celebratingour 2 0 thyear - The Parklander Magazine

WINE REVIEWNapa CellarsBy Ben & Sheila BodensteinNAPA CELLARS wines areapproaching our “holy grail,” a winethat costs $5 and tastes like onethat cost $50, and not a $50 winethat tastes like a $5 wine. WhileNapa Cellars have not completelyproduced our grail, they areapproaching it faster than most.What they have done is to producea series of ultra quality wines thatsell in the $25 price range.NAPA Cellars has always been avineyard that has aimed for thehighest quality point that theirgrapes can achieve and havespared no expense to do so. Thereare none of the chemical shortcutstaken or any of the myriads of other modern industrial processes soprevalent in today’s wine industry resulting in cheaper wines ofmediocre quality. They also have not allowed the current economicdownturn to effect their quality or pricing structure. To put it simply,they are producing quality wines with good old-fashionedtender-loving care, and believe us, their wines show it.We recently had the happy occasion to sample a quartet of classic winesfrom Napa Cellars.They were, as we were delighted to find, on their waytoward our “holy grail.”Napa Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($26). This is the cabernetsauvignon that Napa Cellars hangs its hat on. This particular wine isproduced from grapes grown in the Napa Valley, an area that produces thebest cabernet sauvignon grapes in California. Some of the grapes came fromthe famed Rutherford Bench whose grapes impart a dusty, mineral elementto the wine. 2007 was a cool, growing year, which are the best conditions forcabernet sauvignon grapes.The wine displays a berry and black cherry aromaall wrapped in the haunting mineral sensation of the Rutherford Bench.As the aroma opens, one can detect vanilla, oak and spice. The flavorconcentrates on a mineral laced with black cherry, licorice, cocoa and oak.The tannins are restrained and modestly soft, but not too soft. The finish,too, is cherry-based with the signature Rutherford minerals still in evidence.This is a grand wine and truly a treat.72 MAY 2010Napa Cellars 2008 Chardonnay ($24). The cool growing season has alsoendowed this chardonnay with bold and obvious fruit flavors and aromas aswell as a traditional creamy texture. The most obvious aroma is that of Fujiapples, intermingling with Bosc pear and vanilla. The mineral element thatis imparted to grapes grown in the Napa Valley becomes very obvious withthe first sip and helps to amplify and enhance the fruit flavor of the wine.This wine, too, is well-balanced, and very easy to drink.Napa Cellars 2007 Merlot ($22). The cool growing conditions thatproduced such a fine cabernet sauvignon did the same for the merlot. Thismerlot is a blend of grapes grown throughout the Napa Valley, so there is nospecific area signature. Nonetheless, this wine is a standout. The aroma isdominated by ripe cherry and black plum with suggestions of herbs,chocolate and licorice. The flavor is mostly cherry with a hint of vanilla andoak. Some of the grapes must have come from Rutherford because there is abit of the areas signature earthiness to be found. This too is an excellentwine of great character and refinement. It was a pleasure to drink.Napa Cellars 2007 Zinfandel ($22). The classical style of winemakingadopted by Napa Cellars does wonders with the zinfandel grape. This is afull-bodied, subdued zinfandel with the usual pronounced strawberry flavorand aroma held tightly in check.The wine presents a totally new view of thezinfandel. It offers an aroma prominently featuring coffee, chocolate,plums, blackberry, licorice and pepper. The flavor of this wine mirrorsthe aroma with the addition of a berry jam element. The finish, which isexceptionally long, also reflects the cherry and berry flavors. This is azinfandel of a different turn and it definitely deserves your attention. Weenjoyed this wine very much.