When I first came to Iceland, a majority of theroads outside the capital and most townsor villages were gravel or worse. Icelanders haddiscovered the many wonders and secrets of theircountry, but few visitors learned much about them.It’s a testament to the Icelanders vision and personalinitiative that, today, all round the country, you willfind tourist facilities and organisations that open uppractically every aspect of the country to the gaze ofthe visitors from abroad, who have increased manyfoldin number over the intervening years.The country has moved swiftly to build up aninfrastructure to make visiting Iceland a muchmore rewarding experience. It has lost little of itsmystique, however. It was not called ‘Europe’s bestkept secret’ for nothing and, even for the frequentFreed om in Fashion...................................................4Focus on Fashion at Kraum.......................................6Real Chocolate!............................................................8An Icelandic Icon.......................................................10The Artist and his Bleeding Heart..................14-15We’ll meet in the Pool........................................16-17Refinement in Reykjavik..........................................18A Viking’s Valhalla.....................................................19The Happiest Pub in Town......................................19Gifts from The Viking.........................................20-21Mountaineering made possible......................22-23Best spice in town.....................................................25Vikings at the Harbour.............................................25Harbourside Sushi.....................................................26Bright summer nights .............................................26The Brave get the Best.............................................28Jewels & Art by the Sea............................................29Eat Thai in Iceland.....................................................29Volcano House Rocks...............................................30Life of Whales ............................................................32Best way to see the city ..........................................34A Taste of the Good Life...........................................36Leather designer........................................................36The Aesthetic Wonderland.....................................37Reykjavik’s Living Museum....................................38Tours Tailored to Taste.............................................40Drive a Superjeep .....................................................40The Warmth of Álafoss............................................ 44visitor or resident, there is always something newto discover. It’s a country that does not reveal itssecrets to the casual observer but to those whotake the challenge to dig them out.Today, there are tour companies who will teachyou more in one day as you enjoy a chauffeurdrivenride to many of the hidden as well as themost popular sights. Such is the importance givento opening up the secrets to visitors that it takes athorough university course to train guides.Hotels, guesthouses and campsites have sprungup all around the country, each offering a differentperspective on their part of the country. You can eventravel right up through the middle of the country,passing famous sights like Geysir and Gullfoss, theless-travelled, but spectacular Kerlingafjöll, crossingConnoisseur’s Delight..............................................45Your own piece of Iceland.......................................46Travel in Touch............................................................47A New Memory Each Month..................................47Duty Free .....................................................................48Sail with Charcot........................................................49The Art of Bacalao in Grindavík.............................51The Heart of Reykjanes............................................52Life is Never Dull Here..............................................53The Fisherman’s Friend............................................54A Different Iceland....................................................54Rare Sights of Reykjanes.................................. 56-57I wish I could stay longer.........................................58Harbour Dining in Old Keflavik..............................58A Cultural Metropolis...............................................59They Love Life...................................................... 60-61Eat like the locals.......................................................62Opening in Akranes..................................................63Deep in Natural Wonders........................................64Home in the West......................................................66A Touch of the International..................................67Iceland’s first settler.................................................68Adventure at Sea.......................................................69Trolling the Westfjords ...........................................70A Nature Paradise......................................................71Iceland’s Oldest Country Hotel.............................71The Wonderful wild northwest.......................72-73ContentsGateway to the Vatnsnes Peninsula ....................76Eat Icelandic................................................................76A River runs through it.............................................78Sleep by the Riverside..............................................80A Legend comes to Life...........................................81Soothsayer’s Mountain............................................82A Summer Garden for the Birds............................83Horses, History and Nature.............................84-85Skagafjörður’s Treasure Trove.........................86-87Traditional Pastries and Local Food.....................88Hólar in Hjaltadal.......................................................89Eating at the End of the World..............................91Outdoor Life to the Full...........................................92At the Top of the World............................................93Hear the Singing........................................................93Riding the North .......................................................94Celebrating the Heart of Mývatn................... 96-97Best in Birdwatching......................................... 98-99A Home Away from Home................................... 100TV Chef comes home to cook..............................101The Biggest Bones You’ll Ever See!.................... 102Memories of the Old.............................................. 104East Iceland......................................................108-109Neat as a pin .............................................................110Cowshed Corner......................................................110At the Eastern Crossroads.....................................112The French Connection ........................................112rivers and winding your way between mountainranges in the rugged highlands of the interior. Smallthis country may be, but it possesses Europe’s largestglacier and most powerful river. Today, guides cantake you there in safety.Nonetheless, the natural forces are not to betrifled with. Weather can change in a matterof moments under the jet stream. Many roadscan only be driven with 4x4’s or Superjeeps.We have our share of volcanos here, too, if youjust think back a couple of years. But it all addsto the challenge and excitement of this youngcountry on fire in the basement.On the surface, the beauty of the nature isbreathtaking. The birdlife brings both professionaland amateur birdwatchers and phot<strong>og</strong>raphers.Now hikers and cyclists, campers and caravannersare unravelling more of the precious secrets thiscountry possesses. We hope you will find your ownto take home something special with you.Comfortable Hotel Bláfell.....................................113What One Woman Can Do ...........................114-115Trendy Seyðisfjörður..............................................116Dip into the splendour...........................................117In the Realm Vatnajökull.......................................118Eating well in Höfn..................................................119On Top of the World ...............................................121Discover an Ice-Blue World................................. 122Icewear takes on Víkurprjón............................... 123True Comfort Food .................................................124Idyllic Days at Þakgil ............................................. 125Sitting Pretty.............................................................126Embraced by Summer’s Light..............................127Sk<strong>og</strong>ar Folk and Transport Museum................. 128Þjóðveldisbærinn................................................... 129Viking Tours of the Westman Islands............... 130Getting there is part of the fun...........................131Within The Golden Circle......................................132Down Into the Depths............................................132A Taste of Wild and Sweet.....................................133Kerlingarfjöll the untouched beauty........ 135-136Take a Break at the Waterfall............................... 136Slakki Zoo & play centre........................................137Eat At The Source.................................................... 138A diverse community............................................ 138Southern Fantasies................................................ 140Forget the guide books.........................................142enjoyicelandicnaturePublisher<strong>Land</strong> <strong>og</strong> Saga ehf.Síðamúli 1 • 108 Reykjavíkinfo@icelandictimes.comEditor and General ManagerEinar Th. Thorsteinssoneinar@icelandictimes.comSales and MarketingAnna Margrét Bjarnadóttiranna@icelandictimes.comDelphine Brioisdelphine@icelandictimes.comSigurlaug Ragnarsdóttirsigurlaug@icelandictimes.comHulda Davidsdóttirhulda@icelandictimes.comCreditsArticles written byAna DumbaraAndrew Scott FortuneAnna Margrét BjarnadóttirÁsta ÞorleifsdóttirDelphine BrioisHrafnhildur ÞórhallsdóttirJóhann Óli HilmarssonJúlíana BjörnsdóttirKelly BaumannNanna Hlín HalldórsdóttirMarie ValgardssonStefán Helgi ValssonSteingerður SteinarsdóttirVignir Andri GuðmundssonEnglish Editor & proofreaderAndrew Scott Fortuneandrew@icelandictimes.comvideo & TV departmentEinar Th. ThorsteinssonGabriel RutenbergSigurlaug RagnarsdóttirFront cover photoSkógafoss, South Iceland byJóhannes Frank JóhannessonLayout & Design<strong>Land</strong> <strong>og</strong> Saga Layout TeamIcelandic languageIcelandic is one of the European rootlanguages, like Latin. There is no ‘c’or ‘z’ in modern Icelandic, except inforeign words. However, It still containssome letters not found in most otherlanguages. This basic list provides ageneral idea of their sounds, usingfamiliar words rather than phonetics.CharacteráæðþPronunciationLike ‘ow’ in ‘cow’Like the personal pronoun ‘I’Like ‘th’ in ‘that’Like ‘th’ in ‘thing’The opinions expressed in Icelandic Times do not necessarily reflect those of the editor, publishers or their agents. Though thecontent of this issue have been meticulously prepared, no warranty is made about the accuracy and completeness of its content.Copyright © June, 2012 <strong>Land</strong> <strong>og</strong> <strong>saga</strong> ehf. All rights reservedOddi Ecolabelled Printing CompanyHow to make use of QR codesUse your QR code reader application on your smartphone oriPad to scan the QR codes. QR code reader applications can bedownloaded free for all makes of smartphonesIcelandic TimesSíðumúla 1 • 108 Reykjavík+354 578 5800info@icelandictimes.comwww.icelandictimes.comFloWerinG PlantSand FernS oF icelandHörður Kristinssonthis is a book for anyone interested in nature,specialist and nonspecialist alike. organisedby flower colour and other distinguishingcharacteristics, it’s very easy to use.Pantanir/HoW to order:Sími/Phone: +354 575 5600netfang/e-mail: forlagid@forlagid.isWebsite: www.forlagid.isicelandic Bird Guidejóhann Óli Hilmarssona new book on the icelandic bird fauna. this is abird identification guide with phot<strong>og</strong>raphs of all thebirds that breed in iceland, winter visitors, summervisitors, passage migrants and vagrants.Forlagið publishingBræðraborgarstígur 7101 reykjavik, iceland2www.icelandictimes.comwww.forlagid.is