J.CHURCHJAPAN TOUR2003BY BEN SNAKEPITfast-driving American. Just as we wereabout to get on the bus, Massa told usthat the bus ride would be sixteenhours! Holy shit! I looked on withdread as the bus pulled up, actuallylooking SMALLER than aGreyhound. Fuck. Sixteen hours.I climbed onto the bus to discovera paradise. Instead of thegreyhound-style two rows oftwo seats, there were threeseparate rows of one seateach, with a little walkwaybetween each row. I sat downin my seat; it was like a littlecockpit. There was a blanket,pillow, sleep mask, earplugs, and headphones, allwaiting for me. The seat hada radio built into the arm.There was even a little pairof slippers to wear to thebathroom. Wow. The seatreclined all the way back, soI could lie down and stretchall the way out. The bathroomwas downstairs, right next tothe free coffee and tea. As Ifell asleep, the attendant cameand pulled curtains around eachindividual seat. I slept like ababy.We arrived the next morning inFukuoka, met at the bus station byYoichi Eimori of Snuffy SmileMINORITY BLUES BAND IN NAGOYAbuilding that houses the club and loaded in.There wasn’t really much to load in, though,because at Japanese punk shows everybodyshares the same equipment. After a reallylong soundcheck, we walked around the cornerto a record store. It was tiny andcramped and dirty, just like an Americanpunk record store. Then we checked out thisgigantic four-story comic book store. Fuckyes! Japan rules! After eating some inari(bean curd and rice wrapped in seaweed.The literal translation is testicles) we headedback to the club. The show was pretty good;there were four bands. The short-fast-loudcoreband Arelights was first, followed bythe Clash-y Practice, and Pear of the West.After the show we hung out back at Tosh’splace and ate noodles and drank the tiniestlittle six-pack of Asahi beer I’d ever seen,prompting me to make the world’s smallestbeeramyd. It looked like this tour was gonnabe fun.DAY TWOWe woke up pretty early to make thelong drive to Matsuyama. We took two separatevans and the drive was really prettyand scenic through the Japanese countryside.We arrived at the tiny, but extremely hip,Jett Rockbar where we did a quick soundcheckbefore heading out to the shoppingarcade. Every city we went to had one; itwas a big semi-outdoor mall that stretchedon for eight or nine city blocks. It was prettycrazy: cars could drive through it and lots ofpeople sped by on bikes. The mall wasstocked with huge video game arcades, toyand record stores, and 100 yen stores (sort oflike those “Everything’s $1” stores we havein America). We headed back to the clubjust in time to catch the first band, DriftAge. Up next were the Minority Blues Band.They would be doing the rest of the tourwith us, and are old friends of J Church (theprevious lineup of J Church had done a split7” with them). They played an extremelytight set of Snuff/Leatherface style punk.Practice also played. After the show weheaded to the grocery store to get some food(I was slowly starting to realize that I wasn’tgoing to dig Japanese food very much) and ashort drive to Yumi’s house, where wepassed out pretty quickly, worn out from thelong day of driving and rocking out.DAY ONEAfter a pretty brutal, thirteen-hour flight,we arrived Narita Airport in Tokyo, andimmediately jumped onto a train. We rodethe train for about an hour across Tokyo,where we met up with Massa (guitarist forthe Urchin) and Kaori (guitarist for theHappening). They gave us our bus tickets toFukuoka, way on the other side of the country.I looked at my little map of Japan and itlooked like the distance was about 300 milesor so, so I figured it would be a five or sixhour bus ride. I had no idea that Japan doesn’treally have a lot of big highways. I was80 just thinking like a big, dumb,Records. He was the tour’s promoter andmanager. He took us to Tosh’s house (bassplayer for Practice) to shower up and eat.The shower was crazy; it was a whole littleroom with a tiny bathtub in it, with thisspace age digital faucet where you type inthe temperature you want the water to be.Again, thinking like an American, I forgotthat Japan uses Centigrade instead ofFahrenheit and burned myself. Doh! Prettysoon it was time to head over to the club forsoundcheck. This tour was run on a prettytight schedule. Japanese efficiency. Wepulled up to the fantastic, crazy-lookingDAY THREEWe woke up early again and hopped inthe van to drive to Tokushima. We had totake a ferry to get there, and arrived at asleepy little fishing village an hour beforethe ferry was to depart. After another weirdmeal at the Japanese equivalent of aDenny’s, we drove onto the ferry. The ridewould be about an hour, and the boat hadlots of cool places to hang out and peep thebeautiful scenery of the mountains and thesea. On the ferry, I finally came face to facewith a traditional Japanese toilet – basicallya hole in the floor with a rail to hold onto asyou squat down over the hole and poop.
Ummm, no thanks. The ferry pulled in and we drove a bit morebefore finally reaching Tokushima, a little city tucked into themountains. It sort of reminded me of Roanoke, Virginia. Weloaded into the cool little club called Tokushima Jitterbug. After aquick soundcheck of the club’s incredible sound system (what’sthe deal? All the clubs in Japan have these incredible PAs, withkickass sound engineers), we headed out for a little shopping andwrestling with more alien food. David and Chris are both vegan,so they had an extra hard time finding stuff to eat. Back at the clubwe saw Hushpuppy, Hamk, Practice, and Minority Blues Band.Hanging out in the backstage room, Tosh and I drank some beerstogether and talked in very basic English about our favorite bands.“I love J Church!” he said as he played the bassline to one of oursongs. Shit, he knew it better than me. That night, when we playedthat song, I handed the bass to Tosh and let him rock out on it. Wehad a great time and the show was a huge success. After the show,we drove to the crash pad where we drank sake and listened tobadass Japanese grindcore bands. We drank and partied long intothe night, and I passed out on the floor with a bunch of coolJapanese punk rockers.DAY FOURUp and at ‘em! We hit the road early for Kyoto, hangoversslowly fading. The twisty, windy mountain roads didn’t help mystomach much as I struggled to keep down some weird deep friedmashed potatoes and rice wrapped in seaweed. We made it toKyoto pretty early so we could check out the incredible Buddhisttemple perched on top of a snowy mountain with a breathtakingview of the city. The temple was one of the most beautiful places Ihave ever seen. Kyoto, as a whole, is an older city, with more traditionalJapanese architecture and less western influence. Wedrove up to the club, a little bar called East, tucked into the basementof the “Hotel Sexus,” which is exactly what you think it is.The show was great, with a fun little mosh pit and everything. As Iwatched the extremely badass I Excuse, Practice, and MinorityBlues Band, I chatted it up with my friend Bianca, an East Baytransplant who speaks fluent English and Japanese. She explaineda few Japanese customs to me (for instance, Christmas in Japan ismore like Valentine’s day; you eat a cake with your boyfriend/girlfriend)and translated the captions for that day’s Snakepit comicinto Japanese for me. After the show and a tearful farewell to ournew friends in Practice, who had to drive back to Fukuoka (30,000yen in tolls, that’s roughly three hundred dollars!), we grabbedsome food and headed to I Excuse’s house to sleep. It was reallycold, and for some reason most Japanese houses don’t have centralheat. Bianca said they do it to stay tough. That’s weird. A housewith a heated electronic toilet seat and a space age kitchen doesn’thave heat. We shivered ourselves to sleep.DAY FIVEAs we began our relatively short drive to Nagoya, it wasalready snowing. By the time we reached the city, it was comingdown in flurries and everything was covered in a few inches ofsnow. Having lived in Texas the past few years, I’d forgotten whatsnow was like, how pretty it was, and also how much it sucked todrive in. The traffic was at a dead standstill for a while, but wemade it to Nagoya safe and sound. We headed to a really awesomelittle record store called Answer. It was very well stocked with lotsof collectable punk records – at pretty fair prices – from all overthe world. I scored an S.O.B. record for 2000 yen. The record storewas a part of a cool little record store mall in the basement of aparking deck. There was a more trendy pop style store, the hardcoreparadise, Answer, and a small reggae dub store. We all foundcool records and headed over to he show. The club, KD Japon, wasa teeny, tiny, little place built underneath an elevated train track.As we rocked out to the sweet sounds of I Excuse, Minority BluesBand, and Navel, the tiny club got more and more packed. By thetime we played it was almost impossible to move, until a cool, oldguy started drunkenly half slam-dancing, half falling down drunk,rocking out. He fell on the PA head and broke it. He fell onJ. CHURCH IN TOKYOTHE URCHIN IN TOKYOJ. CHURH BACKSTAGE IN TOKYO