RESTAURANT REVIEWBy Charles MarcanettiOld Florida! You know. It was the Florida where we wore casual clotheseven on Friday and Saturday nights, a Florida where weddings and officeparties could take place on a beach, where cool evening breezes weremeant to be embraced, not shunned. It was a Florida where therestaurants cared so much about hospitality that no one would dareadvertise steak and seafood dishes that were not exceptional. It was aFlorida where bar drinks were generous, music danceable for adults, andall employees were professionals, not merely folks waiting for somethingelse to come up.Well, my dear readers, guess what I found? I’m not kidding and this isn’t apaid political announcement. <strong>The</strong> food is fantastic and I’ll give you somehighlights in a minute. But, I must tell you that for the first time in 15years I am reviewing a restaurant/lounge where real grown-ups weredancing as couples.<strong>The</strong>y were actually holding each other: man’s hand onwoman’s waist and woman’s hand on man’s shoulder and each holding theother’s hand; how gentle, how absolutely refreshing.<strong>The</strong>re were some realgood dancers, some, like me, with two left feet and no one–NO ONEcared, because everyone was having fun. From Latin to classic to modernthe band played on and people ate and drank and danced and I driftedback to a time when, in upstate New York, the winter snow was white,where autumn leaves fluttered down to a winter’s rest and people said“Hello,”“good day,”“thank you” and “may I walk you home?”<strong>The</strong> U.S. Steakhouse Bar and Grill located at 1208 N. Ocean Blvd. inPompano Beach, just north of Atlantic (954-941-6590, ussteakhouse.com)should not have succeeded these eight years. It should have failed withinone year as most new restaurants do. After all, we don’t really dineanymore, we just eat out. We don’t slow dance without getting an “x”rating anymore and we don’t drink moderately and socially anymoreunless it’s snowing in Florida, and we don’t really enjoy each other’scompany unless there’s some deal to be cut. Well, sisters Katt and StaceyDiasynos said to the world that they, if no one else, would create an environmentto defy the norm and embrace customers who remember how toenjoy life, as fully as possible, and still maintain dignity. Joie de vivre (joy oflife) and carpe diem (seize the day) are not exclusive of each other.Let me describe the location: it is ON the beach. It is not near the beachor within walking distance to the beach; it is ON the beach. Outsidethere is a casual dining area with the locally famous Katt’s Tiki Baradjacent. You can sip your pina coladas, marguerites or whatever, whilethe band plays on. Or, you can sit inside in the crisp air conditionedlounge and dance or chat (imagine that–a place where you canactually hear your partner or guest or date or spouse. Wow, whata concept.) And, yet, there is still another choice: you can dinein the (somewhat) more formal dining area. (It’s still casual, but Isaw folks dressed to the nines and khaki-clad men and flowingfrockedladies dancing and dining side-by-side. Hmmm, whathave they started?)OK, so now that you know what it looks like and maybe evenwhat it feels like, let me tell you what it “tastes” like.74MAY 2010I had a giant rib-eye steak, bone in (all beef is Prime BlackAngus). It was medium-rare and crisped. My mouth wateredeven as I ate it, awaiting the next delicious morsel. “Who knowswhat foods these morsels be?” was coined by Marty (Lefty)Herzog, circa 1975, to express just such an experience, and itapplies, once again, at the U.S. Steakhouse.<strong>The</strong> mashed potatoeswere, in fact, mashed potatoes. <strong>The</strong>y are made fresh daily fromU.S. STEAKHOUSE continues on page 79
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