kolegi koji je sa Švicarcem marke LIGAskočio u more. Nakon što ga je rastavioshvatio je da nema pomoći, mehanizamje zahrđao jer nije bio vodootporan.Fascinacija satovima nastavljena je i ustudentskim danima. Zajedno s kolegamaišao je u Trst u kupovinu. Dok su onikupovali odjeću, on je, mladi studentmedicine, tražio alat i povećala za svojhobi. Učio je po noći, a u stankama seodmarao uz satove, popravljao ih, rastavljao,proučavao i tako se odmarao odnapornog učenja.- „Kao mlad liječnik nekoliko godinaradio sam na Pelješcu, a kada bihtijekom kućnog posjeta spazio kakavstari sat pitao bih odakle je i koliko jestar. To su bili stari američki satovi tipaAnsonia, 100 godina stari, koje bi jednomgodišnje, po preporuci hodajućegurara-amatera, podmazivali kokošjomperušinom umočenom u petrolej“, prisjećase Branko Ðukić. Danas radi uDubrovniku, ali i dalje obavlja kućnevizite po Pelješcu i Konavlima, samo štosu pacijenti satovi. Popravlja ih i vraćavlasnicima. Fascinantan je to hobi, svakije sat priča za sebe. No, uvjerio se da isatovi pričaju priče. Ponekad u njimapronađe papiriće na kojima piše tko ihje i kada popravljao. Najstariji Ðukićevprethodnik, zasada, poruku je napisao1926-te godine.Posljednjih osam godina dr. Ðukić brineo glavnom dubrovačkom satu, onomeu gradskome zvoniku. U zvonikuje trenutačno 4-ti mehanizam i to iz1926-te. Ništa neobično, jer tvornice sutoranjskim satovima davale garancijuod 105 godina. U vrlo je dobrom stanjuzahvaljujući Ðukićevu prethodniku,pokojnome Tonću Krasovcu. Sat je izložennaglim temperaturnim promjenamašto uzrokuje širenje i skupljanje metalapa tako i nekoliko minuta kašnjenja iližurenja dnevno. Gledajući svoje Quartzsatove ljudi nerealno očekuju da ćei zvonikov ići točno u minutu. Ipak,nekoliko puta godišnje i to je potrebno.Na Novu godinu ili otvaranje Dubrovačkihljetnih igara, kada su očijavnosti uprte u brojke na zvoniku,Branko Ðukić obvezno dolazinarihtati sat.- „Zvonik je ekološki osviješten,jer je neko vrijeme tijekomDomovinskoga rata nestalo motornogaulja pa smo ga podmazivalimaslinovim uljem“, priča krozsmijeh samozatajni Dubrovčanin.Možda niste znali, aliDubrovnik ima UdruženjeRolex entuzijasta. Predsjednikmu je BrankoÐukić. Najdraži mu je sat, pogađate,Rolex iz 1965-te. Ima i veliku kolekcijuSeiko ručnih satova i mogao bi dvijegodine svaki dan mijenati sat, a da neponovi isti.Na pitanje je li teže liječiti ljude ilipopravljati satove spremno odgovara:„Ljudska je anatomija jedna, a satovaima stotinjak vrsta.“40 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

Napisala/By Sandra LackovićStorytelling ClocksWhat is it – „it always goes forward,never getting tired and never comingback?“ The physician Branko Ðukićheard and memorised this riddle in hischildhood. However, he confesses that,like all of us, he understood the riddle’smoral about the unstoppability oftime many years later. You can see thathe is a lover of clocks the moment youenter his outpatient department at theDubrovnik Health Centre. Behind theglass of his cabinet, instead of cold instruments,one can see old alarm clocksthat can’t be bought any longer, andthe quality of which is still indisputable.About forty-year old cuckoo clock onthe wall plays the Vienna Spirit tune onthe hour.„Everything began in my earliestchildhood with the appearance of technicaltoys, and I am curious by nature.I was self-taught at first, butI must mention that I grew upin a technically educatedfamily: my father wasa bee-keeper, andmy elder brotherhad all sortsof tools and metal- and woodworkingmachinery. In elementary school Iadored shop classes,“ says this industrialmedicine specialist. He repaired hisfirst watch as a sixteen-year old boy,when his school mate jumped into thesea wearing a LIGA Swiss wrist watch.Having dismantled the watch, he realisedthat it was beyond repair: it wasn’twaterproof and its mechanism becomerusty.Branko Ðukić’s fascination with clocksand watches continued in his studentdays. Together with his colleagues hewent shopping in Trieste. While theywere buying clothes, the young medicinestudent was looking for tools andmagnifying glasses for his hobby. Hestudied at night, and during the breakshe rested repairing, dismantling andstudying clocks and watches.- „As a young physician I worked onthe Pelješac Peninsula for several years.When, while making house calls, I spottedan old clock I asked where it camefrom and how old it was. They were thehundred-year-old American Ansoniaclocks, which the owners lubricated witha chicken feather dipped into paraffinoil once a year, upon the recommendationof travelling amateur clockmaker,“recalls Branko Ðukić.Working in Dubrovnik today, he stillmakes house calls in Pelješac and Konavle,except that his patientsnow areclocks. Having repaired them, he returnsthe clocks to their owners. It isa fascinating hobby, and every clock isspecial. He is convinced that clocks tellstories too. Sometimes he finds in thempieces of paper including the name ofthe person who repaired them and thereparation date. Dr. Ðukić’s oldest predecessor,for the time being, wrote hisnote in 1926. For eight years, Dr. Ðukićhas been in charge of the major Dubrovnikclock, the one in the city belltower.The bell-tower now houses itsfourth clock mechanism from 1926. Itis not unusual, because the manufacturersgave a 105-year warranty for theirbell-tower clocks. The clock is in finecondition thanks to Ðukić’s predecessor,the late Tonći Krasovac. It is exposed tosudden changes of temperature whichcause stretching and shrinkage, and alsolosing or gaining a few minutes per day.Looking at their Quartz watches, peopleunrealistically expect the bell-towerclock to be equally precise. However,the preciseness is necessary at leastseveral times a year. On New Year’sEve and at the Opening Ceremony ofthe Dubrovnik Summer Festival, wheneveryone looks at the bell-tower clock,Branko Ðukić comes unfailingly to adjustit.- „Our bell-tower is ecologically aware“,adds this unpretentious resident of Dubrovnik,smiling. „During the CroatianWar of Independence we ran short ofmachine oil, so that we lubricated itwith olive oil instead.“You probably don‘t know it, but Dubrovnikhas a Rolex Enthusiasts Society,and Branko Ðukić is its president. Hisfavourite watch is, as you may guess,a 1965 Rolex. He also has a big collectionof Seiko wrist watches, and hecould wear a different watch every dayfor two years. When asked whether it ismore difficult to heal people or to repairclocks and watches, he replies withouthesitation: „There is only one humananatomy, and almost a hundred types ofclocks and watches.“dr. Branko ÐukićWin t e r 2010/11Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 41

Importanne ResortHotel NeptunPolustoljetna legendaPočetkom šezdesetih godina 20.stoljeća Dubrovnik se vrlo ozbiljnovraćao u svijet turizma (vrijedi se podsjetitida je prije Drugog svjetskog rataDubrovnik bio vodeće turističko središtei odredište na ovim prostorima).Sve što se tada događalo bilo je u ciljurazvitka turističke privrede, tako da jetih godina, Grad bio, uistinu, velikoturističko gradilište. U planove godine1959. koji su se odnosili za, u to vrijemevelikih 800 novih postelja, uklopilase i izgradnja Hotela Neptun. Novihotelski objekt za kojeg je odlučenoda će nositi simbolično ime Neptun(rimski bog mora), počeo se graditina izuzetno lijepom i atraktivnom rtupoluotoka Babin kuk u Lapadu, odaklese pruža čaroban pogled na Grebene,Daksu, Koločep, Svetog Andriju i daljeprema pučini u pravcu Italije, s južnestrane prema Uvali Lapad, dok sa sjeverozapadnestrane pogled seže premaZatonu, Dubrovačkom primorju i dijeluelafitskih otoka. Na tom području prostiralase šuma i tvrde stijene, koje sukasnije dijelom pretvorene u površine zasunčanje kupača, dok je uz samu obaluUvale Lapad išla šetnica sve do kupalištaSumratin. Na tom „rajskom“ mjestuizgrađen je Hotel Neptun, koji je svečanootvoren u poslijepodnevnim satima13. svibnja 1961. godine.Bio je to, kako su pisale lokalne novine,objekt B kategorije sa 120 postelja i velikomsuvremenom restauracijom kojaje bila mnogo veća od potreba tadašnjeghotela, ali je to učinjeno za potrebe gostijukoji će boraviti u dva nova paviljona,koji su se planirali kasnije izgraditikao dijelovi Hotela Neptun. Prvi direktorbio je ugledni dubrovački ekonomistHinko Dragičević. Hotel je sezonski poslovaokao samostalno poduzeće i postizaoodlične turističke i financijske rezultate.Kasnije su izgrađena dva planiranapaviljona, a preuređena je i Villa Elita(objekt koji je podignut 1937. godine),čime je ponuda bila zaokružena na 500kreveta, uređeni su noćni bar i drugiugostiteljski sadržaji, veliki parking,šetnice... Mnogi Dubrovčani i njihovigosti i danas se s nostalgijom sjećaju tognoćnog bara i prekrasne terase za ples,uz živu muziku. U kasnijim godinama,Hotel Neptun je izgubio samostalnost,jer je u procesu ondašnjih integracija uhotelijerstvu i turizmu, ušao u sastavnajprije Hotelskog poduzeća Lapad, akasnije Hotelsko - turističkog poduzećaDubrovnik, u svjetskim razmjerimačuvene i uspješne hotelske kuće.Uspješno poslovanje nastavljeno je svedo početka Domovinskoga rata, a nakonratnih strahota i nepogoda radio jesamo dijelom kapaciteta uz postupnoobnavljanje.Novo poglavlje u povijesti Hotela Neptunzapočelo je 31. prosinca 2003. godinekada kupnjom prelazi u vlasništvoDruštva s ograničenom odgovornošćuImportanne, koje u svom sastavu ima iveliki prodajno - poslovni centar u Zagrebu.Novi vlasnik, dr. sc. Ciril Zovko,našijenac iz Kanade, uspješni poduzetnik,kupnjom se obvezao izvršiti dodatnaulaganja u objekt radi povećanjanjegove kategorije s tri na četiri zvjezdice.Tu svoju datu obvezu je i izvršiona najbolji mogući način. Predviđenizahvati su se odnosili na smještajni dioi brojne nove sadržaje, u što je uloženo105 milijuna kuna. U kompleksu ImportanneResort, poznatijem kao HotelNeptun, otvoren je i obnovljeni HotelAriston sa 115 soba, spomenuti Neptunima 91 sobu (ukupno 206 soba), tezgrada nazvana Importanne suit kojaima 25 apartmana. Većina soba ima privatnebalkone i pogled na more. Ponovnoje adaptirana i uređena i prekrasnaVilla Elita, koja zbog vrhunskih sadržajai svega onoga što pruža bogatim turistima,postiže izuzetno visoke cijene naturističkom tržištu.Ova hotelska kuća danas zapošljava 150ljudi (od kojih je 80 stalnih radnika),vrhunski obrazovanih, koji znaju i volesvoj posao, i dobro su plaćeni, a njihovousavršavanje u struci i u učenju stranihjezika događa se redovito, svake godine,u kontinuitetu. Predsjednik Uprave,34-godišnji vlasnikov sin, Dennis Zovko,zadovoljan je postignutim ukupnimrezultatima, a budući da hotel raditijekom cijele godine, ozbiljno pomažeturizmu Dubrovnika u produženju turističkesezone.42 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

Napisao Nikola ŠubićWin t e r 2010/11Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 43

Importanne ResortBy Nikola ŠubićNeptunHotelA Half-Century LegendIn the early 1960 Dubrovnik wasreturning to the world of tourismvery seriously (worth mentioning isthat before World War II Dubrovnikwas a major tourist destination in theregion). All events at the time aimed atthe development of tourist industry, sothat the City was indeed a huge touristconstruction site. The 1959 plans forthe then impressive number of 800 newbeds included the construction of NeptunHotel. The new hotel, symbolicallynamed after Neptune (god of the sea inRoman mythology), was constructed inthe outstandingly beautiful and attractivecape on the Babin Kuk peninsulain Lapad. It offered magnificent viewsover the reefs and the islands of Daksa,Koločep and St Andrew, towards theopen sea and Italy, the Bay of Lapad inthe south, and Zaton, the Dubrovniklittoral and a part of the Elafite islandsin the northwest. The site previouslycovered with trees and rocks was turnedinto sunbathing platforms, while aseaside promenade stretched from theBay of Lapad to the Sumratin beach.Constructed in this “heavenly” place,the Neptun Hotel was opened in theafternoon of 13 May 1961.According to local newspapers, it wasa four-star hotel with 120 beds and aspacious modern restaurant, which - althoughexceeding the then needs of thehotel - was also foreseen for the guestsof the two new extensions that were tobe added to the Neptun Hotel later on.The renowned Dubrovnik economistHinko Dragičević was the hotel‘s firstdirector. As an independent company,the hotel developed a flourishing businessduring the tourist season andachieved outstanding tourist and financialresults. The two planned extensionswere constructed later and the VillaElita (built in 1937) was renovated, sothat the total number of beds was 500.Apart from the newly opened nightclub, the hotel offered various cateringfacilities, a large parking area, walkingpaths, etc. Many guests and residentsof Dubrovnik remember with nostalgiathat night club and the gorgeous danceterrace with live music. In the yearsthat followed, the Neptun Hotel lost itsindependence. Following the then hoteland tourist integration, it became a partof the Lapad Hotel Company and laterof the Dubrovnik Hotel and TouristCompany, the world renowned and successfulhotel corporation. The businesswas successful till the beginning of theCroatian War of Independence. Afterthe disastrous war the hotel operatedonly with a part of its capacities, whilegradually restoring the sections thathad been demolished.A new chapter in the hotel historybegan on 31 December 2003, when itwas purchased by the Importanne Ltd.,which also owns a huge trade and businesscentre in Zagreb. When buyingthe hotel, its new owner Ciril Zovko,Sc. D., a successful Canadian businessmanof Croatian origin, obliged himselfto make additional investments so thatthe hotel could obtain a four-star rating.Mr. Zovko fulfilled his obligationin the best possible way. The improvementsincluded the accommodation andmany new facilities amounting to 105million kunas. The Importanne Resortcomplex, better known as the NeptunHotel, thus includes the newly restoredAriston Hotel with 115 rooms, theafore mentioned Neptun Hotel with91 rooms (206 rooms altogether) andthe Importanne Suite building with25 apartments. The majority of roomshave private balconies and sea view.Owing to its top quality facilities fortourists with big pocketbooks, the stunningVilla Elita - which was additionallyrestored and furnished – reachesexceptionally high prices on the touristmarket. The Importanne Resort has150 highly educated employees (80 ofwhom work on fulltime basis), who areefficient and fond of their work, andalso well-paid. Every year they continueto improve their technical training andtheir knowledge of foreign languages.Aged 34, Denis Zovko, the hotelowner’s son and chairman of the Boardis satisfied with the total results. Openall the year round, the hotel contributesto the extension of tourist season inDubrovnik.44 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

183X128_RESORT_final.pdf 9/27/10 11:27:53 PMDUBROVNIKHotels & Suites Dubrovnik, Croatia. Kardinala Stepinca 31,20 000 Dubrovnik, Croatia. T: +385 20 440 100 F: +385 20 440 200E: sales@importanneresort.com www.importanneresort.comCMYCMMYCYCMYKExperience unforgettable moments in our peaceful oasis!Doživite nezaboravne trenutke u našoj mirnoj oazi!Hotel Ariston Hotel Neptun Importanne Suites Villa ElitaWin t e r 2010/11Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 45

Radisson Blu Resort & Spa Dubrovnik Sun Gardens, Dubrovnik CroatiaDINING AND WINING IN THE SUN GARDENSRadisson Blu Resort & Spa Dubrovnik Sun GardensNa Moru 1, 20234 Orašac Dubrovnik, CroatiaTel: +385 20 361 500, Fax: +385 20 361 501info.dubrovnik@radissonblu.comwww.radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik46 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ DUBROVNIKNapisala Sandra LackovićKada je prije stotinjak godinau Dubrovniku vidio preparatvelike glave i repa tune,poznati prirodoslovac Spiridon Brusinazapisao je: „Vidjeti treba, i ponavljam:londonski i pariški bi se zavodi moglidičiti ovakvim preparatima.“ Gigantskaje tuna,jedan od tisuću eksponataPrirodoslovnoga muzeja Dubrovnik,ulovljena koncem 19.stoljeća u Hodilju(Hodiljama) kod Stona, a ovaj raritetnidermoplastični preparat izradio je drugipoznati prirodoslovac, DubrovčaninBaldo Kosić. Službeno, najmlađi je todubrovački muzej, koji se u zgradu uAndrovićevoj ulici, u povijesnoj gradskojjezgri, uselio u ožujku 2009-te. No, povijestprirodoslovlja u Dubrovniku sežejoš u 1872. kada je otvoren Domorodnimuzej (MUSEO PATRIO). Temelj mu ječinila prirodoslovna zbirka ljekarnika ibrodovlasnika Antuna Dropca pa i većinamuzejskih eksponata potječe s kraja19-og i početka 20-tog stoljeća, međukojima su najbrojniji oni iz zbirki puževai školjkaša, minerala i ruda, ptica, morskihalgi, okamina i riba.Sedam je osobitovrijednih prirodnina - herbariziranealge Matije Botterija i Marije de Cattani,preparati silikatne spužve venerinekošarice, preparat: glave tune, golememorske kornjače sedmopruge usminjače,sredozemne medvjedice, vidre i preparatirijetkih ptica koje su nađene samo nadubrovačkom području.Kada na prvom katu zgrade ugledatečetiri velika preparata, drago vam je štoste u muzeju jer mnogima zasigurno nebi bilo ugodno susresti takve primjerkeu moru. Riječ je o psini lisici, atlantskojpsini, morskoj kornjači sedmoprugojusminjači i već spomenutoj glavi irepu tune. Gigantska je tuna svojevrsnazvijezda muzeja jer više od stotinu godinaizaziva pozornost posjetitelja kojise čude i pitaju kolika je uistinu bila.Nedavno su temeljem znanstvenihpodataka procijenjene dimenzije tijelatune, kako bi se izradio model u prirodnojveličini, koji će postati dio stalnogpostava muzeja. A tuna je, vjerovali iline, bila duža od 2,5 metra i teža od 250kilograma. Sastavni dio projekta su pedagoškeradionice za srednjoškolce, jerse edukativnim programima ukazuje nastatus ove vrste u Jadranu, te na potrebunjezinog očuvanja i zaštite.Posebna jevrijednost sačuvanog dijela zbirke većibroj različitih vrsta koje kasnije nisuzabilježene na ovom području, pa činedragocjenu dokumentaciju o stanjuprirode s kraja 19.stoljeća. Muzejskagrađa uostalom svjedoči o promjenamabiološke raznolikosti, urbanističkomerazvoju Grada i cjelokupnome kulturnomenasljeđu. Srećom, postoji muzej,pa možete vidjeti kako izgleda sredoze-7dubrovačkih“čuda”WelWin t e r 2010/11c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 47

mna medvjedica,vidra ili ogromna pticadroplja koja je još prije stotinjak godinaživjela u Gospinom polju, vrste koje danasrijetko ili gotovo nikako ne možetevidjeti u prirodnom staništu.U prizemljuzgrade postavljena je izložba Hrvatskogbiospeleološkog društva „Živo špiljskoblago dubrovačkoga područja“, rezultatvišegodišnjega istraživanja bogatih speleološkihobjekata dubrovačkog kraja.No, u Prirodoslovnom muzeju otišli sui korak dalje-izradili su model špilje umjerilu 1:1 i posjetiteljima omogućili daje istraže uz pomoć speleološke opreme,kacige i čeone lampe. Osvjetljavajućišpilju čeonom lampom mogu prepoznatistalaktite, stalagmite, stalagmate,šišmiše ...7„Wonof DuNije to prvi put da se ovdje planinarilojer u Prirodoslovnom muzeju Dubrovnikuvijek nastoje biti zanimljivi, originalnii edukativni pa su svojedobno pravooduševljenje mnogobrojnih posjetiteljaizazvali članovi Hrvatske gorske službespašavanja koji su se uz pomoć opremepopeli na krov zgrade.Da biste došli do Prirodoslovnoga muzejaDubrovnik ne trebaju vam predznanjeni planinarska oprema. Put je jednostavan,krenete s Gundulićeve poljane prekoplace i na skalinima od Jezuita ugledatćete stratu s natpisom...i, pred vamaje nova dimenzija kulturnoga nasljeđaDubrovnika.Having seen the mount of bigtuna head and tail in Dubrovnika hundred years ago,the renowned natural scientist SpiridonBrusina wrote: „ A must see! I repeat:the institutes of London and Paris wouldbe proud to have such mounts.“ Oneamong the thousand Dubrovnik NaturalScience Museum exhibits, the giant tunawas caught in the late 19th century inthe village of Hodilje near Ston, whilethe rare dermo-plastic mount was madeby another well-known natural scientist,the Dubrovnik born Baldo Kosić. Officially,it is the youngest Dubrovnik museum,which moved into its present daypremises - located in Andrović Streetin the Old City - in March 2009. However,the history of natural science inDubrovnik goes back to 1872, when theNational Museum (MUSEO PATRIO)was opened. The museum was basedon the natural science collection of thepharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac,so that the majority of the museumexhibits originate from the late 19thand early 20th centuries. The largest innumber are the exhibits from the collectionsof snails, shellfish, minerals, ores,birds, marine algae, petrified objects andfish. The seven extremely valuable itemsinclude the algae herbaria of MatijaBotteri and Maria de Cattani, the Venus‘flower basket silicate sponge mounts,the tuna head mount, the leatherbacksea turtle mount, as well as the mountsof the Mediterranean Monk Seal, the otterand the rare birds which were foundexclusively in the Dubrovnik area.When facing the four huge mountsexhibited on the first floor, one feelshappy to be in a museum because seeingsuch specimens in the sea wouldbe frightening indeed. They includethe thresher shark, the Atlantic shark,48 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

DUBROVNIK NATURAL SCIENCE MUSEUMNapisala/By Sandra Lackovićders“brovnikHowever, there have been other opportunitiesfor mountain-climbing, organisedby the Natural Science Museum,which always tries to be interesting,original and educative. Some time ago,the members of the Croatian MountainRescue Service caused much excitementclimbing the roof of the building usingtheir equipment.In order to come to the Natural ScienceMuseum you need neither foreknowledgenor mountaineering equipment.The route is a simple one: if you walkfrom Gundulić Square past the greenmarket, you will see the Jesuit steps anda banner with the inscription... and youwill find yourselves in front of a newdimension of the Dubrovnik culturalheritage.the leatherback sea turtle and the aforementioned tuna head and tail. The gianttuna is a star of the museum. For morethan a hundred years it has attractedattention of the visitors who have wonderedand speculated about the tuna‘sactual size. The scientists have recentlyestimated the dimensions of its body, sothat a life-size model will be made andexhibited in the museum. Believe it ornot, the tuna was more than 2,5 metreslong and was more than 250 kilogramsin weight. This project will includesecondary school workshops aiming toacquaint the students with the statusof this species in the Adriatic sea andwith the necessity of its protection. Especiallyvaluable in the collection is alarge number of species which were notfound in this area afterwards, providingprecious evidence of how the naturelooked like in the late 19th century. Themuseum items, after all, witness to thechanges of biological diversity, to the ur-Win t e r 2010/11ban development of the city and to theentire cultural heritage. Luckily, thereare places like this museum, where youcan see how the Mediterranean MonkSeal, the otter and the huge bustardlooked like. The latter is a bird whichlived in Gospino Polje a hundred yearsago, which you can nowadays seldom oralmost never see in its natural environment.On the museum ground floor onecan see the exhibition of the CroatianBiospeleological Society entitled TheLiving Speleological Treasure of the DubrovnikArea, the result of many yearsof exploring the rich speleological sitesin the Dubrovnik region.However, the people at the Natural ScienceMuseum went a step further. Theyproduced a model of a cave at a scaleof 1:1 enabling the visitors to explore itusing speleological equipment, helmetsand head flashlights. They can thus recognisestalagmites, stalactites, bats, etc.Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 49

ODLAZAK TRUBADURAUlicama našeg Gradaživjet će Markov glas...Protekloga nas je ljeta napustiouzor svih dubrovačkihzabavljača Marko Brešković,član i suosnivač legendarnih Dubrovačkihtrubadura, proslavljenih diljemsvijeta. Od osnivanja Trubadura 1962.godine, Marko je uz Ðela Jusića i LucianaCapursa te Ladislava Padjena, HamaHajdarhodžića i Boba Berdovića – članoveizvorne postave, karakterističnimzabavljačkim stilom i vrhunskom vokalnomi instrumentalnom izvedbom stekaoiznimnu međunarodnu popularnost,koja je kulminirala nastupom na Euroviziji1968. pjesmom Jedan dan. Prvaim je snimka, Sva u crvenom, snimljenau studiju Radio Dubrovnika, a prvi velikiuspjeh bila je pobjeda na Splitskomfestivalu 1967. s “Ulicama moga grada”(Luda mladost). Marko je kao glumacnastupao u predstavama Dubrovačkihljetnih igara, te u filmu Željka SenečićaDubrovački suton. Kao velik i nepopravljivzaljubljenik u jazz tijekom 90-ihgodina prošloga stoljeća u programu jeRadio Dubrovnika vodio specijaliziranuemisiju o jazzu.Brojni Dubrovčani i gosti Grada Markaće pamtiti i kao vještog ugostitelja, kojije sedamdesetih godina prošloga stoljećavodio popularni “Suvenir-bar”, a potomi zacijelo najpoznatiji dubrovački Hardjazzcaffe Trubadur. Tu se svake ljetnevečeri (nerijetko i zimi!) čula “živa” svirka– uglavnom jazz-standardi (Americanprvi sastav dubrovačkih trubaduraThe original line-up of the Dubrovnik Troubadourssong book) i sve ono što se u takav kontekstmoglo uklopiti, a središnji lik svihizvedaba, uz njegov neizostavni kontrabas,bio je trubadur Marko. Uz njegasu nerijetko muzicirali, često i znalačkimeđu sobom izmjenjujući instrumente,njegovi sinovi Tonči i Nikola, a gdjekadi najmlađi Vlaho, inače vrsni bubnjar.Nije bilo neobično zateći ih pred “Trubadurom”kako s prijateljima glazbenicimaiz Grada i odsvukud, sviraju i “usredpodneva”, ako je bila neka “festa” ili sujednostavno Stradunom šetale veće skupineturista, želeći im Grad predstaviti upunom svjetlu i zvuku!Za svoje je Trubadure Marko znaonaglasiti da su nastali na korijenimaromanske, a ne anglo-saksonske muzike,misleći pritom poglavito na Italiju ipjevače kakvi su bili Peppino Di Capri,Renato Carazone ili Adriano Chellentano.Tako je i prva trubadurska snimkazapravo prepjev pjesme koju je skladaoTalijan Marino Marina Tutta in roso.Uslijedile su Ðelove obrade poznatihdalmatinskih pjesama u cha-cha ritmuili swingu, a prvi pravi trubadurskiautorski hit bila je Oj, djevojko, dušomoja, koja je već tada bila ono što bi usvijetu danas zvali etno, pa i “worldmusic”.Još će mnogi naraštaji u Dubrovnikuprepričavati zanosne plesne večeri uRestoranu Jadran u atriju Samostanasvete Klare, gdje su Dubrovački trubadurinastupali od 1962. do 1967. Tegodine dolazi već opisana pobjeda naprestižnom Međunarodnom festivalu uSplitu, a Marko s Trubadurima počinjeinternacionalni pohod i seriju nastupau najpoznatijim europskim i svjetskimdvoranama, televizijskim spektaklimai festivalima. Marko je znao posebnoistaknuti kako su Dubrovački trubaduriobavili veliku misiju nastupajući više oddvadeset godina pred hrvatskim iseljeništvomu Australiji, Južnoj i SjevernojAmerici, po cijeloj Europi: “Sretali smopubliku koja je već treća generacija uinozemstvu i zaboravili su naš jezik.Međutim, znali su riječi naših pjesama.Neki su uz naše pjesme popravili svoj“broken” hrvatski. Muzika i sport moguviše učiniti nego bilo kakva politika.”Trubadurske vječne skladbe: Noćnamuzika, Pusti da ti leut svira, Jedandan, Marijana, Dok palme njišu grane,Dalmatinski lero, Luda mladost, AdioMare, Mi prepuni smo ljubavi... mnogiće još dugo pjevati ulicama našega Grada.U odjeku tih ulica raspoznat će se iMarkov glas...Marko Brešković, a rolemodel for all Dubrovnikentertainers,member and co-founder of the legendaryand world famous band The DubrovnikTroubadours, passed away lastsummer. From the band’s foundationin 1962, owing to his distinctive entertainingstyle and outstanding vocal andinstrumental performance, Marko – togetherwith the members of the originalline-up Ðelo Jusić, Luciano Capurso,Ladislav Padjen, Hamo Hajdarhodžićand Bobo Berdović - won huge internationalpopularity, which culminated withthe band’s appearance at the Eurovision50 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

DEPARTURE OF THE TROUBADOURNapisao/By Slobodan Nano VlašićMarko’s voice will live in thestreets of our City...glo-Saxon music, bearing in mind Italyin particular and the singers such asPeppino Di Capri, Renato Carazone andAdriano Chellentano. Terefore, the firstsong which The Troubadours recordedwas the arrangement of the song by theItalian composer Marino Marina Tuttain roso. It was followed by Ðelo Jusić’sarrangements of the well-known Dalmatiansongs in the rhythm of cha chacha and swing. The Troubadours’ firstreal authorial hit was the song entitledOj, djevojko, dušo moja, which at the timealready belonged to the style now calledethno, and even world music.Song Contest 1968 with the song Jedandan. Their first recording Sva u crvenomwas made in the Dubrovnik Radio studio,and their first major success wasthe victory at the 1967 Split Festivalwith the song Ulicama moga grada (Ludamladost). As an actor Marko appearedin the Dubrovnik Summer Festival playsand in the Željko Senečić film entitledDubrovački suton. A great lover of jazz,he ran a jazz programme on the DubrovnikRadio in the 1990s.Win t e r 2010/11Numerous residents and guests ofDubrovnik will remember Marko asa successful manager of the popularSouvenir Bar in the 1970s, and later ofDubrovnik’s most popular Hard JazzCafé Troubadour. This is the place whenon summer nights (and often in winter!)one could listen to live music – mainlyjazz standards (American Song Book)along with everything that fitted intothat context, and Marko the troubadourwith his indispensable double basswas the heart of all performances. Heoften jammed with his sons Tonći andNikola, who were occasionally joined byMarko’s youngest son Vlaho, an excellentdrummer. It was not unusual to seethem playing in front of the TroubadourCafé with their friends, musicians fromDubrovnik and from other parts of theworld, also at midday on some festiveoccasion, or when they merely wishedto present the City at its best to largergroups of tourists who promenadedalong Stradun!Marko claimed that his Troubadours hadtheir roots in the Roman, and not An-Many generations will continue to talkabout the enchanting daning partiesat the Jadran Restaurant in St Claire’sConvent Atrium, where The DubrovnikTroubadours performed from 1962– 1967. It was the year of the aforementioned victory at the perstigiousInternational Split Festival, after whichMarko and The Troubadours beganto perform extensively at the world’smost renowned concert halls, festivalsand in TV programmes. Marko likedto emphasize that The DubrovnikTroubadours completed a major missionperforming for the Croatian emigrantsin Australia, South and North Americaand Europe for more than twentyyears: „We happened to meet the thirdgeneration imigrants who forgot theCroatian langage. However, they knewthe lyrics of our tunes, and some ofthem improved their ‘broken’ Croatianthanks to our songs. Music and sportscan accomplish more than any kind ofpolitics.“Many people will continue to sing TheTroubadours’ eternal songs such asNoćna muzika, Pusti da ti leut svira, Jedandan, Marijana, Dok palme njišu grane,Dalmatinski lero, Luda mladost, AdioMare, Mi prepuni smo ljubavi…While these songs resound in the streetsof Dubrovnik, people will recogniseMarko’s voice…Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 51

Stranci koji to više nisuMark ThEnglez u DubrovnikuMarka Thomasa sam upoznao tijekom pripremanja prvog broja WELCOM-a (2001.) kao njegovučenik u Inlingue.Kako se poduka održavala u uredu Turističke zajednice Grada Dubrovnika,nastolu oko nas su uvijek bili brojni prospekti koji su jako privlačili Marka. Sve ga je zanimalo pa mečesto nešto zapitkivao, a najviše smo pričali o sljedećem Welcomu koji ga je jako zainteresiraozbog brojnih tema o dubrovačkoj prošlosti i njegovom danas. Mark je tada sramežljivo govoriohrvatski, bolje rečeno dubrovački, kojeg je naučio od punice, a tema je bilo napretek. Dvije godinekasnije prekinili smo poduku i jako se rijetko viđali.Obradovao sam se kad sam vidio da je pokrenuo „The Dubrovnik Times“, a još više kad je u MoskaruDubrovačkog vjesnika počeo pisati, izuzetno čitanu i zanimljivu kolumnu Englez u Dubrovniku.Zbog svega toga mi je izuzetno drago da ćemo, umjesto klasičnog razgovora, baš u ovom dvadesetom,jubilarnom broju, i u ovoj rubrici, objaviti dio njegove kolumne Englez u Dubrovniku.ad sam prvi put došao u Du-planirao sam ostati“Kbrovnik,godinu dana. U to vrijeme sam živio iradio u gužvi i jurnjavi Londona pa jegodina dana u miru i tišini izgledala kaodobra ideja. Pozdravio sam se sa svojimprijateljima i rodbinom vjerno im obećavajućida ćemo se vidjeti za godinu danakad završi moj dugi odmor. Moja žena ija smo se dogovorili da ćemo, nakon štoprođe godina dana, sjesti za stol i porazgovaratio tome što ćemo dalje raditi igdje ćemo dalje živjeti.Devet godina je prošlo i mi još uvijeknismo o tome razgovarali.Prvi posjet Gradu izgledao je kao živarazglednica. Kombinacija Grada s krovovimaod terakote i blistavog plavogmora još i dan danas me zadivljuje. SamuelJohnson je jednom rekao da ‘Onajkoji se umorio od Londona, umorio seod života’. Isto se može reći i kad gledateDubrovnik – nikad se ne možeteumoriti od tog pogleda.Integrirati se u lokalno društvo bio jesljedeći izazov pa sam imao konfuznipočetak. S prvim okusom dubrovačkogmentaliteta ispod mog remena, krenuosam dalje.Sljedeći kamen spoticanja bio je jezik.Kad sam prvi put čuo hrvatski zazvučaomi je kao da su talijanski i ruski jezikupali u mikser i rezultat te kombinacijeje stvorio hrvatskog govornika s tečnimjezikom. Dubrovčani, imaju sklonostgovoriti mnogo glasnije i s puno višepokreta rukama nego Englezi. Ovo svemože biti jako zbunjujuće za turiste kadugledaju dvoje ljudi kako živo viču jedanprema drugom dok uživaju u kavi.Iako može izgledati i zvučati kao da sesvađaju oko neke životno važne teme,u najvećem broju slučajeva oni samorazgovaraju o nogometnoj utakmiciprethodne večeri ili o vremenu. U stvari,što su teme razgovora više svakodnevne,glasnije se o njima priča. Ako vidite daljudi šapuću, tada znajte da razgovarajuo nečem ozbiljnom.Dok je čaj u 17 sati u Engleskoj poputinstitucije, ustvari mnogi kafići ibarovi izvan Londona uopće ne služekavu, brazilsko zrno je ovdje broj jedan.Postoji gotovo cijela kultura organiziranaoko rituala ispijanja kave. UnutarGrada vidjet ćete osnivače ‘’kavaklubova’’,stare gospòđe i gospare kakosjede na Stradunu i piju svoju kavu dok‘’vježbenici’’ tj.pripadnici mlađe generacijepiju kavu po kafićima u pokrajnimulicama. Poslovi se sklapaju za vrijemekave, stvaraju se prijateljstva, problemise rješavaju, upoznavaju se novi ljudi.Jedan ‘’lokalac’’ mi je jednom ispričaopriču o odvjetniku u Dubrovniku kojinije imao svoj ured nego je sve svojeposlove obavljao u kafićima u Gradu.Turisti me obično pitaju kad ovdje ljudirade kad su kafići stalno puni. Kad samprvi put došao ovdje s namjerom da tuživim, bio sam iznenađen, čak i pomaloljut na ljude koji su po cijeli dan samopili kave, zbog toga što na takvo neštoja nisam navikao. Sada, nakon nekogvremena što sam ovdje, ne bih nizaštopropustio pauzu za kavu, iako još uvi-jek ponekad uživam u mom čaju u 17sati popodne. Sve stvari se mijenjaju ikako je Gail Sheehy rekla - ‘’Ako se nemijenjamo, ne rastemo.Ako ne rastemo,ustvari ne živimo.’’was happy to see that he startedI The Dubrovnik Times, particularlywhen he also began to write the widelyred and interesting column entitled AnEnglishman in Dubrovnik in the DubrovnikVjesnik’s Moskar. These are thereasons why I am so pleased to publisha part of his column An Englishman inDubrovnik particularly in this jubilee20th edition, instead of a classical interview.«When I first came to Dubrovnik, Iplanned to spend one year there. At thattime I lived and worked in London at ahectic pace, so that a year spent in peaceand quiet seemed like a very good idea.I said goodbye to my friends and familypromising to see them in a year’s timeafter my long holiday. My wife and Iagreed that after that we would sit anddiscuss what to do and where to liveafterwards.Nine years later, we still haven’ had thatconversation.My first visit to Dubrovnik looked like aliving postcard. The city’s image with itsterracotta roofs and glittering azure seahas continued to amaze me up to thisday. Samuel Johnson once said: ‘Whena man is tired of London, he is tired oflife’. This also applies to Dubrovnik –one can never get tired of watching it.My next challenge was to integrate intothe local society, and I had a confusingbeginning. Having tasted the Dubrovnikmentality, I went on.The following stumbling block was thelanguage. When I first heard Croatianit sounded like the Italian and the Russianlanguages put into a mixer, andthe combination resulted in my fluent52 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

Foreigners No LongerNapisao/By Nikša BenderomasAn Englishman in DubrovnikI met Mark Thomas while preparing the first edition of Welcome magazine (2001) as his Inlinguestudent. The tuition took place at the Dubrovnik Tourist Board premises, and we were always surroundedby numerous brochures which Mark found very interesting. He wished to know everything,asked many questions, and we talked mainly about the next Welcome edition that intrigued himbecause of many themes on Dubrovnik’s past and present. At the time Mark was quite shy whenspeaking Croatian, to be more precise, the Dubrovnik dialect, which he learned from his mother-inlaw.And there were so many things to talk about. Two years later the tuition ended, and we seldomsaw each other.Croatian. The people of Dubrovnik tendto speak much louder and gesticulatemuch more than the English people do.All this can be quite confusing for thetourists watching two local people whoshout bubbly to each other while enjoyingtheir coffee. Although it may seemthat they are quarrelling about someessential issue, in most cases they merelytalk about the last night’s footballmatch or about weather. Actually themore everyday the themes of the conversationare, the louder people talk aboutthem. If you see the people whispering,you can be sure that they are talkingabout something serious.While the five o’clock tea in Englandis like an institution – many cafés andbars outside London actually don’t servecoffee at all - the Brazilian coffee beansare number one here. There is almost anentire culture of coffee drinking ritual.In the Old City you can see the foundersof ‘coffee clubs’, elderly ladies andgentlemen sitting in Stradun and drinkingtheir coffee, while ‘the trainees’, i.e.the younger generation members havetheir coffee at the side-street cafés. Overa cup of coffee people make deals, makefriends, solve problems and meet newpeople. One of the ‘locals’ told me astory of a Dubrovnik lawyer who had nooffice and managed his affairs at the OldCity cafés. Tourists often ask me whenthese people work, seeing the caféswhich are always full. When I first cameto Dubrovnik planning to live there, Iwas surprised and even a bit angry atthe people who spent the entireday drinking their coffees, becauseI wasn’t used to that. Now,having spent some time here, Iwouldn’t miss my coffee breakfor the world, although I stillenjoy my five o’clock tea nowand then. All things change,and, as Gail Sheehy put it ‘Ifwe don’t change, we don’tgrow. And if we don’t grow,we actually don’t live’.”Win t e r 2010/11Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 53

DUBROVČANIN U KRALJEVSKOM KLUBUANTE“Košarkaš s lijevom i desnom rukom”Tehnika playmakera, mekana rukai impozantna visina, plus talenti brzina te izuzetna motorika - to susve odlike jučer najvećeg talenta, a danasveć jednog od najboljih hrvatskihkošarkaša. Ante Tomić je visok 217centimetara. Od siječnja ove godine ječlan Real Madrida. Prvi je Dubrovčaninu Kraljevskom klubu, deveterostrukomprvaku Europe. U redove najtrofejnijegeuropskog kluba stigao je nakon igranjaza Košarkaški klub Zagreb.Košarku je Ante počeo igrati u Košarkaškomklubu Dubrovnik. Prvi trenermu je bio Pero Jejina, a prvi košarkaškitrening je odradio s osam godina, 1995.godine. U Košarkaški klub Zagreb odlazi2002. godine te s njim osvaja drugomjesto na Kadetskom prvenstvu Hrvatske,a kao junior naslov prvaka te jeizabran za najboljeg juniora Hrvatske.- Tomić će biti naš novi Krešimir Ćosić -napisali su tada.Iako mršav za poziciju centra, nedostatakkilograma nadoknađivao je odličnomtehnikom u borbi s protivničkim,daleko težim centrima.- On je najbolji igrač Zagreba - isticalisu mnogi košarkaški treneri. Potvrdatoga je stigla u vidu trofeja - MVPregionalne lige. Tomić je u sezoni2008./2009. bio najkorisniji igrač ligaškogdijela lige.- Nagrada godi, ali nisam pretjeranozadovoljan jer je Zagreb ostvario lošplasman - kazao je na kraju te sezone.U novoj sezoni, nakon prvog dijela,ponovno je MVP, najkorisniji igrač lige:drugi strijelac, prvi skakač. Ali, ovaj putje itekako zadovoljan jer je Zagreb vodećisastav lige.- Može on igrati i u NBA ligi - isticalose još u ljeto 2007. godine. Godinu danaposlije, 2008., Tomić je izabran u drugomkrugu NBA drafta. Izabrao ga jeUtah Jazz.- On je budućnost kluba - izjavio je tomprilikom Kevin O’Connor, glavni menadžerUtah Jazza.Ipak, ostao je u Zagrebu, u Europi.- Bit će vremena za NBA - kazao je.Laskavi naslovi najboljeg igrača regionalnelige i naslov pobjednika KupaHrvatske rezultirali su pozivom izMadrida. Košarkaški klub Zagreb nijemogao odbiti izdašnu ponudu Real Madrida,bogatog španjolskog kluba te jeDubrovčanin osam dana od posljednjegnastupa za Zagreb, 24. siječnja 2010.imao debi u dresu Kraljevskog kluba.Unatoč svemu ranije navedenom nadebi u dresu A reprezentacije Hrvatsketrebao je pričekati. Bio je među kandidatimaza nastup na Olimpijskim igramau Pekingu, ali dobio je virozu te nijenastupio. Iako je godinu dana poslijePekinga, na Mediteranskim igrama uPescari, nastupajući za B reprezentacijuHrvatske osvojio zlatnu medalju i bioponajbolji igrač, nije otišao s A reprezentacijomtog ljeta na Europsko prvenstvou Poljsku.Debi na velikim međunarodnim natjecanjimadočekao je na Svjetskom prvenstvuu Turskoj ovoga ljeta i to protivnajjače reprezentacije SAD-a. Unatočporazu od SAD-a s 28 koševa razlike,ostavio je više nego dobar dojam. LamaraOdoma, centra LA Lakersa, NBAprvaka, Tomić podsjeća malo na PauGasola, španjolskog reprezentativca, kojimu je suigrač u LA Lakersima. Tomića jepohvalio i Tyson Chandler, centar DallasMavericksa.- Momak ima budućnost, puno togaobećava. Zna se kretati za visokog igrača,ima i lijevu i desnu ruku, odličnepoluhoroke i pred njim je zaista svijetlabudućnost. Naravno, i u NBA ligi –kazao je Chandler, koji je tako ponoviosve ono što je o Tomiću napisano prijenekoliko godina.playmaker technique, soft hand,A imposing height, talent, speedand outstanding motoric – are theattributes of the greatest talent ofyesterday and one of the best presentdayCroatian basketball players. AnteTomić is 217 centimetres tall. Fromthis January he has been a member ofReal Madrid. He is the first Dubrovnikplayer in the royal club which has wonthe European Championship nine times.Ante Tomić joined the most successfulEuropean club after playing for theZagreb basketball club.Ante began to play basketballin the Dubrovnik basketballclub. His first coach was Pero Jejina,and he had his first practice session in1995, at the age of eight. In 2002 hewent to the Zagreb basketball club,with which he won the second place inthe Croatian Cadet Championship thatsame year. After that, playing as a junior,he won both the Championship andthe best Croatian junior title.- Tomić will be our new Krešimir Ćosić– was one of the comments at the time.Although thin for the centre position, hecompensated the lack of kilograms withhis excellent technique playing againstthe opposing teams’ far heavier centres.He is the best Zagreb player – claimedmany basketball coaches. That wasconfirmed by the MPV regional leaguetrophy. In the season 2008/2009 Tomićwas the best performing player in theLeague.54 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

A NATIVE OF DUBROVNIK IN THE ROYAL CLUBNapisao/By Tonči Vlašić- The award is flattering, but I amnot completely satisfied becauseZagreb was poorly ranked – said heat the end of that season.- After the first part of the new seasonAnte Tomić was again the League’smost valuable player: second bestscorer and best jumper. This time,however, he is very satisfied becauseZagreb is the League’s top rankedteam.Already in the summer of 2007 peopleclaimed that he was capable of playingPlaying basketball with both left andright handsin the NBA League too. A year later, in2008, Tomić was selected by Utah Jazzin the NBA second-round draft.- He is the future of the club – claimedthe Utah Jazz General Manager KevinO’Connor on that occasion.Ante Tomić, nevertheless, stayed inZagreb, in Europe.- I still have time to play in the NBA –said he.The flattering best regional leagueplayer title and the Croatian Cup Winnertitle resulted in the invitation fromMadrid. The Zagreb basketballclub could not refuse the generousoffer of the rich Spanish club Real Madrid,and, eight days after his last playfor Zagreb on 24 January 2010, theDubrovnik basketball player debutedwearing the royal club kit.In spite of the above-mentioned facts,Ante Tomić had to wait for his debut inthe Croatian national team. He was oneof the candidates selected to appear atthe Beijing Olympic Games, but a virosisprevented him to do so. Althoughhe won gold medal and was the bestplayer in the B Croatian national teamat the Mediterranean Games in Pescaraa year after Beijing, Ante Tomić was notinvited to play in the A national team inthe European Championship in Polandthat summer.He eventually made his debut inthe World Championship in Turkeythis summer, playing againstthe strongest national team, thatof the USA. In spite of a 28-pointsdefeat, Ante Tomić left a very goodimpression. Lamar Odom, the centre ofLA Lakers, the NBA champions, saidthat Tomić reminded him of Pau Gasol,a member of the Spanish national teamand his team mate in LA Lakers. TheDallas Mavericks centre Tyson Chandleralso spoke highly of Ante Tomić.- The boy has a future and promises alot. As a tall player he knows how tomove, he uses both his left and righthands, has excellent semi-sky hooks,and really has fine prospects. Of course,in the NBA league too – said Chandler,who thus repeated everything thathad been written about Tomićseveral years ago.TOMIĆWel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 55Win t e r 2010/11

AdmiralHOTEL LERO, Iva Vojnovića 1420000 DUBROVNIK - CROATIAT +385 20 341 333 F +385 20 332 123sales@hotel-lero.hr www.hotel-lero.hr40 DOBRODOŠLI U DUBROVNIK ZIMA 2OO9/1O56 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

Sportske legende GradaAndrijaHabulinNapisao Tonči VlašićHabulin kao trener na svjetskom prvenstvu u Parizu 1979. godine.Te je godine Kovačević osvojio 3. mjesto.Habulin as a coach in the World Championship in Paris, 1979.That year Kovačević was ranked third.Nakon što smo odslužili vojnirok, general Janko Bobetko,tadašnji zapovjednik vojneoblasti, pozvao je Sulejmana Muratovićai mene, te rekao: “Ako ne želite biti u rezervidok sam živ, morate u Dubrovnikupokrenuti folklor i judo.” Tako je počelo.Muratović je pokrenuo folklor, a ja judo- prisjetio se Andrija Habulin događaja skraja 50-ih godina prošloga stoljeća.- Preko naših veza u Londonu, dubrovačkeobitelji Sorgo, te suradnje s dubrovačkimentuzijastima Vlahom Lučićem,Antunom Napicom, dr. Markovićem,Markom Grošetom, Pavom Mitrovićemi drugima, organizirali smo prvuprezentaciju juda na ovim prostorima,i to u Cavtatu. Doveli smo čuvenognizozemskog judaša Esinga i treneraVan der Eista. Taj prvi seminar, kojije održan na cavtatskom plivalištu,trajao je deset dana. Postavili smodrvene pontone i na njih par strunjača,koje smo posudili od gimnastičkihklubova, a ono što jenedostajalo, pokrili smo praznimvrećama od brašna. Tako je bilote 1960. godine - prepričao jedogađaj od prije točno 50 godinadanas 73-godišnji Andrija Habulin.Rođen je u Bedekovčini1937., a od te 1960. godinenjegov život vezan je za Dubrovnik.Habulin je začetnik borilačkihsportova u Dubrovnikui okolici, inicijator, pokretači osnivač, uz još nekolikosportskih entuzijasta, Judokluba Dubrovnik, koji je usvom začetku imao i sekcijukaratea te ju-jitsua. Odsamog osnivanja kluba, pado unatrag nekoliko godina,bio je trener koji je odgojionebrojeno mnogo uzornih sportašai sportašica.- Svih ovih godina judo je u DubrovnikuWin t e r 2010/11Otac judauDubrovnikuWel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 57

Sportske legende GradaTrostruki svjetski i olimpijski prvak MoriWakiu Dubrovniku 1982. g. na internacionalnomseminaru kojeg su održala četiri svjetska prvaka.The three-time world and Olympic championMoriwaki in Dubrovnik, 1982, at the internationalseminar conducted by four world championstreniralo više od 6.000 Dubrovčana -kazao je Habulin koji je najzaslužnijiza brojne uspjehe koji su postignutikako u muškoj, tako i u ženskoj konkurencijiu svim dobnim kategorijama,pojedinačno i ekipno u domaćoj i međunarodnojkonkurenciji. Bio je trenerkako judo reprezentacije bivše države,tako i Republike Hrvatske.- Već 1968. godine, dakle, nakon samodvije godine od osnutka kluba (registriranje 17. travnja 1966. godine),imali smo državnog prvaka, pa su nasljudi u Gradu počeli shvaćati ozbiljnije.U početku nisu imali sluha, judo im jebio nepoznanica. Sjećam se kad smo nasamom početku rada kluba organiziralidemonstraciju kod Orlandova stupauoči otvaranja Dubrovačkih ljetnihigara, ljudi su komentirali “kakoje to neki folklor, koji je došaoizvana!”Habulin, koji je nositelj crnogpojasa 8. DAN u judu,5. DAN u ju-jutisu te 4.DAN u karateu, s judomse prvi put susreo kao14-godišnjak na seminaruu Zagrebu.- Odmah sam zavoliojudo. Sjećam se, učio nas jejapanski natjecatelj Nacui, prvisvjetski prvak u otvorenoj kategoriji,po kojemu smo poslije i nazvalidubrovački klub. Da, prvo ime dubrovačkogkluba je bilo Judo klub Nacui.U Dubrovniku, nakon seminara uCavtatu, formirali smo sekciju 1961.godine. Radili smo tada u HoteluExcelsior. Shvatio sam to kao zabavuza Grad. Vidio sam da se djeca voleigrati, valjati po strunjačama i krozzabavu, učio sam ih judo.Prva generacija judaša, kazao je, bila jetemelj dubrovačkog juda.- Tu su bili dr. Cikatić, Mitrović, Viđen,zatim Trosman i Škerlj, danaspoznati slikari, koji su u to vrijemebili gimnastičari, ali kako im je klubprestao s radom, nastavili su raditis nama. Imali smo, takoreći, i svojglazbeni sastav jer u Poklisarima susvi članovi bili judaši. Tako se judouvlačio i uvukao pod kožu Gradu, apočetkom 70-ih dobili smo prvi putpomoć od gradskih tvrtki. Baš tadasmo imali nadarenu generaciju kojaće kasnije ostvariti velike uspjehe. Sviznaju danas za Gržetića, Zekića, Spačeka,za Nadu Duš... prvaci ondašnje58 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

The City’s Sports legendsANDRIJA HABULINBy Tonči Vlašićdržave s reprezentacijom su osvajali ieuropske medalje. Počeli smo tih godinaorganizirati državna prvenstva, jaketurnire... Osjetio sam da Dubrovnik volimomčadi, ekipne sportove, što je posljedicaduge tradicije vaterpola i Jugovihrezultata. Grad tako diše! Možeš imatipojedinačnog prvaka Europe, ali to neznači puno, ako nemaš jaku ekipu. Stogasam radio na stvaranju jake momčadi.Sedamdesetih godina, kad vaterpolo nijeosvajao medalje, mi smo bili ti koji smoosvojili preko pet stotina državnih medalja,državna prvenstva... A za to ostvaritinije dovoljan samo trener jer trenerje dobar onoliko koliko dobre ljude ima- zaključio je Habulin.After we had completed ourmilitary service, GeneralJanko Bobetko, the then militarydistrict commander, invited SulejmanMuratović and me and said: «Ifyou don’t wish to remain reservists aslong as I live, you must start folkloreand judo in Dubrovnik». That’s how itbegan. Muratović started folklore, andI judo – said Andrija Habulin recallingthe events in the late 1950s.- Through our contacts in London,the Dubrovnik family Sorgo, and thecollaboration with Dubrovnik enthusiastsVlaho Lučić, Antun Napica, Dr.Marković, Marko Grošeta and PavoMitrović, we organised the first judopresentation in the region, to be moreprecise, in Cavtat. We invited the famousDutch judo wrestler Esing andcoach Van der Eist. The first seminar,which took place at the Cavtat swimmingpool, lasted ten days. We installedwooden platforms, covered them withseveral mats which we borrowed fromlocal gyms, and covered the remainingspace with empty flour sacks.This is how Andrija Habulin, aged 73,describes the events that took place in1960, precisely 50 years ago. He wasborn in Bedekovčina in 1937. From1960 on, his life has been connectedwith Dubrovnik. The originator ofWin t e r 2010/11The Father of Judoin Dubrovnikmartial sports in Dubrovnik and itssurroundings, Habulin, together withseveral sports enthusiasts, initiated andfounded the Dubrovnik Judo Club,which also included the karate andju jitsu sections. During his tenure ascoach, from the club’s foundation up toseveral years ago, he brought up a hugenumber of fine sportsmen and sportswomen.- All these years more than 6,000 peopleof Dubrovnik have had judo practicesessions – said Habulin, who is mostresponsible for numerous successes bothin men’s and women’s, individual andgroup competitions in all age groups,at home and abroad. He coached judonational teams of the former state and ofthe Republic of Croatia.- Already in 1968, only two years afterthe club’s foundation, which had beenofficially registered on 17 April 1966,we had a national champion. That iswhen the people in Dubrovnik beganto understand us more seriously. At thebeginning they had no interest in judobecause they were not familiar with it.I remember that soon after the club’sopening we organised a demonstrationby the Orlando Column on the eve ofthe Dubrovnik Summer Festival opening.The people believed it to be „a foreignfolklore!“The owner of the black belt 8th danrank in judo, 5th dan in ju jitsu and 4thdan in carate, Habulin met with judo forthe first time as a fourteen year old boyat a seminar taking place in Zagreb.- I immediately became fond of judo. Iremember that our coach was the Japanesecompetitor Nacui, the first opencategory world champion, after whomwe later named our Dubrovnik club.That’s right. The first name of the Dubrovnikclub was the Nacui Judo Club.After the aforementioned seminar inCavtat, we formed the Dubrovnik sectionin 1961. At the time we worked atthe Excelsior Hotel. I understood that tobe a kind of entertainment for the City.I saw that the children enjoyed playingand rolling on the mats, and I taughtthem judo through fun. The first generationof judo wrestlers was the foundationof the Dubrovnik judo, said AndrijaHabulin.- It included Dr. Cikatić, Mitrović,Viđen, the nowadays renowned paintersTrostman and Škerlj, who weregymnasts at the time and who joinedus after the closing of their club. We, soto say, also had our own band, becauseall members of the Poklisari were judowrestlers. That is how judo got underthe City’s skin, so that in the early1970s we for the first time got financialsupport from the city companies. Itwas the time when we had a talentedgeneration that became extremely successfullater on. Today everybody knowsGržetić, Zekić, Spaček, Nada Duš...,champions of the former state whowere winning European medals as thenational team members. In the yearsthat followed we began to organisenational championships and major tournaments…I felt that Dubrovnik wasfond of team sports, which was the consequenceof its long water polo traditionand of Jug results. Such was the atmosphereof the City! You can have individualEuropean champions, but thatdoesn’t mean much if you don’t have astrong team. That is the reason why Iworked on creating a strong team. Inthe 1970s, when water polo failed towin medals, we were the ones who wonmore than five hundred national medals,national championships… In order toachieve such results, you need more thana coach. The value of a coach equals thevalue of his people – concluded AndrijaHabulin.Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 59

60 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

Gastro kutakNapisao Josip ŽuvelaTorta odRogacavRogaču godi topla mediteranska klima, ali ne podnosidobro preveliku količinu vode.Oblikuje arhitekturu prostora gdje god je stasao. Mnogi pokušajikultivirane sadnje nisu baš uspijevali. Stari Dubrovčani znaju da najbolje uspijevajuoni koje ne diraš dok se zameću... kasnije ih možeš navrći i „pripitomiti“da bi ti dali plod, nakon dvije do tri godine.Mahune rogača odlična su hrana. Sladak i mirisan je njegov plod. Tamnosmeđemahune su bogate šećerom, bjelančevinama, vitaminom A i onima iz B skupine,te nizom važnih minerala. Rogač je bogat pektinom koji pomaže probavi.Ne sadrži masnoću. Kalorijska vrijednost mu je za 2/3 manja nego u čokoladi.Pržen i samljeven može poslužiti kao zamjena za kavu ili kakao.Koristi se za pripremu različitih slatkiša i pića. U prehrani je najbolje i najjednostavnijeupotrebljavati fino mljeven rogačev prah (poput kakaa), s kojimse mogu napraviti ukusni i zdravi topli “čokoladni” napitci, a također se njimemože raznim pudinzima i kolačima dati fina aroma čokolade. U specijaliziranimtrgovinama zdrave hrane mogu se naći proizvodi od rogača.Win t e r 2010/11PrigotovljavanjeU pjenasto izmiješani maslac (0,12 kg)doda se rastopljena čokolada (0,14 kg) išećer (0,08 kg). Miješajući dodaje se jednopo jedno žumance, dok se šećer ne rastopi.Tada se umiješa posebno tučeni čvrsti snijegod bjelanca i slatka šećera. Ujednačenose izmiješa i dodaju (očišćeni mljeveni)rogači, brašno od rogača, strugana koricai sok od naranče te rum. Rahlo izmiješanasmjesa istrese se u namazani kalup zatorte i peče na temperaturi 175° C oko 45minuta. Pečena torta treba se odvajati odstijenke kalupa. Ohlađena torta izvadi seiz kalupa i po sredini vodoravno presiječena pola. Donja polovina premaže se pekmezomod marelice. Preklopi se gornjapolovina i poravna, a torta prelije ocaklinomod čokolade.Torta se ukrasi tučenim vrhnjem , komadićimarogača i arancinima.NapomenaUkoliko nemate svježih rogača za mljevenje,možete tortu pripremiti i bez njih uzpovećanje brašna od rogača. Brašno rogačamože se prije upotrebe malo popržiti nasuhoj tavi. Okus je puniji i finiji.Wel c o m e to Du b r o v n i k 61

Culinary CornerBy Josip ŽuvelaCarobPreparation:Beat butter until foamy (0,12 kg) and add melted chocolate (0,14 kg) andsugar (0,08 kg). Mix adding yolks one by one until sugar melts. Separatelybeat egg-whites and sugar until stiff, and add into the mixture. Add (cleanedand ground) carob, carob flour, grated orange peel, orange zest and rum, andmix until well blended and crumbly. Put the mixture into a greased cake tinand bake for about 45 minutes at 175° C. When baked, the sponge shouldseparate from the tin easily. Cool. Take the sponge out of the cake tin andcut in half horizontally. Coat the lower half with apricot jam, cover with theupper part, even, and cover with chocolate glazing. Decorate with whippedcream, carob pieces and arancini.GateauNote:If you do not have fresh carobs to ground, you can preparethe gateau without them increasing the quantityof carob flour. Carob flour will have a fuller and finertaste when roasted slightly on a dry pen before use.The carob tree likes thewarm Mediterraneanclimate, but doesn’t like largequantities of water. Wherever it grows itgives form to the landscape. Numerousattempts to cultivate the carob tree werenot particularly successful. The nativesof Dubrovnik know that the carob treeswhich are undisturbed while in the budwill grow the best… after that they canbe grafted and „tamed“ in order to bearfruit two or three years later.Carob pods are excellent food. The fruitis sweet and fragrant. The dark brownpods are rich in sugar, proteins, vitaminA and vitamin B group, and manyimportant minerals. They are also richin pectin which facilitates digestion.They do not contain fat and their caloricvalue is 2/3 less than that of chocolate.Roasted and ground carob can be servedas an alternative to coffee or cocoa. It isused for the preparation of various sweetdelicacies and drinks. Carob is bestconsumed in the form of finely groundpowder (similar to cocoa) and used forthe preparation of delicious and healthy„chocolate“ beverages. It also gives afine chocolate aroma to various puddingsand cakes. Carob products are soldin the specialised healthy food shops.Torta od rogača(Normativ za 16 osoba)- jaja- Eggs- maslac- Butter- čokolada (tamna za kuhanje)- Chocolate (dark, cooking)- šećer (kristal)- Sugar (powdered)- rogači (svježi zreli)- Carob (fresh, ripe)- brašno od rogača- Carob flour- naranča (1 kom)- Orange (1 pcs)- rum- Rum- pekmez od marelice- Apricot jam- vrhnje (slatko)- Cream (cooking)- arancini (ušećerena kora naranče)- Arancini (candied orange peel)Carob Gateau(Ingredients for 16 persons)10kompcs0,15 kg0,20 kg0,12 kg0,15 kg0,10 kg0,18 kg0,02 l0,07 kg0,10 l0,08 kg62 Dob r o d o š l i u Du b r o v n i k Zim a 2010/11

Gil’s cuisine & pop loungeSv. Dominika b.b. 20 000 Dubrovniktel: + 385 20 322 222 fax: + 385 20 322 220info@gilsdubrovnik.com www.gilsdubrovnik.com

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