Japan and Britain After 1859: Creating Cultural Bridges

4 The price of seclusionUnder the guidance of Fukuzawa, Katayama Junnosuke wrote thepreface to, and prepared, Seiyoishokuju [Guide Book to Everyday Clothesand so on in European Style], which appeared in November 1867, that is, onthe eve of the Meiji Restoration. The book was republished in 1994 by theFukuzawa Memorial Centre at Keio University. 3 Seiyoishokuju was veryuseful for those planning to travel abroad.The young Japanese also needed a tailor. It would appear that KeioCollege did initially provide a tailoring service. But, in 1873, this was transferredto Maruzan in Yokohama. To move the tailoring service toYokohama was a sensible and logical step given the availability of foreigners,and foreign tailors, in the treaty port.For the purpose of this study a few pages of Seiyoishokuju have beenreproduced. These show drawings of Western clothes, washing facilities andbasic furniture, together with a translation into English of the Japanese textthat accompanied the pictures.Food, clothing and shelter in the WestThere are many people who wear Western style clothes recently. It isneedless to say that Western clothes are very convenient not only forsoldiers but also for people who work outside. Many Japanese, however,do not quite understand how to wear them and make mistakes such asputting on a warm jacket in the summer or wearing it as underwear.This book is written to give a general knowledge of the Western way ofliving for Japanese who do not know much about it.ClothingThese two (undershirt and drawers) (see figs 1.2 and 1.3) are mademostly from knit cotton or some from flannel. People usually use theones made from flannel in winter. Shirts, made from calico or hemp, arefor general use. Flannel shirts are used during trips. Because they arewoollen they do not get dirty easily.The collar (fig 1.4) is made of hemp, some paper-made. The latter onesare inexpensive, but you have to throw them away after using them foronly one day. Do not forget to put this collar on. Otherwise, it is as if youwore underwear (worn with a kimono) with han-eri (a collar for kimonos).It is very inexcusable.Ordinary shoes (see fig 1.5) are substitutes for geta. Boots are used inrainy weather or on horseback. Slippers are substitutes for uwa zori,used inside. A shoehorn is used, putting it between your heels and shoesand slide it to make it easy to put on the shoes.A gentleman’s coat (see figs 1.6 – 1.9) is everyday clothing for peopleof the upper classes. A business coat is for ordinary people; upper-classpeople, however, wear it when they are both in and out. Even servants