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A Rapid Assessment of Kili Island - Sea Grant College Program

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Between April 2009 and August2011 a wave buoy deployed<strong>of</strong>f Delap point, Majuro 4 . Thisbuoy, deployed as part <strong>of</strong> aNational Science Foundationproject lead by the University<strong>of</strong> Hawai‘i provides real-timemeasurements <strong>of</strong> ocean waves.The buoy is directional, whichmeans not only does it measurethe height and period <strong>of</strong> thewaves, but also the directionthe waves are coming from.Calculations can also determineif waves from multipledirections are impacting thebuoy. For example a storm inthe north Pacific might generatea northerly swell with a period<strong>of</strong> 15 seconds at the same timeFigure 9. Output <strong>of</strong> Wave Watch 3 wave model on 1/20/2011 18:00 showing moderate as locally generated wind wavesnorth north-westerly swell.coming from the east with adifferent period. The wave buoy provides a means for calculating the wave heights and transmitting thisinformation to the users on the internet.Between January 20 th and the 22 nd the wave conditions in Majuro (and assumed for <strong>Kili</strong>) werecharacterized by long-period swell waves approaching from the north (Figure 10). Wave heightswere not unusually high during the period <strong>of</strong> flooding, although Hs 5 peaked at over 2.0 m on severaloccasions.Figure 10. Wave height and peak period between 12:30 pm on 1/20/2011 and 12 pm on 1/22/2011. Wave conditions were characterizedby long period waves between 1.5 m and 2.0 m. Long period waves are generally generated from distant weather events and are morelikely to cause inundation than short period waves.5

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