T RAV

T RAV Bi.L SINEUH. E AND AFRICABYCOLONEL KEATI.NGB;AUTIloR OF, A lIISTORY OF'TlIE CONQUEST OF MEXICO, FROMEIDOMETRU, ORETC.TpüR'rl)GAL,:3WITHACCOUNT OF THATALSOA SECOND TOUR TFIROUGII .FRANCE IN 1814,WlIICHA cOMPAR180N 18 DRAWN BETWEE;N'THE PItESEN'J:' AND FORMlEROF l'HAT COUNTRY AND IT8INHABITANT8.lLl,USTRATErrBY NUDIEROVS PLATESSOE.NEJl:Y, A.1'VTll2Ul1MIES, AND COS1'UME,FROM' DR.4W1NGS., MultorUlnqne homiinnmPRINTEDFOR .rU':'.'ll"\, 1BRITISH. AND FOREIGN PUBLIC LIBRARY-, CONDUIT·STREEI"HANOVER-SQUAltE.1816.

TO HIS ROY AL HIGHNESS,"TILLIAM FREDERICK,DUKE OF GLOUCESTER, I{.G. ETC.WHOSE DISINTERESTED ANDMANLY EXERTIONSIN THE CAUSE OFHUMANITYlIA VB ENDEARED HlM: TO THE COMMUNITY AT LA RGI-:, \THESE TRAVELSARE, WITH PERMISSION, MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.DYTHE AUTHon.

PRE F ACE.As there are different kinds of history, 80 are there various species oftravels. The most important of the former are certainly those whichrecite the public actions of nations, cilies, and kingdoms; since they"naturally attract .. and fix the attention of political readers, and, bysqpplyiQg them with the knowledge of past events, afford the best instructionsfQr theregulation and proper conduct of human life, without,either the trouble or danger of experience. And it will readily beallowed, that the most profitable and usefui of the latter are of thatclass whichcontain trueand correct statements of a moral, political,geograpllical, agricultural, commercial, and geological nature, togetherwitha justaecount of the institutions and customs in different climatesand countries, which chiefly influence the manners and conduct of theirinliabitants, aswêll as sorne of the measures of their governments.ln severalinstànees of literary compilation,where much is submittedto he read, .or rather, âs BOille will calI it, to be toiled througb, it isfound, that ina fewpagesthe 'author eould tell us aU"he has to say: formoral matter is perbaps condensible in the ratJo of its duetility. Thuswe see in history a faet diffused through successive sheets, which in thecolumn of achronicle occupiesbut a fewlines. 'rhesubject matter, ornarrative, or series of events, or chain of cÎrcumstances, to constitute

PREFACE.d vous plairez:" Webe1ieve, had his lordship applied this principJetothè labours of literature, instead of those of gallantry, it would havedisappointed him grievously.But men still do write and publish.Before the art of printing, such morbid effusions were solved intocacoëthes scribendi: but the expenses of the regimen in the presentday seem to have extinguished that malady; or it has, as is thecase physîcians assure us in our mortal constitutions, assumed soméother denomination. Avarice and vanity, t~hen, money and fame,will, in aU probability, be considered universally the stimuli to thisspecies of açtion in the present world. So be it. A man will befound heTe and there, in mountain or in city, resolved to think andactfor himself. 'rhen, to be sure, thel'e is for him no more of what i8caUedgetting on in the W'orld.There is l'eason enough to suppose an impression is universally diffusedin the present day, by no means dissimilar to that which theInquisition (in its placid intervals) makes 10cally in Spain. Everyman feels the existence of a somewhat with the spirit whereof hemust comply in order ta succeed. On the other hand, one of thegreatest mental gratifications our natureis capable of receiving, is thatconsCiousness, not of mere existence; but of fl'ee-born existence, derivedfrom. the unrestricted development of our moral faculties togoo' purpose and effect. Those whose thoughts take this direction,will of COurse l'emain unhum~liated hy any imputation they may beaspersedwith, wfàpped as they are in an impenetrahle cuirass ofmental armour. They have a right, however, to disclaim aIl schemeof pleasing, leaving that point entirely to work out itself. Those towhom this view of the subject may be new, will he perhaps inquisitive

VIUPREFACE.wh:Itcan bethe sequel of such thoughts in themind ofhimby 'Yihomthey àrb possessed. l t isc possible to ·imagine~ without being disappointed,an incitement in human nature ,tddê tha.t from (whichgoodl11ay result :-an impulse in man to leave thingsbetter than he foundthem. He may fail; he cannot,likeProvidence; everand inv~iâblyeffect ultimate good out of immediate evil, yet lw may wish to.anle­1io1'ate the lot of1ife; the writer, however, be itundersto

PREFACE..lX.to tbat'whieh the ,moneyed man caUs realizing. lt fertilizes, while it,j"c&urtifiBs.FF,the ~ind; and, by insulating the babits,renders bim whoe~~rciseshis faculty independent of society~'Fhere ,will be a great difference, however, between the written travelsof~ma'I1whotravelstow'l'ite, and one who does not, merit apart.'Phef'ormer notèswhat,hethinks, will illterest otijers j tije latter only"what interests himself. Sorne wouId'fain confine the writer of travels tothe dramatic unities. On the other hand, he daims the privilege offeeling.'Fhus a poster of roads will writerapidly; a sick man querulously;'~,,' tired 013n, scantily; a contemplative one; diffusely; ,a wiseman, rationally; a shallow one, frivolously; ~ fool, absl1rdly. Be aUthis as it may, however done to please him, who does il:-one l'Olemotive of publication is legitimate-that is, to serve mankind.In regard to the efforts at scientific elucidation, in the present work,the author will certainly attempt no apology :-he would have toiled tovery little purpose indeed had he tota11y neglected them. Perhaps thearticle Geology may tiU sorne pages; he is not incliI;led to thmw doubtsthereupon, it being a subject so agreeable to bis mind. The outlinesof thisgrand science, are the delight of reflection: they are the linkwhichunites ,es;,rth to heaven, as etymologies are those which connect,m~llto mllll, howey,erremotely dispersed over our planet. Here be itobserved, the great obJects of nature, the awf111 considerations whichimpress the mind from thelr contemplation, will, as they expandthought, if the inconveniencebe not vigilantly guarded against, inflateexpression; for who is madf;} ofsuch. stuffas to be able to view all nèaturethrough a she~t of ict} ?b

xiiCON TENTS.Historical rdJ,eclions.-Embassy quits Mogodor.-Routefrom :Mogodor la l\Iorocco.-Ornithologicalpeculiarities.-Mount Atlas.-Geological errors corrected.-Geological conjectures.-Morocco. ..... l," ••' •••', ...... ••••• ~ ...... ••••• • ~........ •••••••••••VoI. 1. 221Compliment paid the embassy.-Contentions for .the sovereignty of Morocc~.-:Ar:'fide~tEuropean founcl there.~Cerem()ny on delivering credentials.-Resirie'nceat. MorOf;(ftf.......Its politics, and peculiar modes of punishment.-Charity of the sztltan.-Singular madeofwarfare.-Objects if/he B~itish mission.-Objections to a British resident.-Hints tofuture diplomatist,y.--Trade '!f Mol'ôc

CONTENTS.xiiiPART THE THIRD.SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.Descent of the river Rhone, .in the journey !r0"'!' Calais to tl~ePyrenees.-Lyons, ils desertedstate an/l wretched aspect.-The quays, ramparts, &c.- Lithology ...••.•..Vol. n.141Agriculture in the nortlt,fuel, &c.-Paris, general. rejlectidns on its importance-Ils architecture,menagerie, .an~ bi)tanic garden.-State of lear,,!ing an~ .the fine arts.-TheNational Instit'llte"e::tc." ••,••••• ••• '" t, •••• '"e" 41 "'. "''' '" '" .. .. • • 149The Loire, immense stone brietges .••• ': '0 •••.•:. 0 0:' oô •• 0 ":•••• 0 • 0 • • • • • • • • • • • • • 163Montpellier, the climate, sail, collieries,· cur'l'e~CJI,trade, change in manners and sentiments,Mc '" "' "' '" '" "'Ilf,"' ••••• ., "' '" ]81Remarks o~.t!te Fztltivation of ,the soil.-Corn-land, sheep-walks, vineyards, and vines.­Expe11;s~s,.att~n:ling agriculturallaboltr.-High p1'ice (if land.-Few, tenants oecupyingland.-C~lts{!sudty tilled by thefreeholder, and expenses ofimproving land. . • • •• •• • • 199.w the olive-tree.-Process of p1'essing olives.--Metlwd of making olive oil.­1:J~;opertiesçJveights and Measures.-Manufactures, prisons, workhouses.-Jurispruden~e,formscif.. triat, &c.-Former and present church establishment.-Plans in viéw to better the conitilionwF'I*ance•••••••••••••••••••••••'•••••••• .: • • • • •• •••••••••••••••••••• 221Nârbonne,iirJzprov.ementsin ~tsv.icinity.-Salus, its ancientfortifications.-Plain cf.per-;,pignan, PratdeMetto;&cfi •••• •'! .,', ," •••' •••••'., ••• e ••• _,." •••• '. ••••• ••• 231The Pyrenees.--Geology ......... Compositio1~ andformation.-Their approach indicated by theGork tree.-Belgarde,improvements in its neighbaurhood.-Moorish. ca~tle, e:!c. • . . • . •• 238I1'INERARY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.No. 1.B..·.'el.f!Mde, on thefirontîer or S'P· ai1~, ta 'l"'0·,70US •'th G· V l II 23....,~ (J.I.' ..~, e, on e aronne ••• .............. o. . 9No. II.Descentof the Garonne, f~om Toulouse to Bourdeaux • ••••• ; • • • • • • • • • • • ... • • • • • • • • • • 240No. III.Bourdeaux to Paris •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••. •••••••••••••••ApPENDIx-Containing observations made upon a pictf4re in the Eseurial, referred to inpage 101, vol. i.callèd La Madonnà, or NuestraS~oradel.Pez, ~c. &0. &e••••••••251Nq1'ES ••.• ,tI "t",,, • • • • ••• • ••• ......"........ • • • • • •••••".. • ••••'• • • • • • • • • • • • • • •• • • •

ALIST OF THE ilLWHICH ILLUSTRATE THESE 'l'RAVELS••Plate 1. POltIRAIT.ofSâdi HQnle~.Élln~dall~Q?\Sult~n9(i~6rocêo·· to.fl!Cè t1feTttle-pqgl*..2. Distant View o!Mon~~~~rat, its Convent and. Church i() PagèS83. 1Tiew of Montserrat No. 1. 614. No. 2. 625. No. 3. 6$6. No. 4. 677. No. 5. 6~~ ~.~ n9. A SpanishBull-,fight, a Ficli\dor, and Matador 97.10. A Spanish Venta at Eyening. Arri~ros att?ei~ SUllper;fantry Man. A Lady going her Evening Round • 'i56Il. The Sultan of Morocco coming out to give Audience 18812. A View on the Plain of Morocco,· approaching the City • 22313. An Mrican Juggler • 27914. A Serpent-Tamer. An Mricli\h Chief • • 281t5. The Great Mosque at Morocco, and a modern Building in the Sulta~'s Gardens 28916. A Sanctorium in the Sultan's Gardens ~ 29017. Moors at Exerc:ise.-Th.e Vault-tqe Cbarge • 32418. Western Arabs. Moorish Winter and Summer Costume 326 .19. Arabs on their Route 32920. View of Atlas, with the Range of Hills at the. Base of the MountaiQ, taken fromthe City of Morocco • 332VOL.II.to.faee Page 3232Plate 21. Viewof the Town of Raba't, opposite Salee on theCoist ofAfriêa22. Castle and Ferry on the Route from Morocco to Salee23. Ancient Theatr~,n6w a Plàz'a de Toros,and the Ground"plan of the Naumaehiaat Merida24. View of the Grand Aqueduct at Mel'ida7778

A LIST OF THE PLATES.xvPlate 25. Remaine of the Aqueduct which supplied the Naumachia at Merida toface Page 8026. View in the Pyrenees.-The Rhone, opposite Ancone, remarkable in its Geology 17027. Ox:nithology, Macrause.-Ichthiology, Remouge 22228. View in the Pyrenees, on the New Road • 22629. View in Prats de Mello, in the Pyrenees, with Mount Canigou • • 232~O. Buonaparte's winding and inclined-plane Road by the Pass of Bellegarde,viewedNorthwards • 23231. A View of Mo:unt Canigou, :30 Miles distant, from the Fort of Bellegarde • 23732. View up the Garo»»e,.near the Pass of Laret. Upper Pass of the Garonne, wheretpe Duke of Wellington crossedwithtwenty thousand Men.A View of the Lower Passage,whéreYthe 'Duké of Wellington crollsed with fortythousand Men.!~J~uke~iWellington's Head-quarters on the Garonne33. Vi~~

Page.1 R. 1\ A TA-VOL. J.1, line 2, for has ,."ad having. 'Page 129, line 9, Jor offieer•. r'lld ofI'ices~6, 8, for blackness ,.ead blealQless,153, - 26 1for anieroread arri~ro.7, 2, for travellers l'''adtta:Y'eller.141; 11, omit the word th_9, for deines read dunes. .142, 2, for vaccalaos read baccaIa,o,8, - 27, for Bapaceme ,.ead Bassallme.144, 6, flrlodge recidledge. ".11,' - 12, (note)fareven read ever.12, S, forlt read If..14,56,64,100,­112,120,US,l, (note) for France ,.ead Ferte.2, omit the word he.Il, for airs read air.12, for here cortstituted, readhere is constituted.16, 25, far requires read acqtlires.90S, 16, for usually some ,.ead ustlallyseen some.24, IS, for (,) substitute (.)SS, S, for unaccotlntable read uncotlntable,34, - 24, for inculpable read unctllpable.42, last line, for ]Qütlsreild Icilitls: and for Guibertread Gtlichard.'51, line. 4, for Captlchin order, vying, read Capuchinorder, .here vying.25, for Mara r"ad Mar.6, after the word describe it, the referencet is omitted.4, for principal reo.dprinciple.5, (note)for Meala read Alcala.27, for place read palacèl18, for anfractuotls' read tlnCructuous.20, fl,. quisadO ,.ead gtlisado.147,151,155,156, '­16S,171,176,187,207,214,224,225,2S1,2S3,268,271,272,SOO,514,521,90S, for Manc;~~&,~~r~a~*,~ch~~.fi, for labildo rcad Cablldo. .8, and IS, for Hidal,go read Hidal~,5, and 8, for ameroread arriero.Il, foraniero read arriero.l, for December read lanuary"5,'for fallow rcad sallow.27, for here read there.2S, for towers rcad tower.18, for millet read mtlIlet.(last but one, note) for tunicas r,adLamias.IS, for mo read most.2, for part read fr0l.l.t.21, for ll,ar.dreadhalld.4, for Oalasi read Oatazi,25, for Robah, r,ad Robat.Il, (note) for Post read Port.16, Jor ~ow read ~aw.21, for not be read not to be.2, for bear·footed rcad bare-footed.II, Jor Isaac nad Tscba0'W'l, (Ilote) for nOller,ad irun.19, Jor on ,.,ad or.

TRAVELSINEURO·J>E AND AFRICA.•iNTRODUCTION.WIT'IIâll ardent wish to visil foreign countries, especial1y those of"\vhich littlehas be~nc~rnmunicated·to the world, an impression is feltthat uluch.rema:Ïns to he learned; and to vi~w those whereof much has. .beenl'ead and heard, inducesmen who possess theessential l'equisitesof health, Üme,. and.pecuniary resource, to roam abl'oad in search of informatioJ.),.or at le;;lstof novçlty.No part of the globe at this period,one thou~'l)dseyerîli;undred andeighty...four, presentéd· attractions ofeither description, more powerful than what .were offered by the nationswhich are mainly the subjects of the present work. Spain has been somuçh the selected theatre of l'omantic adventure, the l'ecital whereofdelighteçl our early yout~, anxious as the n)ind is tocontemplate thescenes so interestingly depicted by the inimitable Cervantes and LeSage, that the intervening tra,cts of Europe Seem to he a dull, stale, andunprofitable path. But péculiar rl)otives superinduced and directedthe adoption of the route now hefore the reader.George Payne, Esq~had been recently appointed consul general ina diplomatie mission from Gre.at Britain to the Court of Morocco; andfrom former intimacyan opening was I)OW presented to the narrator forB

1N TRODneTION.effecting what had been with him, an early wish, the penetration into acountry the advanced. accbunts whtreof, fro~ St~~'bo and Leo Africanusto vVindus and Braithwaite, proved tbat much of what ought to beknown yet remained unexplored. ' Mr. Payne proceeded towards hisdestination by the way of France, Italy, and the Mediterranean; butthe general rendezvous of thosewho were to visitAfrioa in his suite,was fixed at Mogodor; a situation particularly adapted, from its proxi..mity to the western extremityofMount Atlas, to afford a convenic:mtopportunity of exploring a tract hithel;to untrodden by European feet~at no great sacrifice of eitber time or finances.A considerable portionof time notwithstanding, and a still greater proportionate space of theglobe interveBe, between the first setting out· and t:h:e ultimate pc!)Àltivhich it was the fortune of the ttavellersto attain, however short thisJast turned out to be of the original destinatiolll.And th:eparticùlapswhicb presented themselves, aad. eventswhichoCèuttedduringtthe ONeallld on the other, compose the subject ofthe ensu~ng lIlarratIve.;Part orthe gronnd has indeed been traced over by subsequent travellers,part remains as yet untouched.The writer is bound to·adimiit tDalthis work makes its appearance in the present day uader peculiar ;èil'''cumstances; of which, however; the prottaction which hasattendèd itis prominent ta a degree that reduces aIl the test to insignificance. Ifthat consideration has not had. the effect of inducing him ta supprcss italtogether, it is not from want of dtle l'eHcction.It would be a crimelittIe short of the plagiarism he trusts he bas effectually avoided, to profferfor public attention a thrice told tale; buthis opinion remains, thatmatter may be novel without being recent; and until Monnt Atlas heremoved from its bai'le, which the authûl' has not heard has taken place;or until moral evil cease ta struggle with orprevail over physioal good~which he d.oes not be}ieve~ he cannot subscribe to a sentence of Ob80"

INTRODUCTION. :3leteness which the fasti~ioustless of criticism may deign to pass on hisnar;fllltive. As a post obitum work, which he has long been much inclinedto leave it, perhaps it would come with a better grace; but itmust then have failed entirely of what it may still want in a considerabledegre,e,~pevisal.Hehas doubled the rule which Horace prescribes,if t11at gpeatcritic'sprotectionwill aught avail him. At anyrate the reader obtains one SUlle benefit, reduction, as the result of proerastination.No ·defence against censure can be founded on the immaturityof the work,which ..certainly, however, no whereprofesses to givetheu€

4 INTRODUCTION.not the productions of recent travellers prove how much is ornitted ofwhat is of importance to be known, and how much the most assiduonsare liable to misinformation and error, it is probable that the presentwork wonld never have been sent to the press.At the same time it must be added, that the anthor has ever remainedfirmly convillced how much it behoved a great, enlightened, and commercialnation to advert with due attention to the benefits which, bythe intercourse hereafter pointedout, would he received and conferredby a certain politicalconnexion. The turn which the generaltaffairs ofthe world are atthe present moment taking, gives additionaI force tothis impression, and constitutes one of the several motives which concurto hisdecisionon the present moment of publication.Thus muchit has been thought necessary to prernise upon certain points wherein itwas presurned the reader would choose to he informed on taking upthework.A variety and succession of reasons of the strongest kind calledfordelay, and under sorne circurnstances might have irnposed total silence.These however now no longer exist.Explanation on the subjectcouldonly gratify curiosity ofan idle description, and such possesses no daim.Even, however, when the obstacles above alhlded to were ascertainedto he out of the way, the work, frorn the nature of it, could proceedbut by very tardy steps to publication.

5PART J.JOURNEY T HROUGH .FRAN C-E.TUE spring of '1785, ensuing the notification of the diplomatie appointtnent,being the date of rendezvons on the shore of Africa,scopein.pointp:f' time was given for visiting as much of the Spanish peninsulaasconldhe taken in one route.The predominant idea in regardto Spain at home itlthat daywas, that the country presented nothingto he learned. Still, however, it possessed aninterest even in the ohscuritywhich pervaded it; while France, 80 much the them;e of generalçbservation, was posted through with the haste and indifference whichusually prevail upon matters which it is conceived may be taken np atany tirile that suits convenience; a procedure too often productive ofunavailing regret.lt i8 by noting alone that the traveller can turn his activity to anyprofit.Indeed he rarely sets out prepared; hisplan is adopted on theimpulse or convenience of the moment, and few study for the purpo8eof qualifying themselves for the undertaking; such scientific men astravel usually confining their investigations tooue line.l'he generaloutlines of a miscellaneous knowledge form the best hasis for thefoundation of a sto~k, the accumul~tion of which depends uponinquiry.As to France and flanders, if ever a subject were exhau&ted of viatorlalnovelty, this i8 the case with regardto these cOllntries; yet sOllle

f~UJ.1loui$at the 6,st (!}emaJ)}d, an excellent ~tnd substantial two..wheetedearliag6' caplllîblé of conveying thê traveHers round Elœrope, aNd highlypfefel'able ill any point of view to an English one, unless he prefer thebeing subjected on the road to the surcharged taxation of Bational estimate.Forsuch ft carlJiage two bO'1$es ougllt, and do suffice; but thetravellre1" is very fortunate who whoHy escapes th€ post-taXi levied uJtlderthe narne and form of an appendantone, neady ascletrimental to himil\} point of time as in that of purse.QLlittingJ::alails for St. Orners,-the deines or sand-hills in the progressQîthe 1"oote lbegin to yield the face of nature to Vallon fertility.7But'~he towns t , at least bD 0111e accustorned to the bustle of England, aretnost.llteltlarkablefClr vacuity.L:lowever the country around may smile,all that is. within the walls IQoks du1l; the people seen in thestl'eetscar!'y the air desœu'lJré with them, notin. the ordinary tendency of hu­'man life, or in national charader ; and of course indicatory of somem€>'rbid political principle.Itis to be feared, and the prirnted recordscon6um it""that thequerulousdisposition early seizes the traveller onleaving his own country.In mitigatiorihe may allege that this isfostexed by the necessity of wrangling whenever he is obligedto haveinneflcourse.with rnankind; and this is bllttoO true. Public vehicleswwouldbe,hisprefeFablemode for adoption, imordeFto preseuve his tempel';:{Qr with.them aU expenditure is,dulyreg:t11lR1ted; but to suehpersons,Evitisll.at leas.t, as have seen these menagerieshevedisgorge, arecommendatiQnof this mode of progress 'Would. hardI,. be successfuI.Water carlliage.,.wherever itis to he l:llet w-.ith,as isthe case inthese fiatf~aets, and to the eastward, is hy fal th~most el~gible in every respect.'.fhis yiew. of the suhject rnayhowever ,DOW' he taken Ieave of, with theobservation that, if the science of travelling has not yet reachedilts peFfection,weaI'le.,ibistobehoped, farremoved from those days whenany

8 TRAVEL~ IN EUROPE.one could, on his return home, tender to the world a dissertation on hisown peccant humours and calI it his Tour, or think that minute detailsof enduredprivations should constitute an interesting literaryperformance.One very desirable object for the traveller previous to his setting outis, to get depicted on his mind a good idea of the country through whichheis to pass, so as to possess, in a knowledge of the spotwhereon hestands, a recognition of aIl its relative objects around, fat .and near.Military men will mpst readiIy comprehend theextent ofthis idea, andof the. clue affordédto the pursuit·()f it by the courses of the .rivers. Butthe train of ideas, it suppIies,ought to interest in some degree all pérsons;for a knowledge of the surface of a co~ntryshouldnaturally precedethe investigation of ils products.Those who travel from our country appear little habituateq to viewmatters under thisrelation; but it isby no means so.withtheenJightenednations ofthe continent; more especiallywith.our rivaIs the French.80 much of militaty habit and speculation enter into thecharacter ofthe circles of fashion, that themind is· never torpid. But theother pursuitsof mental investigation in tO)Jography and geology ;summit andinterior levels;distinctions ofsoils; aIl the grand outlinesand minorieatures of the face of nature are most readily and permanently im..pressed upon the memory by a due attention to the courses of the funningwaters, which, however irregular theymay appear on first view, onegreat harmopizing system will be found to pervade., AlI ofwhicb iscluly omitted in what is emphatically called the traveller's map; whichcontains only the post towns and the connecting routes; as, for instance,the following:St. Omers-Bethunè-Arras-Bapaceme~Peronne-St.Quentin-La Feresur Oise.CRECY; AGINCOURT, and FONTENOY, aIl object~of interest loB.

ENGLISH AND FRENCH AGRICULTURE COMPARED. 9BJ'itish traveller, are a portée ta this route*'; but digressional visits, enchemin, are abjects of cost; and digressional dissertations are too aptto superinduce critical censure.The first object to the eye of curiosity is of course the circumjacentface of nature.hisenthusiasmhere.The lover of the picturesque will find little to gratifyNothingwiIJ strike him save the difference betweenwhat he sees and what he has left, supposing him to have takenhis departure from the British islands.Perhaps no two cO\;mtries so nearly geographically contiguous

10 TRAVEL8 IN EUROPE.Thus too, none of tlIat mutual action and re-action of circulatory wealthupon landed property ; of population upon produce, which mark theapproach to a considerable or thriving town in England. The crop atthe edge of the glacis of the tdwn here is as hungry as any beycmd thereach of its shells.Indeed, if we recul' ta history fOl' information ,toguide us through the present tract of country, a person would be lèdthereby ta suppose that the places aIl around him werébuilt for nopurpose but to be besieged.Yetthesè were once the seats ofindu,stryand manufactures, which long ago frightened by the ravings of ambitionframArras and Cambrai, have obtainedthe secul'ity tocy requireunder ungenial climates. The government of France has ever been bad,operatively, though not morally; for it certainly did not meditate a na..tional suicide.But its system has been attended with aIl the effect ofone; and when it decided for manufacture (which it could notkeep)in preference to .agriculture, (which, perhaps, under iis system it coulanot obtain,) the intended superstructure,whafever height it reachècl,was raised bythe exhaustion of its shallow foundations; this statisticaledifice resemblingherein the national metropolis, though 11.ot in permanency.Qne word as ta. the picturesque of this country.pOOl', and the outlines are hardeThe fore;.ground isIn'a "fard, the reverse of England:those who pave a taste for the beauty ofna,ture will understand this,and the disappointment conveyed in it.At La Fere surOise a principal river is touched upon, and givesthetraveller an opportunity of revising his topography.Laon.-This place is marked in an extensive horizon by its situationon a }:ligh bluff hill *, resembling a h~,ad-landat sea;oneoflhose fragt

THE CITY 'O'l? LAON AND ITS CA8'J'LE.IlUl@l;ltsof.awreck ofnature which afford so much scope to thought, andwhere it i8 very probâblegeological investigations would reward thosewho have time for them.'rhe superficialsoil hereabouts is powerful; adeep argil, tinged with ferruginous substance, and capable of producingheavy crops.It appears to have 'been the palladium of the Latobrigiia powerful Kehic danof the primitive population of Europe.Bac sur d'Aire, a post station on the littleriver Aire.-On this routethe lQns, not situated in the principal town8, are small; their supplieslight; still the'traveller will find sufficiency to satisfy his wants ; perfectlycJean, and the neatnesswith which things are served up compensatesfortbeabsence of redundancy. The wine that is produced is grateful tothe,'ptMftte,ànd no apprehension need he suffered, fi'om its body, ofdanger.tothe,heador COllstitutiou.The walls of the apartmentsare bare.anarrator of travelsmay be told his mind is not allowed to digress anymore than his post-horses are.-Are men to be found who will subscribe to thisdictation? This place is a residue of a wreck of nature.Itisa proofi.patch of·former level. But who would have thought it should have presented theinterestiidOElS .at thehour,March the 18th, 1814, that these aqditional notes (dissertations an,itpleasesotb callthem)arewritten.By the coincidences.ofchanceto:be,sure, but trueitis, this ele­:vatedmass bearsastrongresemblance to a lion couchant, (there is a featllreon theWye which isconside'rably like it,j and here,on the 19thof this instant, couches the Prussian lion Blücher, after acontin1.jousbàttleQfforty-two,daysand,nights in aforeign cOllntry. Has the .human mind broken theshackles of superstition to harness onthoseof virtue? Ifit has not, let disquisition befree! There i8no.point;ofview inwhich'a country, new to an observer, can presentitself destitute ofinterest or un­;worthy,ofrecord;,,",,~forthetaleht of'himwho playsitherecorder, thatis another question. But letthe:military:man;s, description be here taken of the local features of a place which must even now havecelebrity iIi histo?; whichmust class with Crecy, Agincom't, Fontenoy~ and Maubeuge." rrhe city of Laon is situated on an elevated plateau, with dee,p [steep] shelving banks, which commandan extensive plainaroùnd; the town covers th!:l greater part of the 'plateau, the remainder iscrowned by an oldeastleand'by several windmiHs, built on highterrace waUs." .This now occupies asituation, as distinguished in nature, as in the military history of Europe. Twenty thousand men occupiedthe post (it docs notamounttoia pGsition), which this boM and escarpéhiH affords. "The remainderof F. M. B1üchel"s army was posted onj;he plain Qelow, to the right and left of the town, frontingtowards Soissons, and the cavalry was in rcserve in the l'car.""The villages of Semilly and Ardon are dose underthe town, and may be regarded as its suburbs."By M. Blücher'S' letter of the eighth, convêying information of the concentration of his whole force ofnil1cty thousand inenon that day, "his lcft occupiedLaon, and his right was at the smaU fort of Lac2

12 TRAV:ELS IN EUROPE.One procedure which an English traveller caJ;l hal'dly bring himself tothink superfltious, it is hardly possible to imprint any idea of upon theFrench; the airing of bed-linen. It it be aksed, " Is it c1ean? JJ " Touchezla,'~ is the reply of la fille, the sprightly chambrière; a pithyanswer.The drowsy traveller who had formed his plan to be away before thesun rose, finds his sheets within the hour of bed·timè wringing wet, forthis is theexplanation of the test of cleanliness.At the inns,if thetraveller must make up his mind to endure extortion, here he mayatworst count Upon civility': but it is far otherwise out of cloors.The arroganceand insolence of the postillion trihe is of an e'xtent to astoundFere." The battle of Laon took place on the day after Bonaparte had forced the Allies from Franceon the Aisne, the French advancing on the Allies by the routes from Soissons and Rheims. Thescope of the action was between Laon and Corbigny. The force the French brought forward amountedto sixtY thou'sand. The report adds, "the efforts of aIl the enemy's force have been broken againstQl1d recoiled from the bulwark whieh this fine position has afforded."In point of time, place, and action, this is one of the most interesting and instructive events in themilitary history, confined in point of time to eight days, from the events at Soissons on the third, to thefinal retreat of the French on the ~leventh; and in point of space to the arena, bounded by Rheims,the Aisne, Soissons, and Laon. And these noble efforts were made under the hardship and pressure offorty-two days incessant marching and fighting, and a winter's campaign in an enemy's.country. Theemigration ofthe children of Israel, or the retl'eat of the tenthousand under Xenophon, present nothingto be compared to it in the honour ofhuman firmness and taIent.The statement here quoted describes the adjacent country as covered with hamlets and interspersedwith smaU copses of woodland. Such then it has'continued, and such is the accurate picture of afiwoured spot. As to the post itself, it cannot but possess a powerfuI interest when Bonaparte declares-it impregnable.The French ate three dinners dressed for the Prussians, the latter four dressed by the French.Bonaparte's system was too technicaI. Something is requisite beyond the skill of the mere gladiator,to conduct war itself. It is to be hoped, however, the world will have the campaign of 1814, betweenthe Aube and Marne, in its minute details, as amaster-piece of instruction in its way. The insultoffered to fallen greatness produces disgrace only where it recoils, as it must, on the offetider's head.None is intended in the term gladiator applied to Napoleon. France cannot but be aware howmuchshe owes him. That he should have abused the greatest power that ever devolved on man is the faultof humannature. Still how completely arc talents, how completély are military fame eclipsed by thespectacle so rare as to have left hardly a trace on the general mind that such a thing ever existed! Aphilosophie monal'c~ a philanthropi9t unsoiled by politics, an Anacharsis on an imperial throne !

F~ENCH' INNS AND POSTILLIONS. 13one not prepared for it, by the recoUection that these important personagesqualify themselves, by virtue ofthe royallivery, as the.servantsof the crown and not of the public; what is in reality the badge ofservitude, being by·them perverted into a commission of privilege toinsult an who come within their reach.This is, it is true, occasionallyseensoftened downand cooled by the proud indignant spirit of theFrench peasant, who perhaps may in his clay have carried a firelock,and has no reli'3h for their insolence.Considerable power is certainlygiven this corps by the regulations or ordonnance over those who committhemselves into th~ir hands; but this power, wherewith they are soendowed, they considerably overstep. '1'0 set this very ordonnance atdefiance, .to exchange their horses contrary to its regulations,' or theconsent oftravellers,to revile and abuse, nay even to exercise their tremendousthongs over the shoulders of a Croix de St. Louis, are outragestoo demonstrable to be doubted of; and if so, what hasa strangerin the country to hope? save to extricate himself out of their hands asspeedily as circumstances will permit.Rheims.-The celebrated cathedral of this city is an important objectto those scrutinizers into architecture who- have truetaste to admirethat delightful branch of it to whi~h our Anglo-Norman ancestorshavethe best claim for the. invention, Of at least adoption; for controversy.shall be .kept c1car of, ontbis subject.Chalons~-U pon the Mélrne, a river respectable by its length of'course: thé traveUer,'proceeding upby its bank, reaches.St.. Dizier,.andlat ils headLangres*.-Hellce a pelcson traversjng a summit level of France, de- ­corated wilh more woodland than first impressions would lead him to'i* Thç little..river Aire runs by this bold hill.On itisthe post-house at Bac sur d' Aire•.

14 TiRAVELS IN EUROPE.expect, covering tracts of bold uneven heights, which in ,no countrywouId be considered mountains, he thus comes to the headthe SOANE, the current whereof flows in the opposite direction, towardsthe Mediterranean, and descending southwardsbythe rcourseof~thisrh'l'er, halting at the respectable townsof CHALO'NSand MACON, heproceeds to LYONS, seated at the confluence of the sisterstreams.LYONS.--This is a place where manufac,ture has obtaineda more,permanent fqoting than anywhere in :France ;nor is œt'to ,be wOD"deredatrconsidering how admirably it issituated forwater..carriagein,threedirecti

deti.an;c;e.of li~~~pn and sensation, of GOlUpeHing the unfortunateinmatesof a. town, when once it has beenenvironed iudingymasonry under thename of ramparts, to immure them,sclves (a foretaste of the horrors ofmonkislJ. execqtions), at the most delightflll period of the twenty.fourhours in. the country, and iuthis clin,1ate especially, sun-set, was, is,andJ>~Qbably wiUlong continue the'law here. The whole population of thecity waS on a holiday in these channing meadows, enjoying the freshtlessof theevening after a ~lUltry summer's day, when the enormity ofthe crowd st.ruck the speculative mind of the unfortunate seIjeant ofthe guard at the town-gate, and time andall things seeming to him toÇ1.0Plbine ~or 1:1:i& purpose, the ~nost fatal and affiictiug project was withprecipit~tiefore ,the shU'tting of the.gates, togive notice to the people' outhe. outside to return*. To earn a few livres for himself, fromsuchas should he too late, tbis unfortunate man rang the signal a quarterof an hour before the time. AlI he saw' in the consequences of theaction :waS a few loiterers to extort upon; this was the whole front ofhis offending, so far as the malus a~ûmus extended, but far differentwere the results. The 1ll;ultitude .c.rowded aU al once to the gate anddraw~bfi

16 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.the event may have been the cause of this custom ceasing; but as itthrows light upon the sy~tem of French jurisprudence, it is somewhatpertinent to the views of him who goes abroad in quest ofinformation.Perhaps too it may be difficult to say what ought to be done totheauthor of such a catastrophe. Any one who has ever so little advertedto French legislative proceedings, will have no scruple to conclude thatthey decided wrong.The wretch was broken alive on the wheel withhorrid torments, as if the evil could in any degree he mollified by hissufferings, or as if the criple required a· formidable example to be infiictedas a warning to prevent its repetition.Fuel, tllat desideratum in the Horth of France, where the rousing of ahand~ullof embers into glow every half hour by a blaze of brush~wood,cannot be sustained through the twelve hours at a less expense than offive or six livres, is here both in plenty and conveniently at hand. Whatan Englishman deeros, very justly, cOlllfort, the honses, the windows,and indeed the habits of the French, (for shu'tting of doors is a practicelittle known here) aH militate against; and throw the comparative balanceofa winter sojournrnentconsiderably on the other side.In regard to woodlands, a considerable proportion whereof is seen onthe left of the l'oad to, and south of LYONS, although this importantbranch of statistics does not hereappear to have occupied the nationalmind duly, and aIl is public property; some things in their system arevery weB worthy of adverting to, and principally amongst them that ofbarking the bulky timber for the navy while standing, the branches ormain head being left on.Il thus remains for some years, and requiresits seasoning in a manner which isso different from the ordinary procedure,and so superior, that its advantages upon the timber cannot butbe important.' In fact it be~omesso hard that the axe seems hardlyable to bite into the white coat or sap-wood. It is weIl know~ that a

STATE OF AGRICULTURE IN FRANCE. 17Britisbship isahvays outsailed by a French one, nay, that one blIi1tupon a FrÇcftch model in our docks is still outsailed by the other. Maynot tbis. hitherto unaccountable circumstance he thus explained? Verysufficient judgment appears in the due distance at which their standardtrees are leift; but so much herein depends on exposure, prevalent winds.and climate, thatno criterioncan be formed equally adapted to aU.To revert to the situation of this town, it iis perhaps unique in point ofselection.lts connexion with Switzerland, and even with Lower Germany,with the Mediterranean, with the vineyards and silk groves of theSo.uth and corn-tracts of the North, with the fertile pastures immediatelyàdjoining it, forms a combination of advantages hardly elsewheretohemet·.witb.-Whatmight it not be?these part~,On the state of agriculture inof which a tolerable estimate may be formed hy the timethat the tra,rel1er reaches Lyons, and which the route here laid outenables him to survey, under every disadvantage which exists in it, hemay now combine, and indeed close his observations, for what remainsof thejourney.His verypla~nthat the progress of improvement in France i8checked, in every point save literature, by something.What tl1atsomething is, lies far heyond the eye of a cursory observer, though probablynot oneever existed who did not flatter himself he had discoveredit,and sorne indeed have communicatcd their exultations to the world inhaving done sO. Be thi8 a8it ma)', certainly it continues asyet unrecti.fied.The clergy, the land proprietors, the king's mistresses, have ailcome in for their shares of inculpation.A stranger has no right to bevery sanguine in his hopes of ducidation on this point; for althouO'h o _ apeople feel the ~rievance, it by no means fûllows that the)' see it. Hemust therefotehecontented with chiefly ministering unto himself.a mischief to he of such extensi"e operation, it must be political.DForThe

18 . TRAVELS IN EUROPE.statesman may exclaim, like Pharaoh of old, " Ye are idle ! yeare idle!"but the radicalfault is, where it neverwill be acknowledged, in him.Œconomics, Statistics, aIl bow unde'r the pressure of political evi!.Agriculture is the basis of nationalaggrandizement; :any other, naval,manufacturing, or mercantile, is fallacious. It was lntended that merlshould live by each other; not by plunder, but in association: by theearnings deduced from supplying reciprocal wants, the balance of demands,to the common benefit of the whole. Associal·lifeadcvanoosthese wants multiply, pari paSSit, through aIl their gradations acquired,fanciful, and capricious, but aU calling as loudly for gratification as themost early wants of nature, disbl1rsing, and thus,inadvertently, compensatingand inviting industry. How erroneously then do thosereasonor calculate, who would infer that the world can be over-peopled!With the immutahle decree that man should labour, cornes the benevolentdispensation that heneed not ,vante Ifdebarred from the former,or subject to the latter, it is a proof that a/ fault exists somewhere,andwhere i3 it so likely to be lodged as in the heacls of mankincl*?A check to the operaHve powers of man is obvious throughoutthisgreat country. Statistics and Œconomics are notwithstanding favouritesubjects of reflection here,as is wellknown to aU conversant withFrench literatlire ; and copious extracts from their Encyclopœdias and}\1aisons Rustiques might be appropriately transcribed, the insertionwhereof wouId make a most respectable book. This ambition, however,powerful as it may be deemed, shaH flot stirnulate the invasion orplunder of these massive compilations.lit In faet, ifthe hearts of mankind were as bad as their. heads, the.. w;hole race would have beenextinet long ago. But time is merely wasted where one reasons to bring men's actions to a law ofconsistency, with whieh law they are ever at variance.

ŒCONOMIC$ ANH S!fATIS!fICS. 191"'be.. êt\re, if by the knowledge of the disease they were half way, in'the comIl1only accepted idea of it, hy no means follows.And yet thelualady is by no means incurable, for the stamina vittE are possessed bythe patient in uncommon energy.The first light .thrown upon this interestingsnbjectto. an English eye isfurnished in the details su ppliedtn the.fou:rthvolumeofthe TravelsofMr. Marshall, whoever he was, forthis does not appear to have been.ever, duly ascertained; anù a veryparticular circumstance it is, that this said fourth volume, containingsnch satisfactory and compendious notices, has disappeared from circulatitinin England.Thegeneralopinion of this and of former days th,ere, is, and has been,thatigross.inegleet of their true interests, apathy to the claims of humannature Lill:gelllterwl,andcontempt for commonalty, swayed the minds ofthe greatof thiscountry.Nothing can he further from the truth.The people of the higher classes, the land proprietors of France, \Vereendo~ed withthe best~ the most benevolent intentions. They occasionaUyvisited theirestates, habit and political ties and restrictions pre-. .vented. tlieirdoiagany more, (this was the goverllment system); theyfiattered thetnselves tnat when there, they were making every onear0 1 tlnd them happy.When the peasant sought the e1imax of familyaDlbili{)n, tolaunch his son in a splendid livery iuto the rotten luxul'J(i)fParis; it was t0 his seigneur, as his natural protector, that he presentedhim for thepul'pose; 'rhe young:French nobleman was always gratifiedby, and acknowledged with kindness, the entryof a vassal's SOIl into hisregiment, and when the nobility visited their estates it was ~~ pom' fairedu bien." Such were the dailyincideIDts whichpresented themse)veseven to the cursory eye of the stranger.The subversion of the upper classescaul;ès which did not depend on them.D 2in latter days resulted tromlVlankind view things arO!lElIld

20 TRA VELS IN BUROPE.them with different optics, according to their situations. These illfatedpeople were in a complete delusion. Theil' habits of life debarredthem from a correct view of the truth, from reflecting sufficientlyon what presented itself, f;om drawingany Just conclusion from thewhole. Perhaps such impressions are more extensive thùn knowIl.With their eyes directed merely to the court for nineteen-twentieths oftheir lives, with ha~its acquired solely in a luxurious capital, nay, eventhe admirable refinement of their manners, aH contributed to renderthem pervious to the least shock of 1ife. Then their revenues werebare1y c01npetent tO sustain each at that utmost stretch of expenditureto which and for which the spirit of aristocracy will strain every nerve,and sacrifice every consideration. U nder these circumstances, whichconstituted the soul of the state, how could they look toobscQre causesor remote efiècts? guard against or remedy them? It i8 expenditure(according as itis judicious or not) which creates influence. As to thel'astic department of the state, nothing could be a stronger specimen ofwretchedness than the whole metairie system. But poverty grows outof poverty. What Illore crushing to an alreadyheart-broken landholderthan the corvée? Seignorial claims, confided to callous arbitraryagents, duties ilI}posed ignorantly and selfisilly on men whose utmostlabours could only enable them to prolong life to themselvesand theirfamilies! Capital could neither be formed, nor vested in agriculture;Ilot even the pauper's capital-the sweatof bis brows 1 Such details(ire oftener. told than listened to. The result has subsequently ·madeitselt' heard in a voice of thunder. The splendoul' of the court operatedno doubt as a heavy drain uponan incompetent country: but neither\Vas this, as some are used to say, d1e radical of the evil; it was nomore than whata thriving state, that i5, in oth~r words, one governedupona good system,.could hav.e borne. The chprch establishment here,

BENEVOLENCE OP THE CLERGY. 21too., bas beenan object whereon to heap condemnation. Itwas certainlyheavy, but thëinjustice whiçh criminates it is much more 50. Certainit is that the very best specimens of agriculture, which l'rance présented,were atforded in the church lands, (oot that it is pretendedtosay that good agriculture aJone, like charity, will cover a multitude ofsins,) by theoc.cupation andmanagcmel}t of tbose very people, againstwhom al this period (t.784) the charge, a very diffuse onc, in every layman'smonth, is, " qu'ils ne sont bons à rien," the usuai prelude to acrimination upon what constitutes a point of merit to every fair-judgingmind-the flourishing appearances around them. Theil' establishmentshere supply the most important caUs of human nature, and very thanklessha'S beenthe recompense, as has heen since too strongly seen.Theil' laboratories are the apothecaries' shops of the rustic community,lvith the difference in the}r favour, that the profits of the trade are notdemanded. The pOOl' receive eleemosynary relief at their gates, thesick are attended at home. AlI this comes before our eyes. That suchestablishments are requisitefor thé community at large, in the presentstage of the world's growth, is by no means asserted; but still furtheroff be theiojustice of denying them any merit ! Be their fate what itmay, the behaviolill' of the laity here to the clergy in the pl'esent day isvery disgusting to observation. Infact, the wrerched fathers are nowhuuted from aIl gelleral society, and whither are the unforttmate men tobètake themselves? Are they to recul' to first principles, and betakethemse1ves to ÜtlC forests and deserts ? Certainly th6l'e is no footing,for them in social life. Theirsituation 18 not now, perbap8 it neverwas, a matter of optidn; if it were, the,ribaldry wherewith they are,wherever they show themselves, assailed by the laity would, one cannotbut suppose, pr.eclude qll hesi~tion on their parts in (to borrow an expressionfrom our great Elizabeth) unfl'ocking themselves. Indeed they

TRAVE,LS' IN EUROPE.evidently feel that they are hors d'odeur de sainteté, and either shnnsociety, Of, the worst of them,give into the profligaeJ of the laity.One great deficiency certainly exists in the statisticalrelations ofFrance, and, in contradistin~tioüwith the N etherIands~where watercarriage; thab first of internalaccornmodations, abonnds; and this iscross communication, and conveyance in general.Badness of roads,wretchedness of vehic1es, and weakness of cattle, constitutea heavy deficiency.It i8 evident throughout, that whatever capitaliFrance pros·geSSeS is vested intrade, and perhaps principally internaI commerce ; butin any case the effects are equally deleterious whereagriculture has notptcceded in laying à foundation for the superstructure. Great stateempirics have adopted each his opposite mode of treatment, and theworst carried the triumph.One maintained theside ofthe plough. theother that of the sail; but while they discussed the patient sank.fact, no great· national impulse could be givèn or reeeived .. ih ~itherdirection. Thus, among thern, l~rance i8, as we noW seè it, denudedànddepopulating~in penury, languidand feeble in war, and e\'en incapa.ble of rallying in time of peace.InThe tract lIere unrler consideration isprohably the w'orst specimen that this great country affords.itcertainly has many stages to proceed through in order lo àttain improvemcnt.Population, system, industry, capital, and sècurityinalltheir powerful combimltions, wiU be unavailing withoutthe fdsteringbànd of time.About Lyons, inded, the cattle appear better; but thisis ratber due to the soil tban any arnelioration in the breed and ini'·provement, which the :French landholder is by no means competent to.It is usual here to proceed southwards by water. ~t is by no meansthe best mode for seeing the country; but the conveniences which itpresents here are ndt to bê rejected; and wh,ile we glide clown thestream, the progress appears l1;ttheradoze than a journey.

TABLES n'HO'FE.$romChalpns b.ither there is a regular passage~bQatcompiodation.with every ac,:ThetraveUer who feels an interestin observing mannersmayindeed here gratify it. To any other itis but adulLprocedure.A private boat"which will carry a carriage !andsix passenger8convenienHy,macU!nedbytwo boatnlen, may be had here on: very moderateteNus, tG descend to ,Awignon.· The hoatsnever remount the stream,.b'Utare sold in the south, where timber i8 of value, Jo a profit.Quitting LYONS, the only opportunity the voyage affords of settingfoot on shore is at Viviers;antl if any objects worthy of inquiry aretoere e'xtant, the !ateness of arrivaI in the evening, and theanxiety oftineboatmento he away in the 'llorning, debar aU effort at investig~tion,or at least beyond so much of itas relates to supperandbed. Theeveningcongressatoneof these grand central points, a table d'hÔte,isvery amusing,-at least while it has novelty torecommend it..Indeed,it may possess this quality in a permanent degree; for here areusually sorne personages who, by the completemanner in which theyappear tobe athome at the table, and occupying, according to privilege,the high places, a matter of sorne little consequence whe1'e, iftbere is uodistinction admitted as to who is best served, it is not immÇtterial.tobe.first served.2·Persons, however, of the above descriptionhave herethe gr.atification ofseeing, every.evening, 1;11 their meal, a h081of ne'\v faces around the01; and po.ssess a good opportunity.to becomedtizensofthe world. As to the mode of conveyance, as the weather .had not yet, by..the progrêss of the heat, nQtwithstanding the advanceto the southwÇtI'd, become.sultry,. and the boathaving a good awning;between that accommodation and what.the chaise afforded, the partyWÇt8 very agreeably lodged during the day.But, accommodation andpleasing prospects out of the question, for every other purpose of travelling,aU seem to have selected this mode of accommodation as a penna-

TRAYELS IN EUROPE.nent substitute fordomestic menage; the poste aux ilnes,upf conveyance.

VINEYARD OFL--UERMITAGE.t,lrel.atmrfaUss)x;ort of tillage in sound profit. Our hoatmen afford us,[)OW a specill1en of what the effects to he expected are ;every exertioncompensated bya pull at the hottle! and itsc

of; the two medical! men, of whorn one enfofced,~and the otheiforbâ:d thetaking of coffee, cach according to his own usage in regard to it, willbe apt to recur.to recoll

THEatre ,;st1bHPPY, tbat: itpossesses 'withln itsèlrprocll1cts tb.tisfy aH tbe W&l1ts of·m'an ; ~sofar Rs,tbcy are tobe calcttlated.TARASCON, in whichsudi atsare CUrIol1S ontRe subject rnay see annu...ully performed in the principal chtlrch a strange ceremony, considetablyresembling ourWantley heroics, tbesla,ying the Tarasco; a fOflllid

T'RAVELS IN" EUROPE.less issaid the better.The traveller's notice should, however" be particularlycalled to the Tour-Magne; because itis supposed, and tllCpeculiarity in the architecturejustities the inference,that this structurehas an origin distinctfrom the others. . cBook-lllaking travellefs wiUfinda tolerably diffqse description of these things pu blished here collectively,and sulCl in every shop; where they may increase the soliddimensions of their work muchmore appropriateJy than (though thi8 i5not vouched for) by recurring to auy Encydopredia.MOlltpeJier is a name familiar to everyEnglish ear. The elimate isnotedly salubrious. The situation, however, has notbing in it to impresssuch an idea. Probably much ofthis general quality dependslonthe temperatuJ:'e of the dimate, as. it is situated very little above thesea-level. Salt marshes and briny lakes extend along tbe.coasts of thelVlediterranean in the vicinity, impregnating the wnoleatmosphere withtheir particles; as is strongly perceived by the taste.· upon the. lips atmid-day, when the exhalationfrom them,as well as from the sea itself,18 strong. This particularSmollett has noticed.The rural managemcnt of the vicinity i8 divided I:>etween the vinéyard,producing a.heady deep-coloured wine, and pasturage; that lS tosay, the tending a herd ofgoats and an equal number ofsheep, with afew.cows of stunted gro~th, scattered through them on theheath. Asto the vast tràctshere in the south, now of noadvantage to thedaims of man or beast; they could be only rendered productive by anational exertion. 'Vhat rational pretext can a llatipn have for entering*uponforeign wars, that has ample business for a century to come,to do at home? \Vith the landes of the south, the dunes of the north,the sterile uplands of the interior 4pon her hanfds, to extort an un'wilIiogcrop from, by th'e sweat of the brow?The government of this country has, at vàrious tÎlnes, had magni.

THE TWO ORDEltS OP PENITEN5.'~~Iltcpians06 in,ternal navigation, the (')nly national itnprovement ade;.quate to the grand scale in contemplation; but little has resulted fromthem to this day.The éclat of a paltry conquest is a more vivid gratificationto the human mind than the fertilizing a province. ' The turuingthe tloods of the Alps, upon these barren levels would introduèepopulation,whichever fonowswaler"c~rriage;and, 1Vhere hands weretobe found, agticulture, without which dry wastes are'Dot be redeemed,:êould be put in practice.At this present period, there being little to engage puhlic attention,.and time probably hanging heavy on hand, the two divisions of peniteDtsbere,pénite1ls blancs and noirs, had commenced a bellum interne...·ci-aum ;.a.nd employed the wartn days of summer in bestowing on eachothers backs,that discipline which, by the fuIes of their order, eachindividual is bound to intlict upon his own.Pénitens, it may be necéssaryto inform sorne readers, for the simple term i8 not \:ery accuratelyapplicable, or consequently descriptive" are persons. who, inreligious processions and some other ceremonies, go disguised in longgarmentsand highconical caps, which mask the face, the eyes only appearing;the,., moreover, onrequisite occasions, carry lighted tapers intheirhanàs, and perform.various duties of similar import.They aredivided iuto orders,which are distinguished by colours; a convenientmode Oflllllpplying mankind with something 10 quarrel about, whereihere exists nothing tô conlend 60r. Whatever was the irnportant causeof the present,warfare, ~ertain it is th~t,in the prosecution of it, thesemaskers laidasideaU disguise, ,and exhibited themsçIves in their truecolours; andif they dia nc::>timpart to tlle tc::>wn that vivacity it wants,theyso far.succeeded as to disturb its siumbers.When flagellation was in fashion in the world (where it at present'S~sratheron the decline), it was the custom for loyers ta avail tbem"..

30 TttAVELs IN EUROPE.selves of a procéssion of the kind 'herementioned, to bestowan ade...qtiate number of lashes on themselves in honour of their mistresses.But the lady, llloreprovident'thall Hudibras"s widow, or her prototypeDulcinea deI Toboso, took dire to stàndat her 'balcony tosee them in..fticted herself. The pink of gâllantry waS when the,·lôver succeeded in.besprinkling his fair one with his bJood ; and very ingenious modes ofincreasing the intensity of the operation of the taws were resorted toaccordingly. 'rbis order, if it aspire to thedenomination, appears,likemonachism, to have crept into the Christian church from Egypt, thatgreat hot-hed of superstition. However, the mutatis mltfa~ldis procerIure must he adopted here to a considerable extent.The reHgiousprinciple, innate in buman nature and run wild in Egypt, produced inthat gloomy people, under the modification of bigotry, ,seclusion andpenance.Here, in the hot heads of the South ofPrance, if assumesthat of enthusiasm; from this, no wonder ifit degenerat~sintofanati..cism, for there is but a step to go.Hence, in their day, the dreadfultransactions of Toulouse, wherefrom Voltaire derives the debt of gr~ti..tude his country owes him-" 0 si sic omnia /" The principle gfdis'8ent,or Spil'it of contrariety, or whatever denomination may hegiven to it,was of course equally tenacious in its hold and vigorous. in its growthhere.The warfare in support of orthodoxy, in this tract of bis domi..nions, cost Louis XIV. what he could ill spare,-many thousands of hishest troops.U nder a commander of great eminence theycould effect,.litne in a midnight warfare againstCami:sards, eachof' whom carriedwithin his own breast his 'connsel and principle of action, standing tohim in the stead of chiefs and supplies.These insurgents had gottencomplete possession of the open country, confining the other populationwithin the walls of the cities, between which the comlllunication cooldonly he carried on by caravarrs and escort.'\'; and this too at a time

ROUTE FROM M(:\':);NlfPELIERTO 'fllE PYRENEES.31whenLollls:KIV. was at. what he was pleased to term.Jhe height of hisglory! This part of France appearsJ)tlver to have recovered the effectsofa political sore.-always longin cicatrizing,__allexpatriation.The public work. called the HIItou. of this town has an interest,in so far asthecut'stoneused init. aJ)and~stouefunof marine exuvire,chieftyifllot entirely cocldeif"'shens~sjhowswhat theintflrior of the earthis here composed of. This fiat tract. down. to/the snore.sof the Mediterranean,l'rom its low level, warmth of c1imate, and exemption frornthe intrusion of humanindustry, should present a rich, and, it is probab)c,little explored harvest to the botanist; but to the geologist its pro..mlsesare h"t very s.canty. Botany seems as. rouch the national predilecjtion··{lfthe:Freneh,as the last-mentioned science is of the Germans.Each i8 good in ilS Way, but perhaps they are not perfectly compatible;at least the sameindividualcould;not do justice to/both , p.UJ.rsuits. Thelatter requires a bold seope of thought, such as is possessed by thenation whieh has gonedeepest into it, (throwing. a cloud of mystery aHaround,) while the former caUs, on the eOlltrary, for the minutest in­,restigatious. Ibis hard, when the mind is im pressedwith those extensivespeell!ations, to whic11 geological studies (in the .great book ofNature) lead, to brin.g it to-bend to the minutil'e of botany ; yet it is butjusttosay,.tbatthe slores. ()ftheJatter are of more immediate importaÎl.cètcrhuman

i'AVELS IN EUROPE.remarkably pure, present themselves to the traveller's observation aUaround.The goat is the main dependence for the menage, t() the communityin general: and the pigeon-house is probably the chief prop of .thechateau; for the privilege of this species of domestic stock is mosttenaciously maintained here; perhaps chiefly on account of the manure,-avaluable article for the vineyard. Diminutive as this speciesof stock may strike us to be, ,it is not insignificant whenwe consider ithere; when we recollect that it takes aIl the .trouble of maintenance, aserious task, u po~ itself; and that this is effected at the cost of theneighbourhood.Taking aU this into consideration, the pigeoJ}-house isno trifling oJ:>ject, as indeed the 5t3.te of the larder at the inn sufficient1,proves.NARBONNE is celebrated for its honey ; the insect which produces it5eems to be the only thing useful to man, capable of derivinga\l e~ist-;ence from the vegetation of its neighbourhood.Must therc not havebeen sOIlle great change here in climate, and soil too, so far as vegetationis concerned, since the days of the Romans?Would any peopleDOW bestow so much time, cost, and trouble, as they didhere, conlputin~upon so pOOl' a return as what we now see ?Due time is given to thetraveller to e"xplore in what direction histaste leads him, because, as posting is not in pl'actice on this route,. he{nust hire a voiturier to conveyhim through his journey.· He is herebyoccasionalJy obliged to pass sorne of the ~oursof his day at an ion f)finferior accommodations; but this mode is undoubtedly prefe~ble fortllC main views of travelling.He may arrange and seUle with hisvoiturier for aU, at the end of the journey, anù thusget l'id .. of thatdrawback on the pleasures of travelling,-the necessity ofwraD;g\ingtwice a day.

NARBONNE.~33'.valls ofthis towllexenipHfy'to i us whât we havedsewhere seert ;pictuTes of, --thew'orld turned u pside down.buiItof thedehrisof RmuanantiqlIity.~ountablerrheyareRèlievos, monldings, un'ac­specimens ofO1'né'lmèntâJ seul pttlre, are, if the expression nlayhe hazarcied,t'allged .herein ,ôonfuslon; for they cou Id hardly havebeensoconÎîtltetel~;rfltSpUlfced; had i nnt1 àpaîhs ii.beetltakeh '. to that·· effét't.He.rea trirei'nê keei upwards' ptesentsitself;hardby]sa legionatysentine! standing upon his head, while the tb'wer he guards is prostratefrom its base.A series of these and simiJar objects, aH in unconnected.\'tiieillœty;come utlder theieyein the circuit of these bulwarks or ramcônstruetièn'ofwhich,although the military architect maybeioneàof;highhame, theprôofs of his scieïiée are by nO means suffi~cient to cOtlnpensatefèr his want of taste.He had an opportunity ofdisposingtheséinterl'lsttFÎgretBâ'înis to an exceIIetlteffect, and whereprôbably they :wouldhave heenlongsecure; for France does not âpi_l'>ear,by iwhatwe can judge, to apprehend an àttack on this part of herf~I'OnÜerS~àFâll1Ilyrartangements; 1t lstobepresumed, have put aH such appreh'éllsionsto 'sleep.How fortunate for mankind, wllen such extensivelyhappy résaltscan be effectuatedso easily!Certainly very Iittlehaspôwers of résIstânce in thls place since the days ofâ.ndthàttittle i8 of the ohl;school; ramparts htgh out ofâlldueproportion, but inconformitywith'the defective principle Solongc1lIng tobyenginéets.Uanguor, apathy; ândirdésti.tûtiùn seem toMtvé fixed their rergn IIIthe streets of thistown,s'nfâ'r'a,s t()itsr~gtiJàtinmates.But Frenchvivâdty is nottobecompletèly tepressed by idlcIless, by inanition, or'11 sôlstitiaJ sun. Were it so, the presentèxample of it would havebeenlostj a vegiment ofinfantry (certainly the chief nùmerical part of one)1:'

TRAYELS IN EUROPE.dancing, hand-in-hand, threading the needle, and singing d'accord andà gorge déployéea gay Limousin air', interrupted only by peals oflaughter, from one end tothe other of its,·· in other respects, lifelessstreets. A pleasing, because simple, lllU&icis. epideinic throughoutthese countries.Itconsists but of a few notes, between plaintive andgay, or rather a mixture of both, in very limited range; a\ld speaking atonce to the heart, conveys itself through the populatioa, ,male andfemale, young and old, faster than an exptesscot!il.d trRivel; at least inthese regions.ln regard to the French soldiery, 110twithstanding the minute and justobservatIons in the Encydopredias, evidently written by military menwho felt for the cruel sit,uationof their brethrenunder arms, ofthe misel'ablestate inte which the armyhad lapsedin regard to t,he primaryarticle of life,-food; matters are gro·.:wiaginthis respectworse andworse. Perhaps, indeed, thestate isu.nable t'O atfordthe

LITERARY TURN"

36 TRAVELS IN ·EUROPE.is conscious ofbeihg marked as a schismatic from the established re;..Iigion of the state.As to their military business, the Frenchtfoopsoarryit on withontmuch bllstle,-a proof thatthey havesomesystelbT thoughiprobablythey are in this respect far short of the Germans. Their officers, ifiguo;..rant, are anxious to Iearn. Not including in this observation those fiut...tering insects of fashion, whose sole object is to be able to taik at theopera of their campaignin America,............aJ~eward .• of vanityearned bytwo irksome trajets of the A t1antic, for ouemonthpassed on shorebe~yond h. A great deai of cordialftyx>pre\'ails between the officer,non:.commissioned officer, and soldier; and yet the inferior i8 never seentoexceed the limits of due respect_ It is curious to observe the warin yetpolite and ceremonious greetings which pass on aBsides when a privateman retums from his furIollgh. The Swiss troops. in this service, and par-'ticularly the regiment of Steiner 110W heve, have a remarkablymUitary;air, and, odd to think, seem to be lookedup to with a dègree of defe...rence throughout the French army.Thiscorps was, as is weIl known,introduced here by the Iow cabinet policy of governingthe natien bythe bayonet.: and for this the prideof foreigners was to begratified bya higherpay.. The French cavairy is' kept, for the conveniencyofforage, in the northem provinces..PERPI,GNAN.--:.The weather is now in these flat tr~cts powerfuIlysultry. 1ts oppressiveness on the road, isWhat the traveller is bountito expect. The inn8 here are few and ïncommvdious, affordingcomfort when they areattained. As for animal food, it hardIyformsan item in their Iarders. As mu'ch of it as is to be wished fol' in snchweather is, however, found at mid.day at the table d'hôte, and thehouse will hardIy affûTd a second supply durin,g the twenty;..fourhours. Punctuality, therefore, is a duty which the traveHer owes

ROMANTICSC~(Nl!1RY OP THEP'YRENEES. S7tOj..hi·ms~l:f. f~enee,Jittle comfol't results tocompensate the tredium ofa journey cl'èpt through at the rate of twenty..five· miles a day.This is the season. for fruit,hut every species here is dwindled iQ.growth and depraved in flavour;such indeed as would hardIy be ad..mitted UPOB' ai :w'hool-barrow in 'the streetsof London.This place,whetl1'erowingc}l'nottoits heingafrantier tmivnr is défective ingood police which pervadesFrance in general.thatA tumult eaused thenecessity of recurrence to the support of authority, but the mob carriedtheday.The commonalty had 1110ra] justice, commiseration, on theirside to vind:ieat:c their interference at first starting in the busines,;; but,lik.e.;al:I,:ulOb.s;,contcived toget themse]ves completely wrongbefore theyha:d"adv...ncedfi:vestfrPS in it,Itwas an. odd procédure to take placeilla garriSOll.town, and, itrnight be~ said,under the eye of theresidentga:vernor.uncomfortablylodged.Thètowu lS vef'Y thiekly inhabit:ed, and tl:1e inhabitants veryThe residence of the chief personage of thetQcwn was One far inferior to what would be expected for his situation,nat onlyin office butamongst the nobilityof the country. '1'0 quitLanguedocatMidsummer, and with such a prospect as the Pyreneeshetore tbetraveller,it.canweH be supposed must afford him no matterof regre~;an,d this night bri!Jgs him toa conntry and people where aHis!!new to him~...,.....June 1784.PYRENEEs........The romantic scenery of thePyrenees, the invigoratingcoolatmos'phere,thenow nO)Qnger (nonotonons,8ky,~butdiversifiedl1y tbe 'Pleasing transitions ôfsun-gleams, shades and douds; the varyiogtintsof the tr~esand shrub~upderthen:lOuntainbreezes, and coolrefreshing showers; alltogetbêr form· atl'ansition toc> de]~ghtful to' beimagined :-i~must be experienced.'l'he ravitle~ofthese 1110untains are very abrupt, having the appearanceof heing more the effect of atmospherical diluviation than of the

38 TR.A:VELS IN EUROPE.primary disorganization of nature.rrheir summit Ievel must be

THE FORT OF: BELLEGA.RDE. 39SiUnlitllit.;!leMel~+i.al7~granitic. ln li tholQgy the principle. of .. modification.pefMades the mass; the Siame rule governs, be the magnitude or dimillUtiQllof its parts what they may.Bence an Qbserving eye can ascer:­tain, by the outlines of mountains, of what ingredients, granite, hornsitone,ors.c.hist'i,the.y are COlll,posed. Granite in its exterior adheres toitspalfent quartz. Bu6011 has,loo.keclintonatnre not with a technicalbut a scientific eye >t-. The glohe, asat. present coristituted, is composedoftwo main and radically distinct substances, quartz and marinedeposit. Such, at least, constitute the ma~s. Other various matters, as~.portant tOLhis creatures~ are ,the beneficent donation of Providence,e~hancing.thenumericalaccountthough they add but little to the specificbulk.This chainoft»ountainsdift;ers l'rom the Alps in being pervious innum~rous places. But, notwithstandingpoliticshaye presented thern:­selves in aid of nature here to facilitate and generalize communicationbetween these two g.reat nations, itseems to remain still nearly instatu, quo.The etymologies of the names prove to us 'that the ancient geographerswere acquainted with ihis chain ofmountains, and that theytoade" such features their study.IIlcleed this was .the principal handIetopography presented to their· grasp, and they avaiJed themselvesaccordingly.ltiscurious to ob~erve how they connected this ideawithpersonification. Geography was withthem one ulliversai allegory.At this entrancejnto Spain the road is scieIltifically .laid out, and ispreserved in excellentofcier.The :Fort of BeUega.rde, a bicoque, on an~ What business has mysticislIl in scienee ~ in a science too where aught beyond principles andoenniti9Ps is an ineumbrance.

40 TltAVELSIN EtUtOPE.insulated mountaio west of the road, and separated from it 'by~p~c!pitous ravine, ··commands .the pass: but·· the l'nad is· notenfiladetrby it.A·few hQurs ascent opénsCatalnnia ta ,the" view. ,Here"oa,t.!ûrei,..incontrast with the apathy or despmldency ·bf hercountenance on,tneother side of the mountains, teems with production and ~nima~ion.The country here befQre the traveHer f>resents to the senses, a series andvariety Qf appropriate delights.~hehunlanraceiparticipate$ in th~affects ofthis, and all·isactivity, gaiety, and industry.Thefirst and most striking olJject on the vast horizon below andar()tmrl, i8 the ocean.It assuredly takes the lead in beauty.deep blue.The Mediterranean has a c1aim. tothat epithet.!ts sublimely placid surfaceÎsThe c10seness of itsalliance with the bold shQre!S, sürichlytinted around it, and, sun-rise !-the true mQment tosee itfrom,ti.lispoint!" Ma.tutinos spal'gens super 8lquoraPhc;ebusFregit aquis radios ;et liber nubihm alther,Et posito Boreâ, pacemque tenentibus Austris--_·---·---jacuit Mare."That such a daily scene shouldcaU up !ScuchiHlag~ryinthe lpind Qf;the poet is nO wond~r. Ours pever saw it, but in ~he mit:ld'8 eye.That, however, was sufficient for him.his favourite season, sun-rise, whenSnch is the scene he.chooses forHMorning aU in fiery red,Shining on rJlJ(lptune with, far blessing beaUls,Turns into yellow gold his salt-greenstreams."Sun-rise is the poet's hour, suu-set the painter's. 0lle.foo.p Of~ISOni(vingideas rnight induIge his fancy among tftosesdppl'iedbyithe

MEDITERRAN.RAN seENERY. 41el~gâMt,l!iiVèB'ti:vene$s:'of Grecian mytholo~Y. To imaginations, howèvê~l/on!tuélordinaryscale, the actualview, alone,of Medit:erraneansêeneI'Y, atthe rising ofthe Sun ona stimmer's morBiBg,can cOBveyànything like an adequàte impressiol1of it. Otherwise,nothiBg apprPàchesit sô'neârlyrasthe w:oI'ds "of'the/pdets~Whàt: iB digresgit>tt, :'and 'DOW-: far it':is "allowable to ':a ·,trav:eller,is' a

TRAV;E;LS .IN ·.BU;RQPE.ofa$tiUea}mscene, to sorthis maps, e.xamip,C hispenciJs,. turn over.his,portable Iibrary, undasp his note-book. Heviews the shrubs ""hiehwave around him, regretting, like Ossian, the days of fGrmérltimes; tphim Gbjects ofregretfortheopportunitiesGf ;studywhicb are no rnioI:eto present themselves,but which,if duly improved, would hav~beenanever~failing source of gratification; and he turns his eyes inwards tosee what yet remainE) for cultivation and.produet. Consolation,as.itistel'med, if duly sought for in refiection, ~s oJt~nér to he found thantbee,ontl'ary. rfhe unadept in the valuable science; of botany mayrecol­1eet that, in a general sense, climates, wherever or; however placed, ghrethe same produets in this description; and he may always he sure offinding nature in harmony with herself. The contemplation of hergreater featureswill, it is probable; speedily turn his mind to those:refJectionswhichopen the way to profounder; if n.ot more useful, investi.gati.ons; and these beingditferently founded,wiHat .once e.xcite andre'ward local examinati.on. His 1ibrary, ,bis ma.p&,hispencil, hisobservation,he they repgated, must, as they ought, ree.ur tohim andberecurred to. History, topography, the face of nature, 'her conf.ormation;e.ach in t,uruJhas a claim to OCCllPy bis attention. Such refiections willpossess his mind until put to fiight hy the sound·oftbe c41essier'sthong.But to SUtn up this dissertation, be lt observed, that the ancients,although deficientjn so,m~ny points. ofknow1edge, wherewith timeandth~chapterofaccidents have sllppliedus,had the art (an art wecertainlyby no meansexcel in) ofcondensing what they had to say into a veryportable compass. iFor the route now beforethe reader,Lucan andVirgil (the Elzevirs' of course) are the best companions for leisure orforreference; and one modern work, the traveller whointenos tovis~tLerida. will unquestionahlynot onüt, Qu~ntl;:l;sJ ulitls "(GuibeJ.:t) on the

CATALONI1\ A(:ND ITS' INltA~BITANTS.campaign of Cœsar agairlst the lieutenants of Pompey. Sucb is dlèamount:ofthe literary stock wherewith the traV'eUe'r'is tt> eBcountet the~ne:xplored scenes before him ••The vast expanse of blue above and below has not time topall on thesight, in descending the Pyrenees tô the southward, untii the abrùptand pièturosque (butinot' mountainous)scenery of thisptoviIlce (Cata­Ionia) supersedes all byits superior Înterest. 'llhe evening and theclosing of night in this country are succeeded by impressions of adifferent description. At that season, on approaching a village, the earis tirst struck with music, and the song re-echoing and retorted as if ineompetitÎon~ On approaching them still nearer,the delightful odouts sent(Jutat nightfall hy tlie teeming orchards which completely surroutldthertl'; tlieboughs heutto the earth byweightofproduce, orprôppedupby forks, as is theusual process, next strike the sense. The town orvillage, on entry, is dark: butthiscitcumstance only serves togive re·lief to the l'est ofthepicture;-...i.to the crowd, bustle, and vivacityoftheinhabitants, whosee'mtbhave b~ulished sleep from the catalogue ofthewants of nature. For in a fmv short hours, àt day'.i:.break, agaÎn aU isactivityof another kincl,.........indu8try,...-unless ft pon the intervention of agaladay,which i8 ofveryfrequentrecurrence. On thisoccasionthewholehumanwofl'd shiues out Here asflneas tinsel, silksandsatins, can nlàk!ethèm. InthèsegaudYmatèrials, witliapair of enormous silver oncklesof the most ponderous taste on his toes, and a diminutive three-cornered* See, Bot Remarques sur l'ArtideEspagne, dans 18'NouvelleEncyèlopédie, but theartieleitself. It is cornmon to aIl nations wliera literature doesllot prevail, to be readilyexcited to wrathby observations conveyed through the medium of the press: Thus the remarks of the French phi'"100opherupon Spain have obtained thàt diffusion, by the spirit of resentnient they have excitedinthe minds of the proud Castillians, impatient of reproach, which they never could have aspired to,confinedin the voluminous tomes of an Encyclopœdia, rarely looked into (save by the suspicioUi4::ritie) fôr aught so totally heterogeneous to the title and object of such a work.G2

44 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.Ia.cedhatannexed to ipart of hishead, fr'ombehin,d which dangJe~t4.eredecilla, the. village beau. turns but,colnplete.; andsuch is nea.rlyth~universal costume of the male population, up to the age of forty,uponsuchoccasions.Ou:these

INNS AND O:{)!OKlEBiYOP:;:1?HECATALONIAN5. '5Sin)ilan:îJ!'lJ'ai:~e cannot /be bestowed on: tneir:cuisine, in whichit weremucn: to, be ,. wished t'hat t'heywould take :'afew, lessons ,from: t'heirnêighbàurs on theotherside: the. Pyrenees.'Every dish hereis thevery essence ofsaifron and garbc: thepoortraveller, notyethaibituateclto these!delicate iin:gradients (for useconquers any thing), is:temptedta> exdlaim,:with· Haracê,against.tliiê latter,.+ri-nSi ,qui$,.~' '&cb>>Ifany Ollehas, comrnitted the ctimeofparricide,. lethim eatgarlic,.&c. Ho,wqv;ouldthe poet have stormed had saifron beenaddedto his mess!This otheri:ngredientis evenstillmoreheterodoxin the modern sehool of the oncesacredandœoy.al arbandduty of cookery; but when the Pyrenees areIla,sedi, lS ,lime torpndunce aH dçlicate feelings on this subject~Tihcp stralllgerhas no; optionsavehetweeniacquiescence and abstinence,for llobriberY'fanavert,the introductioll.!ofthese fatal iDgredi'entsintothe heterog.eneous mass of ranksalt:fish,amif'rice, ot.,sweets. aDdDils~'IfIle look forcomfOl!t to: a glass0f wineunder 'his affliction, a headymawkish producti:on (it can hardly becalled a fiuid), fresh froth theprescs, ispresented tohim, merely to disappoint hishopes. and Iip~;,Fruits in SUlllmer and autumfl abQund in variety andperfèction, pre·$enting a temptlIDtion 'tOi excess, whichmustbe resisted. Sucb isthéllatu,re.ofthefirstJilnpnessionwhichis madtMm the traiVeller:when!hê basero§sedthe mountains OH the Meditenranean side.ofthePenimmla; an~he 1vil1,;as;ll:e.Iàcefor.ward: isJtoapp,ear" :findd~ttle,vaûation Jonfthe ronte,as far ai ~as!t asBARcELDNA.-It i8 harcH;ynecessary to observéthat !the orrgin' and'language ofthispeopleiarenbt Spanish; theyare,LimousiiÊ}; ;,alld iOTegardfO the last':mentioned pavticular, th~ tria\\eUeJJ must, he

witb rq~son, a master-piece of art in it8 way. Not presuming tod9ubtthis, as Qcular proof i5 denied, its situation, which lS aIl that ise;xtant to judge from, 5eems to present a master..piece of folly.Theijrst: idCa thatstrikes and caUs' upih the' mind a spirit: of investigationon, thesubject i5, What couldthe system he, which produced suchathing,including aIl its relations? This leads, of course to reflection on,the politicaI state of the country, by and for which;it was constructed~Wttsit intended as a place of arms?---an Olympus, wheuce govem'"ment ,shouldhurlitsthunders overa conqueredprovince ?Thesituationpresents no corroboration of this idea, though the oId and zealousre.sistance to.the house of Burbon on the part of the Catalonians. Illightcause them to he viewed with a jealous poIiticaI eye. Allappreh@sionofdangerfrom the French side i5 compIetely put to sleep bythe accession of this family: were it otherwi5e, very different precauti9nsinlleedwouldbe requisite, and far beyond that of the construction;ofan insulated fortress. Yet,whyelse is itonthe frontier? Situ.ated asit is, itcannot failsuggesting the idea of a nidus for an invadoioillg~r.my;an advanced 'place'd'a1"rnes to secure ata11 times (assoon ast~e~,ap;dwhatwork ofhumanhands is irnpregnahleto human effort?)toits,powerful andassuming neighbour an entryinto the PeninsuJa.,8i"cd aifo}'d acover toa retreat out of if. If, so, it8 site is n:Iiost judi..ciou$. As Erenchcouneilsareknown to guide aIl, of Iater years, inthis country, can this he a specimen of Erench polie]? and if it i8,what a .clue does itafford to interHalpolitics !Figueras does not black the passof Colde Pe.rtius, hutiiteffectuany~v~rs it. In regard to thefôrtres8 system in generaI; it is to beob..served, that small ones are a paltry mode of defen:ee J ;andthose uponthisextendedandcravingscale, when'duly. ma.sked,\ do notnecessapilyreta:J;d the p)jogressof1.he\campaign; andall lmust ultimately'f

CATALONjJ1AN.t\.:eTl'VI'fY' IN MATARO.tpti' f~M pfthec'lllJltry at large. Mucb remains yet to be said, ,andthll:ght t, n the pro and contra f this same frtifying system,andits applicatiml to the defence 1' cDrmboratin f the strength.ofçmmtries. Bef@rfll taking leave f Figueras, be it observed, thatitscnstructiJl is a hŒnagepaid by eN:p.erience tthe superir forceçfthe mo:dern system f attack:~here are no menacing ramparts of ·tyemenctusaspect, but ready in their dilapidationto form themselves; intecauseways and scaling-Iadde1's. There does nt appear any thing aboüttn.e pllace frlevei and the,telescpe.a bail to take effe€t on, and it isequaBy baffiing to theLA J:J!oi._UIERA, and.GIRONA..When their muldering gate-ways~e ;entereed, they do not exhibitsigns f thrift; butit is far' otherwis0."ith MATAR" . '.This place displays Càtalonian activity in its fulleflbrt.c:ipal article .of eN:pft.The prin..here i5 the wine, which passes under thisn.ame,nlostof which is c.nsigned to the Bourdeaux market, to beth,Blie br.ewed i:Dto w.hat passes uq.der the denmination of Claret in·England, distinguishable by the blue tinge hereby communicatedtoit,fr the market f tlle Northof Europe, and, but in a less degree, forLQn:Cilon als. l'hi~ Catalonia:tl wine, w;henne.w, stains linen with a dyeeEfJl:a1to indig; but thiscQluring or.earthy admixture itsooul,oseStb~aeftlingblY,age,~apaleas,:wa,ter;its,strength diminishingat thesametiIlle. . It is, ,prod\lQe€l frmna very small, bIi;tak, and clselyclusteredgrape, wh~ch.abounds .iu.this~province; ithe.as.peats of whiah are particularly.favul"able to ,vineyaJ7ds.Such is the bunteous abundauceofthis proQuce, thatfthe :tipe. clusters are free .to .pa~sengers,at least asmuchas thetur~ipfieM:sofEnglalld,.which .theyare sometimes seene1ml1ating' in.eA.tent.The welb-grmvnhealthy and gay peasantry whieb.

48 'l'RAVELS IN EtrROPE.èuUivàOOS them, münces the plenty of fooàwhich prevails; indeedagreen-markethere is a most pleasin'g spectacle, in its;profusion, diver-.sity,and freshness. .lit is thematerial suppottofthe ,general ceconomyduring threeiparts ofthe:year.. Brltthe'snpply:of :fisb~fresh and salted,is very, plentiful.: mile sC'arcity or wantof blltcher'sl1leat is hardly feltamidst such abondance. Hen~ must bea considerable:importationofrice, and thedemand for that .necessaryarticleof life, oil, must beverygreat:withoutit thedomesticprocess sboulddj~alt.i,F'ishingandthevineyard do notapparently,here, affect the general :welfareto: i"s'detriment.BARCELONA..-:--Cultiv,atitmand ivegetatiom, in aIl their luxuriancy,J.:eigllupto the very foot of the amtiemtwalls amdrugged bulwarksofthis place, which in their.. day stood sucb a tough contest. Thepresetltg0vermment isprobably resolved not to trust the citizen,s withany thingtô.stand behind. These walls .are now no more tham:a pictu~es

CATALONrA;N' ACTIVITY AND INDUSTRY. 49~li1n1)iptetlof crimes', of course not a very numerous body under: 'Spanishpolice, are ..confined to the precincts of a fortress; and thus the 'sentenceof banishment is flilfilled, because, the intention of the law implies sucha place,-on the coast of Africa! The 10gic does not require to bescrutinized. As â fortress,be it where it'may, is still one; Montjuic issll:bstituted for Ceuta; and he who is exiledforth of the land, endureshis punishment at home. Delinquency, a garrison qualification,firstclings to the horns of the altar, and the churches are more numerously,and quite as respectably oeeupied in this way as the citadels.Here,Àowever, they appeared to constitute the most numerous part of thegarrïs9n, '\vhieh of course is very smaIl; and aIl this coneurs with whatisreported.of theunwholesomeness of the casemates wherein the troopsof differentdescriptions are lodged. Catalonian energy is viewed inits full seopeat. Barcelona. Active labour is not confined under it8roofs; housesand shops arc not sufficient.rrhe narrower streets canhardly be passed through for the laborions hands engaged in their respectiv~callings.One sees in them the true spirit, the keenness ofindustry; it is in this respecta perfect ant-hill.On holidays the samepeople are in innumerabJegroupes outside the gates,-to avoid the wineduty,drinking,-.dancing, singing, and displaying aIl the gaiety of theirdisposition. Buteven the blessing of fresh air seems to begrudged asQDetoogreat for a people comvicted ,of the political crime of havingsuffer:;;:d themselves '10 be conquered, or of having been brought to subn:1Ït.Atsun-setallmust hllrry inside the g;iteS., and no paysano (Catalonian),i» .conh:adistinction with Castellallo :(Spaniard~, ispermitted to,approach the ramparts, wbichare other.wise a publicwalk, after thattime.This is in ·somedegree garrisonlaw ; but the ab~ur(hty will beat"r.epeatedanimadversion, of pervcrting the regulations of a citadel to a,community, those adaptcd to a select body to a populationat large.11

50 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.How mllst the minds of a general ma!:!s of people, thus cooped upto~gether, be affectecl by this system of manrlatol'ial privation and incùnvenienceIPerhaps the military genius of thi§ people IS dreaded.,andwith reason; why not then soothe. by employing it? The noble·.defence.of their town in the Succession war, with the archbishop, his crosierinhis hand, at their head, in the breacll; the hor1'ors they sustained in theas~auIt; and the shameful manner in which they and their interests wereabandoned by their cidevant encouragers, in the negotiations, are aU~nattersagreat deal too well known abroad, and too stronglJ felt.bythem here, to the present day; for, if they are notground clown Înto dustby the oppression of the government, it is more owing to its feeblenessthan its forbearance; to judge at least bya tolerahly certain politicalçriterion, the 'language of its creatures in the administration,such .asitis, here. A Catalonian mustnot carry a knife in bis pocket. Thos,cwho look to the smiles or participate ill t}1;e ton, .desupérioriM of thestate, studiously ohserve nevel' to apply to this, country or its peopleany term approaching to what is Spanish, and Catalan is but. a fewremoves above GALLEGO.One hint is necessary to thŒe who visit Spain.-..1t is disgraceful to heseen entering a wine,.llouse, or at any rate biens~ancerequirestha.t; whoeverdoes so should adopt the action of8tealing in, somewhat in .the style@f"\vhat is called .French leave-taking.But this preliminary expiation isaHowed to take off a considerable part of the rad~cal sin, for to be s.eensitting there is nothing.VVomen, on the. other hand, enter without hesi~tation, and sit down in coffee.;.houses, here; whereas, in England, one.wonld hardly be .forced in by a thunder shower.So different is etir'quette in different countries, and so/irreconcileable 18 it \Vith itself..The garden of the Càpucin .cOl1vent here presents ascene horribl.fCUrIons.Berceau shady walks enüJeIlished· ande111ivenedwith full

si!~clTHE INQUISITlON, AND SCYTJIIAN CU8TÛMS. 51humall figures, cast in plaster of Paris, and coloured ad viv,um toeveryappearance and stage of the plague; the physiognomical, horrorIl'lost awfully depieted in frightful precision!the subject t'nay "lcW it a11 here in safety.Such as are curious onThe Capucin order, vyingwith theillustrious hishop of Marseilles, never relinquished (and it stoodalone) lts situation or duties during that awful ~nfliction. Howhappensit, at a day when the abuses of the c1ergy are so much in exposure anddescanted on, that it should be necessary to dive fOf, in order to ferretout, the services and virtues'of that order?And who can withhold as..s,ent to such a plea of merit as this ?'l'he spirit of the Inquisition is neitherextinct nor asleep even at thisday. How should it, when the principle ofthe institution is the directreverse of that of law, i;wh'ichsays of itself, "De minimis non curat?UWhereas these are the verygame of every Îllêluisitorial institution.meritoriousness is Just proportionate as it descends into minutiœ.ItsTheofficers are distinguished here From -the clerical body in general by alittle border of light blue about the cape and cuffs; and when observedat and about the dooT of a house, hunting down, profess~d]y books, butreally literature, which must ever be odious to the inquisitorial spirit,draw fromthe military ~ent1emenhere, who have received their ideasfromthe north of the Pyrenees, and who dare by privilege speak out,a8igh, and the expression of " Quelque' pauvre homtne!" in tones of commi8eration,\vilichprove the thing to be somewhat more, evell in the.present day, tl1an a ,mere bug-hear.The Plaza de la. l\ia'î'Z, a.suburb of Harcelona, was built by aneminent Îllêm,-the Conde de la Mina. It \vas laid out according tothe improved taste of the day, whieh may be de{ined,-the process ofthe spirit of imitation w~thout judgement.n2'Videstreeti intersect each

59 'l'RAVELS IN EUROPE.ofher at right angles, and aIl is, uniform.to the eye and! scorching to the feet.,Of courseit is uninterestillgThe funeral of this noblemansupplied a:specimen ofScythianritua1.That much Scythüm blood has descended in thisPeninsula there isnodoubt. The pastoral migrators early extcnded themselves westward.Thus" Qui Mas~agetam 11l0nstras feritate parentemCornipedis-k fusa satiaris Concane venœ,"is the account given ofhiscountrymen by aSparüard (a similar custonlwe have on record nearer home in the same race); and the flatteningthe head,-a sure vestige of Japhetiandescent,-is nOW extant in thenorth of this Peninsula.Quitting this subject of the generalhistory of mankind for thepre-·sent, however, it is only necessary now to observe, that, whether théfancy ,was original· or imitativ'e, one not unworthyofthe funerakofOghuz· Kawn was:.adopted amongst the eeremoniesperformedatthat ofthis Spanish'nobleman.His six beautiful mulesdrew his hearse; theÎrveins were lanced at setting out, and the calculation was madewithsuch exactneS$ as tobring them precise!y in tim.e, irrigatingthe l'Oad asthey Pl'OCeeded with their bl~Od'! to faH deadby.exhaustion aL his,grave. His tomb is in the cathedral. The for.egoingcould certainlyhave been no part of any Christian ritual.Scythian funeral piles. wereswelled with victims in proportion to the rank of the deceased.The traveller has no cause of cornplaint on the suhject ofaccomma"';.dation at Barcelona. The hotels are kept by Italians. The exterior orsuperficies of this country promises a rich field for geology..'1< The Mdsai~ai veto ls pointed against this mQstancientcustoro.Tt isdifii...,

TRAVELLERS DE'BARREDIIERB OFI.ITERARY AlD. 53cu.lt, inâeed impossible,to get the literaryaid here ,whichthe travellersoreadily obtains in most of the other parts of Europe. The' G'ltiaForastie'J'os (Stranger's Guide), which indeed has the merit of being~l1ways at hand when called for, ,vill not lead him very far. A Spaniardwho ,visited Englandwould,retùrn·home little edified if he confined theextent ofhis inquiries within the precincts pointed out in the Red Book..And the comprehensive denomination of Guia Forastie'l'os contains no·more. It is extraordinary to observe the. taciturnity of a Spanish book..seller. ls it habituaI caution? It is not a national quality, for no onefleHvershimself .better in conversation than the Spaniard. Neither if',~t{t1suanyt'ound to belong to the trade; and ît certainly forms no part·of hs inMrest. }'rom.a 8pani,sh bookseHer the. answer to nine inquiries.outoften i8, "Niolotengo," "l,have it not;"which isconc1usiveonthe subjeet; for another wordcannot he .extortecl. It Is, however"'sufficient to know,. if there is· ahooksener~s shop, to depend on fin ding E6Tliage de Pons neatly bound. And an interesting Compagnon de VoyagehelS! '" 'Truly 1 seenot ,v.hy sleeping sbould offend." If not a sleep-.ing, Don Anthonio must be àdm~tted amost.soporiferous one. Nevenwas a work less ,calculated to give offence. This, matter is deemedwortny OF sorne .animadversion, beca:use he,re,.in eq.uipping the travellc1'",vith Don Anthonio Pous, hewould be thought astrangeunreasonab~e:­man to look for llUY thing fm:ther. But it should be known that this,authol' (he ettght to be in great favour with the critics at least) sets outwith a pions abjuration of the· suhjèct of antiquity. This does not lie:upon bis route. He pnoceedsunder a perfect na"usea OL the face o:tnature; tbis saves. many.imp,ertinentdissPftations; and as to geology~,rural œconomy, and statistics,. which lead tothose digressions so incom-·p-atible with the lawful restrictions which. the traveller must obey,-ofiÜme,. place,- and action; these \Vere totally excludep. al starting froffiJ,

54 TltAVELS IN EUROPE.hisnote-hook.It may he said that the traveller, who is able. to nnikeout his book, twelve volumes, without touching on these subjects, mustpossess rare literary powers, and no one i5 inclined to dispu~e thi8 tnerit.Let Don Anthonio Pons, therefore, reillain the author after the critic'sown heart.Almost every thing, at any rate, 18 well in its place; andhad Don Anthonio Pons travelled in Italy or Greece, his researchesinto architecture, palatial and pal'OchiaI, would have afforded usefulinformation; for not a plinth could have remainedwithoutits dinlensionsrecorded. His enumeration of the pictures of value; ho'\vever,sodiffuse~y,and, it may be said, strangely scattered, in obscure situations,throughout Spain, still gives the work value, if they open the eyesof mankind to the wonders of this art in the Spanish cabinet; for Spainis one vast magazine of these treasures.-Now to recul' to the wordgeology.The traveller is here fortunate, ifhe so think himself, whichit is to be hoped, for the diffusion of intellectual food through. themoral desert, he may ever continue to do. He has the workof DonEmanuel Bowles on this subject; one most interesting, so far as relatesboth to general ideas and local observations; which has beentranslated into French, and would be an acquisition to every language.Although the principal strides which thesuhject has taken have beenin\'ery late years; yet the correctness of this observer of nature, in hisideas, i8 most worthy of attention; and it shonld be remembered tbatthis book (and it is but on'e volume) treats of a countrylittle known.The facts it notices are most extraordinarystratifications of human bones).(such for instance as theThe autbor had every advantage, byheing in the service of government,-a circumstance which considerablyfacilitates abranch of inquiry som~what caleulated in its procedure$to excite jealousy. Nir. Bowles \Vas a native of Cork. 'Vhereeverhe, acquired his science, he posse~sed a stockQf general ideas v~ry

SPANISH HISTORIANS. 55l'are in tll~t day; .at present their impression lIlay be diffused, how...ever. coroUary they may be with the legitimate inducements whichdraw the traveller From his snug parlour al home. It does not appearhow)\lr. Bowles became known to the Spanish goverl!ment, but it wasunusually fortunate in the, selection. The lasteditions, it may be observed,leave out, and perhaps justly, thea,rticle .respecting Las Batue.cas; a district whereof lîttle being known, as its avenues are difficult,- and in consequence unfrequented, strange things were reported, and, asusual, believed in the ratio of tl~eir incredibility. He visited the people fand fmand tbem mueh like the l'est ofmankind.Tp conclude the subjeet of tbe traveller'sliterary stock,or ratherwants"as, spnlething of tbe history ofthe nation he i8 in may constitute a part ofthem, he' finds in thi.s d.epartrnent Mariana; but, in applying himself tothis truly respectable bistorian, he win he apt to exclaim sometimes.with Polonius on the subject of recitation. la faet, Mariana wears the'6uskin, maintains that highly appreeiated quality of bistory, her cZig...nity, to full effect.Toattain this, certain1y, details, however necessal'Jto.infOl:mation, however interesting in human natum, and even sometimesmatter of fact itself, are somewhat sacrificed. But passing this, by".the main. ob}ectionto Mariana in particular is, that he is an author forthe closet(a snug padour wc should sa.}T inEngland)~ and not for 3;:;volallte*. rrhf'( defieienc}; in local history,. apd on the subject of antiquities,isll0t sa grcat.. Soc mnch.for·additional matter to. the viatoriaLluggage; to what the ancients, in their military jargon,justly caUeel the-k Philologists must not fâIl into mistakes by their- understanding of tenns. Notwithstanding:the name, the moral attributes here al'e rather of the passive than the active nature. But see thefrontispieceto the volume of Gil BlàS,where that adventurel' (of happy tel'mination) and his faith-­fuI Scipio travel to take possession of his country-house. The fiiglLt of this vehic1e is at the rate:(il! sorne twenty miles in eighteen hour$.,

1'll:A V.1lLS IN EtiR()Plt.împei)imenta. Itwill ium out in anothersense to the scrutinizingfra.:;,vener. But to recur to this province and its geology*. The iV0ndersit presents in this direction have extended beyond it8 limits, but theydo not seem to ,have made the impression thatthey otlght.CARDONA.-The famou8Inountain 0f rock salt deserves tG beclassedamong thè wonders of the globe. 1 shaH not describe it. Itis a curiouscircumstance, that the atmosphere which decomposes stone has; hardlyany effect on the surface of this ll1ass t. :As to th'e origin

PL'UTONIAN AND N.EP"TU'nar tl"fooPY.Variousiartidles aire carved'outQfjt1:lli$b~wtifuJIY'ipuresubstanoo, more frail tlî3u glass~ for/it; isunequal itbencountel'f climate.MONT sE?lt',RLAJfi is 'an 0 Fij0èt;net less inte~e5ting-'1e$5 understoocl.,:.how..ever, though;perhaps mor~des~ribed. It, too, is unique in nature. Bythereceived descriptions, its comprehensionseems beyond the humanmincl.. E(owJpresUIilptuouS then,itwiIl bel saiel, tG undertake it! On theadventurer!s beaG'be i the sin:.!! Tltebestviewofthisstupendons mass,,vhich ne~ver has, beendulyinvestigated~,ison the road from BarcelonsTh'eommshôrrftJ;isa c11~tll(}teriàstàte iupwithê'rù\ltè' il$i el~éwh~.O~e trllvellerisg~(;ld i~oraB~dote, \and; aftOthêr fÔ~iSà~îfe\()~ehas a ready talent, at; hUlUorouSinventioB,anotheratinterestingditfuseBess. AIl this is weIl; and the French excel too theirway in stâti$~ie~K/:.I~:.this respect their views of tb.ings are excellent. Bût;' ~endtall}i;speaking,theredoes not!pre~ail;~ht,oughrrthatma.uia tastefortne sovereigI~beautyiofnature, To whàt Illoftiness of expressionwould this p~'ls,ion, ,if it existed in a French breast, reach! But early habi...tuated tocivic Iifé, m.ànners, audrestriètiôns, ruralimpressions in the /nlorhingoflife, the llursèofthe passion, behlg uitknQWU; they are. nCi)tlcompetent'to:. j1tdge Ïts object or cffects. They are:scientiftc, and describe, as s,uch, :weIl;, but to describe nature, it is only necessary to be sensitive.Tfle impression caUs out the faculty.The Germans emul.ate the English here. The awful con..ceptions of German, imagination'arè' ;;i~edia.tely affécted 'by "the grand scenery of nature. The'tone of their expressions proves theFc can be no affectation,-proves how competent they are taappretiate justly, what they so strongly feel.1

58 l'RAVELS IN EUROPE.to Villa Franca; about twelve miles distant.The traveller on thisroad meets an object which, in its way, will also set his thoughts in action.He is aIl at once startled with the sight of what strikes him as' aprodigious bridge; but on poring down into the ravine heIoW', .the ,destitutionofwater proves}o him that his Rrst conclusion lacked footing.H.enext, having the Pont du Garde in his mind's eye, lool~~across forthe summit levels, whereby W'.ater i8 to effect its powerful 091m~lJui~catiohs to repay aIl this cost and labour;hutopposingp,zonounce their veto against this deduct~on. He then, lidog, adopts his logicalc.QDcJusion;, and, underthe' circumstance~.2iili}fèr$.itto be a road; and stlch it is.Tiers of arches and water>ifeivèls to.bfing.m;ulys >acrqssa ln a calculating cQun.try ag;Y\a..~ce~intercourse so fa,r as.to pforfour-wheeledplanesofarail-way wouldthe wayo~.aé~o~iqJ()d'a~ol1·to blame here :sofar froin it,cônsidered a road hitJ,terto, could have sufficed tbem whil~ t4e globelasted; thougb laid.oüt orlly by the instinct of th~ mpl.ys.: Bptsu,chJs:·the gran.deur of cOÊc~pt\.ionin the g()verningpart of thisperhaps, snch the grandscale.·Qfidcasof .......a ......", .......,.own pOi~ke:ts,ievery publicBere ts nobetween. coàchespices, amr.mules creeping ov~r stagës of arcad~s;asobjectaimed at. But thisjs a specimen 'Of what isEvery publicwork under this government i~ thus subl'în.'leIy ctardily proceeded in, and, without everbeing cor:npl~ted,.raIn short, the process is directly in everyrëspecttb~ reverse

(J . /) } "-

MARTOREL, ETC. 59,men would do" who were managing the matter for their own advantage,and with their own me:.ins. Applied, pro)::>ably, most particularly to;such examples. as this, the great Adam 8n:iith says, "810thful and neg~ligentprofusion is pecuJiar to monarchies." U nder a governmentwhere the community was accustomed to tal(e an active interest in sucbthings, the abuse certainly could not happen. But to recur to Mont~serrat, to which (for this is in two senses a deviation) Martorel, twelvemiles from Barcelona, is the direct route. To visit it, a letter of intro~duction to sorne one at the convent is at least eligible; and the follow-$u.bjoined as an exemp1ary specimen in its way.:Recibe los portadores de esta 'carta con la mas particular'accordinglyproceededUpOll.Martore1 wasreachedbefore midnight, and presented the usualS.cene, music, sueh as it is, adequate fully to the intended effect; sing­""",.ot'..r in its dim streets, crowded posadas, cornmqnwaiting-girls. Barly in th~ morning the long...this interesting obje6t took place. But to give a JustaPs.olut(~J'y ne~essary that the reader should first divesttl1e:recm that he may have acquired through theOf, to express it more closely, that he should re~COI~n(lerlCe in graven images~.~0101e comp1.1t(l.tioDS makethis mountain .three thousand feet at itsisu~lnitabovetheJevelùfthesea; sorne, fwo thousand above the ad.,.jâeêntsurntrÎitlevels ofthe country.. Prpbably they are bdth near the*i)'hose in the workof Labor~e,with aU its magnificence, notexcepted; the shivery appearaucehis engravings convey, totally mlsrepresents the features of this exbraordinary mass.1 .2

60 TRAVELS JNEUR@iPE.trutl1; certain]}' enough 80 to give a goodgeneral idea of itsheight.The fise of the surface, inland, upon twenty geographical m.iles, wherethe waters are torrents, canBot do rnuch less th~tncorrljspond with theirpart of the computation; and Minorca, eighty miles distant, ia Witft~Bthe horizon, for the firing at the last siege iQ that island was distinguishableat night from these pinnades, as the hermits assure us:t-.C..r ALONIA ,vas once a plain, nearly From the centre whereofeluel"gesthl$ !3tupendolls and insulated mass; immlated asmucb in point .ofcpmposition as of elevation. Its forJl:Lisoval; perhaps in the proportionof ahout three t two. !ts hlngeat diameter ia probably aboutquadruple its elevation. $upposing this. diameter taken at the b.ase ofthe perpendicular peakst; that is to say, at the height of about tw.'" "The Balearic Isles (one hundred and eighty miles distant) are visible j'rom tlle eonveTft/"­Bpitome Historieo.t Il person on aBat shore or place but a little above thelevel of the séS, and seéing, by means~f a telescope, the vane of a ship QJ; top of a mountain of a known altitude, may, by the followingrule, tell the distance. Or, vice versa, a person on the top of a mountain, seeing from it an objectRt a known distl,l.nce not much above the level of the sea, may ascel'tain by it the height of the"Qunt~in.RULE.To the diam~ter of the earth add the height of the eye; multiply th,e sum by this height, an9thesquare root ofthe produet is the distance, ifthe height of the eyebe givcn or known. Or ifthed~~aneehe givetl or known, it:s sql.l,are is equal ta the rli\etangle under the diameter of the earth,and the height of the eye taken together b.y the said height of the eye, or to the .:product of thediameter of the earth and height of the eye by the said height of the eye.!iI'he diamèter ofthe earth is v(\ry nearly equal to 1,924 English miles, which maybe: reprœentedbr 2d. L~ the distance be denoted b~ s, and the height of the eye by k.Then the eqg,atiQu 'villhe 2dh+h 2 =S2; from which, when h is given, we have s= .v 2Jh+h 2 ,aud when s is gtven Wf;Jlget h S +2dh+d'=s'+d' and h=vs'+d 1 -d. This general expression will give the heightofthe pinuades Qf Mon.t~errat above the l\1:editer;anean (if Minorca he in the verge of theil' hori~QJ)and 80 miles distant)., about l~or 8-tenths nearly ofan English mile iif 70 mil~s distaut?ahout3,168 Englïsh feet ~ 6nq,if 6Q ~il~& dj~ta't,; ~o;;t.lt ~.t3;& ~1ili~b fee~.~.(i.

61the plain, or three...fuutths of its heighttwo thousand. the elev,ation above the cirofsoil, and threè thousand that above watern dividing the ditference, this wouldnd, and a perimeter, at this point, of~hich corresponds with the circumfeeoÏtwenty-five nuié allowed to inclose its skirts helow.The material of this sublime monument of Neptunian poWer is pud..ding-sto ~ âUtlviùl modification of the first process, not reduced yetently hurled intt> the atmosphere by the aUetherin ailuld state; and this accounts forbf subsid(mcy~ , The consequence ofcrust, as has happened.or washot,~'pteciselyvertical, it no,vbeys the great laws of Rature in a genetal westward inclination. Hencetbat side Îs ülost dicular. Hence, the dilapidation taking placean opening, somewhat tortuous, but to the veryt of the mountain. In this opening, and frontingMtûdé of Port Mahon is 39 P 51' N.And of Bareelona 410 26' N.Their stlm is Sio 17'And their haU 40° 38'1 or 40° 38' nearry.If ~o tliis àlbout 6,5 be ad1° 35' or 95 miles on the equator.om Barcelona, we get 103 miles andone--balf fôll the dîtfettn

southwards, is the site .of the abbey and convent..dicular part of the mass is to the north-west.l~al principle of the modification. Before itated under the operation of the atmoconsiderably higher; and it should seem,that an entire stratum upon the largest Ssuperincumbent upon what are nowlapidation round its skirts, in consplaces to uearly half the P1erpendifive degrees, and ~o similar materifilis .else,.lU the pl'VlUce. Its material is triturated, as said, but not broken; .silic.eo\:ls, .slightlj'" ,calcareous, and wi~h a ferruginous impregnation; so that, iforganized remains were found in it, theJ: wo,uld probably be not m~:"rine. This ferruginous tinge it loses on i . r byclose white moss, which entirely pervadfronted with the eye at a right angle, preclwhich the masses ofstone present wben viewed obliqThus this mountain stands here a perfectly insulatdistant from thè Pyrenees, in a tract which, u .and undu}ations by the superficial wash ofwato the foot of these mountains ; and such it now, under icumstances, appears, when viewed from the top of Montserrat,deed, from the level of the convent. The perpendicul esravines in this alluvial tract, fOfI~ed bythe torrents,sight to the very e~ltrai]s of the soil, and 1 show the,\wcomposition of fragments in which quartz, schist,nate.Schist also appears at the base of this mLittle has been attempted i~ the way of accoud llction of nature,and that little has not b

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itMO])lTSERRArr;AN ALLUYIAL CONFORMATION. 63This ls, therefore, 'a subject open to discussion, (so far aspermitted to the traveller, for, characteristically, it is onlygraI1t~d him to catch knowledge as dogs do the Nile water,) and notoneofthose wbeteon prudent persons tell us the public has alreadymade up itSfniind,'aI).id; 1.8;not ta bedisturbed by the suggestion of newtheaflês. '.IihisseetnSàn::tIFuviâl, thoùgh not a marine conformation.$!~iUifO\ves its origin toNeptunian force.Though the waters \vertrthe parent and nurse of Nature, yet, when oppresséd by them, a burthen$0 new, at the Deluge, wnat but convulsions should ensue? As to man,not reach these countries until fifteen centuries after the tran5-­ofSbHlar.The mountainseems to have been origi.;,adm,its of being. The fotegoing calcutheeye and pace, are not telld"ered orexpectêd as close meaÎ3"Uring.ln such cases approximations are admis.;,sible, as in more minute ones they are unavoidable*.wây to precision; a point ever ta be sought after.They pave theA model of thisni~untain could easily he taken, and it would supply infinitely the mostçO'nipetentiâea of it.This is probably the instance on the face of the~p.roximatÎ()tts. H; The circumference orthe mountain is four leagues, its height a leagueafîtlatI~al~;!9t~câ.~r~ingto; so.me,two leagues! !."'-Epitome Historieo de M071t.errat, which, is. tOI .b~bollghta,t/~Il:~~~~~~~;/ThUs mU.eh f OT its approximations! Resentos 5ays its height is onetiiotlSandthree~~i~~~~~~ndtwenty-six varas. A caleulation hardly within the bounds of reason •.Avarais the$~,a,QtS'h/measureof three feet.Thus Cpstard, in Love's Labour Lost, says, "It isvar~Ji~~~ Sir,fore~c~o~el'resents three." ,La Hor.de's estimate, for he does not appear to have.measured it,is three th(JUsand (French of'course) feet.III the steepestâcee~siblemountainsa thousand feet of elevation maybe allowed to every haI/­houtofascent.--- Hutdistalleesalld Aimensions are computed under very great disadvantag"e here,fOl' whoever saW perpendieular objec.ts in conqexion upo+n this seale? and how unusual j" evenfor>tlieeye, âccustomed to view mountains, to he put to one which has no relative objeet to sealeby! lt isvery conveniently cii'cumstanced fol' a barometl'ical measurement, and a common seabatometercould serve theturn. Where instruments of this kind have a considerable lan,d..carriaœetoundergo,little good reault is to be hoped from them.

64ea.rtp. iQ-, whjç;h N;a,ture 4as, procee4~d with, b.er bQld~s.tcess. of stratifica,.~iQn.hQ.pd il;l, tb~\iPIJO\'"It, WQuldt fequire & cQJlsideli~lilj)J~hdegr~~\Qt' ifliY~1!"tigation to a~çeItainif this cOllforIll~J#on is. ~puJnJ.kwith. the principa,l inh(:frent in the Ip.~\ss;slight clip w.estwards•qQ$111ia,Jlç~iJlwhic4(m~it w

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Ilc~~nc~eMOUNTAIN. 65in WllÇ}.t maY}lave appeared to devolve oninfiietious. . In.the drawingswhichaccomp~inythist~1~~U'2ftlt.prE~seIlt t~tntastlcal[l)lll~I,)~::iI,--"P.Cie:lte(~t"q,.ç'y•• on the very spot,no inl~tattention was taken to tracevarious modesofstratillled>underthe atmosphericalis moulded intoof. the wash of rains and con­·.on..,uo"" itself i~j.ofinspfficient.scope to exhibitrative llla,gnitude between this and itsen it and thé face of nature in its vicinity;thé woods which clothe it. To give the moun­'derable part of it, these last objects must beer~~hfUbs; the lâtter " too small for sight." It is butthe eye and the imagination to affect to give more by then is in the pencil's power, and this is an ohject infinitely hesugar':~oaves,.and organ-pipes te, IlO very poeticall\èJtl""":Y, itmust he confessed, have been aH applied, in theto express or impress the irlea of the exterior conouecs,Gfcylinders, of this mountain. r:['he organrecenttraveUerreally did expect to find this mountain as libelled, ouilines\vnerein are taken from those on the relief of aOutLady (the Virgin Maty) squatted in the cenllreSo ,people wîll judge by what they see.ca, " A latcl'e Septemtriollis mitior est via (see plate )etuo virens, quœ oéulis blanditel' pel' novas rupium figuras,cuneos fastigantul', ita ut hinc turl'ita castella, illinc ol'ganoinsildellsequo, atque aliœ diversœ figurœ exprimi videantur miroK

Tlî.A.·VILS IN EURÛ·P'E.># " Si licd magnis"--But stop, let not the charge ofpedatltry be incurred.about twelve miles distance, and in the dusk orthe evening, this mountain cannot bepared than to a massive brick mansion of cubicular proportions, such as we see in EngIand,numerous stacks of chimneys, sitoo on a horizontal elevation; and the martins' nest~eaves will bear about t!1e same relative !iittfationand dimensionaLproportionhermitages on the mountain do to its general magnitude and their own' eIe'vafiol'lSuch compal'isons as these would do honour to the mOldelratiiotlmost elevated descant on the charms of his l'oasted loin of velÛ. ha:V'etheconveying an imagery as dcfinite in its way as auy the language of eqthusiasm canare morecongeuial to critical seale. Wherethe imagination il! elèvat~d by thenature, the style of expression, unwielded by practic.e, and unrestrailled byexp~ri~n(.Je,sublimated, infiate; and the charge of turgidity he. incurl'ed. COJltempIatiQ~ i~i:Jl()tthe acquisition of that h~ppy state ofmind whieh enables a man (in thewor~to view ail nature through a sheet of ice. As to pedantl'Y, above aU.lidedtP,:wij~Jlstocked, as in later, or faney teeming, asin earlier life, cOllsequentitnœgery\Vmreeij;,~fs~çll,bepedantry, no dOllbt its obtrusion, be it on what occasion it may, demands an appIogYf> But ispeâantry duly defined? The impression the phrase' conveys ta the mind~~~icÔfsotnewHat,thal dweIIs by the ehurch-door, andweal's A ..pl'a'C~i'C.e r~stt$"somewhat generative of choler; and if so, pel'haps. notl.âuStèrity.,But as pedantry and turgidity are, as mine hostess says" "nittl.eil'etlrrent repipesgiNethe mQst correct idea· ofthe general· proportions.l 'bere 'i8littIe choice of expression', however, among th.ern all;; for in point;.~ffact each id.ea is correct, and It .must be ~drnitted thatconformation, auy more than tbe granHic, aré ~(>.tgeologically' their outlines daim an interesteqllàl.to anycomparison in addition to the foregoing, ascourse of life as any the snug paI'lour afi'erds, ma,yresemblance the mountain bears fo ahe gO happily imagined into 'the latter aspttrfect:Yf.. The monastery and abBey stand on onè(j)f thénorth) of the fissure hel'etoforementioned. Tl~e easter.nof·thlf!this awful glen, and th1'Ough the interior of tpis noble pile, by Its eaSf3(;~Jf$'window, with the most sublime ~ffect;and this is a seaSonthe traveller must he on the aIert not to lose a motnent,a

~"-..""""~

AsTONISHI:N'GS.PLENDOUR AT SUN-aISE. 67tbe'splendours·and sublimities around him. Everyac1vanceorb of

68'rRAVELS IN EUROPE.Thel'ock was ob~iously excavated here, no to afford scopthe fomidations, but materials for the erectio'les;" ~ndthe bases of the cones appear to impendov exterior emountain is every where, up to the bases 0with a foliage ofdwarf-oak, cork-tl'ee, and evergreen shmbs.st peaks, cov~r'edThe view of the monastery is taken' from the vicinity of the priory,which is on the opposite side of the great rav'approaching it by the Camino de la He'P,fully situated under a cliff, and hence is pel'downwards that the place posses.ses.he indeed conc1uded, a happ:y man.The gpod priorseemed, and mayHis t,able" was most plentifullycovered in its way; that ifS, with fru:it~, sweets, and farinaceous food,a11 the best in their kinds.and the service was of Englishdelft, l'ecwas elegance and decol'um. He was atestimony to the salubrity of the situa'had none of the paleness of the doisterVarions wines sparkled" on it-le deHghteevery thing English, and had covered the walls of his refectory: with highcoloureci London caricature prints, which he SBeat exultion to such persons as he understood to come from tountry,c1aiming and repeating vehemently, and with exultation, "ShakspeaShakspeare 1"The grea.t poet and .moralist is, in the èyes of the connental people, our Owlen·Spiegel; if the latter be npersonage.:From the level of the bed of the Llohregat, which, Îshere at Monistrol at the foot of the mountain,mulation of masses of dilapidation of variofol'ro, approaching a quadrangular shape"degrees with the horizon.a metapq

~ularlYWONJ);Eli.tF UL Pli.tODUCTIONS OF N.ATURE. 69rôckswhich obstruct it.,t'iloughits course throughout is rapiel, is here parti­tUtUbling and foaming through the sharp schistousApart from other overwhelming objects itsfeatures arouhd wouldbe considered bold; romantic they certain,lyare; butaUdwindles bytbe si

70 '1'RAVELS IN 'nUROP.B.()b:1lainslodginrg'Qt tReconvent ; Id ret r t~o,if he ''WÏSfl forit: blÎt finlesslle3.s"',ve1'yeasilyplea:sed inthisresp>eet, 'hehadLbetterlesq1.1arearea,lanllLhav1itllgsevenfloors ofnÎlle windows eaeh in front. 'rhe churchtoo 15 a maguificentspecimen of thatarcbitectm.re to whichour:Atlglo..'Norm.m.ancestors possess the daim; the nave is carried up to ·a'g.reath.êi,htwith side aisles, but without transeJ9t~,and·a:tthê'eastern'rendisânobletriple window. This abbey isnearlYi enlbosomedin 1'ows of magni:.ficentelm-trees,which forrn 'a vista to ltsreast. 'rhe8e trees have tlll'1Venas ifin their natural dimate, though plantedin thiselevated situation,and on the \'ery verge of the precipice; theircharacterand folia'ge,laticlindeed 'aU the circnmstances in this spot, contrastrasstrongl'yascanrbewith thegeneral clothingand characterf themountai'fl.Montserrat possesses but two springs of wat€r,oneofwhichishereat the convent. How limited in point of votaries is the impression oflocal heauty ! To thousands this place presents no interest save as anobject ofdevotÏon. Bence cme the numbers hobblingôtn bare fee!t,m' creepingon bareknees. To ,another classthe idèawhichsuggestsitself on Montserrat being mentioned, is" :A1t!vraim·ent oui! Beaucoupde piel'res précieuses! ùifiniment de richesses!" rrrueuucloubtedly fromthe time when itdeased to bea' rUl'e incident for devotees in a idfenthusiasm to act like the Dllkc!of l\Jledina Siduia, whohereft hitnselfof the cliamond buttons of his court-suit topreseQttoOurLady;~of* The dimensions are: length one hundred and forty-five Spanish 't)fnave,twl>nty..t>nebreadth of each aisle, TotaldimetlSi

:Mc.,.jISBJilrair;; jtll~iYW)m7lcabinet of valuablcs: theyare now actually to heto. this spot every year, who do not look ataugbtbeyond,wbat the' walls, the work of men's hands, contain.The cmrvent,jt maybe judged from the Jittle said of its exterior, cont,ibumesiiD 'no degree to thé beauty of the place. Still the institution.a dailll to intere.st. The site is certainly considerably._t ~sessaOc9!Ve ha.1f the height of the mountain.The story of the discoveryoftk~&a€red image which led to the adoption of it is dated A. D. 880:..Tb.~Qbbaywasconstructed in. the sixteenth century; but the presentstands, was completed only in 1655.Miracles,.be SUP1J10S1ed, speedilyensued tbereupon *; and the profits areeff'ect is produced thereby:... rrh@,sound. A hllllclred lampa of soUd sil ver, mostnig-ht, and a most sublimethe great organ and voicesat night, in these solitudes, is most transcendent, combined in generalbrilliant illumination whicb breaks throllgh the numeabbey,so that aIl then appears one blaze of Jight~Each lamp weighs from five to eight arrobas. These are in their own,v;aI!\W1(!i M.I~ottier shapc~, aU votiveofi"erings. Here is a pearl in the treasuryl'l'CP UIO,tlSano IJUIUIHI:S sterling; an emerald at two thonsand,is estirnated amounts to a million sterling.Thecross, and clothing and lim bs of saints in' profu­Slon"The li'brary is considerable and corn prehe:nSlve;,as rnay weB be judged, when we are informed it contains aB'the books fOl'bidden in Spain.A level space has been made out in the7: "Doubtless the pleasure is as great",Of.being,cheated" as to cheat."Eccesignum. From the Records of l\1ontserrat. See Appendix A•.

7r;2 TRAVELS IN EnROPE.front or on the western side of the convent; a~~lb1meJiately,~!~::;thrs.begins the ascentto the hermitages.On this'ascent are sixl1l.lnd:redand sixty steps, not successively but often)a~.cortsideJtal?lei!i\t~J(va;l$,afew, and more or less together, to ascend'tô.thehigherlêvherrnitages. But the elevation of thehighest consider$.blyexc 18scale of computation, the height ofeachstepJ)e;ing.)rat~datThree ascents present themselves'fI10nl;the Co]t)~",~~ntaIl abounding in the pl(~ture!,q.Ul';;)é:1bJ)JVJ~;I~i~!of c1imate it may l'cadilyTbenumberof knownplaJaits,scrutiny has probablynotbe('}tlverymil)ute.The rnountain lies in twobishoprics.are in its southern part are in thatnamely, those of Saints Jerollymo,and J arnes; and those ofthenorththony, Salvador, Benito, Anna,]!)'Holy Cross, Vitoria, and the Holybishopric of Vic.The acccss to thcse, which hegins rFHmi,'t1by stcps, and steep ascents, rl;l:gged,propped \lI; bycros1I. timbers*.and connects, in its course, allAîivehunàrêd,but theBythe usua1 sagacity of tbe animal, perforrns bis )V~e~lythe gond üühers with theil' respective p]l~tancles,contains bread, salt, oil, vinegar, wine, and S(()Cf~~IJLBIlhermitageswhich-K Those who set out to view the hermitages usually start atback to the convent about three in the afternoon, having lu.",.",,"halts at the hermitages, for ten hours or upwards. Thé ci):c1.1-i~·

~ "'-,,­".~

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THE HERMITAGES ON MONTSERRA1'. 73Trhemule has a bell at his head, sets out from the convent unattended,goestnert1u.nd, c1imbing the. stairs, halts at each hermitagein succession,and ateach noddinghis head sets the heU there a-ringing, and socontinues to do Uutil he makeshimselfheard; and the portionis takendut othis pRnnier; whereupon he continues his route, and having gonenis round returns to the cnyent. The hermitages are comfortablenabita.tions, containing in fact suites of apartrnents, as a vestibule, anante-room, a refectory, a chap~], and a kitchen. Annexed to eachhennitageisa garden, irrigated from that source whence the hermitsderive the necessary of life, the dews of heaven, to collectwhich inèlinedchannels in considerablenumbersand extent are cut in thefaces of the rocks.Inaccessible as these structures seem when viewedfrem below,it wou~Q.b~e

74 TRAVELS IN lU1BOPB.triumphant church.No doubt seems to have existed as to the moralrigbt to do what we like with those whom the chances of war have' p~tin our power. What a happy sang froid mus.t he posse~ed by, whatedifying Jieflections must recul' to, those who viewed the procedure ofthair ~ardy work, or, rather, architectural taste!WJ'etdlcs swi.ngingby cords of three hundred feet in length, and at an elevation of fiftetlnhundred feet from HIe ground 1man.The arcbitectwas a bold enterprisin~Grandeur of conception, howeveJ',. is usually perceived toexpâllaaccording as the costs to he defrayed faU upon other~i!·~alt",it~aUfEimagim81' here! Neither money, nali.d@votio:n, nor miracle itself, couldhave: avalled t)}em ta carryit into executlon; but it has beeu, as wcsee, done.'fhe O€cupation of the hermitages is in succession, the youngesthermit taking the mûst remote and highest in situation~,that by thechapel of Our Lady on the nOTthern summit peak. AU ;the hepmit~ge~however, front to the south. rrhi~ebapelof;tOurLf4~Yt thÉ!}' high~stlntiIflling; on themountain, lIaS been :frequent)y stricken by lightning.The view, nortberJy, toc the Fyrenees is, really astonishing..But thew)lOle inte:pv:ening tract appears as Olle vast level. The mounta.iu is hereperpendicular.nfty feet below the summit.One of the cones, howeveF, projeats at sorne :forty orCuriosity is excited to view it by a traitof romance 1n a $.panish offiaer, which lately ocaurred.A lady's veil~ The entert,aimnent the hermits give to th41ir visitors consists of chocol,ate, iced \va,ter, &ngarrcakes, and preserved fruits. But the good Andalusian hermit, at the summit,. adds to the othe!'articles brandy, by no means unaœeptahle aftet' a sultry walk,. and in sueh. an elevlilted elimate~ .The fatigue of the aseent prevcnts his hospitality's being often put to the proof. Travellers gene-,raIly und their curiosity satisfied hy the ascent to the three fir.st hermitages, two of which adjointBu~ w\J.Q can charge them with exaggeratio~, o:r dQU;~ tl~l\t WJY thillg \\Ibich Ql:lghtto •.~ sean was,om.itte.d t. Snell is,. howev;er, the eharl'\ct~riM,in proc~ure of ~U4r:~~t Rfti~e§:~h_e under*name of travelling.

ROMANTIC GADIHt'NTRY OF1\. SPANI8H OFFICER. 75wtt~d::>lown a'wüy, llnd descended on tHîs. cone. The officer made a vowtll'ât hewôulti never leave the place until he nad recovered it, and thene~essary:apparatusofropes was actuaUy to he procured from Barcelona.to enahle him to effeethis purpose; as he continued. inflexible. Na­·tionàl hiànnerS be~()me asecoD.d nature, and are Dot to he extinguil'hed~thongh suppressed. Ihconseq.uenc:e ofthehefore·mentioned. re~latîon,the oldest herruit OCCllpies the nerruitagenearest the couvent. The,·herruits may visit each other during the day. Nothing can he imagined"10re pi~turesquè than a grbupeof these good and venerable men, withbéatds down to t'hait girdles, plttced at the door of one of these cl weIl·ittgs eIIibosolIled in elrergreens. They are very kindand urbane int'beh' tîlaunets,andeachhermîtageis provided with sweets,col

76 TRAVELSIN EUROPE•.He had figured in the court of 'Portugal, and retired hither completelydisgusted with the worJd, and happy where he is. The worthy hermitsalways laughed at being questioned on the subject of :1\11'. Thicknesse'sstory of their brother, who had domiciliated the birds of the air, and soForth$. And certairily itmusthave struck them as a wretched puerility, orworse, in a travelIer, to come so far, and take home such stories, evenif there were any slight foundation for them ; and equally so, for otherstoadvert to and carry in their minds such trash,becauseoncella~~~ted.The inquiry always, after a smile, 'produceda gra:\Tea.n~wêr:that, by the·laws of their order, orrule, no livingbeing1"-;save the individual hermit,can l'emain, during the night,under the roof of any hermitage.· Theyoccupy their time in the intervals of devotion by cultivating theirgardens, turning with a Jathe little toys, which are sold. at the convent,and similar occupations. To sum up what is to be said, upon th~ subjeetof Montserrat, it only remains to, add, that no traçe of.volcanicoperation appears t. Its geologyis: unique, its botàny interesting, andits picturesque astonishing. Such as corne to visit itshould, put the ideaof haste out of their mincis. The accounts. hitherto given of it are verybare. Those of the natives themselves are insufficient. And as forfashionahle tourists, invesügations sucb as these, are in.deed mattermuch too ponderous for tbeir' volatile ep,istles. Little fear nced be excitedtbat the matter it affords will be speedilyexhausted. Such isNature, and the· globe which we inhabit, that the most trodden path'*' They mention an ascertained fact, that no two birds, of a wild nature, will live b:>gether undlM"the same roof. One will kiIl the other.. Mr. Thicknesse's' work; with its·. private details of suchfashionable literary intercst, is, transmitted by himself, in the library of the convent.t The hermits make three vows : solitude, poverty, and chastity. They ara permitted to visitthe convent on holidays.,t At six hours journey, however" hene.e, are hot bathsJ. very serviceable ingun-shot wounds •.

wiUp:resentsOtnething new to the next corner.due sCl'utiny has never taken place.MONISTROL, ETC. 77Buthere, the fact is,The scale is too great; and scrutinyisa wùrk'of timeand leisure. A man must have travelIed, to know whattoil minute investigation hrings with.it in countries like this, desti;·t\lte of aIL those.comforts ,wherewhh we are spoil~d at home.­June 19, 1l184.MONISTROL.-This romantic little village is at what i5 caUed the.footof the mountain, but still at a considerable elevation above the bed ofthe Llobregat.It consists of a groupe ofhouses planted among ruggedc1iffs, wherever a sufficientexpanse of plane could be found to lay outa. cottage fioor. Its gardens and orchards teem with fruit and produce;apd itwas a" pleasing scene to observe the villagers watching the eyesof their good reetor ~R he walked through them, and the children run,.ning up to kiss bis ha.nd. 4ny article of their p:l7Oduction, whidl theythought had attracted his notice, was surely sent Ill, the evening, with acomplil'uentary message to that effect.no better than the l'est, within or without.was the name of this venerable man.He lived himself in a cottag€Don Juan Constantz y RosetHe lived with Spanish hospita.­lity, and though with a limited consumption, was generous in participat..ing it. Afrugal dinner o~ one good dish, an olla, good \vine, iced watel;anrl. excellcntfruit, constituted the mid,..dlly meaL The breakfast was ofchocolate, and this regime sufiiced for the day. His house es'tablish:­me.Iit consisted of an amù * (a house,..keeper, a female relation); hisstoresilltwo c~sksif of wil1e~-the home-made produce of his vine-~ Each house has'its ama. The most benevoli:mt ihtQrcourse exists between masters and servants,nor do the latter thereby ever lose sight of due resl/ect. They enter into conversation with.th.e master and his friends while serving them at table.t One of these was his bottega (butt) of vino recio-,-verystrong-oodièd wiüe. Our phraseiSmorefrequently med than unqerstood.. But several of our tenn~" sadi and the likc, in regard' to.,

78yard; bis whole supCfnumetaty turniture,in oneb'edstead tindamattre~s.The Httle rivet Llobreg:al\>\l< (t"his Uâme !dgnifting 11lOtibtain-torrenl\)is prbOahly 80 caHed frdm its )oftytleigfibour'~not cohtribute to iis permanent ourrent.bût the thôûntàiti doesTu aU àppearance, however,the floods in their day must he tremendous. How intere~tibg must aresidence ofdue leisufe5 ib this vidnîty, he rtt tlhose sell:s:ôbs!Sodeepwomate the rocky borders of this river, tbrtt it Üiày he saidtldt 15€Jhaiveenlerged into air, until it has somemiles passèdtl\ê moui\tâînt.BARCELONA.-The extertlal b~affiem~reatnotints to something. Thewants of people in these latit~des,andthe means tbey possess ofpurchasing what they thibk théy want, are not to be jHdged of byoursat home; but still a considerable hustle is seen here on the quays.is gratifying to an Englishman to see the crates of Staffordshire wares,the Clay of his country,supetsedingall competition, and dra\vi·ng Forththe notes of admiration.Snch is theèi'Jiniort ih:favètH.'ôf Etlg1i'shtnanuracture,that it carries the prefeteneern iits hame alonc.J:tPlain it is tosee, that the wealth of Spain, wetè it to become rich, would, in theresnlt, be that of England.A single capacious ship, manned bya fewhands, and freighted with English merchandize, would here bring morerea] pront to England than the plunderof a galleon or of Paita.Popularirnpressions do not calculaite.Thousands in England heaf of thewine, and various others in nautical affairs, have crept into this language in consequence of the extensiverange Spain oncepossessed iu exterior commeree.!/< By crossing the river opposite to the convent,.one of the beat general views of the mouutain isobtained. It i~ beyond the power of the artist to do justice to so magnificent a scene.t The works of Nature are à l'abri of the fèehlemischief of man•. Theconvent and abhey,their treWlures first plnndered, are now wantonly bloWll up; no local trace being Iefe of what theywere. . 'l'he religions institution is dissoived, and the good hermits have perished in, or are put toflight fi'om, their cells, which arenow no more than à :refuge' for the birds ~f the air:

79'€l:1;pt\lr~ pi ~ lt~~ister"ship" for one who reads Adam Smith. The iUtreatlnellt ,~hieh ~his people received f~om those po,vers which sustained:the stf1;lggle against the~ hause of Bourbon, iu the abandonment. of thei},'\il)terests sa entirdy at the negotiations whicb wound up the business of;theSucces$ion...war, doej~ not appear, at present, to have left auy imprea~&iOll on tbeir n1În~ds. Ji ia a.; sühj.ec~t oi discuasio:n ,vith th08e only who!have given their attention to the investigation of the po1itics of this+peninsula. But the caUs ofdaily existence, and their voiatility ofdispo....sitio1), le.ave tbis people no time ta tbinkon who ,vere their friends ortheir enemies, or what friends were true or faIse, in those days.. It 15plain the presentSpanish government does not wish they ever should.he frienàs to it.jlldgemellt~But things of this kind are nat weighed with very nice'l'he Raute jf'am BARCELONAto LER,IDA.CA'l'ALûNIAl is m~Qst interesting in its geological features, aI! perhap8~these are mast interesting in Nature at large. It pas.sesses, too, an iu"'"terest in history ; military history, interesting as the last of Cresal'~s la..bot'll's; iliteresting as detailed b~ bis admirabl6l p~en. (Upon tbis sub"!"je.cb,$om.e doub;t if the quthenticity of} the narrative be alwaysequal:;to, itsele.ga.lil).ce~}; '1'0 military men,howeyer," Lerida m\lst he anobjectof curiosit,;th:st, as the arelia o·f the defilat of-tbe Carthaginian ge""n0Ii:Ü Hanno b,-Scipi"O; qut much maIe as that of the manœu~res onCœsal', in his~ admimble carnpaign against the lieutenants;of Pompey,.~so ab!y commented on and elucidated, by Guichardt.MAB;TOREL {July).--Here the rpads. ta. Montserrat and Lerida.divide.y GUALADA,-a r:omantic'\lly situat~d lIQstalris, and the adjqcentcountry a complete e}}itcHlle of CatalQuiall pictures

80 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.a balcony and portico of rude timber rather in the wane, with vmesluxuriantly creepinf; over and covering it; an undulated country,cut by deep water..:courses forming beds of gravel, and' constituting theusual roads; with here andthere a shaw, a transparent groveof pilletrees,complete the scenery~.The general c1imate of Catalonia i5humid. Thatsuch is the case, its surface ,proves. The vicinity of themountains, Montserrat itself,affords sufficientcause forthis conclusion.The showers come down like water-spouts.But the atmosphere in theintervals of them is delightful; and the beauty tpe~! add to the face ofnature past description.ltinerary.-CERVERA-LERIDA.LERIDA-the high castle whereof is seen for the previous day'sjourney.lVlontserrat also is not lost sight of by the traveller until hearrives here. This is a town of considerablebustle. The rural sceneryis here completely çhanged, nothing of, Gatalonia properlyin that respectremaining! ' This place nevercouldhave poss,essed in itself importanceequal to that,given itby theevents of which it hasbeen theœrena.Its site precludes it from having ever been a considerabletown.Here, however, the fate ofthe world was once, if not twice, brought toan issue.ls it possible for a person to look with apathy upon such ascene? or is he to treat his rising thoughts like the live eels in the pasty,and cry 'JO. Down, ~vantons", down?" The expansion ofthe mind is oneof the ,principal advantages to he looked for in travelling.Guicbardt'smap is accurate; and in his commentary upon this campaign, in a tractof country .he never saw, he hasproved his uncommon penetration.'1< One feature disfigures the landscape; the,PQtence. The gallows appears on every hill, at leastin every view. A person ignorant of politicalcauses would imagine hi~self where crin,es were veryniffuse, or law very cânèl~ive. In •pointâtllleaning ,thething .isharmless.

e'lElSLAR'8 CAMP. 81The tr~veller has no business here without thi8 author in his hand.TheFottde Gardon (Cresar's camp) would be a strong post in the presentday. It does notanlount to a position. On the scale of warfare inCresar's day, it was adequate to what the powers of destruction extendedto.The scientific powers are tobe understood. It i5 hard toresîstthesurmise thatCœsar's'aeeoilnt ls drawnup with quite asmuchregard to effect as to l'eality. But therecan exist no doubtas ta thegeneral facts; and here indeed he showed himself a consummate generaI.By what magical spell did Cresar turn the heads of his antagonists,that they should permit Mm to execute the fedious, laborions,precarious operation of turning the waters of the treacherous Sigre,whereby their doom was sealed, uUder their very camp?It wereto bewished that those blest llwith lei5ure and convenience would endeavourto trace thcse canals. The little knon in the plainbetween Cresar'scamp and the town is now perfectly conspicuous, and seems as if itpresented itself for the purpose of giving the great warrior an opportunityof composing a pompous description. Along clay Qf investigationrnight here bepassed in ,an interesting manner, since the scenery of thecampaign lies within the limits of a morning'sride.taken place in the face of N aturesince those days.No change hasShort and compressedasCa3sar's local descriptions are, tbeyare perfectly clear andaccuratè''*. ']ltnvlittle analogy must existe behveen ancientandmod'crnwarfare!#< Those of the Spanish poet lLre more descÎ'Îptiv~l.r so.LERmA.Colle tumet modico, lenique excrevitih altumPingue solum tumulo: super hune fundata vetU$tâSurgit Iler.da manu----

TRAVELS IN EUROPE.Itinerary.-FRAGA. Upon the CINCA another JJ;Iountain-torrent.PXNALVA, BUJARALOS, LA PUEBLA, SARAGOSSA.SARAGossA.-The general officer commanding here is of the nameof Bagot, descended from oneof the Irish familieswhich fol1owed thehopeless fortunes of their master hither. The respectable sitùationsThe military positions.Proxima rupes (that nearest to l/eritZ4)Signa tenet Magni-(Pompeii) nec C~sarcolle minoreCastra levat : medius dirimlt tentoria gurges.The hillock wltick Vl'ougltt on the action.Luce novâ eollem subito eonseendere eursu,Qui medins tutam eastris dirimebat Ilerdam,Imperat-----,----The diversion if the waters.Nequid Sieoris repetitas,audeat undis,Spargitur in suleos, et, seisso ,gurgite rivis,Dat pœnas majoris aqure.The general view rif the country.Explicat hine tellus campos effusa patentes,Vix oenio prendente modum---It might have been supposed that after a topographical description, so positiv~ and of so manycenturies standing, misconception on the subject of the face of Nature could not have,existed inthe present day: yet we still hear of the mountain-fastnesses of the Catalans.The author was not aware at the time these notes were written that his friend G. H. Hall, Esq.had bestowed sorne attention on this subject. Those who feel an interest ther~in willbe gratifiedby reading an article ,witten by his learned friend in the supplement to the second volume of theMilitary Panorama, where the catnpaign in fluestion is succinctly but most ably treated'~ Theauthor'believes Guichardt's observations had not fallen in Ml'. H.'s way. It seems probable thatMontserrat and its skirts form the hasis of aIl these accounts of mountain,..fastnesses affordil1grefuge for defeated troops. They are mere words of course in a military dispatch. The naturalist,at least, may look for them any where else in vain.

GEOLOGY oP THE COUNTRY. THE EBRO. 83they still occupy, prove that French influence and industry have notsuèceeded to the full extent of their wishes and exertions, to deprivethem of that confidence they have 80 long and meritoriously possessed.Here is an exemplification Qf Spanish interiOl' system once again" ifthat epithet canbe applied to disjointed efforts. A canal faced withstatttary marbie,and'withQwt Watêr!Grandeurdf plan and scorn ofretu1'n are the ideas obvious in everypublic work.geology of this country!Hmv:fiêhisfheIts calcareous matter alone, duly appropriated,would yield far more wealth than aIl the mines of Peru; of realwealth.They exhibit specimens of sixtY different kinds of marble.Here they consider it only an object for the chisel.Satag08sa is a handsome town, \Vith a fine cathedral; and ample descripîionsareextant of both. As tothe paintings, wehave the indefatigàblePons, otherwise De la Pllente; for it seems Ile was advised, as adecorous matter, to assume the incognito for the purpose of travelling!Such 18 p~ejudice !In regard to the Ebro*", in relation ta water-carriage, which 18 amatter of recent adoption here, the nation should be apprised that it" This river in later days has, assumed a military character. The strong frontier of the Ebrois now talk'edof. Do these specTIlators mean tü dasa it with the Rhine or the Elbe? ln the nrst.lJlace it ,is of the classüf mount!l.in-torrents; and assuch, dependence is not to be placedonit inany point of vtew. In fact, in a campaign, it would in al! probability quit the field before the'cOlnbatants, it separatéd, did. In autunm it canhe no more than a herl of gravèl. Atthis momentit happens to have demonstrated, ,by'the point of fact, that ~t is capable ofdrowning a man;hut it would seem there must have been à recillrocityof effort to effect this. It constitutes a stronglydefined line upon'a map. It gives valuabletopographicalinformution. It defines a level at. thefeet of the Pyrenees, or rather boundsthepJain which b

84, TRAVELS IN EUROPE.is calculation aJone, and not speculation~whieh can appretiat~ the valu~of these undertakings. The calcuJation must be founded upon thecapital sunk, and the remote points brought into connection. The Ebrorises on the verge of Asturia. Ta connec.t by artifieial navigatiqn theBay of Biscay with the Mediterranean, by the collateral aid of thisriver,which is very feasibJe, would be a truly national enterprise, openingvast maga~ines, of whieh the Peninsula would he the entreptt.Sucban undertaking is physieally far more feasible on this side of the P'yre~nees than on the other. But the tardines,&ja~dco$tlin~ssof the works,and want of combination andsy.s~ll1i~jthe projection, will long baffleany efforts 'of this kind. As to expenditure, it appears as if thosewho had the laying out of the money thought that the more t11ey threwaway of it, the more effectua]]y they performed their business.rrhereis every reason to suppose that Spain aboullds in mineraI riches: water....carriage should, even in that respect, be a rational speiculation; for,until it be obtained, sneh ponderous wealth is possessed to very littlepurpose.Itinerary.-LoNJARBS, LA l\rfVCLA, Venta de la ROMERIA, DAROUCA,U INOJOSA, GUADALAXARA, JJJeala de Hl?HARES, 1VIADRIT.The broad bed of the Ebro, with its clear ,vaters and pure banks ofgrave], the majestie aspens whieh grow on its borders and impend overits bed, and the antiquated towers of Saragossa, present a very pietu.l'esque effeet ta the eye. But this grati(ying view is on the entrance(by the Pyrenee), not the departure, side.From Saragossa and the Ebro, the country rises into the summit leve!of the PeninsuJa (to localize which, take Sierra~lolina).than thissummit tract, the great plain of Castille, a more uninteresting one cauhardIy he conceived. Here, on the descent ofit, the rivers at this season

SIERRA ~rOLINA A.N,D,'!"RlECOURSESOF ITS WATERS. 85ex.bibit littl~morethan .their beds; in the hollow8 whereof, here andthere,isto he found water lodged, barely in sufficiency. to keep thesQantycattle alive.The :descent of the waters towards the Ebro constitutes,howev:er,rather torrents than rivers.pervade. the face of Nature aU around.Aridity and a dingy oliv·e/D:A;~odeA appears to be on the .$unlrnit·lev·el:of,this plain,:"whichistolerably defined by takingas points for thatpurpose UinojoS"Rto tIaresouth-west, with Sierra Molina* to the right.:From this the waters l'unuorthwaTdsto the Ebro, while somewhat to the west are the sources ofthe Tagus flowing. to the Atlantic.The ascent to Darocca is by abranch of the Zalo; and in its bed, as before observed, little save rockis nowvisible. 'Vhen the epithet plain is applied to this country, fiat..ness is by no means implied; far from it. But it seems to have beeuonce tabular.The diluvial wash has worn it into deep vaUeys androunded summits, while the waters were seeking their courses to theocean.Sierra Molina is the edge of a stratum, penetrating this so ele..vated surface at ~n oblique anglet. Castille and Arragon realize whatstrangers are told concerning Spain.desiccation reign throl1ghout them.Both soil and c1imate are deteriol'atedby theseadventitious evils.Denudation, depopulation, andThe destitution of wood-land (whichthe sagacious Pons would fain compensate by rOWBof trees by thehighway sides) has contributed chiefly to render the atmosphere as aridas the soil; and rains, hereby, do not come in the seaSOn when they arewanted.The vicinity of Paris i8 ascertained to have been materially,'# A very important feature in the surface of this Peninsula.t The whole of Leon, a lofty tr\lct, is said to have a tabular summit level. To \Vhat ,,,tonishingdeductions does the conformation of this Peninsula lead! Bere, howe.'er, is IlIJI to hesought the Gog or Magog of the Rabbins, the giant who survived the deluge astride UpOl'lthe ark.

86 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.affected in this respect, with regard to humidity, sinee the cutting clownof the woods; and asimilar resûlt hasattended the process in the WestIndia Islands. This :aridity is the bane of the Peninsula. Renee it 'ellsues that the fine wheatofthis country, ~the intrinsic quality whereofis superior to any the world cau bring in competition with it, shedsoften, from want ofhands to gather it in, though this process is here ofthe most summary kind. How different the present state of thingsfrom what they were in thedays of the Mahommedans, whoinhagitedthese tracts! These provinces, sotorpidno\vast()produce; for entireand successive days' journeys;llought but thistles; where no humanhabitation cornes witbinken,esave thatwhere the traveller i5 to makehis mid-day and evening haIt, have, on the slopes of every hiU,terl'acesfor the plough. Every valley,was once tanked up for the purposeofirrigation, or the use of the herd,-indelible marks of reproach to succeedinggeneratiolls, or at least to those by whom,theyhavebeengoverned*.Darocca , isa town out of the usual route. Itconsists of a few streets,of clue w'idth, hutnot regularly built. It i8 environed\vith walIs, butIlOt regularly fortified. Its exterior is destitute of suburbor improvement;its air and climate thin and pure beyond imagination. Hannonyprevailshere; at Ieast, recitative and catgutresound incessantly, froInsun-set to sun-rise ;t'atller more than the traveller wishes for.The division of Spain into provinces, which Gught to concern no onegut the geographer, is made the subject of embarrassment to internaIintercourse, by prohibitions, confusions of duties, and the like absurd-k The Spaniards do not like that the desiderata of their country should be made matter of; dis­(1ussion. They ShOllld, however, reeolleet that no people cau take greater Iibertiesin this way thantheir frieuds and allies, the Fl'en..-h, hllV~ done.

suM.'MElt NIGHT~ AND DAYS.andmischi:evous'fisc.al ineonsisteneies, under the description of regu:..lations, and a name of Moorish derivation,asis seen in the affiches, tooJornüdable for the utteranee of Gargantua !limselr. Hereupon itshould not beomitted to warn·the traveUer that, previous to setting out,he,must I-?rovide himse16witha pas-s..port. It is procured without diffi:.cuJt'y,;,but'is tndispensable. '. In'J!e~ard.totkeseas()fi;the summernightshel~e aœ of a beauty not to be deseribed ; the air is so diaphaneJt.ts, thatthe convexity of the full moon is perfeetly obvious to the naked eye;and when that orb does not appear, the stars are of a brightness, andthe skyof a 1'ichness of bIue, that othe1' latitudes and e1evations canafford no ipea of. The exchange" to-day is indeed for the worse.Dingy olive, a Forest ofthistles extending as fa.r as the eye eanreach, ina horizonapparently boundless, or bounded only by a partial ledge ofhills; with a venta, to whichthetraveller is driven bya scorching middaysun, andfrom whence he is probably quite as rapidly drivenbraseow}ing hostess. These eonstitute but a cheerless prospect tourgeonthe toil of the road, whieh is here throughout nearly as it came from thehandotNature ;hardly bearingthe traccs·ofw,11eel, or even hoof. Everyfoot of this tract is argillaceous wheat..land: but not an car, of grain ista beseen! Seme good ever arises out of evi1. But the proportionsare thepo~nt."Vere it not for theabundance of thistles, it is impossibleto sayhowthe seanty population, here could~xist; still less how.meet the limited wants of the traveller. "Vithout them, he and hisdonkey alÜœ should want their: ·pabulum. They suppJythe only culi­IJary fuel of the venta. And this article, firing, Îs Hot in the list of œconomics,here, for any, pUf.pose save tbat of the ~itchen. Yet the wintersmust bedreadfully severe, in an e1evation snch as the thinness of theatmosphere ascribes to this tract of eomltry.The French always express themselves with horror at the, idea ote

88 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.travelling a Spanish route; and, to do themjtlstice, it here céases to bea matter of wonder."J'aimerois mieuJJ voyager en Ajriqrœ," was themost modified phrase of discouragement expressed on the north side ofthe Pyrenees.been hitherto unexplored.but viatorial grievances.If this country possess 'matter of investigation, it hasN othing at least has been discovered in itSome travellers may have been induced tothink that details of the like nature afford gratification at home, on theprincipJe of " Suave mari magno." Perhaps they do. But they!arcofas ]ittJe use as comfort to those who go abroad ; and hè who enlists hispen in the service of mankinrl, when.a tràveIler, will, prineipally, eonsiderthose ~vho are to come aftel' him. 8panish œeonomies, on theroute at least, being here mentioned, it may he, once for aH, now added,present a list of desiderata as long as those whieh Boniface offers tothecOl1si

-SPANISH IGNottANCE AND SUPERSTITION. 89:its'\visdo1l'llut'be measure, meaus, iti8 evident, to deliver the sentimentsor the community on the occasion. They appear to have been modifiedin the most estimable way rOI' neighbours and snbjects. Flowdifferent theattachment to literature of their day, and the horror at it inthe presemt! The phrase 18 no hyperbole. A~book, not expressedly~eligi0us" exdtes inthelnincis'(jfiscf!>'M:e'}(?);Wer Spaniarc1s, horror. By theit'expression, by their words and eyes, it seemsas ifi a person Wh0h.>okediuto one, for any other purpose, stood a convicted heretic, or dealt inthe blackart.With ignorance superstition reigns conjointlyaU overthe world.They are twin dremons, and aIl powerful while their daylàsts.Due honour, on the otber hand, has been uhimately yielded. toOervantes by the upper classes; and El Quixote lS now appretiated acoordiugtoits l'nerit, at borne. An Englishman who cannot estimate itsbeauties as fiey deserve, would. be, if a ro,reigner, equally blind to tlH;>seGr Shakspeare. Still, who can JOl'get the pathetic expression,~, POl' no verme delante de tùs puertas muerto, (Madrid)y 0 de mi patria, y de mi mismo salgo."III plain English, the immortal poet 15house and home to .avoid starvation."constI'ained to say, " l'quitlndeed )ails, bolts, and grilledwindow~,famine and bardship, seern to enhance the acumen of the}loet's fancy. Probably, had Cervantes been in easier cil1cmnstancesbewould hay~wrlften Jess. Thus we se~ in education, which.isartificialta.lent, a resou~ee to man undetall the evils which affiict him, and how,in ilnparting it, we apply théoI'l'lYTealaUeviation to them, tbat is withinour reach~ Literature has muchmore power, and i8 much more applicableon sùch occasions, than Stoicislp.\ 'G UADALAXAltA i8 an, active,. populous, busy, and in~proving town.~rhe ,manufacture, so wellknown, of c1oth,Îscarried on with .a vivacityN

90whiçh f:)l~o;,Ye&, th~ faJ,tÇlciQuS r,eqso~!)gs Qi t.l~e tfqç\QQers of Spanisb ilf~dust];j. Tlp.e çé:lpital of Spain i~ now ni6?ih at l~aJilJd; I),ut no iUJprove­RJ,~nt in tlp.e feÇl,tulkcS or cornplexi~n Ocf N' !:liture, J;lS iQ Octl),~r cOUn tries,111arks the lf~igl;l\h(>"Q~40Qd; l),ott1Î;Qg i QI);\iiowli selection: or s,ubseq u~;nt\enhancernel1t" j~ tl;leway of p.rotj,t or ernb;eni~hnlCnt. The circLJ.Ipja:­Ce!)! countl\Y, as the traveller contiLLlJ,es his wearismne, route LJp to thev:er.v foot qf t4e city~waU, np way diff(;lrs, from any ot,herpart of the'çhampa,ign. ln Jater sum,mcr tb~ ~J~ oliv.e aridity Qf Qne yMt stt;lbb~~or faJlow is .alone seen, cvered,nlorc' or less, witl;l th.istles, in IJroPQr...tiQU to the tir;n.e dl\lrit;g whicl;l t~n:por bas. b;een aUowed to prevail.l\tI;.t),~~lT. (J'ulY.}ë--rJ;'he.entrance at th.e Puert(;l de Alcalais very IJ1Çlgnifice:Qt.The RJ,qin street which Ieads from it, tbe CaI1ee* d,c Alcalalti'is as beautifuI a co·nlbination of syr;nmetry, and reliefof contras!, as CaJl:be imagined in any street. It pointsLJp the ascent qf agentk elev(\­tion, just suffici.(;lnt to pla,ce its architecture to the b,e:st effect.to thee.ye.,Grand edifices on each side, aH white, and sufficiently detached to showthe most of them to advantage; a great width at entrance, which con~verges, as is seen in Egyptian architecture, in order to heighten th,e re"lsuIt of the perspective to the other termination; a noble marble fountainthrowing water up, and into, a bason on the right; tl1e rich foliageof the luxuriant elms of the Prao on the left, l}eyond which, and abovethem, gently rises the Retiro; the pavenlCnt excellently laid, a:Qdclean; the destitution of the sIightest vapour of smoke above to Cast agloom; aIl togeth'er èonstitute the perfection of civic scenery, and givean impression of the city in general, which, if over rated, it certainlydoes Ilot entirely belie. AIl theve:x;ations of the Douane reign at th~* This is one of the Scythian roots yet flourishing in the Spanish language, it has relation tGwhat iJ.cQnn.~with.~trqctlwei.n gene~al~ lt i$.an.li\llne~lJ.tipn,tQQofth~~nea.IQgicaltl\ee.. .

~ate,asMAnIuT. GIL BLAS. 91if it'~ereati object of state t6 Ull'OW diffièùlty 'ifi Hîe wayof11l1man it1terconrse. But the illHitary officers, under whose eyès tbésé re~spectable fiscal éxaminâtions proèeed,âre extremely politeand urbanc in.their dem'eanour, ans,vèring every petitionary 1countemmce with thé consolatoryplfràs(~ lof "Lluego'os 'ddpaclwran," atldexcrting thenlselves tobeâ's gobdas their,wôrd. lhû'êed; Hiévery respect, tile 8t>anish mi:.lrtàry officer càrries with him t'hé disting'dishing air 'orMs1~I~ss tinsociety.This air is neither German nor French; destitute of thê stiff"Hess of the one, of less vrvâcHy but more address than the other.Thé,valls of Miadthàl'e, it lS to beo\5served, any thing bnt a forti.fitiâtlcm.A rnilitary guard lS, hO'wever, statIoued at éach gate, fullyêomp'étehttoànrroyfrléWa1y,h6weverina'dequafe to resist iriimicaJ, visltofs. Variousideasrelàd've to tb:is City strike the mind on its firstview. In faet,here is more màtter fOfteflectron than'for observation. Flere the in:"teresting Gil BIas acted soMe of his parts upon thestage of life. If anything can enhance hisdelightfulnartative, it is the reading it upon thespot of hisaction. Thé moràlê of his work (where it is not hurnànity atlarge) ischiefly French, but his sccnery is Spanish; true to nature. As.reflection and obsérvation proceed here locally, and lVIadrit is consideredas a capital, the events of the Succession-war are recoHected ând.bâla:pced. Hêre i8 much matter to rurninate upon. A capital cït!always conveys ~';rth it the iâ.EJâ, if rtot ofmiHtary, atleastof mî('jrit'land pÔlitical,imWôrtance. A s'franget looks around him Mere to see,,,,hat connexions updn such sùbjects hécan trace, and he looks in vain.Wh~lt constitutes lits' hi.story 'ls in the hands or within the l'eacn of everyone.Different motives COliîbiIiedmay hâl"e attached the royal Bourbonfamily to it; and aH we hear, rearl, and see, tends to recall the SUfmiseto the mind, that its situation, so à portée to France, with duesafeguard tô appearance as rnuch as possible, may have been one.N2

l'RAVELS IN EUROPE.How differently things might have succeeded bad a German dynastyoccupied the throne! There is no certainty in the computation. Bûta ~ugacioussceptre can never be swayed to the welfare of the state.The Successioh-war was as unfortunate in its termination for Europe, asits conduet was strange in itself.The ·former was pregnant with eviIsfor this country; for, had the rival family succeeded, the aggrandizementof the nation would have been as much its obj,èct as its interest ; a con..summation it can. never hope for in French hands.literally a local one, no modification can ever obvlate it:.rrhe rivatry being.so deeplyseated as the evil is, it cannot but cause a cutting reflection in the mindof any one who views such noblecapabilities provingahorti\'e.Du'~ing this strange war, which not\Vithstanding aIl mu.stintimately1connect itself \Vith Spain, had the \Vorst thing that ever passed underthe name of system been acted upon, the noble spirit in the hearts ofthe ICatalonians, and the prevalent sympathy towards the Germanfamily, would have brought it to a happy issue. Rach party was,ho,vever,~ in the course of its procedures, left to the due enjoyment andeffect ofits own blunders, and a better speculation could not have beenadopted.It may one day become a prevalent opinion, that the bettermilitary science is understood, the more it will ,benefit mankind atlarge.Nine-tenths of the wars which desolate human nature havetheir origin and protraction in ignorance; aud, \Vere this not itself aplummet over mankind, could never be entered upon and perscveredin as they are. l\for.e just calculations would in the othe1' case belllade, both as to what is to be gained, and what iB to be paid for it ifgained.U nder such consideration, the progress of this science is tobedesired, even by the friend of human nature and true philosophy.But, abstractedly, it 18 Impossible to impute justly, evil, to the disseminationof any knowledge.In regard, however, to the war which fixe

CA VALRY F~'J,'TBST li'OR ACTING IN SPAIN. 93the desHny of thi~co,untry, and the spot now under observation, Maicilrit,as the helit,rt ofthe state, a capital in fuB possession of aU its moraland politien! attributes, will èertainly strike the mind in such a light.).3ut Madrit is no more to the nation than a polypus is to the heart;and, thesutferings of individuals out of the question, the partywhich lèvelled it firs~ woU)d have done the other a service, had thatother.been the onedestined by Fortune to the permanent rule of the,state.It is obvious to any one who studie.s the map of Spain" whénonce he bàs cast a cursory eye over the country, thatit is by cavalrythe business of warfare within the Peninsula is to be decided.~fadrit'plajns, wh~reHere isin· the centre of this noble tract of the earth, surrounded by vasta superiority of. cavahy· would decidedly predominate;.wher~a~jts mOl.mtains by no me~ns present those lines of continuationof positi

94 TRAVÈLS IN EUROPE.it will afford a too correct criterion of the constitution of the hodywhîch it ls intended to ànimate.-··But a hotei is a matter of no smaltpla.ce, ànd H1()se here areinterest to a t'ra veller on hIS first arrivaI id Caupon a handsome scaIe, 'WeIl provided and supp1'ied, ai about thesamerate of expense as in England. Theac!c6irimodations rarely teach tothe affording of .a second apartment to one person ; bût this luxury, inthe scantinessof bed·chamber rurniture, which is indeed preferable inthis c1imate, may be dispensed with. As to thescale .ofèxpense, tojudge by what is presented to observation andexp~rr~tièe,Spain wHlbe by no menns found acheapcountry, save perhaps tosUdl as areprepared to bear œconOIhical privations with Spànish stoÏcism. Sufficienthasbeet;l \vritten On this city, for any importance it can pôssess,sa\Te what is derived from the error ofjudgement which made ittnecapital of a great nation.To the admirer and judge of painting, a vastmass of inestimetble matter is here supplied. The warIdat large hasno conception of the accumulation of treasure in thisnoble art posse8sedhy Spain, 'or 'of her native geniùs, \vhich never has had its due(not compensation, for tlIat is out of sight here,) notice. On thissubject English travellers rather shine. J\Ir. Henry and Ml'. Twiss mâybe referred to. In the Royal Sitios the rich specimens of art are inabsolute superfiuity ; the walls are 50 cased with them, that the mindbecomes as distracted as the eye, and it is hardly necessary to observethat catalogues ,vould be sought for in vain. Be l\1adrit what it mayin the eyes of strangers, its royal inmates do not seem inclined to followtheéxample of the Pharaohs of old, in quitting the barren vicinityofthe Cataracts for a Delta.On the contrary, like the Swiss, they clingdoser and closer to the bare parent bosom. The palace building hereof tHe purest statuary marble, is a specimen of the vast conceptionsand tardyexecution prevalent. It has aH the beautythat uniformity

q;f~~t~f;i9tr f,lJlJ,c@a~tJJl;~S~ of ~1il,rfa0e Gan aff9fd: ~.9th~ir adtîüJ;er~, in a;rG"hti~t(;}qtlil·re. By' ll:on-adepts it ~s only con$ider~d()nf:lof ttlrl:e hea~ie$t incuhieY~r laid on the breast of Nature. If bull,{ be grapdeur, apd. '~qitene~S'splendour, it certainly has both to hoast of..For the nUJoober of Hewindows (thousands aIld te~~.t1aousands) see the indefatigable Pons,"Who probably countedtJ1em,allcftnaybe beUeved': as onoath. 'rhisvaluahle traveller, who seems to measure his' reader's patience by hisown, has, amongst his other merits, that of surmounting tasks which nofèUo·w labourer in hisway would wait to do.The reform in the policejS, complete as far as exteriors go. Madrit is. n.ow the c1eanest town inEUr(ilpe. It is to be further o,bserved, the streets of this city ar~ tranquillityitseli çuring the night.Indeed the silence of the guitarwould induce li douht as tobeing in Spain. Sanctuary, howevet, is à.crying evil among the manywhich oppress this country.miscreant figures stalking about theFrom thechurch-:-steps, the profligacy,license and ribaldry designated in the countcnances and conduct of thewretch~s who have there sought shelter for themselves and their guilt,the place should ratller betal\ellfor a Pandremonium. Suchis abuse.Originally, and before laws, the horns of the aItar afforded the ouly,though not sure, protection from outrage and murder; DOW that law isestablished, they are protections for them, and against it. What canrectify the hUIDan head ? Eye witnesses know the populace (of haly)to have conveyèd' to the sanctuary,'upon their shoulders, a J!nurderertoo intoxicated tofind his way thither himself! He made his entryinto the holy of holies, a triumph~l one! Bere, however, when such'anopening is presented, and, so few compal'atlvely (and we see theluall)avail themselves of the same, itis a êonclusive prôof that human natureis at least no worse t}lan èlsewhere.The u8ual amusements uf a capitalare practised here in a certain degree; but the bull-fights, once a

96 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.week, take the lead with,the natives in point ofinterest, and ofcuriositywith strangers; and th~ycertainly afford a magnificent spectacle.Although tlrese are no longer, illevery sènse, the days the pQet de-. ,scribes, when,cc Spanish heroes, with their lances, ,At once wound bulls, and ladies' fancies,And he obtains thè richest ~pouseWho widows greatest herds of cbws;"yet the'cool address of the mounted Picador, and the courage anddexterity of the Matador, are abjects of admiration. And as to cruelty,if things be duly approfondis;lfit be considered that the great revenueof this place of public interest goes in aid of a noble public humaneinstitution; if we consider how little comparative suffcring tbere is inthe death of a horse hem upon the arcna, corn pared with that of the1ifEl of one of ours employed in postingupon 0\.lf grave! road~ at home,-­st.œerings whichany',one, whohas acfewshiHings inhig pocket to ,throwaway may aggravate indefinitely,-the question of cruelty may Just asweIl for us be set. at rest.As to bloody spectacle&!, tlteexhibitioh ,presentedhere is so infinitelyshQrt in pointoftorment>,~o that( dete$tablescene of malignity,.a bull..bait, where the whole airn, abject, andtriumph, is in the infliction of pain, as ,not to stand an instant in comparison;for there needs no hesitation in saying, five hundred bulls arekilled here with less mortal su1fering than a siggle wretched animalendures undel' the long protracted hours of wQrryingby dogs and men.In one case it is skill that is exhibited; in ~heother, mere crue]ty.·Wllat is the sword of the lJ!Iatado'J' thtough the heart of the beast, compavedto the lacerations ~ojudiciousl!J appliedin 'c1ifferent directions bythe teeth and vaunted sagacityof the cur,aided bythe speculat~veCl)t.1l1sels of hispromptel'? 'Vhat a ~ubj

( (/ ,( ~;d/I/.~/ //j//;//!/jl/.~ J .. l ,; .'j. "

BULl. FIGHT~. 97like.. glowon the human face, when signalizing out the point where thebusincS$. is .to be done! If bull-fighting no longer lead the .way tafortune, stiJl the, Matador of the. present day is a ·very distiishedpersonag f.course,cannot be supposed him unco ousofit. .nature. Adm , indeed; i8he easily i cl from whatquarter it is most. valued. dress, and to it before theladies in graceful attitudes, are his, abjects.Inhisday's procedure, hetakes every oppoytunity (and they are tolcrably numerous) to show thathe considers ogling the boxes as his business, and merely kills a bullfor his amusement.It 1s curious to observe the pains he takes to thrownonch his manner during this little casnal occurrence. It isa posit" qat the instant cessatio. ,the bull in the spine at the neck. Inhis side, roid-mort; not the slighteststriking in the spine i8 the universaldeath; and no instance of practicarepetition of blows of the axe, stunning onMuch as the subject of bull-fights has been deLailed, one exhibitionat th~ ampbitheatre of Madrit is worth erving, from its probablesingularity. It was performed by a Pel' n. A noose was thrownover the horns of the fiercest of they this he ,vas hauled toa block strongly planted for the'oe earth. 80 secured, asaddlewHs g·irthed on hiànd struggles may bPerùwians) entCl'ed tlinstantly leaped on tdfQrts, under this aCCUffiU atio~heThe. 1ns back.of wrong,oturned 1008e.1Ji8 rage1 (of the primitive race ofothe spectators, andfuped's rage andredoubled; but speedily

98 TltAVELS IN EUROPE.another bull was .turned in,. to him.His fury was now diverted froinhis beterogeneous oppressol.'i to his. natural antagonist, in aH the bitter:..ness of true fraterhal enmity. 'rhe two quadrupeds fought. Still,however,. in aU the rage of naturalexcitation, he who boretheburthen~howed by interludes that it. galledhim. The serviéesofan ally. by nomeans compensated the opprobrium: of theuncongénial assistance.Obligation was more than disclaimed. Indeed, aUthelogic evet pas'"sessed by the artaf diplomacywauld' have failedxto ,per$ua~6itsoib3Iecthere, that this volunteered effort was for his solegood. Such, howcV.er,anecdote, though nothistory, tells u~ \Vas the jet ofthe conso1atoryarguments used by the physicians to the infant Don Carlos,son of Phi..lip the Second, when, by his father's commands, theywere bleedinghim to death in the bath at the Escurial.If, here, on tlIeone side, thes1.\bjeçt aUyalready suspected his protector of separate views, sothelat~er,()n his'part,found:that':'sorne mo.ral.···ândphysical powers weremucheasie:rtto. seize>tbanito"gûideô ThepbofiqU:adruped received111u

SINGULAR EXIIIBHI'IiON DY u\. YOUNG PERUVIAN. 99l&dged one.oifitbesein the body of theantagonist bull, which, attel'isustainingtheloss of blood for about half atlhour, feH exhaustecl uponthesands.This service cluly performed to his own, the good ally drewa dagger fromhis sicle, and with a contemporaneouseffort stabbed hisprotég/J in themol~talpatt,disenga.ged 'llinlself, springing off his backasthebuI·lfell prostrate un~értheblmV', lnaclehis oheisance to the spec..tators, and exit from the qrena. This grand fil/tale of the contest wasaltogether scarcely the work of five seconds.An instance of its kincl,how rnuchimportant matterin the wayof fate, fortune, and warfare,may he compressed within a short period of time; and how speedy1\laybe thetermillation, and unlooked-for the issue, of agame playedônwitll,actl!JUt.onè mO'l'e from check·mate~-Aprii 10, 1814.It wasc~lrioustoobservethe caltnness ancl inflexible placiclityofeountenance,so retnarkably characteristicof. his natiotlw,and race; ·ofthe young Peruvian.Not the smaHest appearance of emotion pervadeclit.from tirst to last.An unalteredsmile, ancl an inflexible seat, were preservedHewas a tall thin young man of dark complexion,nearly black; anclround facecl.'rhekingof Spain has his choice of palaces, and the world an amplefundofdescriptionsoftheln. 'rheroyal family reside as little as pos-·sibleat Maârif,·and,· to he seen, must be followeâ to the Sitios. Thesystem acteq ~pon in this respect is çonsidered rathel' as the effect of·âV~fs.ilOninllhi:e K oJl;einstance, lihan pa1"tieù~a1" predilection in aoy other.Yet. his majesty's~nmitigat~d.pàssio~ for the chase is su fficien t, simply,to accountfor the routineofroYKalestablishment ancl life; ,vhich howeveri~.unfortunate for aU parties, as the res'idence of a court hereseems tbe ouly ehanceofthat clueexpencliture, and consequent circulation,which could give sorne life to the civic body.02

160 'l'RAVELS IN EUROPE.The Refù'o ~ lB a delightful situation for this clihlate, but s€emscondemned as inadequate, to judge by the surns expending in thescorclüng and arid glare of the new palace, looking at that place wherea river ought to be.This expenditure, aIl sunk without return, wotlldbe sufficient to render bankrupt sorne respectable nations of Europe.In any other point, save this of Jaying out the mopey,-such, forinstance, as that of getting into occupation of it, hereappears nQ. haste whatever.November and December, 1784.-This being the time :of the yearwhenthe royal family are at the Escurial,an interesting tract, themountains of St. Ildefonsot·,. is to be crossed by those whose businessor interest calls them to the court.please, find variety of malter to excite the mind.In the journey they may, iftheyPalaces are laid beforethe public in print and copper:-plate already,in every point of vie'fin which a quadrangle may he placed (and in sorne in which t1l1{~.objieç:t\Vas never yet secn).; and these national st):Q.ctures here, have their wallschèquered witÎ\. windows, and apartments with pictures, in arithmeticalprofusion. They constitute no part of the present investig1;ltions. Rutthe Escurial,. in its very name,so ominous too for the piçturesqu.e,1< Since this was written the Rettro has, Iike Montserrat, had dubbed or inflictedon it a militarycharacter. Roth reeeived their fatal blow, like the pOOf stag in the fable, from. the unexpectedsicle. Later events give the Pyrenees, too, a character they were hardly expected to appear under,tending to cati up reeollections nearly dormant. But in regard to the Retiro, it· is an eminenteon the right-hand to a person standing' at the north gate, Ol' Puerta de Meala, and facing thecountry. It is ludeed the commanding ground of Madrit, to.a eertain point,-the only spotavaiIableÏn a military point of view, but itooes not dominate Over the town.. lt was in formerdays covered in a deer gloom oflofty elms, which seemed, by their over-growtp"to scorn the quadrangularplans of their scientific planters.t These now memorable mountains have since defeated the ealeulations of Bonaparte. Theil:atmosphere is cruel, and their roads cau hardly be called. acèesses. A splendid chmtss.éè was,. it Îl\true, e:x;tal\t here; but thel} here was also the difficulty-how to get at it•.

p,JJCr;['URES, ETC. 101(.'1cwia, difOSs ..o.fmin.es,) supplies a due idea pf the verdurewhich is togreèttheeye around; and its plan, the form of the gridiron whereonthe saint expired,thatofthe tastewhich projectedit, and the pleasingrefiections, for ideas should harmonize in combinaüon" whichit .mustgive bir~h to. AtSaintIldefonsowater-worksare seenin their full proje.ctilepo,ver; andtherethèartist may boast.the ~ùique successofhaving compounded tree8, rocks,·and water, insuch awell capable efcoinpensating the manof taste for a visit to this part of the world.He will here find masterpiecesfrom artists ~vhosenames may have hardly reached him, notgeneraHyknown specimens of theil~ art, from those of celebrity. Thef~imous' picture of Nuestra Sinora del Pez, whichrivals, and, in theopinion of the most consummate cognoscenti, excels the Transfiguration,aS. a" scienti6c piece of the art, withbut the splendour possessed by theother, is sOln.ew,hat injured by the warping of the boards of larch,"v:nereonitis p~itlt,ec1.This circl)mstall·ce, of its having been painted6n wood:,shoftlld haveprevented: it frombeing placed in. sov.ariableal c1imate as this· of th~Escl)rial.The disquisition up0n tlais picturein Pons's work, atreatise' U>p.Oll> painting, in itselflongas ft disquisition,butcompendious asa tfeatise, was written by Joseph Henry, Esq.ot: Straftanin Ireland, and has'been translated, from the j~ldgementand taste conveyed in it, into the Spanish language. It is fullyadequate, and it is probably also reqpisite, for the pm'pose of puttingdu]y in its just and strong point of view, the super1at~ve merit of this

to~TRÀ"\TELS IN EUROPE.greatpetformance, which ttàm varions !peà:sons,tbe predominant ;onetvhereof is probably the tW

MANIiFAûTURE OF MIRRORS.lOSNàfureever presents novelty, and novelty intel~est.too,ought ever to be upon the stretch.is least to be expected.Human effort,It is found so here, where itThe affairs of this world often astonish us."\tVho would have thought of meeting in, mountains remote hundredsofmiles from water-earriage, in a country in the best of whichland ...carriage isahilost nuHity;with>aflourishing manufactureof mirror's! equa1ling in dimensibns or surpassingthose of Venlee.Such athing being however here, it will be of course concluded thatthe institution was equaJ to what has 'been produced, that establishmentand science went hand in hand, and that princely munificence;sruge forecast, and patriotie sentiment, pervaded thewhole froUl the first,an(:l acted in concert.-.....-..-Mark how a plain tale must put al1this dowmJohn Dowling, a land-surveyor*, of the COt.lillty of Carlo'\y in'rrela:nd~Wàs invited,-:by hisstars~intoSpainearly in life, stU'mble

1{)4 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.artièle of trade, for here is no land-carriage, but of magnificenêe!Thus, too, this sumptuous and profuse article of royal furniture is aHsupplied by the invention nearly of.one man!For although Ml'. Twisshas asserted, for what reason iris impossible ,to conceive, tbat the wOl'kîhencame from Birmingham; J\Ir. Dowling, in contradictionto thisstatement, positively declares, tbat not an English subjectwas ever yetin his employment.Could :!\rIr. Twiss'" have been deceivedby, theenergy of the spirit of)abour which the artisans have caught hefe?, Ina country wher~ the arts of life were inanydegree established, such aproc~dure could, it is obvious, have no more taken place than it could',iL':have been required. The undertaker of a rtew speéulati8n, evenalthough he came From afar, which to the human minci is much, andwas thought to possess skill ln proportion as he \Vas alieu, still, had heappeared to hesitate, a proof tantamount to a moral conviction, wouldhave been criticized; and weknow there is but one step from that tocondemnation.scope.Here the projector's genius was aHowed fair play andWhenhe discovered anen'or in the process, as he went on in it,he put it to right; and this, which is ~fact, indeed, tao much to hishonour not to be admitted and avowed by him, proves how perfectlythe whole \Vas the produce ofhis o\Vn resources.Animadversion nVlstever check the energies of a single mind. " But this, if left undivertedand unchilled by repression, will proceed the most rapidly and effectuallyto the attainment of an object, the superstructure ofits own efforts,jf otherwise possessed of the disposaI of manual aid.]VIl'. Dowling now lives comfortably in Madrit, upon a pension,allowed him by government, competent to his wants, but by no meansupon a scale of any proportion in the \Vay of justice and liberality,, which is the more observable because the Spanish government js Inclinedto act with dignity ill its distributiqns. He il$ as plain in hismanners as whenhe lefthis owncountl'Y, unassuming, and apparently

DOMESTIOHN::&lTS> OF THESPANIARDS. 1,05\IinColl$piou,$ JofJ'l&vingperformed any thing~xtriprdinary..position triayhave affected his fortunes.)(This dis­Yet it is probable he has.keptwithin this country at least a million sterling of money.There aresorne services that cannot he renjunerated on a seale proportionable totheil' tnerits. If. a man and. his fa1'r.lily are placed beyond the reach·.funeasineess on thesl,lbjectof the~~lls of life~ for him and his? they areput in· posses8'ioti of the most substantial happinessthis worJ~ affords.So far these services have heenremunerated. Although Spain' lUcerta.in points1of vÎew, a pOOT.country, it wiU he fo;und, as dailyexperiencewill teach the sojourner, byn() means a cheap one~gentlellan, who has no' children, lives é'Qmfortably, an~Thiscertainly coutentedly,bimself,his·wife,.. and theil' two servants, the whole menage,.ona.bout four hundred powbds

100 'l'RAVELS IN EUROPE.mosqtlitas~ uutil ah

gPANfS.I1 OIIARACTElt", 107tÎ;es.o~?::tf>nlip6rature; hastens to leave bouses t1ie Q!iPly de~,no.l:of whichagainstsùch a climate conslsts in paper windows, and where thE1;onlyrcsource is cowering ove1' thepestiferous brazero, which the Splniard,envélopeùin!/his cloak,rarelydeigns to approach. vVe have lloticedhimat ll'iJstâbleabove the wants.atlfa gr~tifications of othe!' men. St:i'll,f:t tr:tlestoic, heap!peafi eq:u;ally u;paffected bye.iXteriurassault, perfectlyresignet to wbat hecannot mend, a climate and the seas it, his habits of œconomicallife, aIl hold tast tooFteRlorallink,.......the digtlityof man. ln the article of œcollomics, iti~it~beobsel7\~eà, tl1e8paniarà's tabl~ is lit5ally hisboard. In wayA~lbe«>~~ng;tWi(j)ttfesselssl1ppo:rtabu11dleof cane 1'Od8,. spreadout toHis:1/f A.bout>thé>tSitios,ànd alsoin towns, is seen here and there written oyer the ddor ..of a privatèbous.e, ".Agui s,c~uisa;dfJ. cpm(!r,"" Bere food is dressed;" indicating that ~. man who hasroouey in bis poeket is insured against starving for so much. A.t the price of about four reais, aip\ttteofthisby?no mèans nl.i.!~ps~d';\gui$âdQistbeterm) fare, perhaps sheep's tongues stewed,.>with brf\ad,is obt~ined,()r;seut,;"h~f~re(!uiJ;e? This, e!\ten by the gloom of a larnp, and washeddown by a glass of .~ater,;~o~stitut~sthe evening cornforts of a philosophie Spaniard, who would.. eotlsiderthe ·imputation ofennuiundcl' sneh cireumstancesan insult. He affûrds the only instanceV1..1n~It1~nmitu;r~ of that înestimablepossession, indcpendence, wbi,ch, unless it cxists in the mincI. . • . .. . t'IN . ,is to be sought in vain, belollging to man; nnsupported and tmfofltel'ed by the aidand resource ofliterature.l' 2

108 TRAVEL~ IN EUROPE.',rec:e1r1~ 0.1' ~Jema thin mattress, a pair of sheets, and a cQverlet:such is aU required for this comfort of life. These Jight materialsareeasily'frolled oft~ and put de c6té fOf, the day; then the apartment"becdtnes as fit as any ~othef for general purposes. tobf?dding;,on the route;' the traveller be sa~fsfiedwith a .pair,of sheets, ;:1mongthe other requisites found, and 100klJ@ further, he will usually nleet his'wish; s1iliüuld he be possessed by a ,troublesome s."it o(~~investi:"gation, he had bettêr carry hisown. This iS'llapointwhich the;na,t~\";etakes little interest in : but weshallhereafterhave,oc,casion to takehimin this point ofw1fiew, sure everto:findhim,the same man.But to the pres~nt, to:mountain scenery. The mont)1S,()fthe winter solstice are by no means the season to,enjoy these enchantinglandscapes; that is, so much of them as has escaped thelaqerating andindelible hand of PalatiaI taste.This tract does not appear Jo havebeen everduly explored geologically. lts,bptany would probably,ina qonsid~rable measure, çorrespond with"Qllr la.titude

.',;; 1SINGD'LAlt PHlEN'ÛMENA. 109Mr.+Dowlinp;, whopassed many yeaTs of his life in and al$utSt.fooso, in the course of adverting td the progress of his manufactory,had frequentlY,~eeneye-witnesSitto a very surprising occurrence he~:+!+ .deerswal1o\vill! l,ive serpents. He describes the fact as foUow§K;LThe cleer, after Qiscovering,e:s;amib:~ th~ serpent for sorne .tirne;hethen l'laces bath his fore feet sucqessively on it, standingsomewhatstraddling, so as"to keep the reptile distended to its utm(jstl~n_h. Hehas probably in the first instance secù:ued the head. Th~ deer then putshis mouth downto the middle of. the snake, thereby taking it in; andthen raising his head and neck ta a horizontallevel withlüs body, andpfotlmàing his chin soas to, make his head align withhe apl'earstOSUCK the.sI)ake down double, moving the jaws for the purpose~but not chewiiog; thehead,and taU ofthe reptile, writhing, being thelastparts ofit seen.'1'hisstFange appetite and extraordinary pnoéessMr. Dowling hacl seen numerous instances of"It bring1' to mind the" Cervi pasti serpe11re rrtedulla" (a necromanticalingredient) of.the poet.,Another incident in natural history, no~ altogether unaccount..able" but rather uncommon tu, obsetvation, i.san e,e-witness too,the cOI)lmunicati

110 , TRAVELStN EUROPE.lSlilll)otVer, '8;cowering foae1, ànd dies by it.POOl bird 1 EtHe à\vare ofhis dan~er, and apparentJyfaireno'tigh froll~any being, as mtlch beyondthe l'each of net'or gun us' of the 'do~tor'spill, to appearance,be issllî'~ltte:n uH ut once by a glance of ah eye, and falls prey to fasei-As if plunet"struck, or rather drawn by an Irresistible attractioniMo a vortex, it advances to meet its fate, or flutters against theoverpowering Impulse, ·u.ntil, at lengtb, the tragedy isconcluded by its.1lescendihg intd'willthetnouth of the persevering quadtuped" \vhose exertio~~~onfin(il:sitself, a good exemplification of the power inflexibilityéan give tofeebJeness, to keeping his eyeinvariably directed to his object.herêto, thecatching of this pOOl' bird by mirrors is butan imitation of theprocess of Nature, who, we see here, as elsewhere, hasprovided the animaIs the most wretched that she has sent~ntothe world,,vith the means of taking care of themselves, if duly exerted, while init. Acat possessês a somewhatsimilar power over the birdspecies, asprobabJy also does tne snake. And a likè procedure lS observed totake place wflb the spider and his preythe fiy.severity of a Segovian wintèr is not to he judged of by any hardshipthat can he exr~~ienced in the nort11 of Europe. But tlltw iscolder than frost. Bereoccurs Frost enough to charge the air with éold,but not énollgh to put that cold ih action.The winter here is a continuaIstruggle between these two contending principles; frost bringingit no dryness, its antagonist thaw bringing no warrnth.sufficient to say that winter reignshere.It i8 DotHe reigns in Russia, hutberehe never rests. His sceptre is wielded as a'~~ivelyas absolutely, andcertainly he has rnqft loyal and acquiescing subjects.He is master ofw~~hin d~.ors as weIl as withollt. The architecture of the d·~~trict, atleast~!'i~S~ôhforn1ablewith sncb a principle. The windows arenotco{~structedeitner to ·âdmit liglltor exclude\\\eather; two qualifications

THE ROYAL.we think ~Olll~}vh~t n~c~ssary in such a ~ountry. ln factruçlethem;selves in vain. 1j~le life qf tgep0;{)T .garde,s d.e çorps,d\l~ing aJl ttti~procedure, ï~ \Vl'etched beyond descriptiqn. His majesty, under tb~i;egis of c1Qthing, wherein he secures bimself, as many-folded as theshield of ~\jax, and judiciously too, in part, of the sameAjlllaterials, forleather enters partiaJly into the cOl:nposition of it, may brave the st'l!'~and ieet, ~xposed to "\y1lÎc9 he w;;tits, the image of Patience, seven h6ur~wi~h his' gHl1 in his ha,nd, for the game aroused tq pass the ordeill of hi~aJm. 13ut .dqr\ng this time the poorga,rde dej,~Qrp8, ul1cloked, sits il}squaqron (if th~ rima,ge of Patience, certainly not el1titled to the pal~ofit,) shivering on his horse, and l'eturnsat night (th.is noble- or Q·etl.i~man)to the wx:etched pittance his few l'cals ofpay can procure L~im, inthe dearest spot perhapsearth, (Lnd then i$ obliged to betake him.self to his bed, From meredestituti~n of fi~0e and candle-light. The·warfare his 1I1ajesty has so long and so successfull,~rwagedanimalsfe1'œ naturœ, the beasts of the forests, is well knowHi~againstThe north-­ern hero fed the raven; Charles the Thi-GQ fceds the monar~h 5f the~. . t

112 tUROPE.ror.,..,.:rf!!lIt is impossible to conceive, hardly to believe the senses, in te·gara to/~the extent of the olfactorỵ..• powers........................•pf...·the.se birds, or the. rapi-. . . . " .,'. . . .,',' ·~t}):'!)(0i*:'.... ." . . . .ditY and diffusion of those particles}:>y \vlùch they are affeeted. In-litt}e more than five minutes from the time the quarry ofgame is opened,their intestines exposed, the eagles are seen urging on theh' app1'oachof flight, from the remotest verge of the horizon within humanken.Two battalions of Catalonian light infantry, called here Mignones,are employed iQiliwibeating up theganle for the royal amusement.,

PUBLIC M LI NG AT THE RITIOS. J13niaI conc1nding with the termination of the file.Speaking mere!" ofcircnmstances, and without q6\,pe smallest intent ofdisparagement ta persans,the life of the royal palace of this truly great nation is very likethat of animaIs in a menagerie, certainly not more intellectual.Theyare shawn, ,at meals ~,to such as come ta look at them. At other ti:}';;~?'t, " " " "',.. .". '. . " .each remaihs within a respective ceU. And this state of things pervadesover aIl the inmates of these vast buildings. The ladies of the court,highly respectable personages, several still of Irish desftmt,receive theityisitors each at the entrance of her apartment. Indeed .;~t besomewhat a point of etiquette here, that dnring this agreeable parleythe lady visited should hold the door in her hand, by way of a delicatehint ta the gentleman that he .cannat make his visit tao short; and itmay readHy bi conc1uded t~at, as the hanour of the thing alone undersuch acirenmstallce can be the indueement, prolixity is a matterhardlyto be apprehended. It maybe asked here, how people, permanent residents,pass their time, or if there are no resources amongst them ? In:mentioning the listless destitution in which the pOOl' gardes de corpsare left, perhaps thé nullity there assigned wonId be a less palpable defale.ion,than the substitute whieh, in point of strict eorrectness, itmaybe propel' ta insert.Here is aceess-'-free ta. them-to a theatre"where mèn,ha'f'bons, whose faces have been long vallaneed, aet the partsof women!! 1\s theatrical exhibitions cannat take place without light,and this blessing of life is here attaioable ta these gentlemen,free* This strange illfliction upon;rg.yaltydid more harm to the lamented Louis XVI. thall moreserious matters, 01' than thosecan imagine who were not iJ1"the way to observe occurrences nowbetter not recorqed. How often.do people avail themselves of the sUfljrior powers of pmate life toarder even their domestic servants out of the room! These are no times 101 indivlduals to hejeetto indiscriminate eriticism then; to the wanton and emulous malignity of mankil1d. The office off:cuyer tranchant, and itscollateral conferences of dignit};;, being uow.ohsolete, why ldhere to theinutile ligm,m, whieh produced no fruit save contempt?

114 TRAVELS IN EUROP~.pense; those whosé nerves are adequate to the stlstaining the sight ofthe wl'ongs here inflicted upon poets and l~uman nature, col1ect in theevenipg for the purpose. The infliction upon the speetatorS must het~,;heavier, as the Spaniards have a vehement taste for theatrical ex:..hi8Îtions. Many of these military gentlemen too are Flamands, andhave a recollection of the good things of life they left at home in theirowncountry.l\fanyagain are Irish, who have no such datum to foundarecollection on~ So much for public exhibition, to etilargethesbopeof themind and influence public manners (for the better, of course,) atthe Sitios!The rallying point in theday-time for the sojourners here, is the hoûrwhen his majesty sits down to his solitary and temperate dinner; onenot to be envied bya hel'mit in its substantials, any more than in itsconcomitants.For the l'est, the mornings are passed in saunteril1gabout the piazzas and corridors in cloaks; the :evenings in gldoIllY visitsin apartments. A distinguished individual'fuay ha1fè'aneveningpartywhereease prevails: hut this is a gratification few can attaÎn. Thecorps diplomatique takes good care to make up a pleasant society foritself.Herê is a coffee-house upon a smaH scale, where the usual refreshmentsare obtained, and the use of the liquor by us called ponchwouId seem to b0gin somewhat to prevail over national abstemiousness.But the fact is, thât it is a foreign taste, 'and onJy upheld by foreigninfluence.No Spaniard ever becomes what .is called a steady toper.The stable establishment of royalty, upou the national plan, is, asweIl as the military, conducted on principles ratner new to us.itorses are as closely packed, side by side, up to the mangers, as livestockin a ship; and cannot lie down ; indeed never do.This Wôuld bethought a syste~n tending diréctly to founder our horses; butthese do

MODE OF PLACING.>.Q;RS·.ES'IN A STABLE-SEGOVIA. 115Dot appeartosuffer by it.An animal which can go through the extentofitsexistence,appropriating so very small a portion of the time to repose,ofanydescription, was evidently intended for açtion beyond whatthe mere dictates of its nature instigate or daim:.the cavalry meet their fatein amphithe::'ltric warfare.The cast horses ofAs the contest isattended with about. equal 10ss, it is p.robable,could the combatantsspeak, each would do it with equal exultation ofsuccess. As,however,the parties concerned are not the tellers of their own stories, a correctestimate may be made of the gains and losses of such a campaign asthisis.--But to return to the point digressed from.Be it now finally();bse.rved, that of the ,many veterans of the species int.roduced uponthea1:ena, very few appear foundered in the feet or shaken in the shoulders;s.o that itm~ay beconc.luded, however contrary it may appeaJ: tothe ordinary process ofIla1ure, and actuaUy is to ç>ur ideasand.practice,that the system does not injure the animal.SEGOVIA, as seated in this district, i~.the centre of the wool..trade,arid pere, in the prùperseason, is the place to view the important pro..cesses ofthe mesta system; as extraordinarya branch of statistics as theworld can produce, and almost as useful abroad as destructive at home.Muc;h and variety of matter is furnished in this interesting neighbourhoodtoThe mesta, although a derivative, has becomeuponSpain, as any of those radicllI ones thie .ac-, cumulation wh~reof now grindsher Îlato dust.Mischief toIler growsout of this introdu~ed grievance· in every.shape.'rhe denudation ofwood ensuing upal) it is no trifling one; for it, bas admittedly influence&p, cdesiccation thee~~mate. Tlte shepherd claims by right to eut, duringhis ramhIcs, one branch fl:0111 every tree; tO make his f!ancJw or hut.rrhe effect hereof is obvious to the mind and the eye.be.tter for the community to construct villas for them..Q2It wonld beInvestigators-

116 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.are not agreed a& to the origin of this mesta system.Perhaps thereaJtap-root of it is to be traced in the tendency of alliand proprietors tostock rather than pOpu1ilte or till their lands :-all would be shepherd..kings. The same principle prevailed in England; and hence the inclosingsystem, so little to be expected and 80 beneficial in its result, wasderived.No such good consequence has been derh'ed here, and itseffect is directJy contrary.U nfortunately Spain seems ta have a tendencyto devolve upon erroneous statistical principles. England,atthat time, had not a funded capital for thrift to dUiOW its. accretionsinto; nor had nor has Spain; nor is it the disposition of the people hereto acctll,nulate in that way. CaUle is capital (pecus et oves, pecunia etopes); its increase is the compound interest of that capital. The manwho has aIl his life, or whose predecessors, as an example to him, havedealt in live stock, prefers it to paper stock; just as much as the citi..zen prefers his compact and manageable mode of tenure. But theworld can no longer submit to therule of shepherd...kings. They are asobnoxious to national wealth in the present day,. as they were odious tothe Egyptians ofold. Feecling is now but ancillary to tillage. 1t is bythe plough, and the capital which sets it going, that nations are tothrive and prosper.A plagne, and the expatriation of the industriousand agriculturai Moors, laid Spain iuto a sheep~waJk.Thus both physicaland moral evî1 have co-operated; but stiJl the system wouJd havebeen inconc1usive, had it not been sustained by s!Jstematic bad policy.Here we enter upon the long and black catalogue of the evils of thisaffiicted nation.lt may/be alleged that these two devastations, what...ever effect they may halTe had elsewhere, couldhave effected littleinthose tra.cts consigned to the mesta;which having been solong tbetheatre of intestine warfare, were in astate hardly capable of· deterioration.Thj~ is true so far as it goes. Even the word meri1zo i5 not

SPANISlI IHIEEP, ETC. 117altogetheretY1llo1ogized. There seems not a doubt that the breed camefmm beyond s.ea, to Spain, hy the return of the galleons, when shepeaded Europe as a trading nation, and that they were then what wenow sec UpOl1 our Coteswold hills. The English fleece was then light.Shakspeare,.whom nothing escaped, ;:tnd" en outre, whose father was awool..stapler, tells us, "every eleventh wether tods." Such is the cal..culation of his farmer's son, and he would hardly have put an inaccu..rac'y into his mouth. 'l'his brings the fleece ta about two pounds anda half; light clothing for a wether in the present day. The tenu me..rino is evidently in contradistinction to the home breed, and they wereobviously sought after from the superiorityof the fieece. They judi..ciously,or perhaps fortunately, ass:imilated their c1imate to them; forthatwhich they, under regulation, enjoy, perfectly resembles the softerand more humid atmospheres of England. Still, however, from thegreat e1evation of the summer tracts, the air is so sharp that, if they benot housed after shearinp;, many ewes perish,-justas would be the casewith us if the weather sbould take a severe turn at that time. This isin the mountain stations, for the winter in Estremadura is about what ahumid autumn is in England in point of sensation. The thermometeris not a perfectly conclusive criterion upon tbis point. Equation ofc1imate i8 wbatpro.d,uces finenes80f quality; extremes running it tocoa.r8eli;ElS8; andequation i8 obtained for it here by the mestlJ,system, p;.vid ];Jinst be admitted, a great.deal too dear.Tillage, as repeatedly observed, is the true basis of all.$tatistics andœconomic8; and the .fieece, or marketsupplY,,,ought, as much as Inanufa,ctnreand COI1lme'lCc.e".to he engrafted thereon. If the others take thelead to itsdetriment, thestateevery where sufFers, thOllgh not al waysperhaps. to the.extent as here in Spain, where the evil is sa deeplyfooted in the most incurable place, the heads of the people, and 80

118 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.concatenated with othel' misdl1efs in its progœss, that nothing butanatural or political convulsion could eradicate it.And its operationsat second hand go consirlerably in aid of the other political evils ofthis iII-fated country.Pons, and more especially Bowles, are communicativeon this subject, so far as their vièws of it reach; a point considerably,howevel', short of its extent or range, of which they were bynomeans duly apprised.Epidemy and emigl'ation could not have donewhat we see, had not the very constitution of the 8tate,. th€;~lay.q'l'azgosystem, the jus majoratus, lent ils p.owerful aid. Thisis the true nurse,if the expression be allowable, ofdepopulation.Although Spain neverrecovered the effects of the plague of the fourteenth century, yet inMohammedan countries, otherwise politically constituted, this scourgeis hardly to he traced after the short lapse of thirty years.Before thesuhject of the merinos is dismissed, of which travellers to the latest dayhave yet left a considerable quantity of matter behind them, let somenotice be taken of the appetite of this animal for salt. Nature tnusthave a meaning in it. lt is much diminished when the Bock arrivesfrom an argillaceous upon a calcareous soil, which of course contains,quoad them, a substitute for the mineraI, and is congenial to theconstitutionof the sheep.On the former it becomes ravenous for this substance.Theil' allowance is increased or diminished accordingly. Pigeons,it is well known, possess a similar propensityfor both substances.Where they cannot get salt they pick lime.This is matterhumbly sub-',mitted to the consideration of those liable to heavy losses in theirflocks by the rot; an evil not known in Ireland,where the soil 1s chieflycalcareous.'fhe merinos are considercd to bepartof:the staple wealthof Spain, and undouhtedly are far more effieient,in>their returns thanher ~olonies. 'fhey constitnte, too, the greatest private revenues. Yetit is by no means cIeal', on calculation, aprocessfarmers of the superior

DISADV ANTAGES(j'F THE SHRPBERD SYSTEM. 119classes oflife!àûê(byno means fond of entering on, that the proprietormâlt:esashilHng of ourmoney a head annually of his Rock.In theCastiIles and Arragon but one house is seen in the coùrse of a day's tra:.veUing.In Estremadura the case is said to be very little improved.Such is the IÔsinggame this nation continues for o.thers, thankle~s,thri,re by.For amelioration severai things arenecessary;a knowledgeof the evil, and a discovery, andpos&ession of a rernedy; and aIl arehere equ~l1y remote.Hence, unless the hand of Providence interfere,national amendment in its political concerns must he left aIl to timeand the chapter of accidents.InternaI consumption, however, it isevident froUl the modes ofthe people, canhave very little effect on thewool.tr.àde. Thatof the upper classes is very triRing. The beau himselfis more distingllishedby the splendour arid massiveness of hisbuckles, the Iength of the quarters of his shoes, thanby the varietyandstrength of his wardrobe.Except the winter cloak, too, this wardrobeis composed of other matel'ials than those whièh the Rocks supply.the way, it is cnrions toobserve the penchant of the men of aIl agesbere for the most gay and Rnttering drapery.toEy'Vhen a female dare notappear in the streets, unless under danger of being. mohhed, withoutherJupon. nO~l'flndi veil,.sexagenaries of the male sex Raunt about in lightsilks, asth3t is, nntiJ thegrim visage shows itself, as80 out bya SUfl1mer'S day. rrhey choose, t'ùB,the 11).ostcolours; pink and sky bluel'J}'hhs tIleyarc often seeu in '\veatheriwhich'wonld drive the e1fenHnat~hypeI:boreanto his lower classes, ,'vith single exceptiibnofthecloal\,. pélting& ormany winters jthe conslitrnptionof woollën, trifling ihdeed. The stl!>cking tnanuf~lCtory,which takes off such a quantity ofonr coarse material, is obviouslya nullity.in Spain. rrhe pea~ant, \rith reaSOH, prefers palmira

120 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.sandals to shoes; and leggings cut out of an old clOàk, there, are moreeligible than stockings.regular demand.And how trivial must this be,compa~ed to the enormousweight of the sheep stock!Thus the army remains the on1y internai andHow invariably must the commercialsystem of Spain operate to internaI deterioration!The shepherdclass is fain to take his clothing, hide and ail, as the animal bequeathsit, scorning to cali in the aid of manufacture. By the dexterityofthese men with their slings, they should be a fragment of the Balearicstock of old. They say kings have long bands; and sucb the Spanishflock finds to he the case with its lord and master. The shepherd, too,equals his dog in vigilance and activity, the dog his master in judgementand sagacity.In short, the system, when taken to pieces, and viewedin its çomponent parts, or put together anJ viewed as a whole, is equallywonderful.Considered as mutton, the 'produce of the merino flock,poor as it i8, is adequate to what is wanted for people who desire nobetter. The genius oftheir cuisine does not require it. A naval officer,however, here, whose stock of patience bad probably been exhaustedby an anfractuous attendance at court, after a laborious and tediousstruggle with a joint of St. Ildefonso mutton, which was placed heforehim for his dinner, renounced the contest at last in despair, with theexpression, " M'ucho trabaxo y poco provecho;" analogous to our phrase," Much cry and little wool,"-the shearing the hog. An English farmermight he stimulated by curiosity to ask a question relative to the stateof the taIJow trade in a country of which sheep constitute so great aportion of tbe statistic; and in his fir3t visit to Madrit, with tbree millionsof merinos in his recol1ection, would probably be rather surprised tofind that money was sent out of the country to procure such an articleas suet. Yet such is the case, and to a considera'ble extent, judging bythe number of affiches up in the c~pital and'elsewhere~ announcing

~ADRI T, ETC., 1~1that "Agui se 'Vende cebo de Flandes " or " de Olanda." --" Here is soldFlemish or Dutch suet." 80 that the merchant's and tradesman'sprofit, and sea and land carriage expenses, are imposed upon an (économicarticle, which the hills within view of Madrit ar~ competent to theproduction of! FinaUy: for Spain to thrive, she should reduce her sheepestablishment within due limifs.rraking leave of the mountainous tract, D'IOre particularly Segovia,the head-quarters of the artillery, for which service there appears adifficulty of obtaining men sufficiently ta11, (for the standard here wouldhe qy no means considered adequate any where else in Europe,) and ofits elegant Al Kasr, now appropriated to the use of a military academy,to which it is not characteristically or otherwise adapted; Madritis to' he taken in theroute for the south of Spain, whitheI: nowboth time and season imperatively calI.Madrit, December 1784~-This city is best visited in summer, anda mountain excursion will be the most gratifying part of the visitethat season here the nights are delightful, beyond any idea that can beformed in other climates, and the heats of day are not more than whata traveller makes up bis mind to, when he enters these latitudes.The main desiderata of Madrit are fuel and water; rather necessaryingredients in human œconomics, in a situation so very subject to theinconvenient ,extrem,es 'and transitions of heat and cold. A handsomebridge shciuld indi6ate a river; but it requires some activity of investigation,even with this clue, to discover if. " lts dimensions to one ofthick sight areinvisible." A,wit (for th~se pests of societyexist (fverywhere) has told us, in epigraql, that one day p.:lissing the Manzanares,on casting his eyes up its bed, he found an ass had drunk it dry! Ifwater be not, however, ,good wine is, found,which is therefore done.Atby crossing this bridge;This is only noticeable as illustrative of theR

1~''l'RAVELS IN EUROPE.state of things-two miles intervening betweena naan's dinne!' and hiswine! Probably 80 much the better for him, were it.alwaJs so; butelsewherehe woùld find things·muchIJ}]}ore conveniently.allotted him"for hismoney. Itmay easily be supposedthat milkforms an item in th.ecatalogueofMadrit desiderata. .An Englishtraveller andw.riter oftravels niadethe 6rst c1aim ofhospitality in a house, on presentingJliscredentials, fOf a.draught of milk, forgetting he was notin patriarchallife.This was inautumn {too. '.rheTemark ofthe ladyin speaking ..ofthe occu~ren.ce(notthe ·lady whosenamehe hasso u,np;allan.t1y, bLJt Jl.nquestionably. iono-. cicently, brought befarethe pùblic) Wi;l,,s;,,ttlat she must have been thoughtby herguœta most'vile chur!; forshe was obliged to t€ill him sht) couldas soon,at thatseason, find the philosopher:'s stone. As suet is theproduce, so the ,butter here is of thé Iimnufacture, of HoUand. It isasserted, that the Dutch purchase the damaged Irish butter, restoreit by the use of sugar of lead,and re-exportit.Tlüs town isindeed ardreadfulChristmas stationfor.those who knowthecomfortsof ,the "North. of Europe.. 81e.et .and rain, cutting windsa'nd hail, damp c1othiog, stonefi.oors,..and ill-shut windows, with nocomfortable chÎJnney-corner or sea-coal blaze torun to l~al1togetherpresent a verycheerlesswinter picture. Not four hous.es in l\1:adritpOssess thatluxurywe calI a. fire-place.One €ndowed with this blessingisa hotel; andforeigners ding about it like fiies to a stove.Theycontrive to procure sorne billet-woodata.n enonnous rate and~in s

T'8'ES~ANISHKITCHEN.plap (for ;cjVery tbing, however absurd, must have its reason) is, that thenoise,unquestionably loo mueh for humanears, overpowers even those,of the wolves,pabituated as they must be by theirown howlings to thekey, and frightens them off from· attaeking the cattle. .Hut it is a rem-.nant of Scythiancustom and Scythian pride, which to tllis day piquesitselfupoJ;1 makingsome noise, nG matt~rwhat, in its progressthrough the world, anq adopts, or at least makes aboast of, this.So wretched a system of land earriage must, as may be supposed, makefuel arcostly artic1e in this capital. En revanche, very litt1e orit lS used.Culinaryoperatipns are carried on in the garrets.A few stew-holes,olle;for the puehero, containing. some sliees or rather bont~s of meat,fowI, bae

TRAVELS IN EUROPE.,hattery; they are green in the inside, and are far more llnequaI in qnalitYthan those the produce of our gardens at home.But as they aresold fo~ next to not.hing, if one in three turn out good they are a cheaparticle, and within the reach of almost every one.The Spani-ards,whom Nature formed gay, and morais rendered grave, though it cannotbe said phlegmatic, have a strong relish for theatri~alamusements;for music, both national and exotic; for humour,and more particularlyfor that t,Jranch of it which we vu]gar~y caU slang. Bars,almost insuperable, exist as to either the gratification or rennementof the public taste.Among their modern pieces, the fable of onetums upon the hadm~yed subject of an impostor;-a pretended manof family ànd fortnne, who offers himself to an heiress. This is band:ledin a pecuJiar manner in one respect, which instances a curious latenttmit of nationality.He is discovered of course, and the contrast ofdegradation is sunk as deep as possible; but how? by making him-·ashoemake1'!Who could dream of meeting the ancient Egyptianàntipathyto Jhe cutter or" a skin in modern Spain!-But to revert,Female parts are acted by boys, to this day, ~ntiland even after.their voices crack:'Vond~rful it is, but we frequently see and hear thesentiments delivered by them lvith an expression and justness whichexcite regret that they should evèr outgrow their trade.It is unaccountablehow much superior the acting of that period of life here isto any other branch of the profession >'t'o,The gracieu,r:, the buffoon inanother word, is a very conspicuous and active personage, as is too thearch enemy of mankind, whose costume is very original; black, wi,th al'ed sasb.He is tolerably ostensible in the comedy of an unknawn* When a Spanish actor cornes to what may be termed recitation,(although his audience mightexclaim here, with Polonius, " This is too long,") he delivers it with great justness; 'and of thisthe audience, by its applaUlle~ possesses a full sensation......This is a. favourable symptom.

THE DRAMA. 125autbor,elltitled El Diablo Predicador, The Devilin the Pulpit *. Thenumerous writers on theatrieal' subjeets, and their voluminous works,provetlle strong natura} penchant in this direction.Hm..- eomes itthenthat so liUle progress has been made in a braneh of human morals so1important; one whieh caUs for the ~tatesman's fosterage, the patriot'scountenance? As ta tragi.eomedy,it is tao analogons to human lifenot to be popular with every people not absurd enough tosnaekle themselvesunder arhitrary rules about being pleased.Of course it predominatesonthe Spanish theatre.The state of pravity or refinementof a people is to he judged of by what they applaud on a theatre,where the emotion may he gratified unanimadverted on.Actors knowtoo,right weIl, what will hit that which they are pleased t6 cart publictaste, and are little serupulous as ta the moral of what they expect willexcite a plauditory noise. They oùght, nowever, tareeolleet how mnch ofthe prevalence ofgond or evil through the community depends on them.Nothing particularly gross is to be eomplained of in this point of viewhere in Spain.But the non-appearanee of the first classes of societyat the theatreshere, is a substantial matter of censure.'.Phe counte-;kt, Literature, and the sta.te of literature, every wherè, from i,ts dawning, is of too great consequence,Dot 1to caU for thenrstadvertence in aH who volunteer in the service of the grand caUSe ofthe welfare ofhumannature. The theatre affords the most difthsive mode of conveying, as weHas themost comprehensive means ofjudging, public moral ta.~te. The circumstances of this compositionhere meutioned are peculiar., It does notappear to have been read by Laborde. Peyron,a French travel~er, has given it ta the French public, judiciously curtaiIed of some diffuse andverbose discussive ,scenes" of a description chal'acteristic too of the Spanish drama; but as utterlyremote from generaI ta.'Jte, as' from t~e,subject ,itsélf. Peyron's work, through Spanislz iuterference,was suppressed at Paris. It is, impos~ibte to account for such an Interference, for thework has nothing in the sHghtest degree offe~lsive in it. Could the Inquisition have been meddlinghere, and could this curions and èxtraordinary performance have been the inducement to it to dotio? ' The question must he left as itis.-As to the playitself, it is proilueed as a strong specimenof three qualities very stt'ongly engrafted in the human mind in Spain~-energy of thought,delicacy of sentiment, and low humour.

126 TRAVELSI:NR'UROPE.nance of government it~elf could not convey due support with()uttbeirassistance,. and it is .not given.The obstacles to this and al! otherliteraryimprovements are to be fouQÇi: in two qeep-se.ated and powerfulcauses; in religion,. and politics: iJlan inquisition, and a Foreign dy..,nasty*: in a busy and meddling spirit of interference in the one, in a, . tdread of aught carrying the appearance ofnationality in the other.The steps taken, however, to :Frenchify (by way of Bourbonizipg).8pain,are not very seductive. It is the fashiori in}~rance:to. ~vearitriangular,in Spain to ~vear circulaI' hats. 'fhecivili~tion(:)fEl people, we know,çopsists in bringing thern. tp tlaink, 01' to say:phat they think,exactly asW'~do,mory pal'ticularlyon PQints utterly unirnportant to eitherparty;andin prevailing o~them to act like. U$, whentbeirown senses demonstrateto thern that they should do the direct.contrary.A doak and around hat are (next to a patria.fchalbeard) thestrongestproofs ofnational barbarity; and their extinction onoe .. effec~~d, thiswise.procedurewast~completelyhumanizetheuncouthdregsofGothicism andVandalism. In consequence, it wasduly proclairned, that whosoeverentered withinthe precincts of a royal Sitio should, previously theIieto,execute a geometrical processwithin those othis sombr'el'o, and modifythis sa,me,from its circulaI' fonu, into an equilateral triangle.Evenhere, in the very term is a pestilellt gall to the pOOl' Spaniard; his* Since this was written, things have compIeteIy changed upon this point. The Spaniards hlJ,veelected a ~king, a SpaIliard Iike themseIvesj and aIl will (by the grace of Divine Providence). g~ onacc()rdingly well.. A spirit of patriotism, of nationaIpride, not to besu}>pressedj becauseit isever springing up· anewj has carried them through their difflcuIties. They have pmved tothe .worIdjthat an imposed sceptre, a foreign yokej were not for them. Theirking will now feeI ide.ntifiedwith the nation he mIes, and the spiendour of the throne and }>rosperity of the. nation will consequentlyand congenially extend now~pari passu. Observations wbich a~egeneralj u}>on thingsjnotparticuIars, upon persons, !f they are worth any thing, cannot be obsolete. The deeds andscenes of the ·moment pass away with it, but mo;al is eternal.

SPANlSB PREJUDICES. 127under~tandingisas muchinsulted by the epithet, as his face is assailedby:the 8un~s rays, when obliged to feel' exposure, and caU it-shade.What maybe a very ellgirble mode at Paris, may be a very inconvenientone at Maqrit.But this the government considered as a mere trifle,or did not coliside1' it. 3Jt.all. The cloak too is the Castillian's andArld~li.uüan'spride. Muchof hiséxter{làldignity depends on it. Thistoo. w~s attacked, and the wrong wastoo great/for huma{l ceDâ uraDCe."Aye! but," say some," around hat and a c10ak giveso much the ideaof an assassin!" And why assassin? The very surmise, for imputationit cannot amount to, is insult heaped on insult!Let â man banishmalignity from his own mind, and he will no longersee assassination inth1e face of hi~ neighbour. A populacé, however, is a stubborn animal,and resentive/ofwrong. That of Madrit arose in force; and, whenroused, showed a.qreadful sanguinaryspirit, most cruelly treatingsomeunfortunate Wallon soldiers, who did no more than their dutY asordered.Indeed, the enforcement of a foreign costume by an alienmiIitary body, on a nation which deservedly classes itself among the61'8t, was a stroke of impolicy 'as glaring 'as has usnally appeared inhuman affairs.The measureswhich are brought about by unostensi.bIe, and consequently byquiet means, are not, in their very success,gratifying to humanpride. This disturbance wasproduCtiveof consequences,theeftè.ctsof which, however latent, are by no means dormant:ItGs useléssto'enter intohumiliatingdetails (any more thaoprivate aÎ1ecdotes~.;the.c.uibono.mayhe applied.to both); but Felix.i/f The greatunfortunately wilLev;erll~p'plya harvestofthis kind tosuch'as will condescend tollake and pic~ up. A passion oreu,lOti@n)displayed .Qt exp~ed, says as muchas-thatwe aU aremen-a notable discovery! Uhimportant, however) as this may seem to the eye of philosophy) itcQnveys gratification through a vast portion of human nature.

128 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.trembled before the sovereign rnob, and due carewas taken, .by' kindinterference and l'epresentation, that the shock should nevel' he recoveredfrom.1Vladrit now does not see the royal family, except for that shortperiod of the year when the ceremonies of the chureh impose the virtualnecessity, and even .then the mental impression is too obvious. Variousare the symptoms like this, adducible, that the royal family hasnever felt at home in Spain (a veryeonvenient stroke of state polieyto inculcate).Six thousand troops have ever sineè formedthe gâtrisonofMadrit, a due preponderal~ceof whieh is foreign; and this in a townto the police of which, if congeniai sElntiments prevailed between gol'crnorsand governed, one troop of cavaIry should be adequate.But, indeed, it is insufficient to say. FrElneh influence prevails in theSitios, and wherever conrt eonnection i5 established, as at Bareelona forinstance.The fact is-it glares-it is too ostensible and obtrusi.ve.Of course it is courted by aIl who wish to advance themselves in whatis calIed· the world, whic-h is as much as to say. a certain pre-assuiningdescription of the classes of society. Ridic\llous to thiliJk! Spanishliterati are found mean enough to eIldeavour to please in such a quarterby Gallicising their own Bonorous idiom 1 Such attempts must, howe"Ver,be despised by aU parties. Throughout the commonalty of the countryat large, the French are disliked ; a sentiment not,however, mingled\Vith that contempt which the Portuguese (who by the way in aH theirwars with this people had the best of the contest) excite.The Englishare respected; but the Germans, ofthe catholic creed, amalgamatebèstof any aliells with this proud people.The paucity of accommodations, the highprices aIl things comparativeJyhear, the strong nationality of the :French, infect the persons ofthat nation who come here with a sovereign contempt fOI: th.e cOUt))tr1

T'RUE' INTEREST OF SPAIN."129they>af'e in,wnich théy omit no opportunlty of declaring, and whichmaltes déep impression. Example is setthem to this effect by those ofthé uPHel' class ,vho are 'about court, who are equally, at least, or per..haps more, addicted to this, in them, mean triumph of behavipur. ltseems' as> ifthere still. existed usecret good-will to the German house,~rid ,thatit >w'as by JAlomeans ofcourseforgotten in this country.: at anyrrotie,theothers appear ,to feel it (which is one of the direc·tmethodstomake it) so. It is a matter of query if the old adage of " Quàm paucdsapientili" he applicable to the officers of this country or not. If anyof this necessary Ingredient in human measures enter, it is very deleterious}ydehased.Various circumstances concur to. corrohorate the surm'ise,/'thata:retrèat, if requisite, into France, has becn an idea afloatin themindsof>theroyalfarnily and its adyisers. Ttwas a feeling ve>ryapt ta have heen fQsteredbyBarisian suggestions. Tt is.onl,tt;)recurto Adam Smith's unquestionahle authority, to see thetrue interest ofthe Spanish govel'nment, taken in a national point of view; how stronglythe,link with England, although vested in a Bourbon family. Andcan it he supposed that French acumen was blind to this, or thatFrench acti\rity would hecorne torpid under such an idea? A great dealof w'hat otherwise unaccountable can he unravelled by this clue.Unquestiol1ab1yit was the viewof France, that Spain never shouldarouse..fr(j)'mbersnpine state; never extricate berself out of Erance'shands. ismeàrly equally so, that this reyal house has alwayscontinued tot.hinki~sstahility.in'8paindependent on :Frenchsupport.But the connexionandattacbment of France to Spainwas tllat oranincubus., to depressheraridex.hausther vitals: andit has succeeded.The though~s are unavoidahly drawn to one point, the accumulatiollof politicalevil here.Several active-minded and patriotic individualss

130 'l'RA VEI,S IN EUROPE.have, in lateryears, started up, zealous to serve their country; a senti·tnent, however depressed or sported with, which can never he totally-extinguished: for spring it will anew. But they were ignorant of thetrue principles of procedure; and opposed by such powerful, and,indeed, insurmountable obstacles, their efforts have never exceededmere speculation.No man's mind was in a state of preparation fm·lhearing, or looking firmly at, the truth of the case. A nullity as the l.ifeof the good Charles the Third must be as to state nlatters, His Majestymust possess thatquality valuable in any great man, the" laisseg fai"e,"in a considerable degree. For thosepersons whose patriotic mindsstimulated them to public investigation, and indeed action too, were infavour.But the evil is too diffusedand too deep-seated to be counter·vailedby Buch feeble efforts.It would be like the realization of thosewise speculations with which our ears areoccasionally assailed .at home,that wealth, good,order, and virtue, are the immediate de'tfivations oftheacquisition of the alphabet. Although the Bourbon princes were tooenlightened and humane to persecute, or, what is ~xac11y as bad in thoseof higb degree, to look on and let others do 50; yet the influence ofthe Inquisition has never been extinct, but has e'Ver remaine(j, on thecontrary, a dead weight uponal1 mental action.Itis not sufficient forthe mind to take its scope, that itshould know itself innocent, it is alsonecessary it should feel itself free, for useful exertion.Every writer inSpain knew that he might be questioned; and the Holy Inquisition constitutesa board of criticism, before which an author appears rather in:check.Indeed, faggots and san benitos out of the question, what acruel mortification must genius feel in being liable to be subjec.ted to,the queries of, to make explanations to, malignity and stupidity! Thisisobvious throughout the whole range of SPflnish litel'ature.Every-

STATE OF T'UE CLERGY.13twhere appears a consciousness of an impendent rod, of a certain powerto which ,deference must be paid*. Manners very essentià]ly openmen's eyes to things.If clergy can be insolent, it proves certainly thatthey possessa great dea] of power, even although the abuse exercisedby an occasÎotlal individual be no further a reflection on the body atlarge,thanthat it contains an unworthyrlllemher. When a numberofpersons who have made their appearance 'atcourt, diplomatists andothers, on retiring through the alleys and cloisters of the Escurial,(" What a place," will be perhaps exclaimed, "for a court!") and ac"cidentalJy touching the consecrated ground, are assailed by the obstre...perons cry of " Cavalleros !--Sornbreros!" froma rude ecclesiastic; itsnowsatleast that clerical dicta are next to aU;.-powerf:ul here below.In other conntries a polite hint wouid have been given, and have batlaIl theeffect. "Vhat then must be the restl1t of al1ming a body, thusestablished here, with the power of iuquiry more formidable in its ex,­tent thanthat of condemnation itself!Itscondemnations have beenrare,and for ·crimes few a,e tempted to in the present day (magic forinstance). But its power of questioning extends over aIl. U nder sud},a circumstance,how can the country.evel' be able to calI in literature toher assistance? Nothingshol't of the absolute abolition of this tribu..naicanset the public mind free in its exertion for the generalgood. lnfact,aJthough modern mmUlers have stripped the Inquisition of horrors,ît stillendéaivoufs to maintain glry. 'Ble throne is at Seville; but theinfluence pervadest~e w'h:ore kiflgdgm, as~itfless its business at Bar..celona. S(i)[uepersons.may su.ppose;, when they read ofthe horrid proceedingsof this bod'Jat the tir~le it was aHowedl full .scope to its teethand daws" that it was viewed with equai horror here; that the nation7< For somewhat more on the subjcct of Spallish literature sec Appendix.S 2

TRAVELS IN' EUROPE.gr

INFLUENCB OP THE~ INQUISITION. 133cauti6n:Îs IlOt able in~ftexiblJto preserve the incognito of consequence.'Vhen things that call for notice present themselves, on varions occurrencesin the course of society, sorne little emotion will betray,thatthere is one present, whose representations are attended to in a certainquarter. The respeètand attention this surmise procures to this saidpersonage1from the society he moves in, nourish a littleinextinguisbablevanity, and cause the secret not to be altogether so closely kept as itmight.':But a familial' of the Inquisition recognised, possesses a ton desupériorité in company, the value put on which needs not to he descantedon.strangetis.The institution has now discontinued its intcrference with:.sut a biUetor certificate of confession, of having perform­Catholidsm, is required by the established church,.from every. oneindiscriminately. But a liberalmode ofsettling this·isconceded td forelgners; more libeTal indeed than moraUydef~nsible:for by whatright can deceit, however innocent, be allowed to intervenein the course of human affairs?And the toleration, as it is called,whichrequires hurn:iliating conformity for essential differences, is amockery, and worse.Pa:lliative'S can avail nothing in a system radicallyl:md,as abuses aredften endurable in one essentiaHy good.Theforeignel"will.fFequently have the question put to him, " Are you corn­>Torwhich theanswer must be, "1 have already beenthe French are adepts in, and are ver}obligingly comttlunicative upon,to suehpersons from the North ofEuropeto 'pFèvent theirgetting 'in'toetnbarrRSsment;and at may he avoided; but it is bY'BQ means 80easily done in travelling. Tf the aniero propose mass, and anyhesitationappears, auy m~cuse is 'oi!ered, he stares as ifa doyen foot had protrudeditself before his eyes, considering conformity in this res~ect the-essential constituent qnality of human nature.'Vhile credulity can

134 TRAVRLS IN EUROPE.he made profitable as a matter of traffic, it must meet sorne encouragement;and the various entrepÔts for commerce in this article, Hie bureauxor offices open in diffêrent towns, and dispersed through thesametown, with " Aquise sacan lasanimas,"(" Here souls are redeemed outof purgatory,") superscribed, show a very s'mart trade to he dri,yen inthis way.:Military men of the 61'st distinction have been denouncedto the holy office by their inferiors, on the most frivolous accusatiolls,in diseharge of benefits conferred, too great to be repaid 0'therwisethatiby sorne black aet of ingratitude, that shou;J,à; inits effects sweep awayaIl remembrance ofthe obligation with the presence, and it might almosthe si:lid in the blood, of the donor. rrhe accusations, and those whopresented them, were treated as they deserved by the grand inquisitor,the virtuous and enlightenedarchbishop of SeviUe ;-but mark what delationis!-,~hese·men stiJl take those they have thus wronged by thehand; and appearances must he kept up, inreturn fortheir 6iffrontery,with them.And aH this the world hasbefQreit fO'f et&arn:ple, and to beinfeeted. byas $uch. No action lies for this wrong. lt is not suffi·cientfor Spain that the Inquisition sleep; it should never breathe. Whatev~erdetrimentaJ form the religious motive can assume has its fosterage,as matter of course; (there may not be ahvayssuch a grand inquisitor)whether it he in its concentration as bigotry, its tf1'0e"/'IJ as enthusiaSlll,or its malignityas fanaticism. 'rhus, as a precious specimen of whatwill he attempted under such a patronage, Jet he taken the practicehere of distributing for sale vile copper-plates, ofJewscrucifying aChristian child, with every enlargemeIlt and refinelnent ofcrueltythemalignity of human nature cansuggest, even such as it might nothavenerves to carry it through the execution of. 'Ve must begin in selfjustification,for this is always a necessary process in everyiniquity, bycriminating those WhOlll we mean todestroy. But even now, that

CRUELTIESTOWARDS THEJEWS. 135these poor peopleha.venothingleft them to he rohhed of, as they hadÏll fOll1~)~r dayswith usathome; still they are the butt of fanaticism;~and it need not be said how quick and ready is the mode of conveyingand diffusing aDidea, herementioned.It is too like what we l'ead ofin fol'merdays in our own annals.Histol'Y indeed, which, stalkirig inthe bllskin, consults everin the firstplace herown dignity, passesbythese minutire in elevated silence;--and so 1l1uch for·· ber authority!But chronicles, which content themselves with conveying plain truthand information, tell harrowing tales, fully rivalling at least a Saint Bartllolomewfestival.When the Jews were ripe for a squeezing, the commencementof the process was the murder of a child, which, poor victim!wasthrowninaditch;and on discovery, readily made no doubt,whose door was there to lay itat but that of a Jew? The charge,lDurder and blasphemy, conviction and execution, in one vast sweepingclause against the whole of the nation within reach, followed of course.They neverappear ta have looked tb eitber~vindication or compromise,knowing indeedwell, from long experience, that such was never intendedto be their lot.And as ta mercy, they were perfectly awarethat waseven yet ful'ther oft';save and except such a merey as they recéi:vet:lfr(c)mthe virtue ofaRoman imperial conqueror. AU their IaterhistO'l'y»ai'Qrds,howeV,(i)f, a curic>us (i)xample of that persev(i)ring follyand infatuatiol'l.wh~~h+·'c.anindtlCe m(i)n toaccumulate propertY~Wh(i)Ilmarked by ç,a.u»cxclusion from weight in the politica! scal(i)~ and whichcansohlind men'as to pr(Went tbeirs(i)eing how 'Ïnfinitelyp:referable,under sncb acirc'U:.stanee'Jis.tl]a!t pverty whi,ch Îs theîcr on1y possiblesh~eld,where riches lètrtsolelywitnrtheir QWI1l weight are weakn(i)ss.1~h(i) Inquis)ition thnsmaystiti not waut food h(i)re. ffbepeople of theprovinces on the side of the MeditelTan(i)ànar(i) h91'S d'odeu1' de ~ainteté,;,..,fro~n an aHeged mixture of :Moorish blood. The I\Htuguese are chargcd

136with a diasll of the I:Iehrew:.lThe Ckristicrna'fv4eja..is a Vftry hmitedbreed, and any cross totally e*tinguishesl~~,.merit.w.i~h'iits tJ~"··"'èlif••.~'iis saidto insist that he possesses inlterently al p()wer~o; Wil1'\

R'6l.IGIOl.rSCEREMûN lES. 137lueat, he is 1l0'Ghristian tH and tbis latter term includes in the ideaannexed /to it here, aU at least that is worth considering of thehumanrace.~Such are theeffects of forms and ceremonies.Whethera religionhe theworse for them, as sorne have thought, is not a point to bediscussed here :lmt certainitis, that they do impress, when moral andsense are laughed at, and are retained where neither of the others canbe understood. A preacher here, who gave his congregation a mostrational and usefui sermon, higbly creditable to the judgement andbeneficence of the church which produced it, on the duties of servantsand persons in the inferior classes of life, and which was in consequencemost peculiarly,fitted to hiscongregation, (perhaps this was the veryreasouofthe consequence,) excited ridicule and mockery for his honestpains toameud them, from .the maS5 of travellers, during an entire subsequentdais journey. Bad he preached upon the mysteries, theywould have stared and admired; had he lashed pride and luxury, theywould have concurred.shoulders.Thus, we like to throw blame off our ownFrom ecclesiasticallaw, which is least seen in its executionhere, investigation transfers itself by a prompt concatenation to civillaw, which here is most conspicuoll,s in its finales.The infliction ofdeath is very awfulia't Madrit. A couple, man and woman, have beenjust.e.xecuted for the murder of the womans husband, after a procedureand ..confinemellt. of two years; rather too long for the bendit of exam"pIe, unless/.he/suretyof the ]aw were COlUmensurate with its slowness ;which issome\\i:hat problematical. They were hanged in the market..place. Theexecut~on ",vas .. atte,nded by various religious o.rders, peni..1Ieuts of Gourse. amongst therest, moviIlg ill slow procession, chantingthc funerall'itua'l, ,and bearing ligllted torches. The daywas overcast. . .and glOOI\lY, and the whole etfect very impressive. Very few crimes ofthis (or indeed ofany) kind are committed in lVIadrit, though the cus­T

138TRAVELS IN EUROPE.tom (a bad one) ,of recording to public andd~i.tyanimadven;io~,the, louaI of e:verymurder (}ver cwmmittecl, might êKcîteacontrary impre~..:3Ïon. This is notan idea to whidl meri'g mincls shouldl1>e t.habitnated."Aiqui matarona un lwmbre; ruegena J)iOB porieZ«-," l;)(;)$'itedup, Qn' aboard,meets the eye a greatdealtoo often; bût theseare thehomi..cidal records ofa century.Intoxication, thatfertile sourceof,human.,crimes, so muchtQibe deprecated,isconfined hereentirelyto foreigners. .·Modefate}habits~ab

NAT1:&NAL LIBRARY. 139churcll.tbeia1fl;l1Y"i...!(>r~the;gallows 1" A wretched state of society. ThecoluniesHha~e been in one respect serviceab1e, as a drain to a wretch...ed1Yimo:rbid politicai habit.reason ..orhù'll1anity;can recur ta.In such case they are theon1y palliativeBut see, for a pic.ture of what Spainwas, .. wha.t>slle h8(dt~iformll(~rself out of at·1east, the admirable Cervantes,an.dthenisayifanythingonearth elsewherecan be called in",:aniÏltiolil anà'torpor.A gent1elnanhimselfobliged to meud llis stock..ings with ..part~colouredsilk,employingand;tooth"!'picksildhis days in making bird-cagesSuchwe may re1y on it was a picture, and a cor..rect.Gse,;of frequentlife. Neverwas so pOOl' a reward for conquest;; DeNreE ha..

140 TRA VELS IN EUROPE.ARANJUEZ (January 1785).-Those who insist that man is an animalgoverned and guided by reason will he somewhat puzzled to reCOnciletheir definition with his preference of thebanks of the Manzanaresat Madrit to those of the Tagus here, for the site of a capital city.Theadvantages of practicable water-càrriage must not he insisted on, forthat did not enter into human calculations when these p

ARANJUEZ AND LA MANCHA. 141the Spanish language; tbat sam~inducement wbich has led sornecourtly writers here to substitute the French u for their own sonorous 0,but wbose villanous saffron, it is to he hoped, will fail upon the doughof the country at large.'fhis nation is indehted/.to Count Florida Blanca for the best inten~tions buta fatalityimpends OVer aIl efforts to amelioration. Thisviatorial establishment cannot procure here the resources of stability.It must receive a prop, or its fate is evident. ' The excellent philosopIlicalcharacter and well~intentionedstatesman before mentioned, fellinto thefault so,common to mankind, nameIy, the confoundingeffectsand causes, and prescribing them to the symptom instead of the diS'­ease.:Hesawthat the inns of Spain were of a description far indeedbelow what the termindiiferent can he applied to, and has caused goo.dones to be built; forgetting that two essentiaIs, whichhe could notcommand, were requisite to the general institution-:;.capital to Set itgoing, and intercourse to keep it so: or proceeding in the matter as ifit were the inns which made the travellers, and not thetravellers themns.Indeed one of the grievances of Spain, and though a derivativeone notthe 1ess serious, is thedeficiency of internaI intercourse; andwheu the combinations and time requisite fOl,the establishment of sucha thing are.computed, the evil appears nearly remediless, except in theeventof somegreatchange~ Count Florida Blanca was fond of dis...cussing statistical matters, as applicable to Spain, with foreigners~But the observations of foreigners are shallow, as those of natives areprejudiced. Between bo.th, anexcellent judgement is luuch moreliableto be nlisled than to attain toitsobject-rightinformation.Proceeding onwards fromAranj,uez, tb.rough La Mancha, the posadasof this tractseem to have fallen off c\ren from the days of ils illustrions,

TR.AVJU.. S 1N EUROJJE.inmate Don Quixote.He. would hardIy now find there hi& \vretchedsu pper of vacoalaos, (an inmate of La Manohadependent for his supperon the productSi of the. Baltic!) a degree or01is~ry of wbich Cervantes,by his use of the term venteriega, appears to have perfectly {elt the fOI'ce.'l'he landlurd,. vev.Unl)tOr m istresg,ventera~ inthese seats of poverty, appearsto.eye the traveller ratheras an .intruder: they demand Ul1reasonably,and receive without thanks; partIy because they formnoexpec..iltation of ever seeing him again, partlybecause. they .. see.;lloc.good,..inalresult to self, in the pittance tbey havee;.X'.torted.··weIl oir ifworsethan tbis do. not ha'pp~Btlt.the travel1er isto hi01; if he do Dot meetwith a ventera ofso powerful a tangue as to scold bim out of the bousealtogether. Such has becn the case. Gentle and simple, masterand servants, have been driven out, with the world aIl before theBlwhere to choose, and no choice left; not from aparadise, it .is true,nor by a ·ftaming sword, but by as sbarp a twp-edged \V,eal!lOIlI,awoman's tongue. Vexatious as it may he, itougllt,tD.excitepity. Theinsolent fulminations of the pOOl' woman are a cloak ta cover whatmust ahvays he painfnt ta .acknowledge, afearful remora in the progressof life, the res angllsta domi.A large company arriving at;an inn..doocP,wbich elsewbere causes the eyes ofthe hostand hostess. ta danc.ewitbjoy·, is here viewed with those of despair.Various deep~seated causesco-operate to effect this wretched state ofa,ccommodation.Sorne havebeen laid before the public .oye correct]y, sorne yet remain not dulyexplored.With the best efforts, the intervention of a. .space of, tim.ewould berequireci, and people do not like to wait.The .travellerIQusthere provide himself with the needful in every sbape on setting out;that is the worst which can bappen toltim.But the failure ofwelLintendedplans of amelioration is to he lamented the mo.r.e" as itf.gÎJ10esa

RARCELONATOSIERRA MORENA. 143bandle to the tî:lalevolent to depreciate and discourage aIl efforts of thekind in any way.Often, what appears in life contradictory matter, is very consistent.To say of people,afterhavingmade their poverty'a matter of descant,thatmoney mightbeaseconda,ry object with them, .may, to sorne, appeartheformer; yet such isthe case = and whenthe mindstops to1'6­fieet, a not very willinglyundertaken process, itis very explicable. Totake as an instance, not an article of first necessity in life,-because,although attentero places himselfupoll a high-road to live by the public"yet, if he has but barely bread for himselfin the house, thepuhlic mustgo without any, but one rather ofluxury-'"-'icedwater. A person in hissituation,

144 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.for horses and cattle of bUl'then here, as we use oats.-It would bé' use~less to carry this subject iuto further discu~sion.LA MANVIIA lS a strong geological feature in the face of this extraordinarycoulltry. It is a humid argillaceous tract, and the soil tenacic)Usto an extreme. It appears to be the second levelinSpain, that ofCastille being the summit, to which it composes the next lodge, southwards,bounded in that direction by tbe Sierra Morena and Guadal­-quiver. The Guadiana, here in the vicinity of La Guardia and EIToboso,has been fain ta work his way under ground, through this seCOl1­dary level, which, hereabout, by the fun, or rather stagnation of thewaters, appears hardly to deviate from a horizontal plane.Here is formany miles together a chain of shallow lakes and subterranean communications,wrought, it is highly probable (for here are no visible ones),hy the effort of the waters. Otherwise silchan abundance of sprin~swould inundate the whole country, whel'eas these lakes nearly preservetheir level. They are byno means picturesqu~, are enveloped inthickets of high reeds, and aboundwith aquatic birds. They mustmake the vicinity very unwholesome.La 1\1:ancha, produces good wine,but which being kept in CUe1'DS acquîresthere a villanous twang; especially the red wine~ Oil is so kept :proofs how detrimental a bad system of internaI conveyance is to acommunity.Here are two staple articles of the soilspoiled for exportation.is more durable.The Manchegaw wine approaches to Burgundy in fiavour, butat excellence is attempted.However, it is at the convents alone that anyeffortThe indifference of the Spaniard as to bisown accommodation on this point, puts it out ofgeneral exertion ; and itis at these institutions only that there is either capital or disposition taapply to such things~ Leisure indeqd here i8 in abundance~but it 18otherwise employed. Wereit notfor theconvents, herewould hardly be

GEOLQGYOP LA. MANCHA. 145a specimen extant, to prove to the stranger what Spain might be inpoint ofcultivation.Their grounds are the best tilled of any, where anattempt is made.-It is the same in France.La Mancha possesses advantage over the plain of Ca5tille in soilandin e1imate.: the former shouldby" its appearance be inexhaustible, andthe latter iSlnore improved by its descent of level than by ils approximationto the South. The boundary of this tract the map mal'ksoutbetween the Tagus and Sierra Morena. Bow important in the study ofNature are the courses of rivers !It i8 consi~ered to he the case that springs rise hetween stmta. Aclose affinityis 50 traceahle in the courses ofrunning waters. The compositionof La Maucha i5 evidently alluvial. Herè seems to have beenadep05it of what, from othçr tracts, bas been washed away. 'La Manchaiswell adapted tothe introduction of water-carriage ; and the appropriationof this beneficent element, under judgement, to the uses ofman,would he ahles~ingevery where attainable, and would tUrn its agueishwâstesinto a paradise in8uch a climate. Bere at present produce musthe consumed on the spot whereit, grew; and no obvious mode ofdoingthis is traceable, save by the canker andmoth. Either the marketmust be. brought to the farmer, or the farmer to the market,for agriculture"tbetrueandonly basis of national prosperity, to fiourish. Butinpoint of land-cardage, Spain is probably not so much advanced at thisday, as England was in the leignof Edward the First. Torpor anddepression reign in the towns, and denudation over the country. If thecaUs of the traveller compel him toenter one of the former, for they are·usuallyapart froq:l the main road, 'such a,f it is, the 'Oenta~ being insulatedhouses, (a circumstancedictated by the.internal principles whichregula.te he.re, andall ~o much. the worse,) and he there inquires for apound of meat, he is directed to the butcher, who, when. the strangeru

146 TRAVE'LS IN EUROPE.hasbeen duly introdllced and has. a~nOiun~ed his ijLJaÎl)ess, Jounges"apparentJy somewhat laili ta .go,thisshop, w/liich Îs ap9Jrt frOID bishouse, unbars it, cuts off and w,eigmis 'outwhatis 'req~Jifed, delh~ers lit,and receivesthe moneY""""'l"iaHill1 awf:ul sHelllce, ilul1ess ,stration'to recur tO,St'.lNe the wtetched -vacuit.f o{tilleoortt#o system,of tb.~:inf:a..tuation of tll'e ganling...tâble; ahsotlbs:thepoolj.lIJesidu:e])(:)'fJle nation, to,~hos~taleûts/'.and energyeuery: 6~lIJ.merobliged to beàtîndeltble tJ~s6lmO);l]:Y"tbis :iDUJ.yQ.il·atilt;}!.:âJkôt:Jl~rrhc,e1ft:l~t6iÔ(;,a,8

PICTURE OF A 8p.mN.ISH CQiUNTRY-OENTLEMAN. 147nlaraidlttâri~lll'~ti(}tœ~rèin '~tnher~spects Blow~, but in ,ID'a'13)f, very lluucbth

148 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.and was devont ·to our Saviouralld the Ho)y Virgin.His housewasroomy, comparative)y with what is usually seecn of village...mansions;and the village in which it stood was his own property. Hiscoat-of-arms was carved in stone over the entrance. His winc-butt(coincidence ofcustoms r Observe ,the place of the ale-buttin our ancientmansions) was in his court, his cellar hardby hishall".andjarsforholding wine were ranged'al1 around il. His ladywas weHbred·, .. courteous,and affable. A marveHous silence pervaded the wnole mansion;80 that il seemed·in this respecta conventofCar:thusians. Abundance1 prevailed.throughout the lower departments. In charity; not merely to .the pOOf but with aIl mankind,and in rational œconmy, Don Diegode Miranda passed his life, unambitious of honours or the patronage ofthe great*".JJ Perierunt ipsce nûnce.Every moral picture has two sides. Cervantes gives the other. Astate reduced to such poverty thatits aristocracy W\ere faintodarntheir\stockings withother-colonrèd silk;" soparalysed iRstoreeurforemploy-Inent to making bird-cages and toothpicks! The events of the reignofFerdinand and Isabellawere-sufficient of th(ùnse]ves to have constituteda country, yet Spain neveF profited by them.The redress of the grievancesof this state is beyond the reach ofany hand save that of Providence, unless apàtriot king were. to startForth to the admiration ofmankihd,-a consummation beyoqd the reachof aught save wishes, whilst }'tance,continues her neighbour.Abuseswin ever find powerful support, powerful indeed in proportion to their.magnitude, as able to command morefriends. VVhat a formidable hostthen must the herelofore recitedcatalogue of political mischiefs com-"" What w6uld Spain now De with such an inmate toeach parish! And wha.t a éon.ttâst ! iinteY.Ïorand cxterior! For four hundroo miles no insulated hou~e prèsen~ing it~elf, save the Posada; IlQt anew olle risinghetwcen the Pyrenec~ and the Straits of Gibraltar.

A VI:EW, OF CIVIL SOCIETY. 149mandft).rgectileral defence, and aH instinctively .. rallying in cornmoncause!. For, however independent, and even hostile aplong themselves,however repugl)antand repulsive,the common sense of interest is sokeen and sensitive,that theyraUyand combine on the slightest touch.And to oppose and prostrat~ such ,a forJDidable power, here, are. onl.vplainisense andsouno policy f One public intel'est agai,nst, t~ousand&of private! What flowers of eloquence would be raised against sncb.feehle voiees!How hopeless would he their efforts*!To conclude, however, with La Mancha.-La Guardia is said to heafeature of considerablegeologicl!,\limportance. It lies atsorne distancefr~;. the, .road; and investigations.in this line, as is weIl known to thosesmitten with a love for that science, are not so readily dispatched asthose of botany. It is, by primitive formation, a round hill, one side ofwhicbbas dilapsed .nearly perpendicularly. Hs name ex.pl'essesthe use.to which after-times have consigned it. U pon thesubject of the agriculturehere, and this is. a wheaten tract, live stock, which occupies somuch of the farmer's attention with us, gives him very little troublehere. Ip regQrd to his tillage, he goes out from bis village afield in*,These obs:ervations carry their date in their check. Would they were obsolete! They are Dot arrivedtotbatftappy$tate'yet:ya eonqueror! Wlw then is to say thatmiracles have ceased? 1nregard to the present sribject~ however" thesam.e year has:given Izera kingqf Izeroum chotce ~ one who thereforeholds the sceptre 4y legitimate title. The hand ofProvidence c~uld alone have guided .matters' diffusive of such an extent of moral good; could onlyhave ba,ffle« the assiduoûs.and mischievous iugenuityofinfatuated mortals, in their blindtle6s, lahour­Îilg, and labouring in vain~ to conbavene. his benencent dècrees......The author has spoken of theSpanish Bourbon dynasty as they wel'e, tohis eyes. CircumstancesJ1ave .now be

150Œ'é i'rtO!'l1irlg by 3l1n-î'isc, ,'vHh ~NilIis j'oRés';ànd n:6twlth~tandillgwl}:l"Fis aoove obSèt!ved l , theg~ aré riTimy rn pt0portion to tl're àai~ work' td bedone. The groùnd i5 Inîr~l'y Sëtat:ehed. The plotlighlinàn ihde'ed seél'llS,bJ bis nnydcdf pi'oceduré, to tl1il'lK ehat business ils confinecr tt)maintaihing the irnplemelH corrfidétl to hhn in eqllilibtio upou ifs s'oi'f'.He thel'eft'>re just keeps a Maud to it. Tbe reapimg is illoslIy performerlduring Ure night, by the a'id or radier SOlê exertion of the pOOl' ~Gallician," was the modest expression of a waiter at an inn. Yêt aIl that they ba~ to aIlegêagainst thé Gallegos ill their indefatis,able spirit of industry :an enerSY'il:>fJ~~9l.lrtf1l!'t,.;tpiprej~diced ey~, wo~ld ~~ord.ddig~t .. ) Inde~d, for the•. ~rtl1ermisforf~~1~.t!~~~~~u~tr~'0h~re seen18to eX;ist a tariff br scaleof provincial mérit: thus, reckoning the Gallego, the most usefuj man inthestate,itsnlOst ahjec~, or zero, above hillnises the Catalan;, whois cqns\dered, no worse tbanheis treated,as~c~nqu~~eds~~j~et'T~ext,as~endsthe .~~ti~e of the coast-provi~c,es of theMediterranean (soutllwards), who however is hors d'odeut· de sainteté, by a su~picion of a

HONOi;ç,4+RX :QIS;rINçTIONS.show t4e, ppw~r9Lth~~Qil. Ifhou~jng of caUle, and the use ofsf1infoill~Il4 ·l»~~r1#;8ith~pl~ut!s adapte,d to t;he c1imate, prev~iled, the phYsic~Iresop.r finâit;The construction of the Spanish languageis v~rY cmipus,· wPereiPl:t.·)ttjp, 4~!\lRjÇ"aQtl)cic, filIjliî:,· alld ~çytpian,haYe PPJAbic!1e4~pppnstitute spgrand ~nd elegant ~whole',~~~w11·~.I~f)èi~~a~ffl~;~~__br~~lde·, A~lg1icè!1( toast-has heen81ways a puzzle'to tnéir philologists. ·Its root will b.e found with many others where few look, in~.Q~l QIt~1~Q-r?8ri'l!!ga.d4, ~ OQ$t ....0UeWho giveSil}inente~t ....jIlllliC.nt.Sp/;lin, .byi4'l'~itl!~ttion,posseslilesa pe~ulia~ intére~t too in the hi~torY'~ftp~ grear fa~il~0.r llla~ti~d~ whether pastoral migratorsf!'6fu Sc.ythia, or sea rOvers fromPalestine. The Asturians flattell the head:, which is purely Scythie,\~.nd ac.ust0l11limitedinScythia itself.'I'he Gàlliciâns use tl1e.braccated .clothing, the bo!cmet,and the mouth bag-pipe of their ancestors.

15~ TRAVELS IN EUROPE.sumptuous avenues will one day, it is to be presumed, put an end tdthe dreadful stories, whereby the minds of good people at a thousandmiles distance are harrowed up, relativeto the difficulties attendantupon crossing this tract of mountains of inferior class.The sweet acorn-bear,ing oak predominates here. Where -tillage -hasînvaded the precincts of the forest, full-headed trees of this specieshave been left at judicious intervals, scattered over -and ornamentingthe pale stubble.They pour down .1!beral showers ·of their produce,which affords sustenance to nume.r0us droves of hogs.LA CAROLINA, a German settlelllent, ls a specimen of the speculative.schemes of the presentgovernment. No go()d is rationaUy te> beexpected from this wel1 ..inteuded instance of them. If Spain lack inhabitants,due encouragement should he given to populationat home,hy opening for it the means oflivelih9od to the labouring cJasses~Whatother expectations may have beenformed il. is not so eusy· to.>divine.These pOOl' people are agriculturists. Hav~. tfieysuperior meansaUowed them to the natives? If they have not, do tbey not labour todisadvantage? If they have, is it not ashameful partiality ?Houses built upon a uniform plan, and equidist~ntstreetsunnec~ssarilywide,-the architecture of the nlarshes of HolJand transferred to amountain side in the south of Europe: aIl thut common-place effort atspecious improvement, which amounts at most to injudicious imitation,indicates but a shallow foundation for it to .arise upon. Perhaps, asthese people cannot live under those privations which a Spaniard. isresigned to, they mayteach their aboriginal neighbours new wants, andthus give a SPUI' tointernal commerce.best light that can be thrown on it.One would fain sec aIl in theThey are understood to he verydissatisfied with their situation, as is the case with mostilllp(')rtation~of the kind.

STAT'ISTlûS.As ta tp~ sp~clllatiônofp6pulating, and its bea{.ing on statisticalimproveUlent; it is tobe observed, that this last, in Hs basis, isfixed inthe intimate connexion, and strong ïnterest, with, and in, the spot hécultivates, pos~e$sed by.the cultivat.or.hhu tpe.aid ofJime: let; hi;s .ç·~nfidenceLet him have these, and giveand his prejudices be un.dis.tllrb~d, the~weatof; maîn's b~w willstalld in the '~'tead'ofcapital.,andalladventitious assistance. The pea~ant(without whoÎ"I\ no sU l perstrucrturecan arise), the. fa:rrner, the gentleman, the artisan, sailôr, and meil'''''chant; ,aIl the gradations and descriptions of social life will spring üpat thaÏr properl'espective ~cas.ol}s and places, and constitute a powerfulaypp!Ul.PPYllation. Population is the l'cal strength .of a country: iftrollbles ensue.thel'efrom, they indicate a defect in the g6vernment.Butwithout plentY,()fl1at)

154 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.There is sorne good oak in the Sierra Morena; but the want ofhuiIding-timher,which this is Dot, would be materially felt in the progressofimprovement.The aspen on the Ebro, and the elms on the Tagus,prove that time would give this article in the species suÎted to dIedimate (as, for instance, the poplar tribe) in abundance, for th..e exi..gencies of a country that had any.. Ship...titmber is a serious clesidera.­tum in the southern nations, but to none 50' much as to this.For;sttuated as Spain lS, obliged in case of war tod'efeRQrhîerself én tl,etwoclements, it is hard to say how she coulde:xistwêl'C' itnot forherColo"nies, since the loss of the N ethe111a.nds,thevariotls prô

DISADVANTAGES 01t TR.l.VELLING.WITII CARAV ANS. 155ente (in whicl1a.niseed isinfused) alone is a breakfast to sOine.Moredo'withoHtany. H()w different a picture this from a stage-coachbreakfast in England!But tbeaniero is Dot to be retarded by suchtrifiingcalls. And aUhough he may bear his facuUies moremeekly,yet he is equally lordparamount upon the '.road witb him who wearsthe J'()yallivery.. TràveUi:l!1g.isusuàllypel"f~rlJled here in groups, c~ra..\l'ans as they would becalled in someèountries. Even ifa travellersets out singly, bis aniero imperceptibly drops him into one of these as...$ociations if possible.His circumstances are not mended hereby. The1nost active and habituated voltigeurs of the community (this tenuapplies)~()whatis suffered, Dot what is acquired), as the halting-place i8appno!aêhed,contriveto anticipate,andfO'nt main basse on whatever c'anhe found,in oraboutthepremis~,.inuny way reducible tothe operationof tbe frying-pan.Thei~laJ0.,heJ;lc.eoccasioned among the featheredtribe around, ou the arrîval ofoneofthese mar.chingbodies, may weIlbeconceived.Nothing that can, by the rem()test construction, be accountedhuJ)1au.fo.od,~asa,chanceofeseaping. In putting the victimsto âeath, Levitioal··care·iistaken that tlopart ofthem should he misappliedor 10st;. everyclroPQf,bloodissecured as orthodox Christian food,çoagula"d,.chopped ...iimct~.ince,andaddedto the accumulations ofthepa.n,>all~ii~~~etéd.âs.$linutelyas tlle ~oints wiU admit of. This is notthe workJof many rr'h~· oil goesandcolnes indifferently, asoccasion calls,.to and fromtbe lamp and the pan : distinctions are quitelaid .aside. '\tVhenemployed. for culinary purposes, it îs,however,usually flashed; a few.dropsof \vatermake it deHagrate, and thus aconsiderable part of tJ;le rank Havourwhtch it possesses is taken off.Wine. and viuegar are nqtrarely, and withtoo Uluch reaSOI1, drawn [romthe saUle cask.The liquor,however, in either case, if not palatable, isnot deleterious, being refreslling" and, it iscolUlllonly kllOwn, w.as t1H15x2

156u~dby the Romansoldiers,and. good

SPANISHABSTEM I()USNES~. 157his béd','add llereto a montero-cap and some otlleruna~9!idahJe 'dothing, alld he is a made man. Rence it may be judgedhowJittle is. his deOland on internaI iconsumption. Each nation seemsto have its ownidea!ùf œconomy:'fhat..oftbe English i8 te have tlling~igood, be the cesfwhâtitmay;t.hat ofthe French, to ha\'e them good"bataheâp; thât of.the'Spaniards;,itoithem ialtogether.'V"hat a nation of soldiers woùld thisbe under awi.:segovevl1ment.fTlae bigla notion entertained here of the dignity of man, by the in-'feridr.èlasses iof society, makes!their resentnlents somewhat to bedreade.Cl;hut wlly slloulCl they' n()f: be!treated with respecti~ Whyshould. !.tbewhole inculpation·· he laundhed against thoseaggressed?AmotigSit themselves, the epithets in cornmon application are SenoresaadBavalleif'os. Heré alfeU9(i(Hsparagillg e.:xplmtÎltés; According to t.hePGrtùgtlese idiom, and indeedi.stricttness!the Spanish, a ser\1antisaddressedin nG meaner term than.......tight worshipftîl; vuestra rnerced,wbichheretofore dignifiedshoulder.;;blade; and wllich, even in the presentday,weshouldscGrntotbinkofaPl)lyingto any less consequentialcharaater t.Uân'amayorofa corporate town. In regard lOiservants, thegreat Sp~niards h;ave> à" Cu.stO'milligblyi tG.tHeirh·on'Gur, ofne~er discharg-)ing a dolliestic. IfstlpeFàtmuated,heis still aretainer (as the misnomerl$) l~F~tl~e.family. This, to'b~0 sure, pI'"oduces a retinueof gens déJ..,lsœuvrés; \lnt it is ahigblyhonol1rableinthenationalehara~ter~Tht'} saffie i8 .said to he the casé in Portugal.ECIJA.-There is a;regiment of Spanish dragooBsquiartered her~,resplendent in their iyeUow.l'Inifornls. One ()f theirofficers had travelledwith the caravan~ Re was 'Y"cll ll)Qunted enough to have madehis own way at pleasure, but bore the delay and dust for the sake Qfconversation.Indeed it is to be observed that the higher classes ofSpaniards, such as remain cif them, are Very col1quial with their in-

TRAVELS IN EUROPE.feriors, and treat them with a degree of familiarity and bonhommie,which, however, in no case attracts upon itself the slightest advancebeyond the bounds of decorum. On either side the claimsand dues,from man to man, seem perfectly understood, and are adhered to with..out constraint.There was a considerable degree of military parade about this regi..ment (of Pavia); a formidable band of kettle-drums, trumpets, andother martial instruments of sound; a large body of officers carryingthei1' profession much with them, well..bred men, and possesseli, Iiketheir' countrymen in general, of adue portion of that sixth faculty sonecessary in this worId, but so hard to define, which goes by the nameof tact~.Nature formed the Spaniard for a military life. l?olard was an oraclein his day on these matters; but his dicta are likely henceforward to héconsigned ad ficum et piper1 whither much more important maUEetihasgone before them. He is only noticeablehere hy his extravagant andparadoxicai eulogies on the Spanish cavall'y,wihich could notever havebeen formidable against that of the North. This is not the language ofdisparagement; oit is merely thecounterpoise to the extravagantasser..ltion of the abovementioned author, that the Spanish cavaltyneverknew its o'Wn strength; meaning, to he sure, that it never encouflteredits equal.1'hat this cavaIry would constitute a very fine branch of anarmy, in its way, it would be a mark of ignorance to deny. 1'hey usethe point of the sword soleJy. How far this is eligible will not beherediscussed; but the adoption of the plan indicates thought.But the$ Butler may help us out in the way of definition here, where he talks of" metaphysic virtuosis,Who hear with 'eyes, ~d s~e whh noses;~

SPANISa CAv ALRy • 159menl'id'&"N'ery long, andcannot have due command of their hor8e5:.On tbe other band, the nature of the Spanish hor8e comes in rectifica...tiOH of this erroneous practice.boots, which 18',,31The men wear spatterdashes instead ofproof they are Dot aware of the power given bycohesion; and t\lei1' horses being aU stallions, l'ender the ranks verynnsteady, even in sttuad,ronS'i.!"\'Vhat,then,Ulllst he the result of amoveD1ent en muraille? or how could they avail themselvesof thel:ocked order? of that preponderating shocl

160 'l'RAVELS IN EUROPE.thousand cavalry would be the lnost efiçient.But the colouies, un.­fnrtunately,. forbid any powerfulor permanent. establishment of thiskind at hOIne~ E\'ery soldier who ehQoses to remain in America, whenhis regÏlnellt .J;e.tutns toEurope, has permissiot). to do.so.: ;and ;as a .c.av.alryman 18 cqmparatively a prince there, thisbecOID,eS a IDost seriousdeduction from nationaldefence.Agla.nceot t4e eye across the Spa~nish .part pf the peninsula, must carry ins:tantat).~ous.convic;tion .bo~yessentialthe maintenance of a powerfularmo~ this}~itll9eyery contingency ofavicinating 'ya.r,J~j!~e+lle~$;"ndA;heirpasses,pr9;\;TililCeS !lp lhc Ebro, .J.hat;river, theplainsQf Castille and LaMancha,and tl;u~.,Sierra Morena,. are. each agreat military featqre;nearly eachrequires an applicatipnof a distinctive nature, and pecqliarto itself, but subject to one great. regulating principJe ; and this i5, thethrowingthe prep(mderance into the ca.valry; A combinati(>tlpfa'te~ypeculiarkind is d.emancled by this cOiUntry 1 AII))osth;t4e'Yorst,s:Ys.te~that can he actecl upon is .. preferable~ ipmilitaJfY mal~fs, aiCtÏ,llgwithout any; thalis to say, following the \1s\1a) proces$ of leavingeverything to the day and the chapterof.accidepts. Much iI))}porta.lltlnat7ter no.douht thus succeeds~ but even tl1at cannotnlal\e; it }~}good plan.Can ligueras Qe considered as ~nnexed to auy thing systelPatic ?-AhoUoW' policy strilves the mimI at ever;}' tllfQ.CARlfON.I\ ..;-l'J1Îs, country becomes intere~tingto theiuquisitive inantiquities. Carmona in the .present day lS nea.rly as tile Romalls:1eft it,TheÏr architecturewaspeculiar J;l1Ore for: sollditythan.bea.pty~TheYseem indeed to have hui] t pot merely for.posterity, (ip. tl1;el1' d()~e~,~içarchitecture,) but for eternity.lt18 veryelilsy to .aqquirep.l'qonv,ey. anideaofthis species of the art. lt is,extrao1'dinavy·;whatln;ode,ofçalcl)­làtion sbould .haveinduce.d.thern l.1'niversally (a§ h;flfe.) te~e~!q'Y()!l their

R,OUT FROM ETRURIATO BAGDAT. 161cJlaus~éésa ~egrèe ofsoJidity, and consequent expense, time, and trouble,so in6nitely beyond any stress to which they could ever have beensubject.CORDOVA presents to the traveller Mohammedan scenery. A fewsllorthonrs of route convey him from Etruria to Bagdats. This placewas chosenby the Mohammedans with their usual judgement. Descriptionsof it are to be met with in abundance. Command ofwaterwas, with reason, and necessarily, a requisite in their social establishments;their ~endency to which was very peculiar, since man in general,by~he selfishness of his disposition, unless unavoidably compelled, prefèrsinsulatedsituations. Even when domiciliated, which is not theresuIt of propensity, he prefers living on the profit, and of course inthe centre of his agricultural labours. But these people seem to havebeen enrlowed with the instinct of the bee or the ant. Like them, too:,their individual faculties appeaT to have been sharpellcd in the ratio oftheir .aggregation.politieal.They were warlike, refined, clegant, scientific, andTheil' remarkably 8edentary habits admitted of t11.is closecompact of society, which was more the result of manners than of thesta,te of warfare that prevailed, aJthough -this may have mouldedmanner$' originally

162 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.tirne. Can Nature produce two animaIs more opposite than the Romanand his successorhere, the Arabie conquerorP From houses small indimension, but fitted up with the very consum,mation of taste and elegancewithin, through narrow, obscure, and tortuous streets, their immensepopulation 'Vas excited out from libraries and harams, by thegaudy emulation of justs and tournarnents.Sorne doubts have existedas to the estimations Qf their population; but when theirhabits of lifeare considered, none need do so. The horse was as completely' a ctlomiciliatedanimal as his master. The three objects for which 'they, asabove recited, lived, are retainanlè within a very limited space. 1'heirœconomics too, their abstemious habits, and diet so almost entirelyvegetable, admitted of a vast population within a very Iimited pro"portionate scope, in this happy clirnate.They Wereas different too, intheir turn, from their conquerors and evictors as possible.They losttheir country by notbeing united underone heâd;and this aff~rd~one ofthe innumerable instances of history, ,vhicn show how inefficint~the most $UperiOf means are, to countervail a radical disadvantage inthat respect.ANDALUSIA (or Vandalusia), the tract sOllth of the Sierra Morena,orbetween the Guadalquivir and the sea, fotms the lowest of the threeweIl defined Jevels which the surface of Spain presents.Thus the geologyof Spain is an alternation of edges and hotizontals: the former,fragments of a wreck, the latter in some instances the alluvial deposits,of Nature, argiIlaeeous in La MaDcha, hete àrenose"*.This iSRtract of loarny sand, where water is found at a yard's dcpth below thesurface.from above.Here it emerges from below; in La Maneha if: is retainedSouth of the Sierra Morena, say the 8paniards, wÎntet* 1 deduce this ..word from arena, as the mosteicptewve.

does notcome.in the atmosphere,PECULIAR PIWUNDITY OF THE SOIL. 163Indeed here Is now (December) a sensible mitigationThe surface, the vegetable face of Andàlusia, i5 forthe most part one vast tract of what the continental poet of nature,. thepicturesque De Lille, caUs with justice le triste olivier.-It has muchthe tint and general exterior of our fal1ow, and is one of the greatestblessings bestowed on man. Equally hene6cent, too, is the facility'\"herein it is presented to his grasp, for every stake put down,liere alleast, grows. This may perhaps be owing to the subsoi!. '-fhe tl'eede'­cays internally, but still flourishes and bears, totally independent of solidity.Corn, wine, ~nd oil here present themselves ta the hand ofman,from the same spot of ground. The aloe, too, offers its ready assista~ceto'gnard âU, and for the division of property. Each leaf stuck downioto the gronnd gl'ows, and here forms a fence not to be enconntered,by man or beast, uoderpain ofdeath. ~t is obvions that the produceof this noble tract ofcountry might be increased ten-fold, were due advantagetaken of its waters.The banks of the river, fertile meadowsof wide extent, and verdant until autumn advances, are covered byherds of noble cattle, aIl white with black muzzles; and the towns arèoccupied by a race of men, majestic to appearance, but unfortunately$uspected of a drop of Moorish blood in their composition, whicbspoil8alhThe Al1dalusian ladies are supposedto bear the wreath of beauty inSpain ;-thête i8 DC) placewhere they might not appear in competition.Theil' vivacity is extreme; and t111salone frequently induces them to"bid accosting, welcomé ereitcomesr but by no means with a justificationof the uncharitable eon6lusii;otlsofthe wise Ulysses, or of more.IDodern wiseacres, who presüme tbey are like him intuitive, and likethemselves facetious, when malignity alone is the utmost extent of thepossession .they have to boast.A stranger, if it be an object to hiîll toyg

164 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.make an advantageous exhibition, must he prepared, 10 case ef heingaddressed, in the chivalrous style of old, hy a female voiee from a bal.;,c

MILITARY IMPORTANCE OF SPAIN. 165the case,here.Spainhas three quarters in which to dread hostility; bythe sea, the pYrenees, and from Portugal with British support.In nopoint of vielv has the polar star of politics, Adam Smith, beéh morelucid thau on thislast; but he 'ihities, alas! only to make more 'visiblethe darkness t11at reigns around. ft is well known, how c1early he provesit is withSpain and notwithPortugal that British connexion should'belinked; how clearly he provesthat no sacrifice shouldbe thought toogreat for its maintenance-in fact, for what is so demonstratively mutuaIinterest, that it could not faLI to maintain itself.-lt is useless tadilate on this.But an old leaven of prejudice, it i'S mUGh, to be fèared rstiH Imrks8it lwme to baBle ail those just and wise caleulations. Indeed"hadit Dot been so, rhey must long ene now have been acted on.Frenelai connexionleads. d:irectl:'y to the deterioration, British to the aggrandizement,ofSpain.as they are pleasing!Wo.uld that sueh speeulatioos\vere a~ hopefulFrance is.a powerful euemy by ph~sical,.an op,.pressive fri.t~nd hy mOlial,. fo,rce. If even Just policyestablish itself, andregain that independence she seems for the present to have totally 108t,.she must'extend her froutier to the north of the Pyrenee5, and extort{rom france a line of defence there as 5tl'ong as thatofth,e barriertownsof Flandcl's.acleqtla.te;to supply it.And the t,>pngraphy of' this mountaÏ:nQus· tract is. fully,Thé P)~rene{lsatprresetl;t are no moreth31n:an.outline,:pervious ast1te,are in 50 man,.; pJaces, and. fromtheir extent admittingof: any defensivearmY,being turnèd;,. and consequently. ohlitged,to abandon;thell'h Then,t1tèQccupa:tio,u ofN.a:varre by tàe inv;ading pmverfollows,oî course, andt\lis is the key of Spain, at the heads" of t;.he Ebeo" for it is liot by fortresses,the wretched works· of men:;' hands, thatcountries are securedQr held.; The Ehro, a~beretofore obsi'rved." is also but au outline. Thelnountains of the interior are only posts,; and, to be effectuaUy defended

166 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.on this side, thestate must always he preparedto.evacuate andmakean esplanade of her territory, to the Sierra Morena; which thus: wouldbe the line of defence to her capital, Seville, of ~omuch importance toher as a naval power with naval allies; for under such circumstancesshe could not fail ofthe support ofBritain.The eastern extremity of the Sier~aMorena, though ft. country of po.sition, is accessible. It is adapted for infantry and artillery, supportingthe cavalry country in its front, and it links on with the Sierra Nevadain the east, forming a grand outline of defence fromsea to sea. Stillto defend Spain!would require ~alent infinitely beyond the commonclass ; and were these produced in her cause, the difficulties nnder whichthey are to be exerted seem aimost insuperable '1/$.At present, the moraland physical powers of the nation are so completely drained and pal..sied, as to allow no expectation of good result from any exertion of remainingvitals. Feeble as Portugal is by nature, tbat country has al..ways had the better in the actual struggles between thé two powers.This shh'\vs how littleis tobe expected in such a case. And Francedreads Spain agreat deal too mnch, not to be jealously awake to anyeffort macle towards emancipation by her, or for her.Spain, althougha monarchy, is at this moment as unconnected as shewas under the Moorish polygarchy. Her provinces have no moral corn..bination.Theinfiuence of a national government,. could snch beherlot, wouid supervene this; but aH is here mere speculation. Her populationis quite Inadequate to supply a force equal to that wwch Francehad under Louis XIV., and Portugal must ever be a thorn in herside.;-1< Success in warfare is admitted tbe proof of wisdom. To common reftection, bowever, it appearsas if in this procedure succells ought to·depend upon depth of views, extent of coznbinations,elosene~1\ Qf'. caleulation.

MILITARYtMPORT.A~CE OP SPAIN. 161as it would be impossible ever to identify the interests of the two nations.Hereupon, however, i.t is to he on the other hand admitted, thatidentities of feeling and sentiment do, in many cases, in this life startup, with aIl, or even more than the effect of interest, and such might ofcourse he the case here. The king ofPrussia always maintains onesquadron of cavalry moré than the house ofA.ustt1a.This isnota Jessapplicable thanluminous specimenofwhat are neighbourlyféelings amongpoliticians. May' such never feach private life! Sùch would be preclselythe step to he taken hy unshackled Spain. The colonies ought notto be allowed to draw more than the surplus. This province bf Ândalusiaistheparent site 'of the famous hreed of harses of thePeninsula, amplycap'a151e6ffurnishing the due suppHesfor an army. Thus, as ohserved,the Sierra Ma~ena, themountains ofGrenada~6nne'c~edhy'achain oifortresses, hehind which ta he the depôts with Carthagena;the GuadaI­

168 TUAVELS IN EUROPE.derable fortresses guarantied as far as treaties do 8uaranty, and stillmore effectuaIJy hy a powerful internaI military system, would makethis country what she ought to be politicaIJoY, the rival of France, asshe is by the order of nature. One word as to the fortifying system.Position is the real fortress, and in this the native power. possesses aninfinite advantage over any alien.Technical works are poor substitutes.Spain is not, however, powerful on the score of position; a cil'''cnmstance which caBs for the cavalry force. Moreover, as to the systemlaid down, be it ohserved, to dispute ground inch byjnch, is in the vulgarphrase to be beaten from pillar to post. In human affairs a littlemust be sacrificed to gaina great deaI; to make a powerfuI repulsion,concentration must he recurred to; and an enemy as he advances,presents himself for a bIow. ,);his the ancients personified in their aBegoryof Castor and Pollux.SEvILLE.-This situation is :fIat, low, and Iiable to he overflowedbythe mighty Guadalquivir. This might be· obviated by turning hisstreams to due use. What would this country he; wereone of the millionssterling derived from the Atlantic, to diffuse allY where but athome, expended there in permanent itnpl'Ovement?As to agriculture,barilIa is a destructive crop, yielding no return tb the parent earth, andliquorice is a rank weed growing out of its negIect.But as to thisplace in particular, and its environs, both present pictures with featurespeculiar to themselves.combine to constitute a scene of delights.Habitation, vegetation, shade and verdure, allThis too is the season, asCervantes observes, who, poor man! seems to bave felt, with his othermis..fortunes, a true taste for the good things of this life of every description,U quando compean las manteguillas,JJ when the Jittle prints of butter, theproduce of the dairies of the SevilIian meadows, make their appeàta.nce.What is winter here, corresponds in these respects with our mQst delight-

CADIZ.• 169fuI springsin the llorth. But indeed, internaIly and externally, Sevilleis a t.errestrial paradise, A gentry exists too here, who appear handsomelymounted, and give to the obscrver~s iqeas quite a new turu fromwhat he has de.rivedJromaught hitherto seen jn Spain. Every thingimproves $outb of theSienaMorena. Cap. this be the result solely ofexemptiçn from the. meatla? Agriculture,.produce, buildings, population,and œconomics,-al1 are on ap am~liofatedsystem, .. The presentview of them is cursory, but these effects cannot be the result ofsoil or c1imate.CADlz.(February 1785.)-The delightful spring scenery of Andalusiacannot he renounced for the sterile .circuitof Cadiz without someregret. The life of this city much resembles thatpassed on shipboard,save thatit is destitute .ofthehopes derivable fror:p. change ofplace. '.fille wintersare very humid, and do .not possess the geni~Iwarmth of the province in general. Cadiz can hardly he said to constitutea part of Spain. Foreign inmates, foreign commerce,an entre,.p~t for smuggling specie for other nations t

170 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.quence considerably, but their commerceÏs now begiillling againta raUy,They did not aIJow it ta depress their spirits, therefore it is ta be hopedthe mischief feIl short of its mark.French influence, as predominatinghere as in the 8itios, is supposed to have had a considerable share in themeasure,A jealousy'of the superior affluence and command of commerceof this body, is supposed to have e~citedthis most unjust, arbitrary,and indeed barbarous procedure, Count O'Reillicommandsl1ere: a fact which follows the other raiher oddIy.Hehas very materiallyimproved this city.efforts with the Spanish army.Not quite equal have been the resrilts ofhisAn alienattempting, however legitimatehis invitation, to regenerate a country, be his measures or intentionsthe very best, i8 no more than astate empiric.l~ut the Peninsula,or at least Spain, has been long a languid patient in such hands.They may console themselves, however, ifthey, see their efforts fail, bythe reflection thatothers could have, 'succeeded no better.The fault i8not in them. Of an actiye mind, and meeting encouragement,(i~nel'alO'ReillyweJ:'lt ta Austria, wbere he was very assiduous in noting theparticulars of that superlative military system, the foundation of thegreatness of that empire, and the fabric of his illustrious countrymanl\1"arshal Lacy; whom, and it was a laudablethough bold ambition, hemay have formed the idea of taking as a prototype to model him')elfupon in Spain.But he attempted what Marshai Lacy never would__to Germanize Spanish hidalgos. It may easily be judged, by any one'who khows what a Spaniard is, how the emotions of the latter \vouid beexcited, if ordered, by the entrance of a superior ofliR.er into privatecompany, into the Tertulia, to rise from his chail', and remain deboutuntil the self-deniai of the former courteously,apprised him he "consideredhimself still but a man."This experiment was un.succ~ssfuJ:not 80 unfortunate, however, as bis trial of sklu (the l11.oreinnocent

BAY OF CADIZ. 171amusement ofsnelV·throwing h.as been reeentlyadopted as an improvement)Ina much more serious quarter, before the Algerines, where theSpaniards advanced as fast as they formed,in successive detachments;not à portée to sustain caeh other. This gave to a regiment now here,that of Savoy, whlchdistingulshes itself by pleasing in its exterior,which is not usuaI, the Martinets of the day, to its present colonel,Don Cornelio O'Brien, who eommanded the grenadiers covering theretreat after thi~ unfortunate attempt, and who saved aIl who did escapefrom the fury of the Mohommedans and incapacity of their own generaIs;-this retreat, in its execution, showed what may be expectedfrom Spanish soldiers. Not a single shot was fired by them, though theMohommedans clashed their sabres on their presented firelocks. Theil'commander addressed them under this trial by an epithet that reachedtheir hearts: not "Soldiers," nor "Comrades," but " Christianos."The Aigerine officers, tore their heards with rage, when they failed inencouraging the cavalry to break into the Spanish battalion.The resuItof theexpedition curcd the state, or at least theheads of it, of anytendency to such freaks as debarking in the face of Algerines for thefuture.The Bay .of Cadiz is one of the many noble harbours possessed bySpain, andwhich may eventually one day constitute het a powerflllnaval nation. (A very inconvenient ledge ·of rocks in the entrance.here~ calledLosPuerco~,has caused .many misfortunes to ships.) Theseof Spain have thead'vantage'too, ihat they are notbar·harbours.-­Ferocity has unusually plarked British warfare when pointed againstSpain~Thesacking-systertlselected this city for its victim. The•... , .horrorsexperienced atYigo are shuddered at here to this day. It istobe hoped ,this mode of warfare at least i8 consigned for evel' to abz2

'l'RA VELS IN EUROPE.horrence; and let its particulars be so to oblivion ! Nationshave Inùchto exercise forgiveness on to each other.The time now fast approaches for the renclezvous on .the coast ofAfrica, and a favourable opportunitypresents itselfin thê arrivaI of'aBritish ship in those seas, chartered for the Sultan~sservice, and assignedby him to different purposes, whichwiU explain themselves indue time; one part, however,being the conveyaticeof a1~tiUery to hisnew military establishment, Mogodor" on the coast ofthe Atlantic. Aconveyancein a weB appointed British·ship :Wâs ali opporttmity toodesirable to risk a disappointment in,b.tia;Waseagerlyembraced; andthe early breakingof springintheseJatitudes gave hopes of a pleasantvoyage, which were not in th.e sequeldisappointed.A summary refiection or two will obtrude on taking leave of Europe,and more particularly a part of it which lies sa much out of ordinaryroutes,that the chances are considerabI'y agaillst its presentingitself to the notic.e of any man a second time, in the courseof'·life. Forthe purpose of possessÎng in the minda good ideaofso greatan objectas a nation, it i8 necessary that the image ahould beso concentratect, itsfeatures sa condensed, as to he rendered capaple of being retainedupon the mind without conftlsion. In regard however first to :France:­In that country we see one, to judge ofwhich, a personification willavailus.France is a great nation, of prodigious physicaland moralresources, but under a system in every respect inadequateto the displayand effort of her mighty means. May it n6t he said of that country,thatFrance has outgrown thé bib, Ieading-strings, and rod? It isobvious what she suffers by.Thecaseof Spain i8 entirdydifferent,but the same principle of comparison wiHavailhere.Spain labourstmder the d,ecrepitude produced by accumulation of. politicill evils.

QUITTING EUROPE. 173Expansion is cal1ed for by one state, exoneration by the other; one lSsupine, the other prostrate.The politieal institutions which might rulea Frankish eonfederacy of illiterate andadventurous wal'riors areutterly inadequate to a domiciliated people '*, and the feudal daimsare not less so. Snch politieal evils, any one .of which \has ever beenfelta material detriment to a state, are utterly intolerable to onedehilitated beyond the endurance of pressure.-But-farewell toEurope!* But whatevents have taken place since the occasion of such thoughts occurred 1 And howsubUmely elevated does human nature now stand! The spectacle is sufficient to draw the misanthropistfrom his desert." IT 15 WISE AND JUST TO GIVE FRANCE STRONGAND LIBERAL INSTITUTIONS CONFORMABL'BTO THE PRESENT STATE OF KNOWLEDGE!'-The words rif an Emperor!So much wisdom and justice never were condensed in 50 few words." La France a besoin de quelques exemples."-And what examples! what specimens of thediscipline intended for human nature! How the linger of Providence has defeated the malignity,10 work the happines!l of mankind !

175PART II.•.A. F R IG .A.•VOYAGE Ta MOGaDOR IN SOUTH BARBARY.MARCH 1785.·-At the approach of the vernal equinox, and indeedduring the \vhole ofwinter, south-westerly winds prevail in this part of the,Atlantic, and caUse the progress to the southward to be usually tardyand disagreeable.A heavysurf also beats in -,:tpon the coast of Africa,which, frolll Cape Sparte), is bold, threatening, and inhospitable.NotwithstandIng,however, its perpendicular elevation, which appears topresent a wall as insuperable as perpendicular to the boisterous element,the latter surmounts every obstacle, and isseen at a distance ofmany miles from the shore~lofty cliffs, asif in defianèe of obstruction.ascending the fàces and summits of theseAn awful warning of whatavessel is to expect which does not duly preserve her offing..Repulsivea~ the prospect may be, it would·be weIl did the principle extendto the elements :. buttheconverse is the case. A very considerabl~in..draught to the shore is more than suspected here, so that it doubly behovesthe naviga'tor to be adv~rte[it on tbis point, in a sitl!latioll wherehe must wllOl1y depend upon his longitude *. The wioter bereis u5ua1Jy'* Thel'c is good reason to thin:k that the in-draught tG.. the Straits i$ more considerable, and exteùd.sftitther out to the west, than .people aregenerally aware of. It might produce very fatalcatastrop:Qcs, especially to vessels on the north of this important 'inlet, where the hidclcn roéks· runout far. The power of this in-draught, too, has saved vessel!! when aI?parently abandoned to destructionboth byGod and mail.

176 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.wet, squally, and chilly. The returning sun, however, makes a t.riumphantstruggIe, and alternations of serene skies and seas intervene, ofwhichthe razor-backed whaIe, which abounds through this part of the oceanavaiIs himseIf to play, spouting up the water arQund the vesseI ; and incidentstrifling in themselves acquire an interest in the tedium of a sea~voyage.Cape Cantin is a boId object.lt ls, to be regretted that it has notit8 latitude duly ascertaincd, experienced seamen being of opinion thatil is placed full thirty miles too tnuchtofheuorthinourcharts. Elevendays trial of tackliI)g in stiffgales, andoftempers in cleadcalms, broughtthevoyageto ifsftermi;nation, atthe anchorage in the Toad of :Mogodor,in latitudé 3iO 25', on the ~4th of .March 1'785.During the whole ~f summer, a steady north breeze, which howeverdoes 110t extend far out tosea, prevails aIJdown this coast from theStraits.It is usuallyso stiff thata vessel can hardlyholdh€'r stationagainst it; and this port, ifthenovershot, is not easil;y recovered~theprogress clown the coast, the cultivators wereseendiligently aitwork,with twobullocksin aplough, in /spite of heavy flying westernshowers, hurrying their crops into the ground, and by the hasty modeof their process appearing;as if they had a wager against time in hand,withtheir plough.Inapproaching thi8 place trom the north, .. a fewvillages, too, cross the eye; but what distinguishes the place itself (fOf. it has no conspicuous land-marks) is its lofty white towers.MOGODoR.-This place is a creation of the present Sultan.InSoucrawas the ancient name of the situation. Its denomination as at presentwas bestowed on it in memory of a Mohommedan"* saint, as it is said,"* The wOJ'dis thus spelt in conformitywith its expression from the Jnonihsorthepeople themselves,who may certainly in this case he esteemed the best critics.

IGNORAN,q~ 171bJl\ proPfl.bly ~~crt1~\Çl~éil~ ~1l:l\e~yd tq i~~te more ~nc~yJ;lt thanl~t~~ui~~, i~s,l.1lf*·Europeans navig~\ing hi~\\cr l)lq~t depend on ~hl3~r 0'Vn experi13J;lce orinquiry. Tl\cy 'Vill ijnd, -\l~,' pjlpJ~ \0 ans.'ver ~ignals, nor, if th~y did,Q:;u:g,\lt tl\cMt,o\,)~QeD~llÇleÀ on. 1\ M09lrish pilot, I3ngaged and taken9n,,;,\,)oargC"Drçssly fpr t"~sp]~ce, clitJnot l}np'V 'Vhtm he saw it; b",t illiii,st~q,ifit 'Vcre a, tqwn, tlul.t i,t 'VaS··Qne lw:ilt sinçehe 'V'lSOll ~his çoast.Good ml3fidians ~nd;tBPrq~çtlÏngpere, ~ v;e~~cl is bqar~icdob,Sl3fva,tiqns are. most entitled to reliance.. On~t~pce is 'fI.'. peniloll sHt1~1.).ing.ip:glish. l~e presents to t\,e stranger thehy the port-master, lvho in this in­:p~rtrcgul~tjons,'Vpichareprilltecl for tlw USe of Eu~opc~lls. ~fhy I~flillgoneΧ (iloqit ilfl:onJ.s~spmewhf!.tl,lufi:)vou.rêltplecriterion to, jl,ldgeoft1le spirit of t.h~90m.~.ercialrel~~ioPsof this.co,\lntry by): AllY vesseieIltefipg OIle lof the pOf~s+ofthe~\llti:)l1'§'do,minion!'> bebYeeIl tPe times ofsun-s.et and sun-rise, shjlllpeijred at and turned~ back to sea. Here isqllPpo,ra,ge or a roaùstead, o,Ile mile and a half outside of this harbonr,~ndpaWlkl with or sOrnew4at to the north of the entrance, or northern

178 TRAVELS IN AFRICA:the island i8 smooth water of four fathoms depth at high tide.Bere'were now twelve vessels lying at anclior, aU ofsmall draught, and mostlyto receive cargoes ofmules for the West India Islands.The Island in front is of several acres e.;tent, and the shore aroundthe bay is composed ofa fine white sand.A good opportunity, which·was availed of, now presented itself of taking a chart of this .place,which was accordingly done, with the due bearings and soundings, andleft in the possession of the hospitable merchants of this"place, Messrs,!Gwynne and Hutchinson, for insertion in the newmap< ofthii;coast then:about to be engraved. The watering..place j'sat the bottom of the'bay; a smallriver, neaf to which is a battery, and also a tr~ethe seafaring people as a land-mark.usedhyVessels which have overrun thisport from the north during summer, even ~ few leagues, have been forthree weeks beating up before they could recover it.bay was chosen by theHow dais littleSuhan in preference to Waladia, further.north, and which by aH accotmts possesses admifablea~vantages, cau..not he ascertained. But hither he removed the Europeans when hedismantled their original station, Santa Cruz, ifl the south.Imme{liate ta the beach here, on the north, are the town-gate al}dlanding-place. The landing from boats i8 fleither pleasant nor safe. 'fheJews here have the dutY imposed on them (and it is Dot' easy tt:)see how they could he dispensed with) of conveying Christians througbthe surf; a burthen it would be an indignity to impose ou the shoufdersof a :Mussulman.1'vloGODOR (April 1184).-The first idea which strikes a stmngers;mind Imre is the cleanljness that prevaiIs around,fmrn the white-washedhouses and white clothing of the people.On entering these bouses"indeed, some falling off is perceivable in this..respect i yet where thereligion of astate rnakes this virtue of the second cIass an article (i)f

MOGOnOR--ITS INHABITANTS, ETC. 179,duty, it cannot b~t be a:ttended with considerable result. Here areaboutthirty houses of different nations of Europe, whose inmates livein an intercourse ofamity and hospitality, uninfluenced and unbrokenby the squabbles' of the parent states.Here is at present a prohibitionofany person landing oQ. anypart of the shore of the bay, save at tlie. town-gate. Whetherlt ..will be continued beyond the period of the residenceof the Sultan, now encamped near the little river and battery, isunascertained. The streets here are rectilineal, and barely wide enoughto admit a loaded camel.This last circumstance, their narrownèss,strikes the eye the more strongly, from the considerable height to whichthè houses are carried up.'fhese streets are thronged by foot-passengers,aIl in .hu1;ry, discussingapparently with most vehement gesticulation;and,the open places are filled with groups sitting in the shade,cross-Iegged, enveloped in looseclothing, and in silent gravity. Theta11 stature, rnanly countenances, and regular features of the youth, andlong ~ards of the aged of the Moors, with their light drapery fallingin redundant folds to the feet, and cast in the mûst picturesque mannerOVef the head, afford a living exemplification of the most beautiful remainsfrom the Grecian chisel.The Sultan,is the rich man of the poet, tbough not of theprophet," Diruit; cedijicat; mutat quadrata rotundis." His life is passed in constructingand dilapidating.A Genoese renegade is his present architect,who seems to have struck out a style of his own.It is light andairy, and so far harmobizes (as is not, the case with the works of thparcbitects of sorne more scienti.'fic nations) with the manners of thepeople who inhahit the structures, as thesedo with the c1imate whereintheyareplaced.lt has somewhat of the misnamed Gothie, blendedwith Roman and Arabesque, and hits quite as gooda daim asanyD1her to the denomination of composite. The streets here are 110t paved,2A~

lS0whereby they are dirty'in 'We1:, anddusty ;fllî~Î'Y, '~~~et; a,Itbohgb,û8the su b-soil is a sand, this in conV'éî:Iiênce isf~tHel';}ess:fêlt ~liah;itwise would he.~f}f@p'",H(HVeVer, it'catises fthe rrdofs tof tihé;h

81thro\lgbthew,allsi ··Itis frequ.ently;, ·however, too .precipitatelIY flcOUt?,and prostrates with still !9reater Ipred~pitation,carryingthe anti&ans withit. :From thc.quantity .0fliDl~ used in thèse h\lildings,a great proportionof this sail must becaJe~reolis.: forthe!Y. have not vehicles ·to couv.ey;itfromany; consi(1erable I·d~jta~cé.. This d'S done on the backs ofmules and.asses, prineipally.th(:}: Jattel\.4-s·toItheirstyle, asMlhechooseto derive a verYlprevalent ·oneat·b~me !from ,the!G,oths, w!hy-;majy rw;eDot inequitahle distr.ih'Ution.ascribethis·hère to the Vandal.s?thcsystemat least is sllstained by the speculation sa far asitmay haveweight.As farasparape;ts,·rampartfi, elI~brasures,cavaliers, batteries and casemates;Gfor..it·mliLst.be··adlinitted. IMo~oclor ·has "tbem al1)constitute nominally,.0rin~efi\lHion, a f~Ï'·tress.,·thist0wn is cane: but .thewaUs (aIlefiimsy, the ca"alil6rs~o~l.ot Bowmand,·,tbe ba,tteries J1onot fiank,aDdthe casematesaFen0t .pom;J;i>.pf)oof. The:embras!\llres ,are, so close ;tbatDot one ganin three.upon 1 the 1 r'an}.partscouldbe.workie(ilif ·theyweremounted, whichthcy ~renot.TheMoo.rs ,coJ;lsiderthemselves a martialnation, ~nd are 6attered DY a desiue from EuroF'eans to view taeirmilitary works: ~ ;complimentthat must ;l)ot be omiited,as they;considertheJalto ·be subIimespecimeJ;l$ of the science, nothaving been iudIe haa,it ofseeing;theprQ~ress ;thathas been ;made iu.it,or studyingits prindpIes;copying .ouly;,in,falct,;from verybadmodels. AU tileirg\:lns, '\vhich}Ia;~1 been·only twel\0e'IDollths,here,were in very bad oroeralready, fromiexposure;to t.ne: elimate alld surf, the air being; so impregnatedwith saliaeparti:cles;asd whatcarr:iag.eswer.e tO! the.guns, ,wereso decayed by these causes,;tha;t ,theyappea·red readyonly ta fantopieces on the first ;disC'harge: three..fourths,however, ;were withproper caution.placedonlyontressels byway ,ofhorizontal props, l'estingthcmu~~le.s"onthe.Ievels ofthèembliasm'es, interrolf'cm. Covereddep6ts, would be barcIy il)deed suffieienthere to preservethem, astbe

'l'RAVELS IN AFRICA.casemates are 80,damp, that their interiof is~ éovered constantJy witb athick nitrous incrustation.four feet ·ofstone-work.The thickness of thé battery parapet W'asThe office.., alcaidê, who snperintends and'show's these w0rks, was a French renegade, who many years ago, dese}'ltedfromone of the Spanish fortresses. A con~picuous instance ofthe 'backward state of knowledge in these procedures of the militarykindpresented itself now, in the circumstance of an order his majestythe Sultan was induced to issue, on very aosard sllggestio'ns, to prè'sêrtre·sorne 'Ofhis more valuable pieces ofartiHery from'the injurions eifectsof the situation already desctibed, Dy imposing iIpon the poor Jewstheusualsouffre-douleurs here, the task and expense of sewing them.up in. canvass! Thus they were left under every other degree of exposureduring the whole of winter, anà the resnIt need not be de..scribed.It isodd that, with the aid of European renegades,who iti8té> he supposed must ha've seen' something in thisway, theysllollld bealtogether so,destitute still of,anycorrect ideas. The main hattery onthe bay affords a specimen of the originality of these. It is in fact aliteraI half-moon work, being a semi-citcle parapeted for musqùetry,and surmounted by a cavalier for artillery, the space inside betweenthe lower parapet and the foot of the cavalier being a narrow onejust allO\ving men to pass.bisects this, and forms the crown or summit.A smal1 barrack occupied by teu gllnnersSome of the guns nowhere (of brass) are the last hequest of Sebastian king of Portugal.The weather still continues at times chilly and showery, and Europeansof the north are still glad to recur to the comforts of sea-coa'l fire,as in latitude fifty-two.But they have here a soutce of amusement ihadelightful spot--the epithet i8 not surcharged for this climate,-aholitthl'ee miles inland-a garden containing a light,'dean,airystructltrefor the purpose of diningiD; and here are posaessed the'real luxuries

,TABLE J) BOTE. 183of nature; verdure, shade and water, in a genial c1imate!Hithet theEuropeans, mounting theirhorses, come to.spend the day, each manaccording to his fancy, with.books or .con.versation (interesting as maybe supposed, where\peopleare by the various pursuits of life, or by itschapte.r of accidents, thrown concentrated together from so wide acirc1e,) andtobacco, until the houI' of diflner. summons thern to a table,at which, if exactly the feast of reason and pureflow of soul do notpœsen~ themselves, good.humour and a wish that aIl should be pleasedand gratified prevail; and where, in the logician's view of the thing, sub..stantialsconsiderably predominate over forms.Even one bred andbrought.up in ,Eng}andwill' look with astonishmeut at the profusionwhich o(Verspreads the tables in the entertainments given in thiscountry; the loadofsolidl;und.er. wh,ich the"board gl:oans.., It was asaying of the Venetianconsul: '~Othersmaygive their hundreddishes,(for arithmetic must come iD ai'd of the bill of fare, and any; computation.below round numbers issçorned); .but 1 give my hundred aIl ofsolid :meat.'''And this is hy no rneans an empty boast:. for a deer or aboar barbecuèd presides at the head, the former usually iathe attitudeofspringiug from the table, while a prodigiollS. China bason,. fil1ed witheuscusu, s\llokes at the foot, the iutcrmediate space being diversified witheveryproduction of animated nature placed· at the sovereign pleasufeof the lords. of the ,creation by primary'dec);ée,. iLl variety adefluate tooccupy th'e naturaltst, and in culinarry J!11odE's' quite sufficient to puzzlehiln in the first essays of his aIltÎ\ml. All.this, to be sure" oonstitutes aspectacle very considerably' enhanced, to One who. has recently quittedthesterilitiesof Spanish p:u~l~eros., which eertainly èannot he classedwitb the flesh.pot~ 6)f Egypt..cuisine, cuscusu, is now rnentione~l:,As the irnpOl:tant article of the Moorishand as it ll1ay not frequently presentitselfin an Euglish hill of (are,it 1S quitee necessary ta inform th~

lS4TRAvlH,SIN APRICA.teader that ii is a principal piece ill e'irery gfœ', and the sole one inevery œc

SHlFTf:NG SAND-lIIL,L8. 185tables ofChl"istian$;·the lügber classes ofMoors al'e aWare ofour ideas onthe subject, nnd;.conduct themselves according to thestrictestruIesofbienséance.1.general, however, Mussulmenand Europeans dine apart. 'Veare clevoted to tbe pleasures ofthe table underthe refined definition ofsociety;theypbilosophicallyeatand dl'inktosatisfy the daims ofnature.mbewholeexpenseoftbisestablisbmenthel"e, fortheartides of heaIth,'Conviviality, and dissipation, does not exceedannually twohundreddollars; a smaH sacrifice fol' such important articles of life. It wasgiv~:n

186 'l'RAVELS IN AJj'RICÀ.to the heigbt of seventy feet, as steep as sucn a material can retainfarm, and in a succession ofuniform undulations ofthis elJ~vation,likeocean of vast billows$ropelled by a v'iolent W~illd,rested while in that form.and su

R13LIGIOUR CrrSTOMS. 187tree p~l'vadeS'

188 TRAVELS 1 N AFRICA.snbsistence. As such~ the politieal independent princes of his creedsend l]im a tribute of acknowledgement. That which~goes hence usu..al1y consists of saltpett'e, which the humidity of this climate produces:in abundance, and which if! an article always in request at that metropolis.The Sultan had obtained, for its conveyance thijher, onr vesseIf:rom the English go\rernment (after two years' soIicitation); and upon herarrivai here, the commander imulediately went on~sbore for the ptmHpseof announcing it. Hereupon, a daiJy supply of bullocks, sheep, andbread was sent on board, adequate to the consrtmptiQI}. ?ffifty IQen.This was profusion to those wb~ had ta use it; but the calculation wasnot beyond the ds of reascm, when one recollects how numerorllsaretheir own crews insmaller vessels.This is the place appointed by the Sultan for 'the, reception of embassiesfrom his tributary stat.es of Europe, in. consideration of the lenitywberewith, ill.~~ present day, he de' ta wield the trident oftheocean:' Such at least is theself-cQmplace ' h na' al val1îty,about eq..al1y alive here as at Pekin orat c(i;pltaJ, ta.kes ofthe subject•.For this purpos~, howeve was now here. Butdelays intervening upon the occmajesty's patience, 1it~habituated to llrook the like, bein ,ily exhausted, he took his departure.Hereby fortunately is af(orded to the European diplomatistsopportunity of trying, in~ their waYSti their respective talents at the seatof government, to their anxious suites a long-wish~d opportunit3 of\'iewing ~tbe country.'''hen his majesty set out for Mo.cco, prohibition was issued againststrangers, any more than his own subjects, profaning t1lie royal precinct,:wberever tbat rnight be, bY,obtrusive\\exes and observ,!ions. r lew,thete could only take place from an awful distancas a f5 the tbrone. N~tions, whether bord

CEREMONY ON AP·PROAOHtNG THE EMPEROR. 189or Pacifie, coneur throu~houtin the'distinctives of ro~alty, as here, inthe country under eradicate, ancient lnanners. It does notpermit" goldenfeet/, another word mr the royal presence, but th~original idea prevails.Royalty Ulust he approached contrastively,.barefooted: Conneé~edherewithis the assumption of the humbler habit:·a delicate iI!sinuation that majesty is not to be rivalled in pompa FromDahomy, travelling eastwards to Yucatan, identities of this kind prevail.Thus, too, ideaslinkon to eaeh other; a single one is thel1Parentwf aninfinite progeny.TlluS we may trace that most remotely ancient and;;.widely dii'ttted>prejtl!dice,tbat rOYlal feet are never to t

190 TRAVELS IN .AFRICA.known tlmt it has actuaIJy taken 'place, save by his having made sDmeprogrcss on his journey. Indeed,.wtlen he mOl.ll1t5cidJis horse, here or ~tl\1orocco, it is equally problematieal whether he ,meaps to saunter out,to inspect his masons, or put himl;elf on th~ route for Tangier. Thisprocedure would some.what annoy the lords:;in•.waiting of Europe; butthings are otherwise in MorocOio, and so :Mohommed intended them.His majesty's attenc1ants havethei~~.horsesto sleep in on their should~rs;at their piquets, their alhaiksthe community at JArge to sl."'pply theirmenage upon the route. Thus provided, thewotld is aU lit?rally beforethem where to choose. Amongst diplomatie duties is course Hldude

RECE'PTION OF AN EM:BASSY. 191decrle of others,what he may, he assuredly possesses the right of na:..t!;ure, never forf{'(itetl, of deriving:iffrom his labours thatfirst of moralblessingsbelow,-the expdnsf,ot1: of tlwltgftt !The preseIlt governor herehad.een ambassador invarious parts of'the world-to England, toVienna, toCbBstantinople.He received.hisYisitors, sitting cross-Iegged on eushio!\bs,ât the upper end of! a smal1rooin, with sorne principal officer. inhis company,to whon}:hè appearedto/have be~n/reading; though probably the book was merelykept in hand, as we seeathome frequently onsuch occasions, not toappear désœuvré. He waswell acquaintedwith the rules of politenessand the intercourse, oflire; paid many compliments to British nation,andinquired!particularlyfors"chdisti.guished persons as he hadknown ;:.~~ongst others,:by: ~lilme,tor lords North, Su:flolk,illhdRoch..fort. Chairs were brought for the Europeans, and teawas served' round~His house wasb~utifuny cleav. The rooms were small according to0'il' scale of ideas, large enough however fora man or a menage. ThewaHs, of white,werltpainted ina bright bluc, and gilt in arabesquesdeep around the cornices, includingsentenccs fl'om trI!ê Koran; andaU together ptesent~d!aIl appearance as c~eerfulascan!be imagined· ofOtHtl.'\vhcll:ee tneStlIl and fâlfe or nature :ahroad are carefl1]]y excluded.Embassies DOW begin to ihieken atthis place, Great Britain, Sflill,and Swedensénd:the~rire$pectivepropitiatb'f.y ûffet'ings. The twO latterpo~ers seenle!dtohavc gottenan i

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.Moorish reception is as follows.Theirmilitary (infantry) is formed ina long and close laneof two fronting fanks, thegreatdrums are U\:i(lVC;'ibhand the standards are dispiayed. The \foreignenvoy is received fromthe sheulders of his Israelite supp.tersat ,the water-edge, by, the. governol'of the:place, and by aIl the Christians of it,< at the town-gate,where the populace and soldiery precipitating themselvcs at the samemaIllent, occasion a heat and presUlre not ~o be descl'ibed, but affordingan opportunity of which the pickpockets avariltithêmselves, tosh()wthatthey are not in point of skillandaddressbehind their fellow-professorsof the art.in Europe. 13ut still more sufferance to try the alTI.­bassadol"s st_ism is yet in reserve. For, as he leads the body whichsustains the compliment~t~hadvancrflgthroughthe lane of soldiers,thefile on eâ l éh side, at firing, points the muzzle of his six-feet-lof4g muslœtinto the soif, which being of a graveUy nature" not only the .ambassa..dor'ssilk stockings, but the limbs with,in thern, are no smaUdangeroflaceration. At best, the mentaland bodiIy annoyance elldil':,ed Îs\atJeastE}qual to the hollom: intend.ed; for the ski1Ctwhereon the soldierpiques himself:i consists in discharging. bis piec,e as near as possTbJe tothe ~oeof the person advancing, withoutahsolutely striking it with thewadding and unexplodedpowder; which. thiscountry is quite as se..rio. as sparrow-shot.ft is not here attempted lo he insinuated, that a person thoughtworthyta he deputed upon a public mission would "trembling inhi~it,"flashes in the pan, but a little wincing on ihis occasion is hardly avoidable.Thei~iDutch minister to tbe coJll't of Japan (every court" has its'J'egime) is required to show his skiH in dancing heforethe Cubo's Ia

.MO~ilJSH CER1U\fONIES. 193'Qt~' fâ;l~t~!~Jîfdhave fail~d in such a rnissioQ aS this : much de­,ands inwQddJ}\' affaiil'$ upQ tneJJ.ldiçious appropriation of the f~cultiês.Tbe amha.ssadQr here ics!4,enqladed!in fiis advance, by two Jines ofeyes fi~é'nl ,hep~llapet~walbQ;f th"houses ; aQd what is reqpiretl frQfi1!biID is:to~!p!pea.J1 withagf'i\~ft·

194 T:RAVELS IN AFRIC..A:mUSIC.Their atnbassador is Don Francisco de las Saleuas y Mouino;,.colonel of the dragoons of Pavia, which promotion he obtained by th.service of having borne to Madrit, express, the intemgenceof the sailingorthe floatillg batteries, from tHeir ancborage belore Algeziras, t~that destination whence tihey never returned,-their anchorage before:the walls of G~braItar.earned a like muneration.The subsequent accounts tvansmitted scar.cely;:~~ Out on ye-, owls t:Nothing but songs of. death L'""Each of thase diplomatie corps sets ont in its turn fOl1 the capital, the'British being tlie lastwhich pr@ceeàs, thither.,The history ofthe country now before us is so far uninteresting as not.linking on with general histo1'Y: Îts transactions not having iI):flueDcedithose o(the world atlapge, as thenatipn recently, lefthas,done., But stilLit iB impossible but tOOt what conCèrns, inàny deg,tee,; the tlra:ckof the,Ruman race downthedark p~ths oftime, nIustexciteettriosity{andcl'epàY,investigation. Can apathy be a matter Of boast ? wiHithide its facebehind the plea of literary unities, in tmming away,; from those inqui1'ies,which may in sorne degree tend to bring us acquainted. with a subjectwe aresoDll1ch in obscurity about" asth~;ii;history of-oursebes? If:such>hmyever is to be the case, let no such rig.idity: of speculation re..strict thetravel1er.Let it he the effort of him who toils fOF knowledge"to gather, in the full harvestof thought,a moral provision forafterlife.CARTHAiGE *, during her predominàflcy, fi1led hermercenaryraltlks* Clàssiea.l taste has perhapsitnbibed a eontempt for ail whieh eoneerns this once-importanteOJn~l1nity~t~ whieh the philosophie historian may not altogetherhe incli~ed to~~?scribe.. Aglimpse of its revolutions and fate may he useful to sueh as, from stock of thougnt, may reel theneeessity of a ~omewhat of îhat fltlcidltSOfdd îhérein, whieh/the nappier stâte of riïentâl' exempthm

HISTO:R:ICAL REFL~CTIONS. 195''()fm;i:lit~ty force,~ith therapid-springing population of this country.itwas .influêncerl, rather ,thaln ruled, by the Romans. The. VandalsQverran it. lt wasin subjection tetfle Eastern Empire, anddrained,after ,itg infutliate cOlliversion, hy the/descendants of,the Caliphs, for theirwars in Spain, during w:hiehperiod themlgratory Ar.abs establishedthemselves,iH it ;andi:t subsequentlypresented, to the world the UI~iquespectacle in politics, of a coun,try,re~absorbing,undercO'n.lpulsion, hm:own population. Can aUbe :b~:lfren here? Yet Crue it ia, that as the·l\tloors were expeUed from Spain, theinfluence. ofthiscouDtry in historythere, isof BO more intetest tban tQe part,it bore :in Sicily, to the worIdat làrge. Farotherwise, h()wev.er, isit to the morali~t,andequally tothe visitor., If,thes,e countries (Mauvitania and Tingitana let usnOwdenominate, ,ln ,order to cle:iine. ~em) were ,in:obscud~y.under Garth~ge;~ney enjoyed respite, and proba:bJypeace, under&o~all despotis.Q;l, .and,what is unhappily rare in more luminous annals, for sever~l centuries;indeed untilQu,r .,fiftll; w,hèn tlle Vandals, yet tracea~le here, bytreaty:with Valentilliall, founded ,their Christian state. Ho\V feehle ~vas then'may not beso morbidly sensiBle to the want of. Carthage,the head of tnevast tract of ihis con­'t\rient westwarlls, wasfounded by Phœnicians ;destroyed by Scipio,as ht'r parentcState had boon"'y4\.~xander; r.e-c9Ionizçd by Augustus, improv.ed by Adrian.; a Roman province, a Greek prefe~ture~.a modernruin.. (~orthy of inv~stigation, and~~ply repaying the little which verymodemilays havebestowedon if'. 'Itpresented, by"thefeebleriess'ofits IU:6t·protection, dIe/gap wherebythe A:rabs ente.red,tQ·e·se .QQuntl'ies,:.as cQnq1Jer~rs.? Jlleœigratory trit~es l:!f Mauritapia,asit1s nowoccupied by them, havillg crept in (asis,said) from the south. That Carthage, the metropolis oftbree hundred êities,founded as she was on the very verge ofthe mst establishrnenwof civic life inPtd!:Jstine, contain;'ng nn her boso~ sevenQlil~dr.edthousandillhabita,nt$, an.d flOllr:ishing duril}g.eightcenturies, must have assuredly hail a ~ext to aU-powerful influencehere. Morocco may be justly;considered one di' the fragments of anêiettt Carthage.CartlIaginian coin,described ill the Phi..losophicll.l Trallsactions(see the Abridgement, and volume the thirteenth), struck at VABAR (note,:this name), a city of Mauritania (afterwards) Cresariensis, lS tantamoUl1t to a proof on the side 0fthese spe.culatiGlls. .Mauritania maywellbe consider-ed aspolitically involved in the mtes 'of the~at .commercial city, until its IlllbyersiQnin the second,oontury before our œra.2c2

"96itsprofessed protection! for Genserie in"odeù it with' aforee'Qf n~more than, nominally, thil'tythduSJand men. Mere too occursneSiI·matter of t~fle~tion, in the question, Wbat smulil have brottght the'Vândals, êonqnètors 'in Spâin, to cotitt' 'new dan:gers hère.,? Bùt thetact seems tohe, that acOrl'ClUe70r by:habit*,becomes littlefit fÔl"aJiJYother avocatlon. To sit downa husbandman,ot roam à smepherd,' fota mere existence, is apoorrewaTd, 'a disparaging erown; of tihetoil&and gloties oT conqtiest; and the Vandals, 'whentbey haii;gottcm pos·session of Spain, foundtheyh&d aCCluiœn nG~bÏîngbut!territory, everh~ilt1'iring toils aRdPfivations.

tiOQ ()€,Q

1:98 'TRAVlEL8 IN AFRICA.~y" situation and identified ill name. This iaone importaut epqcha i'Llthe hist6ry of this nation. 1nquest, ;v-,ar,ious fàetions arose h'ere ; for menwill ha'we leaders, andieaders adhereFlts, and eacn predOluina;ted for it~day; but fanaticism was tbebasis ,of aIl. T,he mass has its nude.us,and the knot itsdue, in acquiring wbieh the whoJe is pqsse:~~'~' Dif~ferentprinciples have produced tbeir natpral èffec.~s;,lWhethero.pposi~or.. coincident, ÏJi! differentcountries·... . ,...Bltlt the distraetilons which have 'produc.ed aIl the ev,;il i,n .dais, ar.eall soluble ~nto one mischief-religiousfanaticism.The ,subject, if it he in ·one nespect, its prioeiple, simple~ is,in its modes ,here, 80mewhat intricate.Assured.ly no dietation will, illthe pr.esent day, awe men to sit dow.n an resignation,ooutentedwithÀalf views of tbingsand truths'! Thesuecession ofenthusiasts andfanaties he:re, is date

.".1l1STORJCAI. REPLEüTloNS. 199Irom their leader, the word ha,ving the signifiéation of Rabbi \Vith theJews.lIhe plQin.'l'hese evicted their predeceRsors, from the dominion at lcast ofThe Beni Merini were another mountain aggregation, whoseized, in their t;arntbe domination of the plain, and were also in theirturn evic~ednby the Oatazi".a: faction of little traceable origin" inwhosetime.thePortuguese establishedthemsdves on,'the coast",and worriedthecountry:" in bOllour of, the true faith,. ,This gaveanopportunity tothe Xeriffs, descendants o~let, to work into power.the ho]y family of Mecca, settled in 1'afi..ln fact, they seem to have been recUl~red to,onaccount of what tbey were; undev the emergencies of what canbardly beçalled,the state" but,. the menace of an, extraneous violence~Hassan Xeriff hadthe merit,. ill' the ey~sof the country; of delivering itirom'the danger&o( .foreigll"thraldoU1~, andcompensated himself bypossession'of the sceptr,e ;w,hich, be left, Jo his farnrily. ThepresentSultan is-,as were his ancestors· of course, of the Xeriff dynasty; hisdon;lÎnions rrow consist ofMorocco, Fez,Tafilet,.8us (Grelulia), and their:(]ependencies~It is impossible (one wouldthink) for'a country ta oe viewed; andsorne wish not to be enter,tained for a little insight into its geneml his·tot'y.N orcan it he supposed possible topossess the latter, withoutfeeling,fl,nincreased interestc in whatever the country presents.Oppor.:.t:unities w'il1 offer,themselves oecasioualIy for aresllmpti

000 l'RAVELS IN AFItICA.s1Jar;ingimportanceas a linlbofagreatempioo(ceased witIi tbe; dow,ttl;.faH of Carthage; aftel! 'wbidltbey becam~\tulberahle on everyside.We further knowtbat the Arabswereever'lJliowed as obtfuders ;~:t théproper children of dile soilrorced toretire to the mountains,'orire_in..ing;a limitec;l and sullen occupation of the plain; that fpequent 0011­fiicts tOM place, as politioalor fanatical sti:muti incited, hetween ahuri;'gin(:ls themselves, betw(:len them and the intrud~rs: and tnat theenel'gj'of Moslemism, wnerever it came ioto action; pœ'taîledioi\l'er,wtne'feeblepertinacityof idolatry. Suhsequentlythepress{l;l~e;~fOhristianimra..sion gave occaslol!). to. a 601'eigri and (i)idioos' nSllPpation.~ but the claiFnsfouaded; according,to' people?sîdeashere, on sacred. principles combiningaIl internaI competitions into onecommon patiotic eft!opt, anali>Ieman succeeded thus in expelling thelast intttldeFs, and consolidated;as far ~s it could he done, a common interest, at t-he head of which heplaced his owndynasty. Tbatprogress \Vas Dot, subsequenHy, by thénaturalcourse of events, made inciviHsatieu, has dependedofloll!cumstanceswhich calI for further explanation in due time. Aecording tothe accounts ofeye-witnesses in .,he more early part oftbis (etghteenth)eentury, the situation of hunlan naturehere hnd vaciHated, and eontinuedto doso, li>etween anarchy, and a.state of misrule almost as frightfuIas anarehy itself.We are given to understand that a much amelioratedstate of things haspt'evailed duping the reigu of the presentSultan, and that strangers need no longer he shoeked by Bu;ch horrors tand sueh disgraces to hurn.an nature, as are detailed by Busnot, Braithwaite,and Stewart; details indeed 80 tremelldous, that tbeir ltnpressionsseem to have supervened, in the minds of tlloBe wbo llad the mis ..fortune to observe the facts, aU capability of procuring or conveyinginforql~tion on any other subject. As to moral. apq poli:tiçal causes,the world has indeed profited Httle li>y any information communic~tfe

EMBASSY QUIT MOUOD~.~Olhel1pedttring tbose dreadful periods; yet from the manner in whicb 50".ety, ~uch as it is, has been thrown together here, a considerable massof:subject for interesting reflection must present itself ta inquiry, andthe present tranquil state of tbings is favol1rahle ta the investigation.Various :naCeS of men nowoccupy tbe tract of country under therule of the present Sultan ; the topography, sa far aS limits and denQ~minations go, being sufliciently describedelsewhere aIready. Ffheseraces are distinguishable as foUows :--The Brebers, primitive Troglo..dytes of Mount Atlas, and the parent stock of the Guanches of the At..lantic islands: the Nomade il} Arabs ofthe great plain of Moracco : theverY·l1ngradou.sly re..adopted emigrauts from Spain occupying thecities, for.which mdeoflife Natureseems ta bave destined them: theJew~, wbofiU theinteriOf depillrtnlents of'conunerce : and the Negroes"an important race wllichwi.IJlelaimftlture notice. These races arèdispersed, from the straits and shores of the Mediterranean, to Tafilet,the capital wpereof, of the same name, iseighteen days journey fromthe city of Morocco; and ta Sus, the limits whereof are undefined, butare supposed tQapproach ta the Niger.It was now faradvan·ced in the month. of May; but verdure had noty.e,t .a,bandoned théface ofthe country, Of rather the surface of the soil,whentlleBrhish.emba~sy .received notice forquitting Mogodôr, andprGc.e4}ding on it~rQ.ute to Morocco. El!t previously ta leaxring theformer place ~1'lO more to return), ,after dulyacknowledging the hospi...tality of its European. inmates, and especially the British; it would hedoing the"place injus!ice not t~)menüOll the s~lubrity of its c1imate.;Ji. This élass of the nation preservee! its distinctive habits iuSpain, whither in due time thoseWllO composed it followed their brethren. Bence, in the Spanish language, the word Arrabal-ade1:lnition of what corresponds with our gipsy camps.2D

·RAVELS IN AFRICA.And some Europeans give it full trial. Several too have resided'onthiscoast for· thirty years continuance, without an hour's iIlness ; indeed th~exterior of a physician (of Spanish diploma *), the only one who a1;...tempts to piek up a livelihood in that way in the' place, suffieientlydemonstrates the paucity of the eaUs Nature makes for that species ofaid here, where the professor was in faet the only morbid figure. Fa...·mine seemed indeed his chief ailment, and to aH appcarance hewas.not:long to survive. But the order for departure was giVCIl, and prepara-·tions cheerfully enteredupon; and an theday appointed the whole'cortege paraded. outsidethe warHsof Mogodor, at the hour of ten in theforenoon, to set out upon the journey, under an escort of nfty cavalry,with a standard, a company of gunners, fifty in number, on their route;'and a number of travelIers·, who avaiJed themselves of this opportunity{jf an escort, made in aH the numbeF of two hllndred amI nfty persons.RouTEfrom MOGODOR tf). MORoeco. (May and' June 1785.)-On·dIe 6rst ad vance into this country the aspect of it ts pleasing, and a'not' irtconsi'tlerablc' pàrt of it is under culüvation, performed' with nO'despicable degree of skill. Bafley harvestis· DOW advanced in progress.Scattered trees break the gIare of the white erop and stllbbJe;but where tillage does not prevail, an opea WQod of the spreadingargali, which cornes very near in its effect to the olltlines ofdwarf e>akor fine white-thorns, is dispersecl, and th1"owsbroken shades over wrange of country open in vast extent to the eye, and the surface ofA sick man in Spain Funs double risque; but here' the chances against him multipfy. A·friendof the author's, a resident ofthis country, suffered by a diarrhœa, imprudentfy called in medical aid,and with still more cufpable imprudence swallowed the prescription, not however Iike the king ofold suspectillg allY malus animus on the part of his physician. After having, however"done this,casting his eye upon the hand of this man of science, and observing it strougly tingedwith.yeIlow,he became a1armed, suspecting the cause; and on questioning found it to bethe ca.'ie, ,.that; he bad. received a powerful dose of gamboge. And only by means of powerful emetics wàs his Iife saved.

ROUTE FROM MOGODOR TO MOROCCO. 203which iS"undulated loto gentle but not inconsiderable swells. Scatteredbouses too of no mean dimensions or exterior, mostly of cubieal forms,but of a dazzling whiteness, give a vivaeity to the scene, though inthemselves no specilllens of architectural beau.1y.They are usualJyembosomedhowever in groups of fig- and olive-trees, which, with theirdeep.verdure, afford sufliciènt .breaksto thern to take off everyeffect,save that of the cheerfulness which the. idea of habitation always addsto the face of Nature.That object, too, so pleasing to the eye andgratifying to the fancy in it8 associate ideas in these climates, a water-, wheeI, i8 always annexed to the dwelling. These houses are commodiou.s,au,1, within the four walls contain the whole rustic menage.Theyare èopstructed on the same plan with the town houses already described;and the marks of the holes whcre the tUllber trusses of thescaffolding have been.inserted {ornamehtal in their way) instruct usthat they are built, in like. manner, of rammel or pisé. They consist ofone story over a ground-floor, and are flat-roofed.On the whQle, thescenery is very different from what any one woule! expectout of Europe,and in latitude :31°.The command ofwater is aJone suffieient togive aIl the product tbat can be claimed from the garden : and indeedgeneral irrigation is conclucted here, although with a total ignorance.and destitution of the aid of instruments, with a very adequate share ofcorrectoess. Rains fall during thismonth with a tropical su,ddennessand impetuosity; but occasionally only. And when they do faIl, tbeyrevive instantly, and for several days, thatverdure wbich the power ofthe sun so ra,pidly exhales.In the intervals of the showers nothing canexceecl the beauty of the atnwsphere; the"clearness of the air, rich bIueness.of the .sky, and fleecy whitel'lcss of tlie vast masses of cloud; whileeven at mid-day, the temperat ure, alt.hough the air is calm, i9 not yetbeloud geni'al wë;trmth.l'This happy season, however, can be but of2D2, '

~04 TRAVELS lN AF:RÎcA.short duration. The soil i5 here a tenacioUB clay, witha metaHic tifige,and no admixtute of vegetabJe matter. Marl wouId probably be foundon investigation.As we advance further into the country, every circumstancetends to justify the surïnisè, that the arenosemaSses here'"tofo1'e mentioned are a Neptuniati deposit, and notindigenous.At half-past twelve on the first day of the route th.e escort halted,and dinnel' was served to the Europeans undet a spreadingfig..tree.The governor of Mogodot, Bassa Ben Omar, who accompanied theembassy by his master's order, sent his quotato thé feast. This· con....sisted of fish and fmvls, higbly seasoned~àcé()rding to the Moorisbouisine, with saffron, the least teconclleable of aU the peculiaritiesofthis tàste to a European palate, (one at least which hàs not undergonedrilling in thisexercise in Spain,) and floating in argali oH.In theafternoon the journey was resumed, across an extensive range of cham.:.paign, covered with crops offine barJey; that on the dry uplal1ds beingfull ripe, whilst whatwas on the moist levels wasyet green~the power of the seasorl's here.Sudl lBSCIIIDYMA, or SIDYMA, thtee hours journey from the hlid..dayhaIt, twenty miles from Mogodot, consists of a rew buts, now unoc..eupied, which indicat~ this the site~ of a fair or mart. It 113 a1sol:hat of the remainsof aports.venetated Arab saint, as the narne im"The Mussulmen have adopted an idea farlnOr€ ancient thantheit creed; the connexion of commercial intercourse and devo..tion, tending to show how little of novelty exists underOur camp now forms a picturesque appearance.the Sttn.The sun dipping tothe ,vestern horizon with a tropical rapidity, unlikehis ptogress inour higher latitudes, strikes his ;lengthened rays, ,,.ith their parallelsbades, across a wide tract of country, timbered, or undèr yellowharvests.A moist and luxuriant garden, deeply shadedby spreading

RELIGIO'US CEREM0NIESi. 205fig-trees.of the darkest foliage, ovel' which soar lofty palms, adjoins tothe rear of GUI' tents pitched in a little meadow. Before is a troddenfair green, the verdure of which is pel'petuated by a spring in its centre.Adjoining on the right i8 a white building, with a cupola roof, the houseand tomb of the. saint. Our Mussulmen fellow-travellers, in theirvarious occupations ofdressing their tents, feed,ing their horses and'beastsof burthen, kindling their fires, and preparing their suppers, giveanimation to a scene every feature whereof presents itself in a new lighttG a European eye.As the sun is setting, aU the Alcaids, that is officersofevery degree in the caravan, seat themselves cross-legged, inone rank, before the Bassa's tent door, their strings of beads in theirhancls, and go through their prescribed quota of religions prostrations,repeating their prayers and ejaculations with an emphasis and decorum(an unction, in the Catholic phrasè)impressive even to awe. Sen.sationitself cornes in aid he1'e, to give a reliefto the s.cenery. A person musthave t1'avelled the day through, under a nearly vertical sun, to be fullycapable of th~; relish of the citcumstances, of this combination ofnovelty of object, with cool placid enjoyment, contrastell with theview of' vivacious business, which still keeps the mind and attentionalivie, amid that repose which the face of Nature allaround possesses,and invites the wearied body and exhausted spirits to partake of.-Innoinsta'rnce could the beauties of Nature be enjoyed with fewer deductiansfrom the gratifications they afford, than here.The denomination of tbe p.ersonage to· whom this sanctorium is de..voted, i8 simply honorific,and gives no light in the .way of personalidentity. Here too is a trace of ancient.habit, which has made sèrious .confusion~in history, amongst characters of much more importance to)Illankindin general.

TRAYELS IN AFRICA.ltinerary jrom MOGODOR to :MO.ROCco,-8econd Day's Jow·ney.The secondday's journey continues throl.:lgh parkish tracts,coveredstill by an,open wood of the wiJd olive, through and umongst whichthe road, as marked by oontinued interoourse of feet, continues to windineasy sweeps,such as Naturedictates and points out where she ris 'Dot.contravened.Several heavy sl10wers feIl this day, amply compensatingfor their temporary inconvenience by the refreshment conveyed to. theatluosphere, and produce to the eart11.The .whole conveys tothemindll1uch the imagery of a close and vegetutiIJg day of the latter end ofthelnonth of ~lay in England. In this mor.ning's route we passed a spacionswhite nouse, square, tùrreted at the angles, inclosing a cO,urt, aIllocked in by one gate, and containing accommodations for family, caftle,and produce : we ,vere informed it was the property ofthe governorof the district.These things present an appearance at least very cou...trury to what we have been given to understand ·of the precariousnessof property here; but it: i8 to be feared the more favourable constructionis not tha.t .nearest to truth.Itproves, however, and in so doingiu'somedegree produces a melancholyrefiection, .how happy man notonly might bu.t would be here, jf1eft to himself~orsaved from himself.N umerous flocks of the birrl called by out" French acquaintances hel'e\gue pie abound in thesedistricts. The cow-bird is seen an attendantupon herds of cattle.pure white.He resembles the sea-gull, but his plumage isThe trees are alive, and the air resoQnds with the multitudesof cloyes drawn around by the progress ofthe genial season.'\'Ve halted at mid-day unde.r a tuft of date- and fig-tt'ees, having inour neighbourhood thefirst Arab camp we had yet seen. ~ut thescenery has now performed a complete transition, and aIl around ispurely Arabian.Let any one who has tra,yelled in Ireland calI up in

PECULIARITIES OF B'IRD8. 207lüs mind the imagery of a vast tract of bog there, in an arid sun.. burntseason, and an intense summer's day, without a cloud in the horizon,with here and there remotely dispersed groups of about twenty stacksof piled turf placed irregularly together ;. or let them fancy themselN'esplacedin a circleround 'a central one, with a great herd of cattle not:Remote, and, hardIy a human being visible ;. and he. may thus conveythe g.eneral idea ofan Arab country1Yf.A gentleman of the party this clay shot a bird which· put the sRillin orn~thology o~ the whole to the blush. lt was considerably largerthan ared-legged partridge;. ofthe same plumage, had three cIawsandnoheel, and was, as observed, unknown to our sportsmen eitherofEngl'and,ofthe Highlands, or of Haly. This particuJarof destitution ofa heel is curious,as an ins'tance bf the regulations of Nature, butis.N'erygeneral througbout the feathered creaÜon of this continent. Thus arethey pre-doomed to waJk the eartb, and precluded from, climhing. Intracts bare of trees·thç heel would. be a use1ess annexation; and Natl1recioes nothing in vain.. Arewe then to iufer that foliage is,lorbidden tothe vastplàins ofthi8 continent? The disquisition lcads too far; butsnch arc the facts, and they present an ample opening. How can menlaunch into the immensities of metaphysics, when Nature presents· tothern so much matter of unexpected investigation, of closer interest2'l'he heat reftected.Jrom these sultry tracts drives the partridges,. horeeontrary to the.habits oftheir species, to perchduring the day.in. trees."Ve halted at evening hy a fine spring. T)le soilof the country hithertocontinues tenaciou's day, but of a le;s.metaUic tinge. lt is abundantly~:li< The Arab women bring to mind the expression of Athanasius Kircher of those of the Tartartribes-" tantas tunicas dicm"es." The extensivepracticeof tat,aowing seems to mark this peopM.Qf; Japhetian or EastScythie, derivation.

~08 'l'RAVELS IN AFRlüA.watered.It is aIsa covered to a considerable extent with the fouuda..tions of ancient buildings, which being of stone (not hewn) maybeascri bed to Carthaginians, Romans, or Vaoclals.The natives 0f coursegiv'e the houaur of the constructions, whatever they may have .been,toPharaoh, the grand solventand sedative of the troubIesomespirit qfin..vestigation throughout these parts of the wodd, so far at least as relatesto ancient times.Third day's journey.-'The face of thewholecountry lscovered toincollvenience with rubble-stone-.stpongly bhl,tingat a Neptunian process.Many more buildings, or rather remains of sncb, are noticeableto the right..handside ofthe route.Two sanctorïaalso, of high reputeand respect, were passed, at one of which our Bassa and chief Alcaidwent to pray.Jt is obvious that in Mohommedan states, nothing somuch contributes to maintain the ephemeral consequence of those whoconstitute the upper classes, as a rigid attention to the exterioreh:tties of·devotion. lt is apoliticU:1 one imposed on their station, equaHy as amoral one of private life. Here they, very wisely,act accordingly.Were it not for the example thus set, the thing itself would expire herewith the tr'1'og'Ytl which excited it.This day we met a body of fifty cavalry under a green standard, theescort of the Spanish ernbassy, returning to Mogodor.The Moorishcavalry, from theirnational costume and oriental habits, are not muchincommoded by what theancients justly denominated the impedimentabelli.The face oftl1e country is stony (rubble), bareexcept by a few stuntedbushes, and totally uncultivated as far as theeye can reach.If suchhe the result of the nomade reign, no wonder that the shepherd was anobject(i)fabhorrence.to the ancient Egyptians.Mount Atlas, visible at lVlogodor, but Ina pOfIltOif view whereaught

GEOLOGICA,L ERRORS CORRECTED. 209anneXied to pal'6ntearth would hardIy he looked for, here presents itselftn its grandeur, on the right hand, veiled toa vast proportion downwardsin SDOW, and totally repelling the impressio~s of itconvéyed inthe mistaken opinicm of the respectable Doctor Shaw.Here we have'3n instancenow ;Httlema'y he tobe 'depended on the Tepresentations ofatiaveHeT attached fullyto science ;amd totruth.. But met} must seethings with their own eyes to daim relianee on th€lr statel11ents. Pèrilapsthis ,learned traveller proceeded on the principle of Quis vates advera vocat 'f Yct the poet's description is nearer the truth. AssuredJytheancientsha.d more geographicalknowledge than theirdescendants'are;inclinedt:o give them cred-it for.Those of them from whom Dodor8ha.w ohtainedhis information ,relative tothis great feature ofthe globe'wereutterly ;unworthy ofany reliance. Moderate and diffidcl'1t as this'respectable man'sstatements are, he couldnot escapethe charge ofhy­'perbole. But to throw th,is,Î't ,wasnecessary no! to have read his wotk ;,and muni in this precaution, his candid critics, mankind .at large, tooktheir station of attae'k.But wllftt says the greatpoet?""---apicem et latera araua cernltAtlantis duri, cœlum qui vertice fulcit :Atlantis, êinctumassidue cui nùbibus atiis:,Piniferum caput et verito pulsàtur et'imbri:Nix humeros infusa tegit; tumflumina ~eritoiPrecipitantsenis, etglacie riget horrida barba:'Thepoet'simag'inaîioD must llaveOeen dreaming,'or in thec1ouds,'for tl1e,unfortunàte idea, of piJn,ij'e'J'mn ,eaput tohave eccurr-ed to him•.But At­'l'as bears bis 11e~ùt far a:bovè;ifIie'c1ou~yregion,visible as he is farout

~10 'l'RAVELS ,IN AFRICA.continent put thought iuto action, and this vast chain is the mast ilQportant,just as it is the most conspicuous, of them aH. How much j$mankind indebted ~o the concussions ofthe globe ! A mountain in theselatitudes, in conformity with what the poet depicts, attracts and condensesthat humidity which else woilld he dispersedinefficiently, tofertilize these plains, which were it otherwise would be barren \vastes"ii.Viewed 50 far out to sea, what an important feature must this moun..tain have presented to the nautical people of thoseancient days~ whejlocal points, or the stars, were their best guides! Considering the weIlknowntendency of the traveHe... to detaih and the equal voracity ofthe hüm,an imagination te) receive, stories of the l11arvellous, no wonderif three..fourths of ancient fables are nauticalexaggetation, pef~oni'l.cation, and al1egory.shàre.No wonder if Atlas has contributed his ampleCape N um, so formidable to navigatorspossessedofmorepow..erf,d resourCfIS, mUst have been to the coasters of an(ûtmt daysan ob..ject to petrify the 'stoutest hearts."IlIa sub.hesperiisstantem T~tanl'/o.qohllll~l~SIn cautes Atlanta deditt.". . . . .. . . . . . . . . . ... . ..Finibus extremis Libyas, ubi fervida tellmAceîpit oceanum demisso sole calentemSquallebant latè Phorcynidos arva Medusre."'x How powerful must be, to th1$ tiffect, the stupehdous range whicnextènds from the Atlantic to theNile! (occupied thl'oughout by one and the same primitive people.) It is Hot alone in the torridlatitudes that man's gratitude tothe Power which guides these awful struggles is due. Tothemwe owe calcareous, carbonie, and rnetallic matter, which diffuse, with the progress ofthat population,which owes the extent of its range to their powerful aid, and spreads comfort:and plenty overso great a space of the globe, otherwise uninhabitable. Thus is INFINITE WISDOM ever extracting,otlt of immediate èvil, ultimate good l a proeésil towhichanomnipotent hand ia alonc ade€J.ùate•.tThc western point of Atlas is in latitude 29 J 25'. The..eastern.i§ at13all~rell. upon tlle.~ile.Here the 13reber or Troplodyte tract touche.s upon Egypt, and the people here,w~st ?f .. t~e up'percataract of Syene, are called by the Egyptians Bet'l}eri.-For etymological specUTa'tion,we finda lIIation (rom llie heai't Of Af.l'iêa namedDemooi't6iJ. :A:Ilseem(pf the (l'ace; dHam. (Ammon.

TRAVELS IN AFRlüA.The term 1n(1,rimus designates the tract of Adas heLwcen lVloroc:co and'Tafilet"!

213Sne fOrmIH,l,Deltaina puddle by the same princ~ple whichshe applies1'!otOl'renfand an ocean.Ou, this part 0f the fQ,J..lte are scattered over the' plain, hills of a, mostuncommon and iJlteresting. shape, evideutly indicating some vast andlîlurecorcil:ed rey@lutioJl of Nature,. effected, on the face of thisl continent., ., .Tbeyal'iflf circular trunèated, cones of ele\7ation of ab()ut one-half theirmases, apparently water-levei or nearlj'>s(j~.anda~laligJlecLtooneheight.Some insisted (80 rcgula.r were their forms). that they were the work ofart: and indeed they strikingly resemblc those mouuds of earth whicn,Dyan absurd misuonler, are callcd· in Irelancl Dunish forts *:-an ide~tOf;,··th~conception ofwhich itwas necessaryto beequally ignorant ofbist'Of:Ylil1Thd ,wa.'F~·are.'l'hese couldonly be viewe

~ese 'nesiduJ1of

tlere.GEOLOG1CAL CON1ECTURES. 215lt is probable that the vast, plains of desert in theinterior,south of the Atlantic range, in conforrnity with the course whereof, andOf the rule ()f Nature, is thatof the great rivers, may have been thusproduced, and that a submerged·country, once fertilized by the streamswliicbj descendiùg fromtihe southern skirts of Atlas, are now absorbedintbose sands which" , . non aldus ignisRapta vehit quantumque licet consurgel'e furoo,Et violare diero, tantum tenet aëra pulvis-"and which lie in a depth Dot to be probed, now coyer what was fertileme~dows apd luxuriant forests :-for hurnidity is the natura} tendencyof;the B0\flthèf Atlas, and the sandsof these deserts must be a marinedeposit :a:nd itdoes not app~arpossible.thats"cbiJ.:lcOJlSistepcy coula. .~exist uoder the systematic laWB of.Nature. At a certain distance fromtbis mountainous mass, the streams which fall direct from it cease toBow.Absorption is indeed a principle, which, gains strength in Rro..portion toits progress of space and duration; and it is evidently so feIttbroughout these regions.Perhaps the stone-fC?undations, yet traceableon the south side of these mountains, may be remains of the priemitive elnpire of the children of Ham.Unless we suppose Atlas apersonage in tbephysieal sense, and t11at he was:Lamech.1t .fs; noticeable wh~t a: strong sense of suc~an event is inlpresseduniversally o,nt'Ile buman mind. How feeljIlg~y does the classicalpoetexpress this ! But Atlas towered .above the comp~ratively pU,ny in..v.a

216 TRAVELS IN A PRIC~.did indolence, is :fast resumitlg its true station, andthe fathers of historywill recover that respect of which they haiV'e been 80 long unjtlstlydeprived.A vast mass of knowledge, geographical for instance, appears,thoughcouchedin personification and my~tery,to have beeD inthe possession of theancients. Indeed, in whateverhas dependedbp6Iîdeplll of thought, they appear still as much aSeve'f our masters.'iVe, it is true, have the advantage of them,butonJy uron those points .which are the result of continuity of experiment.ffhe habits of life inmodern times by no means admit of t.hatptofcffifJ.ity>of invèstigation ofthings and caùses, wbich'ourprhn!itl\re'fatners wère enabled to apply~and wearemuch safetin adopting than in contravening theirîdeas.The Sacred Books, upon such points as they spea'k to, â.ffordthe finitdues to lead the investigator throug'h the clark lâbyl"inth ofrenigma àndsymboJ, of time and misconception, wîthin which the Io,"eliness ofTruth is attempted to be concealed,becanse her existence cannot betotally extinguished.conclusive, iIltheir silence ptove no négative.But the Sacred Bodks,though their lvordsa.rêHowmuchof then'l too,which is by shallow readersassigned to fact and person, is in feaJitymoral allegory.Itinerœry.--M_oGODOR to MOROCCO.RIVER GUADISSAWA.-'"TheArabie appears to have, as might be expected, supersedecl the prill1itivelanguage in fhe plain 'here, even in local names. This at Ieast isArabie. The primithre language would be the interesting object of tesearch,did anyhope exist of finding it.At the hOUT of eleven our escort forded the Guadiss'awa, and haltedon its banks to walt for the baggage, uncler the shadeor some :loftytrees.0h the arrivaI of the cattle-of-burthen, thetents were pitcbedfor the nigllt, upou a stubble surrounded by lûxurlaflt nl~ad(),vs ofd·eep

RTV'ER'Ij GtTADTS~AWA. 217;'soil, weIl ,$haded byfttli-grown trees ofthf;(darkest foliage, and irri:"ga,ted bythehand ofman,conducbing"smaHstFeams very judiciouslyfrom the river.About twomiites hence, orless, in awful gIoOTtl and solitude, standsthe OD,ce 'bùs~li)Ut\!n{)wiûbait\tdonedamdvenerable t()~n of SOOR LA WID >Vf.(\town df,thebta:cks, metin~ng'Negros: a race'Gr men of~imp()rtanteinthe ,affairs of ,thiscountry).ItsJofty battlements, machicolated :andioop-holed walls df unburnt brick of a dusky:red hue,flanked and'ttrGwnedby fvequentsquare towers, embosomed in luxuriant faliageof1l:hefig-tree, and nowiB .themoS't:picturesque stage of dilapidation, towhich, ,to give it,duecredit,the masonry of this couBtryhasa pecu,.liailyhappy.tendency"g;iveiit, in,the gloom of a tropical.evening, an.i:nterest which. die:enthtlShlst:s:of.·thependl win 'easily concei~re.'('''1.'is nbw'thé ·ravétf'sdarkabode,"Tis· now\the apartment of the toad;.And there the. fOK securely. feeds,And th~re the poisonous adder breeds;Whileever and anon there faUHuge'heaps of hoary mouldering waU.""The Arabsbrought us from this place sorne ungenial and dwindled~pp]es .and apricols, the remains of thegardens and orchards of theonce occu.J)é).nts ofjetty cornplexipn.called upThe whole scene, and the idea~were conformabletothoseconveyed by JJ16 .readingthe Arabian NigQts. Where .!;,hould ~heNegros have obtained appIes?Evel:y c1imate re~gns ill ÜS leyeJ onMQunt Atlas. Perhaps each contâll1sitsnatura.l products ,thl:ougholl t ,mo~t of their varieties. This it lSW< Soudan.is theproper name of Nigritia•....:Th~ Arabie was once considered a language à soi;_our g~eat aufhority seems to have subsequently ~eell reason to alter that .opinion-assuat il! theward in this ancient tongue-Sckwart%-Teut"soot, &r.2 F

218 TRAVE.LS IN AFRICA.which gives the interest, in this point of investigation, ta Atla'S.H@r~'few hours would bring the traveTIer from Tinian to Britain, fFom J3ritait~toMagher-Oe ~ !Elevations would he found marked here ,by theÏr aniulaT inmates asby their botanical productions. The furred, the }.ll!ovident, and the'trpid tribes wOllld thus be encountered in the summit Iev~ls;: the'rooting species occupies the temperate or humid'; while the ca>met marks,the torrid area beneath.A Xerifi', or relation of the. Prophet, and ofc()urse ()ftbe ~yaJ famil.,now on the,throne, though a vehement disseuter' from establishmentupon the article of wine, yetproud to show hi'S orthodoxy in his greenturban, the demonstration of his vieinity ofbloodJ ison bis way to Tafilet,the family..site of the Sultanic dynasty, sorne Dve hundred milesyet distant across the snows of Mount Atlas, witll atreasure, whicli,for the safety so valuable an article daims (a canary-bird in a cage), he'deposits every night in the' tent of the Europeans, carefuUy bearillgit on his own person during the day, as an intended present for oneof the princes of the blood-royaI. He is weIl acquainted with the cityof Tafilet, andconsiders it to be distant from Mount Atlas, correspondentlywith our measuremerit, four hundred miles.The banks of the numerous rivulets which serpentine through theseplains, and by the depth of their beds show the inexhaustibiJity of theBoil, are beautifully fringed with the oleander now in full bloom, herean aquatic, the gay blossoms whereof just rise c1ear of the banks of thestream which produces them. Many birds of, prey soar above, apparentlyunapprehensive of being shot at. Indeed the. Moors have noidea of shooting fiying, ànd always express surprise and applause when.,.. ,.. North Cape.

ROUTE .11ROM MOGODOR TO MOROCCO. ~191hey seeaEuropean bring down a bil'd from the wing, though theyare1tbelllse]ves very adroit at a standing mark.During the night severai shots were fired, as aIleged, at a thief; ifso,lIe was a bold one too.SidiTorFiniss, as yet Bassa, was bittell during the night by an Ulltnownbut poisonousanimal, whieh, as 6.rst 'fUmourconveyed it, hadcrept into his slipper: and as sm.all causesprodl1ce importanteffects,thus our plans were deranged, and the whole camp thrown into agitation.The Moors appeared very much alarmed, and thepoor man1îimself bore every appearance of being at the .point of deathe Un­.quêstionably, ifit were pantomime, it givesa higl;1 specimen of thenational talent in thiswaY1 for never was onebetteracted. Sncb,hmvever, was thesurmisie which. some CQ\dd not bring themselves tol'elinquish. The duner blocks were buffeted to bring torecoUection thedescription of the fourteen species of the serpent tribe, aIl mortal toman, and 50 poignantlydepicted by the poet, ofAfrica. But hemorrois,iJipsas, aH yielded precedence where" , -Seps stetit exiguus-Cyniphias inter pestes tibi palma nocendî est !"and wheu-casting eyes upon its poor victim, it was'seén that" ---totum est pro vulnere corpus-"the poisouQusreptile was too palpabJy recognised in his works.Manyremedies were suggested, and seVerai applied; but none seemedso e.fficaeious (pitY ithad Dot beeu duly known in the days of Cato,it would have saved many valuable lives,) as the pauueh of a goat(weU fed) cut.out, and applied with aU its contents, smokip!iJ1ot",to thepart affected.~"Sleeping," notin his orchard but his tent, "a'Serpent stung him"-" that serpent wears the crown!"2}' 2The fatet in-

220 TRAV.ELS INAFRIC'.&.deed was, that the venom the pOOl' Bassa dreaded was aU in the rcrya~countenance, the frowns of whicn he telt he nad too much reason to:>apprehend. He therefere chose to put forward his reconnoissances, andtater le terrain somewhat, before he trusted his own" footing,where thereis no retrogpacl~;~.ti()n.. Eefofe he ventured his head in the lion's mouth,.he wished tg ascertain that the royal animal did not; wag his tail.Quitting howevep such speculative matter of unimportant .L8SUe, thecertain result gf tlle gccurrence was, in the fil!st instance,. a day's unex~pected haIt upon the road, and leisure to admireanàcontemplate OUDmajestic neighbour-Atlas. Here it is distant sixty, oraccQl'ding tasorne reekonings erghtymiles; but the day's jgurney,. of which they;.count it two, is sornewhat indefinite.. Remotehowever it certainly is,;but the vastness of the elevatign above the strata of gUI' atmosphere"oivapour or clouds, and the relieftaken, by sneh a vast mas& of whiteness.as its snowy range presents, make it appear to almost impend c01Jnter-:­acting above the effect of mirage, which ,r:nles. below the nebulouS!region. In faet, its base is out of human ken here, even weFe. the aiDunohscured hy that purple gloom whieh pervades beneath. A gréatdeal of optical deception may be expected in an abject so new to thesenses, and 80 much heyoud the conceptigns of' the imagination. Theformer inconvenience may he in part guarded against. An interestnaturally occurs ta assign to this llwuntain, 50 much under-rated inmodern days, its true place in th~ scale of those great features of theearth, in the modification of which it constitutes so important a part.Jtlirage, the modern term, is a good suhstitute to adopt in the place ofthat lIwre complicated in point of idea-refraction. It means, however,the same thing :-it is the effect for the cause; the curvature of the raysof light, to us, on their cntering a dense from a ra:refied mediu,tn,sudl_as Atlas is involved in below and .above. This effect therefore to the.

ROU1';E FROM MOG-OD.,R TO MûROCCO. 221eye, ordppal'el1t elevation, ls so mucll' additional, and accounts too forthat impending appeàrance of thi8 mountain so'strikingly observable.Calculations may he thought perhaps too nice for their objects,or forthe means'we bave of working them.This, however, inust not be admittadw:hereprirlciples, are conce1'ned.Inpractice, no doubt, thongllour objects are' correctness' and,truth, we must inmallY instances, as11e1'e, l'est satisfied with approximations. ·As to the cause of mirage,and the effects of the medium in judging ofthis vast elevation, it is tobecarriedin,mind; that theatmospherical density decreases (in consistentPatios) bothin the advanceto the southern latitudes and in its ownele'\tatidnfTAis, then, isin favour of the elevation.The higher theobject,îne leSsit 18 affectedhJ' this refraction,; and, the distanoe fromthe perpendicular base, at whieh its' summit-point is taken ,in bytheoye, is also proper matter for computation.Pei'haps, if olle-sixteenthhe allowed fol' the enhancement by visual deception, it may afford atü1erable approach at loast to the reality.But it i8 time to quit this()bject, one not, readily lost 8ight ()f, for the present, and proqeed withthe journey.Fifth da.'t/s' journey.-Quitting our'halting-ground, where the Bassayet'remained, having passed the day closely c()llfined, muffied up, paleand languid in,his tent, the ronte was pursucd throughan open countryfor three hbur~, at the expiration ofwhich haIt were caUed in meadowgroundshytheside ofastream, low atpresent, but at timesa torrent.AU thesewateFsdèscend from, Mount Atlas, al1d are deeply, tinged bythe melaHiferou8 (:rnaywesay?) soilof ils skirts.hypothetically.'l'he subject is putWc areirideed under no;obligation to modern lore foraught of consequence as' tô the· natural history of thi8 country.the ancients te11'us,-" In nullas vitiatur opes; non

TRAVEI1S 'INA:!"RICA.The superficial ohservationis excited todeCide very differently as tG)the firstof these articl~s,on viewing the soils. As to the waters, whenthey descend fresh from tllemeuntain..skirts ,here,~iewedin their ,bedsthey are of a blood~reddeep tin~e;: btlt taken upin a glass theyarecolourless, and, for riverwater, excellent. After 'breakfasting,by desireof Saadi Tor Finiss, ,whocould notyetrejoin theescort, it proceededwithout him through an extensive plain, themountain :towering with ttsuccessive range of rounded summits ,on the ,t,4gh,t,and rrugged barremhillocks, by theiroutline,apparently scbistose, dosing,thehorizon ~n the\left. Thisplainis DOW thicJdystudded w;ith Arab camt)S,80~le of\which are prodigiausly numerous in .tents; but the numbers of themin eac~, generally ta'ken,vary betweeD tweD~yand sixty;.The .agci­'Culture of thesepeoplecfi>ntinuesto 'bevery Jar irom .despicahle.Much worseisseen in Europe; and in~ts nrst nations .too.iI~rigation.,however, .ls the'grand ,operative; .it ishere bot'h tuatrix .and stimu!usfor the whitecrops, andlleavy returns are thus produced. As ,here ilan over..proportioD of land to occupants, and as the produceis beyou&the demand, when a tract begins to fail in Hs returns., it is ahandonedto recover its fertil:ity by lime.rrhis process serves the pm'pose of itsArab cultivators; and tracts of excellent arableiand are ,constantly metas proofs, bem'ing the marks of irrigati

ltO'UTE »l\O,M M,oGODOR' TO MOROCCO. ~23,Iaced. Inconsistency"at i least, and: its,conseqp.ences, are not to beeharged tothe state of thingshere.The tower of' the great mosque of: Morocco presents itself dèarlynow to the eye above the' horizon.. The earavan this evening fordedthe riv.erGuadenfiss, DOt- without, considerable trouble (this route couldDot he encountered in1winter) and'evendanger to the heasts,,",of-burthen,.altHougli its waters are now comparatively )(nv·.. HaRwas·made for thenight: on i the east bank of this river.Itinerary, sixth day~-Progress'wasmade this morning across a plain,as leveI;as' a.lake•.'The soil l partakes hère of a considerable admixtureof: sand;.approaching!to·the sandy loams· of England in itscomposition,Aeross theremotestvergeof'dour~;.great .tôw.Aftera ride of saverai hours, haltwas madeatfrom the city, to enable the baggage to join.During this interval'some orthe party rode to a large Arab camp, andwere hospitably received' by, the \VOIDen, the men being aH out at harvest•..Theypresented the Europeans with buttermilk, fresh, and thebest fare t'hey had to· offer. It ishighly relished by the Moors. Thewomen are nearIy black, even the young girls; who had uniformly fineteeth. Butthe.goodness·or regularity of feature possessed by them inearly youth Ieaves thern as they grow up; an effect, very probably, oftheir continuaI exposure, without shade or covering, to the influence ofsun and wibd, and theoffeature occa~ic?nedthereby.French caU the

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.ENTRY into the CITYO! MORocco...;...The cavalcade was now fonnec!in part, in a respectable rank, by the alcaids, and amounted to aboutsome forty files; and as we approached the city our cavalry begantoexercise their leats of horsemanship.Thus weproce~dedon ourmarch to the ~apital, which was concealed from view .wi thin thevast but ,open groves of lofty· palrn-trees which occupy the horizon,while their tops present aparallel level of verdure, bright in the middaysun.Above this line of foliage, sopeculiady ·.cparaç.teristic ofplace and climate, and .to triple .height,[~s~s.the tower of ,~he :gr,fatmosque, insulated, .of dingy red, and its spire with three golden ballstJ;allsn.xed"glistening in the blaze of day. Th~ vast and suowy ·massesof Atlas seemhere almost impending, lipon th.e. Tight; i~s .P~s~ syuhowever invisible, througb the purple dusk of the atmosph

OOMPLIMENT PAID THE EMBAS8Y. 225being as it were one vast burrow of theseanimals~adduced here by theconveniency of supply of watel'.Proceeding onward, we crossed meadows of superlative beauty, andthen came uuder the sh~de of the vast and open paln~-forest which investsthe cityup to its vel'Y~ battlements. Just within the verge of thewood wc found mOllnted, and Jlalted there to receive us, the governororthe city at the head ofa great body of horsèmen, aB in white c1othing,, designated as we were given to undershmd by the style and title of theSultan's friends, (notthe principes jllventutis certainly,) and a corps ofcavah'Y ofabout four hundred, underfive standards, two l'cd, two green,and one striped green and ted.On our cavalcade joining thern, thestandards were faced about, and forrned in our fronts.After due,and not very sutnrnary complimenting arnong the principal personageson ,each part, we proceeded; and were next met by à large group ofml;lsicians an'd dancers, dressed in red and white, in front of whom,borne on a man's shoulders, (too great an honou1' forthose of a Jew,)was a young Moor, who being, on coming up in front of us, set uponhis heels, by the exercise of them speedily announced\the n~ture of hisoffice, itbeing'noother than that of ma1tl'e de ballet to the court of Mo­{occo. For on his signal and exarnple, the group began a wild, and 1.0our ideas, extravagantly gesticulated dance, t.o the music of their harddrums, while, by way of interlude, the cavalry perforrned theircornplipJental'Yevol,utiQns ()f advancing against us at full speed, in Tanks offrom ten to fifteen in frorit, 'hallooing, and firing 1.heir rnul'ike1.s pointedat our faces, and occasionally even discornposing the regularity of Ollrmarch by the irruption of an unruly horse.. For although it is not inthis soldier's-play intended 1.0 hurt,yet as a11 theelegance of the complimentconsists in approa.c11ing as nearly as possible to actually 80(loing, and yet conveying to the person complimented the agreeable2G

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.surprise of finding no bodily injury sustained, the calculation, wit4 themost adroit, becomes so extremely nice, that the slightest error init, onone side, may produce a very severelyfelt effect. This is in.deed the representationof their mode of warfare, of which more temains to he said.Our advance was thus continued towards the city, notwithstandingaIl the complimentary obstructions and difficulties thrown in its way: itwas wonderful, and a proofof consummate skill in this respect, that thecorps de musique and corps de ballet in front escaped with whole. bones,until we approached its walls. Here vastlllultitudes received us withloud huzzas (mark the peripeteiahereafter): they had been evidentlyprepared ; and aH the wall-tops and battlements, their ordinary occupantsthe storks evicted, were covered andfilled with crowds of womcn,.muffied however up to the eyes, to view our arrivaI.This triumphantentry rejoiced the heart of our friend the worthy alcaid Judar (of theSultan's artillery), who took the command of thé escort in the absenceof Saadi Tor Finiss, the latter notafterwards joÏtling us; a circumstancewllich has confirmed speculations already plausible. Judar had nevetceased, during the ride ofthis day, to expatIate with satisfaction on thehononrs conferred upon uS,as here recited, taking care no part of themshould escape notice, and observing to us (what we certainly could nototherwise have known) that the Sultan had sent out sorne of his nearestrelations to bid us welcome.AIl which he had, he said, from a foreknowledgethat it would be so, given us to believe.ever to doubt this worthy man's sincerity.We had no reasonExhausted by heat, deafened with noise, and nearIy stified by crowdand dust, we entered the venerable gate of the city, and within the precinctsof its lofty, dingy, and mouldering w~Ils:proceeding throughnew crowds, between deaù waJIs, over heaps of dilapida:tiIlg r1.lÏ11s andsuffocating dunghills, we at an unexpected turn" and hy instant transi-

ARRIYAL AT MOROCCO.tion, foun~:lo;urs~lves ai once in a delightful garden, secluded, silent,shaded, verdant, and cool; and at full liberty to take our repose. Tosorne hours so passed, reflection and contemp]ationsucceeded; andabundant matter in bothwas supplied. We were now in a country, bethe w'orld's opinion upon the subject what it may, very 1ittle known toit; in the heart of one of very extraordinary manners, at the seat of agovernment eondueted on very extraordinary principles. Our time waslikely to be somewhat limited, and if was our business to be inquisitive.The accounts whieh print has conveyed, down to the present date, arecalcu1ated onlyto excite disgust; the information contained in thembein.g otherwise next to nothing. Tne impression received from them,therefore, as teuding to prejudie~, ought, so far from receiving advertence,.to be banished from the mind. AlI we have to learn from themis the simple faet, that bigotry, in contravention to the ordinary andotherwise most powerful incentives and feelings of human pature, hashere the might, by itse]f alone, to sustain a politieal power establishedhy enthusiasmand fanaticism. To maintain this bigotry, ignorancealone is neeessary. And here she has hitherto reigned triumphant. It.reînains now ehiefly to be seen what moral effects., upon a peoplesostrangely situated as the Moors, m,ay have been the result of the lapse.of half a century.But first to look around.-These preeinets, allotted to lodge the Bri-, tish embassy, are Dot extensive; Dotexceeding in their area two acresof ground; but they are Dot the less adequate' to every. required purposeina climate and situatîon where aIl invites to repose. The wildernessstyle predominates, and to pleasing effeets; the tl'eeS, whieh areaIl fruitr-bearing, heingplanted without order, Beneath them, fountainsthrowup w:ater; andin the centre of the garden IS a colüunaded SUIl1-2 G 2

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.mer-house, of several apartments, around a hall wherein a fountainplays. And the lodging-rooms ~djDining are clark and cool, theformera circumstance of no smallluxury here. The fruit-trees, chiefly orange,lemon, and pomegranate, are now in bearing; and no object can heseen heyond the walls of this retreat, save the snowy peaks of MountAtlas. As much pains seems to have been taken to ohtain humidityfor tbis garden, as we see employed with us at home to procure aspect.The esculent part is studiously sunk and leveHed, to receive and retainit. Sbade seems no nuisance, but rather a nurse to the tender crop be..low; and these square comparttnents for produce (the soilis a black.vegetable mould)' are forfued by raised walks of a breadth of severalfeet, of masonry, four or five feet above their level. These walks beingvery neatly incrusted, over their whole surface, with gay painted smalltaes, the grouncl whereof is white; it may be judged how effec'tualthisarrangement must he for the purpose of retaining humidity, which infact is aH that it is here requisite to produce. Being arrived thus withinthe royal precincts, forçsuch these are, about the hour of one è/clock,the Sultan's principalofficers came, by his m~jesty's command, to bidus welcome. The scene around reminded us of Sir William Temple'saccount of the Moorish monarch of hisday.-His words are: "Thusthe present King of J\!lorocco, after having subdued aH his eompetitors,passes his life in a country villa ;-gives audience in a grove of orangetreesplanted arnong pU,rIing streams ;"-a description conveying aH thegrateful impressions of rep()se and picturesque, and which it is to behoped retnained UnaUoyed by any disagreeah1.e· features in th,e background.-Allconesponds essentially with the accnunts which the ancientshave hancled down to us; aU which, howeverdesultory, appear,p.erfectly correct, and furnish a picture far more accurate, as weIl as

CI'l'Y OF J\1:0ROCCO.plensrJig, though onIy outlines, than any we .have received froma modernhand, clown to the present date of being here.Thus the poet perfectlycoincides with the scene around us when he says," ---Tantum Maurusire gentiRobol'a divitire; quarumnort noverat usum, .Sed citri contenta èornis vivebat,ct umbra."rrimes and terms may have changed, butJlere isaba;sis of.con~istency,If a golden age has disappeared here in one sense, progress has beenampIy made in itinanother.Corruption may engraft itself upon primitivemanners, but these latter will remain whcre fpunded in Nature.MoraIlife certainIy baR not improvedin the change.Investigation has,bot yet come toa due definition of these botanical terms; but hereseems no l'easol1 to r'dnge in quest!ofnew matte}', when the fact come,splainlybefol'e nsin the presentday. 811Ch is now actuallj the llloqe oflife~CITY of MORoeco.-.The Bocanum Hemerum of the ancients \Vas-situated somewhel'e about this part of the plain, and by the radicalterm is indicated to have been a seat of govemment.Thuswe find aBogh Ud,a Moorishking, attbe battle behveen .Cœsar and Pompey.Eut ther~ ,vas a180 on the Maurbeya river, \,hichdiscbargesat Azamor,a vcryancientcily named Ta:MaroG.Among these radical terms hereis ground-work tOI' mueh confusion ina non.literate language.Butlet not thecla8sicalsystem of deriving ancient words froll] (quoad them)modern te1"mshopelo avai1itself thereof; here itmay rest assured theprospectis utterlj comfortless.'l:'he radical topographic tenu fneansanjwide e~panse offlat: .land orwater. It was appropriated to thistract lon1g!ere the Marabou fanatics, ortheir propt~et, were thoughtTlie general diffusion of a word through the .ramifications ofproves the depth of its foot; and tbis is the case in regard to main 10-

230 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.cafepithets here.Whether the first-mentioned ancient site, as knownto classic'lore, quoted above, wtre here or not, or whether the capital ofthe ancient rulers of this country were on the MaU1~beya river, it is stillplausibly believed that a more ancie~testablishment of Imman associationwas planted in this site of Moroccobefore the present city wasfounded by the Marabous, or lVloravidi (doctors), in the tweIfth century,when they rescued the plain from the domination ofthe pastoralArabs under their Sheiks. l'his was in the Caliphat of Keyem, these seientificor theological occupants of the plain being headed by their chief, Texapin, whose c1aim, beyond success, to the honour is not explained.In about half a century after, however, and about the year 1170, thegreat Jacob AJmanzor(the conqueror) sat on this throne. This 8eems to11ave been subsequentIy to the period when, the Moiadi or Ommiades(the pupiis now grown toogreat for their instructors), from the high...lands of Atlas, roused by Fatimites who Bed to those fastnesses From theAbassides in the east, descended into the plain, and struggled for·thedominion of it with the Moors. Bere then we s.ee ,a coutest, the invadersout of the question, between the two primitive races, Moon~ of theplain and Brebers of the mountain, and fanaticism guiding in everycase the bolts of war.This power at least blew the trumpet as s'oon asthe l\t[ussu]man creed reached the mountains; and this city, as weIl asthe country with it, .was subsequently struggled for and possessed, asthe contending parties could muster force, or as accident favoured violence.The Mate of pupilage seems to have been felt as insulting;for it is doubtfui if the distinction was submitted to for more than hàIfa century, though no strengthofmeasure was omittedtosustain it. TheArab power, however, seems to havere-established itself untiI the na..,tion was enfeebled by the defeat of rrolosa in 1212; anditÎs probablethat the :Moiadi Fatimite&, a branch of whom went. into and reig:ued i:u

CONTENTIONS FOR TH.E SOVEREIGNTY. ~31Spain, were powerful, until that event, on both ~ides the Straits. Buton this blow to the Arab power, the Beni Merini, a faction headed bya governor of Fez, seized the throne here, and held it until supersededby the Oalazi, whose history is the most obscùre of an, but who weresucceeded by tpe Xeriffs (not the present dynasty). Such is the principalondineof C\'entswhich have affected this place. Cnriosity inducedone of his majesty's sons to pay the newly arrived Christians anearly visit.This young man seemed about twenty years of age, wasweIl grown, being full six feet high, ofjet black complexion, rode on amule, was attended by two servants, and foUowedby two beautifulgreyhoul1ds.__cc The prince then pass'd' the gate,Two dogs behind, a faithful guàrd await."Conld the parallel.be carried on betweenthe youthful hope of Ithaca,and the present specimen of royalty in Morocco, candour should forbidits stopping; but with regret be it said, Pallas had withheld her fosteringhand, and aU \Vas as Nature leftit; for little care indeed, evenhere onearth below, appeared to have been bestowed on this youngprince's education.On the contrary, he appears. to have been on thisarticle, in the phrase of the comedy, "at large." After being annoutlced,and having sat down, on a chair and in the European rnanner(itis noticeahle' as very unusual), he 10Ued and stared around himforsome time in .silence : his eyes were, however, at length attractedby the glitter of a gold watch:'chain, the appendage of one of the party,and he made an alert and sOla,rt gr~pple ta.seize the ternpting trinketto his use; but meeting with too strongan opposition from the persanprincipa,lly concerned ta retaiIl it,and the l'est of the company pos­.ses.sing no great interest for him, he arase, gave a nad of his head, andtook his departùre in silence.-Next appeared two men sweating un-

'l'RAVELS IN AFRICA.der the load of a handbarrow, whereon was ,placed an enarmous chinabowl fiIJcd with the pride of the national cuisine, cuscusu.Thisoeingdeposited, was followed hy an entire shcep, skinned indeed, and bearfngevidenceof having undergone the processof the kitchen, but appafentlyyet possessing its intestines as in days of yore. The équivoquewas, however, speedily solved; for, incision being made, a bounteousdischarge of contents cxtruded, ready dressed, in various fanciful for111sofpuddings, forced meats, minc;ed meats, and indescribal&leet-ceterns,wherein it seemed as if this Arabesque taste had beeb trainedto adheretaihe modes of Nature...And the: process altogether brought to ourminds the theatrical contrivances ofTrimalchio's fcast, to break the te..clium of that greatest'bf ail trials of Imman endnrance, a grand couvert.One word more here in bidding farewell to the subject of the Moorishcuisine, a national subject every whère worthy of a strangef's notice.Fdr it is one whcrein, it is to be aomitted, he must bear a daily interest.It must have appeared already, as fiow, thatstoicism doesnot ,fuldhèl'eupon this subject as in Spain. In fact, tbis proves itself alandof plentyin the fullest sense; ând the eifects of this are obvious in the weil ·shotupt anô full fotins of the people, who never appear to have undergone,in any step of their mortaljoumey, a pinching process.Yet, if itbetrue, as it unquestionabfyis, as often said in the best ùrganizedsoCieties,that one halfof mankind is ignoranfhow the oth~l' haJf lives, doubleobscurity attends :he subject here.l'he population ofthis city, inits myriads, denr of rags and famine, is a problemin statistics hithertoinsolubJe.-But.to return tothe kitchen, and to an artidé which lakesa Jead in it, and by its eifects certainly cannot be offensive to the humanframe,howevet much so it may he to the senses.This composition,thongh not presented to usat a regularmeaJ, which we Wéref)'eqUèntJytempted with on the foUte, on, the occasion when that e'llitremet of the

tab~canedintnocler. èleganee (' lunëb·,*,J·· was judged opportune, iieollstÎ'~utedas follows. Beef or eanu~rs flash· is stewed in rancid butter,honey, saifron, and a plentiful inf\lsion of tUât drug caUed origanum,u$Cd byus in horse-baUs,and whertrwithour rat..catchorsperfume themselv~sto Lâttracttb~ir!.m.e.r.th.tl.$;~t'e~red, and with salt and otherspices, it will keep a Iength of timé;i:~:this·çliJuâte,andit i5 scrved upcold, in general use.-The conveyanceof:tha barggàge WOUr quarterswas consigned totheJe.ws. Sttange transition~oflife become the lots ofsorne men.Tbepersoll'âppoillted to attend on the diplomatie missionofBritainis a native (jfconviètèd, and Doed by bis niasterin the fu1l amount of aIl he posse55ed.2u

,234 TRAVELS IN AFR1C.A.l t should seern as if' the 'resignation, inculcated by his creed(beatingmisfortunes like a philosopher, if not a Christian,) was not the part.ofit which had ma

PRESENTIN:G OF THE BRITISH EMBASSY. 23,5~l&arge;wa.s ;rem.&rked'on, that "the·Sulfanhad severalyears goodser­"ice tf)ie~poot out'of him yet." (So completeIy, it seems, do aIl tllesepeople consider the monarch 'the breath of theirnostrils.) The inflexible'delity ,of

TRA.VELS IN. AP;RJCA.coqrtie,rs, greatmell, andguatrds,apparentb ~bpnttwelYe ~~nd~ed~titînumber. The whQle of thes~ people WeJ;'e flli~~eq,iJ)·iptu·~: ~hite.tl1c"totaLeKeet of w.hicb was 11)erely varied, b'yi~l~gbtjstf~Çl.lisof red fro.c~ps, 5abre-scabbards, and .. belts;andi\vit~:the ilv!li,~e\Yf\lls, ,brigblyeJl().~ sands, anc;l 8corching noon,.d~'y.: glaJ1€l;u~,a11p3ePb.Y ShaQ6c alverdure, gave an eKect totaUy novettR ;~q.çoRe!1l}je'ye~:.Theeru;baf)$'~was placed in line wi.th .the qoprof;:t4~~oS~\lfi'Lat!i ,.,h1~,hrS:toOQ ;t~8ultan'$ .. horse, and by which, wias aJso, i le~i~g; ai3lÏI)~·~t~e 8iiIJl;, ;hi~·crimson mnbrella, tbe primitive ('is\ipqtiR~îL9fjllQy~ltMt In a~Q1J,l.jtr hal~an hour I~lore, we ha.d the; sa\i.~{aet,~Qn to~ee[ lJis. tlV1lajesty come out,mount his borse, andapproa,ebus. He had been, thus, fuUy t'f9h'()ufSlemployed in the dutiesQf devotioo. On. ~9\lntiog his hOl;se, thecrimsQn umbrella was hoisted. over bis h~a~,an~,whilstturning continual1y with a rapid motion.5

,DELIVEltl.NG 0)' ~ltED~N:œIALS.T~lé

Sultan thenasked, if Great Britain ,1)·ad made ..peace withAmeriea?Alldan answerbeiflg givenin the affirm~tive, he waived fur~herdiscourse,turnedhis horse, and rode away. 'Vhereupoll . the embassy re- .turned to,itsquarters. The pres~nts,lJOwever,'lvhich were partly>\)eld~n the 'bands 'Of tbose who had charge of them, andpar:tly lo~qed,on'backsof mules~ aIl formed, for the audience, im a rank behind theenvoy,r.emained where they weœ.Suell was the procedure of thefirst interview withthe Maurita.niansovereign, who was no more seen, save py.the cbiet'oftl)è embas~y andhisjnterpreter, during the remainderof the time passed in his capital;1where two gratifications, certainJy not usually Iooked for in such situations:,retirement and leisure, were enjoyed in their full extent!It is even more easy to rescue the ancient part of the history of thiscountry from obIivion, than. to débrouiller the modern part, interwoven,as are its eventful and political mazes, from the contentions of the twoprinciples of action, the black army and the haram,whichhave succeededto the phrenetic efforts of fanaticism. Yet wbo, possessed ofreasOn' tbat visits a foreign country, one i~Jactalmost new tonQtice,would permit bimself to remain igno,rant ·of moral causés, merely becausethey are deep-seated?' could view effects., wühout wishing topenetrate to their causes?Supposing, on the otller hand, a publicliterary taste 80 perverted by bad l'natter as only to be gratified withfrivolities,-are there not many morereasons tban one to calI out theexertion of an independent .pen f Adoption as we~l as selection,coucentrationas weU as condensation. of matter are occasionaHy requisiteto put it in a .clear light to the mind, when moral complicationspreseutthemselves for investigation, as is the case here, where such extraordinarycombinations have atfected and affiicted human nature.TheJlÛnd bent on pushing the probe of investigation to the utmost~must

SUCCESSION TO THB THRONE. ~39nave strongerreasons to induce itto desist, than shallow observers areable:tourge.SaadilToméd Èbu Abdallah, the present Sultan, succeeded his fatherMuley,Abdallah, who died in the yEmr'1757.Muley Abdallah suoeeededMuleyHômedDebby,who died in the year 29 of the lasteeniury. Muley' Bomeci, Debby succeeddd the tremendous Muley1shmall, who was the successorof:'MttleyArshid, 'which latter diedin;1672. His predeoessor, w~s· Muley. Mohommed, son of Muley AH,king of Tanlet br Sugulmessa, by eleotion.'fafilet, otherwisc Sugulmessa, lS an annexation hy conquest to this,empire, effected by Joseph Abu Texüphin" the leader of the Moravedi;.or Mar

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.the reaeh of inelinatioo thanhappin~ss is, a greater latitude llligtltbeassumed in this article than was allowed to the King of L,Ydia........Buttorevertto, the dj,gre$ionn.owengaged in, and the Xeriffor hQly famiJ~·Tafilet.When the race.of the Moravedi kiugs was ex.tinguished in the;civil wats ofMofOCCO, the people of Tafilet rect\lrred to the Xeriffracein the person of thisMùley Ali, whom they elected their king, aboutthe ycar l:SOOlil'. He'was a private individuaI, born at Yambo nêar:Medina, of the tribe of I-lachem, a branch of the Beni Hassan, descendedfrom the Prophees, daLJghtel'Fatirna. .']?bis dynasty bas ~tfectedmÙr\ch;for the,d,escendant,s. f)f rMUley;Àli,Keritf were ):[uleyArshidAAd,rMuleyrI~htQail,t~ollf)or;glY~~dsOlllr,isapointDot very clear, but theirQwtherwasa negress).Mu1e;Y Arshid annexecl Fez and 8ys (Gretulia)tohis empire.Ue.also.reduced and combined the Arab polygarchy oftbesc plains intosomewhat of a political state; and his brotherand$uccessor Mul~ycQmpleted the work.Ishmail, by the unlimited prerogative of his sabre,'l'he conqueror Arshid left children; but Mtdeybbllt

RESIDENCE AT MOROCCO. 241solitary castle, onhls brother's death deposed his nephews, like ourRichard the Third, to whom he appears to have borne a O1ost singularresemblance, and seated himself upon the throne in 1672, being thenabout fiftyyearsfof age. He is thus describedby Buznot, and i,s too,remarkable a specimen of what .human nature may be, to be allowed topass into"oblivion, while anyresuJtmay bepresumed on inpreventingit. The picture given ofhim at'the age of eighty, by this priest, is asfollows. He was of middling size, spare and lean, his beard white andforked, hiscomplexionalmost black, with a white spot near his nose,his eyes vivid, and voice strong. 80 active was he then, that he alwaysmounted .his horse bJvaulting: of a ready and sprightly wit, antici..pating the thoughtsof those who addressed themselves to him, andreturninganswers alwaysshOJ:t; anÇlpift1)y. Brave and undauntedindanger, mistrustful, and of wOllderftJ), constancy .and. resolptio.n underadversity; as indeed his history prove.s; no change of fortune ever appearingto bave affec.ted his spirits or exertions. Muley Ishmail had,amongsthis numerous wives, one Englishwoman. It wouldbe cpriousto know, were it possible to learn, how these so capriciously treatedvictims of fortune are mentallyaffected by their fate. To judge bywhatisfobservable in theothé~ sex, it would be but slightly. Thus, too,the pillatieal system .hasprod~ced blêndings,. the connexions o( whic~,welle they tOflneet, (wauld require a. strongsympathetie effort indeedofthe fordeofbloodtol'ecogniseeach other bYe This c~pital, the u:qfor..tunate citJofMorocco,seems tobave been ordained for affliction fromthe day its foupdations were first laid. lt is the bon~ of the contentionêJf'stifug'glingparties~•. Thus,·. itwas the. 'scene chosen for warfare by thesons pf Muley Ishmail, in their revoJts. As.()tl here is as lnuch astateenemy asa hrothe\' is in Turkey. As to Muley Ishmail, we hardlyfind in dassical history any parallel for one who combined such great2 1

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.and sncb tremendous qualities. Melancholy to think, but ~the procèssof investigation tends to prove it, lessviolencewonld nothave governedhis statc, snch as it was.Hedied in hished, 'whichwas hardIy tobesupposed. But he was feared and respected. StiU moreextraordinary,his successor, HomedDebby, was replaced upon the duone.The Ca..:ligula of his nation found adherents in adyersity: A short abstract ofthe events of his day i8 requisitc to understand Morochian 'politics~ andwhat human nature is here.Homed, AbdnlmeUc,' Ali,ancl Abdallahwere the sons of Ishmail. HomedsUcèèe8edni'sfathetc~n'tiheY'êarli27.He was

POLI'I'ICS OF MOROCCO. 243into effect: ready;llands .never. being wanted when tlle word is given fora human victim to he consigned io the torture. And actual torturehad fashion to hear it thr.ough at the court o[that day.H;omed Debbyis càlculatedto~aveput'.to deathfifteen hundred persons with his ownllands, exclusive.of the vestiges of his cruelty in maimed, disfigured, andw:ol1aded. Yethehad aV,eryl.o;n,g reign,. ap.o,werful party in his support,and died at last as unmolested by resistancefrQm. without,as byconscience from within. Soc true it is, thatthere is no order of things inpolitics 80 monstrous bu.t what will find supporters, llnd by the samerule, t.oo, advocates, (in tbejustificatory sense to which the elegance ofmodernphraseologyispleased to prescribe the term,) in those countrieswhene,asis o.y;no means tbecase here, it is customary to talkuponmatters .of state.W~ereJç\i1tp,cannotappear, a cev,tain degree of pi~y,should attendinculpatipnupon, theseevils. rhecour~iers of his reignpartook of his disposition, and were ruffian-like and ferocious; thefaults of the present day here, for no day nor place is without its peculiarones,are ·of a different complexion, but analogous derivation." ----- -~-our bloodsNo more obey t~e heavens, than our courtiers' ;Still seem, a:5 does. the king'so"l"..çl1ei~q}b.~S~Y recqrded by Braithwaite was to thissultan; that of 'Vindu;s.~.~ltqhi.~ {Çl,1h~[ lsbmail; who, though he appeared to sport'\vithtlle~iv:~s;q[.;l1is.s9l>jects,ashis s;çtcredc;haracter, and their convictionIII favour ofit, âlh~\Vedhimt9do,-'~qrbloodshed from the supre~ehandhere oever causes alllllrmu~,-was yetofso tender, sentimentally tenderadispositioll i~.2t11erJ:)oints, that kid or lamb never appeared at histable,çould n.otfind' in I11s heart to separate the young >'If1/

244 TRAVBLS IN AFRICA.from its parent/'-" "Ve t'J'ust we have a good conscience."-The son,vas to the father, what Caligula was toTiberius. But fari hence

PECULIAR MODES OP PUNISHMENT. 245ticeolhis predeceSSOifS, aU these ultimate awards are deàlt out with aDliticga.tedhand.Thus dismemberment is now the usual punishmentfor~ crimes, whereby death is supposed to be earned. The hand or footis usuallyamputated. Boiling pitch is the grand panacea. Surgery isnearly put on the shelfby the adoption of this mode. Ii obviates aHnècessity for bandages, tourniqtlets" or dressingsil A kettle of it is athand over the fire, the stump is'dipped iuto it, andthecriminal limpsoff as well as he can,no further inquiry being made concerning him.'j'hemos! assiduous anddexterous thief in Tangier was a man who hadtnus lost both his hands by the stroke of justice, and preserved his lifebythe foregoing process. Thus, of course, it will be perceived that his,incotrigrbility \Vas on a par with his other*qualities. Nocharacter on,classical record in thisway has everequaUed him; for' the great hero of;antiq'uity, in the thievingline, was eminent byhis physical forces. As.Witherin~ton used his stumps to fight on, so this head of the profession,used his tosweep the loose change off the shop.counters in the Bezar,into the folds of his c1othing. And it maybe supposed he did not fail:ta make good use of his legs while they were left to him. Sorne depythe statement that this sultan's hand has no tinge,of blood upon it,and Jassert the contrary aseye-witnessesto reiterated instances. Snch is the'l1eUanceto beplaced on hnman testimony! For. it is a stri(;'t fact, thathe.ncvet did put a man to death with his mvn, hand. The real case is"thatthe leaning bias of mankind, narrators and audience, to theworst,side of the story, is sncb, that we may very logically conalade, a fav,our·,able tale, having nothingbQt its tl'uth to recommend it to favonr,. is,most probablypossessèd ofthatHl..reqeived. quality to sustain. it;­although, indeed, truth and probability combined are unfortunately'fei'y feeble powers to drag their charge against tbe force of the moralcm'rent. This may înduce us to strike off a round number 1' 80 from the

~46 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.items. in the account against his majesty's uncleand predecessQ~,HomedDebby. But, in regard to himself, it ,must be admitted that th~.;çhi;1rge11as been very near capabilityof substantiation.. Des.potism ~~s Dotsucceeded to emasculate .the 1\;;[001'. One.of hjs o:ffi.cers,.th.~.Ilking h.im~self wrongedby him, express~d him.self 80 firmly in the royal presence,that the Stlltan,.enragçd, drew his sabre, and euthim ()ll the heao, witha sodefinitively intended effort, that the ,veap9n, by.theviolenee ofit,flew out ofhishand. The offieer took it from.•the.ground,wipçd,.andpresented it ,to his master to finish the bus~n~~s;~hieli.,l~.ij.r~ss~.ve in"stance of resigned resolution sa stl'uckthe despot, thathe relented,sheathed his sword, .and.tookhim inta favour ever after. If, however,hebe compuneti0'tsas tolife, the like canrlot he .by anymeans ~aidjn.his, pr&ise in regard to property ; and as acquisition is the predom,:nantpassi~m of the MooT, (what a foundation for national advance!) ,and hevalues his possession more than his life; several instances have occurredGf desperation excited on such occasions. Thus, inregfl.rd ~() COPl't,iavourites, so far as. dealings with foreÎgnersi;1re. cOllce.rnep".the.golgenrule the Sultan acts by,(or he is foully belied,)is, to affix a mini,mumupon the possible receipts, by way of briheryor otherwise, of th08e whohave the happiness ,of hasking (it is no place for slumbering) in thesun-shine ofhis favour, and he imposes his taxes on them by this seale.He thus, at least, cannot charge them with mercenary views.Ifbe.didsa, they might retort, with justice, equal to Ancient PistaI onhis master," Didst thou not share? Hadst thou noLfifteen~-pen.ce?" TI~epreseIl,tS4ltan has a shrewdnes5 not to be deceived. He evidentl'y is of opinionthat the worst people in his dominions are ,t!1Qse..who aggregateabout his own person, and he treats them accordingly. Thushis chiefvengeance, confiscation, upon that most convenient politic.al principle(since adopted in Europe) of making crimination a' SOlll'ce()f revenue,

CHAltAC'Jj]Ut OF THE ~ULTAN. 247is unremittînglYSèrffotced onthem; whereas death or corporal sufferingis in:6icted on the lowest classes withcomparative lightness.In his,various points of concurrence with bis predecessor Ishmail, he lS' noticeablein thinking;

248 TRAVIU,S IN AFRICA.COQI, and ail is forgotten. The same cannot be sftid of the Arabs,.whoarelittle scrupulous about human life.An awkward opinion, however,. lurks in th~ mindsof (certainly toomany) Mussulmen, that the shortest and easiest way to beayen is ,byJluUing an infidel out of the way here .on elitrth. This is not MohOlumedanmoral; but it was once. politics,...an,d it stilllurks in the shape ofprejudice. The promises of the houris of Paradise, graven in ston·e,are yet extant in Spain, to such as shaU dip the points of theirsp.earsin;Christian blood; and tO eradicate .. suchde.ep...seated ;ideasJ.cannotbetbe. work ofa day, no, nor of a sel7ies of centuries, with any branch ofmankind.Saa

THENEGRÛES.deprajJ'v~d0Î'1i"~~"tf~~W)#'ipritlèesYarerebellious,and compal1lons withtl1ie;ves."THe present Sultan i8 universallyconsidered as mi1d, brave in war,filèkle, sav:ef;fn';;wiia:t)iregard'shis own immediate interest, and very much'fia:tt~retoinvestigatehowfà:fthe lillouldings of the hustma.;y 'follùwoT (levi~té fr()mf1'ÎheN'ê.~îgromÔdificâfiolls; a 'lnere visitanthismajesty'scourt cângotbesupposed to dêcide. Butit is noharmto caution Europeans, how far tlIey ventute tocommit their own acumefiagainst 'that which issupplied fI'om the interior of this specimen ofthe!seat oflleason*"', and notto ,place too much rcHance on epidermis orOr61!1'lum.These Blacks,wheit they ubtain valid p0litical title to whitel'Jcople, the havil1g gotteti thetn, no matter b:r what means, .int0 theirll,l'indsrmaintain,andsubject the.rn tono ha:rd'ship, save restraint~ rrhe..Nèg~o~lscuU!.~s i.lis~i,Qgtii~ba:biebyJll!itltes$ Qf the sidtl bones (sueh as Qcwrs,asage ad­Vl!i?C~S, to t~é desceQdantsof ~he other spllsofNQl!ih.) Seerrel!itise on S1f,~llj~, and the ingenioustract on the seale of ascendenéy of talent from black to white. Sorne Iittle mistake, however, has.occurredin. thé calcJikttiÔtls,Hlkethl1!ottwhi~!spoil~ Gûm"er~s srt'it ofctothes in ,the flying iSlandof ~hilosoph~rs."...• But the ~~sults do!not t~Hy;;;rheN~o ,skuU is.nQt w9re iStrong1y distinguishedthan the Scythianor Abyssînian. .Asto tint, ~his is regulated ~Y the daims of nature and clinlate.Gertainsupérior muscularp'owers of '-exertion in the toe~of the Negro J;ace havebeen alleged asan argument for denying it .the daim to aparticipa~on in humannature. But, Withal1 dere!"renee, this natural aeeomplishment only l'l'oves the danger of possessing superior talent under in­&lspi.cio\Js circumstances.2K

aHt~ori;tJ forth~ fÇ}ct,~at tb~~l:Il~ MWl'f$: i\"I@·l1u.l,eààQlil~~·I'lwl"ransom of each Christian of nationsat pesee with him, from tDeÂra~:of the SOiql~,isp~~ t9 ~~~1:l~ttl(i1.~~IjlJ:aps,aIl ,tQ~h.e"f;SQ:i·.uch~ay ~o.t btl ~H~wa~l~ to SiJiY~S ~.• ·t'b:e· ft.JlfilU1Qâ~of)1lih6'pYlil.tm\bl"'~_"se;~tl~~eJ!lt bcttwe~n \b~ I;Îpn···aPd tbe.. ja4klJi.fn~,,·~ot_Li.a,s!p1t •.dl1ctive of a st~ict~alaa~. the .kn~wlt plTQ'~*16n:,h

'.dftp~e')0 • .,~,'(ji_x!an·krr". 'l'hem 'l'eweri~ iom~ but nobod11olGws.h.e ,bd Ïs ~o œer."-N"otwithstadding hm majesty's hesitatioDior fœ:.hearance on the subject of scaling hi.séli'with Anistidesr,. SUiltan Ïs tnelCI~. Nt tlf!l!i"\fclsal.wusea'mong bis; 0~Ji subjects in speaking ofhim" aStirltte'lt:0f ,~$)thata'6lopl~e.dl:;b_:&14tro'peatiSr.lnd!olence is not hisreprmach.H_f!~\OeswnotSla'DkÎ!Dto tlle:l'tltihar~,of.•e ..Mohomme~ani louds! mfthe',Eas~,Gl~ma.te;SrCems·fia: baY1e lesS! etFectofeliel'\\'atii01If upmn8!DÂrab:èhan .Boy~thimtemigrati@r.lndolenctc" inld.kled, docsr J!lotseènl' toc have lJeenever th.~,bidf prino.ipleof~het:lu'otll~·.ftniscountvy. The: constitutioDalf hi.~ms.: fotf the fsiD80f tihe peopU~". tohave :meeni to the opposite side~tes:t:lelSn:éSsoi, ., Th~':'vices :of_altaflion,.amrhition,! anwavamee, S'trug~Ie.!But

TRAVELS IN APRICA~dallah is a strongly.,marked character in human nature, and}'

ACCO'UN'.l'MR. ROENTGEN.'1hi!il"a,a;tll;',c'ilte;,~niÜS'I,;thehal;anceof the Cc trade.of' conversion heing 'soC}ôlls'rderabay on the Mohommeda;n, side as it otherwisewould.They doJlotconsicierit any triumph tnmists. .AHthose who, are, caU a· renegaJe,H. ;has' hecm: a;lreaidy, notioed·Wihatv:Jotims,these..pe,opIeiare·ofthecapcices of fortull1'.e.,Creole,.aad to, have brought property "withhiul.Qne nowlle:r:e isa. .FreriCihnlan,snippQsed' &;isinnkno""~n"It~€luld.'be,lparned, from, no ene but himself.withhiJ:tu,howevc;r, his wife.Butindeed his historyHebroughtiJilut he put on the red cap, and receive«tla:eN;DMUie'i0f Mu~y Ed.Diss·~.. Neithev satisfied with theseepithets,l11ol.:1ghboi~@Diificand sacneEl, norwiththecountry wihichhestowt:d·them~aS' 'rt gllve 11imiDothiDg~0reiso};id'te. maintain.the .. dignity, he wished;totry the world,anew" aud h;ireÇlarS'panish bark to smugglehimselfandwife from thispallt of ii.But.this he fou.nd a thing' more difficult'to dofriend of Mr. R.'s, in consequence sent to Azilla; but the intelligen~e could not be ascertained. Amonth afterthis, a Jew from M'eql1Înez toM Mr. Court that lie nad seen and spoken to the renegadein that city, and tl1'1t tberenegadewas very shy of speaking to him. Mr.Gourt concludestl1at therewas ver.y little doubt but that MI'. Roentgen was murdered by this man. As the dollars,the mules" and the various articles with which they were laden, were'sufficient plunder, the wretch;m.ight hàveneglected tostripîhe body othis he~efactor andfriend'of the articles which the Moorf'otllI

tll~1l tOi get he~e. He was seized in the attem~f,; aat:hou. wifc:h·as·somceemp10ymelltin the royal h&rem.'l~h.e·Jistof presents and. artÏ!clestr~D_iüedfon'·'bis ;occasion to·hismajestY'eomprised1:agold m!pe_ml~wa:lEh, aliso ODe wbiclthiS1 majestylladsent ta Engbuld tQbe .rep&incul.-~ somebal~s,ofi scarlet,. and. somell _.Ille dpth; a..IlSoth.linfYl"cûght hales. of fin€! linenby h:isdoW!nldesir6{;. .. ~mdl,_batwas most. hlgh~y esteemedoi abl,so'gRe alJJcJtea.. 'l'ke~atti'eaJ-••aderivcd from thcuse of th:iJs ]~aiit8 aspower;fœla;}t ab1ïrae:tilve.h:œ~:e as'. Rngland i • .As a prooiho\\{ hilfhl~ i11 smndS! ime-stim,aûan in :fi&:15.country, no fewerthan fùur natioHs, :aritisl:r, Spanishc, 8\v-edas an7(i]J.nts:;h,. at< ~bi~ J»Qrn~llt. b~l'.~" (l1owe~,er. S.QIlle ofth~m procured i t,). aU,canenr, amca" . €ln ,bOll

"Iue'Wlii.t>.Jli.k+;~>1>llt.,ftd"o>Fgan ûonstilute;d' a p'rtrt of tllèse prôphiatory~flerings,and 18 Sl!li1d tohàve entertained the ladiésof the rojaI hatemin' ai ~eryeminen t degree; nay" people even 'Vient so fat âs tosay thattbeears ot~majesty l'ts·elfcgndest~etldédto recerve gratification, and' the'ltatlds!to·ta.lteal'l0tletâtiv1e]!>,art in tMseIegant selection of hartnony•.J:il'll11e'id lil. is,heFe wasn6Apô}J6t6contedd'Wi.th,anô i the ô'eeision l'ft fâ..i.6l1r of iti'spipes was· attendediwithno 1"l8kto tHeg~at\so't'it'a~teitrmus;i~, such as befell a former monarch whenhe deviated. in'to jud.gè..·menf!s upon n:Jatters out of hisHne.. However, it is necessary fdr thelenefit'of flI türe diplomatists, who, as-ifsonletiTlles happens, may haviêmatteFs,cf>l1fiided to tlleir atrangemerl't,of\vltieh they aret1at· perteefly(#lIiifàit~ sta·te' the emharrassmént' wbicl\ôéCt1rred, hete, and' whitifl;narder tn tJe tra'llsmitted~ appliêat'ion ·1\7'as tifcourse mad'èW '1:Hi5'instru..:Ment', tg try how far ifs tgnes were responsive toexpectatidn; l'nIt.othi~?g couid ue extracted save inarticu'J1ate querulous sounds, 111gH:and low, interspersed ,vith interruptions of agon)?: and an eft18rt taextract a more' favourable return was, after repeated trials, ahandoned;in despair~ Certainly, had'it been presentedin its thentemper,it wouId'have CO');11e as'a, moststrange p,opitiatofY' pro~ogue. StiH; trusting t6the affinityafits diS!cordwith tlle nationalharmny, whiehil seemeditd,resem1:Jle' ina 'v;êry;.consi.derabl@dègree,., it wasdeterrninedit should;gowith ail ifs imperfecti'on8 on 1118 head.But an obtrusive' visitofthe'}'ren'ch renegacle Ehliss, who, like him; wt:rose 'Oame he bore,appeared,never to sleep, and whose earswere aS'UiIel't as l1is'èyes, totally sub.··verted allspeculations tothiseffect:Luekilyitwasdiscovered, just at,the momentethe causewnsah0ut to he finaUy abandoned,that the leadl\veighfU.t"ft. tfle ,béllowshad been--misplaced.

l,h,"""""'l'RAVELS lN AFRIC A.law of the court to appear unshod (half éômpliance subvel.'tèll.,3once) is ofmos·t ancient derivation;" Take OffYOUl

THE S:PANISH E'MBASS'Y 'BEttE.lti.r~jc.ti,qaè$;;pas8MlOintbèni hy those nearesf at band to judge, ifdet~*l.edjwouldaff0rdm:àtter far more inviting to maIicious curiosity thantp.'îmatufe reflection, save asa subjectof avoidance. That labour topt:ove the perf(:lc'i'rectitude and infaUibility of ourownjudgement, inaU our opinionsandad.options .howevec minute and inconseqnentia);tht) total disinterestedness ()f ourarduotisand laborious exertionsÎn,the:a.ffairs where others are ecmcernedasweU as. we; our geGel'(i){Js disregardof time, trouble., andexpense; and the unmitigated erroneous.,.uèss.of those we negotiate.with, hàve this unfortunate consequence con...necterl wirh tllem, tllat the mQoo triumphantly we succeed in our arguf8~nt,the further we areofffromour object. A.nd in the ·contest ofnegotiation;here, he it obser\~ed, a consirler.a,ble deposit is madt) a pre­Hwinary,al1 which,is fO;rfeited in. case of failure•. Iadeed, th(:lmos't,adroitdiplomatistmustfeelihim~(:llf in a difficulty,· where no' tenurepr.esents itselfforhim to ding to, national or personal.The iobjec.t of tbe Spanish mission DOW here was bostility to England.It was pl'Obably denived frem French suggestion.. The mode in which·:t,he 'boit wasshot, was in form of an application foranexc1usive tradeta Tangier.. In re~urn for this, they o.ffered the choice of any threepoirts in Spain., to be duty-free to the subjectsof Mor9cco: a propos3:1eertaicnly. highly beneticial to the èountry at large, hecause any ope.uiqg.of acomme.)leial.na,ture lllustbeso. But itwa.s made to

motive& of conduct, which. sWIaJ mankiqd in:the0dle!.qqa~ersl.o~tlt•.globe. The Spaniards have never neglected or been deticie»t in an,!occasion whichpresented itself of maintaining a good, footing here: as.for instance, whenapplications WIere made, twoyearsago, at the courts,.gfLondon and Madrid respectively, for ships to"convey ,pr~sen t& hemce.,ta Canstantinop;le, the ,latter immediately dispatched a ship of wan;while theformet, ,with a tardy acquiescence, now sendsamerchant~ve~sel at the end of two yeats. Another pairt of the Spanish. missip1'l'haire, was to fomeht hostiIity against AI;gieFs. Withial1that the GoveraroelltofSpain bas td do atnome, wnat cau make them so busy abroad i'Itis OQJ!Wus, too, t.thillkwln~t shau1d induce.that Government tota&6'.aUtllÎs trouble agaillst astate, whose worst efforts of hosülity a fe.frigates wouldhe capable .10 parry. h caB, to commOll reasQna*l1oalculation, be due to no oth,el' cause than that of the cabinet being iOlithe hands of those· who, w~sh to ·see a na;tioll; c.apableof greaif'J e~ertitoDthuiSidJy employed,and wasti;mg a,v3y'rorces that mightrisef()/vivialry.SGumnch mo1'e i;nji\Jrious is" ft~l);dsbi;p thanenniity illipolitics, si{l(chi t·hena,eans recurted.:to, to,pres.~rvenatiQlu"l pol1tiieal asc~ndancy ~ AlthougbiSpail1 h.enot exactl'J in thestate to bée rUilted bJ; a,};rench faction" it is·eqt1alJy trae thata Frenchinteres.t IUl'ksin the c&binet.Amd how cantQcjlsemp}oy itselfT any wa] more consisten;d'y' to move advantàge" more:conduôveJy;to its ()wn views, thaFl insup'plying narcoties and rattlestOiwhat.it must eveF wish to: vetainin l~ading"str~ngs?. ~sto this naÛ'on" here, 1'angier is the'a~,lyport in the north~ and~ wiitl'»tbeeNception of Mogpdioror Soucca,. the onlypo;rt of' its" coasts nowopen. But i.t lIas, as IS well knO\fn~besidesthese,.Tetuan,Lal'ache, Salee',or.:fitobat, Santa Cruz otherwise Auguer, and tl~~Y~eBay Qf Woladja,b~t'WeenCapeGanti.ll alid Mozagan, thir;ty miIes:from the latten'place.

OBJECTOPr'VBE. llR:I'T.~H:MISSION.W't~n~~i'flnJJir:d;dibe'bD'ld a :ma4JiroFltbus,l)outtirng ,up :theavenues Îkp,Qs­JiiScseslto welfare, tograudeur"to happ~nessJ But hQW' r~~IYlaTe~\lman affairs any wheregoverned byreal interests ,1The present (British ;mission w:as forti6fld w:ith extensi,ve p()w~rs.of1âi~fion.lts râtion:aleitoowas. on a' veryrespeçtable scale, as will ap·'péal"'frôm;thedutline of instrudtiolls,given. 'l~hese:were,.to eX~mÜle.,asaccurately aspossibla into the ;capabm~ies andlTe;sourcesjof.tpe~ountry it visited,to ascertaiR wnatbeneficial commetcial relatippsmightbe adoptedbetween the two nations, to 'endeavour tO obtain;(\c.'Cess for Britaintoall the pdrts, and residence for a British consul at'1~~tuatl,;tG;wMch'placeconsiaerableiII)por~ocehas been always,;an­IneXfed. 'The .,·amplitudeand ;teuouror it14ese diplomaticinstruct!9J~Sevidently d,emonstrated filiat the;!British;;adnl,inistratiop.of the p~fi,p{lin questionwas, very differently fromwhat has 'been'.o;bserVablejQnother occasions, fully impressed with the importance derivaplefrowanintercourse here; a truth, indeed, too glaring tobe witbstood: apdthey in consequence extended, wisely in. this case, their view$ rar1>e.­yond the mere provisioning a fortress which they were fully inclin€!d tf)have left to its fate of war, wh:atever that might have been, during theerneTgency ; but whieh was too great a favourite with the people ofEnglandfo he renouoced, and too ablydefendedto be 108t. The'..~j~ciral objectof the'femainingpartof the life of the' gteat man Wjhowas then atthe head ofit, and continueil for severalyearsaftersotobe, WaS to prove,tnatas htsTortres5wa5 defensihle'againstall the powerof man, 50 it was also tnaintfi\inable in total' independenêe of the suppliesoflhiscountry of Mdroeco, and/lits port of 'tangier, about thedosure of wilich againsfhim Spain was now 80 anxious.Be this partof the question, however, as it may; cer,talnly, ifGibraltar is to remainan annexation toBritish dominion, the way to pay its expenses isby2L2

TRAVELS IN AJtRfCA:"making it ancilJRry to an Întere0l!lrSe lipGn anîxtended' $~alewilfi'flfi.A.frican nation,. Mpon which its infl:uénce iS6"bv:ious, and tne ,0%poW8Nthereof extensive. As t{), them~irl. o·bjeGse upori another,.a.more tender subject still ta the M ussulman,-the inva$ionot: his haremby the profane. A British suhject had kiUed, or dangerously wounded,a.. Moor a1: rfetuan,. and tbis was an, i'nexpuAgible offence.. It i3 to heohserved, as men bave their own notions of liberty, 50 tao.theyha;vetheir own ,notions o.f slavery.of'opinion mayexist.And. npon .both subjectsequal diversityPerhaps it may occur to. the.erroneous concep,.tions of sorne free-born men, that everYJî1lan .whom theycQnsider as in

OBJJWTIONS·;·TO A BRITISH RESIDENT. ~61IbeQctk(tr;$'.~Uca.tt(i;)Q,:d'S.liàbletosnch exemplifications of their superior$._~e.()rthing&as theymay choose to impress, him with. On theotherlla~d,if the slave is, as one may imagineto be now and then, the case,attached more to the mode ofhis· bondage that he bas been always \lsed~,thal} t~>thê thillg it~elf and for its own sake, he wiU be very apt tob~come itlldignantat thisllew light so ul1solicited.ly and forcibly ohl'ffititruded on bim, and win wield; his c11ains, Dot against bis oppressor's,, . \ !,.blllt his InSUltees head.- These people, too, may be barbarians. But itjoes Dot theDce follow tbat they must relish our barbarismeD1agistel~ia:lpower shou1

· TRAW'ELS. IN ;AFRICA.monials, with persons ofacknowledged'elevated,shlt;Ï~neIsewthe.re~tl~an'the latter are ·inclined te aecede to.Many instances ofthi$. kindihaveoccurred.Thus Mr. Park was advised notto offel' to sbake hands MT:.iththe Negro king (who is addressedbyhis own subjectswithtbe.a,ttriofthe Divinity and the heavenlyhost) from the splendourofwbosecol1ntenance eyes are averted, whose feet theground isnot perrnitt:edto touch). But itmaybe, perhaps,supposed that there are certainrtraitsabout the dharacter of a Moorish Sultan not exactly compatible :withan effort at any indecorous degree of enCl"Oaclllnent" and that therefore,in this instance at least, noincorrectnessofrthe kindcould occur. rl:hisis net the case. But as to theparticmlar subject of diplornacy, as weilasthis immediate one, there are certainbabit,s of thinking and speakingwhichmilitate strongly againstsuccess inthat procedurejand,whichmust he, at least, as prec1usive 'here aselsewhere;. which issa,Ylingenough ~.Butto the particular subject,negotiation:it be:hoves. n;s.toôbserve that this, h'ere as elsew:here, mayubedeft"ated iniÎts views,;;frolllthe apparently most feeble;. the most despised, J!leglected, and unsus"pected quarter, and that the'slightestprovocationmay trip up aIl itshopes of sucdess. At this court aIl make a pleaof power arid incH.nation, two matters of very problematicalcalculation here. WhateNerdebility may attend the efforts of service, those aimed in the otherdirection are never to be slighted. AlI whose offer~ are not embracedmay be setdown as enemies, and the numeration, will be found correctenough.Few orthose paid for it can besupposed toc have the intercstsofaIiens at heart. It would be incQmpatible with any fuIe applicableto human nature at large. todoso. And .fewerstill of those whomay be sincere, and have the inclination, possess the power, as indeed

is '5umie~enftl~r()bvi0USgula1tes his intercourse with his co~rtiers,mentioned.,alouefrom the manner inwhicl:ihis majesty f&!as has been heretoforeBut theofficious would-be agents who present themselves(the more respectable characters,aselsewhere,keep in the baek..ground)'must belooked,on in anothel' point of view; as leeenes put on by theirmastér to suck lhestranger, and disgorgetohim; (they may he corn:­pared, too, to their ow'nmosquitos, which always attack the newestcorner with the keenestappetite;) to them is left only the little whichtheycan absorbin t'f'ansüu~There isa homely proverb in our langtUlge,however, whichsays,"Itisa bad cook who cannot lick herownfing~ts."Theydo contrive certainly, wherever they can laya finger,that itshould not be drawn ba~kunfrtlct:uously to themselves.AndfOl1thosewho meddlein eve-ry thing"the ~leanings at the end of theyear mustamount to sornewhat. The inculipations of meannes~otcon..duct, so frequ.entlyand heavily bestowed on; personS h.ere, are not,aitar aH, matter of suchdeep blame to· them, even if founcled, generàBJr,in point ofnumbers,whiclu theyare bY'no means allegedto be:'{f.Bdlitical circumstancés cbaracterize.a community..the creation of tliem.The moral maniaAlcaid Judar, our friend, and a man very well' entitled to that epithetôfworth hewas,being the commandant 0f the Sultan's artillery,ok Desti~ution ofliteraturc tends to uns~ttle Mohommedan politics. A man here is a fanatic ora llullity. The bad scale of education limits the expansion of the mind in onc sex, and the communityIosesby thedebasc1l1ent of tIreother. Physical causes wilIever preserve the superiol'ity ofmankindover the rest of theirbrethren to the temperate cll~ates. 80 much moral result is thrownin to the common benefit by thein6uence ofwomen in society, an advantage hardJy to be hoped for'wheretheylose their personal attractions before theil' moral powers can cometo matul'ity, wherecthey,: must bedecrepid'before they are wise, that the citizen of the world c.an hardly hope to specu...laté upon an equation ofsocial happiness throughout all mankind. There must, after all, be gradations;.li better and aworse state.

264must be supposed to have stoodhigh in his conndef.\ce.A'lld thei;sitûationhe was placed in, as protector andconductor of the British 'eth...hassy, indicates as much, and may weIl be supposed to have beenconferred for the purpose of bestowing a bonus on a favonrite.Bu.tas the sâme object strikes the faculties of differentpersons,eachone hlhisown way, sorne were inclined to ascribe his bfJn!wmmie, his zeaJ, hisattention, and activity, togeneral pbiJanthropy; to a sense of thenatural fitness of things; to pure disinterested IO'feandaffettio.n to theBritish nation, which he never saw;-·to lany tlüng, in short, except tawishto put a nloderate sum of cash illto his own pocket, in remunel'atioIJ.for a considerable appropriation of time and trouhlein attendançeupon the puhlic service.Great disappointment wasconseqnently incurredin important quarters, when any appearance indicated· the0btrusionof this collateral cause of action into his conduct.He was avery good -dispositioned man, spoke Spanish fluently, and; in.confor~rnity with the cusfoms of ancient oriental desc.ent,~was sOlÏle~hatbyperboUcalin his compliments, which, however, to British eats; unusèdto makeaIIO\,:ance in this article, sounded lItote like matter offaet thanthe strain was intended to verify.Some doubt was in consequenceentertained, if any thing in the way of the tender of a present wouldnot either overwhelm his feelings, or rouse his in,dignation.But atlength resolution was plucked up, and it was determined, coute qU,ecoute, that the experiment should be trjed.Due care was taken, howerer,that it should not he of a very oppressive nature-two hûndreddollars. The poor Alcaid's feeJings were thrown into astàte of agitâtion,desperate indeed upon the occasion, but bya cause very differen.tfrom tllat surmised.He declared with the most violentemotion,onseeing his tendered treasute, that he would immediately hurryof'wifhit to bis lord and master, lay it at his feet, and sunlmon:hiswitnf]5s.es

265d~!yf~;p."~:it'_t;tHitsswas411;hehâdreeei.ved.,The pdOT man '\Vas in fact' '.. " ". .. ...•.., ".. .. . .. " '. . .. '~r€uJtllaJ;, wnenhehad tmderg

~Qungl'D~rchant of LîJ.GeJ.':P?olah:e,d$ menÛD;ted'i who Qam~ fi",Q'~ ltbf\~with Alcaîd .a()az,~~r, (the ~ngli.s).l renegade Thoma,s M]er:s,} ·ha,job;tained the I~ave 9f ·the S~l~.n to ~X:'ffill;ls.elf at Salçe ;,(~th~ ]ï'n;n~.~~f,e a ~9n!'tul-11ere,,~. it Qb~~Ivecl;)~andin. ~onseqp~n,c~ ,t(:lOk, lNb9;\JsyaR-d: ]!UJ;'c;.~iJ.: hiS;goPd~ (th~ cOJ;U,.~er(;iflL~pte)'lpri;se. of L~VerpO(ll.i",~eH kIJowq: this. YQung man WijS ij f1.wù?:r):., Jïleha

, il.~~.*.dfIfISM••;t$~· f··But)tb'iM;ÔÜ'PtG(fft@iêbàtJt~lâfJ~~ftcest. .~f'"iibffterwtJ;rds, jjfd~liUll~ wi~h gb~érBm.en(.A rè~)Jeeta.M!e mèrC'l1~hrt\' M@godor 'lloàartook'{@rtR6 ipre:sent' iStlttaia,~tia fa!tthè(}êsite bf't\re"'àt''tert aiColltrltct. for bl!littêlFY,vg;l!ln:.d3tri8,~èS fl'~Êtig1a:n'dt 'àt ithir'ty"otJ.!J.tds"·s~di1J:\.gieàc~i W~thêyweré aelivereô,themonarchtefUgètlft~,méîtft,""""ha:vi1îg.{obta.t~d~'·l\~r,'hêsaid t ;tlrèt}t>tabte inifurma~tdn··tiha.\". :they Wël~ to he had in oûfisl8,nd for Uîè sumof rotlr.poqriqst.~n·~hil­.Iings f€acb.. Tbemerchant lost tbe surf'lttsfand his InajestyPsDoW. T~...\dtl~ed,ft> ready:.money daalings. Such are thé vexations to,~hich com­4G6t'~e'istiable tler~ j thtttilf'st step tothe rectificatioa wh~r'eofiS t tbatsnC'UIC1 he khdwri. It il; pr6Hahle that the l'eàôiest access to com­.~~~rA·la.lf i1J·~~f~''f.sewQu~.~Qe.to,tll~k~tbeqe.spot factof,:,generaL to his~û~eets, ·~fttt letlîfMki~b'if't!t~swêêîs0f il. Instead Oritittigûés 1bribes, ~adlUGral 'de.clf1.Il.l~~io:Qs t~ belaughed ,at for,~if somenegPtiat(}lSpessesseà of a; litt1e' share ofacquaintallce with thatruë pl'ihêipi~s ofnational intercourse, with somedegreeof expedence in.the true springs'lfhumanaction, '8addivested 'of that national· ton de supériorité whictii;Îatural1y conjures up.the nend Aqtipathy on the opposite sid~,~9Uldfarina .s~a~elUoot f@unded on facts; câflculatioll· and prin~iple, it itl,hât1~'yto.becont'eived that judgeJllèfif so acute as tbat which aow'l'lllel'".11~~'jtsh()qld.in.ot concur.. ;Atileastth.eexperiment wouId, fbroncè,Ijé· \'ëtyweU .w~rth tryit)g. BU~f()r thesepurposes it is necessary.that. instructioi~lll~~lQuld be trausluittedfromtloIPe ;andthe.diversity of'ifupressl9tlwhlôhtèÏgns 'tiFèrès6 gen.~rally .diffused t 1S too obvions ~Q.presel1tanytgtround. ·oJliO:Jl~(a.li,.li'as..beeu: ~ince substantiated.)An en­Jârgedscaleô'fproicedtrtê,wô'ulidfprecblt1e the bad effects of Sllcn rasha.nd deteriorating specüIationsas .thoseofthe young Liverpool factor,,,""hitéhl:ôl!ll'dotfi'ly'have taken place>unde,r the' profoundest ignoranèé,(wl~icn, think otherw,isc whomay,prevails equally to the present ho.q.r)2M2

of tllest~te o(thisco'Untr,y. lJnQ~r the ~llgg~Jt~dlu:ral'lgemeat.• 'i;.»;~perativedetails of commerce would not, 'dcvolve int(.>Jhe hands dfMoo••TIJe Sultan woqld cOlJsign th~m toagents%oftbe·Jewisp.natibn, the,...­cQliar situation of wl1Ïch, here, islooimp.ortant.in a Ulereà;ntile point.•view to .. be passed over in a cursorymanner.... . ~ . .But, .f()rt.h~.. "resent.,get, through the subjecto( trade-,a JeW.observ.a.tions .yetoffer them...c"On tbis subject,for various usefui information, and forlhe prospects of an inviting naturecwhich this country offers,. see:Sal1gIlier,. who was wrecked 'i~the latituâ.. 9f 24°.,in'this· v~year, the date of these nowrela,ted occurrences and obserratie'~' "••.. lf~· .. ,v~~Js.i~ ar4âfessedt?;~French Government, by whiel1, wllether acted on or not, ail communicà.tion~ on national subie*wer~ cougeniatly acli:nowledgeâ,; .. and tiisinterested ae~vity, the- ré~uIt of energetiu mloo' andp.triotie impulse,wasneverchiUed br thecold insultof a,negatory reçeptioll. Het.oo r~commenq.the pelletrating ititothe interior of Africa by Morocco (there is a striking coincidence. upon thi.8ubject amongst such as bave thougnt upou it,· aad' the point nas not been invalidatéd br themiif;.fortune of the regretted Mr. RoeJltgen). Sa1.lgJJi.ergi~(ts ap enull)eratj(1tl of artÏ.c~~fort~"fri~trade, of àbout a hundred, to whicn additIon' éouldhe made from Ëngl~nd. He suggests th~tÀrowi~g into tne Sultan"s nands by post. tfade.·(die .duty ., beiiig dne";twelfth} thé .a.:fticles nô\\rconveyedby caravan~. He considi'fs. the tFiJ,dein. gen(1~a1. in .various .poi~~ of view.l;Iespettksqfb. ','," , ,tbat to Tombuctoo, and of the unseen traffic,-th~t without an int~rvie~~~o verr~n~i:~~in;R~:~~ciple and practice, and extant here ro tfl~' ptesent day. He' gives very' usèful instruetfolls for ;..8tr~ger; ~md .~heaIl(lient artÏ.

8'efveS"~$}i'tllê}affi.~le~of it-nportforagêrieral~and ofc'ourseneedy Mohomtnedanpopulation,itmay he supposed', could beeasily reckonedup.l'et the Moofs are not inconsiderable consumers, as will'he hereafterseéà. 'rhepopulation is great" and every fatnily must have, of a few articlés,a:tleastenè cath, Everyindividual is,similarly circu'mstanced in regardlohis'owÎl personalwants.Among thé upper C1asses,the cdn..sUQlptiou of the harem cannot,he tritling; and in tbe MoorJshcostgmeagooddeal ofstuffis·used,. these" people heing obÎiged to dress' fortwoseasons, as will be Iloticed in ifs place: for the c1irnate i8' such, asrehde~s thesedefencesoF. pOOl" human natUre imperatively neéessary~;Hof.18 ltteq.!uisite; a'Siu many other cases, here to show rnankind. theirwÎJlnts; inQrd~\j' thà!tt they shoulà,be felt.,1'hewholewinter, inland, màyhejûstly termedtsévere:. a114; â \v~st traçtot'habital>le co~ntry touçbtl$upon tlJesall\{j}atm.Qspl'heriiiC';ZUfltl wi·th Nova!Zembla.contempJates· thi8 wonderfulêoun:try~The more onethe more is 'the mind stricken byits p~€Jllit1't~~ti'es, hs analogies, its eoo:tr,as'ts ! But a time will come fors'ual1refieeti'@·J:lS •. :Hardwar,

·tié Dutch, "'3.Rd .a'~totbeMl;trsemôiS>wbi·le :theyœultl rèle1î!tt:~j.A1i. ~he artielesa.:lJoveérlûm.eraJted are'very~fe!wof ithe~'of R1ne~~~ecœtly description in tbefirst j instatree,tl:tc ,wôrst thatcmddiiâ.ppèh~';tle~plunder .df a warehonse,shauldthé oountry mthâppily :reJapse'int~:·anarchy,woulà ,not he ,ofrwinouscbnsàquei:1ce. It hasbeëarepeâtedfy'obsenved how fond the MOQrs are of. tea; dear as'itis, thet win; '~.fij'the Jength ofpaying for itrather'tbaunôtha;veit..IDhéy have a proveth,u Glveu ivinegaris sweeter tb'an:bôrtght~bje{'w"..~llbis:C3~~;itltavowalreminds us ofSwifes friena$;~hô,àshé'ôbsetlre~Gftkêm~!J'~vèd.winewhich cost t'hemnoth!Îng~'8(J,tliF0ughot1t,hUrIHinn~ltul'eisevery:\vherè .the sameat bottom·;itis afoné in nlôdes ihM we dJffeÎ~ .Anythingtha;tpé(sses under the nâme of tea here, sells {Gr' about fi gtl'ffteâa pound ofour money and· measure; !yt!t~ as eb§êrved~' pnteha$èt§ 1>'resenttbemselvesfCl' it. .1 mperàtÏ;~eas;1I1à!y 'c:l1JetWe'dtttYâf'tfiC'tipaVê'lJert.ô-keephîs Îee'twithin· the·traek :befoFe niin,sfrtttig' êk 11lâ't't5ê t -miTthe·othe.rhandthe seduetivehlandis:hmetds Oif'dig~es~Ion.;no:t;è\~e' rJteiSfJeeiQuse~tenuative éJuim ·:toiâi§re~fSha'flièe ,plèad'eH!in/!d'èfène'e"'ô;f! tl1i~t$oharacteristiepraeticê. rrheepÎstô)ary tra.:vedet, 'if' is'trti'e, isall6\vedsoope, from the' N.e'W'tO:lliarl system or attta·ction clown to a·glanderonsanecdote,andalitüni~tltauthor thol1ghet Mmsel,tetltitl:ed ta ,dr)gresslnpraiseofdigFession.But., disclahn~rigaU,ind.ulgênêêfotfflded()DttoJerationor example, theseinfractions up()flvià:fbriâl.ûnity clf a(~tion,Hme,and place, shall not be ô'btrucledwithoutâtl.apology:; âIld'Ïf)orderthatthe justification become not a crime ,greaterthah tbe original o'1fence,let oneplea:of merey serve for t'hem aH, p~,gt,ptèsent;atl!d,tocome.--.:.'Vhy sbould man havethis' t:toconquerable, thl~,tùiivet'sâf telishfor'lvba.t i5 useless, btft œmote f[Ql11att.ainment,. 'but tha.t ErQvidenee. În­~~4:ed th,at~n t~é: worldsllo,uld ,.~. o.lle~..;t9, m~,:; .. tlt~t tll~ .~b.l"lJmanrace shQuld live, not in independence of, butand

O'0;a~~'QfltaeW;o~ier;,i. t,iftiUS implâlltil.mg',m"t'1lal .. wântB R Toont"."b~~)~.t~utw'Ouldthis?pursuitofl umnecel'sary .gràtiicÇatil)Dlgo, w~~~~nté;)\t. fth~principal part of: thes~cl~~~~,s.ar~ r~gipi :a.liJ~liQ()d.()ulbt;.c9Dsyie'lflouS: ,atlher0uts> tf) their lawS';:'~t;thertl;;at;et() ~~ .·(ù"tll:cJ .amongst.tQ6U1 i .(oft~nindeed; .'. ~t ..,mqst howeve"bf.l·. cOl)lf•.~~d".~~iJlg.to::E1ilrQpeatJ.;sf;1d:uè'tton,)b()~~'l?îv:a'1liS,' ,w hO,l~j~Y'~ëO~:i U;,de,epi p;O~ati~ns,:witll :~i &cyt.bi~n:; i )vll@sh~w tb~~ tije' chi!di'eni~rHam,in1p9Î:At ..; Qf'~o()d,. pi~p()si!ig~'f,\re pyJ}~,im'~~ns; 'b.ehi~4' tQei~'''aph€tial'tlki~dre.d: 1;jn.q eY;Q,tiQnto:th~itJa!.ber'Js sciqQe~" a~ it& pFaèt~ca,l i~p pli ~â..ti~..n.·"SQmc.-.a'(~tobeJUet:witq; ,vhpwJUHutry ontotheha:I!PY st,ate Ot,- . . -'. .. ~.,.' .. . - '. " .'in~o~oat~()nas,{~~t,a.s they ca~, apal'tandsechlded.ftom al~socialin-..t~.·t~tion tbaj,mÎgbt. int~rfere witbQ[, nlPles~ their satisf{\e~i~n '~n,the''\o.'" ,.-,

process; witI then sleep ,thcmselve6sober" and beready to'e.om;~e)l~again-"deciesrepetit6placebit/; With $uch characters as these.'it,.ishardlynecessary tG add, allt.his ,is understood to :be at the eKpenseofothers. They have secrets toofor the reco~ry of .las:t sobr:ie,ty,-re(\Q"yeredonly .tQ he lostagain,-that would ooJ:lOur the jngeJ'lu~tyànd..eKp~.­rien.ceof an Epicureanof the Northern ·la'titud.es. Sti1Lhere attaches.as .in Spaill generally, a .some~h~t ,of.disgrac~ul t.o the idea,ofintoK.Ïca...tion,-probablyone inherent in Nature whileull;pe~erted;bye~amp1eand habit whicbcan ,~ak.e ,3 pr~!de of a disg.tia.ce.~tll~ ".Jlalç,~di.e.S$....~fthe man f" alld what ,mustit·be i'fexhibited as ofoid in 'view ofhis cPiJ..drenJ Invinovltritas. The.tiger or the JUonkey then breaks biscbainorslips his collar:.~Butnow to revert to diplomacy, andsomewllat..ofpolitical matters. It is conv,enient probablyto be,known., tbat a3~n:"voy here is Hable to very ,aw~ward,cqnsequence~, Jtom the systelll.o"tInterpretation, of which, he its ei'ects or defects, whatthey,msy, .he!i$ ohliged toavailhimself~ithout re,ource. Thisotice isusuaUYRer.,;rotmedbya Jew; and \vhen thestate ofthat;;fleoplehe:~eis9Qusidered,.it will readily be jud1l:ed now little. thfY are cOD;lpetent to. de1iver ameaning which they c()nsi

~his; géntlémlln~S lc(>trsulate, t'he Sulhin expelledthe British uut of his~omi'Ilions.In an interview Mr. Logie had with' the monàrch,'the latterwas told by him, totidem verbis, that hé had broken his word; to"vhich his'maj.èsty is 'feported to have'coolly replied,that·had he keptevery promise'he had evermade, he' should not have been then Sultan."·But the result is observable. .fJ!heprocedurewas done at the instiga­,tion of, and as sllpposed by bribèry frdm; the court ofJ.\tXadrid.TheStitish consul, heing of an open 'generoùs disposition, had gained great'POpularity'among the'natives, and more especially with the Negro'army. The Sultan th81'efo1'e, availing himself of this, affected to believe1;h~~Jhewas, :folùtm~ing an insurrection, as was suggestedto him to be{II',,,,,:>'''''•. 'l~o.thosewhlohavefelttheroughnessadherent to Modrish'Çompliments andjokes, it wiH .cneadilYJOccur that a premeditated insriUfpon1 such people iS'DP--cbild's':play, büt,«(H)'the contrary, rather rema,rkàblefor strength than delicacy of application.The Sultan sent hi.s.Black troops with orders, each man in file successively, ta pass by: theconsul, point his crooked dagger at, and spit in ,his face.This maj hecalled\ a hint to a man, àla Moresque, thathe is not altogether as weIlat court aS he ought towish to be. It certainly could ad!TIit of but oneinterprebation.But, by a raré 'instanceof. human forbearance, theseundcracted their parts in the.pantomime. For Mr.Logiehehaved,with înfinite .firinness. He told thern? fr9m his house,when theycame, that, ifit was for the purposè ofinsulting him, he.w0uIrldie ratherthan submit to it. The resùItof this il; worthy of notice; as it showswhat this people lllay be, and indeed actually'llhey repliéd, thatthey were truly sent ;fof" that purpose, but that he might heassurèd heshould sùstainas little wrong from them aspossihle.mancameou]y to the apartment door, drew his ~agger,through fhe motions of offence or~ered.2NAccordingJy,and thenThis was but one of the many

instances 'Of Hl treatmentwhtieh this gen'tliemttDre~ived',.andaeted _,.,der with a fir.mness highly co·tulùc;:ive toimpress the people beTe wit.respect for the natÏ'oD which sent him. Bot as to tm;e situàtion in,whicia stranger,especiall:yone in o:flioi:a} ltibs,atron, mayh>e'plàced,and DOWhema, get iuto tmat place, sapposing too', ma matter oow impromMy,a rationale in aU thingg., an acctœrate interpteter, and ooeBot liable·tointimidation, must he a: very destrablea'lkicw]s curirel1eJe :andi wLl'ereissoch a one to h>e obtaillcd? Not in tme coun·trY; eertamlt'... for tkis.court, few win be round s{} tJtoptaiB aS' tocount ttpondi1'irrterestedservices.. Let it not he hoped, "eithcF"todefeat Afil'Îcani acumeni bycircllmvention~But, he a people wbat tbey ma.y in tmeir dealings."\Vith others, :€air dealing in retorn is the soun get, hy whi(iim,. they are :ted, aperQ1'ancntannual stillend wouM he the be&t and e~apest way of making friendsin this country, liable eVel~ to revision in the object of it. At present,we Europeansare qot d:ornestie animaIs fosteFed fOl, the eggs wc are expectedto lay, Dut birds of passage to he shot filying ifattained at aH,and o:pen game for everysportsman.. In conseq;uence of his majesty'sIDlseonduct with legard to.1Ur. Logie, and intrigues with Spain, whiJehe thouglltt England embaFrassed, the Sultan was, at the period nOl"treated of, very apprehensive that the la Uer pOiwer, nnw thatfler handswete disengaged,. ,vo,oM pour hér thnuders n,pon him: and persons weIl_pp.lIisèd :of the secret springs ofaetion,and feelings, within the palacewal1s, (which persons., it is to h>eobserved, are very littlesought 'f(;'i!for adequate!y apptecia.teâ~)sai

gDage"j.st~titbis\œ~:t>nt;mjgh\thav~ b~d ·th.~m~st beueticia} etfect.Btllt dl,e instant it was declafed to·tbeicra~ty despot,tbat Ina prinlination.Was ,add\;loedagainst bi,mby GlfeatBritain, he instantaneousJ,f resumedbis composurcand illiS1Ulii potio,. 'Jfhedema.nd of the British GQvernœcnitwas,.s;pee.ificaUy,t~be'putiOtl·t:he~tfmef()o.ting as heret.ofotte. ;Doubleiad~antagès,if tlley ··,h.ad. Jnow~in i$8itSte

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.certainly: answer, if possible, on the pointsreqnired,"is during thig;time most studiously evaded, until the duration appoinledby inflexib)e·etiquette for the stay of the. embassy, thre'e au

COUBTI:.y PREJUDICES. 217cosst:rued, liherallyand notliterally,) andwhichpromissory note hetook care to present, in due time and place, for payment.From thehPf,l:or and surprise tàeappearance of thisdocument excited, the tiri.gate ought to àa,r e, bornetàe name of:Medusa.~ome o~'éth~et~q\l;ette~ of hismajesty)s court are rather whimsical ;th~I'~:fore, perha,ps, 111e morenece~saFY tobekno:wn. The negativepa,rticle no, in plain tenDs, must never be used. ltmust be put in sOlnecircuitous phraseology.,Bl4clc is a term in the same uncourt1y predi..cament. if~ve np..lst be expressed four and one, which wouId appear tovolg~r Cl;llc;\illators tOi;~mount ,to much the same thing. A very ancientradtlga,l i4t.:;Çt is, ,hoW~yer, traceable·here. An imprecation is su pposed toinlt;.~nd weiperceiNe,.though they knowit not, here, thebe çl'DYltjly~dmystic,sYlllboliç~l,,'ll.ldypJJYlSicalallne~atioJo,oif;ideasof power and forceto thehand, thtjliremblem. ;']:1he oHl1ef prejudices are probably,equalJy{leeply seated.used nor alluded to.n~~ely ~t~rted]3utasto the dre,ad,t;ul,word deatll, itmust neither beAn,d if in conversation any s\l;bject is unfortu.whiph Wight. inc}i;rectly lead towards it, the turning the'discourse in adelic;at() WaY" ,an·cl relieving the company tirom its embarrassment,is, considered the very summÏit of good.· breeding and refine';'m()llt~an~ the tact oti thepersoll'who~a~ ..thus had the discretwn t()turn~~YaYJh~ boIt, .is the the~~ of e~pa,.ti~..tipn. This brings tomindthecqnrt!y d~viue pf OUf. own .cpuntry,l..wboknew the rulesof goodbreeding .tooperfectl,y.to intrrd uc~ tht( ... w..ord .. l~elt befo~tea. PQlitecon.grygation. It is remark;e~l;j thft~ ~v()rfc4s~qm of 9:riental des.cent isopposit,e. ;t() what is. Europeall; andit may beAaken as atruth: as forinstance in the case of a .lJeckou to .aperson to come, the Europeanturns his .band upwards towards hi~ fa,.p(), ,the; Oricnta,.l downwards towardshis feet; and this contrariety appears in divers points.Sorne,

~78hoW(tver, have naturaUyrernained in Spain beyond the lime {jf 'thepeople who brought them there.Charity is Partofa Mussulman's pre~ribetidtlty; and itis,oo doabt,generally most conscientioUislyand wiUicng1yperformed. Butmod:e isin many cases of lite asimport~nt as matter: andthat observed. here inthe present instance, by the heâdcofth,e Stâte, isas foUo,ws :-An entertainment,atthe due pedodannualIy, islaid oUitin an openarea of the.palace, to whicha numerouscomPany ·ofsuchperable obje.ction t@ elltln,rimg ,rotl!,bewl'tes:,"~e'iJslîdlJ;Ceeêl to cOtne.'l'he m{J;~t'1'és rJ,'hotel anât_r assistanlsaife; as badges of office and instrurnentsof arrangement, provided with,IÎ"Ot absolutely white wands,hut ponderous white stavesof sorne six feet length.Witnthese,'WeI! employed, the company, is withoutmuch further persuasion orceremonyillduoed tntaiketheir places, and wÎtthout 'aUo'\ving the meats10 cool bY':(:Hueql!JisÎ'tedelayofarra,ftgement; and,after ameai of notmuch protraotion QI' colll@:\iiftiiul.În_coursetceremony ord~dpiIi:llle; (for it !\V',il;l 'i'OOâf twttJ to dépàrt, JikeMalcvlm and r).$J.'J.aldG'ain, '«Jlot /OVer Ieave-tâking, but postingthence \~i'ha~l tthe s,peelé! tihey Iflay."-Butfhe'injuJ.'Jctions cif charityandhospitalityarecom'P~i:ed with (who can derry ?}in. as due fonnas we see instanced .Dearer KOIDe. Indicative of cthesame principle,t'Wo dishesofcnscusoo, "/royal fare, Iwarrantl" follow,bofJ.'Je Ôl1 men'sheads, hi,s m8Jesty iDhis excursions. 1'hese ragouts he sen~s or:invitesto, accordicng as hejudgesproper ta confer the honour; to deèlinewhioh wouid àê itlhe height of indecorum, howeverincorrvenient itmight be, at the moment, tohave repletion inflicted. But to say thetrutb, the.stomachs of his majesty's courtiers are rarely indisposed toaccoD1mod~t!iQn.'.\

(~~~~~~ ,

Amongst other visitants to the embassy, at leisure hours, was a.juggler.,He had live serpents in a leatbern budget: thase ne had madedocile, aNd when e:niar~ed they meandered about the ftpor, keeping a.harmonie action of cadence to the !)()und of his tabor and pipe.Andhe;;l.lso bore upOQ bis hare shaven head sCQrpiorlsnestled nnder his turbal),wbien ran' in and O\1t 81t tbe of command;. and he flourished!lis CUJ>S and halls widi.. as mnch dexteri.ty as is seau in E\RoTope. His serpents were 01 varions descriptj;ons; sorne 8'Ueh,. indeed,as have haffled aIl s quant inquiry. Prohably they courd he found,were the special ·es giveu; in the cata}ogue of t\lose Libyanreptiles trans d to 1115 hy Lu AlI that could he done on theoccaSIOn, ID, wa:,yof ascertaiument, alDOunted only to- prove thatthey were lllOne of the deaf sPeCiel): for they did in goodsoothlisten t(} t ce of th lneJ, although the wi&dom of biscbarming was not powerful e00ugh to toach dll)l. 1 IOOft~1 eallS.. Certainlythe manner in whi'Ch these anima1& oo-gan& M'a- aftècted by. harmonie'sounds is very cUllious..Su.eh as· these ungracious reptiles appeared anattempt isnlaoo· tor~pl'esent, g.eneran~, a'8 s~etcbed at the' moment..Sketches of any deselliption must he made in t'bis country, mr reasonsh ' he gi.ven,. as dogs a,re said; .Nile, running. Qfcannot he- as minute as oogllt in physiology. Theserpen: ers, who ar(t somewluît from thejugglers, ahboughthe two essig.Ds are by: no· meoos,. as· is hefe seen, incompatible, exbibitin streets to a ci-rcle ofspect a leathernbudget, as ·before menti()ned~ se\len or eigl ls, whichwrithe around, whilst their master se0lU'Sdiscourse which aflords entertaillment,. appafegood fortune to understand it.lem .a kind of, to such as have theAt intervals, the man plays and soundsou a SUlan flageolet, to which he makes motions of his b9dy as if in-

~80 TRAVELs IN AFR1CA:tended to imitate dancing.Part ofwhaf; hedid was evidéIjtly'tô 1rritatethe reptiIe;whichdarted and bit ai himwith the gI'ea~eS'tf,'ury,whilst he handled and threw them about#-itlFperfect unconcern.of these animaIs was truJY i tll3ilïgnity pers6nifiêd.OneIt would be hardIypossible for the ablest pèneil to'p'rtt intothe worst of human, or diâbolicalphysiognomies, malignityexceedillg that which 18 the expressIonof this outcast of creation.A'Jaint attempt lS ma:deatit in the plate.This retroverted and scowlihgspècimen élà'ims\f;hename, for it keeps neatly that ptopprtiQn of the Iength6f the bdâyereet.1t has a :véiry stnaUI'I:oportionatedicativeiof poisol),)adegreeI11ustensue. Tt· ~$Jgreât proportion·· bf:

( \J0;{/1f (6d;//{t1'./ /

AN EXTtt~Oll.DINARYS.ECTOB ENTHUSIA81'S. ~81having CnoT11l0USers cdiled round tlleîr arms, necks, and bodies.'rhejr are denomimÙèd;ài~tèftheiF fdurlderAyssa, a Scythie term, honol'ific,and in the stmse of saà.ttî;ot~ord.say that their founder en-Gowed them with power over aH ven s .animaIs. They certain!Jhave command of them. With kind of wit, expressed by abroad unmeaning sta.re, they thrust the animal, which seems stupified,in the faces ofsuch as are inadvertentenongh to admit their approach.They bear a strange appearance; witÎl thecll' long, meagre, naked Embs,fatuitous countenances, and .haU:"a,:,dozen of thesc animaIs of largeSIze twining and hanging around them...IIiIEliè€l

TRAVELS IN APRIüA.they seem to he originally indigenous, from the best information now tobe obtained of these countries, that of the poets.For although thesepersonages may shelter themseIves. underlthe privilege of " Quis vatès.ad vera vocat ?"he had, so far as it goes.still it is the ruIe of evidence to take the best that canAnd until historians, with more pretension,ccease to be poetieal, thereseems no reason· why poets should not beadmitted historieal.:Prpll1 every local and moral circumstance, they:re the people of whom (Psylli-Shellu?»)t is said" . • . . .• immunes mixti serpentibus eS$etlt.• . .• • • a srevo serpentum innoxi l1 morsu,A[armaridœ Psylli: par lîngua potentibus hel'bis.. . .• veI cantu cessante potest expurgat cantu .... . .. lttsit serpentilms infans l)~stis excàntata perit:'This is tolerably descriptive of the "Gens unica terris," the Nasamones:or serpent-worshi ppers (note the aceounts of the fàne of the Libyal1'Ammon). Nass, in Punie, signifies a serpent. These Marmaridœ werea widely-diffused nation, wide as their own plains eould adillit,spirit of dissertation wishtoJoUow, them.. '.l'he' radicals of names here'present themselves to thé.!Uea.been already mentîoned'*'.'Tu Maroc on the Nforbeya river has,'" Digression, discussion, and dissertation are'ground which the tFaveller's foot is forbidden totread on. As he is hound to adflere to his text, the Hne of demarcation may be, perhaps, preservedaccording to the due laws of wat, when these matters are; cireumscJ;ibed in ,a note. Alittleroam­, ing may be allowed, as peoplê cannot.be said to \\Tander whilsp the.y keep within limits. Thus"then, in the native pronuncilltion of the present day, the word issounded Marogsh-r-signifying(the of old) Mâuritania, thâtèountrys(i)ju$tly celebratedbythe ancients for its fertility.~, Ubere vix glebre supeiat cessantibusl;\ustfiS,,"Quum medium nubes Boreâ cogente sub axemEffusis magnum Libyre tulit imbdbu~··annuln."It isimpossible to describe the soWalld climate llloré>prècisely. Ifow 'êorisummate.Wl1s tfte~l:lôw''';lcdgc of the aI1éients 1 How"moqetn investigation lags behind them !" fu~ther ~'V~4!t'~titlle· itself". ,.. . : ".' :. '.

,THE SUfliTAN S. PAliAOE ANi> IT~ GARDENS. ~83By the Sultan's particular invitation, the British gentlemen weretaken outto see the palace and its gardens; the jdea of which wasdoubly gratifying, as licensing the hope ofobtaining matter of observationexternally,\ina;dditiop. to the interestbotanical objects, collectedallunder a ready inspection, in such a climate and situation, mustexcite. But court intrigues will descend to the lowest minutiœ, whenthe purpose is to defeat wb~t is .wèll intendéd; and thùs it happened inthe present case.For, by a happy arra,ngement, it was most successfullycontrived that nothing but white walls and yellow sands shouldbe seen.Other occasions offered, whereby it was ascertained that thein ail these matters of more serious obse,rvation !-..-Now, however, to proceed to our resource il!the poets,-and first taking die dominion. of Jarbas we Jind" .••• Gretulreurbes, genus insuperabile hello,•••• NUlpidre infrreni ......Iatè·furentesBarcrei . .. . . '.' . . • . . . . . . • . . . .. . . .'. . ;. .Massyli equites," &c.lIerethe observationmay he admitted, that the elephantëhunting of Gretulip. may he considered as. indicatory of morerecent or scanty population; for.both what wesee and judge tell us, that theseanimaIs, wherever found, were the first objects of the chase. The horse was subjugated ail overtheworld, and availedof for the chase before the use of the bridlewas discovered. This the ancientmonumentsof India proye to us. But. how correctly descriptive, how precisely choseIl, areaIl thepoet'sepithets ! Every word conveys the distillguishillg ch.aracteristic; geographicaI relationsarehardly to he regretted, where such accuracy of uloraI supplie~ the place. Thus Of Juba'g~m:inion :" •••••••••• Non fusior ulliTerra fuit"do~in~,quasûnt longissim~ regnaCardine. ah Occiduo vicinus.Gadibus AtlasTe~inat; a~edio~~nfinis Syrtibus Ammon.At qua lata jacetvasti plaga fervida regniDistinetôcéatittrtt;Z'ôtireque HtistacMentis,SufficiuntIiPa:~o,; Poptllitôtêastra sequuntnr;Al1tololéS; Nl1midœql1evagi:, '. sé'mperque patatusIncultoGretulus equo,tumconêolor IndoMaurus, inops' NAsAMON,mixtiGARAMANTE ,perusto,Marmaridmvolucres, '. requaturusque sagittasMedotum tremulumcum torsit; missile MAZAX;Et gens qum nudo residens Massylia dorso202

~84 l'RAVELS IN AFRICA.gardens aU around the palace in its outskirts are of the descriptionl1eretofore given; irregular orchards, .as we may term them, containillg'every variety of fruit-tree the dimate admitsof, underthe shade ofwhich grow in profusion 'leguminous plants, by the sole âid: of wate~most, abundantlysupplied.Theil' dimensions were usaaHy somewhatconformable to that allotted to the European party as before meliF..tioned; that is to say, about two acres.'.{'his, to be sure,may soundvery mesquin to a modernembeHisrher, who will lookformorescopc tobis capabilities. But it shoald be recollected tl51iatthe garciens,of Al·,0ra.léviBeeliitfrenomm nesciavirga,Et solitus vacuis erraremapalibus ArerVenator, ferrique simul fiducia non estVestibus iratoslaxisoperare leones;'We find radical characteristics, and radical n/uries, local and·persona.I,wherever we jnvestigate~Swift endeavoured to prove aIl ancient language derived l'tom the English, but has not convincedtbe world of the authenticity of his'deductionll. Our classic wdtersderive aIl .language fromGreek and Latin, and obtain the fiat ofmlirikirid totheir diètum. Aeeordingly Morocco is tltfts,named from the dark colourofits natiVes,'lIèettusê1!flêreis a wor

GARDENS SIMI.iLAR TO 'Ti8,OSE OF ALCINOUS.~S{)cinous, wbich werethe wonder of the world, which have been sung assuch by the greatest ofpoets, andwhich are (with sorne plausibility) sup.posed to have belonged to the wisest ofmen, (a hint gond use lllight bemade of in the present day,) iucluded but a double of this area,,....,...fOl1racres,-·for walks, rides, driv,es, produce,lawns, and plantations! IdeasPlay expand,butdiscretion is a very unelastic substance, and here inMorocco they seem to have attended 'rigidl;y to precedent and pre.scription.It is wonderful how precise is the coincidence of everyfeature of one of these situations of pleasure and retreat, with the descriptionsofsuch remote antiquity.A garden here could not be morecirçUJllstantiaUy, morepicturesquely described than in the very wordsoftPeimmortalÇ:reek. The waterwhicb makesall fiourish, verdantandproductive" issuppliedby means perfectly conformable with thoseadopted, as seen in thèir ruins, byancient Carthage. It is in Europeonly that manners and ideas change.The evening was squaUy, widl heavy ,douds obscuring the sky ;~prinklingsof raju feU, and volumes of dust rose,. as the street8, orrather perhaps wastes, of the city were crossed, on this occasion, inSC

286 TRAV:GLS IN AFR l f'A.in upon the heels of the J ew keeper, within the inclosure :immeqia:telywhereon the gates were closed'on those within, to the great diversion ofthe spectators, as was vociferously comffiunicated fmm without. Thesovereign quadruped treated his "is1tors with a total negleet" whichthey most heartily fOl'gave. But it was ,by no means thus with his royalconsort, who seemed to have a good deal of the curiosity of her sexabout 11er, and honoured them with a marked notice somewhat affinitiveto what the French mean by the term fixer, whicli woùld havebeen ,most cheerfully dispensed with, seeming indeed, very much inc1inedto cultivate closer acquaintance. :Fortunately for one side,however, the parties separated without further intercourse; or, in otherwords, the strangers, having sufficiently amused their friends withoutdOOTS,were permitted to conclude a visit, the actual duration ofwhichcould not probably be very precisely measured by the series of mentalsensation sor ideas, ('vell by IVlr. Lockchimself had he been here inperson. SomewiJI say, the keeper being there was a sufficient securityfor aU the l'est; but those wh~ know athow low avaluê Je,v"stleMl lSrated in this country, less than tbat ofthe horse-carrion he bore ih hishand, will never allow this for a cl'iterion or guarantee. "Vhen this mang~ve the animaIs their portion, each of which seemed a few poundswejght, the male lion, an animal of prodigious bulk of bone, and aged,became playful in' his own way, throwing himself on his side on theground with a concussion, and tumbling the flesh over with his .paws 'with a mixture of laziness and sport. The lioness allowed her portionto be laid before her, sitting prostrate, and never taking theleastnotice of it,. or of him who presented il to her.This menàgerie opens into a large area containing two ponds, hadtlley water in them, oblong parallelograms, to which the tenu c~llalmight he applied. Erery part,-waUs, area', above and bel~w.\1orizeutal

MûROCCO--'l"fS POPULATION AND AltEA. 287and pètperidicl~lat,-wasincrusted withsmall richly.painted tiles, green,white, and black, in very characteristic patterns-the manufactures ofJ.\tI,equinez and Fez. The whole appearance of the place is most melancholy.,This palace is, as far as can be judged, a vast tract, containingthusinclosttresin tlie form of parallelograms: the number of these issaidto be six, but if left to the guess they wouJd he taken at considerablymore. Amongst them are detached buildings and gardens;Building up and pul1ing down being the Saltan's principal method ofkilling time, half of every palace is usually a heap of ruins.The walls of the city of Morocco inc1ude a vast space.-Since it doesnot fall to the lot of many ta be able ta ascertain how much, there isgreatscopeleft for hyperbole and incredulity. As here is nofauxbourg,it could easily be a!Scertained by riding round them ou the outside; towhich probably no objection \Vonlel be made. 'fhe towers are said tostand at distances of a hundred yards, and perhaps this is not far fromthe reality. Their number, with the general figure of the place, wauldthus furnish data for determining nearly the quantity of ground intlosed.But the area, even if justly calcnlated, would throw little lightupon the question of population. The waste ground about the greatmosque seems not less than thirty acres. Arabs encamp now in thistract,like gipsies upoq a common in England. Yet this was onceunder'buildings. The palace cannot occupy much less space, and theSultan has.vario'us .gardens oesides/ithose of his residence, and manyextensive ones tooaj'e in thèpôssession of his great men. 'fhe place ofexecutions isa largeexpl?tnse.; and tbere are besicles endre tracts, sorùeunder dilapidations of I;ecent date, sable under groves, of palm-trees.How.numerous are the'Jews Hel'e!' ho'W populous their quarter!' YetnumericaUy they constitute buta very sman part of the population ofMoroeco. The Crowds of populace, and thei1' ohtrul'iiveness as elSe-

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.where in the world, debar observation, and information otherwiseobtainedcannot be depended on.But these circuulstances, abovecited, go in corroboration of the accounts ofthevast population ofcity in former times.Moorish families are very nUUle;rous>: aIl theirhabits of life are in favour of incréase :several famUies lh'~in onebouse: and in the occupied p~rts of this city the streets are nartow~and the houses closely built.youth, those under twenty.,..,five ye,arsofaxge,To observation, in the present day~ thietheïr vast crowds too, itis to bèrecèUected,on;e-halfthe female part,. does not fnakeits appearance.human race,The system of captiunor slavery, from the time'ÜfSpanish wars by land, always bysea, tendedin some degree tao to recruit numb:ers, although this is a reSOUIrcehardly worth notice in calculation.It i3 said that, in thedays of ilsglory, Morocco sent out of each of its twelve gatesninety th()us~ndcombatants.Had not this poetical historian>s love ofhyperbolebeenchecked bya qualm of conscience, the computation woùld. have been'brought up to tbe round number, a hundred,ot, perhaps.for decorum'ssake, ,~ lackingone:' (Jack Cade's regulations.) But it should be everrecolleeted, that tl!e object of the statements made by mankind is notto inform, (whowishesto make others wise 2) but to astonish. In hO\vfew cases itllife does itoccur that the appeal is to the judgement, andnot to the imagina:tïon!How many millions present the latter hold forseizure,for one furnished with the former! . Surprise too, rather thanbelief~is the superior gratification obtained in the representation .ofthings, even where natio;malvamity, asstr~nghere as elsewhere"andpardonable every where, is ont of the qaestion. T.I11e last€reee.ntJplague is reported to bavecarried off in Morocco three .lnmdredtholJ'sandlives. Yet its popnlatiOln .

; / ·'lld'll'( if'.~

LE:PE!Q,S.-Gl~;EAT MiOSQUE. ~89thtli: eEluntry given to us. Morocco two hundred andseventy thousandbundred and eighty thousand; Mequinez one hundred an4Robat twenty-five thousand; Salee eighteen thousand ;tbousand; Tetuan sixteen thousand; Saffia twelvet:}lousand; Tangier six thousand; Larachçiti8 i~possib}ç:~qraI)in this aQcount.:are narrow, dusty,They are thronged to suffocation. The~91,llderingto pieces over thehe;;1(}5 pf.theirCl):py to tbemselves distinct:,no way $ensibI~totts."call to marriage amon.g these people ls early,allp-very' powerful. Theleprosy is ascrihed by vulgar prejudice, hel'e, to a mostcurious origin,eould there he any truth in the statelnent.It is one from which it lSipdeed impo.ssible to imagine it couId ever he propagated..The gatesofSeviUe, the triumph of the mighty Alman~or *, are notto the greatmosque, but to another ancient one. The! visitors werebrougbt by.their guides. to no fewer tban four, pl1eviously tp hitting upouthe right one. \They are covered by horizo.n.i

290mete barnby the side anâ untler the shade of this vast tower.InthÎ'$:latter no exterior reduction takes place; a mode of structure whickadds considerably to effeèt upon the eye~1iar 10 Oriental architecture.But it may hesaid, 'VVh~F~rchiteéturefsThis ptincipl~ seems peclI­Dot Oriental? .The elevation of this tower i5 nearly,j~,(,~,~probable preclseI,y,the double .of the circumference,. or (about 6,~§'or6j-nearl.YJsix diameters of the base; for ther(i}/j~~e'~toha'VèBueh a rule, and the radical of theid~ai8~(bVionot inconsistent with the system~fthededi:catiûnsevenstages, to heaven, with spiralascents either e~~~rnalorwhieh last is the case here. However variedin mofle or fliffused insituation, such is the plan universallyadopted by nations of old-,whether applied to thenatural hiHoek cll'essed into regular form, or tbehighly wroughtperpendieulàftowerthe found/a.tions"theJ:!eof are laidby human hands. From Môroeco to Japan, andeastwardstiH toYucatan, aU 18 the diffusion of one primitive 'idea: "Let us ereot 'a.tower, who~etopshan reach towards heaveA.') The nlOde of roofingin the mosque ahnexed to tbis toweris worthyof notice; but its detailscould not he precisely ascecrtained\vithollta view at the inside, whiehis not praetieable exeept upon a condition not readily submittedto.It IS adapted to countries where large timber cannot he proeureâ.Beamsat right angleswith the side wans, or pêrhaps stone work suhstituted,form the support for rafters plaeed paralIel to the ridge and'Walls. A powerful thus be eonstrueted of very inftN'iormaterials. One gledasthis, with~;;,lin,requiresveryrehitecturalSPlneeurious eoinciand Dr

;;1'// /11t/>'I/I./ ,,~///:,1J!!//f:;('/

291duced $0 mlJ.çh~nt~l;lgleddiscussion mustnow he considefeQ.;a~,put tQl'est. Discretion steps in too, and observes~ it is wrong to unsettle men'sminds on any point by the starting ofnew (natter. In f~ct, the beingset ta think is Hot a mental process very gratifying ta sensation.growls, too 1 when she is jogged in her d.en :,,: the moping owl doth tothemoon comp1ainOf snch as wand.ering near her secrçt bowerMolest her ancient solitary reign."She can calI up a very chivalrous spirit in her defence tôo.ErrotBut thefact is, that errors, popular or ;Ilot, are lawful game, and free to everyone to hunt down. He who destroys one of the brood has done goodin his gene,r~tion. The origin of aIl architectureis oQscure. Whocan say heha~ traced ,the most eminent, to a certainty, up to the radicalidea? A g~ntlema:n of ready p~n sev~ral yea.J'sag() dream~~ :that theGoths, who entered upon countries under-iIih~bited.in proportion b;>their actual structures, being, on casting their eyes every where around,at a loss for models w,hereon to indulge that mania for architecture ofwhich they never exhibited any symptom at home, rummaged their re:­collection for the imagery of tboseforests which theyhad encountered soOlany dangers to get away from ; and modelling thereupon, invented themost complicated, experimental, and practically de1icate branch of thescience extant, the pointed or double-ceQtred arch. However, p.a.ssingby what eise may he thought resp.ecting this, aS the Normans, that trulygreat uation,oftaste eq~al to theirenterpri~e,had thejudgeUlCllt to adoptthisor

or Egyptian.TRAVELS IN AlRÎCA..But the specimens wê have of it are as ancient as anythat have come clown to us of tl1eéther, and are, like every descrip..tion ofthis noble art, fully wdrthy of consideration in theirway. Butupou thesubject of the science in general, it is to be ohservied, thereseem to he three"* radical styles (Hogarth's not included) pure and distince;namely, the Egyptian, derived from the Troglodyte, distinguishedby its entablature, and ofwhich the Grecian orders,às they are pomponslycalled, are a derivation; tÎle pointed architêcture, the originalideas whereofare traceable into EastScythla~ andtlîéRJoÎtlan,iiniwhiellcements and the key.ston,ewe're estahfished and prevailed. The Arabieàrchitecture doesnotusurp the distinctives of any of these, although ininferior modes,În its details, it agtees with the Scythic,-a matterworthyof animadversion.The Arahian nation, although of the highest anti..quitY in point of descent, is, as a civil body, modern. But the Calipll5\vere monarchs ·of elegant taste; talents and capacitywerediffusedthroughout the people they ruled; and the'y Had the experieuC'e anelw'O'rksof aU therr ptedecessors among tnankind atlarge to selectfrbm:Thus they chose' the clusteredeoltll1ln of Bgypt" thé arch ofRome; butreserved their ancient propensity tb the construction of high towers, thetops ofwhich should reach tOlvards heaven ; for they éver were inhabi...tants of plains, and de\'otees of Sahaism, the planetary worship.The shepherd's hut of inclined poles tied at their tops 'and coveredwith skins, nearly the wigwam of America, Îsas capable of sUPpJyillgoriginal ideas deducible to any extent, as the cave nt the cataractsofthe Nile. The ideas upon the subject have ramifledfrom botfi. ':Pheword now applied to convey that of the monatch's paJace,t)riginally signifiedthe shepherd's shed. rrhese western Arabs ,did nbt adopt thépointed style; in faet it had not reached the West in thé days of their; ioThê Cyclopean toohas a.wen~foundedetainl to J;iginality.

AItOlIr.rJWTUItE.glory. ~fheirwindowshave :fiat imposts. The Egyptians, though igllO"­rant of the key-stone, used, for donvenience, the form of the arch, andknew too the power of abutment, to full effect.It is curious to observein how many instances purblind man has fiuttered around the light ofdiscovety, without being able tocry Eureka! But many a pointed arch... was n;lade before the key-stone (the principle whereof is distinct, theformer being independent of it,) was stumbledupon; for suchhas beenthe usual process in great discoveries. The Egyptians abutted inclininginwards two straigbtstones, (to have dropped in a third would have beenbut one step,) and knew the power in confirming the process by superincumbentweight~f impost. Here,and in the clu6terings and crown..:ingsof the lotus, are to be found the :mdicals of structune, wMther originalin Egy.pt, or derived thither from Scythia. But with them, andof course with their pupiIs the Greeks, entablature stoodirt the placeafterwards consigned to the arch, uponthe principle whereof the cupolat8 a refinement, and forms a marked step ili the progl'ess of the art.lt18 curious to'observe, in sorne ancient buildings, the cautious hesitationsof the architect as to the power of the arch for superincumbent weight..Judgement and experience p,oint out to every nation the species ofarchitecture best adapted to its circumstances. Caprice, absurdity:,prej\ldice and false taste, transposethis, from Indus to the Po. TheeScythian dives ioto tDe earth to a:voKl the sweeping blast :. the Nullian,horizontallyinto the face of the rock to escape the inundations,

TRAVELS IN AlIueA.futatiou, a Gothie taste onearth*, and present days, ma.y boast themerit ·of having produced to light the h6peful bantling.architecture, 'Iike its prototype of Egypt, '\VasGreciangoverned by rule andscale; that which the Normans adopted by the sweeps of the compassi~.The elegant and convenient variety and effect, the· scope of powerwhich an artist gifted with, talent could exhibit, immediately ba411nished in the eyes of this tasteful nation all competition from duUtechnical monotony,which, for onl.y tesource lu way ofretaliation, .•recurs to terms of reproach, terms which nJarkonly .their O'Wll abs'wr.dity. See the clumsiness of the Roman, in itschild the Saxon, architecture.See the comparative destitution ofeffect in the most labouredstructures of Greece 1A manrecurs to his scale in OI'der' to discovertheir perfection. 'fhe efforts of true taste speak for themselvcs. AhiHock to the igneous rîtuaJ, shaped ifnatùral, accurnulated ifnot found,ready to hand, ,the shepherd's summer hut of t\vigs and skins, and hif:lwintercave tolodge his familyand flockin,where the 6rst etfortsofhu~aningenuity were to roll a stoue close to tlle entrauce, andmake ana;per­,ture a.bove [m' the smoke toescape, are the sources to whichalJ struc·ture and architecture are to ,he traced, whether ,sacred or œconomic,through theirlong and diversified grafJations.The Arabs, with anational chal'acteristic, adopted the hQfSe-shoe in their afchitecture~is totally faIse in principle, but itseffect i8 pleasing...ItBeing faIse inprinciple, it cannot he admissible as a distinctive style. The Arahesque... Architeeturehasever preferred strong daims. In former days these e~tellcled bt:;yp:q(1 sc:.ience,even to prœternatural resource. Etymology proves this, and Gaelie, Keltie, and Telltonie, aIt eontributetheir concurrent testimony to this effect. Passillg by the Punie SojJite, wlliehis ..modishenough, Dar:ugh and Brujo,preserved in each sense in their respective tongues, prove ~he conne~ionof asspcia,ted ideas.t Connter-segments are the distinguishing feature of Scythian architecture. Of the point.d.1ltyle,anemanatioll ofthis idea,the ehurch ofSt. Sophia ofNicotia.ia the mos.t ancient.spe~mêJ~

AîtctIl'1'ECTURE. 295é'l'naments of this âfCh are placed so as to correspond with the nails,of the mode]. In the (lrchitecture of some years back, here in Moroccd,the outline of the horse-shoe arch 15 obv10us; but the contractionbeneath is contrary to principle, and man has a faculty to be gratifiedindependent of the eye. The judgement tells him here is somethingwrong, and suspends that approbation 'which a first glirnpse caUs forth.'Vhether it has been the result of reflection and ex perience; or not, thefact ls, that the architecture of the present day here adopts the Homan,arch, and colur'nn also, which is not charaeteristic, nor has it Buch goodeffect as the ancient national one. As to the arch, the semicirc1e, hereadopted, is probably of aIl figures of this description that least pleasingtothe eye. And no figure possesses Buch powerful harmonie seales of,proportion as the arch. How this science has travel1ed to the westt'rom East Scythia, or by what route, might be still ascertained, weredue industry employed. That which the N ormans adopted seems·tohave rcached them about the tenth century; in fact, as seon'as they had acquired the power to carry it into practice. In the seventhcentury a Persian architect was much employed at Constantinople,and this city Was an entrep~tof ideas from east (the moral source)to west. The characteristics of the branch are ta be found in sacredworksofthe Gl'eek empire. In the details ofit, the ideas of Indiapre...·vail; and in that country the art of painting on glass, now 10st here,.hasexisted from time immemorial. The effects of this structure areawe, grandeur, light'Pess, ai~iness. It has been the happy lot of laterages to disparage it, for disparaged it is wherever deviated from. Forthetrue Arahesque, Seville and Granada~Si.iplFty specimens. A comparisonof the affinities between the two hranches affords sorne curiousmàtter. The modern style of this country i8 adapted to the climate,uniting coolness and cleanliness. Experience, which obeys Nature, has

· ~96 TRAVELS iN AFRICA.dictated it. But defence has always been (1 governing principle, {I,'omthe time architecture advanced so as to be thus appropriated.It Wasa natural consequence; 'but people wished to connect convenience andbeauty- therewith. Hence grew the castellated taste, which pervades theancientArabesque, fritfered to a cettain degree, but obviOlJS, and eleganttoo.To convey a cheerful idea, buildings. must be preserved in themostperfect orcier ; put decay without dil~pidation,by breaking thesurfaces and softening the outlines, gives to a building a beauty beyond.the reach of art. And to this pleasing state, the architecture of ~Io...fOCqO of Arabesque, or, as it may becalled here, ancient style, tendswith a m05t happy ,rapidity.The modern. domestie architecture hemhas no military ideas of ornament; nor has the milita.ry archite~ture.anydeeoration, possessing much of the eharadet of that of the Romans,~hard in outline and paltry in effeet.Theembattlements and,gates. ofMor6cco are very rieh in ornament here, tne restoftheworkusuallyplain,.Little has been as yet said of the J ews, frequently as they presentthemselves hem to a stranger's notice. Noneèan. be more importa1\tamong the people of this country to a European, for on. them he isohligedin almost every respect todepend.said ,he lS to li\r.e.By them il may almost beThey afford a. lamentable instance of the depth t,owhich politieal degradation Dlay moral1y debase human nature.Thefa.cts will speak for the causes. Under aIl their vexations, their honourableattachment to their' religion is as inflexible as elsewhere.Christians renegade daily; or, if they do not, it is fQr wallt of en­·couragement: but such a thing is unknown among the JC\vs. Jt isprobable, however, 1Vlohomrnedism would not permit ·itself to be poIlutedby the introduction ofa Jew convert, any more than it wouldfeela triu.filph in making one. However, they perf()rm their ritt;f'al illîch,eirsynagogues herè, to the honour ofŒe establ;shed te1~gion, unmolested

DEGRADED STA1JE OP THB JEWS AT MOROCCO. ~g7by outrage or Mockery•.Men and women, at their service, recite prayerswitl:f somewhat of a musical cadence, nodding the head as if keepingtime. They have no objection to the appearance of strangers at theirreligious cere1l1ony. Tbe rabbi aIso reads and expounds 1.0 his Bockthe holy writings. Itappears as ifwith them the exercise of their religionwasa compensation foreveryevilin life. How great, hôwdiffhsivea blessing! They afford a rev'enue to the state for their toleratio}J,as subjects, paying a capitation tax on aU males who have reached theage of puberty. This capitation tax is a kind of political protection.They are at worst not the outcasts of the state, although they de nots6'ar tt;J the degreeofserfage.-If the period of payment he i i disputed~ astringispatl'eund the.lad'sneckand afterwards doubled in length andput inhismouth 1 if then;·and thus, it pass ovel' his bead, he is deemedanobject of taxation;. if otherwise, note This procedure passes uriderthe inspection of the heads of the Jew nation here, who rate cach indi.vidual, or ought to do so, according 1.0 hisahility to pay, and thus$akeup the sum required. Each Jew appears in person to pay hisqU()ta; and this heing done, a Moor touches him on the head with aswitch, and says, " Jump:" whereon the Jew goes his way. It is rem~rkablehowt1lœepeoplehere delight in personal finery, almostequally asitisby wiha! means theyacquire or retain it. Young and old, althoughthey hardlYdare venture to stand still ~r look around them in the streets,from fearof'personalo1:1trage, wiU have an ample stockoi splendiddothing,

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.nish admiraIs, but their whole clothin~the most whin'lllicai combinations or contrasts.from. head to foot arraug~dFor instance, on a ru~na greasy nightcap on the head, just .barely showing that it had oncebeen white, surmounted by a great three-cocked hatwitha broad galdlace! i\ny one who has visited these countries .will hardlyreqllire tohe reminded of the beauty of the daughters of Israel. Ovid~s characteristicsare however still tooapplicable. AIl have fine eyes.,~(}sthavefine features: nbr lS beauty so transient.a flm~er with them"or.its1088a cause of such early regret, as insome io~herJewess has that of her period of life,.morepowerful often singly, thancO~U:fltries./.'lZ~~(nlatr(}n:with youtb on itsside. fj'he .widow often shiQes as pre-eminent amongstthem as in' the eyesof our Scandinavian al)cestors of the cold shor~s.ofthe Baltic.U nfortunately, they seem. tohold .no beauty of complexionin estimation, save that which isthe.res·lllt orthe labpur of their. own;hands.. In consequence, the colour~box isa. great·.. deal too llluchre..Cllff,Cd to, and distant effect Imuch more. studiedtha.P-~lo~~f ip.v~!ii~~g~0ti.gn'f~ill .bear out. As to the littlern.~;t1Fagem~l;1tsto gi.verelief.to itheeye~, ih~tisnoway exceptionaple; bllttpe use of whitepaint is delete,..rious in a high degree. As before.observed, n(}twithstandingall this, aJewis.notpermitted to appear without-doors save in black, a colout of evilomen in ~1oorish eyes.Avidîty toobtain, and artto conc~al.money,are the main stimuli of 'action with this people, and the teudency oftheir industry and earliest education.-From amongtlH;:~ll,chi~fiy,theCbristians take their domestic servants ,; because, although not socleanly, they are less s(:rup.ulous about forms than the Moors. As a.community, they are subj.ect to every oppress~on. 80 circumstanced,. itis unnecessary to add that, asindividllals, they must)of coursebe d~ilysubje.ct to every injury.Al\;lllssulman. elüld of eight y:e~l'sof i\ge!~lreadybeg~nsto exert his early-feltpow~r to tyrannize,y ~Qd l\eviles in

prem~ttrtreDEGRADED STATEO'p TRE .J.RWS AT MûRûCCû. 2"99malignity,hy abusing, striking, and stoning the Jew, whosehand, hehas aIready been told, if raised against him, is infaIlibly eutoff. It rnay weIl be judged what must be the effect upon a commünity,in point ofidepravation, always to see at hand a people the readyinviters, "by theiJ; debased political situation, ~nd convenient conductors,oftheebuUitions of the viIest, Pllt at the sam

500 TRkVELSJN AFRICA.respectfully, or, as they term it, giving tbemill treatment.Thelareohliged to walk bear~footed by the doorof e1very mosq.ue, and also'\>;rthose of the houses of the officers ofstate, unless they should he elevatedto the dignity of a Christian's servant, in which casetheyare exempted.-Their religion prohibiting the use of any food not killed by themselves(the importance annexed to this process of human life extendsamongst other ancientnations as .weIl as this) causes a positive internaIassociationamongst themselves, which is aclb.éred .towith a rigiditYQfwhich rare specimens to like effect can beboastedby.ohvistiansor lMohommedans.The Jew interpreterof the English embassy, by nàrneIsaac, in compliance with bis Jaw, .which adroits of no dispensations,would eat nothing but eggs on his route, from the timehe left Morocnountil he reached Tangier; and,had he notmet with them, would cer~tainlyhave died sooner than have broken his.fast~ ThetteaJmentofthisIlatioJ1 in England, mutatis m«tandis, was Jittle betterthanhere, as mayheseen in "Anglia Judaica," and the" Chronicles." It is not con.sistentwith historical dignity, whicn cver must he tllé histewiat{s first abject(truth owes about aSllluch ta bistoryas scienc.e does tothe classics), as itrs (like the master's honoun in those ofhis servant according to Swift) inhis hands, ta notice such a tritle as a massacre ofeight or ten thousandincorrigible unbelievers, deaf to argument and blind toJact. It is thereforeuseless to look for information in that quarter. But facts are stu b­barn, and must make people weigh weIl, before they may feel authorizedto throw exclusive censure on others. But the motive, to he sure, wasgood: A murdered infant was found in a ditch; and this was Jew-work,in mockery of our Saviour's crucifixion. Engravings ta similar effectare at this moment in circulation in Spain. Such Îs the cordial propensityto 11a11oo man on to persecution! But in the situations nowrecited, this wretched community furnishes a la.mentable proofof·· the

DEGRADED STA.TE OP THE JEWS AT MOROCCO. 301folly ofapeople.venturing upon the acquisition ofproperty, under anystate..witoout being duly guarded by the possession of an adequateproportion of weight in the balance of politieal power, whatever formthat lat(er may happen to bear. Still, however, it i8 but common justiceto admit the Jews to the benefit of their own golden rabbihieal law,whiçh inculcates it as a point ofjustice, not to condemn the conductofotber8, without first eonsidering how we would ourselves act -werewe in their places. Keeping this most just principle in view, the discussionthis people here in their circumstances demand shaH be proceededin.They were ordered no doubt to, and did, in consequence,send their presentto the representative of His Britannic Majesty. To aparty straitly lodged, and in a warm climate, it was rather an inconvenientacquisition,-..a c~wa.ndher calf~! Although fully sensible ofthevalue of the one in œconomics, aI)dalthougb the other did 'not amountto an abomination, such &s their historylamentably testifies, not beingofgold, yet it was absolutely necessary to declille the politeness of thosewho sent them.But although the utmost deference was used in sodoing, and an appeal to their very feelings made upon the circumstaI)ces,still those c~mmissionedto present this national offering departedevidentlymortified in the failure of their mission. But not topursue diBcussiQI) unless where at least supposed sufficient grounds pre­~.f)t themselves, and to proceed with generaI observations :-It must beadmitted that the fauIts of a people are ta be traced into the vices oftheir government; nOf, if it h~ niuch easier to reproach than ta reform,will this convenient system forceits way iuto sound argument. Here i8a people absolutely brought by its politi,çal situation to'buy and torturecach other, in the expectation of making something to themselves by it !lnctedible as it may sound, it is as weH authenticated a Ülct as any in-------------------------:------• Hàppily, no bribery was intended, and in consequence no mystery requisite on this occasion.Bad it been 50, the procedure would have amounted to a very serious inconvenience.

302 TRAVELS .IN AFRICA.',. thistory.A Jew bid for a Jew: of course some pretext in the. way pfinculpation is requisite in order to save.appearances, for the advantil.g~sof morallife; but that is readily found in such a case. He offered t oth~Sultan a specific SUll, to get out of his brotller aH he cOldp-by the aidof pincers and hot irons. The speculation was thought a.good one, because,even if no pecuniary advantage followed, tbe pleasures of thetorture were certain. The person bid for, of course.defended himselfat the same weapons. Protection by some person of cousequençe 18now chiefly sought by them, as is always th~ qasewh~r~ .a people/hasnone, or merely a nominal one, fronl the laws; nominalindeed here, ifextant at aIl. For it may readily bejudged how effectuaI these mustbe to the purpose, when originating in, and administered by, those whphave an interest in their perversion.In{ieed a case will hardly be sUP..posed in which a Jew should recul' to Mohpmmedan ]aw for support,tais is mostly general moral; and as tp that of the land, it is aIl in th!3mouth of the monarch of the day. DuCthe mor~ dependent a sitpationis, the more facilitiesit will possess of that substitute caU~d protection;for it must pay tne higher price, beprepared to make the greatersacrifices,to obtaÎn it. Hence its numerous instances here. Such drudges,. . .such services, so easily rewarded, readily find nl-asters. And undersuchas have any consequence, the Jew's case is materially altered.Thegreat man's Je.w must not be molested with impunity;. indeedtheformer takes as an offcnce to himself, the very touching'the hem of.hisdependent's garment;and resentmel1t accordingly ensues: so COII)­pletely does he idel1tify \Vith the idea of property. Protection, however,lS aIl the wages paid. lt is strange to see a nation once sobrave aqcl.warlike humiliated to this degree. It seems as jf aIl theÎr ~nergy leftthemwith the destruction of tbeir temple,: like the bees, too, in anotherrespect, they clung with an instinctive perseverance to ils cinders tothe '~ast, until indeed t~)ey aftorded an item in the sad catalogue of vic..

DEGRADED S'rATE OF 'l'BE JEWS AT MOROCCO. 303tims to Roman:' virtue, until by it thrown to perish in the flames.strong affinity rUns here throughout between human nature and animalinstinct.They are now the swarm without a leader or a habita'..tion; whilst in att~ndancefor,the one, indifferent about the other, andliving on hope. ' The reasoning in the plain of Shinar was just. Oppression,however, as weIl as poverty, seems ta act in aid ofhumanmultiplication; the mandate of God prevails over the wrongs of man.In poverty, if exempted from the actual visitations of war, pestilence,and famine, the nllmbersmust still increase, still swell beyond the actuaIbounds of maintenance; for it is a procedure in which calculationtakes no placé. l'hè business of government is to still extend pro..portionâtèlytbeaetion at least, and therewith eventually the power and:resources of thé 8tate,by stin fipding useful employment for the' onIyreal wealth of the community, the numberofits hands.The1visdom ofpower is provèd in the results.Wisdom w'as bestowed on man to conductto happiness: and we may be assured, if political evil prevail ina common\vealth, there must he folly somewhere in the machinery.in thelowest part of the community the great law ofNature is e,veroperative, so there is inatistocracy, the deficiency whereof as a body isof Stlcb bad consequences herein Morocco" a dominatory process everopera.ti've,though not 50 conspicuousIy in converse. Ari8tocracy, how:.o 'eV'er absolutely necessary in politics, is not founded in nature. Nereisnobrall'ch of trade in whichthe Jews do not take an Interference,none inwhich their so doing' is not useful to the, Christian merbhant.They are active,deeplyintelligent, and labour, asmay besupposed, forverymoderate profits*.Among the extraordinary traits ofcharacter which mallkind presents,and whicb are, perhaps, no where more strongly marked than il1 tbisAAs*' Buzagl0, so weIl known once in London, Was a creditable specimen of a Moroquin Jew.

304 'l'RAYELS IN AJ'RICÂ.very country, and the people now underobservation, some may'think itnot the least 50, that one so completely prostrate in thedust shouldshow sentiments of emotion and reseutment in the face ofpower. Andyet snch is the inconsistency of man, that this has been ,the case, andrecently. A few days before the arrivaI of the embassy at Morocco, aMoor rnurdered a Jewish merchant, cut,his body in pieces, and threwthem into the shafts or ventilators of the aqueducts in thepIail1, aIreadyde~cribed. The Jews of Morocco, with a zeal and energy hardly to beexpected from a people 'so circumstanced, andwhichshow the stuffiyetlatent in the nation, by a most active sedulous search, in spite of power,awe, or connivance, discovered the murderer, who was seizedalldthrown into prison, where it was intended to have punished him, Dotcapitally, because in this respect the monarchyis a Iimited one, but bya severe bastinadillg, which, it is to be observed, maybeso managedas to have aIl the e.ffect of death. The Jews, however, in the interim,under a strong sense of the wl'ong sustained,col1ectediD'crowds aronndthe palace, and clamouredfor justice. Inclined toward the heaveIi..descended principle as the Sultan then was, when his ears were assailedby this unaccustomed sound, and he learned··that it was these infidelswho had dared to raise their voices around the precincts of royalty, heordered his guards forthwith to beat them home ta their quarter janorder which they had a great deal too much at heart not to execute,con am01'e, with an unmerciful punctuality of obedience and energy.And to their quarter they were, in consequence of this indiscretion,con6ned on the arrivaI of the embassy in thiscity; in consequence ofwhich its throngs surpassed imagination. The opportunity wasnotomitted of imposing a heavy fine on them. Gdmination a source ofp\lblic l'evenue, delinquency an object of fosterage as a prop Qf thestate, private vices public benefits, aH the political Jesuit.ry of Europewill meet ,countenance on tllis~ide oi. tbe!!Strait~~ All l&bours here

DEGRADED SI'AI'E €>F THEJEWS AI' MQllOCCO. 305..l,éneaitb ::Mohommedansdevolve on the Jews; sucb, for'instane,e, ascarrying' a Christian through the surfs of the Atlantic, huryingexecutedérirnlnals, supplying the caHsof the menagerie.In fict,wheneverpmver basa caU for ascavenger, that office

306 Tll.AVELS IN AFlnCA.mind. Tt is the misfortune of strangers,.and perhaps more particularJyof such as come in a public situation, that they must. he chiefly conversantwith the worst samples of the nations they visit; the dignifiedand respectable characters reserve themselves in the hack ground,the worthless protrude themselves. How unjust, then" to judge anation under such circumstances ! Such as present themselves for hireand reward, it may he supposed, have very fewscrupIes. It. is theirbusiness to crave and to ask. They can haye neither pride nor shameon these points. A gift to them is ouly an incitement to a new de~mand. The circuitous or decorous way of asking a present is to sendone. This is usuallya blmquet. But the' return must be more substantiaI;ofless transient value; more. commodious too to conveyance, andperhaps, for l'easons that may he guessed, concealmeht, than that of theJews hefore mentioned. A hundred oxen roal'ing af tne levée of.aMoorish courtier would excite a degree of attention that he could. weIldispense with. AIl decorum, however, on such points is occasionallythl'own away. Thus, an English gentleman unadvisedly showed a penknifeofcurions workmahship to a Moor in rather a conspicuous situa~tion oflife, who immediately, on a slight inspection, pocketed it. Afterseveral delicate hints for the article to he returned, such, for instance,as the cutting of love, and the like, whichpassed unheeded, the 'guropeanwas under the necessity of telling the other "he wanted it.""Oh," replied the Moor, "as to that,-I 'lRJant' it too." The suitorcertainly took the weaker purchase of .the argument, and he failedac~eordingly. In regard to general intercourse or dealings with these people,however, it is to be ohserved,' here is no very exaIted idea entertainedamong them of Europe~n talent. And as to principle, that part ofthe na~tion with whom strangers unfortunately have to aet, the instruments of adepiaved system ofgovernment, the morality confiQed to a rigid~onformitywith the exterior forms of religion, a Pharisean exhibition of long

HEPORTMENT, GRÂVITY~STATURE OF THE MOORS. 301prayers before the eyes of the people, or counting over a string of beads,vhile the thoughts are revolving on things below, cannot be supposeà~by aught believed of it, to com~ey to the minds of the community anyvery correct idea of the application of this tie and check in the intercourseof life..As to foreigners too, and the business which bringsthem here, the prospect iB likely to be but Iittle amended. In censuringthe Moors, we should look about to see if wecontribute, by our intercourse,to improve them. UnquestionabIy, England i5 more respectedtban any other Christian nation here.But matters considered by us as. trifles, make very serious impression on the minds of this people. Exteri9rgravity, manner, the extent of the mind, a thing very independentof the antecedents, but which tbey, though not bookish, have awqnderful knack at reading, are aIl seriously adverted to by them.Tbey are, still, veryapt tojudge ofwhat they do not see, by that whichthey do, like other meh. Europeans are notsufficiently aware of thenecessity of tbis advertence to e.deriors.The free manners of their owncountries are by no means compatible witb tbe ideas of a people whichconsiders decorum a Ieading virtue.Our diminutive stature, comparedto their portIy forms, so humiliating to us, and our faces divested of themasculine appendage of a beard, to wbich tbey annex 80 much respectas to deem it hardIy a degree short of sacred, disparage us furthttriatheir eyes, " Nosotros somos hombres a muchac/ws"-" Wc are men~ youbutchildren," was a phrase which, often as it was dilllled in the cars,in case of altercation,-a procedure one would think "no person wouldvoluntariIy get into here, where neither politics nor the bottle come iQsupport of the life of cOllversation,-did not improve by repetitioB.The young Moor i8 occasionally inclint!d to the vice of youth everywhere,arrogance, (if it abandons age, it is only from conviction of itsfutility,) and nothing is gained by endeavouring to set him right, inteaching him his true rank in society. A.thankless good office, indeed, in2R2

,308 TRAVELS IN AF'RICA.l110st cases throughoutthe'world!Here, certainly, very refractory andcontumacious pupils would present themselves for instruction. Gravity;however, seems' to have been ever a national. characteristÏc; for Cervantes,a tolerabledefiner of mankind, speaks of it. The private lifeof a Moor is insipid, as maybe supposed of people who have no pur..suits, and whose beads, from theirlimited education and observation,cannot be over-stocked with ideas. Theil' amusements are cavaltading(a remnant of old Arabie chivalry),. seeing the performances ofjugglers,or sitting in groups and taciturnity underthesliade of a lofty wall,looking at thepassengers in thestreets. :In, the house, one ehtertainstherestby telling a story. Ofcourse.itmaybe supposed that the epithetof amatter-of-fact man, which satisfiesus in Europe, would not beesteemed a :very gratifying compliment hene.Probability must bein..deed the least interesting feature of thecoHoquy, and ·this tao musthaye astron~ moral effect.rrhey have also professed story-tellers, whoare.paid.. They;play at what we calI Polish drafts.Prayershowever, theMohommedan ritual,occupy the principal part of the daily attention.They;smo~eJitt1e,butarefond of snuff and of opium ; and the commonalty,toget l'id of the tœdium vitœ, tbat mental incub~s, use theplant they caH ashisha, a species of hemp, the bang of India: It hasthegeneral effects of what issought for thepurpose, being aphrodisiacand narcotic.They dry the leaves over fire, reduce them to powder,swallow. this, (it brings to mind the Scythian customs describedbyHerodotus '*,) and thence, by the tension the nerves receive, derive adèlirium producing not delight and gaiety, but raving and Frequenthorror. They soliloquize. and tremble, they sec1ude themselves; fearand despair, the physiognomi~l horror, seize them, and are strongly ùepicted.Yet they will recul' to this situation, with aU their experiénce• The 8cythians dried the herb they used for the purpose on a brass plate or pan, .and tambacoÎI5 the word·in mPtlern Scythie for this utel1sil. Ta.b-aceo is not a word ofgenuine American root.

'fIlEtR HATRED OFSTUDY AN!) REFLECTION. 309ofit, andgp thrpllgh aU the tJ;ouble of the prefatory process, with maliceprepense aga~nst themselves, rather thansustain the ennui of re..maining in- their senses, of ~owmuning w~th thcmselves-such bad corn..pany is self found to be.which pervades!ill mankipd.Education alone cancheck the propensityTbishereis an evasion of :Mohommedaninstitutipn (on s'«vise javt(J,isçle(out). ~lbe~rksomeness of mental inac..tipp, which Tacitus charge,s .t9 the anciept GerPlans as au inconsistency,that fnandatory principle, which CPPlpels totllor!iI effort, good or bad asif i,s induced by the objects w.bich present themselves, is most predo..minant ,vith those who are capab,le ôf rt~flecting the least.Bence manrcc,urs, for respite fro~~,l1Ïs Q.wn persecutions, toc every palliative, from(E,il .df1perPrix to hangflPd the toadstool, according as his situation,pl!ices hiOl in the telllperate.climates, ip the Deccan, or at North Cape.The same yenchant governs.froID the equator to the pole, Spain pel'';'hapsexcepted, where stoicism seemS tohave completely supervened it..Tbe abstraction ..which MohoIDmedan institutions induce from scienceand study, must have powerful nwral, aswell as political effect ; political,indebasingmen'snündsfrom thoselegitimateand useful pursuits wherebytl}e comllJQn stock of knowledgc is in a regular progress of increase, atthe"salUe time tl)at a. due share ~f individual occupation preserves tot4emthat eguilibrium oElife so little kno!Vn here, where no third estateexists betweentorpor and turbulence, whepcearises the spirit of intrigue,th!it cijrse ofpoJitical.organization, withaIl its baleful conseg u~nces.As unguesÛQnably a divine trqip. as it is, that po LIT leALIN STI..TU~IO~S SUOULD. BE ~EGUr..A'fED BY TUE SCALE OF HUMAN KNOW­LEJ)GE, it is no less" a pojnt of fact that education should be diffu.s.edand advancedin proportion to the growthof nations. The immediateeffect. of want of education on the mora1ll1an is destitu tion ofideas: whether this he, or be not, negative bappiness, here is now"no

TRAVELS IN AE'RICA.occasion to discltss ; but certain it is, man cherishes and adheres to theideas he does possess, with an estimation proportioned t.o theirrarity,and this constitutes narrow minds.'Vhena portrait ofan European ofdistinction was shown here to a certain Moor, not of the ordinary chlss,he looked behind the frame to see what was become of the l'est of theman. Convinced tbat the similitude 'thus effected to human 'nature \Vas"-powerful, his observation , was, "Why does nothe speak?" Amongthe various eifects of ignorance upon the minci, not the Ieast notieeableis the impression tbiltany power; the operation of which is beyond thecomprehension, is competent to-infinity.Now as m{)st powers, to afaeuIty thus cireumscribed, aTe out ofits bounds, the ignorant man can·not conceive that it is not as easy to make siJeak, as look.If the fae.simile is practicable in one case, why not in another? He mu~t be aduB felIow indeed, who, having,got sof~r, should stop there.nut snehare tIlt' etfects of science having faHen into inaclequate hands! !-Howdifferent would it have been had the business beentaken up by thosecompetent to sueh a thing r1-Here,however, we have a radical bf varionsfable which pervades the world, From l'ts very infancy clown to thisday.We meet with gross absurdity daily at home, but the differenceis in the mode; and it is modes that people go abroad to sec, for manis the same every where. Mt'. HamHton, in his" Egyptiaca," justlyobserves,(strange" that a country which has been the grand entrepôt oiideas, should now have beeomeso barrenof them as to be quoted forobtuseness of perception !) that any thing, to strike people of the dass ofmind ofthe nativesthere, should seem out ofthe bounds ofnature. 'Whateveris ,vithin them is no wonder. The ingenuity then oft.he Euro'pean..isjudged by the criterion of Moliere's cook: "Any cook can give a gooddinner with money: ifyou assume excellenèe, produce us one withoutit/''Vhat the Moors were in Spain, why should they nOitbe iu MOfOè-

THEIR MORAL~QU,ALITIESWHElol IN SPAIN. 311co*? rrhey;were tbere held ing()od estimation for their moral qualities bytbeir Christian neighbours; and this could hardly havebeen the case ifilley had not deserved it, earned it by their virtues.sufficient testimony to this "effett.Sancho Panza is aHe i8 not one from whom Iiberalid.eas applied to an opposite sectal'ian cQuld he expected of luxuriantgrQwth. Yet theyexisted. On their expatriation there, an~ redintegrationhere, they had no resource but thecities. 1'l)is too was, it mayalmost be said, tbeir natural life. They were more than gregarious" theyhad become almost artificiallylcivic.The manners of the Fezzians, asdescribed in the last century but one, are in aH probability characteristicof what prevailed ln the preceding one, and on the other side of theStraits. They probably so existed until an ungenial political state;wielded by that r~former of human nature, Muley Ishmael, demoralizedaIl bere. The narratoris Jezreel Jones. The private life of the Mooris nowhere so successfuHy detailed, and the bonlwmmie of these goodhumouredFezzians entitles them to a better lot than their descendantsbave drawn in life.They had too, in the wars of the Country, manage.ment and firmnessto capitulate with this royal and powerfully gifted fe-,;'rocious savage, who does not appear to have broken Faith with them.One" \Vord of credit at least is due to this man's character. In the ensuingdays of anarchy he wasregl'etted throughout his dominions; 80 truelS the proverb amongst the Turks, who have too good substantiation fprit at home. Besides, he was too competent to his business, to l'equirethe aid ofsubaltern tyranny. ' But for the Fezzians.-" A ~foor at sunrisewashes, dresses,. goes tomosque, and breakfasts on thick barley,or wheate'n gruel, with herbs and spices, among which origanllmpredorninates, (no wonder that rats colonize the plain of .Morocco,) together\Vith hot bread, of hasty-pudding, wlth butter" and honey (a'* For Monommedan respectability in point of personal character, ask their neighbours on theside of Hungary. They necd Dot shrink from any competition.

TRAVEL5 IN AF'IUCA.p17etty tolerable commencement of theday's businèss).~ConsistencJprevails throughout). Cuscusu*iseaten,,,v;ith flesh, with milk,withroots.Their mid-clay repast cons,ists df kabab mutton (chaps ,wrappedin cawI), aIsdouf (~ermicelJi), andmeat, spiced Meat, savaury broth;stewed mutton with forced Meat in onion coats, and green grapes,aH"Stewed together and highIy seasoned with pepper, salt, and saffron.rphenedge-hog is a princely dish with them. The pOJ;cl1pine isa tàvourite,stewed. Fish they have of various 50.rt5. Caple practice of the idolatrous nation!> there, andof most of the inhabitants of Africa, many of whom practise it eVCll at this day, of eating raw meateut out of animals alire. "Eat not the llesh with the bIood thereof, for the. blood is· the lifethereof."

~OORISH HOSPITALI'l'Y. 313are of thewild kïnd, not being domesticated he're. These good Mohom~merlans planted vineyards and drank of the wine, and 50 forth; not topRrticularize further, lèavîng it for,our authority. "When a numberof them, with every one l,is mistress, appoint to be merry, they retireto theïr vineyard or garde.f;l, where they have music, and aU or mostofthe aboye dishes, and there sit and carOuse over a greatearthen bowlfull of wine, of four or fivegallons, drinking round outofacup holdingnearlya pint; and they seldom part uutil they have made an end ofthe whole. When one neigllbour has a guest at his house, others onknowing it send each his dish, and come themselves to keep company{thus we tihd the origio of pic-nic,'and thus nothing is new under thesun). The Jews hereare equaUy hospitable. (See Saugnier's testimonyto their honour,ofrecent date,in the SE)uth.) , They eat the Young beeswhilst whitewith the honey, ~se the left hand iheating, and Iick théirfingers cIean" (a remnant of the ancient and sacred kitchen system):lff.The inhabitants of the (.soi-disant) ancient towns consider themselvesas ofa more honourable extraction than any other people in this country.Such are the resources of vanity :-one piques himself on being aninvader or conqueror, auother that he is an aboriginal. 'fhese civicMoors.are indeed in many instances the descendants of the scientificandckevaleresque race of AndaJusia and Grc(llada. Considered as QIttrridersby those who had stepped into .their'places here, theiç ejectionfroni Spain was peculiarly 'cruel. They had been ,80 ~ong addicted tocivic éase and b~okish indolence, that they were,lVhe~ forced to returnto Africa l'rom the Peninsula, utterly unable to cope with the barbarousfanatics who had usurped their primitive soU ; and they became, or Continued,tradesmen and a.."tizans, ieaving the cultivation of the earth to,.. A dog ·feast is a favourite one with the Indians or Savages of North America, who are supposed, to be of Tartar descent. And their soleron treaties or agreements of association are generally ratilied01: solemnized with such feasts. In most of their dogs there is a mixture of the fox.2 S

314 TRAVELS IN AP'RICA..Hie Arabs.And even at this day, under every disparagement, ,t'he per-.fection to which they carry some mannfaetwres proves the extent~ftheir talents in that Hne; and under, too, that discouragement toaIl in­' enjoy itsrèsults'f Yêt manyofthesehouses,so. mealll60king 'without,are, weare assured, the converse 'ofthe Bhârisee, beautifully fitted up and',furnisbed within. 1 1 his showstbc,tendeneyofthe taste of the people. Thus in cllecking expenditure,and thereby deadeningthe springs of its own resources, does thewretched policy of despotic, and eonsequentlyill-advised government,defeat evenits own and Immediate intere,sts, while it ehtails misery onaH arbund. The Moors (strangers must Observe) are muchmore strictthanthe 'J'turks in regard to their mosques, not permitting any but thefaithful to enter them. This is the more partieular, qsthe grand signioris considered as the head of that religion sinee the extinction of the caliphat,the remoYal whereof (it may be observedhere by the way, withdue apology for the formidable digression,) from Medina toBagdat,:li' Mequin~z and Fez~Ufacturesill~, lea.tbe~Janqpotter,)' beautifully. None is wrought atTangier aile !e~uan.

HOURS OF PRAYER.-BELIEM IN SPIRITS. 315very materiatlJ infl;uenced the events of this country, rendering the lieutenancythegovernmentheres:tood on, next to nominal. And things wouldhavegone on better, couid that empire have beeu duly substautiated.The Moor's hours of prayer are sun-rise, mid.day, sun-set, eight o'dock,and mid-night; sp that a Mussulman's devotion isnotpermitted to doze.On ordinary days a white, on Friday a blue flag gives them notÎ.ce duringthe day; at night a crier pronounces from the strmmit of Hie mosquêtowerthe Prophet's creed, " God is great: there. is but one GOd, and M~hommedis his prophet." A pithy sentence. Of course the Moors willhe concluded superstitious. Atheism at any rate never appears to haveentered their minds·,. They are usually ~onvinced of the existence of adassofbe.ings of a .. spiritual kind (as so many in Europestill think), whichhaunt and oc.cupY every objeétof'Nature that attracts ~otice, whether"mountain; river, streamlet, groVe,.Of cell," who aréactuated, bygratitudefor due res,pect shown, butofotherwise a highly itritable disposition;but who are equaUy and principally roused by the two very opposite ex:'citements of neglect and obtrusiveness; so that the}' seem to possess astrong portion of the capriciousness, whether they do or do not the va:"rious other penchants, (very serious annoyallce they wouid afford to Mo:..hommedans,) of the classicaLdivinities: that elegant mythology, (such is1\1r. Gibbon's ter01,) the details whereofwere furnished by the luxuriant.imaginations of the philosophicloungersof the Pirreus,-Some Europeansindiscl'eetlybathing Jate, and: haying thereby caught cold and consequentfever,wete,astlte natives terllled it, "stricken by thèspirit orthe river~ AtheÎsm i~ a' ~entimentunnatural t~. the mind ~f man. f;ven' the savages in America have anidea of both a good and a bad spirit; ". To the latter ther ascribe earthquakes, hurricanes, and conVUlsion!!natural and civil; and to hitn they sometimes pray and Blake pl'opitiatory offerings; taking ie .for granted, that the former or good spirit, who is supreme over aU, will not hurt them. They a180suppose that therewiU he a state of future existence, in which they will he îndulged, provîded theybehave weIl in this, in their favourite pursuits andenjoyments.~s2

516 TRAVELS IN APRICA.for disturbing him-at an unseasonable hour/' Night is, as witb childrènll'the season of trepidation. lVlany Moors will not go out of their housesafter clark, from dread of spirits: and no inducement could encourage oneof the lower class ta try the bottom of a spring in the Dutch eonsul'sgarden at Mogador, from the same reason. 1t is however more materia.lta observe, that, offence to local divinities out of the question, it is verydangerous to remain near water hereat sun.set and shortly after. 'remptingand inviting as the situation is, the dew Falls, or rather is condensed,in and at such a place and hour, with intensely balefuleftect.Asto thecustom here, formerly mentioned,of hanging upon trees votive offeringsto local imagina;rydivinities, the idea is derived as remotely as fromScythia, whence indeed, if, as is the case~ Egyptwas the hot-bed ofsuperstition, she has invariably received ber seecls.In faet it is, likeanother custom here, so well known in Ireland, that of Iighting fires onSt. John's eve of our calendar, withina few generations aS ancient asdman himself. The oId leaven is still latent in the race.The Mohommedan law and religion, which are so closely interwoven,injure the moral sense of decorum in sorne delicate,points, and so far de-Iduct from whatlittle dignity poor human nature is' able to assume or laylegitimate daim to, which is but a modicum at the utmost. Decericy isthe first, andprobably the only innate idea of the abstract description inthe human mind. We see it in the infantat the breast. Ifso, it certainlywas instilled for wise purposes, anù why should· man step in withhispains to cancel that which Îs implanted trom above ?After al~,~the wholeprofligacy and i11 habits of future life, so deeply is it seated, are harelysufficient to do this completely. But here it is done by law. Most conspicuously,certainl'y, in the case of marriage. The Harem code, as it atpresents stands, is an abomination; but it might he softened down. Pallasascribes the vices of the Tartars, snch as they possess, to a lia:remedu~'

cation, and, justly.CONSEQUENCE,S;OF 'FHE HAREM EDUCATION. 317Under the system, thewomen become what the-yhaveheendepicted in Egypt, farouches et stupides, and to such beings isconfided the hope in the rising generation!The consequence is obvious:the young men must turn out into theworld with aIl the effects of homeeducationwith us ;-with gross propensities and vacant minds. But in regardto the rules and regulations of this institution, ifthey dive with an indecorousscrutiny into the minutire ofnature on the one hand, en the othercertainly due care is takenthat rash charges shaH not avaiJ, as in. somemighty important cases indeed, a complete jury, no fewer than twelvewitnesses, are required to give testimony to a point offact.In regard to, wi~nesses, toa, here isamost extraordinaryexception. "Idcirco ego inducttltrussummalu'P'I,in.domumJurtJbami, et excisurus; sumJurobamo min-­geutem cont~a'Parietem.~'Here( is a,denunciation.ln this country irisan act of infamy. The Romans adopted the principle of the. denun-.•\j;;;ciation; for when they stor'med a town they killed aH the dogs..ft liasbeeo atterripted to make out .an explanation of the extraordinary idea·there couveyed, by this route; but insurmouritable stumbling-blocks presentthemselves, and whatever road is taken this will not serve.Some·circumstancesshould induce it to be thought that the idea was confineditotheJine of Japhet, as now it is acted upon: but are the Per.sians- oftthis.gènealogy? And a mast particalar ordinance upon thesubject isan;article .of the Sadder. Thustoowe find, witl}, their Greek bretbren, the'warnifl.g, " ConJraSolemne meito~.~' 1.i'be mostancient 0,Ji: their didactics,the writingsofHesiod, relatealso,to this point. Snch things,induce the,surmise that the idea was anannexation~to the solarritual. Its,diffusionis a proof of its remote antiquity. A custOlJ.l established in contravention.totheordinary dictation and! process ofnature-for the opposition of instinctand mode is redprocal and complete, to tl~ercmotest undulationsof the great circle of mankind, to its extremest radii-for it pervaded

318 TRA V~L8 IN APRIUA.Arnerica--elearlydesignates the antiquity of the regulatioD, howe~ersug~gested, certainly derivedfromone ofourcommon parents. East Scythia;trace its course as wemay, presen,ts itselfas itssite. It does not appearto have beeu inherited by tuase columns orthe hurnan race whichquitted the cornmon cradle of mankindby its western side,by the raceof,Shem at least, generally, but it is most deeisively the case here. For,strange to say, although no regulationof the Koran, whieh circurnstance.bould prove it not of Arabie descent, so strong is the prohibition here,that aDY person against whorn the guilt isproved,anymalé, who is dé..linquent by compliance with,the mode dictated by nature,is ipso factodegra(b~d to that de.gree, thathis testimony continues ever aftel' înad;.missible inany court oflaw.No sacred dietateean bernore irnperative,none more: rigidly adhered to, thanthisunac~ountaible;,and of courgelJ"~'aceou.nted-for injunction, ntme,' the failure wherein is cO'Bsidered' in: aiIB:Qre'coue1usive light,. whatever it originally was,:whet.her malldate,' PIt{)..hHî)i~i(}n,or imprecation. Asto,thedog, whowith a1~ hisvÏ'rtu6s'seemstohavebeen usually marked fordisparag~ment,..-a;ninJusticè;however;wecau easily aceoun;t forw.henwerecoUecthe comes forward with votan.tO/PJ/services to mankÏ1ld-t;he allusion conveyed there serves ta hring torecol1ection that t.he nobleranimals, the lion, the eIephant, are retromin­'gent, and both have suppliedmankDllild f\Vtitb ideas of dignity. Hasan,.corl1ary or deduction heeu derived therewith?· Ifso, how farrnoredutlable and extensive is the prejudice, compared w,ith therationale, whicbindeed ishere next tonought, andwhat becomes ofthecalclllations.ofthose who speculate, thattlweradication of anci~nt error is tlle work ofa.day 1The M'Oof's",although their c1imate rnay he called humid, and winters.cold,.dispense wîtk: tires exce.pt forculinary purposes. Indeed willter'isnot the seasotl, to viait thesecountries. 'l'his peopleseem,Uke the

Mooas AND NEGItORS OONSUME MANUPACTURES. 319Spaniard.s,to la,in.a y$]dJ~id~ntstock ofl'adicai haat .duriillg summerto calfry ithem through th,e winter. From itsgl'eater eJevation, thenorthern province here is certain1y less warm than Andalusia. They donot ,hQweverneglec;t, bYia. judicious mode ofdress, to put themsel\Tesetrectuallyà rabriof", theseasons personally. lit iswonderful how few.are. seenina stateofwl\ct.chedneS8, iutPegard to this necessary accommo*dation of miserable.human nature, inso vast a,population. 'Entbusiastsand fanatical mountehanks out of the Ciuestion, theproportioD. of the1raggedpart .of the society to thexest.is far lessthan in any country ofEUfQP.e.. This, however,.relates.to Moorsand Negros, not to Arabs. Thedescriptio..n of.this.article iofnecessit;y will yprovetheyare noniggardlyconsumersi;of llilal>ufactures,·andthatthis consumption is hy nomeans a.despicable 0 bjeetto • !mallufa.cturingnation. 'J!here is however no wherrégreatervarietyseen, intllecourseof llhe day,.whether in 'Juantity orquality, from the ,Arab boy or evenadult inthesumtner solstice starknaked, and of course atzero in the scale, to the 8tately Moor, ·turbanedand dothedfrom head to foot, in summerjn fine muslins, in winter in·thick woollens. The dressof the common people is ofdomestic manufacture,and denominatedal haik: oue long piece of their thinhlanketstuif, a composition somewhat between blauket and serge. As it is thei1*'dress in the day, i.twilllikewise serve them to pass the night in, th

3~O TRAVELS IN AFRlüA.adroit in the management of this so apparently curnbrous dress on borseback,and it rarelydecomposes, unless they choose it, in their most violentexerCIses.When the embassy was leaving the city of Morocco, a young Moor ofa very particùlar and interesting appearance came tosee it depart. , Hedid not obtrude towards the strangers~seeming to sympathize with themunder the mimite thougb various annoyances of their situation. Neitherdid he.mix with t~le crowd of populace.; indeed he hadmuch the appearanceof being a himself, at least to tne aggregation about ,him. Hewas very taIl, about twenty years of age, heardless, with Roman features,and acomple~ion of the deepest black. He was mounted on a veryhandsome borse, with rich caparison, and was .clothed from head to footin muslin of the finést white. ltcould not be discovered who he was(he was yet unmarried, for he did not wear the red cap); but he indicatedin his aspect and behaviour a mind.of a very superior cast to thoseabout him.ln winter, the Moors of "pper station, in short a11 who can afford it,wear, over a loose linen shirt and drawers, a cloth waistcoab of the hussareut, and lo()se wooUen trowsers,: over these a' white silham, or hoodedcloak of a light woollen manufactute, and over that again a more substantialone of broad~cloth. These cloths are usually red or bIue. Ontheir heads they wear a rt:ldpointed cap from the re~a of matrimony,which, wound round with white linen or muslin, constitutes the turban.But in summer, instead of the thick woollen clothing and silham, theywear a baik of fine linen or· muslin, and a lighter silham when occasionreqmres. Linen js of course c.onsiderably used, whell obtainable, in theharem.The different races, which eonstitute the population of thiscountry,lI1aintain their moral habits distinct. A Negro wed~dil1g attractsits share

A NEGRO WÈDDING. 321of spectators, numerously as may be supposed In âcountry and lifewhere people havelittle t6 do save to look around them. Three negresses,covered with what were to them ornaments because they think them so,danced with aIl their graces, and with the clank of metal castanets, to thesullen dub of Hvo drums beaten with crooked sticks.describe the dance.contained.It is not easy toIt certainly was long enough, for aIl the variety itTo our vulgar ideas, that which seemed to approach nearestto it was what the veridical Gulliver records ofthe exhibitions before thecourt of Lilliput,-jumping and creeping.The human race is hereto he sure strangely heterogeneous, so far as the term may he allowed.Egyptians, Vandals, Arabs, Negroes, Jews, Christians, ~fohommedans,Idolaters, Fîre-wo'r'shippers, $abeans,l1ave aH contributed a quota to thepopulation of thls borâerofthe A tHmtic. The politiea! organization 15now strangely chequered. The throne i5 in the possession of an Arahian :yet the Arabs are not the favoured people :-they are, whether it he causeor effect, too, the refractory part of the community.The people of theplains once, now the civic race, the descendants of the cÎtizens of Carthageand subjects of Jugurtha, are the nearest about this Meccan tbrone,the stability whereof is upheld by negroes nom Tombuctoo on the coastof Guinea. 'l'he same man who, if kidnapped at his parent's door andbrought westward, should handle the hoe if sold in a northerly direction,wields the baton ofcommand;and by his talents, steadiness, and bravery,Îs consideréd the pillar of the state. The same female who, if exported.across th~ Atlantic, should daily he lacerated by the stripes of the cowskin,bethe daily victim of the brutality of one sex and malignity of the,other, now sits upon 'a tllfone, becau!e chance pointed her eaptivityhither. ,Many, no doubt, does this saUle chance doom unmeritedly ineither directiQD!It is hardly possible to over-rate the Negro character2T

TRAVEL8 IN AFRICA.bere: but the distinguishing trait i8 steadiness; inflexible fidelity stronglycontrasted with the fickleness and tergiv~rsation of which the history ofthe other nations affords such strong examples. Very few crimes arecommitted amongst them, but their wel1..known character for fidelity hasoften made their friendship superlativelydangerous to its object. '" ANegro has a souI, an't like your honour?' quoth the corporal doubtingly.uThis race has diffused itself considerably here, as may be supposed fromthe length of time during which intercourse hassubsisted. The standingarmy here, as already observed, consists ofNegro youths bought in theirown country, or of the children of Negroes born here. They first appearedin the reign of'Muley Homed, the second successor on the throne to theberoic 1\1 u)ey l\10hommed, who died at the battle of AI-Rasr. .Heconquered Congo and Tombut, and those nations purchased peace byatribute of slaves. Muley Ishmael, however;first ga~e them their·conse...'Iuence in the state. Theil' nurober at one t~me, as is said, under· himamounted to a hundr~d thousand. They were originally settled in variousparts of the country as for instance at Soorlawiçl heretofore described.1\rlost military offices are filled from thisboùy. AlI rise from the ranks ofthe infantry, and being mounted i8 to.them promotion: as indeed thestrongest defined line in life, one of the radical classifications of society isthat of horseman, and he whose means do not reach to mount himself.They constitute the Sultan's body-guard, and aIl castles and garrisons areintrusted to them. They are devout llussulmeu, and are both the curband sJifeguard of the state. )Vhenever our English renegade Tho\nasMyers was asked the' question, What was the pay of the soldiery? hisanswer, somewhat pettishly, alwÇlYs was, "Ali thatthey can rob ~nd ste~I."Very nearly .similar, too, w:ere,his wo~ds in answer to the saroe questionrelative to tqe establishQlent of ,the younger brailches of the royal

family.TlIE SOLDIERY~.-THErRPAY, ETC. 323However, some pay the former certainly have,-poliey woulddemandit,-amounting indeed to somewhat about· a penny* of ourmoney (but this isall relative) perday.aUowance· of corn.precisely struck and paid off.Besides this they receive anIt is probable the cash reckonings are not veryIt is more probable that grumblings arestopped by certainequlvalents in the way, ofconnivance; and that themilitary are Dot severely blamed if they reimburse themselves thebalances due, nor is it very troublesomely inquired into if this be at theexpense of friend or cnemy.Thus the Àlcaid~s statement may probably have ~ome truth atbottom.In8ho,1't, they are aprivileged body.They look extremely weH, beingtaU andst1'aight~J:uadet, their deep jet..blackcomplexion contrastingwith their white drapery, "\vhichis less full than that ofthecivic Moors.Theil' aecoutl'ements, such as belts, scabbards,and·pouches, are red.Uaving neither tactic manipulation Dor thehayonet, it may be sup'"posed thei1' infantry is formidable only to the defenceless property in..cluded.When they first enter as foot-soldiers, they are sQPplied witharms and,ap'pointments.; and, whepadvanced thence into the cavaIry,with a horse.If they lose them,even inaction, they are 'obliged to 'replace them at thei1' OWH expense.It may be judged thus, that theyprefet' the peaceableoccupations of life to coming to close quarterswith an enemy. lt.m.ay he dauhtfuleven how far the observation of" multis ûtiJelJell'l.l/m P isher~iapplicable to this military body, beingso..···24 Buees ·make 1 blanquil, 4 blattqllils ,1 outt.êi:,(a silver eoin.)-8 ounces make 1 hard dollàr.-14 ounces mak~ 1 gold ducat,96•.. 6d,\,,""Btltthe.)~fdiparY mode ofqoplplJtation Is 10 OWlces>to 66, Bd. 0A'fowl costs a blanquil, (two-PCllcêo:fOl'tl·'monêy). Hospitalityisa duty not of severe imposition._A cakeofbread, we~ghing about twopounds and a quarter, Is hQught for three fluces, orouefarthing.t So says my critic.2T2

3~4 'l'RAVELS IN AFRICA.regulated as to pay for ail the honour and gloryout of their OWllpockets.If they possessed the depths of the science, their campaignswould be rather of manœuvre and position tha:n.boups de main.AIl therace are very bold riders, and eonsequently good horsemen. Their

i,('/o'/ dl (~/i/(/,)(', ;/~:"/);((/1.

ALCAID THE ONLY DENOMINATION OF RANK. 325mili ary line, save thatof Alcaid, to which is superadd~dfor distinctionthe number of men commanded, according to ancient oriental'practice. The musket of the cav:alry is five, that of the infantry sixfeet long; they are home-manufactured, very short in the butt, weB ex..ecuted, and will carry a baIl point-blank a hundred-and-seventy yards.The chief exercise of the cavalry is,as has been observed, firing at fullgallop, either in ranks in front, or else singly at a red cap placed upona post, with baIl. In the degree of perfection upon this latter point liesthe criterion of their military science.They will pursue their cavalcadingexercise thus for hours together, to the exhilarating monotony ofa band of their niilitary music. His indeed a martial spectacle, but, likethe myst~riesof Magna Mater ofnId, not to be viewed without some degreeofdabger by the profane. A European may obtain the una~pired·forhonour of madyrdom when his thoughtsare much otherwiseSuch a thing did once happen at Mogodor. An ounce oflead is easily dropped in over the powder; and a good marksman, liberallyendowedwith the spirit offanaticism, insures his place in heavenat very littl~ trouble, merely that of senrling an infidel out of the worldbefore him: "C'est un hommè de moins. :" There is an eneùlyto the faiththe fewer. A good Mussulman nocloubt sbuddersat sucb an idea; butfanaticism, we must r~~ollect, wil) accompanyall religions, as it isfoumled in human nature ; and evcry fanatic, be hiscomplexion whatitmay, would do as bad or '\vors.e.The militia is composed pfl\ioors, people of theêiti~sfor of Arabs.The MoorishmiIitia are )provid~d, accoutred, and\subsisted, whiJe 0110' "'.:.: ,liservice, bythe re~.fpect.i.v.e .... iP .•••·ilaces:'\vh...encethe..y are se.nt;. and each man,... ,,/:,'i:;:,:;:i ,' ..:;y, . . : ," .. 'on going home, is prescfJ:)ted from the Sultan with either money orclothing,as a kind of free gift or bounty;'Vhen they have served a. limited lime, the militia-men are relieved by fresh drafts from their

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.towns ordistricts. These people serve on horseback. Theya:re:conl:­manded by alcaids appointed by the Sultan, and this(\)ffi·cehas annexedtoit a judicial power. The Arab militia receive neitlIer paynul' gratification, and their tribe isobllged to subsist them, the Sultalilfinding nothing but tents. They skirmish in small bodies, withfire·armsonly, without collecting or closing. Each district has its distinctivestandard, but the number of men annexed to a standard i5 not defi;.nite. On the whole, the military organization of this country is farfrom despicable.The Arabs thus, itseems, are destined Lere to hard treatment, andvery capable they seem of enduring it. They are indeed an extraordiuarypeople. Theil' columns, or wandererl' from them, perv.~é~i~d thisextreme skirt of Africa both by the east and by the south, :fithemselves as rovers in the sixth, but exhibiting themselvquerors in the seventh century. They now U\,;I.,UW;straits ofofCIsm Sulbs{~Qlle[ltlJ7,Islamismcountry, pr()D~lOJJ

PATERNALGOVERNMENT OP THE SBEIKS. 327of the;ir l'llthlessanirnosities even hither, with that pertinacity and sanguinaryvengeance which fanatiçism alone can inspire; and to thern are,aS observed, to beascribed thosestruggles ~ already recited, which,under v~#rious denominations and party designations, 80 long desolatedthis country. In consideringthese, however, it should be kept in viewhow the sectarian spirit became epidernic here locally, by districts.During aIl this tirne conquest, arts, and sciences, were in progress ofdiffusion, by this very people, throughout Spain.This nation, whichfollowed the standards of itscaliphs westward, in tribes, each under asheik, preserves its genealogies traditionally. The nurnbers of thesetribes respectively, are very indefinite. Each tribe is distinguished bya sortof;patronymic, if the term is allowabJe, for one is styled WillidiJeddi0~h~ children of the goat! The sheiks govern paternaJJy, andendeavonras much as possible to defeat and thwart the daims ofgovernmeIlt upon their tribes.But the governrnent on the other hand,aware of and calculating upon this premeditated delinquency, takescare toanticipate, and surcharges at dnce to double purpose, punish..ment aswcU as taxation, and the latter is frequently not obtained withoutbloo·dshed. Each camphas itsrespective sheik. Butthe sheik ofthe tribeisentitled El Kibir, .. thelJreatsheik.Theil' camps here are-1< In the eighth and ninth century (during which period old Fez was foùnded) between (theOmmiades as they are llamed from love of confusion) the Moiadi and the (Marabous) Moravedi,instructors and disciples; whfch r indeed appear to haye speedily qualified themselves toenter the Iists of competition r 'masters in l101emic theology and disputation,

TRAVELS IN AFR ICA.usually composed of from thirty to forty tents, and always that we saw rsave in one instance of three concentric lines, in a circ1e, with thesheik's tent in the centre.Theil' tents are the labour of the hands ofthe family, the materials are plucked from the backs of their cattle(camel's hair), eked out with palm-tree fibres of bark.They are of avery dark-brown colauy, inconveniently 10w, without side walls, merelya cover from the sun and dews for the family, horse-furniture, arms,and a few cooking utensils.Theil' numerous herds of cattle (and noblecaule theyare of each kind) are tended, out, by men and boys duringthe day, and driven within the eirde of tents at night.They çonsistof every descriptlon,-camds, dromedaries, bovine, sheep, goats, andhorses.Bere in the camp they are guarded by a multitude of vigilantand obstreperous dogs everon the watch, and barking.. Of th.eir stra\vis usually made, to each tent, a hive, for it cannot be more preciselydepicted or described. It is usually about nine feethigh, and,ê wouldbe a palace for human residence eompared with their comfol:tl~~stents.Theil' youFlg horses ave perfectly domestic-ated, and, remain ip am:d aboutthe camp.'Flle men of this race aresmootb, that is, have littlehair Oi};their faces· Or bodies, and are thug, as in other respeets, a contraist withthe Moors.They are of a deep coppel' colour; their ears projèd, andare elevated; and malignity, acuteness, ferocity, and distrust, mark theircountenances, the features whereof are regular, and in the smaH proportion;but, even at best, ever convey what the }'rench tefm the aircaustique.Such is the general descriptiGn.:auJinthe intercourse witha stranger, about whom they may take and feel an iriterest, that is, tocajole or to wrong, the countenance beconiles suffused with dIe conciliatorypretext of the tiger when approaching the abject of bis fangs notyet within their reach. The women grow perfect Gorgons tbeyadvancein life, although the girls at an early age are beautiful.

":.'::~~~~" "---.~"~ ""~~.-~--:::.""~ :;,~.""-Cc~""--- -

Manthe 060n, that, pr«)DclDlOE THE .ARABS. 329of circumstances ;-the moral vices of the Arab aredefects of his government: the physical depravaexpo:sUI'eto the vicissitudes of the climate hisfault than the other.anced in this world,It i5 too muchBut certain it is,ankind has no merit to claim, andlORt by it are often the least blameandpllncturcd over the faces1\I100rs or Brebers, presentas indicating a nearly radical dindingto connect the Arab race with Eastghest authorities have hitherto been inclinedto allow. The dress of an Arab famil seanty, and altogether conveysthe appearaThe allotment 0hy itserhaps of tnegligenc~and:poverty.soil is done by'the sheiks; the migration thenceWhen they march, the women sit in aof the camel; the younger aniandso forth, are allotted theirThe fowl5, whose forecast andof the menage in duesettle:m«mt wherevcr a projectingof the. quadruped them a promise ofare a smallbreed: they have one herewith d the appearance of horns. Thus,guardek with their muskets re$ted acrosstheir putheir herds, they are met in theirmigrations. Cuscusu, clou taken indiscriminately from theirherds, hutterprocured by shaking in a skin, the hail' inwards, and estecIIledin proportion as it is rancid, dough baked on a fiat iron (called2 u

330 TRAVELS INAFRICA.in some countrÎes a griddJe) over embers, hoôèj and .dates, COmposetheÏr ordinaryfood, save when a beast dies a natural death;or iher c'anshoot an antelope, whieh- animàl, ineonsideration .with itshabits,isnumerous here,but very slly from natura! dispositiôl!andits manyenemIes. Caution however must give way to neeessity, and if tomesto the wells at dawn of day to drink; and then the Arabs occasionallyshoot one. They have a way oftaking out thecarcas~~~tire,t.brqughanincision of not more than a few iuches lou.git~\·'th~~~i;~/3~(thebelly. These people have a.lwaysa bowl which,thewomeu present to sucb as visit tbeireamps,anoffering to. the manes ofhospitality. Theyhowever deign to accept reimbursement*. The menaremost dexterous thieves, and on the wateb for politieal concussion,on whieh event they immediately break out iuto open warfare withwhatever of a eompensatory n~ture cornes within t~€1ir reaeb. Saadi'Homed has them, however, now in great subjeetio ll , Still, notwithstanding,taxation and declaration of war are.~ith·them syniIlYmpuSterms; and the following is the fiscal~y~'~em 9ftheempire, to w~ich thispeople eontributes so considerably,of.the col...lection. Taxes are paid in kind, and are one-tenthof grain onetwentiethof cattle, besides fines leviedon districts where havebeen committed, and the guilty not produced for.justice.Perhapssomething is to be said in extenuation .of the procedurehere~ whereasin nations presuming upon a greater civilisation, and stiJl recurIing toit,it is left without excuse.It ls a faet that frequently oecurs, that anArab seeing a stranger wandering from his escortwill c.ali tqt~e latter"to warn the person they have in charge;andthis the Arab docs. from anapprehension that his fellows might, by sorne act of uilgovernable atr€>-'* The savages in America are extremely hospitable, without even the smallest idet\' of reimburse.ment.

TAXESAMONG THE ARtABS.33Jcity, subject the cominunity to the inconvenience of the punishment~bove related. It. is but candid to put each side of the case intolight.'fo collect the revenueaa above stated, anAlcaid is sent with a considerable.force taa districbannuaIly; and while upon this service, he.arid his troops a}~eJllaintained,by,thepeople to whom they are sent, inpfuvisionsandforage,whopay six blanquils a-day to each soldier.This,. ofcourse makes itthe interest of the districttopay at Jeast whatis justly due, and therehy get :ridof these burthensome inmates of col..;leètorsas spe.e.dily as .possible. But that of the officers and soldiersrUlls.in acounterdirectioq,. and tellsthem, that the longer final settle..melit,is,(1eferred,:the better for. th.cm.Hence arises violence on the partofthêlatter to excite exàsperatioh on that of the former, unti] driveninto somewhat tbatmay be construed resistance and reported Tebellion.The soldiery avail themselves ofthat pretence, and seize aIl they haveforgovermnent andt}lemselves, for the revenue and trouble of ooHeo-,.tion. Certainly the union of the judicial military and fiscal offices isa combinationmost formidable to property at large. Thus the Tangiel'squadron (of cavalry) now here, and with which the British missionis toreturn,had lately lost two imen and four horses in action with the1\.rab8 of Sus, sixhundred miles. from their home, before they couldfulfil the object whereon they were sent-.the levy of the taxes :andatlength, 'after a resistance of two months, they droveaway aIl the cattleand rahsaièked the matamores (subterraneous granaries hereafter to bedescrihed)·.of the: clistrict.Although. a111~rah wH] fightagainst an Arab as if he were of a differen.tbelief ontbe sùbject ofreligion, and with aU theacharrtement, too,of'wllich near néighbourhoodstlpplies fllel to kindle the sacred Bame,no dependence can he placed npon the .militia of a. vicinity for thecollection o'f revenue.For in thi5 case the community ofinterest cries2u2

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.out too loud]y and immediately in favour of the ties of society; thekindIiest intercou'rse and strongest liaisons instjlntly lake place,forgiveness and oblivion to aH past wrongs.are sent hereupon from the north to the south,âhdFor ,thisrêasonmutual retaliatiuns and thehroodings of revengè êdmé'in aidexecution of the ordinances of state.versii, wfiet€~bVAnd if the'\vork 'benot pel'·formed con amore, it is done to equally powerful effect*.too of Ishmael's recited poliey is yet extantin tnell'fdeess.- Sueh are the different nations, or rather races;!whichfoccupyvast weIl situated genial and fertile country, teemingwith proand life, and possèssing every climate (an epitome of nature,within itself, the Brebers not included yet in the account.1stances considered, the lines of demarcation in mankind, moralphysical, are very definite.The greatest intermixture is thatNegro with the1\tloor, which has produce(\ mulatos~~eztizos,qlJart~rons~and aIl the shades of demarcation-gradationisarlinvidious term~rrhe blaék dye is preferred for the harems; But théltamilies oftwdofthesons of Noah at least, however met here, are perfectlYdistingUishable.Mount Atlas, the companion ofour route, continueshere at 1\1:oroccothe most interesting object of our eyes. His nebulous region is llO\V, ,du.ring the SUIllmer solstice, From sun-seta blaze of lightrling and ele~étlrfélf;litRuid.The respectable and veridical Doctor8'haw,. it ismore obvious, has must unintentionallydiffused very erroneothe subject of this chain of mountains.The highest'peakseast of this place, where it appears by the mapsto. fonn all,;,a.lg1e.}'rom the manner in which it advanceson the eye,>itis hardly Pd:SS~iJb'lè... Chenier gives a list of the tribes, nominalIy. The number or males paying c~pitand. of cqurse of thè age of fifteen and upwards, in the plain df Fe~fis calculatcd at til,eth~>usand; in the plain of Morocco, at one hUJ.ldred. thousand: a llopulati6ô-t \Î'0millions at lcast, evlisions included. . '

~~~,'-.;:,

MOUNT ATLAS. 333tn cùnceive the distance to be, as computed, eighty miles from the Mogodorroad. It is however visible, they say, seventy leagues out at sea.Truly we see not why dissertation should offend, but it is the last sinof that description which thisvenerable ruler ofthe atmosphere shaH besought to shelter and proteet. Like Louis the Fourteenth, he boasts indeedof being the proteetor ofunfortunatelcings : such, history tells us,has more than once been the case. One ofthe derivations ofthe nameflows from the relative, A !tils, Snow"'. The great king seems to be apersonification of the mountain. This system, of personification pervadesaH the tradition of antiquity. It will not be attempted here toacc6nhtf6rthat apathy wherewith sorne are gifted, and enabled therebyto withstand the impressions'conveyed by thesesublime monumentsof the struggles of nature; but the precedent will not be acted upon inthe present case.. Atlas, too, which it is not the lot of many to seehere inhis glory, is now about to be lost sight of for ever. This is aconsideration which induces the mind to pondereThe seat of Jove, resting upon the Nile, and extending by the Canariestfar into the Western Ocean, inhabited by a primitive race ofmen, here in ils vicinity to Morocco, fertilizes, or at least presents'.li Ten~riffe, llotwithstânding its ancient denomination of Nivaria, does not reach the level ofperpetuaI snow. !tg Îleight has becll acctU'ately measured, rate it at twelve thousalld feet; ex pedeHerculem-:'Applyt4isW Atlas.t At the foot of Atlas, al~d opposite to the Callary Islands, is the road-stead of seven wells, towhichconsiderable importancêappears.to he (deservedly) annexed.-The route of the Odyssey incIuclesthese islands, the true Ht'sperides ofHe~iod,-so andeut is nautieal enterprise l The quinceis the saered fruit whieh Wall to reward it. How much idea is iuvolved here !-The quil1ce sacredto Venus, and why? Was it from its peeuliarity of requirillg impendcncy over water, to blossom,and consequently produce? Few of the arcana of Naturé were really unknown to the ancieuts. IgnoranCecould uot thell be kept in countenance by scoffing. What eomplicated etymological deductionspresent themselves in this direction! But soJa!~ plastic, and nautical ideas have suppliedthe basis of nearly ail fable.

334 TRAVELS IN AE'RICA.,means,were theyavailed of, of fertilizing, aH the face of Nature to thevery verge of the salt water.the foot ofthe mO\ultain from this town.Natufe and tradition are here connected !curately deflnedwhat is the foot of the mountain.SOIije count fifteen, sorne thirty miles to'Vhat important points inTt does not seem to be ac.,.plain is ;;tU Olle continuous garden, irrigated by the stream~13uJthe,interveningwhi(;h descendfrom the vaporous region, increa,~ed in ~pringby ,the melting ofthe summer snows. Theskirting train of hiJls, which ~very. wh~rei fialiksa great chain of mountaills,is perfectly clistinguisha.bJe from hence, withan their fe;;ttQres,py oQrgIasses, after rain, or probably when hydrogenprevails in the atmosphere; but at other times it is completely lost inthe vapoul' and mirage which prevails neal' the surface of the earth.These bills, which are cupola-shaped, butinters~cted by very. deep perpendicularfissQres, are clothed with a bright ~erdure ;;tpparently of thefinest grass; but tlleir interior, whell exposed, shows itself forrueci of4'ed metallic tinged earth, or grave!. The varieties of clirn;;tte heremustpresent a rich harv.est to the sickle of the botanist, containing within aday's walk aIl the climates from the tropical to the polar circle; andthis too witbin a few clays' ride of a sea-port town frequented by Europeans.Surely his majesty of l\lorocco could be induced to countenancea botallical incursion!The Sultan was at this day by no meansdisinclined to it, but subalterns were. As to the danger intirnated frompeople who had never seen a Christian, it is by no means improbablethat the chief danger the latter might incur, would be the result of beingseen in company'with a Moor. And without the latter, and a costlycompany ofthem too, fuur hundred dolJars theyare rated al, the attemptwould not he permitted. The mountaineers include aIl foreigners uncie'l'one general name-Romans. They interest, as. heing the tlJost unlllixedblood DOW extant of the race of Ham. Those we happened to see were

well grown and fOl'tTIedACCOUNT' OF THE l\10UNTAINEERS. 335mep, with the features light, curled beards,and fair (reckled complexions of the temperate c1imates of Europe.rr:beyspoke a language totally unintelligible to the 1\Ioors~.Thomas Myers, had tTIarri~da \Voman from that country, and had residedthere ft·equently.Our Alcaid,His details upon the subject were ample and;minute.'fhe women are èonsidered beauties throughout these countries;but taste hefe IS notonly whimsicaI, but contradictory;........and degu6­tibus.,&c.-The mountain is traversable by various passes. It is saidthatthe easiest route is by Fez, and that from this place it occupies threedaysto!reaèh the south-east opening.Probably it isfifty miles across.......It mi:ght:he thoughtthat the ardour of botany should have induced'8()fflÎ}eof!the votaries oftha:tscience to explore in a direction whi@h promisessnch richreturns. .And' assurèdly toa fossllist these tracts mustpresent matter of the highest interest,and iriterest l'Ising "\Vith the scale·!.hisrese~rchesat theexpenseofanother.Science is never ungrateful.extend u"pon.·But it is Ilot liberalto enhance one science·Both are worthy of our fulÎest. devotion~,The naturalist,"His life exempt from public haunts,Finas tongues in trees, books in the running brooks"Sermons in stones, and good in every thing."SOtTIe people say that the mountaineers are by no means 80 inimicalito Christian!; as the Môors would represent them to be.To the Moorishgovernment they are deêidedly so, from a very natural principle,-the'feelingthemselvesmuch better without it. As' to the local circum.stances,some mention the snowy region as occupying two thitds ofAtlas: but this Jiîustmëan of latitude, not elevation ; and this is saidto be the case in summer. In winter the cold is extreme, and the roads*'For Shellu, see'Chellier's Vocabulary.

336 TRAVEJ... S INAFRICA.or ways impassable.Perhaps, to many, snch a picture of the interiOl'of Africa is somewhat out of the orditmry train of ideas.proves that we do not yet kno\v quite enough of that country.If it be, itIn thewinter season, the mountaineers, tme Troglodytes*, lodge themselvesand theil' herds in caves, keeping aB warm hy great, fires; they proba-"bly have an ample supply of timber. They till the eal'th, and' Taise cornenough for their own consumption, commencing their labours when the,return of the sun invites them back from t.lleir caves to their villages.'Vho can hesitate in placing the solar ritual and astronomical invetSti~gation among the first impressions and, researches of the hmnan mincI ?'Vhere should man receive their strongest impressions but in such a situationas this? Consequently such are the primitive moral impressionsof the Troglodyte of Africa and the hcrdsman ofScythia. (Thenaviga-,tor,timidly at first venturing from cape to cape, explored in his way,and aIl combined to l'aise the superstructure of fable.) The solar ritualwas unqucstionably the first that would present itselfto the senses. Themind must be enlightencd at least by refiection, ifnot by revelation, toobtain a glimpse of a more just, but more abstracted one.-These modernTroglodyteshere heingunder little subjection to the general government,and having little or none amongst themselves, the tract theyoccupy is of course a continualscene of petty warfare betwecn the adjacentvillages, each np doubt containing withio its own bosom theseeds of concussion, Pompeys and Cœsars for within, Alexanders foroutside work, and consequent bloodshed; for whichreason, no manhere ventures out Qf his dweJling unarmed.and a crooked dagger.Theil' arms are a musketft is probable in theiT manners they cons.iderablyresemble the Druses of Lebanon: and son:lUch i~man subservient:il< Divest the giant Polyphemus ofbis poeti~l oruameuts, and what is he but a plain Troglodyte?

'l'HBl:lt HOSPIT ALITY. 331to jhis·;crtoulîlstâïl~es, probably, mutatis mutandis, -suell arc the moralhabits ·ôfallmountaineers.But to proceedwith the descriptions given' by those who knowthem bast. Notwithstanding their ferocious habits, which, if theyhe truly depicted, are imposed upon them by their state of anar:"chical society, they carry hospitality to an extreme.Theil' warfareis carried on for many days at a lime, probably is terminated only,like greater ones, by the want of ammunition; the cessation of themeàns, and not of the causes, is what draws it to a conclusion. Brissonsays, that a considerable manufacture of gunpowder, but of weak qua- .1îtY'ii e~t~~lished atGuaudnum*. And this place, which he describesaso~ con~iderab~e trade, is probably the emporium of the mountains.In 'regard to the hospitality of the natives, onr·informants here acquaintus, thatthe arrivaI of a stranger amongst them, in theheat of theirfiercêst warfare, is ,a signal of truce; and that a whitefhig is hung out,and peace subsists until he has passed through, \vhereupon the confiieti8 renewed.Probably dispute and fighting, contest and eonfiiet, appl'oximateto id'entification in the true neighbourly manner. Could goodinclination be at aIl times and in aIl places ashappily carried into effi~ct,how often would it happcn at home in Europe ! vVhat then IStllere'to ma.k~thisimprobablehere?}\fI this manufacture of ammu­111tlon,t6Q~111ust have sorne vent; If;iHhwever,a pOOl' traveneri~sit dmvnupon the sifêps Of mostruedoor, he bas no occasion to solieit, bis ap-,!Ii Ail important etymology ;-forthe see Lah()rde's map. Saugnier was wrecked in latiyear!(1184)iJlt:Hssonwas wredlred in latitt1de~HP. Ne fuakes the observat~

338 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.pearance as what he is suffices; it is considered a joint caU upon thesister virtues, Peace as wellas Charity ~ truce takes place during bisstay, (he is the bird of happy omen,) and heis supplied withprovisionswhen he thinks proper to pursue his journey.we may presume, cry with pious Richard,Cf •••••• Now,'Vhereupon the parties,Doctors, to our holy work again."The remains of Christianity, l'uins of conventsand,of cells, areyet extant,as it is said. But is it conceivable that Vandal conquest couldhave reached, or aoy eupidity haveexcited, thus far? If the learnedbe, as IS the case, constantly misled on such points, what must the effectof appearances amount to on the shallow and ignorant?Thesevestiges are of the most remote antiquity, possibly ; and as to the allegedspurious Christiauity, it may be a confusion of ideas derived from theestablishment here of the creed of Moseilama, the qontemporary ofMobommed, which denies the infallihility of the latter, as weIL as thedivine spirit in the family descent of the Xerifis, and at the head ofwhich belief is its independent Imaun, resideot near Cape N um, in afertile and well.watered district. The diffusion of this term Num, inGuaudnum, river; Vellidi N um, people; and other instances, militatesagainst the Portuguese derivation affixed in the style of Swift to thispart of the coast. Guaud is Arabic, oot endemial. Num is rooted inthe S_cythian, and ever çonveys a sacred import. Brisson passed severaldays in the city of Guaudnum ~and his aecount is of interest, as it coïncidesidenticaHy, in particulars, witb what the British embassy wasenabled to pick up as ta the people of theinterior part ofthis chain, atthe same period at which Brisson ",rites; both in their coincidenceestablishing the faet of the 9rigiual and primitive state of manners,which pervade throughout, and which seem to depict therftldiments of

TRADE, MANnFACTURJt~, COMMERCE. 339CIVIC life as ariginally exhibited in Palestine, and subsequently inGreece. The houses of Guaudnum are claustra. Such we see here.Literally, a man's llOuse th~reis his castle. He does not, howevcr, mentionthe prevalence of the belligerent disposition elsewhere 80 predominant,butwhich indeed is an amusement somewhat incompatible withthenecessary intercourse of a trading place.guarded bya number of fierce dogs.Each of these castIes isThey are, too, ,deptJts of manufactures;and a gréat trade is driven thence byregular days of sale withthe hamlets of the interior of the range of mountains, more particularlyby Jewishmerchants, one of whou) is mcntioned with most respectabletraitsofeharacter.. It 'is probable that the vicinity of Santa Cruz tothis\tract. was.a principal cause of the former being shut as an entreptJt()f commerce, the mountainous tractbeing thought quite neal' enoughto pommunication with strangers at Mogodor, eight days journey. Thesepeopleallege that the Sultan's mother was born aplOng them.It ishardly probable that the orthodox, the famiJyof the Ptophet himself,would have gone amongheretics to look for a wife.If such a spirit ofCOmmerce reign~if the mercantile spirit of :rvfarseiJles were alive to theswéets of it, surely it is worthy the attention of British enterprise. Al.though at the western extremity bellum intet"llec/num is not an establisbedintercourse of.Jife, yet that compliauce with custom, whichordinarydecoTum enjoins, requires tl1at eve..y man should always goanned.' 'fhe s.tate tQO of the interior may b~ calculated fl'mIl the circUn1stance,that the fair and' Iawful profits of trade throughout thesedistricts il) l'at~d at foul'hundred to a unît.. Of course the risk cannothc inconsid~ra.ble, probably;is beyond itlsuranc~;No business, in thecOlumercial way at least, is done on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays.Here are two races of men; a primitive domiciliated people dwellingin hamlets and castIes on the summits and in the fastoesses of hills, and2x2

340 TltAVEL8 IN AFRICA.cultivating the sail by a succession of liarvests annually, the first ofwhich is l'eaped in April; and for aIl which Naturefertilizes thesoibbya l'ainy season of tluee month8: also an Arah race, whichhasobtruded,introducing their sectarianism, and w'hich has abandonedprimitiveha­1}its to adopt civic life.But this Jast people, however, havetaken heredue care ever to keep open their retreat from any political wrong,which no situation can reconcile them to, intô the Desert.Thus theyare invincible: and they receive with open arms aH fugitives ··of theÏrrace from Morocco, having at this ti(l[le with them, to gîvethe:tott tQthe measure, the SultaI\s son, Muley Abdarahman,às his brother, MuleyAzry, is on the other side with the Arab plunderers.But this peoplehere, taken generally, hardly acknowledgesany sovereignty; theirçities or cOUllllunities being repu blican, and claiming independency,and being only subject in spirituals to the Imaun* of Num.Chiersare elected by them, and only for the purpose of war. In thetowns, atthe schools, the children teacb eaeh other.The people ofiÎfabblfiMdrange in the plain a hlHldred miles south ofCape Num. Nurnhers probablyjoined them from :MOfocco,on theacccssion.of the Xeriff's of Tafilet.ft is probable that subjeclion, here, is in a more undefined conditiontban even the topographical borders ofthestate themselves.Spaniards (four who had been ransomed) shipwrecked during the codfishery, on that coast, to which they had come From theCanaryIslands,and who were atMogodor inAprillast, stated, that the Arab sheiks,from wbom the Sultan hadransomed them, acknôwle

.TOPOGRAPHY• 341. they compound .by a present. According to the account of these red~~medcaptives,the Arabs, \Vith whom they \Vere, traded intetmediatelytoBarbary and NegroJand, having vast numbers of cattle, whichthey barterwith the Negroes for gums, astrich-feathers, gold, and-childrenIso rootedisihe abuse in its inveteracy!Although the Frenchadventure:r recommends to his Government to penetrate Africa by Morocca,certain prospects to that effecthere are notdestitute of hope.Why rnight notsecurity of intercourse he taugbt by interest? Fromthe COllcurft:mce orevery account, the invisible intercourse trade 15 stillcarriedoà in the interidr.ÂsstOtopogr:aphic matter, so fal,' as relates to Sus or Guzzula*,the south of Atlas fit his western hand (Geryon) Cape Ger, a di;.lapidated towu presents itself as an abject of inquiry. . Snch too.are the alluvial fragment:s in the rnountains, two days journey inland,Horth of Cape Bojadort·; (how Scythia presents itself everywhere 1) similar to what Mr.Browne observed on the opposite side ofthis continent. Atlas soared above the puny Neptunian invasion whichswt~ptawayorganized nature.Hisface is here cornposed of cliff andnarrow defiles, covered below with woods, above with snow.(The intervenillgnebulolls. n~gion, sogrand a feature of a mountain of this~cale, reigns in a vertical direction of near1y six thousand feet.) Tothe al1Cienthist()ryo.f nHUlkind, two. clues, independent of record,: andnot Hable to its falsifications, are extant; language::: and cllstomsl})orein vetel·~t~lY>~1l4.uner~fl~!ç(~b1y implapted than language itself... Gretulia. See Virg.1En. iv. al"o Luèan. These countries posses$l.ldmore interest with the~ncients th~ntl,J~y dpi~.IIl()de~n~ax~. The actiOl~softhe world has fallenin directions presentingmore convenience, and it has not yet power to occupy the whole of the field.t Stentor-the Roarer. Honorifically applied. .The idea is deriverl from the tiger.t " Aye, but," say our classical philologistil, " thespellings do not agree"-(Laus Dea bonè§intelliga)-although the formation of language, and cOllsequently its consonancies, preceded the ru­§ Let flOt criticism ascribe-meo periculo-here. The autbor has the œgis of Holofernes to shelter llÎm hy.

34~ TRAVEl..S IN AFRICA.Morocco, the city, and }'ez, are both entrepfJts of Tafilet.Tbe communicationswith this country, the ancient Sugulme~sa, are very important.The city of thename Tafilet is, by the route of the.caravans,twenty daysjourney from Morocco, across, and four hundredmiles fromthe foot of, Mount Atlas. And when tradehas reached 'l'afilet, there1sa further trajet to the utmost point in the interior, where is TUE GRAN]):M ART; and during this, cruel privations are endure&. TafUet,besidesHs intercourse in that direction, sends tobaccoand dates to (Juinea, inexchange for gold-dust. But saltis the chiefartidewbiéÇ'bthat country(TafiIet) receives from Morocco. The Tafilet caravans, in tl~eirway,too, to Guinea, experience dreadful hardships. A proof of the value ofthis trade is, that the Sultan has taken it a1l into bis own l)ands. ThecaraV'an this year consisted of fourteen hundred camels.Tbese caravansare always commanded and attended bX MooTs of distinction.diments of orthography.-It is by literature thatlanguages ha.ve varied, sinee thegreat schi!il1l1 in .thli!plain of Shinar. The terll1 BREBER designates the population of the North of Atlas, and is a derivativeofthe radical BER, signifying' mountainous tract:' whence, with the ancients"the giant Bta­GION, for thus they personified and fa!mlated their extensive .geographical knowledge. Hence, too,ail wc hear of OISSEEN (Ossian)-a connexion of geography and personifieation. The primitiveScythian idea of the universe is that of a giant, whose skull forms the heavens. Subsequently, tl10sewho took upon themselves the trouble of thinking for mankind ramified from this idea, (for thenumber of these mental prineipia is comparativeiy few indeed,) and, as Juliet would fain do witb herRomeo, cut this giant into individllals, (with more success than Scrihlerus with his shollider ofmutton,) and implanted them, not as constellations in the face of heaven, but as landmarks, conspicuoustopo~aphic designations, on the face of earth. Hence the figure these personag~s exhibitin fable, or mythology l;lS8ome caU it. Mountaineer and Shepherd have a close moral connexion.No wonder then, that the sounds which express them should heanalogous. 'l'bus. wc :tind,diffused throughout language at large, the terms Berg, berger, u,·e!Jis. Domicilium or clousl1'U11i isthe sense which rules the term. The SHELLU occupY the south of this range (Mas-Sylla wâs theterritory of Syphax). The language of this last-mentioned p~ople isworthy ofclose attention, andshould be collated with the Breber. They may be identified .with the Psylli of Lihya, who wereserpent-tamers. Takanarite is the name in Shellu for a certain fruit, the prodl\ct of the CanatyIslands.. Closer investigation lilight give the systell) of deriving ancient language$ from 'théntodern)â blow her~.

T AFILET AND ITS PRODUCE. 343They takewith them blankets of the manufacture of.Fez, tobacco, andsaIt. Theil" great return is in the human traffie-boys and girls! Theil'chief suffering is in the want .ofwater. According to the accounts of personsbest acquainted with Tafilet, theproduct of that country is ehieflydates, the revenue itself being paid in this article. of produce. The Sultanhas,.in one plantation, thirty thousand date-bearing palrnslt mllsthe supposed the produce of a tree is very considerable, for this numberdoes not sound 80 enormous for a royal apanage.A plantation of thiskind is spoken of as an adequate provision for a younger branch of theroyal famil:r. It seems by the description a happy country. AU thosewho have visited itconside~ itas s\lch.This tree affords here aIl thatis nècessary for thelife of man . or beast, save one. Ofwater Nature.has.heen somewhat scanty, as may be supposed by the.latitude and loqalface.The date approaches the nearest of any thing we know to whatthe ancients have bequeathed to us of the lotus.The people ofTafiletlive, in fortified towns ofabout four hundred families in each, on dates,and the milk of their camels. Deer and ostriches are numerous. Thecountry is a flat plain; what is not under trees is bare sand. Little cornis grown comparatively, and what 1S produced is sown by the bank ofaswe.1ling riv~r.was nrst plant~.d.Such was the situation when the germ of agricultureMan scattered the grain on the mud left by the recedingeurrent, and it grewl rrhe resultstimulated to greater efforts; andplentiful harvests are now reaped almost in the teeth of Nature, extortedfrom her most unpromising mot>ds.inte.nse, and. it never rains.The heat of the c1imate i8Such a climate combined with such a soil,constitutes a situation adapted aJone to the palm-tree, the came], andthe ostrich.But man, às lord of the creation, adapts himself to, aU.Sueh'was thep,imary ordination.one of the first class of m~gnitude,of the old world.The river mentioned isdescribed asIts name implies

344 TRAVE.LS IN AFRICA.the gullet;given it by reason of a part of its course being" fotcedtbrough a narrow rocky pass in a mountain, or between two mountain8~It overflows annually by the thawing of the snows ofAtlas, enrichingthé lands which border it; and this Îl).undation is celebrated by thenatives with great rejoicing, music, and dancing.Such i8 the aecount of officersand other8, observing and commum..cati"fé men, who have visited and resided there on business or duty.They added, in their communications \vHhus,that the mountainousregion (Atlas) between the plains of Morocco. :and Tatilet, tô a vast ex..tent, was ihtenselycold ; and that south of this, but far in the interio1'",was an independentnation, a very brave people, honorificaHy, or nic'"natned by the Moors, The Sons of Lions, who are not black, and whosereligion is idolatry.'~hey live by hunting wild animaIs, and on themilk of their cameI8, of which .they have great numbers, not tilling theearth.for distinction.They go naked, save à piece of bIne clotl1 worn by the chief

345it alludesto the

!rRAVE,LS IN APRICA.bably attachable no where 'particularlJ. If none were satisfied., itis apresumption that equilibrium of interests was preserved. Various and.obvious· reasons .debar full discussion uponsuch points, even at a pe­·riod, DOW soremote, that the feelin.~ of individuals are no longer ip,danger of bcing wounded, could, as,is by nomeans the case, any mat..te.r of disparagement be disclosed, Still there was a time when obvious,motives must have debarred aIl freedom e:ven of aUusion to the subject.To .compensate any disappointment on :the one hand, due carewas taken to putina strong light"en r'1Janc~,th,tothers(lneaningthesplendid Spanish mission) haà failed equaUy in their object; 50 that inshort the equilibJ'ium of disappointment, atleast, was duly preserved.Sufficient care was also taken on the subject ofthe feelings: for a verysummary concilium, abeundi (hint to depart) completely precluded aIlbrooding over the disappointmentthatmi.ght b~ e~pectedtp precy nponthe spirits. And as rejoiilder is totaHy contrary to court etiquette.,:nothing was to be done but to ,prepare for rcturnhomewardl..END OF THE FIRST·VOLU'M'E..

RAVELSEUROPE A,NDIN'AFRICA..VOL.II.

TRAVELSI~EUROPE AND AFRICA.ROUTE FROM THE CITY OF MOROCCO TO TANGlER.ON the 27tb of May the embassy quitted the quiet and seclusion ofthe gardens of Mùrocco, in 'Consequence ofa summary notice from theSultan to that effect; and set out in the afternmm upon a journey ofthree hundred and fifty miles, to Tangier, under anescort of two hundredand fiftycavalry militia-men, commanded by the military alcaidof that place.These troops had been, conjointly with others, levyingcontributions in Getulia for two years preceding, and now were re..turning to their homes, a few men and horses 10st in action, short oftheir original numbers.AIl tliings being arranged as weIl as theshortness of the' time p~rmitted,the escort being duly prepared, and baggage loaded, our bodyproceeded through a great extent of ground within the wans of Mol'DeCO,of varying surface as heretofore described, until 'it reaohed theplace of execution; ,~here, as it unluckilyhappened, a large party ofhorsemen was cavalcading, aecording to their custom, in celebration ofa wedding; and a prodigious number of spectators aggregated, eithergrouped in this vast area, or perched, like the storks, on the bl~nkVOL. II. Bwalls

and house-tops.TRAVELS IN AFRICA.The carrying off the fair Melisendra From Saragossaby Don Gayferos did not excite ,agrea,ter ~proarin the Moorish race! " .. '~'.' ,l,:;,,'there, thao did the departure of the Cbristians from Morocco amongthis vast rabble their descendants, this concourse of the gens désœuvrésof ~lorocco:but unfortunately the Christian fugitives had here no DonQuixote to interpose his powerful arm in their defence, as was done,. '.' .. >1once on the other occasion. 'Vhen the attack began, onralcaid, \,,'hohad grown old in the service, and who had blood in his eye, was by nomeans inclined to spare himself invaders, as he showed. Ourwhole number, mounted, exceeded three hundred; but a universal shoutbeing set uPi~~the n]oQon(~u.X ,,!ppearançe, and eyery. missile article,iM:' .. 'i ...,c' •.: .....,' ".' .. .,. .\ ......." .. ..being immediately laid hands on by them and showered on us, ourwhofe body was discoplposed and di~persedinaninstant. Evening wasno~ Rlosing, glqOP1Yi~lldiqclined to,rain.Orders. weregiven by signal,W9i~h; cind€;eq; W"$a11 thatic9uld he notieecl,that ,everyoncshould maKethti RC;$t oit ;l;lis; way. :Thisexpedieney, strong. as was the eaH, was cons}d~rali>lyin~o:Q;veni~nt;i.t)deedtosuch asw.ere at a 10ssto guess whichWa,y ithfl.t P1~A.l}t i;butelX~ttipn~nsome direction was ·.absolutely neces­Bary ;·.$flU1!.lf.fj,U~ pe.u(1Y1,listhe wo~d,ttnd the èavalry ra.Uied into a b()dyaga.l},drew s,ab~:es, afld ;cert~ûnly di/d the best that men could do in theencumbered ground they had to aet on, interspersed with dilapidatedhouses~ deep pits, and clusters of palm-trees.But the populace wascollected in Buen, numbers, and was so active and malignant, that Ît wasiUlpossible toparry themevery wbere.The foot-people too, sent to attendus outoftown by the executive, laid about thern, as in dutY bound,with long he~Yy sticks; but their blows seemed to malœ no more impresii... ,sjon tban. jfthey had been rushes. Having once rejoined, and regainedthe streets, the eavalry guard w:as of sorne avail, although the youngerpa.r;~pfthe mob pursued aboye a. mile beYolld' the.gates ofthe city, l'e-

SOIL., TR,EES, TH~ RLVRR TENSIFI'. 3viling and abJlSing. Such was the farewell bestowedby the placewhic~l had bidden welcome \Vith cavalcadingtmusic, and huzzas. Butin the one case the populacewas pr;epated, in the other left to themselves.Our,alcaids were toomJJchout of humour by the hard knockSthey had received, them~·elves, to offer any apology for their countrymentbe ha;ll1ates of Mor0cco, as, WaS thec:ase on tbeformer 6ccasionwhenthe mosques were visited and the obtrusivenesscompIainedof. ThereaSOn then assigned was, that a rude mass ofcountry-people had thruslthemselves in for some.reason, and thatsuch conduct was by no meansthat which distinguished the more urbane resident8 of the place. Onquittingthecity gM~on thenorthside, a wood of palm-tte~s .whichextends. for six miles 18 entered. These treesgtow frequentIy in acluster of six or sèven from the !same root, andseem here,· by the!,height, luxJJriance, alid umbrellà-'heads,tq beintheir favouritesoiI__amixture 'of argil and sand, in whic'h the ]atterconsideràbIy ptedomi'"nates; a sandy loam favourable to corn, and commandedby a copiousirrigation. The stream which supplies this here, and. 'v hich crOsses theroad, abounds, ]ike aIl the smallstreams ofthe country, with land tot:..toisès. 1t is odd that an animal 80 destitute of resoutce in defence,concealment or escape, shouldhave kept his race to tbis d~y~ithou1;extinction, especially too when his bead bears a priee. ln the ellen,..iug after sun~set they aggregate in groups oftweotyor more~inacircle,with tbeir he.ads together as if immersed indeep thought and confahu..lation~ They are used by tilany for ~food, and abound with eggs whichare not iIJ-tasted, though gritty. 'At.about ten or eleven miles.from Morocco the river Tensift is passed,there crossedon a bridge of twenty-seven arches of sinaU span, whichare pointed or doubJle-centred. But this bears no relation to Arabiearchitecture; for it is a mere modern work comparatively speaking,B 2

4 'l'RAVELS IN AFRICA..beirig constructedby the Christian slaves taken at the battle of Alkasr:and it must be admitted a specimen of no injudidous orimpolitic modeof employing their captivity. The river Tensjft clisembogues at Azafia.The escort encamped here in the rich meadows by its side.Its streamis uot just here and atthis tirnldeep, but, by the appearance'ofits banksand channelris equaHyformida.bleiri that respect as in the rapidity ofits course, when the ~nows commence their rneIting on the side oi:Mount Atlas in order to resume and confovm lo thei,l~ stlmmer boundary.The ,apidity, of the course of this riv:eRpFovesa vel'Y considerable descentinthe plain of Morocco westward.It may be judgèd tolerably pertinent, and certainly IS not premature;DOW that the second journey is entered upon, ta risque the charge ofdigression, by describing once for aU the mode of tvavelling with an:escort here.-'In the morning a hasty breakfast is snatched E\!ery dif...ferent in its abundance or diversity from the flesh-potsof Fez) of breadand coffee; butter is oftèred, but being chllrned (if t'he expressioniniaybe used) in a skin, is not adapted to a European palate, and is usuallydeclined. And an, during the time the n'l.calis preparing or taking, e}ieFtthemselves, as it behoves them todo, to pack, load, and· seud 00'the baggage; on the due and timely'performance o,f which de~end8what cornfort may he hoped fol' during the res.idue of the day, by% thepunctual arrivaI of the beasts of burthen at the place of haIt in theev:ening.'which move slowest.The heaviest and rnost dispensable is loaded on the camels,The tents, ûf which it would be recommendableto such as can afford it to have two sets, are Ioaded on the mules ;-an~these are points\vhereon it behoves the Europeans who may h~avel hereto advert personally, as, if left to themselves to arrange matters, theMoors will invafiably load the tents upon the camels, which nevet arriveuntH four hourI) aftel' the caraIJ'Jand mules.l'he' cal1J,.e]s being

MODE OF T:R.AVELLI NG \V IT H .A N ESCOltT. 5loaded, proceèd first; next foHow the mules, withthe tents and canteens,both under sniall guards.As soon as the last of the baggage is off theground, the standard is raised; whereupon the troops mount, and, thewhole being formed,'move off the ground in a body.The rate of tra...velli:ng upon 'the roadis a quick walk 0" about'tbree miles and threequa'rters in an bouI:.A'ter about Dve bours thu8 proceeding, a haIt ismade if possible, and usuallyby a sprin~ or weil of water; and if in dmshade of a tree, which generallypresents itself in such situations, themore agreeable.Mussulman philanthropy considers the wants 011 thetraveITer, and has generally, with a benevolence beyond the charge ortrouble of t,he task, by planting and taking careof a few trees, matetiallycontributèdto' his relief.Sucb a situation lIsua]']y presents itselfhere at the half day's journey, and here thetraveHers dine.The alcaidwhoconunands.; sends a dish of stewed meatwhich bas· aeeu dressedthe night be'fore, and, being now heated overcharcoaJ, is by no meausbad. fare.The apparatus for cooking on the road is peculiarly weUadapted, and very simple.The only spiritous liquor procurable inthis country (and without something of the kind the in habits acquiredin Europe wiU not be satisfied) is Jew's brandystrongly impregnated,'Vith aniseed, and thereby very irteconcileable with our palates, werethereallY alternative.requrreto be descanted on.But the conciliatory p

6 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.boon ·directfrom Heaven.Canuot this be the frUit the poet spea~sof?Bad water, bad food, are rendered acceptable, mental and bodiJYexhaustionrestored, by the aid of this powerful corrective, which is felttoact upou the wholecoustitution: and a traveller most essentiallyoverlooks his comfort, who ne,eéts to 1ay in an ample stock of this mostgrateful fruit.The watel' which the traveller obtains on this routerather increases than a:llays thir8t, from its maukish tepidity, eyen atthe spring, by the heat {)f the weather; enhanced tao (for enhancmnentcaD Ifevail by such a mean) by the rancid taste of the skiu\vllerein itis carried, whereto the tar with which the skin is payed, and which eIse..where would cause the stomach ta fise, almostacts as a corrective. Thiswatcr however, be it observed, 80 carded in skins, is by the transudatiollthecoolest the iraveHer will meet with, cooler than that fI>om the spring~Stillit participates of one of the torments imagined by the poets, fortbir8t stiJl increases in proportion to the qualltity imbibed..In sorneplaces on the present route to Tangier the springs are hr:ackish, "Vlerysalt in faet, and brinish would be a 11tter termeBere is a subject fOlanimadversion, but it shaH not tempt us ta digress-transgress perhapswou]cl be the more appropriate term. Sornetimes salt and fresh springsare met within a few yards ofeach other. Our standard-bearer previouslyto the order to tlismount occasionally tasted the springs at which wehalted, ta try thcir quality in this respect, by dipping the butt of hislance in the watel', and thus bringing it to hislips; and we frequentlyhad to move further in sem'ch of a fresh spring.-Those who write uponthe prinçiple that it is as much the interestand wish of. the. reader asit is of the traveller to get to the end of the jourlley, will studiouslyÇl.void aB deductions tbat may lead to dissertation. But it may assqredJyhe permitted to calI on mineralogy to advert to this indication of theexistence of fock-salt, in the classification of strata..-The antjcipation~ . .

MODE OF TRAVBLLING. 7of theêgcu~tal1dethusoutof its place,possesses snmewhatüfa.threatenirigàspectto those who appretiate at their full value the hours be-,stowed ona book. But repentance, which predudes theoffence, mustever be well-tirned.The mid-dayhalf isofabouî two hour~continuance'; and; the escortthenj:moceeds about five houfsjourney. further, more or less, accordingas the convenience ofwaterpresents itself; andthere it 11alts ,usually?boutsun-set for the night.As the extent of the dista.nce from wateris tàlerably weIl ascertained for the mostpart (thOllgh not invariably)So far as relates to time, the arrangements of setting out, and degree ofexpedition while going, are usually calculated with a due degree ofpre...cision, sa as ta come, as aforesaitd, to the place of evening ha.lt muoh.about the period ofthesun's ver~ingto the western horizon, or somewhatbefore it.Here it is necessary to wait an Hour at least, for; the'tents, which, when arrived, it is the business of every one ta aidin; theunpackjng and pitcbing of, and alsoin preparing the seanty arrangementsfor a ~peedy Bupper, in order to au early subsequentconsignmeutofwearied bodies to what is called repose. The alcaid. usually (as often'as they can be gotten: it is doing him but justice to.. say,)sends in sornelive fowls, and half a sheep; and these articles are, after a process ofpreparation which deserves honour for its summariness and indepen"",denceofest-ablisheJ modes, placed upon the gridiron, whence, indespiteof, or despair From, scantiness of fuel, they speedily r.each,the table,~the ground, ta speak more precisely; for that is the board whereon theyare spread.But indeed, from the short time they are permitted ta remainthere, it il' hardly a circulllstanceto be noticed, every person feelingacommon interest to save from encroachment as much ofthe preciousand seanty hours allowable for sleep as possible, the utmost limitsthereof notexceeding six.Hence it will be obvious that these are

8 1'RAV.BL~ IN AFRICA.Dot exactly the" noctes cœrueque div~m;"and that a fortnight tlillS'passed will Dot bring back much luxurious reflection to the mind.Ori..ganum, saffron,and anise, are a. very indifferent seasoning to meatone half whereof is in a state of scorching, and the other of crudity ;aDd to be washed down by tèpid water! But although the lamentationsof disappointment upon these beads be allowable in Sancho inhis dear-bought 8tate, murmuring would be inadmissible from thosewho voluntarily undertake a. journey in Africa. At worst,however,these enviable repasts possess, what their contra8ts. are often deficientin, cheerfulness, and a community ofdetermination to make the bestofevery thing; and in this way much more is done than from the'descriptionwould be supposed possihle.Three fly-tents, with mattresses laid on the ground, accommodatesix Europeans. One ~1oorish lad, a namesake of the Prophet, andtherefore entitled Saadi (wbich honorific epithet, however, could notpreserve him, if the higher powers on earth here willed it, from a bastinuding),attends the European party; and his bonhom'l1'bÎe and awk.wardness, eq ualJy conspicuous, are so poized, that the irritation thelatter excites iscompletely neutralized by the former. He is ' a specimenof a certain description of softness ofdisposition and intellect fre':'quently depicted in the countenances of the young 1\tloors, not beliedby experience, and by no means, it is very much to be thought, repug..Hant to the capability of moral improvement.l\fter aH, what a traveller suffers most by here, is ,cold. For an hourand a half before sun-fise, wben the traveller first mounts his horse andproceeds, the air is very chilI; and much \Vorse is it if, as is frequentlythe case, a fog lurks on the surface. In winter at .Fez the ice is an inchthick. The human body is made, too, the more sensible,by the relaxationfrom the heatof the preceding day. The extreme sleepiness super-,

MODE OF TRAVELLING. 9inducetf by thisCbld morning air, with the necessity of re~isting the inclinationand moving on, yet slowly, and not with asufficient ~xerti()nto conquer it, is, perhaps, a torment as severe, for thetime, as most'that could he inflicted. It causes an abandonment of all effort; givesa wish to be precipitated, that the man's hbrse should fan under him,so that it were but permittedto him, when he reached the eartb, to Hethere and sleep. For this malady there is but one cure-the arrivaI atthe halting-place, and consequent consciousness of full liberty to in..dulge the propensity.This point onceohtained operates with a talismaniepower, and the inclination from tbat instant totally ceases.Inencamping, thealcaidfirst sets up his o\vn tent, to which those oftheperson's he escorts arepitched immediateJy adjacent, and those of4US;;the soldiersare ranged in an exterior circ1è aroond them; the horsesbeing piqueted within this cirde, each one opposite to his master'stent. These high-spirited quadrupeds are very restless dtlring the night, .frequently breaking loose from their piquets, and getting entangledamoBg the coms"" of the tents: incleed theyare the greatest possibleannoyance and interruption to the few hours allotted for repose.Ha\riogreached the place of evening hait, and prayers havingheen said (by. the Mohammedans), tires are kindied as soon a~ fuel can be coUected,which i8 frequentlya matter of no i'nconsiderable difficulty and delay;and the soldiers and travellers, after having tended their catde,horsesor mules, prepare their suppers as before described. About ten atlilight the sentinels are posted; and during tbis period untiJ midnightare perhàps the quietest hours of the twenty-four. SubsequentIy, tberestlessness of the horses, and the alertness of the senünels, who passthe word with a very soldier-like regularity, and tire frequent shots atfbobers, or what they choose to take br represent for such, at real orbuckram thie\res, banish sleep al together.VOL. IL c

JOTRAVELS IN AFRICA.'As to the harse, he is the pride of the Moor.Indeed it is obvionsin the faces of the lords of the creation, thai they think th.e worst ofthisclass of dignified quadrupeds too good for a Christian tobestride.Thehorse is indeed here an animal of superior beauty :he ismore sub..stantial,has more stuff in him, by reason of hisfine pasturage, than theSpanish:horse has; ,and his action and shape,. too, differ to advantage.In his movement he does not raise his feet so higll, but advances mme ;and in his shape he does not slip in hisquarters as does the Sipaf!ishborse.The Moorish borses, too, do Dot pa.ce: Üleir.ordint:lry p.rogressive stepis along walk. Except the lacerationsin tbeir side}) by those tremendousspurs, the Moors tr,eat tbeir horses witb kindness, or at Ieast what they in..tend tobe such. In fact, the equine racemeets with considerably morebenignityand respect in this country than human nature does. Al\'loorwould shudder or take fire at seeing bestowed upona horse, a disciplinewithwhi~h he would have no 5crupleof treating his fello\f-man everyday, or whichindeed he would submit to himself. as thew·ill of rate.TheJ\t.Loors do Hot, as is the usage of the Tartars,eI))ploy allY UJillg byway ofawhip; aJ;ld f(lgeinfiames their cotmtenaDcees if they see a Chris..tian presume to use such a mode of persuasion to an animal which Ila8the llOnour to belong to one of the faithful: therefore itmust be éarefullyavoided here.Theil' saddles are very inconvenient to a Europeanwho i8 not used to them ;-but neither can the natives bear that ananimal so regpected by them should he contaminated by a piece of furniturebelonging to a Christian, the more especially as every similarmaterial so appropriated i8 der~ved in theil' ideas from the.l~og: forthe mental association i~ insuperable. AlI this is weIl worthy thea.tten..tion of those, who have no interest in givingotlence, to advert to duly,;and in consequence they will see the necessity of submi~ting OIl th 13points dictaled to them bere, w;hetber by custom or prejudice,ini philo..

TREA'lMRNT OF 'lBB BORSE. 11\Sophie silence..,Among their horses every colaut IS seen here, save blaèk.Here are indeed amongstthemhorses which any one· would take atfirst view to he of that colour, bût on close inspection white hairs arc:always found scattered through the coat. 'fhey never dock their harses,:but, until they ai'c three years old, shave their tails; for what l'eason,unless to disfigltl'e them, cannat he easily ascertained: indeed the·Moors are not very communicative of their 'l'ationalia upon any point(Jf practice.Thesehorses very frequently reach the height of sixteen hands.Thebàssa of Tangier hâd twelve horses of superlative beauty, aIl bred by·himself, not one of which was under the height of fifteen hands andahaÎf.}Bùtnorsesare generally bredby the Arabs, from whom theMoots buy them. Those bred by the Arabs are the gentlest andIJesttemperedof animals,being ina manner domesticated from the timetheyare foaled.Having practice but in two paces, a walk and agallop, they are not so much on their haunches as could be expected ;but they are, notwithstanding, very sure-footed, galloping safely overthe most rugged ground.Mares drop their foals in January, whenhere is the greatest plenty of grass: so Nature harmonizes aIl.Bath Arabs and :Moors are very particular about the sires. A horseofthe fi1'st races, that is ta say, descended of some famous horse of oId,will sell for double the amount of one equally good, but whose ancestryis unenrolled in the records of FaIne. Whenbought in the inferiorof the country, they are ta be had cheap; but when broughtdownto the coast, where alone a European can procure one, a horseis seldom ta be had for less than t\VO hundred dollars; so that theyare as dear as in Europe, not computing the relative proportions ofeurrent medium. It is difficult to ex port them, although they are sometimessmuggledout: but it is contrary to the Sultan's win, and thec 2

TUA VELS IN AERICA."prejudices of the people; and the former must grant his special permissionin order for one to leave the country openIy.Every thing here in the mode of treating the horse is; decitiedly there\'erse of the. process of Europe. They hegin to ride them, wiseIy, s~late as at four years of age; and from tItat time every thing the animalexperiences in the hands of man,. is absolutelycontrary as much to nal'"tureas to what his own free will would decide or dictate.The farrier'sshop lies in a very small compass :-a leathern budget, like that of ourtinker,. contains an anvil, a pan for charc(})al,apuir ofpinceI:s, a.ham­111er, and one or two small instruments more.much, and square the toe~They pare the hee! tOGOn the journey the horse sets out in the morning unfeGl and unwatercd.Such is the effect of habitu.ation,. that,notwith~tanding theheat, if passing a river he bardly puts clown his bead in,cffort to drink~The borse carries," besides his rider with his arms and his spurs (nqtrifle), a clumsy saddle ofseveral stones weight, with a pairof c1umSc,}tstirrupB each weighing some pounds, a wallet offooclon each side fo~his rider and himself, and a powerful, though light, bridJe. A mid-daj'thaIt is made, as already mentioned; but thehorse gains no relief hereby,save from the weight upon his back: and relief it can scarceIy; becalled, considering the process. he is then subj~cted to in the piqueting"which i3 thus.The horseman has four small pegs like those of a tent,.to each of which is a rope, snare, al' noase, which,is put round the f~t~lock of the borse, and thus his fore and hind feet. contracted towardSieach other, as a greyhound stands, but the fore legs straddled apart like'a feeble-chested harge. In this ta him uunatural position. he 15 fixed t ,a butt to the attacks of sUI)-beams and flies.This being aIl duly managedto the horse's comfort, the ~foorhangs his armson tbe p0111:­mel of the saddle, which last is never taken off unti! the jpurneY't) end;~

MANAGÊMENT OF THE aORSR. 13and 'lets the'hridle, which is ingenious as weIl as powerful, consisting ofan iron ring, which aets in aid both of bit and curb-chain, with a lighthead-staIl, and single reins fastened to cheeks which have a very smal1pur~hase,faU out of his mouth and down upon his chest, the head-stanremaining upon his head.The bit thus disengaged can he replacedwi'thout disturbing the head-staIl; a great convenience in this way oflife.At night, however, the bridle is taken off usuatly a:ltogether, andhung, like the other thiogs, on the pommel, the whole presenting a;most readJ'and soldier-like arrange~ent.Thus are, however, 1eft at tne'noon-day and c,veninghalts, in the former case in the heat of the merid1anandsolstice, undcr a burning sun reflected from a parcBed:soil, ,three hundred high-spiritcd\staJlions, ,vho challenge and answer·each other, and deafenhuman cars with thei·r boastful neighings. Andif one do, as is momentarilythe case, get loose, a desperate 6ght (royalamu,sement here it is to be observed' by t'ile \Vay)' commences; s@ thatit may be judged what a riot must be kept up in consequence betweenharses and masters,and how litt1e this can cleserve to be entî,tled a pcriod()f rest.After a repose however-ot tnis d'escription, and subsequent day's.journey, on coming in at evening thehorses are given first as much"vater ~s they cboose to drink. They are then unbridled, and left ne...coutred as beforè described., when as much barley and broken straw Îs,laid before. them@n a skin or cloth as they can eat; and this carries;them through tbetweoty..fôur Hours.But as to the famons snaRe,hOIses of which we hear from dIe s()uth, the stories we are told of them,woul.d ioduce itto be thollght l'Hat they went through their lives and;laboul:S almost without the aid of any sustenance whatever.Habit,.although oot carrying its effects quites(). far as that, may weIl be called:a iecond nature. Thus it may be saicl that the-borse hem oever lies clown",

14 TRAVELS IN AERICA.is never unsaddled, and. l'leVer sleeps; for the latter ptOcess bfn~ture ]SDot perceivable among them. Yet notlling dcadeps their highspirit :and such is often the treatment for Dine~onths in. the year ;indeed, inmany cases, for ycars together.But when'due opportunity ofi'ers, theyare turned out in the winter to graze.When the hor8es are fed onstraw, they, previously ta watering thorn, rub their mouths with tal',assigning as a reason for the praçtice that straw-food is badfor their,eyes, and that tar corrects this il1 quality.A rationale and a recipeworthy, for consistency'ssake, ofinsertion in thcQompilati6ns of·theirbrother-farriers of Europe. They do not curry; andwhenever tlleycan, swim their horses.to few complaints; very little to broken wind.These animaIs are here comparatively subjectIndeedit is obvious,from the regime observed, that the pressure of cOlrihined causes,· thedistension from food and violent action, the case which occurs,of aIlthe prone animaIs, to the horse alone, constantly.èo-operating, cannothave the bad effect it has with us in Europe. The ho/l'ses hère,wheninaction, are nearly empty: hence the stress u:pon the intercostal nervesis very trifling, being no Inore than the natura} ,action of thelungs; andthe, complaint so common in Europe i8 rare here.They are, however,generally tenderfooted, and sbaken in the shoulders, from the mode inwhich they are used. It cannot be othenvise with rough horsemanship,bad roads, il1 farriery, and absurd treat.ment.These people do not hold their reins in the European horseman's ivay,but as our coachmen hold theirs, with the middle finger hetween each,and the back of the hand llppermost.This mode is very convenient tothe pùrpose ofdrawing up the reins, which are long, hanging almost tothe ground, ,and usually slack; but when the horseman prepares him-, ~self to fire, he draws them up short, when he rests the musquet in~thelefthand. (See the plate.) It iscqua1Jyconvenient, too, for i:ecehting the

fire-~1'1ll when he dJ!~nv~ his sabre. The foregoing, and the crooked dagger"arelli~ only instruments of death (our pistols they despise, probablyfrom their compara,tive .d~1llinutiveness),if we except his spurs fromth~t descript~on, to which they ~n correctness belong most unquestion..,abIy, being six-inch daggers withguards to them like rapiers.15They.are left with thestirrups, in th.e proportions of which they certainly assimilatebetter than with any thing else ; and the man .canput his footinto spur-tackling and stirrup at the saille time. Any one, to see theformer unoccupjed, would take it for sOllle clulllsy weapon ofoffence.Itinerary. MQROCCQ to TANGIER.-Second Day.Mounted andmarchedoff by sun-rise. The route before us for tWQ;leagues in Jellgth wascovered by soldiers' baggage, and rnilitary stragglersgoing to Morocco from>~m .enca1llpment of the Sultan's troops,somewhere in the neighbourhood of F~z DOW breaking up. Amongstthegeneral crowd was an alcaid ofrank, escortcd by a hundred footsoldiers,with whom were borlle by mounted men nine standards ofdif.ferentcolours, having gilt balls of the size of ostrich's eggs on the topsof the poles.The rear was closed. by il bod~ of two hundred cavalry,in front of whom rode a great over-proportion of officers, and with·which w~re twelve standards, one whereof (for sorne reason no doubt)was uot displayed.. Tbese persops wcre aIl very handsomely apparelledand appointed in theirway, aU being in wçite. They marched thirty infront. The firstrank preserved ils dressing, but the remainder did notseem to attend.toany order. These troops were in march to constitutepart of an arlJlY .of ten thonsand men forming for the purpose oflevyingcontributions in Tafilet; so that they will bave to traverseM.ount Atlas;andwould probably have afforded a favourable opportunity to Europeans,.who could h~veThey were nearly aIlNegroes.availed themselves of it, to visit that country.

16 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.Quitting the plain, the last view of Morocco is ta,ken from a ridge orchain of broken rocky schistose hiBs of inconsiderable elevation, whichrunabout east and west.,!ts last appearance was, as on the Mogodorside, the Iofty steeple of the great masque towering over a bright streakofgreenalong the horizon-the heads ofthe palm-trees.Five hours route.-At the hour of ten the escor:t descended tosomesprings at the foot of the hills, where haIt was made for the rest of thecil.ay.At its arrivaI vast herds of cattle, cows, oxen, sheep, goats, cam.elsand dromedaries were th.erewatering,and tended by their Arabmasters more naked and wild also than themselves. These cattle arethe property of a great tribe now encamped on the left side of the road.Bere the escort remained exposed ta a mid-day sun, and for severalhours,until the haggagearrived, it havi~gbeendetained by the fallingof several of the call1els, to the injury of the loads.The road from Mor.oc.coto Tangi.er is whitened by the bones and skeletons of these animaIs,whichhave successive1ysunk upon it in the service ofman,-·a serviceessential here mutually to both parties.It is astonishing how thespecies could ever have been maintained in its abstract state of nature.'ro it, on the other hand, man owes little less than his existence in thesecJimates"~totally the power and means of traversing and oècupying aconsiderable portion of the globe. His presence is hardlyJess necessaryto tbeexistence of the quadruped,-vVho can say that this is the effect ofchance.?The whole duration of life of this animal, JiteraHy to be entitleda souffre douleur, now unknown, be it observed, save in a state ofservitude, is a series of hunger, thirst, fatigue, and suffering, in and forthe use of others,without the al1eviation ofa single rnomentary gratifi~cation.The Barbary camel is reckoned the strongest of his species,and his daily food'when travelling is but alittle barley and sorne thistles.The habits of this animal when contemplated .9ppear roost extraorrli..

narJ'.OF THECAMEL AND DRO.MEDARY. 17:Dy itsgfaans and maans at the time af Iaading, it should besupposed ta suffer the most dreadful pain: such too, sufferance, is theexpression of its physiognomy.animaIs.Yet'it must he the most insensible afWe ean hardlysuppase gratitude for the operative humanaid, which effeetuated the congeniaI prindple of such a wretched existence,:tocauseaUthis endurance.' As to its wails, passibly it may bea habit acquired in the breaking,when they areincessant alld intolerableto the ear.People in this part af the worId da not subscribe to theapiniou af the mustrious Buffon in his distinction hetween the cameIa:q.d the dromedary~ The latter is much smaller thau the other, and 80s:wiftithat:he willgoahuudred miles in the course afa day. Thecamelisan 'anim~ldfS!l:awaction*.here.Dromedaries are frequently met withAccordingta the accounts of this people, on a point whereonthey have no interest todeceive~ a dromedary ls the. offspring of t'Wocamels.What they say, and they aIl agree in it, is,that. they do noțknow wheiher the young animal, when first dropped, is a camel or a dromedary;~or far sorne days after: hut if it continue for several days(prohahly nine) in astate of unremitted sleep, then it is ascertained tohe a dromedal'Y :--thus we maysay, the latter does not open his ey~sso soon as theformerdoes.We could not ascertain any thing conclusiveas 10 the ptocreationof the drornedary; bùtfrom every inferenceit shouldseem thebreed did.not descend. There probably isyetà.con..Slderable degree ofmatter to be Iearned as to the natural.history of thisanimal.The mules of this .country do not reach tbesize of thase ofli< The douj)le steps of the camel" t~a~ is t?e repetiti?ll of ~he same foot, are about two thousandtwo hundred pel' hour. This double step éovers about five feet and a half our measure. Themarch ofa camel is eight mmdred miles in three hundred and twenty-two hours-Colonel Cappe~._TWQ miles .and a half pel' }lour~Mr. IrvÏIle.The load of thecaravan camel is about five hundred weight, he will not bear more; when overchargedhe throws himselfdown, and wails.vaL. II.D

18 TRAV.ELI IN EUROPE;Spaih; btit tl1eir other cattle are tlnivèrsa}ly superior~ not ortlyiH.conllLi..tian but in shape and size.. The beèfof Batbary eerbiitIly cornes( l1elXtjh point of quàlity ta that bf the British islands.1ft i5 itlllpws5ible tuimagine a morebeantiful spectacle, in ns W8iS, than was affo:vdéd by thesenumérous droves of cattle of every variety~ butaHunexceptiorlably n'nein their kinds, at the haIt of this day. :.Atthis place was eXlhibited aspecimen of jttstice ù la M(Jre~6Jue :..,..:,;It was neceséary to procureulorecalhals in the places of t1108e disabled ; and an.Arab received hndnèyfl'O'm the alcaid on condirtion ofpraviding theIDY,+leâvim~m:!'t brotker inpledgé for His return,and the conlpletionafthè business~Ftefeftihg~bowever; the pO"ssession of the cashJ~thé erna(ncipatiori of abrother; noJn()te was beard·of him: and Our alcaid, ,,,hen (he found llow behadbeen defrau

EVENING S.ER:BJ~iE'~{S IN' TllB PJ;;.~IN OF CASTILLE. 1!1]1~1~{p~~+h~~t~~~,bejJing therefore evidei\tlyno longer profitable property,was unbound and let go his way, to cast ùpând balance as he ,pest.~I.).nldthetaQflil y settlement.The trllct of country beforeus here .Ïs PllfChed, artd yields rto ,vatel'tf)reigfJ;t.hours jonl'lley..,.,;.tl1iJJtymiles. In .consequence, it is nécesS:â.ry;il.) $~t"onta;tmbou~~ise{:arn1daccorclcillgly,tents bemg struck at Dight';'fa:H,the marchcommenced at eleveno'c1oc:k, withsQmeéQnfusion: but the~llrly pa~'t of the nrght afforded a delightful ride, thé beahty of the se..l'elle lltQflosphere bringingto lnind, if not emula:tïng, that season et theit~~nty..four hours iÏutlle elevated plain of Castille.lt~1f1/flJJ."tll.{MQBQ(J rogress of sixteen hours, the escorthaltedat sorne springs in rieh meadows at the foot of hills.-T\Vo .ca..D2

20 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.'râvans going t() Morocco crossed us on to..day's route, and ~iXel'tftSiiderableArabcamps were in sight.·The European travellers on such occasions as the present are mountedon the horses of the Boldiery; and theworst usually, by some fatality,faU to their lot: that isto say, thecasualty takes place thus, when theirbacks are turned to 'Morocco. On the route from Mogodor to that city,each retained the horse whereon he set out; but on the'pre~nt occasion,the alcaid, who governs aH, directed a different arrangement, andeach soldier gives up his horsein turn roI' the day.:·Œbis:llfê·(fôeswitfia hearty curse on theCaffrewhocausesit, although paid, or promis.eftto be paid, at the journèy's end.of the heterodox.Any change is rarely for the benefitIt 'w'ould he adviseable for such persons a8mayhereafter have these routes to perform, tomake due stipulations uponthis point.The country travelled through, this' day, after light I:>roke,lS uncultiv~ted and parched, until approaching the 'place of eveninghaIt, where, on the hills, tillage appears. At this timeof theyearthenatural herbage lS already DOW burnt off such arid uplands j but theymust be coveredduring the carly seasonwith an abundant verdure.Whatwould the returns of this country he,did a jndicious system ofagriculture step in, to supply by human exertion green food in the destltuteperiod of the year, which is rrom this time (J une) until November!Every dimate must have its season ofwant, although these duly vary:and then, without the aid of man, animal creation suffers.His objectis to bring the seasons, as mllch a~ in him lies, to an equilil:>riumofsnstenaneefot whathe has under his care.In most clitl1ates Nature al..]ows little more than the reinstatement, during the plentifulseason, ofwhat the vital forces and powers lostduring the pinching part of theyear.; Hel' object has be~n to beadequate-to maintain the due ba...lance. If man would haveabundance,revelin sup~rfluity,lle lllust

DEEP..ROOTED ':p*I,;A;iNTS EI'I' FOR THE SOIL HERE. ~lpUit his"ôwnibe~d andhand to the business. Deep-rooted plants, suchas the sainfoin, wbuld be the ohjects of the 'rational agriculturist here;fOTwesee that the tender natural graminous fibres cannot stand evenhefore a May sun.Itinerar!!l.-,-MoRocca to TANGIER. Fourtlt Day.-Tents were struckbefore,andthêground marched off,from by, thefi'rst appearauce of thesun. A gratifying procedure: the' weatI1er and season delightful, andaIl nature around cheerful for some hours, until the pressure of the sunJ~heams brings to our mind the story of the nation ofold, somewhere inthis neighbourhood, which misemployed its time in bestowing dailycursesonhitri..AU, howevel', did not behold the glories of naturearound'\vithe"uaHygayseusations; for'one pOOl' fellow-tl'avel1et found'himself ro'bbed during th~ precediing inightof.his aU. He '~as notin"deed within the precincts of the camp,uotchoosingto paythesum de..:rn~Bided for the same; yethopin'g to gain eQV1alprotection byappearingin sut'h'Tespectable company. A mistake, certainIy, in regard to whichitwas the 1nterest of several to undeceive him. These are, however,8111, the conjectures Just as they occurred at the moment, without aughtof cortoborationto ,he sl.i6tained hy.At any rate, it appeared by the're8:(11t thathecalculated veryill in thus pitching hi8canvass apart:~better ithavebeenfdr him to havehad his habitationamong .thetents'ofKedar! foHle· hadtwoihund.red ducats to be robbed of; andhefellamongthie'Ves,asiit turued out; for he was robbed, as is alFeadysaid, ·of his âH,thisnight'.An alarm was spread on the discovery; buttHiswas:trladeV'erylâte ~··s()ldiershowe'Ver1J}ouuted,asin dutY bound,andwentin iPltfsuit, aU indue:form. Ti.'Ql'ehowever now urged, and 'theyàiânotmal

TRAVELS ,IN A,fiR'ICA.\ir~~, iusuç'h a state of tllingsllllel;istshtere. W~~can ~~.Y', aft~v·ar~l~tbat'lllis is not a collusion for whichthedistrict willh:;lve to ~u;ffer?Nooneis

and ruggei hrowt

'l'RAVELS IN AJ!RICA;and uneommonly rapid and turbulent river.The Arabsguide theraft with one hand, 'and swim on with the other, sustairiing themselves,each, on a blown goat-skin, with what rags they have by wayof clothing, tied, as a turban, round their heads.Thus they,lead ordirect the raft aeross tllis very wide and roost rapid stream, tro.nsversely,allowing themselves to be carried by it down about a quarterofa mile; where they land, taking advantageoi a still watercaused .bya Jedge of rock•.As S00n as the passengers and baggage arela:n\~led,theraftjsdh:;id;ed,each Arab takeshis p~rt, andhastens up an eqtlal distanceabove thatopposite to the point on tbeother side, whence tbey set off upon thenavigation; and there,eachcommitting himse~f again to the stJJeaJ:ll.,urges or towshis raft across for anoth~r cargo. Seven persons cau crossn,pan a raft of this kind, sittingc1os.e back .ta back.The Arabs 'takethe horses, each·man by lSevens, for good luck, bythe bridles, and plungein, whil~ a man urges them from behind ·until they s'vim. The.cantclownersare paid oif, or otherwise discharged.ilâtibitum,.. at the. castfe,and other camels are compelled or foundreadyto;be hiredat the oppositeside.Whena single Arab hasoccasion to CrosS the river, hefastens his c10thes round his head, and taking a skin underhis leftarm, throws hims·elf in,swimming with his ~egscrossing this formidable stream with, to h~m,and right.arm; thus.no m:ore dHficulty thanwe shouldfind were there here a bridge to pass overby. The river a~this time was ,comparatively Imv;.':Ît was abouta.. hund,redaud fiftyyards across, and, as said,proceeds totbe sea with a very ..rapiddesceut.lis course here lies bet\Veen bold hills.. The~e hi,us ,are ..not,bowever~the extrusi\re eJges of strata, but rather elevatedtabJ,e Jand,.alluviated .iuto sections or valleys; the wa,sh ofwatersJQtmiQg th~lteads being at ..or about a level.,val1eys,:their'rhebÇ)d of;tbe..dveJ."is\J.oaœ Qr~a:v~l.

ARABS AND THBIR MÙORISH COUNrrRYMEN. 25'The wa1:er, whiIe in this bed (to which it does not appear to owe the co­100.1') is red as blood to the eye, but taken up&in a glass is clear, co­16urless, and, for river-water,unusually good. The Arabs produced forQUI' supper most excellent fish, of the size and shape of a salmon: theflesh was white, and tasted Jike gray mullet. , This, salted, is said to bean article of trade; and if so,the fish must abound. Four rafts hadbeen kept plying the whole of the 'evening. The Arabs here are con­~idered by the Moors as the most barbarous of the race of Jshmael~Disparaging sentiments are usually reciprocaI.The Arabs \Vould notpass a man across unless paid beforehand :-hence we may judge theiropinion oftheir Moorish fellow-countrymen and subjects. From thisto SaleeisreckonQd the inost.dangerous partof the route. The guardsin consequence are very,aIert: J"requept shots. are fired at seen or unseenthieves. The passing theword, the dutiesof the sentinels, and aIlthese important minutire, are executed among these people, \Vith a regularityand inethod which, as in most other observable cases, tends toprove that the nation possesses qualifications to put them on a scale, inanydirection oflife, with the l'est of mankind.Fifth day.-Continuing the route,an Arab tribe was met on its march,produdng very characteristic and picturesqu~ groups. The men andboys, nalted, with long:staves drove cattle of everydescription blended.'"fhe calIlels presented the whole tnenage of the fatnily:. three ladies,mtiffied up to tlte eyes, sat upon the summit .ridge of the awkward animal,surrounded below by the heads ofthe young broods, and domesticfowls' dotted here and thêre through the other groups. A few men,mere' skiri and "bone," on horsesnearly ag déêharnés as themselves, withnre-arms in their hands and suspicionil1 their countenances, guardedthe fair, their families, goods and chattels.A Tuuisiau of ranknext crossed the escort, on his way to ~Iorocco,VOL. II.l , J

26 'l'RAVELS IN AFRICA.very handsomely dressed in bis country costume, with silver-môtmteclsabre and pistols, riding a fine mule.He had OIl, to proteet him fromthe sun, an immenseIy broad-britnmed straw hat with a shallow erOWIl,and was; therewith, the counterpart of :the oId woman of Bt:~inford;contravening the taste of Sir Hugh, where he says, "1 do not likewhen a woman has a peart-·l spy a greatpeart under her muffler/'A saint of the Xeriff family next presented himself under observationon the same route. Ile was laidat his lengtband ease in a waggonroofedliUer covered with scarleteloth. This, when laid across. theback of a m!11e, and supportedby a man at each end, eonstituted hisyehicle; asomewhat vacillating one, as may he supposed.-A môuntedArab was this day seen with the true old battle-axe; a short club heavilyironed and spiked at the head.great dexterity.They throw these weapons withAfter three hours ride, the escorthâlted at a broof{shaded by palm-trees loaded with nests of stotks, and adjoining toan Arab eamp, whence were procured good milk and bread. ~verynew appearance shouId set the mind of the traveller in action ror.. infel'ences.That of the birds here mentioned tells him .he is no longer in anarid tract. The Arabs, ta-day, produced for sale a young wild boar. Thisis a still furthereonnrmation ofa change in the soil. 'According hereto,few eountries indeed possess sneh an under proportion of inapplicablesurface: the shifting sands of Mogodor are an of this noble tract betweenthe mountain and the ocean, which could not he made a gardenof:-appIy but the water Jevel and the plbugh-share, and an speeâilyfolIows.How mortifying to see these capabilities unknmvn Jthese bfessingsspurned bya Government embra'cing inJpreference fanaticism and,malignity! a nation of vlctimsJ asocroty ofcritnes ! 'Hard by this station was the hOÎlsé.of âfaD!ous saint,,' in the,aJ!}t'lêÎnwhereof he sat cross-Iegged, with hls rosary in his"haad;auttb'y this

MAUSOLEA, AND :PWBLLINGS OB THEIR SAINTS, RTC. ~7sanctor~um,inan area, were two beautiful horses piqueted: the placecontained nothing eise. The obtrusion whereby this view was obtainedwas highly off~nsive to the saint, considerably dangerous to the obtruder,and by nomeans recommendable for imitation. These smallchapelsare scattered tbl'ough "the country, being the mausolea of de·ceased,.and dwellings ofexisting, s~ints.· 1'0 theseplaces, .andwitbthesepérsonages, people come for thepurposps of devotion. .Tbeysubsist on alms; andwhen they go out, cUistom and reverence give tbemanunlimited'rigbt of eutry. Privilege is indeed carried by them to tbeutmostextent the term 'admits of. That severai very grave charactersmayexistaluongtllem,iseasily tobe conceived:tbese of cQurse willbé little visible. ,ÂBH that thestranger,hasto fo.rm his -idea from, IS t:hetribe of halt:llmatics or half-idiots who obtrude themselves .every.whel'e,and, !hllS cloaked, are conyenient]feu~bledto e~;rryona plan of .lifefor which' Nature bas weIl fitted ihem.Tl~eynt1ver want a :due .shareof method in their madness, or of cunning in their folly.After five hours l110re journeyil1g, during which:a convoy sienderlyguarded, ofaboutt\venty apparently very stoicai criminaIi'l going t~ Moroccotobe executed, crossed the es'Cort'sway,à.Iarge castle was reach~cd, the name whereof, as on this occasioncommunicated, taken fmm an;Âràbtribeat:llQllg .. whom itis·situated, .is WellediJeddi, the Ttibe·oftheGoal. But. this is p.robablya misnoUlél',' and. it is tb.e c3'Stleput.clown.inthe maps under theuame ofMediona. The sheik and some'm

TRAV}:LS IN AFRICA.an area entered by a single gateway.here.Thehorse·shoe style is prescrvedProceeding thence, the escort came to a nne lake of excellent water,of the extent of (probably) six hundredacres, by the side whereof, onthe mud, for thewater had considerably receded, a woodcock was (June)féeding.~Hereit was thewish of the European party to have halted ;chiefly indeed to try~ induced by the noveltyof the sight, what theycould do witbtheir guna: ·bût the alcaid insisted on proceeding an hourfurther ; which was in consequence done, andllaltcaHed in a bog.Tothis arrangementthe Christians on their parts asstrenuously objeeted.Halfan bou1' further was consequently marched; and we dismountedfor the Di:ght in a delightful spot, to the eye at least, by the side of asmaller Jake.Thé country during the route of yesterdsy was plain, or slightly un...dulated in very extensive easy swells: it was weIl cultivated in parts,and elsewhere promised in the due season abundance ofgrass. But the,richness of the tract which pres€mted itseJf during the entire course ofthisday excèeds aU imagination or parallel. Of course here littleinterestillg presents itself to the geologist. The soil to any depth thatean he turned up is a soft, black, vegetable mould, apparently the decompositionofredundant organized matter for a succession ofages. TheeaI'th has a soap:y feel, and on it is frequently seen an aluminocus or nitrouseffiorescence:it produces crops lb. the luxuriancy that may besupposed, and to aU appearance would do so in eternal succession:wnere fn friche, which isoften the case fo.r the whole extent of awide horizon, rank weeds now in full yellow blossonl, wild mustard orfennel wave over it in one vast glnw, loading the air with their effiuYia,and raising their heads to aheight ofeven nve feet; so thata foot-man1S nearly lost in this fores! ofannuaIs, \vhich ~choke aIl wholesome vege-

tation, (their?is~tbatof the church~yard,) whilethey prove the mighty:powers orthe soU to produce and go beyond it. Twenty very numerousArab encampments were within sight.this day: but numerous as theÏl'droves must have been, there existed no trace of any impression madeby them on the bosom~of·Nature here fun wild.-As the foregoing descriptionof.\veedsprovesa so;mewhat very peculiar in the superficialsoil ofso extensive a tract~ which cannot be J~ss than forty ,miles; so inthatof a second class, where argillaceous tnatter predominates, butwhichyet is of powerful fertility, asis the case of that ofyesterday, the". gradation of productiveness .is marked with the presence of anotherweed, the tbistle, in itsluxuriant growth. This prevails tpere in aU itsvarieties; sorne are.oftheediblekind,and before they growtoo' fibrous,afford a saladby no meatis ungrateful to the traveHer.This countryherea bout, abounds .in springs. The stauding corn, probably in part"owing to therankness of itsgrowth as weU as the humidity of the soiland gradation of climate, is not yet turned entirely: a considerablequantity is yet uncut.29These corn tracts are picturesque in tbeir way,being interspersed with many groups of fig-trees in aH their dusk ofverdure. Four saints' houses were passed in this day's route. They, chosetheir positions weU. In such tracts of this countryas,( different from thela~dsjust descril>ed,are dry, the soil having a stra,titied pudding-stone 0);breceiabasis, (the,difference if n:ot ~material is important,) numeroustnQ.;tatnores (~uch:is the m~me given them by ChristiansheFe)are fouud:the.8panish word isma:Z1no'J'T'{t. They are su.hterraoeou15 ..receptacl~sforcoro, Or granaries, narfOW at the top, so a~ barely to admit the body ofa man to .descend into them, but they widen below into the space of alarge I~oom. They are often to the number of thirty. together, when aconvenient substratum for thaî extent presents. itself~ emsar mentionsthe practice as of time· immemorial.They prove the extel1t of the

30 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.ancient population ofthis country.The stratum of alluvial cCillformation,of agglutinated pebble, is thin, and it is probable a dilapidatronfrequently takes place below From what it js in our power~o observe wtMontserrat, where this process lS marked in the strata,.soas...to formthese vacuities naturaHy; or to Ieave but Iittle to be done hyexcava...tian. At any rate, it is probable that sncb c.onveniency originaHy presentingitselffirst suggested the idea. The substance beingmuch softerwhere wroJ\lgbt intQ heIow than at its superficies, the latter once pierced,that heneath was easily extracted, and a hardroofle:f!~ impe;rvious:to,and unabsorbent of, humidity•. When filled with grain they are coveredovercarefuHy; and aperson unacquainted with the process would won,.der how the year)s harvest, which covered the country so plentifuIIy,could have been so suddenly disposed.of.They are so numerous inmaqy places that, being nowdisused, and theg;round about them overgrownwith bushes, they render riding off the trodden road a matterofsome risk.They afford conveniency te tbe Arahs te avoid tax,.ation: though. their masters have instinctive faculties>in this science,DOt easily to he deceived. 8ometjmes.they and theil"centents are sawellconcealed, as notto berecovered again un]ess hy chance.1: 1 beeorn remains to allY period unimpaired.The wheat here is of a verydry quality, near1y appmaching to wnatour millers ,termsteely.'IheArab~s keen eye sQJ:uetimes discovers a matamore wnere. it is Dot su~spected. He goes out before sun~rise, whena slight mistlurks uponthe ground; and when this rises, wherever its skirts dwells lQng~stonthe surface, Ile seeks, for a matamore, and is qftencoRlpensatedforbistrouble.Itinerary.-Monoccô to TANGrER.$i~thDa!/s .Route.~The road liesacrOiS what is called the Great Plain, which extEmds in every directiontlDeedays journey. Bere is's()me cornsown :hutitlleface.Q..f ..:th.e....country

îsb'y vast hercls of caUle, the property of Arabs, who'were ~xtremely al1xious to know if the Gibraltar market were likely tobédpen.edanew to them.3tThis cireurnstance is a tolerably strong specImenof the natural resources 'of this country, its powerfulredundance,.ànd thê~~tetehedpolicywhichgoverns it, whel1 so small an outlet beingaffect to suchat~motè extent. TheTangier market toucheda radius of two hundred miles; and this thestate shuts for a wretched bribe paid into the hands of the head of ie.Several laItes bordered hy thickets of high reeds, navigated in arksmade of buUrushes, "hieh plants are here some nine feet long and aninch diametel'tIf,. 'abd"ahôunding in water-fowls of various descriptions,.were' passed wasacastlêwhetei~ was a mosque nâmed from theSaint, Baadi AJi]jelassfn.~fIerêistrlâtterfot'thephilologist. Next(descending) }Vas cfosseda rivermotion,lvinfting, through adeep andflat valley of most luxuriànt ,'erdnte in its deepest tint. Herethe cool breezes of the west first made therriselves felt, and an alterationin the tints of the atmosphère on that side announced that a superficiesof different elemeht was refiected there.Twepty-threeArabcamps and four sanctorea were passed' in thisd'ay'sroute, eachind~eâtorYOfthefatnès$ofthèlând; At duskofevening theIliQ'ir'4ht't hA,lt'A't'1 "''û'IJ~cIYt::~rt0M'eS'V'~tUS'+ &f?'~èdala,srtaated foar miles distant frOIDtheJEnîranceintôthrs town (by intlde1s at least)wasthe courtesy\vould'afthatlatehoJJr havecôtl.1plîrnellt.-The pleasant spots of thislldw.+arid tract;théi+au&eso+fthe irÔ'ûtê,. èânsiit of a cool vleU, a few trees,and a Htde green herbage.Of what is Qiffused over the face of whole-k A cluster ofthese tied at top a.nd bottom, and let expand in the middle, still here presellts theradical idea w:bence has l-i~11 the noble science of ship-building.,

TRAVELS IN APRlüA.Nature in Britain, a rood here constitutes a paradise.afforded by repose and coolness, to the trayellehours of incessant progress under a scorclling sin its evening rays than when vertical. Agratification.Itinerary.-MoROCCO ta TANGIEa. Se'Vertthrise (two 0'dock in the morning) the escort, mt moon':.., to cross the riwhile the tide was low., Two were according d ,previouslyreaching the ca~tl the found acob Almal1zof the Moiadi d and ]ast ripassed, a convoy 0money on its'dered recentlcoffers had been attacked and plun:.ajesty sent anar[))y to live at free quarterson the Ara s of then uring di who certainly did hotcommit the outrage) formonths; during wbirch ,they were ob:-liged to payas well as m the tf But the robbers never .'were hrought to justice.ROBAT was reached ai threetown on the sea coast"bank whereofis thefamoof ancient derivation.station, wassomewhere to the east. The escortencampedwaBs of Robat,near a sanctoreum and burying..grou:n'ted by theFrench consul and some Jews of Gibralat and Salleeseem to frown at eaeh other acro~s this fi lich is about asbroad as the 'l'bames behnv the bridges, be'.with cùrtainsthiekly studded with towers, in tiers (the curtai e above another.The walls are, as usual, flimsy; and here are 110 modern defences.main battery of Robat is à la M01'esque, circular and unfianked i in.ea..pable of making any impressionon. an obj.ect by'a c9noensed tire. The

~~ ,~.

ARCHITECTURE, ETC.ssblendingsof towers, trees, oIrl walls, and mosques, over anoble river (when the tide is in) form features truly picturesque. Butin a considerable degree to countervail this impression, are de c6té withthesethe fiat roofs and unbroken fronts of the l\

34 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.attack on the property, or perhaps lives, of his subjects,was that leastlikely to reach its object.The Sultan's dockyard lS on this river, and he has DOW here on thestocks one vessel.As soon as the hulls are so far finished that theycan be floated, the ships are sent round to Larache.The people heredonot choose that Europeans should visit this latter place; and, inconsequence, assign reasons, frivolous enough, against it. For the trucone is, that they do not like that the despicable stat~ .. of their navyshould beseen by them. This once so 'formidable bugbear on the seasconsists of ten vessels, thelargest not equal to sorne ofour brigantines,iJl-appointed~clumsily rigged, and commanded by unscientific men. AUis great or otherwise by comparison. How diffèrent the times now, fromthose when 1Vloorish cruisers lay underLundy Island in our channel,to intercept the trade going from Ireland to the fair of Bristol!By theinformation of the pilot of an American vesselnO'\! here, a Swede, wellacquainted \Vith the harbour of Larache, it i8 an excet:ditlllllygood one.,safe from all winds, and capacious.. The ~arca~ollly~e passed athigh water, but .within thcre is at aU tÎIlles three fathomsand a haIt:,M. Mure, the French consul here, possessed that ki~dofgeneral knowledgewhich, exclusive of rendering a person, by the enlatgement ofthe mind, fiUer for office than mere technicality canaspite to, is ableto stretch research into lines tending more circuitously, put not less essentiallyto the benefit of the nation he serves.This gentleman possessed,too, a mind which,when official1y désœuvré, d~dnot lapse into indolenceand aIl its consequent train of 10w gratifi.cations, }:mt employedjtself in abjects of remoter investigation.Such were the Volneys andSavarys, to wllom, in whatever divérsity oflight things may have struèkthelll, it catlluot but be admitted that their country and the great publicof mankind, the thinking part of the humaI} race, are infinite.ly indebted.

JHIOPS AND MARKETS. 35'l'hey wer~ men whose minds were enlightened before they left hom€ ;whose facuJties were neither evaporated into frivolity nor benumbed bypedantic restrictions; and a foreign situation gave merely a due scopeto their action.Sucb are the persons to be chosen for tbese situations..The main street here presents a v,ery good exhibition of shops in theOrientai} style; that is, like cohlers' stalls; just Rufficient to contain themerchant and his Iittle stock ofgoods, or rather perhaps of sampIes.Probably there is very sound réason for this system of procedure: retailean be catried on cheaper than in splendid establishments.day-light, the tradesman comes from his dwelling, which i8 at anotherpart of the town, unlocks his shop, and sits here until night. Thetraders are roostIy Jé\vs.-If trade be thus monopoHzed by the Jews, thepath of militar, glory hy Negroes, and fustic establishment by theArabs, it may weil be asked \Vhat is to become of the Moûrs? It 18douhtful if these last could answer the question. Manufacture is entirely,however, in their hands; but aH are not mahufacturers.AtThis is.another point of view wherein to take the extraordinary political phœnomenonwhich this country (so weIl known) presents toreilection; towit,.Man, constitûting a nation, yet appropriated to employment and live­Iihood by races! But toconc1ude with our market, or bazar more properly:-duecare18 taken to secure it hy Jocks and watchmen duringthenight. As ta the.provIsion-markets, that for vegetables here is remarkabJywell supplied, very cleanly kept, and (for the first hours afthe day)a mostpleasing sight. The 'tlesh..markets àre (hy that ju~ici{)us regulationwhichputs Europe ta shame) here, as every where cIse in thi8country, outside the towns. AlI at this place tends, to prove, that remotenessfrom the eye, and consequently from the hand, of power, is.here the greatest blessing life can bestow.dilapidation.The castle is in progress ofThe most remarkable piece of structure is the towerF2

36 TRAVELS IN A,FRICA.of Harsan, as it is called.tbereabout.Jt 18 of the heightof two hundred feet, orAn elegant viHa lS building fiere for the. Sultan, inUienew style of architecture, und'er the direction of a renegade.But thisrenegadeis:aSpaniard! UnquestiorJablyllÎs talents'\terenôtlil\iely tomeet withmuchencouragement athome;The doors and roofs are ingiIt arabesques on ated ground: the expertness of the MooHsh'handi..eraft-mehwas very' striking to snch aS àbserved the progressof the1 work. Separate ftom thi5, bilt near if, lS: a srnaH house building for; theSultan~sl1aràm.interest.Of course it'was 110W" âccessible, amâ therefore excitedDue care tothe comma:nd of water, thatfirst ôfobjects here,prevailed througlîortt'. ',Phe n1ain aqueduct orthe place is the work ofan ·EngIlsbrenegade.rrhe style of these honses i8 light, tasteful, airy,andcongenial with the climate :-colonnades for shade', opposite foldingcloors for thorough air; fountains throwing upwater far refreshmentof thatwithin;alcaves ôr recesses forchll'kness (a realluxury whennoon-tide glare prevails withont), aH 'are principleso,f architecture inthis country foundedon the true basis, experience and teÎJfSCJ!l'f'~The accommodations of, the haram have some refinet'tIenfs whichhave tlCJf§ yetgottentolYecataJoglledamong the elegarrCÏesof Europe.lncense (not the metaphysical incenseofflattery or compliment, butsncb as smokedin days of yore ullder the marble n08trils of the gods oftheheathens}cnrls round its living and fair objècts by mastingeniousand efièctual è'bntrivances.As to the bombardrnent of this 'town by the I?rench, the effect wastrifling,even to mockery.rphemode ofbuildingis sueh, thata ballisreceived intoit as intoa woolsack. The marks on thé sanctOrellm, hô\vover,are still pdinted out tôCht'istians \vithall a:.ir of remini8cent te..proach; as ninch as to say, "J3ehold yout'\vorl-::sF' Thebiusiness, ho'\"­ever, ended very serionsly fôr the Fûmcl1. A hostHè visit a4Varm

TRIFLING EFFECTS OfF THE FRENCH BOMBARD1VJ:EN'l'. 37recepüoni ,fr(}:m these4\{ricans, as was round tobe the case here as weIlas at AIgiers.As Europe was at peace, and the }'rench bw'eau de guerrea sinecure ror the time, the minister at the head of thatcdepartmentthought this country a.,conveglent, fieldofexhihitiog {or thedisplay ofproressionaLor oflici~l talent,f;md in theresult certaintly got a le8son ofva]utf, "v:bithiwill notbè&oonforgotten. Bombardment, which ls themost' costly mode of warfare to ,th.ose W;hoJemploy it, and which faIlsheaviest on private individualswhere it i8inf.licted,giveslittle concernto GQvernment here, and the least possible return therehy to those whoplay the game... Itlllay occasionallyelsewhere gratiry the happy wielderof the thunderholts ta know thats0l11e sighs and tears aI'ethe result ofhismischievoU$lanticsf:but ,tltisis·not thecasewith the resigned Mussulmap,who hears the' amictioJil! w,jjthStoical.cahnness, and the observationthat "It lS the will ofGoD~FlrheSQlt.an.,Q'll reconciliation withFra~ce,at the firstpp0t;:Lunityasked how:much (evcr bis basls of calculation!)this fa~ous expedition had cost that power; and, on beinginrormed, told the amhas8ador, that roI' lmlfofit he would have levelledthe town to 'its fou;l1dations!Jtinerary.--MoROO€Ô tofrA~(nER.EightltDay. SA LEE~The escortcr08sed tl)€ rlv;erto Salee. Thepeliteness of the governor (there i8 agovernoFto eaeh Itown) lteptit for two;hours bythe river sideundera scorching's/'un, tha~ he mightreeeive ît i\vith due;· distinction. Southof therivèr;tnettact j'Ust left, the soil is {ertile, ar[Sil1aceous, plain,and not muoh etdtivatedJOn landing at Salee, the governor of the to\vn and province (theoJlices 'being;üriitedi110t;)e person)l"eeeivedthee&eort on horseback,at the :headofhilstroops; with a bandofmu$lc asobstreperously discordantas iti$ in thepowet ofwind, parchment, and eat-gut, acting incombination, to he; and an unusuaHy liberal expenditure of powder

38 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.from the battlements ~às an honour not to be passed by unàcknowledged.The Arabs playon a guitar peculiar to themselves, and &ing to it~Theil' music, for it lDay daim this epithet, is wild, but harmonious, andreachesthe heart; thus pleasing, though in a style quite new, evenfastidious Europeans. This praise cannot be bestowedon the ,taste ofthe Moors, which seems completely led astray: it is the Arab taste,from which that of the Spaniards is derived. But indeed the latterpeople, however f(}nd of their own now~ational.musie,fuUy enjoy anything in that way, letit bederivedJromwliat quarter it may; as is con.stant)y t~ be ohserved.at theirtbeatres, where it isinterestingto seehowawhole audience is caught, instantly, by apleasing movement.Salee has. considerable extent within ils walls, but is .not so .populous110W as Robat, having muchgarden-ground il) its .area, probably.theresult of dilapidation fromthe decline oftbepl'Îvateel'ing,;or,.in.a termas appropriate, the piratic system. These gardensare weUcultivate~,and arewatered from a.n aqueduct .within ithe :precin:ctof thetown,whieh, for a11 that is to he seen .of it, constit.~t~sa

· SALEE ..........S 0 ME LOOAL PECULIARITIES. 39':rhe argalior wHd olive ceases to grow at this river, there being noneon its north side; a'circumstance whiéh indicates a materialchange ofdimate. Anothel' of notso demonstrable, or at least so obvious a nature,perhaps .of not so clear credibility, is, that no hares are on the northside,no rabhits on the south, although eath species abounds within itsrespective territory. This ispositivelya&se-rted by tbose weU qualifiedto know the factoA European gentleman of the embassy, during its stay here, l'am bledinto the tÔWD by himself; and aftel' proceeding soIlle distance in it, meta. Moorvery handsol11e]y dressed, and followed by two servants; oneof whomthiscourtool.1spersomige, 'whoever hewas, after passing thestranger, sent back to attend bim wherever he chose to go, as was signi.ficantly expressed;withpl'ofound:rêspèêt; the: master himself, with a ~efinemeatofp6liteness, proceeding onward, Ileither looking for thal'lksDor introduction.Itinerary.-~IoRocco tOTANGIER. Tent/II Day. SALEE.-Theescort waited for two' houts for the governotfo take his leave. When hedicl arrive, he was,excessivelyangrywithouralcaid for havillg, for somereasonunaeeounted for to US, exeept the gratification itafforded, beatenhis (thegovèrnor#s)J.ew;s:aying, that th()'Ugh a Jew, yet having the flOnourofbeing nia, hewa;sinot tobesoitreated. Proteetionisthus soughtfor illpatronttge, where Jaws>atférdnone.TheJ precedent ;eaeh of whom l'eadily lent a handtothe pîous work. Hernade neiillerresistance nol' remonstfan'ee,>,bat'ranto the tO'\fD and, complained.~rhè aleaid apologized byprotèstin.g thatheclid notknow the feUowhad the honour'of belonging to bis exéellency; aIld.that, if hehad, hewasthe last man in the world tohare taken sueh a liberty with hisperson ;which was in affect the tl'uth.

40 TRAVELS IN, A Flt..1 CA.This governor (l;3.~§sa soi..dis«nt) was arremar,kabJy large audâI:mhandsome man, whichhe. seem~dto be v,eTY.Wel1a,Plprizedof. He lVassupe,rbJymolVlted, and ."Vas cladilf~9m,b~ad,tp t'ptipthe fipest mu§lins..lIe possessed aIl the air anddepor~llDel1tQf8.r.IlDa,n of consequ(mce.Quitting now Salee" the e~GprtpfQceeded.. uorthward pythç sea-side,having ou the right, or to the cast, the grea~ wood of M.anllora,.(wbichextends six days journey into the country,) chiefly of evergreen oak,and whence their dckyards drawtp.eirs;t1pplies.lVIAltMO~A.-Sia' hours.-.Marmora is (l .. fprtified .. towllwith acastleon,. tl!.e fiyer Ce,bi.h whiçh floW~ fr

RIe HNE8S OF THE PASTURES. MUSQU ITOiS, ETC. 41of maiataining'it.The country around was thickly studdedwith Arabcamps.. Several islands are in these lakes.tberemotest periods, chosen for holy purposes.The Tiber had its sacredisland., the site of the mysterious serpentine ritlla1.Insular situations are, fromOn each ofthese, here, is a sanctoreum; lrhich, its roof covered with gray tUesrcflecting the' sun's blaze, enlivens the scene. Nineteen large Arabcampswere cOllnted thisday; but the country was so flat that the expanseof the view was very Jimited.From several they brought excellentmilk (these pastures give it a richness of which Europe cao supply11Q idea), pure, or compollnded with other ingredients, the latter verygond, asubstantial mess inwhich CUSCUSlt hada part.serves to~eeutitledaland flowing with milk and honey.This truly de..Arab hospitality,however,although it is 'here no more than the difi'usion'of SQ"pertluity, is not in these degenerate days exercised gratis.; norcan aHthis good exist lvithout some annexation' of eviJ.. At our evening encampment" in these watery districts, warning had been given to use everyprecaution of whieh our tents admitted the adoption, against the aecesso(mosquitos; too diminutive an epithetftH' sueh a fônnidable race.The warning was of noavail.'fhe tents \Vere closed with the utmostcare; hut no sooner was the fatal measure of lighting tlie .candiesa'dopted, direccting tbese eolumns upon their pointaf attack, (and of theattraction whereof no apprizalhad been given, but which seemed thesignal for general assault,) than myriads forced their way in with suella sanguiuaryfury, determined as they Wel'e to give no quarter, that al!thoughts, save of self-defenee, were completely put an end to fol' thenight. Paper masks and mitteus, loose clothing, extinguishing light

TRAVELS IN AFR ICA.the morning it was hardly possible to recognise each other's faces.They drew bloud from the horses; and it was by clint of vigilant andpowerful watching, that the latter were prevented an night breakingfrom their piquets. Nature teems here with life, and this is oneoftlleevils of it.MOROCCO to TANGIER.-EleventhDay. The march cOlmnencedat daybreak, in thick fog; the latter a natural result of thecircumstancesof the soil. The route crossing the northern head of the Jake,at a branch the depth whereof brings the water to the horses~shoulders,with a muddy bottom, enters a wood of oak, in which the trees forthe Plost part bear the marks of 6re. Here the guard seemed to entertainapprehensions, and consequently loaded their fire-arms. Quittingthe wood. an extensive and fertile plain was nextentered upon,with a large lake on the Jeft of the l'Qute; and after severalhoùrs~march, order was given to haIt, in gardens running into i aH the lux.~riancyof neglect, of a vinage, whence a plenteou~ supply of rich newmilk, honey, bread, and the finest white figs ever tasted, put themost romantic speculations ever fostered by epicurism to a distance.Proceeding after an hour's rest, at sun-set Al K·asr was reached, seatedon the bank of a deep and rapid river, which discharcges at Larache,and surrounded for two miles distance by a fiat of meadow, of a verdureand luxuriancy to which, out of these soils and cJimates, noparallel can be produced. This is a considerable but Ilot populoustown: it is dirty, straggling, atld diJapidating in its interior, but environedby gardens and orchards walled, the trees of the interior protrudingtheir luxuriant heads and foliage over and beyond the battle­:r;nents. The general appearance of the place, especially towal'ds evening,is most picturesquely gIoomy. 1t was built at the close of the nv'elfthc-Tntury by Jacob Ben Joseph, surnamed El Mansot'. Thetown has

AL KASR, WHERE DON SEllA8TIANFELL. 43tentnosqucs: the houses are of brick, and different From whatis eIse7where seen in Barbary, with ridged or wood roofs covered with red tHe:a due submission to the mandates of climate and reason.One of theembassies ofthe commencement of the Iast century, or the chronoJogistof it, whoseems to bavetruly been a " much-enduring man," is veryangrywith that which pœceded it,for taking notice ofsueh a dirtyplace.vVe are the sport of circumstances.Here feH Don Sebastian, and theflowerof the nobility of Portugal. But he arose again aJone. His waIkinghas given the governmentof Portugal sorne trouble at times: sucha strong hoJd has whatever il; incredible upon the credulity of mankind!Theitegiom: of theselakes, or of the river here, seems a natural de,.marcation ofclimate, like the river ofSalee. A universal verdure pre~vails now to the north, which isnot the case on the other side. AUe~ploratorycuriosity, aU solitary meditation to which· the scenery .go at..tractively led, were baffled, how.ever, by t.he malignity and impertinenceof the rising generation, which exceeded aU that had ever been seen inthat way ofannoyance since our arrivaI in the country. They fOl'med forattaek into squadrons,advanced to the charge with the perseverance andreiteration of''Veterans, and thus continued assailing us in our veryc8IUp,

44 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.and very deJiberately disembarrassed fromhis feet tethers a handsomegray horse, the property of an alcaid of twenty'!"five men, wlüch \Vaspiqueted opposite tohis master's tent in the centre of the camp; am)qlonnting, walked hirù with apparent unconcem out of the precinct.The rnorning was hazy; and as soon as he thought himse1f out of mUSquet-shot,the thief clapped one of his hands in derision, and giving ftlou'd 1augb, drove his heeIs into the horse's sides, and" like a sprite, wasout of ken in an instant. AlI were astou,nded" and looked at, eaebother to discover, if they thus could, what ,wasto he done. Euttherewas, in fact nothing to he don~; the case was hopeless, and aH bustIeunavailing. Horse..stealing has this peculiar conveniencc, that thecrime cornes in aid of the escape. 'rhe pooralcaid was under the ne...cessity of executing the remainder of his journey on foot.-There wasDOW an evident wish on the part of the chiefs to iprotract the durationof:the jonrney, and this in order toadd to the days of pay. Still, thisevening a sight of CapeTrafalgar in Europe was obtained, a,lnl the;chineasterly breeze of the Straits felt. In the course of,this,day fourriverswel'e pélssed; their banks würn away showeduilany,feet perpendicularlyof rich vegetable eartil. They are bordered toaconsiderable distanceby flats ofmeaclow, and these aresl

ARAD CAMPS. LIONS, ~TC. 4.5valence of one in regard to the other, is a very significant criterion ofthe progress out of barbarism.Twenty-seven Arabcamps were cOllnted this day. As Mount Atlas byhis trunk converges in here, the animaIs ferce naturce abound; a~d insteadof the auteIope,which indeed is seen only to the South, the wildboat predôminates, and is 1'ecognised by his traces in the humid' soit'J'hough an ~object of abhorrence, he affords sport to the Moo1's, who goout in large parties on horseback to shoot him, piquing themselvesonhitting the animal c1o

46 TRAVEL8 IN AFRICA.weIl; eachspring îs not less than twenty feet. But the harse makes abetter caIculation than man, and is quite as l'eady to getrid of tbisburthen, as the latter is of his clothing. On smelling the Ijon,which hedoesatan inconceivable distance, hé recognises him instinctively,thoughfor the tirst time, and gaUops off at full speed, doing his utmost to disemharrasshimselfofhisload, in a true spirit ofparty accommodation, ata mutnal sacrifice of the third interest. 'l'hose who frequent thesemountains tind itexpedient ever to rely implicitly on the ipstinct oftheirhotses.l'our Arah.camps,"vere pa:ssèd on .. this day; the mountain is uncongeniaIto thisrace.MOROCCO to TANGIER. Thirteenth day.-On approacbing Tangier,the country becomes IDountaino\ls. The mountain participates ip. tllegreat organization of Nature, ha.ving its skirts of selüst. The nativeslive in small hamlets; and their huts are(~onstructed offrame-work ofwood covered with:rushes orreeds. 'fhe country herebrea~s.~~lHP9P~peeyein.close, precision withthepoet's description upou the}nemory;-" Jamql1e procuJ Demorum rime se attollere frondesSurgere congesto non culto mapalia culmoProxima Leptis erat;"-And Lelupta Was a'place of ancient note in Barbary, seeU1in~ly not remotefrom these .districts. The son of the alcaid, a young man of aninteresting and very modest aspect, came out from Tangier to meet theescort under his father's commando They han not seen each other nowfor upwards of two years. The young man tbrew himself off his mule,l'an upand kissed his fatherJs stirrup. The fatller raised his hand, and •bestowed on him his blessing in patriarchal gravity. No inquiries. orquestions passed on either side; and the son, joining in th~ cprt~ge, follQwedhisfather. Arriving unexpectedljr, much dust aDdgunpowder

EXCLUSIVE TRADE OF ';l'ANGlER. 47was escaped, and we dismounted quietly at our quarters.Seventy-fivesoldiers(and no more) continued with us to Tangier, out of two hundnM,the full complement at our departure from Morocco; theresthaving detached themselves as they approached their respective residences.Thosewho came here had started very early for a militarylife: theycould not, for themost part, have been,above eighteen yearsorage at that time. Such 18 probably the system here. Th~y gave us,by their eonduct, notwithstandinga few surmiscs by the wa:N during a.tolerably long acquaintanee, no reason to depreciate them in the generalseale of mankind.'rANGlER.--'fhe Sul.tan offered the exclusive trade of this place atthe commencement of the siege ofGibraltar toBritain: but the barbarian~sproposaI was treated ,vith neglect; and,as sorne say,with derision.The ridiculousness of his presuming toClaim an interest in such a thing,is said to have been descaQted on in England in a very humorous way.Due care was bowever taken that he should feel himself insulted.then offered it to Spain, and obtained considerably higher tenns than,he had asked from England.deep impression on the royal mind.HeThe transaction appears to have made aHe had contrived to make theformer treaty a rich one for himself; for, by it, live stock was to havebeen expol'Û~d for British use dutY free; but by successive encroachmentsatising out of the. supineness of those who ought to have advertedto sucb things, his majesty contrived to get a. duty establishedhere, four doHars pel' head (1) black-cattle, and six ounces on sh'eep.-·The policy of the great gm1ernor of Gibraltar of the d~y (,1785),is to,dispense witb aU Arricau supplies to his0peop1e here that he can do without them.garrison, and to convince theThus has commenced awarfareofnegations and privations; and this town,. formerly a place ofconsiderable bustle, now languishes-.

48 TRAV.ELS IN AFRICA.The castle had shortly previous to our arrivaI here been much Înjuredby the blowing-up of the m~gazine. As a Moorish fortress, it isby the closeness of the embrazures more picturesque than formidable.The Swedish .embassy, yet here, performed its journey with much ease.takingtw'Cnty-two days to go yver what the British did in eighteen. Itis delayed here by~the ves'sel, which conveyed it to Mogodor, yet remainingbeating up the coastagaitlst the steady north breeze.TheSultan had presented the Swedish amhassado,r with an iu(]itferent horseand tw.o :very inditferent travelling companions-ostriches: ..~ Ieg ofoneof them:was broken in forcing upon the animal the n.ecessity of COfilmittingitself to an .element new to it, at the ferry of Bulaghuan.It must be indeed a barren mind which could avoid treasuring up, ina journey such as is here related, ample matter for reBectionduring tl.~eresidue oflife.The ha4"vcst of travcUingdoes not ripen inimediately.Very few indeed are abJe at once to say t1'\ey have made the most ofwhat theyhaveseen.Theproofs whieh the observer's eye daily meetswith, how much matte, of an obvious nature too lulsesçaped otll,ertrav.ellers, nlust make him d.iffident.In reviewing the tract of theearth reçently passed over, it is obviousthat its constitution,howevcr divt~rsified,is cutirely alluvial. The countryeastward from MogQdor to lVIorocco is evidently a substratum;one, at lea:!t~ having been washed away, as appears by the proof patehesheretofore described as now extant, to c1ec1areto the fact.The wholetract is covered with reduced dilapidation, either horn-stone~ trapp, orbasaIt.This part of the Great Plain from the Atlantic to the sea hasa rapid descent, as is ascertained by the directness of the courses of therivers, as weU as their rapidity.North of the stony part to Bulaghuan,the argillaceous tract has its ~ndulatedform hy the wash ofwaters, andis diversified 80 into valleys: but the elevationsall preSCl!t.,olle leve!.

DEPTIl OP SOIL.-ATJIAS, ETC. 49'This tractaf soi'l is proved by the banks of the rivers,or rather by tbevaIl~ysthrough which they run, to be ofgreat depth ; and the inclinationof the plain which it forms, clips considerably westward.. Sueh is thecase northward to the latitude of Salee. A considerable deviationfrom this degree of i;nclination is perceived ful'ther ta the north; andthis is demonstrable bythe.waters, the rivers winding in more numerousandbolder sweeps, and the elemente:xtending into lakesove1'the plane. This takes place more particularly towards the coast, wherethe impl:1lse of the oceal1has formed an embankment to cause this returnofthe water. Thecounteracting level, or inclination, has thus con­$tituted,whatsome wauJd he rathe1' surprised to flnd here, a humidtract. Fratsever;y appearanee, theR, thecauntry in the latitade ofFezwestward 10 thecaast, jud~ing;bythemeandering of tlle rivers mnchmore tllan by theeye, is nearJ;y.a water.level ta the foet af MarIlltAtlas, one .'Qf... whose limbs isprotruded ta the Straits, while his mainbody follows nearIy the outline of the coast of the Mediterranean, tOhis utmost terminationat the Falls of the NiJe. The western shore ofthis tract is in its northern ,part,a5 for instance at Salee, boldo This lSthe tract of second inclinatian already described. Southward, theffif:>stinclinedofthe tbree plains has itsshare cansistently merging easilyit1}ito the le~~el of the ocean: hence the tower of Mogodorls the ohiefcOnslJiouous .objeot O'r:1 'thé coast. There isa great in-set of the oceanou aIl thiswe8'tern caast,as ihasbeen toofatally known to many. Thisis the return J@fthewateJlsseeking their level fPOI1l the operation oftherade winds; anddu.fing allsummer a systematie influ'x of atmosphereprevails fpo,mthe Horth downthis coa8t, to sU'pply thedeficiency ofequilibrium caused Jby rarefaction at the etIuator. Such are the unif01'111law8 wl1el~eon tJa;ture acts. In conseqùence of the in-set of theocean and prevalenceo:f westerly winds during the win ter BeRson, withV DL. II.II

50 TR.AVELS IN AFRICA.the tremendou& surf thereby caused, the harhours here are barred,. andof course subjectedto one very serious incouvenience.would, however, be an exception to this.El ValadiaPoliey and commerce cry aloud, and both natttreandartshould bemoved, to accomplish the opening the inhospitable coast qf this redundantcountry.But to none does the appeal SOc fo1'ciblyaddress itsdfas to the nation which leads in commercial enterprise.Africa, indeed,see~s now the only part of the globe perfectl,Y: freeJor ;theiQt1toductionof adventure and speculation, and it is.iIikcely ctoicOjlltinu.edio fullylong enough to reward the trouble andrisk. The attempts, howeveJ:',if any take place in this direction, must be made upon ,a scale verydiJferentin every respect from aught hitherto done in thatway.But toc revert to the mai Il and conclusive article-Geology.h isto beobserved, that no trace of volcanic operation~ppears. In theoutlinesof Atlas himself the1'e is nothing that indicates the existence in anyformf:lr day of a crater. This is by no means conclu~ive; but it'ilsstrongly presumptive: at any rate it renders iQ'restigationt11c

SEA VOY AGES.•...z-CURRENT UP THE STRAITS. 51terest afa reader l'uns by no means corollary with the leisure of àwl'iter.At aliy rate, sea-voyages are best written by nautical men, forthe cause of science; the sentiments and impressions of others inthe predicament being uSl.lâlly, and natural1y enough, a repetition ofthe wailingsoftedil,ltnandgrievance.But it is worthy of remark whattrivial incidentsinterestu'S i;nreading such narrations, participating aswedo in the impression whichthe ohjects, ·light as they are, make atthe momentnpon the mind of him who observes them.A very frailand crank .boat, manned by a crew of three individualsand descriptions, (a 8paniard, a M·oor, and a renegade,) who employedtheil' ileis'tilretimeintheological discussions, under a very un prornisingsky, was'asituwticm litt~eealctllated to encourage the thought ofmakingexcursions far from home: iand;a quarantineon the little patch ofrockand sand opposite to Tariffa, called by our sailors Parsley-1sland~ratllerinducedthe nlÏnd to brood on immediate sensations.1nquiry and. l'efiection,however,are not to be entil'ely baffied: and as to the 6rst, it ismost strongly asserted by several, in contradiction however, be it obsel'ved,to prohably an equ~l number, that the current does not alwayssetup the Straits in the rniddle of the channel.It is a subject whichhas.afforded matter for many hour8 ofdoughty argument, and will for.nl!~lly!m()re. 1"act$, too, are arrayed on either side in loud and boastfulcompetition.But aUthatisha.Hbe said in the present case i8, thatpeoplc\vho live in,ôn,and by the ohjectso much descanted C.>Il, aqdwhohaNeno intercstin i.t asrnatterofdispnte, declare such to be thecase.Comsnltingthepil1ocess of nature, introducing sornewhat of a l1atio!naleintothebusiness,thismuc>hc.ertain; tlrat a shallower sea underthe same latitude (and this!wil:l operate more fuNy if warmth ofclimate come in ,ai~l)will bave motè evaporationthan the deeper pne:iuul if this evaporation be sostrong as tomore than countervail the11 2

TRAVELS IN AFRICA.influx of the rivers which fun ioto it, there must thenbe.aregular jo..se~ofthe nature here spoken of, subject perbaps occasionaUy to small de..-dations.Geryon, the proprietor of numerous he1"ds,. IS now our next neighhour,haviog left our friends under the protection of his opposite, Antœus,.or at least his heir and successor; for,.wilether thispersonage do;actually still exist asmuch as ever, or whetherhe he, as history tellsus, and substantiates by the uncontrovertible tact of his sixty-cubit..skeleton,actually dugup,--a pretty tolerable proof;thatitt}ulusthave

PERSONIFICATIO,N.,...,;..UNIVERSE ONE VAST GIANT. 53channel deified, and ideas symbolized; so things, as for instance mountains,are personified. This procedure, so obvious and general, is trace..able throughout etymology.Bence are the opponents of the conquer.ing or incursive Hercules; the sons of Neptune; the fraternity Bergionand Albion on the Rhone ; Riphreus, an ominous sound to mariners,­and vaTious others through tbe diversities of language. .But we mustreco11ect, Whatis the universe but one vast giant? Such it presented it...self to ancient ideas.notto presentendless subject,of fable.These Straits were too frequently in rt'currenceThus,too, ancient denominations,termsfounded in the remotest radicals oflanguage, remain locallyaffix:ed tothe;present day, for such as choose to bestow time on theseinvestigations.'But this number is few; for it is easier to coin newmatter than re.cast the old : and as to authenticity, that is a quality,ofsmaH weight with mankind at large: research must be its own reward.. ~"Quaramtine is indispensabJy to be complied with Qn crossing to Eu- 'fope from Africa. The negligent habits of the Moors are too weIl known•.These people give a specimen on the subject, which proves that logic'and truth are not ex:actly the same.To the inquietudes of the Europeansat 'l'angier,, the reply was,-" Here are three thousand of us, and,ten individnals oryou. Do you imagine our lives are not as valuable tous, in OUT estimations, as yours are to you?'> Yet no cautionary mea­SUfe was taken. At Tariifa, an indulgence was first' granted to quitthe island, and i ' ,go through the period of confinement in a solitaryguard-house on the main. At the end of six: daJs the examination tookplaee. It was conductedwithperfect politencss; but much, deeper ltll-, pres$ions of commiseration and sympath~ were excited in the minds ofQUI' inspectors, in considering the bopeless future state orour wretchedrenegade, than anytbat could have heen wrought by symptoms of themost tnorbid corporeal malignity.

54 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.';fbe signal-bouse herè has a vastcommand ·ofthe Straits, as is sev~relyfelt by our merchantmen in timé .ofwar..JOURNEY FROM TARIFFA TO CADIZ.First Nigltt's Halt.-This was made with herdsmeu ln their rancho,what in America wonld be called a wigwam, built of boughs, witbhenches of sad around, strewed. with rushes ta sleep on" and a fire inthe centre.It brought ta mind the night passed by. the hero of LaMancha with the goatherds; but inaptitude intbelangl.lage.preduq·edsuch deep discourse. The accommodations of the galdenage seem .tahave been but indifferent: but these good herdsmen.in their rude circumstanceshad aU the 'courteousness assignedto it, and ..the tr~v~llersthe full extent of that accomUlOdation he was capable of extending.The face of the country is a dead fiat, and thesoilrich.me.adowland.In the mpre broken tracts, whère they present themselves with schist,heath and furze, tb.e largest. lizardsev.er seen,ofthe.greenkind,bas~uiJ;lthe sun, drawn at.ruid-day [rom their holes by the·sn}triu..ess .of t1)eweatller~ The tr~ct is fllrtber intersper~ed bywoods pfcork-tree, andis interseGted1;ly)akes with low bçrders, .clothed with high reeds, Jhe1'esort of aqu~tic birds, amongst which the crane stalksgigantically onthe verge pf the confined horizon.On this route is.passedMedina, atOWll in a commanding situation: but the ele\'ation is toP iabruipt formod~rn warfare. N ext is ellten~d Xonil, on the sea-shoreju1't north ofthe ancient Geryon (Trafalgar), the triple.,headed I1lOnstersubdlleq bythe nautic Hercules, to whom, hard by i this place, was a tem,pIe appositelyplaced. Hei'e is a tunny-fishery, which yieldsgreat re,turQs.Jtj~a principal supp1'y of not bad tooçl to Spain. It causes agreati.b~stJ~bere. No inertues~ appears toclog the ene.rgy C)fit4f;k.Span~iard,in,tb.isOÇCllI?ation.Cervantes mentions the aggregaljon.,~n,ag.edasa

TU~Nl!' FISHERY AT XONIL. .55grand academy of slang and profligacy.Two of these fish are a loadfor a Y,oke of oxen. They approach the shore in shoals. The nets arespread out and around to a considerable extent, in the expectation ofinclosing them, which they do not fail to Jo, the fish ~ontinuingswirnmingroundandroundwithin,not making anyeffort to escape, uutilthe tide·leaves them dry, wheu theyare cartedaway. Thus a vastquantity is annually taken.rrhis procedure takès place during thesummer solstice here, a tirne when, from t.he difficulty found in curingthem in our northern latitudes, the visit of a shoal of herrings ceases 'to.be a blessiog.Here they find no difficulty in what should be a muchmoredelicatepr

56 'rRAVELS fN Et11tOPE.tlid? 'Yh)", as aIl mankind must under s-ach drcumstances :...i..rnosthauses use the precaution,agains't anevilhonr, of having cisterns: butit may readîlybe jùtdoes ·'ll:@;t appeat togrow into oong.eniality. ft is finw tl:te practioeto stationi'grcPladiers inthelllayhonse among thea!udi.encetot11ai,lllta.;ilFl order; ta. thing, it mayhe observed b,theway, Spani$;hhabits lare ·of aiIl, pel-rh31ps, onearth the'leastinclined tobreak dlfough.fnnterferencê, however, of this sort ismuoh disrelished; and aninstanceoftt has just occurred.-A genJtlemansaid he wouldnotbe silent, on~ receiving ad~rice from ;tbeMentorinhisneighbourllOod,lvho so far did llÎs duty; butin cbnse

THE ROSARIO. 57'Ôf thetlational sentiment; and as the Stage lS considered here, and.~ustly,a very important influencer of the public rnind, this representationwas forbidden by the present governor, to the no 8Plall grief ofaU true Spaniards. Its revival \Vas effected from a quarter the least apprehended"froPl the very people its sacrifIce was intended to ph~ase­'the French themselves. When the cOPlbined Beets lay here, as alreadymentioned, an opportunity was seized, by the presence of the governorhimself at the theatre, and the cry of the allies of the family interestfrom an quarters of it compelled the rapresentation, endurance, and repetitionof this adoption of Negro laste. An interruption of stage bu­6inesB of frequen;trecnrrence strikes a stranger somewhat whimsically.At the sound of the hellof the Rosario (a religions procession) passing bythe theatre, aIl mimicry and aIl attentionto it are instantly suspendcd.The audience averts itself from the stage, while the dead there 1'isefor the instant to tread again. The t'yrant is seen humbled on hisknees, while the lover turns hisback on her who was the moment beforethe object of his adoration.But the charm once broken by thecessation of the bell, the living uncorrected resume their wonted views,'wilile the dead with exemplar,Y resignation ,again sink into the quiet;grave. Our East and West India Beets, as is universally known, fellinto the handsof the combined 'ones of the h0use of Bourbon, andwere~hroughtin here. Of aIl their contents, no11e excited curiosity and in...quit'y equal'to those machines caHed mangles t of which a number wereon board. The people here could form 110 idea to what purpose they\Vere applicable, but were much delîghted with them when shown theiruse.'fhey speak to that effect to this'day.AlI is,as may he supposed, immoderately dear at Cadiz, partIy owingto its sHuation, and partly ta the immense sums dissipated in it.beav'y tax is, in the national policy, levied on provisions entering theVOL. II. 1A

58 TRAVELS IN EUROPE'.gate!;. This is on the principle of hounties reversed; a regulation for Œeextinction of trades and manufactures. It is, as they say, approp:r:iatedta build the great church; but the church seems· l'ather appropriateclor ancillary to the levy of the tax, and in consequence wiU Dever befinished. It has now been i·n progress or s-tationary eigbty years-ampIetime for the foundations to settle. An aqueduct is in progress teo;,pardy en the fouf}datio~ls of the ancient one used by the Romans : itlS to be hoped iis completioa is of bettcr prospect than that of thechurch. Gaming goes through aIl its speculations, as may weIl be su-pposed-iM this- decey of the young' and heavybirds of passage from theo~her side of t!lle Atlantic to themotllCf country. From Cadiz, the voy..age is across the bay to the Puei'ta de Santa, Jl;Im,'ia for such as intend tavisit Spain. Hs d'uratioTI is an hour and a half's sail.. Bere is a miJitaryllcademy under the inspection, of Colonel O'Farrell.. This institutionthe country owes to C

'SEVILLE, THE GU ADALQUIVER, ETC. 59yet pre.dominates,is admirably designed for camfort in this c1imate:but.m,any streets here arc too narrow' for carriages.1t ls said that thi8,eity contains eight btwdred noble families. The Guadalquiver rises formidablyinJhese precipcts. In the last year (1784) it rose ta the heightof four feetin sonle of the streets, marks being made in commemorati9nofthe ,cvent. The/communication across this grcat river' is judicjouslyby a bridge ·of boats.The amphitheatre at Santi Ponce (Italica) is an abject ofcuriosity tostrangers. ' The Torre de Oro is a valuable specimen ·of Roman architecturein Hs way..The lover~t' paÏ1\1ting. ,aIso w4ll be pleased in Seville. He will seeamong mucb other interesoting matter the Descent from the Cross byCampuu@, whieh tlle celebrated Murillo passed the leisure boursof hislife in admiring~ and at the foot ·of whieh he ls,. byhisexpœssdesire~burjed. But indeed the Spanish sehool never has acquired or possessedthat interest or Î11vestigation ta whieh its merits entitle it.To look outthe n~aster-pieces of art here, is somewhat of a task, and the disadvanw:tages and toils of the traveller eool the zeal of the amateur.twenty hospit~ls;Here areand the Humber of~eggars, well dressed and in rags,i~ .incalculable. Having been banished from Madrid and Cadiz by thepolice, they havecpncentrated themselves for their flnalstau(t hete,until the time tllai they shaH be put to flight by a \,orldlOuse .powbuilding. 13utthC.Y seem determined ,ta c1ing to theü' darling ()CCllpationeven witha p~rting fondness; an attachrnent which this prQfessümseeIIls ta posse~sin the breast ofutan \Vith a .finnness to which no othercan present compètition. In aIl the e.roneous proceedings .of this geperallywcI1-intending government, we still see here, as elsewhere, theprescription.applied to the symptom.In a court adjoining to the cathedral of this dty, strangers haH\1 2

60 TIlt\VELS IN :RUROPE.poiuted:out to tbem a sepulchral inscription of toe time of the Visi.:goths, A. D. 648.It is said, a person was once curions and assiduoos,enough to count the antique columns extant here, and that theyamountto sixtY thousand; a proof what Sevil1e m,ys! have been in the time ofthe Romans.The environs here are divided, verdant, shaded, fertile, and (it neeclbard]y he added) heautiful.N othing caned for by humanlife can bewanting. The divorce effected between land and population by Mayorazgosand mortmain has càused the torpor of the upper, the disap.:.pearance of the middle, and the wretchedness ofthe lower classes; and,.but fol" the outlet the coloniesoffer, would long ere this have overthrowntl1e state.How casually applied the palliative" when Ïniatu-,atioll inflicted the disease L How this country has been the victim of'the fortunesshe worked for the rest·of mankind!How ·eveatful thereign of Ferdinand and Isabella!' The subjugation of the Moors leads·to the extinction of sciences, arts, and trades.The union of crOW!fls·leav@s the state ina situation of provincial repulsion, dctbarri!ngallhopes of national concentration. Theip~rsecutionof the Jews predudes.the aid a commuaity derives From the most useful.descri}!>tion of its 1nmates,the savers and accumulators: and as· a palliative for an this,what is presented?events.Colonization !-Such have been moral causes andSpain is to become industrious by a ltmslin.manufactory, becausésnch establishments are found in countries endowed with in'dustry.Sncb is the human rationale!The silks ofGrenada, which suppliedthe:Moors with materials for chef-d'œuvpes of manufacture, are to he puton the stlelf, for Spain to enter into competition withEngland in stuffsthe fabric of the cottons of America. This is the wise pl!oject of thepresent day; and Englishmen are found" it may weltbejudged at wllat

priee, t(.')c"arrysudha: 'prcêious scheme iuto effect. The agents and in"strume:nts are now both here. By the manner in which the formert1'avel, it appcars clearly that they have the particular patronage of6fgovernment*, while by their embarrassed demeanour under the eye ofany of their countrymen not connected with sucll: views, it is obvioustheyfeelconsiderablyashamed of \Vhai they are about. AH, however"live in a way which proves they have other resources than their ownpockets.Sorne of the inferior description had acquired a remarkable"Huen'cy in the Spanish language, iU according with the general houpgeo,isieof their appearance and manners.It was to their, misfortunethisa:cti'u'isitionwas made.. For they had evidently their education inthe low churehprinciples, and, bytheir turn for disputation, it mighthave been inferred, hadactually figured and harangued rn conventic1es...The Scriptures, and the facilityof 'renilêping thC1n into·Spanish, wereequally at thei"fihgers' ends.plishment this must he 10 Spain.It may be judged what a happy accom...It lS not in human nature to resistthe love of display.; and at a Spanish table d'ldJte it may weIl be judged'where the advantage would be.Unfortunately, tbis last êircmustancedid not renderthe matter by aught more palatable to those of the nativeswho were to hearit, and polemical di,seussions approached cldselyto the' other term for dispute~ 'l~he zeal and eomplacency of a serfereated~p08tolic mission nad completdy blinded one orator to a stormlong gatheringagainst him on the' bFOW ofa portlyAndalusian, "awfuland dark," who, athmgthunable to eontain, thunderedout his patio:ultima tothe foUowing e:ffe0t: '''':Phe same law which forhids the sacredSCl'iptures being read, forbids their 1geing suhjeet of conversation r"'If The utmost e:JÇtent to which any appearance of diplomatie establishment, which same wilLsuppose oughtto have been glancing an eye to these,thingiJ, (rom Britain, !lad hitherto reached inthis country, was in the arrivaI at Madrit of-the cook.'

'l'RAVELS IN EUROPE.}f.ore, and perhaps \Vorse, wascoming; but the address and h01ûlOmm~eofa cheerful and benevoient Biscayan, captain of a regiment in the garrison,who, with the characteristic good humouf.of his countrymen, had,by various efforts to turn or stop the conversation, endeavoured to preventthings coming to extremities, now at length succeeded in silencingone party and pacifying the other: no easy task.But his argumentfor interference was the striking part-" We foreign.ersshould be cau...ûous."A native of Biscay, a captain in the Spanish se).'vice, speakingof himself as a foreigner ,in Spaint Where, then, js the na.tion? or towhat can the nation amount? .Silence however 110W reigned, imposedby rnan(i"arnus,atld the privation of conversation \Vas more than compensatedby the 10ss of the discussion.tcmpers suit," &c."Hfis strange how sorne men'sThe fondness of the Spanish women for the delicate article of manu...facture before mentloned is very great, but by no means adequate tocalI for its introduction, as an article ofmanufacture for the nation..Itis the principIe of industry, and not its modes; t11at the Sipanish, com...munity wants.'Vhena stranger l'eaches Seville, he perceives that he has gotten intoSpain. The ;feal Spanish beau is tÜ' he met with h~re: ma,ro is the nationalphrase for the character.There seems more of the sentiment ofthe dignity of human nature than even of self-complacency in the corn'"position of it.He adds little prop to his national Mel'ino system. Silks,satins, and lace, constitut~ his wardrobe. In a large-bl'immed roundllat, his hair in a redecilla, a searlet coat tbl'own ()ver a wa,istcoat ofsilvertissue, putfed out with ribbons at the .-shoulders, and a basket-h.amlledToledo blacle under his arm, at midnight, llnd at the billiard·table,heappears in his glory; a frivololls one, perhaps, but marked by nationalcharaeteristics. The Spaniards are very fond of~ andgreatadcpts at this

THE G :tRALDA, ETC.game, playing with great strength, so as to drive the opposmg ba}lover the table.On St. l)eter's eve the Giralda was iHuminated ",ith a profusionof lamps, which, dislodging a number of birds from their usual l'oost,.these çontinued during the iHumination soaring or fluttering in doudsabout the light, causing upon the clark atmosphere behind them a mostunusual and pleasing sight to s-pectators below.This Qiraldais thetower of the cathedral, built by the same archi,tect who constructed thegreat mosque ofMoro.cco; both monuments of Arabian science, taste,and style..Thè nuii{,building lS broader, and sorne yards longer, than'Vestnünster'abbey.~rrhe derÏ:vatiûn of this ward Giralda is not agreed, ,

64 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.of the town, from their mode of building, including courts or areas, areseen into; and it is very probable, that sorne such situation or circumstancefurnished the original idea of El Diablo CoJuelo, the prototypeof Le Sage's aeJ.mirable Diable Boiteut'l,', where French manners are engrflftedupon Spanish scencry. The Alkasr, with its saloon" dome, area,cQlonnades, ~nd arabesques, is a most beé,lutiful specimen ofarchitecture.But the subject is too weB known to require description, and the matter,to be described is too mu1tiplied and too minute for any save the micro-,sc,opic pen of the indefatigable Pons. On this subject of architecture onef~mark pccurs, aQd always will in travelling through Spain; namely, thatit iB rather curious that the Goths, who according to our wise heads havegiven the law of architecture throughout Europe, should have left notrace ofit here, wl;Iere they came so early, and were so long established ;but have bequeathed the whole field of architectural science to theArabs. italy, indeed, the northern hive had no occasion to,~xercise itstaste in, for aB was built and overbuilt to the invader's bands; but.thiswas by no means the case in Spain. What were their architects and men,of taste about? The before~mentionedbuilding, the Alkasr, is happilydestined to the use of st\;ldents in statuary and drawing. Theil' youngminds must be imbued for life with the elegant ideas which rulethroughout the scenery around them.the infinite gratification of aIl persons of true taste.It is now under repair, and toA positive vetohas been put upon the architect inserting the absurdities of hisownabortive imagiuation, and calling it Arabesque.To revert once morp to the subject of painting :-The churches andcouvents atIord delight to the lovers of this beautiful art.U nfortunately,tbose works of the admirable lVfurillo in the Franciscan conventhave fallen considerably into decay. In the chapeI of L~ Caridad,too, are four capital pictures of this master. One is tbeAngeI appear-

PÂIN'l'INGS OF THE OL"D MASTERS. 65ing to St. Peter; another, a Queen of Hungary administering to thesick. In one of the churches, on the wall, is a painting of St. Christopher,thirty feet high, and admirable for the accuracy of the proportions.But, in fact, Spain is one vast mine of riches in this art; andartists ought ere this to have bestowed an the time it wou Idhavetaken tomake researches and form catalogues of so much matter ofl'eal value, now in great measure 10st to the world.The snuff manufactory is one of the wonders of Beville.The wholenation uses tbis unnecessary article, fabricated for it de par le roi, andof course heavily taxecl.As aIl is free will, they have consequently norigbtto complain on the latter subject. The French, for their domesticpurposes, be their relish for' it more or less, are obliged to take, fortaxation's sake, each a portion of salt. But fortunately it has not Jetoccurred to Spanish fill~nciers to compel their people in likemannerto take snuff; for which reason, probably, aIl do. The general demand,however, influenced perhaps by the foreign, is not so great as formerly.Still the manufactory sends out annually ta the amount of a millionsterling. 1t is sold at t\\'o duras (hard dollars) a. pound. It may bejudged wlmt an immens.e profit reverts on it to ~he state. The regularstock on handis thirteen millions of pounds.the nation is an estancia (a licensed shop) for retailing it.lnevery town throughoutIt improvesby age, and that of the bestquality iskept in the manufactoryforaboutnine years' in canistersc9ntaining·six pounds each. The l'est lS piled infield near ten feet high,of sa.cks holding a hundedwerghtandupwards.Phy:üognomies aIl around are shuff. To conclude: the building is a vastquadrangle,: cootaining twenty-four cQurts, and has but one 'gate oro~ltlét,wbere thesearch upon exition is as close as in the {1Ïamondminesof Iodia.One bundreô-'and-fifty horses, and one thousarldmen,six hundred of wboni 'maRe segars, are daily employed in iLThe sllutfVOL. II.Je

66 l'RAVELS IN EUROPE.i8 in its natural state nearlyof astraw-oolour. lt i$here in the progres$of manufaoturing tinged with red bote.'l'he Inquisition is here in its glory, if not in it8 horror ; in its glorytby having at its head as grand inquisitor the best of men, the arohbishopof Seville. He has been already mèntioned in regard to a par...tioular ooourrenoe. The details are these. A oolonel of a regiment,a foreigner, high in estimation, had obliged two Or three of his offioersrto an eN.tent whioh they well knew they possessed neither inclinationnor ahility to repay. The effeot of this sentiment on a hUlnan rnindit requires very little experienoe to divine. But here a peouliar felioityof opportunity offers uurler suoh oiroumstanoes: they denounced himto the Inquisition.It i3 probable this soi-disant holyinstitution hasbeen from its earliest days thus an index eitpurgatorius for getting ridof those inoon venienoes of human life cornIllonly oaUcd obligations;and for many an imprudent person the splendid pretext and baselurking motive have been equally ready at hand. The charge he.r~arose from the circumstance ofthe 0010ne1 having put upon the walls ofhis room certain prints (engravings) which had no immediate relation toorthodoxy. "Vhen the. affair reached the ea,rs of the grand inquisitor,he treated it as it deserved to be,-oanoel1ed aU proceedings, and put itto rest for ever.Yet the people who made this attempt appear at thevery moment everywhere in society, and daily look the man in the facewhom they have thus injured! 'fhe circumstanoe, however, affords aspecimen of what points this institution descends to. In fact, its veryessence, its definition, is, to interfere and meddle w4th every thing. ltseffects in astate may be easily judged.U nfortunately persons willchange: such a grand inquisitor may not be always here; but theprinciple is immutable. And this principle i8 unhappily the reverse oflaw~ which asserts, " De minimisnon cur'at. n It isto tbesethe lnqui-

THE INQUISITION, AND ITS ;EF}'ECTS. 67sition hl its very essence descends.Every person who becomes a familial'of the Holy Inquisition feels as if he participated in its powerwhen he affords it the means of action.Delation has greatattractions.for mankind. A familial' is a Hattering situation. To have a man's l'epresentations·even· listened"to gives a momelltary importance, suppo~singalllllalignant incitements out of the question. The mystery andsecrecy which pervade the procedure seem so like wisdom, too,andthe possession of the office being whispered in a man's favour, establishinghim in a certain ton de supé1'iorité in society, altogether supplymatter too gratifying not to he courted.An inquisitorial spirit onceannol.:lllcecl, will evel' find agents ready to volunteer their services.Theinterfertmce hence ,vas ever to the motaland political detriment of thecountry, as the above instance, amongsthundred5, show~. Unquestionablythatfinesse d'esprit 50 obvious'.În theSpaniards,and which wasmaking.sucfi rapid advance to Protestantism in th'e discovery and exposureof Church abuses, would, but for tfiis powerful political engine,have long ago prostrated the ponderousovershadows the 8tate.superstructure which n?wTo have once come under the notice of thistribunal (such was its seat in the public mind), even although dismissed,put a man hors d'odeur de sainteté; or, as we would now express it,ntade fiim unjaskiona.hle ·for life. His relations disavowed, his friendsshyed, ih,is aequaiDtances eut him, and finally he remain(;'}d a markedman. This institution hasnoi\v subsisted for centuries eoough to afforda tolerabiJy ·suflicient periQd..forpolitical experimentoreudurance.Sa:m'ti Pon:ccalteadymentioned (ci..devant Italica) is the property oftheOhucl'eh",vhicbhas here" itisnotieeaple, the a.ppointI)l(;'}nt of the civilmagistrates, andexecutes this PQwer with a judgementwhich it wereInuch to bewlshedmight he seenelsewhere.Thatmagistraey whiehhas no middle class to select frommust he wretched ; and nothing canKg

68 '['RA VELS IN EUROPE.he more so than the specimens of it which come too often here underobf!ervation. Bad as the systetn of France may he, that of this country'is worse. Incleecl, what can be expected when power is put into basehands! A bloated aspect of domineering insult, an everlasting effortto make power felt, combined with the most ridiculous and at the sametime disgusting charlatanery of au.thority, to which Shakespcar's pictureis faint colouring, exhibit themselvesunsought.No me calienta ustedla sangue :-" Do not set my blood in a flame!n mil/ies repetita ineverlastingreiteration, upon every frivolous occasion, to the amount oftwenty times in an hour through the clay! This mode of maldng theimpression of personal and official importance was the curious specimenof country magi~tracy exhibited as extant at the present hour. inSpain; but let it not be inferred, under the nomination of the Chapter,which. appoints at Santi Ponce.The cathedral here (wherein is thegigantic figu;re ofSt. Christopherheretofore mentioned) has been alreadyacentury in building. But this protraction is from a cause v~ry differentFrom that which fuIes in the procedure at Cadiz hefor:e noticed. Thefunds for the structure here arise out of the canonicalrents, these worthychurchmen contenting themselves during the period with a bare subsistencefor their own use.Handsome equipages and well-mounted cavaliers appearhere in thepromenades.Every country has its eliquettes; but no. where havethey ever ruled more seriously than in Spain, down even to the takingof a pinch of snuff, which important· procedure has its indispensablerule.Bere in the promenades, wbat is sometimes taken on One side asa compliment, and sometimes onanother as a liberty,-to stare at alady, is a grossness of behaviour.On the other hand, what wouJd insome places be eonsidered obtrusive, the pullÎl.\g off the hat to· one, isunavoidably llecessary, and is expected,when any earnesttless of look,

SPANISH ETIQUBTTE.-ANDALUSIAN \VOMEN. 69or aug~t beyond a glance, has casually taken place, if the person havenot already been introduced to each other. A close attention to thisprinciple presents itself when three walk together ; in which case vigilantcare is taken that the person to be honoured is placed in the centre;next towhich, in point of dignity, comes the right. 'fhe wall has beenthe cause of: long and sometimes fatal contests. A dispute on this subjectrecently cost the admirai Moreno that life which the red-hot shotof Gibraltar could not reach. 'rhe military, and students at the universities,(those of them at which arms and sciences seem to clash together,)aval1ed themselves by joining issue on this important point.Serious qu'arrels ensued; but as neither party appeared to advancemuch towards its objectbywarfare, an appeal was at length made tothe throne. The auswetwas, thata daim ofsuch importancecoulduot beawarded to eithèr party, where each had such high pretensions:but hismajesty in the interim, and as the tountain of honour, decided,that hereafter its place should be in the middle cff the street.The Andalusian women are considered as the beauties of Spain. Likethe foregoing case"it is hard to decide, where aIl have such strong pretensions.Exceptto such as admire stature, as possessed by the Gracesof the northern latitudes, the description of the Spanish ladies is butarecapitulation of embellishinents. And their tastein dress also, thattaste which induces themtoretain theirnational costume in defiance ofimported frippery, sets their native elegance off to consummateadvantage.Thestature ofthe women i8 short, in ~ore proportion.than is elsewhereobservable ln Europe, to the men. This is stiJl more remarkablein Andâlusia;fto~ntheheight the male.sex there iattain. Forthis reasonthere are in the houses two sets of chairs, one for the women, anotherfor the men, proportionate.Their persons and earriage, dress andair, infinitely more than compensale for the defect, if such it be.It

70 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.may besupposed the cortége system reigns' Imre in aIl its absolùtenessof domination, for power seems its regulating principle.The Spanishlady seems to be strongly imbued with tbedisposition of a Rosalind.The young men of fortune of Seville frequently go to the SierraMorena, to hunt the wild boar and deer.Whatwill hardly be believedby ouro()!1l,S vi'Dans, or what must, ifthe business have Dot been alreadydone, be related to theùtterand everlasting condemnation of Spanisbbon go'Uf, the venison, though by no meansbad, is soM here at Dot morethan haif the priee of butcher's meat.Itinerary to MEIUDA. Merida isa placemuch talked of, yet Uttleknown. Ofcou'rse itiexdted a cùriosity toopowerfuI not to supersede ailarguments in favour of the ordinary andshorter route.Bidding àdieuthen to Seville, and proceeding northwards, thefirs·t ha'lt \Vas made ata ptJsada adjoining achapel, the wnole having the romantic·appearanceofa hermitage. Previously ta departur~, in making agreement forhireofcattle themoney '\Vas required to,be'deposited, and theapprehensionofrohbery assigned as the cause of the precaution ; ail ornimmsêom.meDce'men t to' the journey. The arriero, however, it was agreed Ul'on;a'Ba very fair principle of arrangement,was not to receive it untiI hisl"etum,bringmgwith hitn a note from his employers authorizing him410 do so. The polemical question of,tne Franciscans and DOIIÙnicans,wbieh so long'agitated t:ne Catliolic worln, is not yet put to rest, althoughdecided in Spain; for,a house is always hailed by the caU for the acknowledgementoftheimmaculate conception.of the Virgin herself, inthe following most empha'iicaBy pronounced words, "iJve, )Jaria sanctiflsima... p~ to which the rreply fromwithin is,"!Sui peccadoconceoida".JJProceedipg, the next place we arrived atwlls Xeres, fa·mous forli! Wh~rebyare obtailled no Jess tban twelve hundred and sixtYdays ofilldulgen,ce {rom the painsof purgatory. Thus the account is still kept clown.

XERBS•..,.-SIBRRA MÛRENA. 71Hs wine. The soil of its vicinity is rich and cultivated; the adjacentcountry is thickly studded with villages; the town itself is handsome;and elegant equipages ftitting about in it, indicate that the afRuenceof commerce has here at least supervened the deleterious effects of aninju~ious system of rU,ral product.Quitting Xeres to the north, travellers cross a Moorish bridge witha tower on the centre (a military idea transmitted to our island), and atnight reached a single posada, four leagues from Xeres. The soil hereis deep and moist: a proof of the lat~r exists in the multitude of fire..flies which pervade the air àt evening.A company ofa description ofpersons called Montan~ses occupied the inn. They were going on businessof trade to Seville. They looked of the most respectable class offarmers, grave and decorous in demeanour. From the appearance ofthemselves and the cattle they ro~:le, both seemed to live in plenty.They were weIl mounted; armed with carbines, swords, andpistols:rode with the old Moorish horse appointments; and when on horsebackcovered an by a cloak. 'Vhy is not ail like this ?The country hence toward the Sierra Morena is divided into inclosures;fat'ming establishments and villages, with open woods interspersed,present themselves to the traveller's delighted eye.SIERRA MORENA.-Approaching this tract of mountains here, thecountry gradual1ybecomes rugged, assuming "an oudine very dilferentfrom' that of itseastern extremity..,The Sierra here i8 much more acute,the ridges narrower, the raviI)ès wider,-all those diversities offeature8w,hich make the djfference between schist and granite. Here, too, ismore wat.er,andverylittle wood. H~reabou,t, however, (that is onthe southern skirtsof the Sierra,) the country is still picturesque, beinginterspersed with woods and groves of cork-tree and dwarf oak.Thistract i8, by the information ofour good muleteer, whose openness and

72 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.mildness of disposition appear to harmonize iU with the route headoptsfor a livelihood, "malissimo y picaronissimo;" and the number of crossesereeted by the side of it inscribed, " aqui mataron a,-, aqui murio- ruegen a Dios por el," testifies to the authenticity of the statement!Smuggling is the school of aIl this villany.The Sierra next fises in more acute angles with the horizon, presentiogvery steep inclinations, and constit.uting a tract dîffieult but pervious,as the soil is, at the worst, hard, and the woods open, beneath.The ridges run parallel and longit~dinalto the direction of the Sierra,and abundant streams divide them.sehistose range~;These abrupt outlinesdesignateand the country, in a· military point of view, i8 ill-adaptedfor position or artillery, not parlaking suffieiently of the dcfinitionsof plateau or glacis, so essential in this view to render elevationof material use.If any thing could justify the eommanders in the Succession-war,indeed, it would be the inadequacy of Spain, the moreobviol1s the more her oudines' are consulted, to afford any, truc andsound basis of internaI defence.The Romans had, in their.day, a.ca\iusewaY,betweentheir two important stations gf Seville (Italiea) and l\!Ierida;and here, near Ronquillo, ~)lle of their bridges i8 crossed. Thisroad is now a great resort of muleteers, aH well-armed. Game of variouskinds abounds throughout this district~Descending the northern skirts of; the Sierra,. Santa 0lalla, a smaUtown with a castle on a commanding site, presents itself.Ensuingon the route are Monasterios, Almendralejos, AviUage most beautifullyembosomed in ahnond-trees, as the narneimports, and ,Fuentede Cantos; passing by the town and castle of lVlonte Molina, a]80Los Santos and Zafra.Villa Franea, neJ$;t on the route, i8 situatçdin plantations, woods they might be caIlèd,. of le triste oli'Oi~r ; andthus the route was pursued.until near t() Torre Maxia. (tu.'l'ris 'lI.(u1ima)

ROMAN ANTIQUITIES AT TORRE MAXIA. 73guides, travellers, and beasts of burthen, aH were at once swamped ina quagmire. Th~ north of the Sierra, it has been already observed, isargillaeeous.Also ithas been, stated to be a step in the general elevationof the peninsula, immediately above the sandy level of Andalusia,the vieinity of the levelofwater t6 the surface whereofhas been recentlynoted. But this argiUaceolls level Îs most uncommonly humid, andits tenacity isno less remarkable. In fact, the water has no mode ofeseaping but by rarefaction and evaporation iuto the atmosphere, andthat in such a situation is not thework ofa day.Hence these nuisancesnow in question are formed, and continue through a great part of thesufnmer. They are almost invisible, and hardly avoidable: for, thoughbut a feW' yal'dswide, theyoftenextend a mile in length; and whenonce engaged in them, itis no trifling exertion that will extricate manor .heast. They are doublJ treacherous, asthey shift thej:r situationeveryseason. lt has not indeed, probably, as yet come to proof, whetherthey have any boftom or not. Here at 'Torre M:axia is, as thename imports, a very large tower; of Roman construction, and square.Wedged in a wallat the corner of a street, and plastered in with mud,are noticeable three beautiful statues of white marble.:Many similarvestiges ofalltiquity scattered about, indicate a statio~ once of cons,equeuce.FJ'om themanner they aresecured and neglected, the re":'mainsabove mentj;oned~whic});,acre perfect, may seè better days. Itbeiug the month of July, the harvest is DOW' gotten in: the troddenstraw.r

74 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.their taste in an the variety of idea it possessed, which truTy was novê'f'ygreatstore.Sacred architecture does not seem, however, to have beenthe predominating one. OfaH the powers whieh have ruled this country,the Romans have left the most stable remains. Indeed thèirarchitècture.had a solidity of principle in it, as weIl as oflllatter and workmanship,which almost bade defiance ta time, unaided by manualviolence. Greececolonized the coasts of Spain.Carthageexhausted itspopulation byconscriptions, or other means, for her ,vars. Rome, whichsucceeded,.imported the grandeur and trueprinciples;asî\rabià tHdsubsequehdythe elegancies and high finishing of architecture. Hence the countrycan boast such perfection in allvarietles.It is extraordinary that thistown should have sa little attracted the attention of EngIish travellers,,,,ho, from cJassical education probably, appear most indined ofany taadvert to tbis branch of observation.It is now a considerabletown,but in the time of the Romans must ha.ve been mucnmore so..As forinstance, the circus here could contain, it is said, ail the presentinha'"bitants (the human inhabitants) of Estremadura, wlm are+calcmlated attwo hundred thousand.This is ,one precÏous instance, among many, ofthe effects of the Merino system ; and snchit must appear, when weknow that the tracthere subject to it is an a.rea of two hundred milesby a hundred and sixtY; an area, too, ofexuberant fertility. wm Governmentnever see how much it benoves tbem. tocrush this tendencyto shepherd l'nIe?Every description of Romanarchitectnrepresents itself here forstudy and admiration.That the art ofpdintingglas$!shonld ha.veheenlost i8 n"ot extraordinary, as the demand for it was}Jot ofeveJ'Y day ~tnat of constructing good masonry, it migllthavebeen supposed, onceattained, could never after have gone întoabeyance.but.An admirablespe.cimen of Roman science, in the departrnent ofbridge..btiilding, is

ROMAN ARCHITECTURE. 75noticeable here. lndeed, as the Romans are the first who appear to.have carried the use of cement to its full extent; so also it is nextto demonstration that they were the first who saw to full effect the powerof the keystone. Here are proofs ofit. The keystone obviously is theessential of bridge-building, of which branch the Romans were thetirst Juasters. But the perfectionnf it did not, with them, stop withabutting, trunking, equilibriali~ing, and crowning: they began from thevery foundation, withastability seen nowhere else,' and Merida affordsa specimen of it. 'rhis bridge is eight hundred and fifty yards long, withseventy-rfive arches, according to the accounts most generally received,Ilot including thoseJor the flood-gates so judiciously placed in the mainpiers •• Tt 15. impossible, however, hitherto to get people to agree inregard to the number of tl}ese archef:l,seventy..fiveof which may certainlyhe counted, fivewhereof are modern. Butas the Guadiana, initsBoods, rollsalong the pebbles and rubble of its bed with great force andviolence, a stupendous pavement ofeut stones,each of considerably proportionallength,and ofa breadth ofsome three feet, is placed, the stoneslongitudinally to the current, undel', and in such manner as effectuallyto secure the arches and piers. And sUch is the strength-and, what· ismoreto thepurpose, the precision of the workmanship,-that not oneof them hasstirred to thisday.. To divide, and thereby enfeeble· thetorrenttoo,·acute:o,'angledBernball·kments. facedwith eut. stone counterforteil,andthe 5~Jiantangle'presented so as to meet the impetusoftheeurrent perpe'Jldicularly, proteetthe centre of the bridge, every componentpartwl~efeofthus indicates science and· forecast. Adjoiningnearly tothebridge isseen wIlat i~ very rare,-a correct and perfeetspeei~enof RotnanyDiilitary. architecture, so little adverted tooflB\lt which since (for what doe! war respect?) have served as chambers for blowing up the piefsof these main arches.L 2

76 TRAVELS INnUROPE.by travellers, and about which, indeed, investigation is so unaccountablyindifferent. Yet it may b~ supposed that those who will take an interest inthe history of the siege of Syracuse, will naturally be inquisitive relativeto the system of defence which produced those surprising narratives.And here i5 an actuai specimen in its full perfection before their eyes.TrajanJs Pillar andvarious depictments give the representation ;bllthere is the reality. 'fhe sharp angles and the perfectstate of this ad~mirable masonry render it an abject incongruous with' any ideaofthe picturesque. The seale and rod are the cri'terion to jadge of stichInatter. 'fo our notions of defence, these works are fiimsy and contracted;seeming tathef likemodels of what was to he, than realities.Theshortness of fange of the Roman projectiles oecasioned the placingtheir flanking works best adapted tothe pnrpose, in a squareform, veryclose, so tbat the works consist of short curtains,straight, and aboutforty feet in height, flanked at veryshort~distances, perhaps eighty'feet,by square turrets projecting considerably beyond the curtain. If therange of the pilum from the fiank of each turret 'crossed atthe centreQi the cuttain, the ptlnciple of dêf.encê~as complete, and this wasprobablythe,regulator. ltis~bvi()'us wh'êrethe deficiency of this systemlies.. The fronts of the/towersaretbe· foible. The embrasuresand battlements are upon thesame diminutive scaIe, just adapted tothesize of a single mal11~wh() was to act in itbehind them.The ma';'sonry IS admirable,; thoughcut stone (ailtlar têêhnically), as used her€")never could have the powér ofresistance of rubble';work to battering.rams. But as the Romalls made so much use of calcareous cenlent,whenever it was to be had, itisproba.bl.e that, thematerial for. it isscarce bere. Inside a principal tower·of tbe Roman w'ork, Deal' thebridge, i5 an inscription on mm'bIe; notltom,~, Greek, nor m~d~JnArabie, but it may be of that more ancient character w.llich the Arabs,

" Îfi //////(/(

AMPHITHEATRE.:.-.BA8IN 'FOR A N AUMACHIA. 77as i5 .well known, used, and of which several specimens on their workaelsewhere yet remain. As the principal Roman work, the castle in factnearly impends on the river, the adjoining bank of the latter is facedto the bottOlll perpendicularly with, eut stone counterforted.A Romanamphitheatre, convertible at the pleasure of the sovereigns 0:6 mankindi IltaSIn for a ~aumachia,fi the town is partly'built. This situ tion· was sIl hh r the convenience ofa rapid discharge of the water, as the taste of these lords of the creationcalled for, variety, satiation it never experienced, ,in Hs bloody spec;.tac1es; so that a man might have justly asked here, in the phraseologyof our. poet, "What bloody scene has Roscius DOW te act?JJ Thet 1 with; ima!' mitiery, vivified atoodsoved,talk,recIined at ease at their suppers, on the horrors of the day.for their situations as governors andbave sallied out these paragons, wh'our classicaJ education impresseson us as the models of eve,ry virtué !,How fiteliorators of mankind, mustThe pastimes of Mu,ley,A\>daIlahwereoccasionj th cîvilized Rome were herdaily,recreations., T t it8 own,use: lttis,euriotls,to, t le fo}" admissionand discha:rge of t tioned among tbem , in regardto diffusion and cap~city, precluding the slightest stagnation.'fhe process of filling and, emptying mllst have been nearly ,t~tanta..neous. But the Romans were consu~mate, in civil architecture, and.l'rom. their judgement ip convenience, stability, and science, evidèntlyderiyed experience from a.school very ùifferent, and probably remoteboth in time and place, frolll istress ot:elegarice,....:...Greece. This

78 TRAVELS IN .EUROPE.amphitheatre is oval; and its largest diameter, co ted bypacing,is ninety-three yards or thereabout. The area Ims a erop of garnity.'l'he soil,vanzos in it; a very usual faIl here of the pride of athough eonsiderably raised, leaves still ~l depth of fi fcet or more be-low the surrounding parapet-wall in front of the s s. These latterfise rapidly in a number ofrows, each 0 ieh mustperfeet view. The water whieh filled this great arAlbuera (the reservoir, Arabie), a mile and a halthe amphitheatrseats, wheneeehannels of t en ws. The tillinghave been a very gratifying procedure in sueh a climate andThe triumphal arch here is a180 a curiosityof arehino apparent cement in it. The power of thebeen entire1y trusted to. By process 0abuse, a yieldinghas unfopears sornewhat shaken.ruine The span of this aremust have bcen very eonsiderabraised above it, as is at present theture, tlpleasant-looking '. SS, lik f e ki . Such matter sequire an interest the eyes 0 aveller Pons. At least hedescended to insert this and other quadrangular objects in hiswhere otherwise the picturesque itself has nearly as much chance tofound as antiquarian matter. AIl this seems strange inconsistency in alover of painting. He at least, for on h9r, may defy an the familiar$of the Inquisition. For, notwithsta nunciation of th subjectof antiquity, their industry would be ed to tind one i np..~ubstantiated by the prescription of a cen

~~~"~ ~'- ~~"

MBltl:DA._TftJ&TEMPLE OF MAR8.-01Rcns. 79But to revel'tto ,Merida, the present scene of observation.temple of Mars with a dedicative inscription.Here is a'l'hase who have everseenone will form a correct idea of thi8; and such as have Dot, willfiu~ repr~sentations of them in abundance in Montfaucon and elsesp~cimendoes not posse8s any eleganee, sublimity, or in­,beyou!dwhatisthecolllmôn boast of its brethren. Its merita$theirs,eompaetness~ndsÛbstântiality. The theatre, the semieirleof whieh is still perfeet, i8 noweonverted, by a correspondent segmentd~addition,into an amphitheatre for bull-fights.In the town lS an intel"~~tingcolumn ofRoman altars of the most superlative workmanship,ea.ç~'~~5i5tssepara;~~ patterll,aU of the purest statuary marble: they arepiledr/in the above forlIl,,;tneir. diameters nappily corresponding, toaconsiderable height; and;ôijthe summlt, triumphantly surmounting aHthis idolatrous pageantryp isthe statuei~fasaintmartyrized by bakingin anoven! Probably Sain~'Eulalia,for no one will be hardy enoughto deny that such su.fferings merited promotion to the situation of patronessof the place.CONCORD! AUGUSTI.frhe Cireus (as it isdenominated) i8mB~$'ÔJt4,rtV'tian

80 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.sand Spanish feet hy Jour hundred.thirty feet.Tht: scatsoccupy aThreearches of tlleaquaduct which supplies the '12al:lm'lGlI..llUremaill:;ponderous ashlar work, of solidity of the truebut most ofits materials were taken in modern days to coby which the town is DOW supplied.But the Grand Aqustrongest exemplification extantofthe leŒ~~i~~7Uum,thahsource/(Ç)fin architecture and indeed throughout nature,} is a work truly w('J)!~tof Roman resourees, and it might he sai .•..... cianelegane~, alth(J)the Greeks did'not much ·em.bark inJ~bisQfstructl1re. The RoQBJthe.other band, seem to have chosen their stations remote fro.mfihatarticle of life, water, for the sole motive of~g~;.ving the pm~er t~~~l".badof hringing it aftel' them. 'j'he extent o(;t,~~~~ ~~~~n perfec~, ~r~g;~.evenmiles; and its ruins still in their presentstate,f(J)fj!~hatdistance, ibitone of the most cnrious and interesting si. perspeet~ atcan he imagined: viewing them, we thinl{image of that site of grand ideas, Persec\'ening sun, or hy the delightfulJ110Pnlighean he more striking than thi5 line ofand heautiful are so happily comhined.from the lowest bases, cannat he less than ..... ,.·''"'1-'0·it crosses the little river Albarregas.most surprising of its featmes.architect was a bold man.Hs lightnessYet its de.eayisthe imperfection of an earthly matter,in principle.It consists at its lower levelwould he very curions to he able to as(;ertalllfolding was obtained for such a work,whereon it was put togethcr.It mustfore us the

costly than the masonry itself.THE ARCHES OF THE AQU'ADUCT. 81Certainly the materials are spun outalmost to flimziness, and it is the most perfect specimen in it8 way oftheieœ minimum. Light as the 8ummit arched~work is, the idea excitedbyU i8 astonishment, how such a mass could be 80 sustained in the air;a~d

'rRA VELS IN EUROPE.,ciple is so obvious, and construction sa uniform, that someapalogynecessary for adding ta thenumber.as observed, ,a link ~nBut in this particular instance"the sciénce presents itself in a specimen rare in,itself, and in a situation hitherto, passed over by travellers, not in theirusual \Vay, en COitrant, but by a refinement of negligence more justlyto be defined en t!autant,. ft has been thought necessary bere to, presentit to the reader in those points of view most capabte of 'conveying th@d,ue ideas both general and particular.To the imagination asomewhatderogatory picture may be &upplied bytllat of. the lofty L'fOnt waU, afJ'a un~formleveJ, of a long s-traight street of brick-wOIik, witillarge cloorsand windows, and flot yet roofed in.Bad as this may be, what ideascopperplate supplies are yet more inadequate, for the subject i8 toC}extensive for papel'.Baths in the tOWJ:l, and reservoirs ihtheneighbourhood,(?omplete what the masters of the world thought was requi...sites to endure life in their selected stations in those !countries, the nativesof which they eondescendèd to honour by tbeil~ presence, enlighte!H bytheir example, and .gratify by tileir domination.,He who in travellinghas to struggle and wrangle with contelltiotls vent~ros(innkeep~rs),andcontumacious cflrrieros (muleteeFs), win often,. in spite of himself, find:his pen infected with his own spirit of ünpatience, and be compelled t@write (otherwise than as he posts, here at least) CUf'rente calamo.A penmanor a draughtsman, uuder the eyes of those who frequent Spanisla'f)entas,is eyed, too, with a jealousy little less than what would beconveyed by one of the profession of the blacJ~ art. Solitary effart"and an autumnal sun, too, rather cOlJntervail the enthusiasrn of anti..quarian 10re, and campel the tmveller, every now and then, ta' casta 10nging eye towards his journey's end. A week passed h~re wouldampJy gratify the inquisitive investigator duly pro\rided withthe ~~;a'"phernalia of seience and local matter. Rest and comfor-t bec~in.e

t)ONVÈNT OF ST. JlJAN DE DIOS; ETC. 83~{)bjeçtsofsorne interest to persons exhausted by a long and nearly uninterruptedjourney.Sorne leisure, too, the mind anxiously seeks for,!\vere it only to arrange its mass of new ideas.Lisbon alone presenteditself as the consummation of a11 this; and various and many things ofinterest indetail, of minute investigation, scaling and measuring, ascert.ainmentandcorrection, were p'rocrastinated through necessity at first,and ultimately as reluctantly, and equally unavoidably; abandoned al-, ,together. It became an effort to catch even the general ideas, where.so much unanticipated matter presented itself.ln the progress of life and travelling, good and evil present themselves,both in men and things; and such was the case here at Merida,where.îs the convent of San J nan de Dios, a large building, thoughcontainipg not more thall four monks. It was jnstituted by publiccharity.-·It lS a.mistake to suppose no such thing exists out of England.-'-There are in 'various cou~tries on the continent magnificent establishments,ând vast appropriations of funds: it is, on the contrary, rare tofind a country where the pOOl' are utterly neglected.of tbese good monks is to tend the sick POOl'.The occupationThere are no,," aboutforty such in the hospita1. Soldiers and sailors taken in are paid for by.Government, at~the rate of a pe~ettlZper day. Foreigners are paid forby the consulsoftheir 'respective nations. But aIl in want of aid are..adll1itted. H Ulllan nature and distress are the objects, and further no~uestions are asked. Sorne will say 'fhis is no good policy: perhapsIlOt; but it is goqd Christianity.,If a wounded man present hiInself,;'.he i~, if possible, cured, dismissed, and goes his way without further examination,\vhatever that way may. be.Frayle Pedro de Aransaenz was one or' these good Samaritans, andheiI1g out in the countryuponhis duties, and seeing strangers, he con­_ded that they rnight,wan.t assistance, and consequently made him­!I 2

84 TRAVEnS IN EtJROPE•. self acquainted witl1 thèm. ,Whâtevertnith may'be in the prineiple ofntllla ji'onte fides,it never will be a persuasive one. Had the, converse'of flie Case existed, had there' beendifficulties tosmooth, he carriedbenevolence enoùgh with him to have doncit;" and the sequel provedhôw just}y thé confidence was claimed.-But'IloW for a pictureof a differbntshade'{ 'but equaHy ilecessary for such as ma! go this route.obtaill travelling conve)'tlrlce, and the cattle fol' the purpose, applicitionmust be made, under the regime of this 'country, to the adminislmdorde correos of the place (i'n English thepostmaster), by virtue ofthe tra~;ener's genm'al passport; 'commanding assistance t~ him From aIloffiecrs ~iviI; àndrnilitàry,and'whie,h if iB his business to obtain pre"vioûsly tb sètting out upon his journey.ToThis precaution duly taken~applIcation wasmade here'to the administ'Pador, whoin consequeFlce andcorisideratibn t)f sixtYreals good and Iawful moneyduly paid into his'hand, isstied notice that sueh personsas werewilling to employ th€'ll1­selves and cattle to couvey the traveJ1ers might da. so.. Consequently,certainpersons finding the others had obtained the due privIlege to hecheated,offered themsdve's'to perform the office. The business commencedwith an' agreementstrictly ratified and witnessed for the duesupply of cattle for the journey, under the denomina,tion of bestias conaparejo.The florid imaginations of the travellers had depicted theseterms into the ideas Qf mules, saddles, and bridles. Neither the tech"@nieal definitions of the naturalist, nor the grammatical arrangements oflanguage, entered their minds, which were tao much perhaps engagedwith the favourite object, the end of the journey, to admit ofit; butthinking a full, not to say eXOl:bitant priee, made a hopefulbargain,.they were great)y astonished, on turning out for procedure, to have'presented', fdr theirbestriding at the door, donkeys not of the mostgra~d.6ûsâppearance f eten in'their ownrace,caparisonedwith straw p~

saddles and balters.T'RAVELI,ING, ETC. 85rrhere too late they became aware, that bestiaequally signified a mule or anass;\ thatapartdo .was as much the strawpack-saddle and halter, as the embroidered.housing.the latter, alas! had been already exacted, and paid.But the price ofIt was duly explaiIledn'ow,"felix quem fadunt," rthat if mules \Vere to be understood,the epithet mayores was thei1' c1aim, while sillas and riendas were 1'e..quisite to guard against the consequences of the )ncautious term apartdo.Sterne says (no matter where) that to define, is. to distrust: butbere it is highly advisable, it seems, to do both the one and the other.U nder these circumstances,with law, reason, and their own wordsagainst them, the'travellers were advised to submit and l'est contented :but 1.his last was rtotso easya task.Agreat authority (Ml'. Hobbes)says: "If l'easonis agail1st\a man, he willbe against reaso~;" and ~oit happened in the present cases; as it probablyhas in many to thereader's knowledge.On the contrary, applicationunder the generaIpassport wasattempted in person to the military commandant.Butthis gentleman, though generally tolerably conspicuous in the place"was now, of course by some accident, no where to be seen or .traced..In the worstof situations a fl'iend may yet be found;. and such was fortunatelytllecase here in the person of :Prayle Pedro de Aransaenz.Instigatedby pure benevolence, hedevoted aU his exertions of mind andbody to the servicedfthe strangers; neithe1' official pomposity, threat,.or cajolement, couldhlind him, ,or make him relax; and as difficultiesincreased and rosearound~ hisexertions ros.e withthem..AJmost bymain force .he slJcceeded, at length, in extortihg a l'isit from the seno?commendador, who.condescended to infofm the travellers in person, thattheiI'wishes snould he crownecl ;.bestias mayore.s should be tuunel themto carry them to Lobos,. fOUf' leagues, for six reals each, making thirtysi1i'foolsfor that for which sixty hadbe.en extorted to perform in the case

86 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.of the donkeys. No exertion whatever, still, could obtain the recovcJ'Y,of the sixtY l'cals. Thti senor cavaller'o ,administl'ador, son of a Spanishlmight, and a man who had travelled, seen, and coul.d 'talk of the world,had sneaked out of the way with this paltry sum of pence in his pocket?fully aware, a8 every one in the town knew, ofthe whole transaction,all ofwhich ,vas his own hatèhing from tirst to last. His associates in officialstation were probahly ashamed of, but unahle to .couect him. To!,'raylePedro de Aransaenz, that worthy churchmau, was it entirely. owing thatthe strangers were capablê of extricating themselv.es fI10Ul .an accumu­'1ation of at least very inconvenient consequences; for this Interferenceof gros.sinjustice,backed by authority, was but the signal for a generalattack of wrongand rapacity, the haniers of shame being aH brokendown, which was tohave persecuted their whole route, had they indeedbeen allowed once to enter upon it. Bere it may he observed, that, wofuIto the traveHer, in the making of a bargain upon the road, is it, shouldhe have the imprlldent inadvertence to use the word duro where heshould say peso, It tS aU the diffeJ~encebetween cash and Cllrrency, nevel'forgotten when once chnched. ButF.Pedro's motto in the cause secl)'lCdto be, " Ni! actWll reputari, siquid superesset agendum." To prevent whathe seemedto apprehend with full reason,-·a repetition of suchexactionBat Lobos,-he engaged the a1-riel'o to go on to Badajos for tHe sum ofa hundred reals, and to give assistance at Badajos for the procedure on- .wards to the frontier. He àdverted to every thing; nor was he satisfiedtillhe had engaged guardias de .campo to protect those he Ï1ad oncetakellunder his charge.The first opportunity thaï ever presented itself of any ad Qf ren)iniscenceto thisexcellent man Frayle Pedro de Ar,anseanz, of the couventof San Juan de Dios of 1\1erida was, however,late,-yet ou the p.rinciple.:of better so than never~--e.arm:Jstlyseized 011 .::-the oecupatiollPf :M~rida

MODE OF FARMING, PRODUCE, ETC.1'Oy the British army. But 'inquiry was altogether fruitless: it could onlybe' ascertained tbat, on the invasion by the French, the worthy: fathershad fied, carrying away with them the conventual records; and thus aIlhope of ever heing able to repay such essential obligations was effec..:tually baffied...,-It is sirrc.elearned that they made thei.r cscape to Cadiz.These guardiœs de campo are men armed" mounted, and emploJed towatch the harvest, from the time it is reaped until if is- housed, fromdeprcdation'. A melancholy instance ofretrogradation in theagriculturalsystem. The total destitution of fann-establishment causes this. TheArah process is mOl1e ratiOIul1. Those ,,,,ho ti}] the fields here, live inthe towns~Thefarme:r may well jlldge how business can be conducteclin such a way as. thi:s. 'Fo malœ an end, however, of the suhject of via,.,tIQrial grievance, l~t it be ohserved, that although snch a personage asa. senor administrador is to be encountered a great deal too often, it is byno ':rneans every day that a stranger w.ill meet snch. a character as Frayle:Pedro de Aransaem'J.ltinenl1'y..-LoBos.-TALAvERA.-BADAJos.-On the banks of the6uadiana the meadows are covered with herds of beautiful milk-white~aHle with black muzzles. The face of the countryis fiat" the soil deep.,argiUac'eous; the wa'ter lying still ver'Y neal: the surface...PRODucT.Corn, Olives, Fig:s;-On this route the tra,veller isind~IlJg("dwith leagtiles of two descriptions whereon to exercise his calcuJationsand expectations; Leguas lm'gas, long leagues,. and leguas cor.tas,. shortleagues; the former about double the latter.Proceeding as above,/ Badajos is reached, class-ically Pax Augusta, colloquially Baxos. Newand extensive works are carrying on to proteet Spain from her furmida··ble'neighboùr Portugal, who,. wIlen she meditates mischief in thi. dilecti.onmU!~t, in COl1unon courtesy, make the attack where duly ex....pected~, and consequently where the strongest powers of resistance pre:---

88 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.senfthemselves.War, we aIl. know,resembles chess; and the consum...mate master of the game compels hisantagonist to come forward uponthe point of attack, which he selects for bim.'The works of the uppertown are antique. 'To the north i8 a small modern fort. The bridgehere is of twenty-five arches.The gan'isoll consists of three hattalions,some squadrons of the volunteers of Arragon, (the Arragonese soldierisheld in high estimation,) and a company ofartillery.Sorne very military-Iookingofficers were specified as belonging to the militia. Theofficers of the garrison werecommunicative, expatiating much on theseverity of Portuguese discipline in éomparison with their own, whichthey ascribed entirely to the English.From this it may he concludedthat thei1' own affairs go on very smoothly; and the orderly and temperatehabits of the Spaniards testify as much. But the fJ'{lgiinent dellnfantehere, was al' Allemagne in point of exteriOf at 10ast. 'The prevalentidea concerning tactics among the Spanish officers is, thaL it is a mattervery good for employing people's minds and time during thê leisure dfpeace, but to be put completely on the~shelt whenever real businesswas to be proceeded on. ln plain Englisb, it seems in a ',vorse situ;.ation than even not being understood; and while such ideas prevail,the world must not he surprised, as in the case of Algiers *, at Spanisharmies not mèeting aU the success in their operations that they me1'it.The diversity which appears too in the exte1'ior of regiments indic'âtesa deficiency of system, yet the establishment at large s~unds8ome,~hat'* ln regard to the failurc of the Spani~rds in their attaèk on. Algiers, it may not be imprqper toobserve, that when a general onI)' intends a coup-de-main, he should debark his troops as near aspossible to the object of attack, the success depending greatly on secrecy, expedition, and surprise.But when he proposes to wage war in a country, he shouId land them at a proper distance {rom hisprincipal object of attack, and occupY some position capable of covering his necessary preparationsfor proceeding gradually to the point he has in view. G.eneraI O'ReiIly, by adôpting a dif",ferent ~iue of conduct, failed in his enterprise against that place, and not only Io$t a great part ofhis army, but also his OWIl reputation as an officer.

_.SPANISH MILITARY .FORCE. 89gra.nd: the Spanish military force consisting of, in caV'alry, fourteeIiregiments of horse and eight regiments of dragoons, each regiment offour squadrons, making eighty-eight squadrons for the field, besidesthe troops of guardias de cuerpo, who attend the persons of the royalfamily. There are two troops of cavalry also in Africa, one of whichiscommanded by, as it is composedof, Moors, the captain being namedGall Ben Manzor; if a nom de guerre, a weU-chosen one. The Spanishinfantry consists of forty-six regiments, three of which are Irish, UItonia,Ibernia, and Irlanda, two Catalonian (light), two (garrison) at Ceutaand Oran, and nine Vallons, Italians, and Swiss.Six battalions ofSpanish, six ofVaJlon guards, five battalions of artillery, and forty-six:compaliiesof invalids. Thenow regular force consists of forty-on'ebatta:Iions of militia in Spaih, two in- Majorca, and one hundred-andthirtycompaniesofcityand coastmiHtia..There is a company of cadetsat Sê.govia, and a military academy at Porto Santa Maria, underthe direction of Colonel O'Farre!.This military force is subject to asupreme council of war, besides which is the council of details or economy.And here is the due establishment of inspectors, intendants ofdistricts, and so forth.Still, as an ingenious mechanic invented an enginefor. Shaving and powdering the public at large by one process, themachinery whereof, at its point of execution, terminated in a razor;so,after aH the complication of this piece of military mechanism, thestate effectiveness and appearance of each regiment depend solelyupon thedegree of zealand skill of the officer who commands it forthe time being. The effect is obviolls both to the eye and mind. Onevery bad regulation, however weIl inteuded, subsists in the army ;-thatof giving to eachofficer of an army, concetned in taking a fortress, astep of promotion; a measure which has pnt into the class of fielèl-officerssorne \rery tlnfit for the station. It i8, however, both felt and l'epro-VOL. II.N

at~d,~pd prob~bl'y ~ill~9;t 1~~1;. .~v;~·as. to systew ip generaI, W~~~wO\lld system avait in au army t() wllich the coIowes~re ~ perpetua;tdrain? Thel'egilBent~~ go th;ithel' in turn, q.n~ tbesoldiers bq.X~t~Qptïollofstaying,th~tÎ.s to sax, ofçboosin.g'betweell abundq.nce andiwportallceon the one hand, andp~nuryandneglect on tb.e otherl" Perha.ps the st~\ehashard cards to play. Dates she tru~t\ - . .the colonies"-.witb their OWIlidefence? Can arms again. he put in, lJlen~s lla.nds, and J,IHty theyaft.

evil rooted in the state.POLIITICAL CONNECTIONS IN SPAfJN. 91As to the internal depression of Spain by herforeîgn dynasty, it has been narcotic rather than irritating (this howevercannot beapplied to subalterns) ; neither inj ury nor offence was i~tendedby It, but obviously power and nationality were sacrificed, and are atthis day as much as ever at the foot of France. FuHy subscribing to theunquestionable authority of Ml'. Adam Smith, in regard tothe intimateconnexioilof the politieal in!terests of' Britain and Spain,it must stillbe confessed it will require an exertion ofthought andfirmness of statepolicy hardly to be hoped fpr in human affairs, to countervail the pre.disposition of the 'head of the Spanish state to ,French alliance. Howindeèdisittoheh:6ped the 'f'ationale of politics should prevailabroad.when aH the soUdityof t:bis inimitable author's arguments has had solittle effect at home! It musfDe,Vished Ofnerwi'se

TRAVELS IN EUROPE.And indeed what have family feelings to do in poli tics ? One cannotquit this fine country, this great and dignified nation, whose peopleclass morally so high in the scale of mankind, without lamenting theaccumulation of evils which griod it in the dust. A step-mother connexion.. an alien head, colonial drains, a system founded 00 law. ope..ratiog to the deterioration of itsphysical, as one foulldedon religiO:lldoes to that of its moral ..eftorts, its statistics andau:;onmniqs inregulardeclension, and very well-intentioned effort at amelioration only rev~rt­~ng in disappointment 00 its projcctor!s h€adtQget~fff,itmustb~ repeatcd, constitutc a,picture asmelafiécholy as the statc which itpourtrays is undeserved..l\.f$ tô naval force, the misfortunes of SpainFrom the ear1iest periods of record prove, that he.rexistencea,nd safetydepend on it, or uponstrong naval alliances.Had she possesse;d,tbisnlean ofdefence, her primitive Getulian, population would notllavesll,f..fered Carthaginian despotism ta drain and render her an easy preytqthe Romans, the declension of whose P9werJhre~v berit)tothe Goths and Vandals; feeble invaders,opposed ta thern, nad the heroes .of SagtU1tllple~i&tedin.desc~lldants,it would surely have been easy to have pefended the··Peninsula againstthose invaders, who were themselves too feeble ta offer resistance. effee..tually whenattacked in their turn.by the ~Ioors.Strange fate to0 2thatthe country which possessed internaI riches to excite and pay the cu..pidity of the Carthaginians, whose mountains and rivers teem with thepreeious metaIs, should be thepoorest at home of former days !Butlook to presept times; we see her working hermines abroad* to supplyother natio. at thei1' OWll doors with the circulating medium, withoutwhiéh they cannot trade in the grand mart ofthe worId. Almost naked'*' Si;lÇ millions sterling is the annual consignment to the PeninsuJa.effect if employed in manuallàbour there ? ' .What would ohe of these

MonAl. CHARAC'rERISTICS OF. THE SPANIARD8. 93at home, she clothes half of Europe. 'Vith an immense populationnnder Tule, she is-npon every specific. principle of calculation iLladequateto her own defence; and certainly has been obliged to submitfor centuries to a hostile but defenceless nation, nestling uJi\der her verywmg.Finesse d'esprit, and a powerful seI)s~.. of the dignity ofhuman nature,seem the predominant moral characteristics of the 8paniards. -VVe seeboth break out as weIl in the minutùe of life, as in su bjectS'of the greatestimportance. At the saIlle time it isvery doubtful whether these qua­Ihiesbe in themselves those to be wished for to constitute a nation.'l?hose,vhich.haverisen and thriven the most, have been composed ofcoarser materials. Stoical vil'tuesare not the springs to urge on humanaffairs; and the work of thehatchet cannat be perfl'med with a l'azor.~~;t bath tJlCse qualities above mentioneddi~tingrl.Ïshed,and evidentlyguided those adventurous efforts which crowned her sons with successin the ~ew; "VVorldand elsewhere.Unti! a national government takesplacehere, one really Spanish in sentiment, let it come whence lt may,no e~pectation can he rationally fol'med that Spain will l'esume that"\veight it is so desirable she should possess in the political balance ofEurope. Tn full possession of her resoul'ces, having Navarre, she wouldberself 1?e able to cope with France; and at least as far as thatpointof political consequence, she ought ta have the general wish of thewol'ld on her sicle. Active as French policy is, it could Dot have effectedhalf what it has done he1'e, had it not been for the mismanagementand el'roneous jdeas of others in the conduct of European po­:Jitics.PORTUGAL.-A brook, an houl"!) ride distance from Badajos, forms theboundary between the two nations.Here, at this time, WaS a militarycongress ofSpanish and Portuguese, for the surrender and transmission

94 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.of deserters respectively.The latter troops, by their sabel-tasches andother paraphernalia of the profession, are of the German school.Theassumed contempt of the Bpaniards for the Portuguese, unaccountablyis not retol;ted: unaccountably, forsuch sentiments are usually reciprocal;at least one side has as gond a right to them as the other.Generositymay be carried too far: and it is so in this case, if such bethe cause. Tt is not usuaI for nations to forget their own hauts faits;and in warfare, equally strange to say, the advantage has always beenon the side of Portugal. In faet, it issuffieientt()r't~irnark,shehas beenable, as wc see, to maintain herself. A Spaniard will walk a mile fapointout the way to RIlEl1glishman, '\1hen he recognizes him; when he1vould not condescend an answer to his inquiry, whil~ he thought it camefrorn a Portuguese.Such is borderly philanthropy, neighbottrly love.Extraordinary to say, still, aH this never pï'oduces any effort at retortcourteous orotherwise.ELVAs.-Fort La Lippe. The able generalandiextrâordinary.énali:racier of this narne, Count la' Lippe ,Buckebourg, t'l'~hl'ilp'rl Ii;i:ml81:f'w(l,rfsituation hêre; and he might trlllY,say,"pere..ennius. JJIts use forany other earth!y purposëis not sa easil! tubedefined.'The embrazures are nowhlocked, as the view by glasses ici..forms us; so that here does not appear ta exist at present anya,pprehensionsof Immediate danger. Never was any country s6 duped byits engineers as Portugal. But this definition dnes not apply in thepresent instance.Count la Lippe never said thatapolygon was a palladium.,But people must come in aid ta thernseJves ta he effectuallyduped; and t11is they do. A view along the Hne of the frontier willspeedily justify the judicious observations of Dumourier upon thesub­Jêèt, but tovety littleeffect.Processions and fami]y cOIlllexiôl1s" flîelattêr t ' tao feeble instruments ta bind/,'are more ttusted. to~ thânfdte-

pORTUGAL. 95C:l}.§.t ~ndarraugernent, ~hich, inde~d, i$ aU h~r~~lmtNa,t\lre 'Yt~~\pCPJ7mit,~qf'~lJ.gat has in reality no. froptier. Hs boundari~sçl;c,lnQla,I);lollPttoone.The rivetS whichmarkit$ surface, whereby milita,ry movementsare reguJated,. andmilitaryoutlitles d.esignated, whichigo~ern .andl'llo41P, the feature~ of the COl\ntry, aIl, instead ofpresenting or marking~ *i.. . "bal'riers, are so many çond uctors leading the boIt direct to the healt ofthe state.Nor lla§ the cOllpJry. pqsitions; for that ",hichcan heturned, is nOne. It has stroQg posts: But what call these avail onthe present sca,le gf'\;4i\xfare?Like fortresses, they must follow thef'ilteof the c9un~ry•.. What is. the influence of Elvas beyond the reachofitsgU,s?y .. :I)ge§ia,(9rtifieç),.town possess the quality of the torpedo, tobenumb w1}Mever. cqPles.withi;u its tact? or canenemies he conceived,~o besotted as to prowl abopta couptry in< &earch of walls toknoçk~ll(;}ir he.ads against? Nqtthaiit is heljeby,in'{efreç),;or implied,that the'f.or.t.rt1ISS system is bad: it. is the fortress withoqtsysiemT-'ftanki.ng"works;~pç),. sa1ia,nta:qglesctq ·ç),cfend-wha~ (-a country ?-,'no, but eaèhother !:Tpj~ lS .th~ a,~8Jlrd 'Y'~ste of time and resources that is tobe deprecated~"4,J()r.tres~2;Qi~Q.,chmé!g.J;:\i~ude ascalls for an army to sit clown before it, ..~.q.ç),iQ!:ve§:t.it, completely, will have weight in the reslllt ofa campaign•.t1}e cnemy op. his thoug.hts, too, before he enters into:acall)~'Jé,lign~i~p .)\;arfare'c .tho jjne'!Tt.r~s~ici6S iB aIl. 'rhe barrier. towns,.,. the'Low Cpuptries, .. attord, ane~ample. of thefrootier sy.stell1. But what(;Qu1d EergenrOp-.zoombe by it8elf? Just what']Tort la Lippe ishere•.Fortresses., tOQ,rnustbe g~rrisonedbytroops drawn from the armies,, . ~ twherehy the fateof thecQuotry i8 to he decicled. It,i$ the applicationof system, and not solelyofpositioptçl;th~m,which.makesthemof io-,trinsic value. A fortr~ss which ..çannot he left behind,js ahvays of con~sequence.Eut query, How many Qi these are there in the world"supposing t'he active army calculated uponasufiici~r;tforceto leave,

96 TRAVELS IN EUltOPE.an adequate one to mask the work and garrison?Elvas and its ad..jacent works can hold a considerable garrison; and were a considerableforce stationed to the west to support it, they would seriously retardan inv~sion.Almeida, too, is described as one of the honours ofthe engineering science; and, to judge by its position in the map, withstiJl more reason.RouTE."",-Portugal to the tra,rellercertainly, and to the sojournerprobably, is, comparatively with Spain in general, a terrestrial paradise.The nights are no less delightful here: indeed. travelling inis repayment in itse]f. The brightness of thenow-full moon, the clearnessandcalmness of·the air, the white quintas (country-hauses), thewaving cypresses, the tinkling rills by each habitation,-all assill1ilate,aU harrnonize to the lover of Natnre, whether denuded or embellished.Such at least is what mast strikes by night.In the day-timQ thegrandest forest scellery, the devious tracts under open groves of oak,with the heights around, aIl turreted, present prospects more sublime,and more extensive. The devious ways, neverthelessihOWC\'icrpi:c.tqresque,have theÏr inconvenience tao; for a personis liahle to lose hisway among t'hem: and such turned out to he the case in the presentinstance; accompanied, unfortunately, with the loss ofguides, baggage,and canteens. The consequence was, that the world was a11 beforethe travellers, where to choose; and the whole 11igbt also for them toramble in: and the most was made of the circumstance in its way. Theoccasional cries of berds and shepherds tantalized, but avaiJed nothing.It was impossible to get them to· hear; but, .had this eVel) been succeededin, it would have been an equal difficulty to get them to understand.As to the salubrity of c1imate, however, the Dight produceda cODvincing proof of the confidence to be placed in it. Some\\'ibatshone out brilli(l~tJywhite under themoonbeams in the ce~tr~ of a fal-••

ROUTE TOWARD'SiLISBON.-StTRPA€E OF èOUNTRY. 9710w,field, j'emote from anyhouse.Curiositymore thati hope attracted:inv"estigation; and this produced a result, perhaps thelast, that couldbave been ex1pected-a clergyman, with only his blackcoq{ure onhishead, enjoying a sound sleep, tllost comfortably tucked up in ,whitehedding, and, a lafresca, upon the surface of the new-ploughed earth.No second person was athand, and fortunately he spoke Castilian. Tothis lucky circumstance, and tothedirections hemost ,courteouslycommunicated, the Hnival ,of the wanderers took place b'y dàwn ofday at Bordas, an ancient town out of the route, surrounded by gloomywaJlswith round towers célstellated.Here was found a good inn, andprompt accommodation, presepting a picture very enlivening indeedw'hen compared to the long..to.,be...remembered woes ofCastile.ESTItEMOS, a town on a: hilLwitha fine castle, was necessarily visitedinorder to recover the l'est of theparty~ AnB,OYOLOS" in the delightfulhracing air of the mountains, where roomy houses furnished with the oldhomelycomfort of large chimneys, weU filled with blazing logs, excitedthewish that thejourney were here to bave an end. Bence we proceededon,the route for Lisbon tol\IonteMoro, a good town, Ventas Novas,whereis a royal palace constrllcted on the model of a cotton-mamJfactory,and Aldia ,Galleja on the Tagus, opposite to Lisbon.On approacllingthe coast,>the surfa·ceof the country fiattens, andapproaches water..level. Siliceoussand ~ is substituted for argil, and;(1 Ecce ilerum se. The disease (as Falstaff says of the consumption of the pur~e) is incurable.1~he basemE'nt levels of the globe (its ~urface), those aflflur d'eau, are arenose. Such is the casehere; SUc1l is the case in Andalusia: and the flying m~mntaills of Mogodor, and Dunes of Flander~all testify to this effect.. 1\s to causes and deductionR~th'ey must probably be left for tho~e haleyondays when mankind will become'disposed ta thoughf and rellection; but it is impossible to avoidnoticing this combination in Nature of symmetry with iufinite diversity; that unknown but universallyfdt charm, the que piace.But in regard to t11e country we havç quitted, or more part,icularly that part of the Pellinsularaled by the house of Bourbon, its'geological features posses!! an i11terest Wllich must ever rise inVOL. II. 0

the .'. c10thing of the soilvaiPies· wïth its substance, the resinoRs wee&hiking the ptace of the oak. Indeed, sostrong is the exhalation of tunpentinethrough thesewoods, undertbe power of the sun, as to/becomèoppressive to the breast. This traetbearsevidenHyaJluvial Inarks.Llsno;N•.,-On a re\'iew of the foregoirig route, the f:ollowingquer:ymust strike the mind:-,Why should Portugal be so much more im,..proved in the comfi::,rts of life, as she unquestionably ls, than her immédiateneighboUl'? How eau that neighbour, so close, be ignorant orinditferent to these comforts and improvements,wbieh she must Ol~may see every day in the year? T",ascertâin the cause of this etfect,or rather say the cause of tbis defect, requires a deeper view into theinternaI 'l'egime ofthe country we are now in, than can be attained byposting from frontier to frontier ~ and unfortunately re:Becti:ou and corn!'"municatiofl donot appear to be much of the tonde la vO'lme soci~tihere at Lisbon. But the superiority here spoken.of is not remoteorlanciful. Throughout Portugal, at the hOUT of mid-day,a:nexcellentdish, the caldo,-meat, vegetabfes,and rice stewed· t0:gether,"";"""'make'sits appearance. Varions products.of the~oi:l, not to b.,had ..f·brmoneyin Spain, are in p:Foftlsion nere. rrbeir haiHls curedê in, the mountainsare excellent; and the whole menage has sufliciencyof comfortand·neatness. AH, too, is adapted to the climate. Fo.r one of the circumstancesthat must 6TSt strike the eye of the stranger, cost'ume, the lilte'preference cannot be asserted. The dress of botli sexes here is strangelyproportion \Vith investigation and reflection. V\Jnere are such contrasts of tabular and oblique strata?:",here such mighty, such regular gradations from summit to sea~level? Let the Pening{IÎa he vie~din trns direction, and what a powerful interest it then possesses!. To what extensive speculationsdo the calcareous masses, fragments, and strata,. lead the mind!. lt would be by, no means dÙficultto connect a rational theory of waters with that of mountains, and tbis count,! woulcl afrord theehlciclation. Man has mucb bUlliness tet on bis, hAnds near home.

THE ',E.A.ltTHQt1 AmE AT LISBON•1#ftbec()ming~: and this?thètawdryfiRery enhancesagainto disadvantage.V'ety assential moral distinctions must subsist between these two na,..tions.Lisbonpl'esents'some interestingmatter ofobservation and inquiry, as'wellinits b()somas. iis neig:hbourhood. Everyone must have'heard of,a,l}d perhaps somewh~\treiecteci'upon,f:i:tsHarthquake; but every oneml\Y not have. been àpor-téeto lu\v;e itdesc~ibed:by an actual sufferer;capable·of a full ,aecoun:t ~f the mostdreadful mOIllent that evel' oc...curred sinee the Deluge.''rhis tremendouseffort of Nature must eveF10 the end of time possess an interest with tllose who visit the spotwhereoll it wasinflictetl.,first inquity.Itnatu,rally presents itself as an object of theMf. De Vismeli$ migh,t he taken ia modern days for aspe...'cimen of what w.e read of rryre, inhar royal marchants.His revenues,the'importanceof hisspecuJations, the scope ·of intellect required to,conduct, thenumber of agents toexecute, aItogetheran establishmentonJy to be exceeded by royalty.constitutedHis mind wastenlightened proportionately; and if. may be judged what must be the.~nKiety to gather, From the detailsof such a person, the faets and im...pressions of that dreadful event, of which he waskuaWB to have beeaa,:witnt)ss.The cil1'cumstances, it maybe,presumed,would remain tole.;rablystrongly implanted inhis mind for the rest,of life.His honse,&F'ratherhis, who:Je esta:blishment,~fo .. he had tw:ohouses,one intownand'one in the country,~was.open,to aU strangers. Aoeesstohimwas frceashis hospitality was diffug.ive.The account this gentlem(lngave of the event was as follows :.......It'\vas a ,bealltiflll morning,pe,rfectly calm; suspiciously so, it would béthought, didthoughtanticipatesud:t events.'f'heshoek was instan.taneous. He was thrown prostratc. U tterdarkneS's and profound si...le11ce ensued, and reigncd fo:1' fuH tive miulltcS.02During this :timene

100 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.remained in perfect possession ofhis recollections, but funy impre~etfthat it \Vas the day of the last judgement; of course anxions]y bent inmind on what was to follow. What a state of the human thoughts.~ Atthe end of the above period there ensued a universal SCFeam of ..tJ1seric01ldia!for every human heing capable 'of reflection was impressedwith a similar idea.After a lapse of some time the darkness becamevisible. Then groans and wailings wereloud and incessant. At length,"ivors the dreadful scene in which they nad bo:rne a: part. l ...amel1l:tableto say", murder and robbery were the first effects of rnanki·nd's l'eco..very'from fear.Ta those who viewed it from ft distance, a vast andthe thick cloud of dust dispersed, and presente€l to the eyes of the sur­instantaneous cloud of dust usuFped the place. ,vhere they had t't.. momenthefore seen the city: but these per,sons were mostly thrown offtheir féet by the violence of the shock. This shock was flot und.ulatorYJDut horizontal. The sea, at a corresponding period, rose severa} fee1 .at Gibraltar.Various antecedent occurrences, which might have stoOtllin the place of warnings, were recollected when the catastr:ophe hadhappenecl. The kinghad a Neapo}itan musician; l1is majesty onceasked him howhe liked, Lisbon? to wbich the musicitlD replied:,as in(lutY bound, "Very weU/' but added, It was mnch mor,e sua)ect taearthquakes tbau Naples. It may he judged he shared the f~lte thatkas ever attended prophetsc ("'\tVoe to thee, thou: proud city J?'),derision..He and bis remark eq:ually: excited ridicule; the poorman's b,ains, forsooth,were so addled with the shocks of Naples, that, like the efi'ects'ofthe motion of a ship for sorne tirlle aiter quitting it, ~hey foHowed himwherever he went.J3ut the fact was,. he who. was babi1uated to thesematters o~servedthemselves.~y:mptoms which were unnoticeable tothe nati,vesBe aU as it may: to judge by their mode of buildingtheyca-tainly here never expect to expérience the viscÏtatiou of aUQtner~

'igE CORRIDcA. 101ShouJdsucbaneventtake place, it will come witb a four-fold vengeanceolltheir heads. There 8eems a 8trange want of thought throughoutthe present procedure.One of the exhibitions of the presentday here, bef()re the court ofl)ortugal, was whatis termed a corr;'ida. This is chtn"alel'csquc, and aresidue of l\~oorjsh gallantry. Such as have read that which is handedclown to us of the refined chivalry of Grenada, will be struck with theresemblance. It was performed in,aquadrangular area of the size ofa moderate riding-house. A band of military music played duringthe exhibition. It was executed by sixteen horsemen belonging tothe royal establishment, mounted on 80 many of his majesty's finesthor8es. The dresses and caparisonsof eight of these were of blue-and...gold, and those of the othereightofsearlet-and-silver, and tbey, worelarge plumes, of white feathers in their hats. AIl. this was very band...some. Rach cavalier wore a sword, and'carried in his handa pliantlance fourteen feet in length, with a. round top ofsilver, hungiwith bells,as was his caparison aH round the edges. They entered the area by ,fours, then doubled up to eight, next formed a rank entil'c, moved aIl atfull speed,and, shaking the lances over thei1' heads up close to the lineof the box ofi the royal f

lO~TRAVELS, liN EUROPE.Ï:$portant contestwas, w·hich SllOli11d,strike the lance outof thehal1d.ofthe other by a jerkof his own.. ,Anotherskirmish was thenperformedwith little taI'gets and balls of clay, with w:hich theypreviously played,gaHoped incirc1e, as the childre;mdo incEngland with cups and baUs.They.thendrew swords and skirmished with them, performing a complicationof evolutions in dIe sarne style, but too intricateto describeorcven ascertain hy the eye; but an performed with admirable precisionand rapidity. Bavingdone ;whichthey withdrew,aHsave two cavaliers;who remained t06ght a buU: 'l'het;eis an uncongeniality ().f idea betwee,llthe chevalel'esl.l;(w

i€:onrluceslo theimiprovement ofthatriohlieanimal, 0' the managementof,thtrhbrse.· A sad Jal1ingoffappeared in the subsequent show, thoughroyal sport. The days of heroism arepast here: these ceased withthe fate of the marquis..of Marialva*. In Spain the professional mà·lador, itis true, occasionall,Y kills a bull, as he declares, in honour ofacertain ladyof dignit,Y. Buta purse ofgold tossed!int the area is theeKtent of his ambition, save andexcept the exhibition of his pers6nand skill. But the Portuguese matador formed a wretched contrast tuthedeliberate firmness of the gentlemen of this description at Madrit:iudecd the exhibition hel'e isalmost too degrading to relate. But a pic.tU,l'eShOllld bt} viewed in its just. light. The truth is,r tlle bull had oneeye PlIt old:, and on itne fighting siose. AH t.his 18 \Vell ,urdilg1,d. Butlit Wl10 was.kiUed ilran.encounter with one. of these undiscrimi1latillg animals, in the royal presence.The successor to his. title and filftlllle, being preseut, wasinvited also tQ risque meeting hisrate; an honoù!' which he, with dtle layait)', lJegged leave ta decline.t 1'wenty-fou.r wretched animaIs were thus tortured.

"104 'fRAVELS IN EUROPE.nothing can he more completely inverted here. Indeed the·cnrtainmay be preferably drawn overthis wretched exhibition; and ta con'­cIude npon a subject, whereon very oppûsing sentiments pervade, a detailhaving sornewhat of originality and drawn from Spain shaH besubstituted.-During the last year, a tO'l'ero of l\1adrit (bull.fighter) Ülventeda curious device to interest the spectators. Opposite the gatewhence the bull sallies into the amphitheatre, he dug a hole. In thishe placed himself squatting, and holding a very strong lance, or ratlIerbeam, pointed with iron in the direction to meet th.e charge ofthe. bull.This animal was very .fierce bynature.,and moreover .by being kept ina qark place, as 15 the practice, untillet lo{)se; and he irnmediately onseeing.flew at the man, who most dexterouslyguided his point, 50 tbatit ran, by the violence with which the bull carne on, through the ani..mal's jaw, through bis body, and came out hetween his hiud legs, sothat he was fairJy spitted, and rnight have heen immediately put teroast. As may be 8upposed, thi8 man's life depended on his dexterity,and a very deliberate act of .t'ortitude it certainly. was. Alth(;)ugh heca11lC ofr with flyingcolours, he did not altogetherso in a ,,,hole skia.according to the construction of the phrase; for thequadruped reachedhim with !lis horns, catching him with one of them uuder the arm,which it dislocated.'l'he Jnquisition docs 110t s]eep in Portugal. At times a soldierisseiz('(L and in such case intimation is given to his commanding officer,that he is to make..no J'urther inquiry concerning hint.' lt is !laid theinstruction to thiseffect appears on the face of the orderlybook. ltmay he judged w·hat must he a military state subject to such inspectorsas thest.'. Of all persons in the nation, were it not fHf the insupel'ableJ()Vt~of meddling,_ the soldiery, it might besu,pposecl, ,yo~tld ..bemost completely exempt from suçh a visitation. It m.:aybe judge.d how

!l'X8B STATUES AT BELEJ\f,l05disg,llIstiȤ, thismlllstQc to the foreign officers here, who ar~ in pn:esenttinlesthesollll ofthe service.Whether this

106 TRA VELE: IN EUROPE.a nation would not bestow time, labour, and expense, on what did' Itlotyield a return. Neither was it an object with them to g~rri8on or holE!a country as a province.Q"Uick retùrns were their obJect; and if theycolonized, it was for the purposes of trade. IfCarthage garrisoned here,it was to repay with interest by conscriptive draughts for tlteirarnüeselsewhere. Much African blood must however now circulate in thePeninsula, and languagehere will be found in SOUle degree affectedfrom the same source. But African idiomwiJ1 have much less pervadedthe recesses of the country, that situation where.philologicalreseal'cllestlsually best l'epay, thanher open an€! trod€!en parts wbere succeedingiD'Vasions again bave intervene€! to obliterate Ît. As many Scythianterms remai,n in thedialects of the Peninsula, so the local aames rootedin the Punie indicate the powerful tenure this na~ion once ~ossessetl11e1'e. 4 Langllage IS more durable than the works of men'g; hands, althoughtheexamples are not 80 perviQus or obvious to human faculties.Spain had acquired arts from her African inmates. TbeancientSpaniards had gained stepa in the progress oflife farbeYQnd the Gau.ls$'.'lihose arts they possessed too, proved the source whence they deriv,edthem. They. wore garl1lents of white Iinen fringEild with purpIe, aU thel7esult of the progress of Afric;an arts. Very little however, it is to helamented, has descended to us of the ancient in!uibitants of the Pepinsala,except their desperate bravcry in defence of their country.unfortunate one; for no where does a nation pI:esent a. more mixedan..cestry,. and aH in theÏl' turu bearing rule. But on the other hand, d~eAn* During the second Punie war, when Hannibal cr:o~ed the Alps to iuvade Ital)!, he placed insorne of his engagements the Spaniards and Gauls in the centre of his army in alternate. cohorts,with his heary-armed Africans on their right an.dleft in tlle flanks. The Spaniardswere clothed inpurple robes, whereas the Gauls were naked'. See Polybius. This i8 !lufficiently ~dautti()tityfol'cOl\l:luding, that the (orm er were then much nwre advauced in the."arts of life than.the latter.

THE DUTfES OF A DIPLOMATIST.natives ofthe preselltday may boast that they are descended of thosewho have signalized themselves in the records of history, who have influencedand decided the affairs of the world.If the provincial concussions,so pregnant with illconsequences too often in the affairs ofnations" be owingtothis cause,-and such it may be notwithstandingthe remoteness betweeniit andtlfe effect,-it affords matter to belamented;fclr a deep-seated evil cannot be cured by ordinalY means..'fhe diplomatic characterinifluences that of the nation, which it represents,among Joreigners.Accol'dingly, as the people of a nation aretl'eated by its. representative, thosearonnd judge of men and things.'.fhey conc]Qde, dmtnonation,vill be so înfatuated as toretain andpaya man in: sacha situation, who perseveres in a sys'tematie courseof wrông; consequentlytlîey>mustsuppose hiril, in whate,'er he does,'l'ight. Séc9ndly, it is to this quarter that the subject is to recur forprotection, and a system ofrepulsedeprives every man, not totally di...vestedof feeling, from a recurrence to such a quarter, be his difficultieswhat they may. Again, it bars communications, sorne of which at leastmay he of importance, aIl of which ought to be listened t~,of which are usuallyworthy of adverten.ce.and mostBut the diplomatist, whoturns his'back on his fellow-subjects, tLirns it aiso on the most importantinterests of his country.This isilot the manner in whichtheFrench proceed. Every communication made is, wbether attendedtoornot, invariablyacknowledged. 'J'hese observations occurin consequenceofa striking instanpe of national manners, of urbanity, and thefacility of intercourse in two distillguished persons of that nation nowhere: Count Cooway returning from his command atthe Cape ofGoodHope, and Connt O'])unn the :French ambassador here at Lisbon.lmmediatclyonthe former arriving, and duly armouncing himself, he waspZ

T R'.A ViE nB 1NEt.T R (l) P7E.in"wmwaitèdonb~the'latter, witb:~'A"eito.tsinfamy. ··It iss,til1' mote melanehùly;thht fulseUô'()djand:r!î}~dignitysho\11(}c

,POMBALS lNFAMO:{J;S CONl>UCT.lOg'It imaYilIYe said the 'sit1l.bjectis @bsolete. Harw cau that el'lerhe?,1\tt!llttâer wiill 'cry fraUl the gra\leW'i::th most'l11iracnlollSQxgans.'Obsoletleit'carnnot be; ,for thesu'bject:hasbeem revliv:etlFn the.pres~JIlitcdayin .aUi ts miscol'lceptioDs.'Il1l3, i tenI'ightened EngIishmen shouldactiHi"Oalidatea 'sentetlce't}f;ift1àrmynpoft .ct/lm irml"OCeDit,.the good, amdthegl'eat, DanottlY'3'cquireaddition8!I,cause. ofiFegret, when iweiknowwho ,tbatEn.lfsnman îs--thatMr. Soutrbey;sihonldha'velent :his lsuipportto wrong." Who'will not g1!iave, jf,Addison wereihe ?",Unfortunately" wei herebavean iustanceof what iperseverance ia1m:iquity may 1}ffect. Who \ViiIlnotlament, that afteraIlthesufferingsor'thatgma.t, that viij~uous:,thatunoffendingfamily, their memories(even un:f(1)rtUl;l;atè ;

110 TRAVEL8 IN EUROPE.suggestion asa cat laps milk:" thishe weIl knew, and conse

,(;A'RV.A..LHO S WICKEDNESS.l1JHe b€iid"allelse in :his~hands: but aU else was nought without this. It JRJay;bejudged how the blood of the ancieht nobility of Portugal wouldcUI'die at theprôlJosition of an alliance with an upstart.From themoment th;s family dared to thwart him, he vowed theil' destruction.With l'égard ta the Jesults, hisviews were only political; here his impt~lsewaspersonah Butexisting circumstances.concurred to facilitatethe involvingboth in a conunon crush, and he was not a man to ~overlookthe glorious opportunity.Nowto proceed with the catalogue ofvictirns. Théystand as follows : date,. Lisbon~ Dec. 30th, 1749; andLondon, Gazette, Wednesday.Jan. 17.1750~Duque .Daveiro .and his.· son,~€lande· DattfÎngonia,.Marquis Dallorna,Don Manuel de Souza arrested; ,Marquis of Gouvicia,Marquis of Tayora, father,Joseph Maria hisbrother, a dignifiedecclesiastië,Marquis.of Tavora, son, Don Emanuel,Joseph Maria, son,Manuel de Tavor~,l bish~ps of Oporto and TM··Nuno de Tavora, f vora,.John de 1'avora...,Count Obidas,Count Ribeiro, .Pi!1arando, &c.,'f'arenda,Tbeinfântsons of the Counts Dattongoniaand'. D'Alorna, with rnany others, ,whose fates werenever ascerta:ined.LAmES.The Marchioness of Tavora,Countess Attongonia,then with child,Marchioness D'Alorna and her two daughters,Duchess Daveiro, sister of the Marchioness ofTavora,.(Note,The intima~yof these two families is addûcedbyCarvalhoas a proof of communityof guilt; and this is not one of his \Vorst.}The daughter of the Duchess D'Aveiro,The young Marchioness of Tavora, who hadv~rylenient treatment during !1er imprisonment forsorne reast>n;,Tl~roughout~ save in the case oftne yüung l\1:arcHioness .ofTavora, istube llotecis the peeu]iar~naljgnitywhich is bOl'ne against the femaleRart ofthe families" which,could not have been the. incitement of anyprinciple ofjustice however little understooii:.Next as to thecharacters of; these victims.The MarchionessoCrayora, notwithstandingher heroical'cond uct onthe s.caffold, was, in.private life,mildnessitself; a most amiable private~

11~ TItAV.BI...SIN BUROPE.êhat:aotel i , and bigh iu' the estimation of;the·. royal family, whichproba...bly rnateriaHy conduced ta her ruine Various good reasons are assÎgn...able for it; but one imay suffice.Itserfedto provehow little royalfavour couldavaiI ~~ainst the sovereign, will oftheminister.TheDuqued'Aveiro's private oh8oraoter wasmostrespectable. HeWàs better hnownthan lflost, from hisslituatioll ofgenerai Oif horse,which aIso rendèred his enmity,were ibst:lrmised, formidable toa.iusurp,..lfig rninister. Like nineteen twentieths ofth.e nobility, he was disgustedwith a court, \vhereCarvalbo carried aH''\ftthahighhand; and,itbe lat..ter knew that he was vulneMîble on the point ofexhaustion of lIhietreasury,which reforOJsand cpnfisc~tions came very à propos to &UppJ.y.eÔITuptiofi oràvarice was n0t ptedominant in Carvalho's,mind; fOF,likeRobespieFre in later days, his passion for blood rendered these butfeeble gratificati'ons.Next; as to the factSêharged, and in regard to the unities ofthe tragedy,time, place,andaction.---The thirdJi)f September wasthenigh,t,the vicinity ofthe church ofl\fem?ria the place;-and mark howweUthishamgstoge,ther: when Carva,lho is dust, and his pillaI' of infamydilapidated,the ancientname oftllechurch will be eonverted byfutuFegenerationsto a commemoration oftlierecent action, and adduced aS.a proofofthe point of facto rrheact was, the discharging a fire-aFm loadedwithilugs into the carriage in whichhis majesty was, andwoundinghim.Here it is to be fi'tst observed, that the qneen of Spain, t(heking}ssister, died on the 28th of August. OntheSOth, in'conseq'uence afthismelanêhûly èvent,hisITlàjesty declal'èS hisdeterminationto sedludehimself from an business, cerètnony, company, andeven 'sight.!Ft isweB known what affliction 'the king of Spahlwas oppresSffd 'withon the sâfile'eVent.FIere 'thenate iille two monaréhs'of,tllcPenitisulaouthêirbedsof \vôe, anâ 'thewôrId. thus :}eft'f'QriCœrv'a:lbo 'to'bustle·

MOR'R WICKEDNESS. 113in.l'b(è!i~'1100n of Spafu's death appeal's to have been the signal forat~tion.On the 4th of September a l'umour l'an that the king was ill; and thiswas succeeded hy one of an attempt having been made upon his life,thoughlVcitb total variâtionln the specification of circumstances.On the 12th of December ensuing, threemonths and nine- days after,the parties crimirrated wèrearrested:" Here is the indictment of the good Lord Hastinge,Whieh in a set h.and fairly is engti:>ssed~That it may he read o'er this dayin Paul's.And mark how weIl the sequel hangs together :Eleven houis 1 took to write it o'er~The precedent was full as long a doing,And yet within these live. hoursliastihgs livedUntainted, unexamined, free~ ..at liberty!Here's a good world the while !-Who is 50 grossThat cannot see this palpable device ?Yet who 50 bold but says he sees it not?"Perhaps the faculties of the natives were too callous for any of themto see the device, however palpable; but this was by no means the casewith others, who had opportunity ofobserving: for the Portuguese ambassadorin London took serious alàrm at the representations whichfound' thèir way inta the Englisbpapers. IfPombal tbought of obtainiogby bis intrigues aco!umrifor His story, and the Gazette would stiflethevoice oftruth in an èhlightened nation, where J~stice is worshippecl{orher own sake, he wretchedly deceived himself.During these three months the Aveiros and Tavoras presented themselvesat court, andhad intercourse with the worthy minister. The lattertook the earliest opportl1nity to seize, under the name of a regency, thewhole extent of that pow~r of which he had already secured the sub-VOL. II.Q

114 TRAV.ELS IN EUROPE.stance.The queen's narne was put at the head ofthis governmeo;t, a»clpopular measures were adopteddurin'g it; as ifa horrid conspiracy beingdetected, and mm'der and treason brought toconviction, required palliatives.The arrests had been preceded, on the 9th of December, by the king'sedict declaring the attempts at assassination, for the first time; thus stillIeaving the guilty three clear daysto escape:. Jet not one ofthe l11Jrnberavailed himself of it.In regard to the arrests, the diversities ofstatement are so cO.nsiderablethat it is impossible to reconcile them. That the weight ofcriminationwas directed against the Marquis and 'Marchioness of Tavora, but withpeculiar venom against the latter, is ob,vious; and when rumour sent itto them, that they were the people marked, they presented themselves atthe palace for the purpose of arrestation. The Duque d''Aveiro was ~t his

INF.AMOUS DECEPTION. 115on theÎ'l'depa'rtare, the Duke d'Aveiro attheir head, they were arrested.Beit which way it may, thus much isproved, nameJy, that they didnotact like persons under the consciousness of guilt.The arrests toôkplace on the 12th: on the 13th appeared the criminalprocèedings" and the sentence, so long, so laboul'8d, so artfu1, so sophistical.This sentence,pronounc,ed after long and due investigationto be sure, when the livet; of so many were concerned, was promulgatedon the 13th, though the criminaIs were taken into custodyonly twelve hours before it was pu blished in print, in a country wherethe press is torpid, where but one was employed, and where the cornpositors,with,the!r scanty types, proceed à pas crane.Next come theparticulars, as they were laid before what it is customary to caU thepublic, from Carvalho's pen andthose of hiscompilers~" His majesty,sustained most grievous wounds'>'-" rrwo balls took effecti.f!-'~One(of thes~) grazed the outer part of theshoulder; the otberwent between the arm and right side of the body."-" They were slugsheavylead."-" The carriage was shot into behind."-" Six shots penetratedthe king's breast."-" Incisions were made to extract the shot."~-" Much blood was 108t."-" Tbe wounds were considerable anddeallY· d' 1 . 1"1"It ls to be bserve

116 TRA;VELS IN EUROPE.killed, and postillionwounded.'~Thistook place at eleven o~Cloek.atnight, anhaur when an the .world is stirring in that country and season,.near the royal palace, and neaf Carvalho's house; an admirable placefor the Tavoras to localize theiratrocious arrangements, a horse ambuscade.Ho,v did his majesty aet on heing thusattaeked? sustainingthese deadly wounds?-As one would upon an every-dayoceurrenee, .just in faet in the manner as if it had heen the loss of a shoe to one of hig,llOrses.He lowers the front glass, and bids(the killed),eoachman driv~him to his surgeon~sat La Jonquiera." The baIl strucli. Talgol's brass habergeon,Who straigllt.A surgeon! (cried) A surgeon! ,rAnd it is now to he observed, that, to the 13th of Decemher; no- cinesaw his majesty hut this one surgeon, no addhional advice' ora:ssistanc~heing caUed in to extraet eight slugs from his deadly wounds. Dacs:,not the whole of this stand self-condemned ?The authoritative statement plaearded in the detmllCtation ofthe âtfàir"offering reward for diseovery, says, it wasthe work ofthree conspirators,and three bluuderbusses, onewhereof missed fire, and two made tW()Jlarge holes in the baek of the king's carriage, and wounded the kingh1:1tne arm, of which his majesty is now perfeetly reeovered, without the:least hu'rt remaining.Next eusues the indictment, eharging, that the Duqued:Av~irdfdrivento desperation by being depriyed of eourtfavour, (although stiIla generalof cavalry,) had treasonably used the fol:lowing words, viz.. "It lS'as bad to me as to have my legs eut off to go to c()urt.'~Moreoverhe'"is charged \vith dissatisfactiou onaccount oia disappointrnent relative'to a marriage in bis family.This causes birh fuost treasonably toilJéreeoneiled to his sister-in-Iaw the Marehiouess of~avoxtâ}withw:h()mhehad fonnetly hada difference.(See Se/nteriee~)

PLOTS CONTINUED. 111J3t\t, tbstfengthen tbis point, it seems necessary to state, that theywêrea11 the bilterest enemÎes; and this is the very tilne taken by theDuque d'Aveiro to c.ommnnicate to her his treasonable design. (Sentence.)As a further charge against the Duque d'Aveiro to that wherein heis;âècused ofhaving forgiven hi8 enemies, the notable speculation whichstimulated him was, that he intended, after he had assassinated theking,to have married his son to the Princess of Brazil, and assumed thethrone of Portugal to himself.The Marchioness of Tavora i8 accused of haughtiness of conduct; incorroboration of which charge it is proved against her, that she disturbedthe 1l1inister (pOOl' man 1) at his hours of business with applications topromote ber family. (Sentet'tce.) ' ;And both, taken together, constitute high treason..rphe sentence then concJudes with a winding-upl'worthyof itself:-:­":But if fill proofs had been wanting, presumptions oflaw (on the sideof gui1t) arc sufficient for capital condemnation, unless controverted bypositive pronjs, 0] innocence."This contains a sentimentof despair.(Sentence verbatim.)At any rate, after it there is, itmust be admitted, no kintl of occasion to inquire what the evidencemayhave been.Still it must be looked into.A prediction of the king's death had been inserted in the Almanac'''­Atwhose instigation?The plot was discovcred by the brotber of thewife of the Duque'sbravo {kind assass'in), a glover-his· name is not specified-who visitedher; and when the Duque and bis bravo came to the house of the latter,(bis usuâl resort,) to consult, the wi(e thrust her brother into a c1oset,not ta beseen, but ,,,!tere he4could hear correctly â11 t:bat passed; whichhe did; and then learning the story of the king's assassination, he putboth nicelytogether,and gave the information.As to the arrangements of this precious plot, as communicated to the

118 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.public, tbey were the following.The fundswere contributed bysubscriptionin the following proportions and amount,namely, The MarchionessofTavora, sixteen moidores ; the Marquis, twelve ; Conde DalOllgônia,eight:-the total,thirty-six. To make the sum required, (forty,)theremaining balance, four moidores, was to be paid by the Duqued'Aveiro; wherewith two assassins at twenty moidores each were to hehired, for the job of murdering their king.These twoconvenient personageswere byname, Anthonio Alvarez Ferreiro and Joseph Poly..carpe Azevedos; and betweeD. these, adcording to someceûmp1iltationsthe public was favoured w.ith, this SUlll to be divided, afthough this isnot left perfectl.Y clear, as, for aught we see to the contrary, the who1enumbel' of assassins, which varies as convenience may suit, were en. 'titled to snack.Be this howevel' as it may, the two abov'e-recited sufferedfor their crime"peing burnt; the former (I;'erreiro) alive and inpropria persona, the latter in the only form wherein hé was ever extantupon earth,a pasteboard effigy.1'he round num ber of conspiratorswas ten, if there is not somewhat of a solecislll in computing the beforernentionedFerreiro in the number of conspirat01~s,as he WaS not madeacquainted with it until aftel' it had taken place.13ut for the businessto be completed twelve persons were requisite, besides the pasteboardconspiratOI'.Nothing but the wickedness cOllld exceed the folIy with whichthesepeople are charged in the official account.Borses were introdllcedinto the conspiracy, and various people employed to purchasedisgtiisesfor the conspirators,jor secrecy's sake.The conspiratorsthus prepared,moun.ted, disguised, and uninterrupted by'any oue, (for though a placeof cornmon resort, not a single eye-witness' viewed the transaction orheard the report,)unopposed by any one, these twelveas$

CONDEMN,ATION. 119f.nhis tissue of horrid accusations sustained by ridiculous drcu'lllstancescontains other jncongmities. Thepathetic apostrophe o~ iJn~of the noblemen to his blunderbuss on its supposed failurehas nore.,r'lative phraseology in the Portuguese language. The tenu evangelic mi...nistçr isutterly unknown to the professors of the Romish religion~ Itis German; and hotb these must have stolea inadvertent1y into thestate-paper so laboriously compiled.and whatdefence?However, they had a defence;They had in the tirst place an advocate, an amicuscu'ria:, nominated for them by the prosecution.Secondly, they were al­10wed twenty",four hours to prepare this defence, without however beingpernlitt~dtocOlumunicatewiththeir counse!.Thirdly, by sorneaccident even these .defences, such as theywere, never were laid beforethe public. Now COlnes the tragedy. Condemnation:-The Marclüonessof Tavora to be conveyed, haltered, to the scaffQld, there beheaded, tobe

l~O'l'RAVELS IN EUROPE.The execution took place at Belem opposite to the Duque d'Av~i!l!o'sresidence, that the cup of death might he embittered by the recol1ectionofscenes of past happiness, and at the same time he à par'Me to the inspectionof the king and Garvalho; thé latter of whom, certainly weIlposted, insatiate rioted in the rich repast. But it is said, and to b~ he...lieved fully, that the king passed aIl the day in dreadful affliction; andat length possessed fi1'mness enough to say that llO more blood shouldbe spiIt; forhis tiger minister was not yet satisfied ;a hundred-and.fifty pers(ms beinginvolved in the accusations, andthem(Jesuits) were executed privately thesame night.This took place on thelSthofJanua1'Y 1759; for, if the proceedingswere hurried, ample delaytook place, forsome unknowncause,intheexecution.The scaffold waserected to anàstonishing height by an Italian a1'chi..tect brought over expressly for the purpose, and who was never·aftel·heard of.It was the original intention that the ~.'farchioness of Tavora shouldhave beenexecuted the last; but it i8 SUiPIl)(Jsed>that the strong 801icitationsofthe royal family for her life somewhat urged on the moment.'Vhen she was led out, haltel'ed, allowed to see neither husband norconfessor, her 80ns' corpses lay before her; and she had' to step overthem as she advanccd on the 8caffold. They were two uITcommonlyfine young men. in point of appearance. She kissed cach uponthebreast; but when the executioner offereû her his assistance, digriityresumed its situation. "Handsoff!" sâid she, " know who l am/'Then, deliberate1y taking a ring off her finger, she gave it him; adding,"Now do your duty." 'fhe victima were careful1yall hrought to publicvie\,\r in the same dishabille of a Jnonth's imprisorHnent; arld as eachear..rived' on the platfonp, the 'Corpscs of the predecessors werecarefulJy

poÎlltedout' tonotÎcè.CLOSE. OF THE IIÛRRID SCBNE. 1~1œhis may be caUed doing the honours of thescatfold.The Marquis 'was of taU stature, and about fifty years of age.his arriving on thé scatfold, the bodies ofthèMarchioness, his two sons,and the rest were uncoveredby his desire.' . He kissed his 'second son'sqreast with great emotion; theri dèliberatelyhandledthe crow; and,}lt1signinghimself to its operation, 'bore'his dreadful sutferings with thegreatest firmness.The Duque d'Aveiro was feeble on ascending thescaffold, havingalready undergone the nickeigltt times. On his appearance, the wholeca\;alry assemhledforthe spectacle ,vent about, by order, in sign ofcontempt. His sufterings weremostdreadful.As each of these great people, appeared, or reçeived tlle blow of thebar, the atrocious populace uttered a lond slIout oftrinBlph. PombalweIl knew what kind of stuffmanlünd .was made of. Although thegreat submitted with a resignation which showed they knew what theywere to expect, it was otherwise with the inferiors.OnThey stared likemen amazed, "as if awoke out of a slumber, and doubtful if theyhad a part to perform upon the'scene, struggling hard with the exeeu:'tioners."Such were the catastrophes which awaited those who bad nothing torely on, to defend themselve& against'villany, save their innocence. Yetthe man, who did aIl this, died quietJy in his bed! ! !The execution, as above mentioned, took place on the 13th of January;on the 19th the king re-appeared in public.Aveii'o, the ducal property, is now a delicate c.omplimt'nt to royalty,Braganza Nova; and a pilJar stands on what was once the site of theDuque d'Aveiro's house-:....to" lenda lie theconfiden'ée of truth:'VOL. II.R

TRAVELS IN BUBOPE-..Sorne accounts stated that the coaehman, on theshots beingired,turned the horses suddenly round, and went to Belem without anyex..ertion of the king. But a variety ofaccounts circulated,before it was,or could be ascertained, which would go down the best. They wereaH swallowed. Carvalho wished, it is said,with strongfoundatiou, tohave involved the Infant Don Pedro in the plot.One tbing worthyofrernark is the8icrimonyof style which pervades not onl,the sentence,but the whole proccùure..!Compunction is the feehlenessof guilt,notthereturn,ofvirtue.Thatthe delicate treatment whieh the young Marehioness of 'Favora expe...rieneed,whilst her;}1Ushand was, lying on the scaffold, ,vas owing tosorne eornpunctions existing in themindofPombal, there is no doubt.Thus our great poetrepresents Lady Macbeth: "Had he not resembledmy father as he slept-.J)Thedebility of humannature pervades itsvery guilt, and there was unquestiouably a motive in his breastwhichpleaded in this Iadis favour.Jt isto be lamented that the London Oa·zette no less than twiee lentits a.id to circulate thesemonstrousstatemett:ts throughoût Europe. Thei:ngenuity of Pombal in implicating d~e transaction with the downfall oftheJesuits,-then a popular rneasure,-contributed to pervert the publicjudgement on Üle whole transaction; which, truly,passed over for thetime without the execrations i1 deserved.But let it not thence bedeemed to fol1ow, in the present day,that the vOlee of truth was totallystifled. On the contrary, it appealed to Heaven,.-rather Iate it is true,­on the abomination, both in English and in French, in the former partieuIarly,with a most c'reditable degree ofeaol and sound investigation.Carvalho, how'ever, wasa man to have manyadvocates orretainers. Hecourted foreigners, to maintain that popularitythroughoutthe worldatlarge, which he knew hehad no chance of enjoying at home.Edu..

,POMBkLS A:QDRESS AND PûLITICS.catedaCatho1ic~anddestituteof any religion, he acquired 'with othersects the character of an enlightened man. He patronize'd foreigners,especially from the countries which are not Catholic; and aH those ofthis description who established themselves he1'e en1'olled on his side.He had boldcommercial views, and the mercantile people Jooked upto him,-altogether constituting a powerful supporting corps. Hisvigorous mind and energetic expression. carried weightwith those towhom he talked, and brought them on his side; at leastwhilst he wasminister.Europe Wàs but la secondary object in his mind: ne wasalways looking across the Atlantic for the foundation of an empiresucb as hemight deign to rule·. This he dec1ared in latter life. Itproves a vast boldne.ss·of conception, when wa consider how little mattertlJ,.e state he was brought up in supplied, in the way of foundation f0ttbe speculations of politics. :But are falsehoodaRd atrocity to prevail atlast against truth and innocence? Are the former tobe eterna], aRdthe latter obsolete?for mankind.If such can be the case, it i8 a melaricholy prospectTheu magna est veritas et prevalebit is no longer tenable.A few. observations summarily present themselves.Sorne will say,"Vas there not an attempt at an assassination? lt is replied, rrberemay or there may not: for such was the state of assoupissement prevalentabout the th1'one,-suc11 the ascendancyCarvalho had acquired,. thathe could make those, whom it was his object to deceive, believe everytbing or ~ny thing: and they only heard what he chose they should.But shots were fired--Perhaps they were; and no doubt ample andsufficient measures were taken to terrif] the royal fami1y, and impresson the royalmind the idea of an intended assassination. The state ofthe country admitted things t.o suèceed as they were planned. The likebas happened in aIl countries.How did Richard Plantagenet succeedin a similar attempt in the open day, and in the heart of the city oflt 2

124 TRAVELS IN EUROPE.London? 'Vho can say that any one of the royal family ever sa.,,, thêdocument wherewith Carvalho favoured the public? It was perfecdyensy for him to keep it from them.side, and see which preponderate.Take the probabilities on eachAt any rate, itis impossible that itcould have happened as he states it; and this falsehood once admittedcontaminates the whole.l\Ialignity will avoid much of the censure it deserves, when not cou"nected with avarice; and Pombal's was not.13ut that aU is on record could not belf>elieved:Takebis documentsagainst his pillar,-and assureclly that is no more than what justice caBsfOf,-he is hirhself the recorder of his atrocity.l\Ien should considerthe use to .be made both of secrecy and precipitation; the one to con..ceal the bJow, the other to prevent ifs being redressed. U ntH the dê.:.cl~rationissued, no one could say. what was,intended. Carvalho d,ùringthe procedure, it may be wen inferred, suffered no more truth to enterwithin the walls of the palace than he did to pervade the ears of thepublic, and he was fully master of theavennes to both.A. degree of reserve and constraint Was always observable upon foreignershere, when these accusations were introduced as a suqject ofconversation. lt was evidently one they wished to get l'id of, evenafter the clay of the minister had ceased *. Perhaps sorne may îhinkthat no motive sufficiently po~verful for an these labours existed. Andwhat powerful motive instigated Cardinal Ricblieu to form his corn ...-1< He was soon taught that friends adhere to fortunes, and not to men. In his hour of triumphand insolence, when he had erected bis master's statoue in the great square, he placed his own bustin relief on the pedestal, implying that he was the pillar and shield of the throne. The comparisonof a lamb-worrying cur, sneaking home after a night of blood, and scowling from between bis master'slegs, would have been more analogous. But, he this as it may, on his disgrace the bIist wasremoved from the pedestal, and offended the public eye np long.

LOW STATE OF MOBa\:L Il\{PROVEMENT' IN PORTUGAL. 125plicatedand deep-Iaid plot for the destructiou ofthe priest Grandier?­A rivaIry in early days.One consideration will strike obviously. Virtues, so far from prot~ctingtheirpossessors, precipitated their fall. And why ? Because therewas,nQ free press to laythe case duly before the public. Portugalwa,snot at tbat dayâs far advanced in moral progress as England was at thedeath of Edward IV.; and we see the etfectsofit.Carvalho was aman with abilities calculated to raise him iu;anycountry. Had circumstances perrnitted, he would haveperhaps acteda:part equal for brilliallcy to any we read of, but for his atrocity: asit is, hestandsdistinguished alone fOf tbe latter. Ifhis career be ohsoIete,now in the history oi Portugal, it ought never to be so in tha:tof mankind. In sOme cQuntries sucha.gross injustice would have beeu,iu course of time, by an amende honorable, and reversaI of sentence, fedressed,so far as depellds on humanpower and piety. Bnt such doesDot seem likely to take place here; aproof of the vanity, and wQrsethan vanity, of aIl sublunary objects.The ministry of Pombal is of as much importance in the present dayas the colonization ,of {Jly,sses, Gf which, noh\:ithstanding, we eve,!now and thenhear something", But to descend one step-from the daysof the poets to those of historians, little more veridical than tileirpre-, decessOl:s, though without thehrilliancy; it is impossible tocastaneye over th.e surface or map of this peninsula, without adverting ta thesteps, fortunes" andfat:es of the great powers which once struggledfor, and indeetl in the main possessed between them, neady what wasknown of the world. How:long did the Meditcrl'ancan continue thegrand theatre of h\.lman action L Military science, which has decidcdand will decide a1J, strLJck its germ' in Greece,a country otherwise morerèmarkable for refinement than knowledge, and indebtcd for whatit

1~6 TRAVELS IN ln1RO?E.possessed to tlle churlish meditations of Egypt. Romepossessed greaterpowers of action, and used them accordingly.rrhus her armies bave1eft in thesecountries t,he most powerful traces of occupation and conquest.But the sea-coasts bear equal witness to the extent of commercialenterpr,ise. The language of the merchants ofPalestine remains,to bear testimony to that existence of which their rivaIs wouId Faindeprive their memory. Maritime"local names, like aquatic plants,heara doser generic resemblànce over the world than thoseof any other description.Indeed, events and their obviousprogress point ouOt thewaters as the first object to tempt mankind to the experiment ofenterprise,"going in vessels of bulrushes upon the waters." Rence Wennd throughout Europe the objects most catching to the eye of the na...vigator, with names rooted among the very corner-stones and foondationsof language. Such is the case on the coast here. But the Phœnicians,it i5 proved by the same authority (language), established themselves,and ruled long, inland. How comes it that no more traces remainof them?Beeause they were not a people elegant like the Greeks,monumentarylike the Romans.Ascalon is eut off."But" haldness is come upon Gaza,­And with the subversion of the parent state thetraces of exterior domination are nearly obliterated; a circumstance to·he regretted, situated so near the sources of primitive manners, of originalmatter, moral and politieal, as that state was.But. to revert to modern days. A territory unpeopled, a frontier indefensible,and no particular moral resourccs, present a picture conclusiveat first view.Still, however, as there are few cases in this world whichmay not be worse, what \Vould be the situation of the Peninsula, did}'rance, as in former time, hold Navarre, the very k:~y to it? rfhe separationof this Peninsula into two independent (not to say hostile) kingdoms,bas probably been on the whole injurious to the great EuropeaJl

POLICY OP FRANCE AS TO SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. 1~7republic ; for, had Spain possessed and felt the real extent ofher powers,she would hardly have continued a mere instrument in the hands ofFrance, with whom her debility was always an object wished for"*.In the behaviour to British subjects here, the court showed howmuch it valued the national connexion.Though habits afforded veryfew oportunities ofevincing this, still such as did present themselveswere made the utmost of.Politicsconstitute a very strange system:such at Jeast will be the opinion of those who regulate their ideas uponthe dicta of Adam Smith. In his opinion, this connexion is of very Httleworth to our country in proportion to the trouble bestowed on it.words are," The burthen of supporting a very weak ally, so unprovidedofdefence (he seems here totally forgetful of Fort La Lippe and Almeida,)that the whole power of England could scarcely protect. herfor anotber campaign."HisBut jf the Methuen treaty were injurious toEngland,it was destructive toPortugal. What ..can that be but destructive,whlch substitutes the v.ineyard for the plough, which dFives a coùn..try to be dependent on her colonies for her daily bread during four-fifthsof the year, and which forces manufactures on thern to the destructionof aIl efforts of their own?If this be not destructive, aH political speculationis at an end." .1Uilat'is, mijili," is the thought that must everrecul' when the subject is politics. Such has ever been at least themachinery used, when a country \Vas deliberately intended ta be groundinto dust.Don Sebastian~s fanatical and unfortunate (as it deserved to be) expe..dition first \veakened Portugal, and its efiècts would have ever continued,had her enemies been able to take advantage of thern.Coloniescontributedto preventher rallying..But \vhat her people .bave perforrned• lt isobvious how much Bonaparte felt it to he for the. interest of France, that ~pain and Portugalshould not be united.

TRAVELS IN EUROPE.aproad, sufficiently shows what they would have been capable ofat hoIlle ,upder a wise 1'egime.\tVhen we reduce the vast apparent mass of business, of forms, .oftnodes,of moral evil diffused ovcr the world, to their simple principlés,these lie in a nut-shell.Inadequacy of system depres'ses France:' ac-'cumulation ofabuses, Spain: fanaticism, Morocco; while Portugal seemsto inherit in heir loom, imbecility, and uncongenial exterior relations.l\fendicancy is prevalent bere, and indeed practised without any senseof shame. 'Vhere distress has not.poor-laws'Îllstituted, judiciously,torecul" to, emigration, that enfeebler of a nation, must take place, andnlendicity become a fashion at home, the hopelessness reigning thereinhaving stocked the western ,world with inhabitants from this peninsula.England is guarded against the drain of emigration*by her wise institutions;a wisdom the less noticeable,as its operation is complete. ThepOOl" are enabled to struggle, to hope, andfinally to re-establish them.selves in pursuits of industry.The conventual establishment in .thecoulltries of the Romish religion does nutch, bu~ itcannot preV'ent th~tobliteration of shame, that humiliation ofhuman nature which must'prevail when man condescends to beg.'l'he prolongation ofexistence'is a right in man as inherent to daim of his brethren, as his obligationto labour is due to society.The north wind prevails clown the coast of Portugal during summer.Investigation ever confirms one great trutll, that Natl1re is as uniformin her principles as she is inexhaustible in her modes. llarefaction and·condensation are the two balancing principles which sway our elasticclement destinc,J never to beat l'est. One of the packets on this station,• Parlldoxical as it May seem, it is demonstrable that indolence is a nurse, ofemigration.

RETURN TO ENGLAND. 1~9DbW about tosail for England, had, on her former voyage thitherfromthis port, been twenty-one days at sea,. finding herself on the fourteenthot- this reckoning still to the southward of the Hock of Lisbon, as themariners tenu tbe place. Records ofthe process of nature al. differentstations lead to the asc~rtainrnent of her prjnciples, and are of use;knowledge being rare]y indeed inapplicable to sorne good pm'pose.Dead caIrns prevailed for five weeks! previous to Admirai Byng's encounterwith the 1;'rench neet in the Mediterranean..The consequencewas, that the sea sent out a putrid effiuvium poisonous to the atmosphere.Thus it is that,let any part of the harrnony of Nature he de..ranged, aU would faU to piece&, but that she possesses the principle of:trectification in herselt;.fi!

SECOND rOURNEY THROUGH' FRANCE,IN 1814•.POIIMING A SUPPLEMENT TD THAT OF 1184..•Routefrom Calais ta the Rhone~ -Descent of tliât River ta Pont St~.Esprit.-Journey coaslways thence by the Mediterranean ta the Pyreneu.-Pass of Belgarde.,TH 1 R T Y years of time, tihe most prod'uctive of events die most iin.­portant in theirconsequencès and the most permanent in their effeetsef any the world ever saw, haive now passed away between the first eUf-­sory view of thisgreatceuntry, and that wherein it has been thewriter'~.destiny to view it under the results of a- series of glories, of sufferings, .and of convulsions.It may well be jùdged; what an, interest the human rniml must take'ln sneh a, view of the moral world; hoW'. solicitous, it must be to·,pbserve the effeets of these great causes.It will not be disappointed.rl?he former ar.e fully equal to the latter :,-,these have passed away; buttheir results remain, and wilL do in spite of aIl the efforts of man to theend of time; 01', to speak more properly" to that of our puny race andithe earth which it inherits~ .l1rfais tami pour ça•.S Z.

'13~ SECOND JOVRNEYTHROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.The present work swells to a voluminousness that ail the pains takenfor suppression of non-pertine~tmatter cannat campress ta the wish ofits author ; and he will avoid preface, as he woitld digre.'Ssioll.'l'herefore, to proceed to business.form now adopted.The narrator has preferredBut previolJsly one ward as ta thecondensing what he had ta say uponFrance in generaJ, into the shape of notes upon his preceding routt:, safar as the matter was of a nature that admitted of it; w!Jatcv('r wasnot, he has omitted.But he cannot justify hitnself in so ooing, \Vithoutwarning the reader how inco_npetent he (or any mail) is to t()fIU anopinion 'of France by travelling inereJ'y through it; and more partlcularJyalso, how very inadéquate the ordinary routes which hlil to the lotof the traveJ)er are, to supply even a comparative scale of what thisgreat country is. Even the present route under investigation-altllOughit traverses France in its nearJy utmost diagonal rheasure,-is unequalto furnish a basis for judgement upon a matter of such vast extent andinclusion: ,and this is clearJy demonstrated to any one, who, like theauthol', has had it tohis lot to make the circuit (an inadequate one yet)of so vast astate.Ta judge of France, it is necessary to take the whole course of theGaronne, and the intermediate countryfrom that river to the Loire. Still,even when this is done, how much remains yet unseen!Between thesetwo riverslies fi. well wooded country teeming with fertility,. Here,perhaps, purchases rnightbemade to aclvantage; for we are~oldtracts between Orleansagd Limoges rnight becoloni~ed!thatIf such hethe case, it i'S vcry different indeed from the rest·of France. Sorneheath i8 seen in these tracts, but in vetylirnit'ed ~xtent.The springand summer on the Loire are delightful; it is indeed th,ere oplJT~p.pre-,sent days tbat the gioventu dei anno of the poet is in aDY degree realized,

L-EG,ITIMATEl\IÛTIVESOF A,TRAVELLER., " lQ~toi..,-it maintains aU he can 'sayon the subject.the l'eader at the end of the volume.An Itinerary i8,offered toTo travel without collectingideas and information is waste of life;to collecf these without assortment isnearly waste oftime, and trouble:and: the moral sense tells'a man he should not have moved and thoughtthroughlife to no purpose. When profit in publishing is put quite out ofquestion, it becomes a man's dutYto himself to let itbe felt, thattheremay he one motive in the hllman mind to bringhim before the scopeof the public eye, more tban-vanit.y.'1'he'3uthor takessuch handles as his former text presents, to engraftth6reon his newer matt,er;,quoting therein, for the purpose of precision,the original. In addition, too, to this new matter, resulting from moreassiduous investigation, or, what is muchmore freqaent, the entire ne",face of things, he avails himself of the opportunity to correct himself onany point wherein he ll1ay have been in error; and to elucidate what hisinexperience in active literature caused him to leave in a state of moreobviousdeficiency.The lot of his life absolutely precludes bim frombestowing that personal attention on his composition which so large amass rcquires; and it often happens that the legibility of a man's handwritingdoesnothold par withthe quantity of it. These circumstances,he ,uluch fears, will ,compel him to thr,?w himself upon the mercy ofhis readers for a most voluminous list of errata, in exten\lation of whichhe can only plead that l~ejs not a fire.side traveller. He might addmoœon this point; but thereaderwill unquestionably concurwith him,that this is sufficient to decla.re, or be infoftlledof, 'to\lching personalmatter. ,Bis objectin thissubsequerrt compilation has been, for obvious.reasons, Francé; cbutany,matter whichhas since fallen in his way, in

134 SECOND JOVltNEY THllOUGH FRI~NCE IN r~n·f.:r~gal'dtG the otbel' parts of his route, and which he can draw iuto light,from the chaos of his note-books, he will insert in the proper place.Page 6. CAL.A,IS~-This place and 1\-1. Dessains' important departl1lentof it remain much as they were.The principal differences which strikethe stranger's eye, of to-day, and thirty: years past, are, the destitutiollof â'JlUmerons garrison dothed in white, and the plenty of the (moreespecially green} markets. Twenty-five butchers' stalrs, and at least asm~ny permanent ShOp8 for the tI~ade, amui! the testil:TIony Dt: Hogartà'~Gates of Calais.. .Page ,7. l\{iENAG.B.RIEs.,--...The authol'. pleads in exteullation for the'freoo.om Dt: this epithet, that be was young when he applied it. But.,m0'reover, tbis whole establishment is most considerahl;r improved' Ù:.Ltihe present day; andis satisfactorily spoken. of by those who availth.emselves of it.'VATER-ÙARR.IAGE.-This most i:mportant branch ofstatist~c·sitWill:Dè endeavoured to take iuto due consideration hereafter., l~age 8. MILITARY HABIT,.-By an extraordinar:y. a:ccidsnt,afra.gl1le~t,or rather the principal part, or a jouFnalof a ,French militarydfiicer, wl'itten in the field, feU in,to the author's hands. ln the discourrsp1téiiminai7'e he lays it clown as a principle, that a man's business.on enteringintoany country new to him, i5, to lookall'arollnd :. '" commesi ~l.alloitentrerdans le combat."llouTE-Page 12. POSTILLION TRIBE.-Materiall'y altered, indeed~,if} ,the present day, but uotajot the less true in the former one. Imtestigatiollhow or why this is, will·hacrdly be expected here.The pos:tillionsof the present day are in their conduct a very respectable se'tofmen. Theil' situation, one as weIl of protitas permanence, must make:thetn.w.. By the wise regulations of a .government, to which:illcthisin..

135-stancecertainly the meritof improvement is due, at eaeh post-housean;album, or as frree t.ranslation might caU it,a black book, is kept, for thepurpose of the traveller"sreeorcling any instance of misdemeanour. Hewill rarely bave occasion to recur to it; but it iscertain that his 80 doiogis ·sufficient to bring the proudest stomach in the fraternity down.Pageil:4. L-r:oNs.-Temperature. December damp and chilly, snellaS the date indicates; but notwithstanding the honse-telllperature is '-lPat 62, whereas in London itÎs not higher than 55.The Imperialeye was Dot blind to the local advantages of this place.But thenrst circumstance which str~kes that of the stranger after aniQ:tf;Jrvalof tair;ty 1e.ar8, tg the destitution of greasy monks in dingyblack or whited.-brownrugs, louaging along its $treets, and of the i~..eessant tinkling of bells frommassiveconvents, of which indeed thisplenteous spot in the lap of nature was ap aggregation. Theinmatesare g

36 SECOND JOURNEY THRoVGH FRANCE IN ,1814.principle: but botb are weH; it is cakulatio~ tEal'justifies thèséèl'?,,­stinctions, and the distinctions prove that this true principle is in usage.Their taste here, in this respect, is greatly improved'in 'latter yearsJ,and this derives aid from the excellence of the'materials they possess:l\t'.It is neither Egyptian nol' Greek, and yet is very handsome; in theirarches nearly as fiat as their imposts, lightpilasters, and very ohtuseangledpediments. No where does moretru'e architectural' faste pre::'sent itself.-The quays now extend northwards for a mile and a haItbeyond the ancient town barrier, and on the ,vest har1:k ôf flie ri~er.'l'hese are aUfaced ,vith hammeredstone,~'n an indined wall oftwent}feet àeight, with landing-stairs and mooring-rings; making in aIl neaflyseven thousand feet of walled tluay-workbeyond the town.rfhis new W01'k. is planted with rows of tl~e platanus, about fhe~ root'3of which trees they are at ihis season judiciously r'emoving tlle earth.By the luxuriance of its shoots the tree is conipletely at home inthis cliinate. L'âUéedes peuplie1's composes part af this J

THE QUAYS,RAMPART, RTe., AT LYONS. 137Les Plates (floating mills); work-shops; lavatories; boats and bargesloaded with coals, timber, corn, stone, fruit, and 60 forth, as called for bythe wants, ind ustry, and speculation of man.On the land side of thesequays, against the cliffs, they are, as said, now busily building houses,running them \lp to the height'of a hundred feet, tied by powerful beams(obtained from the romantic country the Chevalier Hamilton so enthusiasticallydescribes). But they build at half computation expense,for their houses have no back walls. A precipice of dry aIJuvial sandwith veins of gravel renders aIl impervious, and aH human aid unnecessaty.N ever was so much capital expended on a foundation of solittle itJtrinsic vaJue: at land at least! a capital, too, that will pay itsinterest weIl. Sorne of this natural rampart is laid out in the Chinesetaste; for circumstanées producecoincidences in this article :-terraces,inc1ined plane ascents from platform to platform; these latter plantedwith ornalllental trees, in the number of which the weeping-wiilow tastefullypredominates; and gay buildings for enjoying the magnificenliprospect which presents its~lf in front, as weIl as along the course of theriver. \iVhen these trees are so grown as to overshadow the roofs of the:>adjacent houses, the effect wiU he ascurious as pleasing; for they willappear togrow from the very houses themselves. AIl illdicates goodtaSte, rational speculation, and sound judgement; and the citizen oftheworld feels a gratification in th~ idea that such foundations wiU not disappoint,based as they are upon the anticipated prosperityof apopulationofonehundrpd thousand souls, for whose recreation theyare laidouL This chain of heights'attains to four hundred feet, and extendsto the junction of the two rivers.The ranges of houses on them, detachedhowever, extend over their whole face, each with its plot ofground.VOL. Il.It 8eems as if determine~that not a foot of vertical superficiesT

138 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.should remain unbrought iuto account.Most of these houses are of~everal stories~. The prospect up the riveris very grand,to the magnificent (In externalappearance, and from a distant point of view,) mansion calledDela Pape, on the height. Beyond this are the projecting points of thepredomioating western bank, over awillow fiat by the river side ;be..yond these are the mountains, and their delightfulaccotnpanÎl:nent-auaccurnulated mass of wool-pack clouds.'The opposite oreastern shore isa tract; of aUuviaL.meadow, builtover in detached tenements too.Bere abthismotnent (Decetnber 1)the herbageis shooting freely; as wen it may, when, in animated life,the horse-dung fly is active, and the litt]e wàll-lizard putshimselfoutto bask. Thermometer,mid-day, in the shade, 54:--at six in the evening;in the open air, 53. The mountains to thesouth-east are nowcovered with snow totheir visible bases. The eastern bank of theSoaneis also cornpletelyfaced with aninclinedwall'ofhammered stone.A~greatbustleprevailsall alOng thesè qüaJs; and llow,.atfivè .o'e1pckin.theevening, the citizens,such as stone..cutters, continue at work.Thus~too, in theopenl country, at sixin the tmorning the Jokes of' oxen)Vere going totheir work'a;.;6elt1; and nearly three hours advahtagemlthe side of active life lS possessed over us Hyperhoreans, who ha'~e to.fetch it up by sorne countervailing·effort of ingenuity or labour.Thç river atthe jupctionof tne'two contributory streamspresents atruly noble appearance.---Some may say it holds out invitation as theresidence of agod.This; however, to otihers will hardlyjustify the 1nterpolation'ofan alien-and in snch an uncongenial location too! atown-hall! Enough to cllill aU hope frompoetical ideas.-····vVherebefo~'e1l1entioned, however, this n0ble streatla appears atlea.steiglit hUll,,:

LITHQLOG'Y, VEHICULATION, ETC. 139dl'ed feet wide.'I\vo bridges are over the Rhone.The stone bridgehas twelve main arches, and two annexed ones on the east side.TheSoane has seven bridges, not an at this moment passable, but in pro..gress of heing so. The Rhone has also an occasional pont volant. Thewooden bridges taketo1J, being private capital.Those smitten with the love of lithology will hereàboutfind where..with to indulge themselves; and amongstothermatters, a stone whichrings when struck, like basaIt.Another of black hue,icontaining thepatella ungarica, (vulgo limpet,) with fragments of oyster much decayed,andèockle in fragments, 'but undecayed (Barl'ingtonJslusus naturœ,)and unœîisèêJlaured;wlll give them something to think, upon.Tn.e' 'toulage ..vehiièulationis very active here,. advertising itselfforevery direction-Italy, Switzerland; and Amsterdam.The ingenuity of the handicraft· peoplé here is very striking. Whatefegantarticles of furniture, sets of drawing~room chairs for instance,are wrought, chieHy bythe hands of WOIneu and children, out of scrapsand fragments of hazle-stick and split osiers!A remarkable precocityappears in thechildren :---a boyof twelve years of age superintendedand directed the whole procedure of a forge, the putting the entireringiof iron round .a coach wheehon a matter of emergency ;hi8 mother,thewidmy, contemplatinghim during the process with an .eyeofadmiration and exultation. Anotherbo.n ofithe sameage, ismetonhorseback, his viaticum andparapluietiedto his saddle,apparent]y arich farmer's son, directing with theeaglé eye ofa general the route 'Ofa string ofcorll carts.A very fine peasantryis seen thrOiugh the wholeofthe route or tract of country betweenParis and l.yons.-.Bh..egabardin"es,like those of the Kentishpeasantry, hut probably adopted fromthatofFlanders, have become the costume hepe"and agood one theyare.'Vith the exception of the ear-ring, the British and .French pea..T2

140 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FltANCE IN 1814.santry differ now (very ml1ch otherwise in former days) hardly totheeye.-Populous as this place is, a considerable quantity of dwellingspace is offered to the best bidder. On the other hand, a great fauxbourgextends itself now, beyond the ,,,ooden bridge. Entering Lyons,-and indeed the traveller of to-day will note the appearanceelsewhere,-arenumbers of houses of frame-work and clay, tiled, withprojèctingeaves, evidently the lVork of personsanxious to get into imme...diate occupation or possession, for various purposesp,robably, butwho, from waut· of means, or of confidence· inappearanees, wonId notlay out capital.rrhis was probably the first· effect of the revolution~and what cornes nnder the eye bears about tlmt date.Great politeness,with activity of accueil, are noticeable in the conduct of thetradespeople here.Coalshave been mentioned.This important article of statistic aswell as domestic accommodation has beeu reckoned among the ~fi.ciencies of }'rance, but probably without due reason. ,Water carriagewill rectifyaU this. No want of the kindexistsat Lyons,except inthe inclination to make aH the blessing of this donation ot Pl~ovidencewhich that Power intended for use. rrhey are brought here fro~n Rivede Gex, ten leagues, and St. Etienne, twelve leagues\distance to thesouth-east, towards the heads of the Loire, the principal part of theway hither by water.as the other.slack.Those of St. Etienne are not ofsogood a qualityThey are seen here in lumps as our round çoaI, aIsoasThe beds are worked by, shafts.Calcareous matter is advertised here (rare for France) for manu.re;oddly expressed-à fumer les terres.To reach l.1yons from Caiais, a great tract of country is traversed, andit Icannot he supposed such a one should he destitute ·of intetest.­Paris "too, which, like el'ery capital, is m~verou,tof theway, is an

AGRICU~TURËIN THE NORTH OF FRANCE. 141obj.ecttosetthought in action.-A few ideas present themselves to ob..servationàod recollection on these heads.Agricultural Notes on the North of France.-..· Great breadth of wintercorn sown....-gotearly into the ground-'Wheat too bright, anexampleof· theclisappo.intfucnt attendant on toobright earlyprospects­Fences aboutiusticmc:nages here ancl.there-incipient planting-notduly select in their trees-the witchelm, useful for rnstic implements,predominates-some good fencing is oçcasionally seen-plough too fast-the wheel-plough" with that inestimable servant of all-work thehorBe, two or three in fl'Ont, and three ploughs abreast; one man to the'plough~8QWverJ:thiek-·furfow weIl.White rnanure-burning-Iowstock of winter fodder-ha1 badly rnanaged-insensibiJity to the sweetsof after-grass.-·Little space leftfor spring corn.Notes of the Route;-.Many in thetçnvns have tbeair des(Jtuv1'é, butinto.Kication isvery rarely seen.'fhe chalk country is a summit .levelin France as in England. Inclosure is not atternpted on it. Noyon isits boundary; on the other side is a tract of foliage and inclosure.Double plough, triangular harrow, and garden-rake used in the field"Broom is.the natural covering of the soil at the paraHel of Montreuil..No formidable species of the thistle tribe shows itself until north ofAbbevilLe. The. vineYl:wd ceases at the Oi.se.root the fallo.ws.The swine are aUowecltoVef'Y few tarne geese seen througllOut }'rance; what~J1e, are 9f a larg~ size. Penning. of sheep i8 just perceivable. Red:-­brown cattle, \Vith white faces-apparently the oJjigin of the Herefordbreed with us. Some oftbe favourite yeUo\\' k.incl here also~ AboutAmiens turf (tourbe) is iudigenous both ta snil and c1imate.On theOise it seem,S rather an .exp·tic.Oa,k feUed in winter. without beingbarked. 7 So111e ground on this Ioute. unturned on the first of May-aràre l:!igbt. SOIlle too 1eR as not worth turning. North of St. Just, a

14.~ SECOND JOURNEYTHROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.dec1ine in the fruit-trees indicatesan obviousdeterioration of climate.France may come justly under the denomination of a woodland cOUntryas far as the Orse and Clermont on that river.Much spring oornis sown to the north of the Oise. The FrenchshO\v more judgementin the management of their waters than of theirwoods. The rusticbuildings are sharp-ridged and thatclred in the north. ln the 'centre ofFrance, slate ischieHy in use; and in the south tiling is univèrsatCLUIATÊ.-An improvement on thishead isnoticeableat Abbevillein the vigour of growth of the Lombardy poplar: ~faY.:;bt1ish ihftîHblossom AprilSOth.Labourers'employed on the roadsde'Oouring masses offat bacon !!PARIs-a great city.The laconism of this opinion '\Vas not qùi:tesatisfactory to one of its inmates, who '\Vas solicitous for its full scopeofeffeotupon a foreign visitor. He Inighthave had pleaded to him, inextenuation fdr deficiency of impression, and consequently expression,that primary principlewhich says, 'Vhatever is receivable Is prdportionateto the capacity of the recipient. But pèthaps thisWbuldnbt have sufliced in a national causé. Hel'e isin fact much to admire,anÔ a considerable matter to amend. Any one, however, who has notgiven to such amass of social establishment, possessing the peculiaradvantages it possesses, the time it c1aims, has notemployed the lei·sure of his life,if it possessed any, duly. It is a placehighly '\Vorthjrof advertence. A person does not usually resortto a city Însearch ofthe picturesque. Yet the placêand thequality are compatible. Parisis worthyofremark, as beingpaHicularly possessed of pleasing pointsand stations'of views. It is said, and hy very accurate observers too,that no sensible difference inpointof climateexists between Londo.nand Paris. This, however, others deny. Undoîlbtedly,inpbihfofelêâr-­!lessof atinosphere the French capital bears the palme How different

FUEL AT PAIns, ETC.a'reits present inrpates from those of the old 'l'egime 1 In the proportionof\,perhaps one in ten tlwusancl, a proof specimen of the Frenchman of1784 presents hirnse]f, calling up to the mind the painfuI reflection ofthe scenes he must have witnessed. Gracious Heaven! what must be hisrefleetions on the. series of.evehts! !FUEL,Paris;;""Cornparisons out·of the question, the winter of Parisis very severe, and the mol'C so ashouses are not duly secured againstcofd.In time the Parisians will learn the sweetsof a Parliament \VÜlter.Arichsenator from Touraine, whowisely wished to enjoy comfoDt,ihadaIl the apartments. which he took for the term of bis politieal dutiesfitted"up.wÎ,thGerman stoves, the on]y powers ofheatsufficient for thepurposes oftbisdimate.Fuelis, however, anartide of too immettiateinteres! tOi every strangermottohe advertedto, to the utmost. Acubeofsix:J'rench feet of wood costseightyfrancs,and\viU last on~dittt7abouta month__not permitting the ashes to be removed, coveringearefullywith them theglowingembers at night, in which statethey remainuntilmorning; and using such dùe and necessary expedients as the enjoyersof the sea·cüal 6re in the snug pariour of London are little habituatedto.advert to.Eacb billet, five sous, six of these; the clea·ving of a pieceof timber ofafoot diameter will last through the evening.La Cité, as it isc1.enominated, marks the rudiment of Paris. Her.ewere placed, that ls as bigh as navigationJudged it'expedient to penetl'ate,the pillarsof the nauticHereules: this spotmal'ked,the hôùnds oftheuniversal navigators. Sorne littie of advantagein poiot of position.ontbebank, or io the stream, withconvenienc.e oftiding up inlandthereto, general1y over Europe indicatè the system:: as nantie adventureconnects itself moreover YvltÎl tradition, which tells \:lB of\f·estal sacrifices,ships,.serpents, and sa fhrth ;l..l.-forreligiOIfalways bore a part in the

144 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.drama~ Superstitions formed a part of the imports, and nodoubt a readyvent was found for their distribution. Not to spe,ak of the Tiber-llereon the Seine we have the Isle Louvier, with the renigmat;icalandallegoricalideas of the wolf nurse-(inde Louvre.)The dimensions of this city may be taken, diametrically, as four Englishmiles by three; the lines striking through La Cité and the site ofNôtre Dame, placed probably on the original sacriticia.l ,stone. Theprimitive navigators repaid themselves for their trouble by barter; e~portedsuperstitions, and brought home ~richreturnoffabulo~lse~aggeratio}~and mystical romance, to travel round the world inother directions.Population aggregated and ultimately fixed itself here, andParis has finalJy become what we now seejt. Rome's proces's, toaUappearance, was the same, but at a much anterior period; ,and a similar,one may with probability be as;cribed to Lqudon,ofwhich its ançienttower may be considered the nucleus. The"Boulevardes corre-1spand with our London Wall, Barbican, and the precincts of as, mucllas could be placed within the defence of towers and ctu:tai,ns,flnd theBarrières are a,nalogous to our Temple- alld Bolborn-Bars;' wbichwere 'Ilotinchlded within the fortifying system.The picturesque, as relé;ttive to a city, has been alluded to: it

ARCHITECTURE, MENAGERIE, BûTANIC GARDEN. ]45ofthe atmosphere favonrs, too, the impression of theseobjects.Sorneconnect no idea in the way ofbeauty with civic architecture, but whatconsists with identity and uniforrnity :" That cuckoo's note,Ralpho; thou always harpest on't."Repetition lS notharmony. Others, again, can find neither conceptionnor expression for beauty, but in" the term variety. Most people are.struck with the effect of the streetSt.George's HanoverSquare, withoutknowing the reason why: just as ignorant as he who laid it out was ofthe effect it would produce. Not 50 ignorant were,however, the ancient:Egyptians :-·by theÎr structures we see that they were fully apprised ofthe effect ofreduction comhined with distance on the eye, and the beautifulresults that might be extracted therefrom. The Calle de Alcalàat M"adrit, heretofore mentiorted, is the finest modern specimen wepossess in this way. A fastidious critic in traversing this fine city(Paris), and casting his éye over its embellishments, would be inc1inedto say of the triumphal arch in the Tuilleries, that the biped figures aretoo large, injnring the effect. of the borses which are intended for theprincipal objects. That the column in the Place de Vendome has itssurnmit too bald of decoralion (the cIimbing of futile vanity out of the.question) for 80 highly wrought a shaft; a.nd that the new front to theTuillerics, of the Corinthian order, has its basement of a plainness which.does not harmonizewitb the beautifur richness above. So hard is it togairfor retain in human hands that consistency which in those ofNatureis ne\'er deficient.'nIe ~fenagcrie, and its arljunct the Botanic Garden, come, the oneliterallyand the other metaphorîcally but col1oquially, under the defillitionof the Lions of Paris; and are ta be visited&s such byaH who would~peak ofthis city as baving visitcd it. The abjects .indeed are entitle

ta the notice of curiosity in tl1emsePves. ln fne former; the a'ttendantinentioned tnat thecameF could not be bronghtr to generate. 'PRishas been elsewhere adverted to.8ureiy tneit Hlrùstrious couIl1'1;pymanthe great Buffon could not have' been silent on the subject.ln theaviary, amidst aH the beautiiul varieties of the pheasant tribe, no trace.D·ft inJormaÜon ~:onJdbe- obtained. of the francolin of tInie south:-west dfFrance. ls the species extinct.? OG the gaF'den tIlle arratngement 1& no·d.ouibt scientific: it has tue more obvions merits, too"o1t lI>eiilllg- :Ïllllitel,.ligible and. accessible to aU; as. has, ind:eed, i1: mnzrstibe-a1clrJJliÏllted.,.evierytlliling in theway OF scienlêé he,c,wkere oh e,verry occalsion a petTson pre..eceFl,ts himse~faible and wiŒngto sIlow. Vatils aIle taken, !D'ut they are uote~aeted, and hardJ'y seemexpeeted. As- ta the comnnmity, it does not.seem t(} t'hink payment could possi.bljbe leoked. for, fÔfany tlling thatis t0' be see'n by day-light. The IiheraIFty w'itk whiclt the wm:ks oj'art ofaIt descriptions are tht:OWFl open here to the admirati~t1 ~t' llHlF1kin~ completely

147f.JippO;~jt~.,~lititb.~ ;i,p~~r;v~ntion of the. period of thirty y~ars does the ip­'Jllates of this one and the same city., considered as previous and su.ba~quenttheretq. 'Vhatever man .may bebrought to in advance, it isimpO;ssible "to.briqghhn back towhat he was.If he cannot do it (or'bimsel:t~ihpwis.hetp dp it, ,for others? Yet we will speculate !Buttor~~"'l~n t().Jh~ .arts. He.l;e is Dq!v..the wOH.der of the pencil-The Transtig",ration.'See.the.olilservatiops .qn t.hat .of Nll..estra Senora clel Pe:z~))Vihereis the iman bold enough Jo cond.emn himself by.a l'eprobationQf tthe ,wbole ,imagination, t.he cODccptionof this idolized picttlrenowtb.ere? .Que av.pws.4iuts~lfso,goingfurther in that direction than the ableJQr,l!t~lCt,Wl~()Se OtQscJZMations,behas extracted *. Having frankly avowecl1?husttllluch,he.wiU:ablitaiq trPklbl,iqgothers wit.h specifications of a de~t~cription:iheyareby ·UOfme~ijS tinc~ine,d,t9 listen tQ; but. ~.urJ;lt~Lh~o:workspfthe present day, enQngh to itIlmoJ,'talize any painter, and:almost ;be,YfO;:u.~,ihe hand of.tbe artist.whq \\'Tought then1, eveq Dav.id:,.,...The Interposition·ofthe Sabine "Vomep,i;l,pJLeonidas the Evening·befme the;Battle,of\Marathon. Wb;at suliljewtstoselect !. what taleIlts to:eJfeet! Thisl,artist has the sil1gtllarone ofgiving il1visibility to his canya§s:,thefigper6s pre8entthems~lves,'Jbutwhat they are.done on xemains tO,ibeiguessed. ~Ehe;Spr:boune, formedythei;uidusof pedantry, anddeserv~

148 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.sense of excellence) that man gains ground iohis moralobjects.gained by one is for the benefit of aIl.The National Institute must~A fiteptoo, prescntitself as an object @f thefirst interest to a stranger anxious for the fate of Science, everan uuwillingsojourner in the scene of alarmsand politieal convulsions.she has maintained her post here, it is the utmost that can be hoped.And what a 10ss to mankind should her enemies,-and many sile hasin the present day,-frighten her from any one of her bowers on eaJltb,back to her parent skies f l\fay we yethope she Isso complete)y domi...ciliated, as that there remains no fear ofour losing her altogether tforher constitution iswhat Is c1enominated of the nervous kind, and she hasbeen subjected to more alarms than befit a delicate person.however, here, she is neither Bed nor preserving her incognito.IfAs yet"Hervotaries meet, and strangers are admittedto their (public) sittings,with the same faeility that prevails elsewhere on the subject.Themeeting is on Mondays at the hour of three o'clock. The society lscomposed of four departments, for each whereofisa respective secre...taTY; and such as have communications to malte must ascertain thebranch of science they relate to, in presentîng thern for th,e purpose tothat secretaTY to whom they properly devolve. Thedepartments, be itobserved, have their respective times of meeting. About forty membersare present.Wheu a work is presented, it is done by thesecretary,wbo reads the title, and gives what explanationhe judges necessary(a cursory one): it is then referred to a member to rt~ad, and make hisreport on at an ensuing meeting; which heing done, t~lepresidentputs the question "that this report beadopted?" which it may heiudged is rardy but a nem. con. procedure.ln the various communications made to this learned body duringthe day here under obsen'ation, the weight and importance 6f"inatter

'rUE JNSTITUTE OF FRAN CE. 149were 'decidedly in favour of what was British.A flattering view for asuhJect of that nation. Excellence stands totally distinct from thechurlish sentiment of engrossment. M. Humboldt, to whom generalknowledge is so much indebted, was present, and announced an intendedvoyage by some person distinguishedly fitted for the undertaking,from Russia to the northpoJ.e, to take place in 1616 and the subsequentyears.--oA member l'carl a treatise on mushrooms, describingtwenty-one kinds ascertained not to be deleterious.-A professionalmember produced a ftlodel of a, bed, adapted to afford reliefto sufferersby a fracture of the ti"bia.-AB essay on hydrostatics, was also read'~""""'}'hese wereiaHiD< :P1'ellch., :M. D'Arago, in whose charge is at presentthe ohservatoryof Paris, was one' of those laborious scavalls , who werefor nine years emp.1oyed in, the measUfe' of the arc,'@f the meridianin

150 SECOND JOUR NEY THROUGM 'FRANCE IN 1814.principle andpracttice intoexe.c\ttion

,151ti@RS lID_t>pe;! I:Jt>w' l'eng the peniod' dll;ring Virhich they have beend1tl'& O{neal'ly) side>by side! Yet h~),w, mal'ked 3:lm~. DOW, and have evel'bi{ilen"themoval distinction& prevalent in ea1Ch! Ami although the continentalcity be now so efi~€.ti'vely,io'. the 14l11elient clay, difterent t'roto theParis of former da~s, ÀOlW lântle approacb in the way of resemblancehasshe lllacie, (i!)rSe6meql:. iniClilled: ef.likelty to malte, to her great rival!'1'0 revert to the intenv'ell.in'g.c(i)l~ntl1y.,fi:onlthe Cllanllel to Lyons, andtÀe interests W}Üdl it pres.ents-For the route on observaÛol1 must notbe SIliIpp:t:essed: and let th.e l'ea.der recollect his schoollessol~-"Felit'qf#.t;e.'ia~izli'll,tit &o•...,.,-trite,b!ij.st true; ;;lnd,this is intended for his welfare.ln everyupon the l'oute certainly where pa)'l1l.ent isto be made and .ta,kell~ itisiab&olut.;ely aecessary to makethe harg~incfuUy beforehand, the wor~s "tO'llt:t comrp.l'is" are a150 nearly as 11l!UUlla,tiqnof' p!l'ice if) an absolute pileviousrequisite-the availingpf(:)ICe

1 ~(.)V''ZI SECOND JOURNEY THROUGwH FRANCE IN 181.4.imagination of the painter of the Flemish school-Veal, mutton, carp,cels, turkeY8, fowl8, aIl rearly dressed, with sorne dozen of Iarded larksas minor satellites!-Whence are the people to come to Consume ailthis food, or whither i8 the food to betake itseIf for consumption?AIliedaI'mies and defending ones ure equally now \vithdrawn.VILLENEUVE. MELUN.-November 25. Thermometer at 36.Sorne new building rising-Young plantations of fir and larch-,formerapparently of the stone-pine species.-Query, Why this.l5election?-·Here is a breed of caule which strongly presents itselfas..theparentstock ofthat branell we caU the Herefordshire, but which was originallyfQ1:lndedin 'Vorcestershire: the pedigree is DOW somewhat hard totrace, but family likeness is often the strongest record.The forest of Fontainbleau has some tracts of the true pictures

NEMOt1RS,LA 'FROISIERE, J!ONTENAY. 153consptêUOl1Sk if such bethe cause.The roadis covered with a noblel(')ot

154 SECOND JOURNEV THROUGR FItANCE IN 1814.llO good'êLUherge. This ls a summitlevel(hills not considered). Tbemar'....ket crowded and busy-manufactori~sforgeneral purposes.......a pleI1ti..fuI suppIy of meat offered to whoever will buy-a hea)thy, decent,. 01'­derly peasantry; water is at cOl11mand hete for generalpurposes.-Thedun~hill here, (however offensive to the eye and other sem~es~) as ln theearly rudimcnts of sociallife, oCètlpies a part of thé tenement..(Thus,in the primitive associations of ancienfGreeèe, the wl1ite cropswere'carried to be thrashed out within the waUs of the city.'1'hingsmustt&ke time in their courSé). This è8:teÔ'f tfie' icl!nng1!li'l!t,"aM··thé;dili.gence used t0allgt'llent j,t, indlèate· thata staple of human life anùpO'p'ttlatifJn, in the ttué basis "&f' aggrandi.zement of indivrdua.I and prosperityof national society,-the commoJ:lâ'Hy of the natioti,........isèominginto generai usé hete [ Such is the facto rrl1'e nature of thé' soi) héte i8adapted to tnat esclllentarticte thepotatoe,so impottanta nurse of-thepêBsant's 'nenfJg'e,which l'cars himallUl1léroU!& fîtl1liJy of f'Uff'dy chil..flrénto aid the labours of his later lIfe, a;ttdstippliês liÎlQ, withaf!at..tened hog, for his èhimné" or formafket, eteryühristmasf"vitHthêrê:..fuse. But much ffi&te ishereby prO'vëd}n~m.é11,it p'l"'(i)ves the Înti...matë tonoe:xidtl a;ttainedheteb~'t\Veen themanandtbë soil, by Wflfèhooth are so much benefited; between wlüeh divorce cannot exist \Vith.out the wholestate Ianguishing; a connexion mûch more importantthan that of capital; or, indeed, whatis nlanua} labour but the mostp6\VëtfuI of capitals?A good breed of swine isnot yet introducedhere: but the peasant will soon feel the advahtage of so doing; thoseh

MONTABtiHS, Ntl41E.T Ifi'ltVENAISSIN, LA JHJSSIERE. 155'fla~'Bafl)ist:errlJg,j;1l;()US graveJ! Th~ Upper Loire aiQ.d someof the hBads~f~1l1e Seine here appr,axim:t!,te. T;hr. SUlYmit..,level af tl~e i\yater$ UthetweenJ...IA COMMODITÊ'-where is na aube,ge, aJldNQGE1~TTflj[1R, VElliA~SUN, which is alike deticie,ot in this respecttothe traveUer. HereawQ:tef Îscrossed W'bich~tiIJ runs northward, sabelongs tathe8eille. Thejsluggishness a/the currents demonstra:tes thehorizontality of th;e surface in gene.Il.al; althoug4 it is here formed intoundll~a:tionsoflaIlg.eextent, b:ut VerlY little fise. Theswe.epsof rivel's areinprap:ortion ta the bOI'~~ootalit.vlof tl}.eir ,co:\ilrse. 'l':his latterJying,as ituSBa:u,dQes"het~eeDs:trati;}.Jl.Hferipg in Itheir;iQatw:e; assuredlya:o ~,tl-:­v:eSitigationinlto :principl(}s.bere:\ilpon.migbtberewar~eldwith 80Q:le Ü;}-:-sigiht intothe hither:toditt1e q.nderstoodltheor;}~Qfsp:rings~ .,Here is for the :finst ticme ,seiCn .c(a. ·1f.ar~ty i~ ,the pr:ese:t;lt .cJ.ay) a .:Wtil~,t

156 SECOND JOURNEY THROUG,H FRANCE IN l'SM.angularly, is singulaFly pleasing..Some ground is attached to it,which a nook laid off among the ri.ght angles, for a specrmenof Englisbgardening taste, has q:uite enough of it to cure the people herc of therage of imitating their neighbours.BRIA:RE', NEUVY sur Laire, COSNE, POUILLy........ DestitutloD' ofaube~ge$.-ToPouilly the little towns .are picturesque'by their irregula'"r,ity, their dingy yel10wish wans, and mossy roof'S. Steps,windows,aHtogether present subjects: that w~uld bear the canvass. N~itllerdj]a..pidation nor j,mprovementseems. to haveac.cutrcd',dutimg;thelastii'ev@;nt.:­fu]: thirty years. The magnificellt Loirehere, aIready so near hits' head}tigureSOl:lt in aU his, i,mportance,., in volume to strike the eye, andaflofording reflection to the mind in his· applicatiouto that lirst branch, of,statistics-inland water-carriage,y,.~ From the hill abQve' Pouillyriveris traceable for many mil~s upwards:toits'souree. This tract"as far as the eye can reach" i5 aU dotted with singleh(.)usesiiria wa:,not expected to' be seen in France ;. among which are fal'm..estahlish..ments, in sca,leand number sufficiellt fOfiany cQluntryocccountry of h€dge-r@~Ys;'but thesehed.ge...rows are110t sUffidently Hm..lbered. This 18 the ouly la~k of'improvement ~u1:y in the face of Natuveobsei!vahle. A little is h@wcver no~v: doin.gin this way., anel eve~:y thingbelow here must have a beginning.'11he under soüis a,ftinty graveJ,11 Man.has fluttered about the light of improvement long withoutadopting"as if dazz}ed, or ~.if theifCollsequences were too much for his mind. Sluices were inventedin ltalyin the .fifteenth .e~nsury(China is out of the question for our purpose). Charlemagne hda grand idea of connectingthe Rhone and the Danube. The c~alsof Fran~e were'stl'llck out in the latterpart·of the seventeenthcentury; (that of the South in 1681). TheCanal de Briare was the first effort(1642). TheCanal du Centre joins 1l0W the Saone to the Loire. ST. QUENTIN is an important point in tbisbrandI of national procedure. Bere join the navigations of the North and of the South bya communicationbetwecll the bason of the Seine and the northern rivers. (The canal of Chaunay therethe Oise and which last was not navigahle.)' Tunnels were adopted here,piercingthe elcvationthe heads (lI' restmvoirs of the Seiue, Somme, Scheld,.and ~V1CU."'C'"

tbe;r:rHe'tâ.llic>tingef'aillt,BRIARE, POUILLY, LA CIlAR:ITE, ETC. 157Schistesc day, and much appearance of acoal...Hkeconnexion, with the usual cold rushy sail fit for the dairy'.';Phisclay supplies pottery manufacture, which takes its position judiciouslyonthe10anks {)f the Loire. Faggoting is the fuelused. Win..ter corn jnl~17eadtllIs>ef;fiftyacres in e.xcellenttillage, though blfO>âdcast,on narrow ridges thrown high,proba1olyon account of the tenacityof .thesoil. Littleelseuntj.lPouilly (wl1ie:his surrounded byvineyards)i:s reached.When Briarc;ispassed>, the acacia seems ta 10e at home:LiAi GHA.;Rl'l1E'.--ESunday.) Abundance of meat exposed for sale. Thisthoseinwhl€bpeople. rrhe viewhence westward is one ofpeui€~ilcanib>tl>tdepict i'tso;wn inade(].uacy.-Lithology~ laminoussand""stone,a.ndij'l'on..stone;·whichlast they are 110W·the road with !- .. ' fevvugiillOlls-tingedgraveL Ptoducts.: mea-\Vheat'i'\'iJJ1Cs"tàmhcr.passesthrOtlgh alDriclge of:· ten arches.lilOWAfi this liHIe townthe Loire narrows, and'l'he' navigati

!~8 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGHFRANGE IN 1814.furze·00 tloes in onr clirnate. No apparent winterstoek·:()ffod.derp.~sents itself.Althoùgh the ~veste:rnorsetting sun view from La Crla_rité defies

MOlJLIN~, VARENNES, BESSAY, ETC. 15Dtracst:(!):fvery cons.iderPible elevati(!)n.-It is adesçent nearly aIl the wayfro:mMoulins to Varennes. This place (Moulins) experiencè, .andit isapowerful reasouer, has convinced pe(!)ple, is in itsair and situation aspecifie againsttha,t se:\{~re affliction to which man alo11e flmong animaIsissubje:eted~tbèsame is thought in regard to Switzerlaud.BESSAY,nO auber~fe.--VARENNES, noauberge.-ST. GERANDLRPUY.Thisis not Varènnes where the nüs..judged :(.Jouis decided his fate byhisgood,nature in settling a dispute between two ladies of his suite,upolllth:eiulpQrtant poin.t whether the dicky or the rUU1,ble..tumble were,/l'his is;now.aJo:werlevelioicountry,andalteratioll m·ay be e.'8:pectedÎfl>point or; climate.cou9'tLt'y. Hedged ::..,-tbesellcdges timbered. Surface di.vi~ed;into.large:paddocks.Thills tlaesoil isdisposed fQI' ~ithe.ftillageorpasturage.: ; CI:heinclosul'e of England grew out of thepasturing sy...stein.)Thesoil:is colt! amfhmnid, fIt for the dairy, and is grazed bya&ll!laIlbreed, l'cd and white, of milch cattle, the butter whereof in itsa~pearaneeprovcs theexceHence of theü~ dairy process. The face ofthe country ishere~gain:tllickly !Btudcl:ed~I.:comfortable andcGm...paetestahlishments.: .Âsrusticbuildings, theyaremselyconstructedof dl!ematel'lals th~spotpresents, clay and thatcn;but, their way; both enliven and beàùltify the country. A greatbcreadthsOWn, exceed·ed of course, .however, by the rye;the narrmv l'idges. A:goodmany new rustic buildingsare springillg "",Tise JIlenare makingplantations of what we calItheChesterpopla:r, emubitingSpenser':s "Âsh for aIl things good,:" ........and much exceeding it in rapidity of growth.Approaching GERAND (rare object'!)actlateau is seen on the left,

150 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.pleasiQgly and peculial'ly situated, flan~ed by woods cutting the horh~@nwi-th a bold~y-markedhere isstrongly undulated.outline, and altogethcr picturesque. 'rheeountryThelitbology presents gravel; notsllexasheretofore, but rubble, just sueh as i8 seen ol1sea.,sl1ores, intike mixtureand proportions; a]soporous stone, and arnorpflOuss3Bd..stone: sub..,soil whitish clay.hazel (Deeember) is now in b]os80m.LA PALISSE.Mountains eome into view in thesouth-east.TheA post, and also an œuberge;jntlre yard whereofjisamost superb baptismal font of the n.LJ;i"'i:>b U!fltn~ i$itawtuI'tirj'f;mil!it;l1'iflte':iiis.TUi:lipable of conta·ining as·muchas a bogsheaci;now'serving, (devolutionindeed !) as ailrinking-trough for cattle!teau.Hard ny this place is a cha..;Approaching it, fern and broorn shrubbery, birch in the timbertribe, predominating, indicate the sandy soil about toshow .itselp, yield"l'ing. only rye, and too often pOOl' crops·cven of" that;hardlYiveturningseed, and wbicn in England could not reipay oultivation:...........but.be itre..collected bow little the :Erench farmer has·· topay for hiscultiva~i!Qili.Î.The lithology offersuot .only massive.b~utstratified;/gt·anitte,+SOimewhereof i8 red; and of this substance.,the..;$Qil, . it may be aUowed thename, seems·the decomposition. Horn-stoneisals:ô seen. '1'0 the southof La Palisse is indeed.»;,what rarelyoccllfS, laminous gnulite !A fine breed of cattleir,resentsitsdfhere, indraught buHocksyokedby the horns, and eRcb weighing, if fl~Hy fattelled, not less th.msevenhundred .French pounds.'Vbether the },'rench farmer is able to l'aisethem to their full profit l).lay beyet a problem.; but·jf he do 11ot, it iaDot from want of" the inclination to make the most of" whut he haseTwo cows OP thesmall size (for hore are obviously different breeds),their dugs drawn to a degree of exhaustion of the proceclureof which

..lt01TUltIElt, ST. 'GERMAJN, ETC. 161'Wc eaen form no conception, nor of the machinery whereby it can he"performed,yoked thus by the horus, their wbole -tackling not amountingin value tQ three francs,are daily seen here in this country drMving"in a cart six $acks offlaur, twelve hundred weigbt at the very least,œhese aninudstruly pay theirkeeping, and atcompound interestJA bracket pig, prohahly .ohtained by a mixture with the Spanisb,throughout this country DOW tak.es the place of the taU long-sidedugly white one (which has, however, its mcrits in its own way), andis (inits way? a llandsome animal.DROI';l"VRl"E;iR,. »0 ,(Ulberge.-8T. MARTIN D'EsTREAUX, no au­,b.erge.- . .L:âPACAUDIERE, an auberge.-ST... GERMAIN L'EsPINASSE.--ROANNE.-ST,. Sn\!·PlilOR.IEN pE. L.t\y.-PATN BO,(JCHAIN.-The-emb and white .Jihorn have not:ye.t (Deoember lst) entirely Jost theil'Jea:ves hcre.TA RARE.-From La Palisse to this place is a highly interesting 'tract..About the town 'of Droiturier are bold c.upola-formed hills; beyond.them ohtuse-angledmountains, theJatter in theiroutline indicating their:'material. ':Phe flourishing appearance of the oak here pro:ves it is in itsJ~:vourite bed; but the ma.teriaLon the road is hornstone. Bythesid.

tentHng over the vast 'trad: of fertile: COll'ntl':rtofhe ll)ân~~ 01~}1e !R116tfe.On the traveneris rlght ate, as before m'erltion~d, tf1emotlntflillf;ofA!tlivergne,with their very aharacteristic Mnd interèsi1:iug fea:tures',' btlt ~]()­sing in his view on that siclE', that it müy :not'be distractedftindtfiegrand one on lIis' lett 'by so much értfeelJlecl.ancîen regîme is here in sight!One solitâry 8hfttéân of13uildings af'ltum'}j}e':r pretensions, butequaUy essential to the commnnity (which l'Jas neê'dcr'fa'Pl ' ), a,rcetio,vproceeding with.As to the littleandph~trlresquertiiS'tic estâ'11l 1 fghmen,tsin the furrows of the mountainJs faœ,ettilJoS

1631Wb;ic;ie~ght ~n::hesL of stOQe ~fe uow in pl'ogr~~~. of }:nülding. ~t is, narvi..Sj:),QJe,yet. thirty JUiles ,highcl', ,vhich must be very Deal' it.s heads, andtq); a CO"J~,e. qf COq); b,unql'ed mUes tb,rough tb,e lUost fertile tracts of..ir~n·çe qr Eu.rqpe, be.re cQJ;lJ;lecting with the commerce of t~e Levant,'We$t.w~r~ with tbe. AU~ntic! From this town the traveller must take~n addition~J horsç t9 St. Sirnpqqrien; and fndeed he will be speedil!~qJ;wiuced .ibis is 1l0S"pçrel'ogation, for a. mostform.idable post :nowDl'esents itself~to dr,aught c~ttle at le~st. This mountain assuredl.y;JJlust, ..",.." .:.....•..' , .•..he, ,classed, ,witbi:" ,:',those'J',,',.of tbree thous.and fcet elevatioD.'C." c,.,., ,,' ,. .." :.,...... ..Its..fea-,t"r~~ arç v·ery ~tri~iI]g. rr»e h9·rses the post-house supplies are care­4t St. ShnpllOrien on tbe summit,the pQSt"hoQ~e.jsalioLtpeq,vl?f'I[~~, a.~~ i.sapçxcellent specim~n of p~efuIviatorial institution on its mQs ..t..e~tensives.c. a.le ;a.ll is a

614 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH F,RANCE' IN 1814;subject, should such leisure be afforded by a lifehitherto little blessé'tfwith the sweets of indolence;Botany does'Dot seem to be pursuedwith that interest in regard to the elucidation' its' objects could thro\V'upon situation, clirnàte, elevation,. soil, and< temperahtre; hs votariesseem to be most interested in classification; which is a~suhjectholdingout little interest' to any bu;t themselves.: in the otlfer respect it w'Onlelafford a truly interesting subject to a travelf'èr: Sornething' aboott-his mountainstrikes' as very distinctively ehal'Rcteristic' {rom·· theseDoble and- interesting fearures ofnature'in'ot1rownlàtitûd:ès~SélIis:tisfound about'ilssouthernbase.--Tarareis·situated on· its skirts, thOUeghDeal' its fbot.-It is no. wonder that tlie ancients personified rnountaitlsasgiants.TaI!areÎs a pface'of finebuildings, in a;style differenLfromwhat hitherto presents itselfin France.ARNAS, no auberge-;-SAI;VAG.NV.-LY'O'NS;. From' Arnas t(')0·Sa~..vagny is a country of ravines...In this route From Paris toLyons fôur cÎÎattJtlut8! i:>f;,aneien' 'Pegi'ltlepresentthemselves. ls establishment tobe upheldby such, propasthis ?-.even with monachism to aid it?Page 23~-QuITTrNGLYONS. Addison remarks, that the essence·ofa letter usually rests in the postscript~An official noticeis hereexliibited,restricting the d'escent of the Rhone, for passengers; to boats ofpublic liçense: and' the"preamble, a very different thing indeed in·hUeman;affairs From the other, announces that it is From a' tender coneemarisïng out of the danger From past and futm-e·aceidents.So says thepreamble; but the postscript leuks out a somewhat of a difficultY experiencedin coHecting the droits or duties exaeted· 8pontheocpasion~IfO\vever, the former mode of journeying is no longer to he l'ecurred,to; and the public boat is now the' vehic1e conveyingbot.hpassetlgersandmerchan~e,articles which cio. not us~aHyveryhap~ily blend,-as

IN"l'EN])ED PALACE OF NAPOLEON .. 165the,a~t~st:woulclsay"hannonize,,"~orofwhich,ofthetwofellow-travellers,tl;J.e, one which bas the powers. of speech and consequently complaint,would hardlydevi'ate from the denomination here adopted to apply thesyponymO'l1S ternl,' goods, to .the companion .of his route; or, if he did,would, inso Jar, ulule!! belie his feelings.Such, at lea8t, is the reilectionwhich the èvents of the presentItinerary impress upon the mind oflümwbo had .the undergoi11g,of them. 'VeU wouJd it have·been, had sovereignauthority thought necessary to have proceeded one step furtherin~~tsisolicitowmess for the travellei6 socurity;. but here, by sorneeasi~alty, ,lik~!the charity, 01' the old man in The 'Vinter's Tale, andperhaps ,!iQ.ffvi,Q;4!ig~tionit .might be urged, from the same reason, " i.twQuld.! have;l~ckedfooting.~'- But" sufficient unto theday is theevUthereof.";Qeseendingff~heRhone, aail quitting;Lyops, .among: the strikingobjectsaround, the site of the intended palace of Napoleon is not to beo;t:llitted"l ;lt.is,a w.et sc,.fub, but situated, al' the juncti:on of two noblenvers. What would it nat have been? The nucleus of a social aggregationprodigious in the ,extent and rapjdity of fits growth beyondallt){ eve.ntheNew World.can aflord!Hs qtlays are of such admirablecOtnistifucÜon,tbeJ ..must ever irem~inof.value, long,. very long aftel' th.eempty,dreallls ofa,mbition have p.flssed away, l;tnd the heads wlûchcoJ,lceivedthem·qflilmbled iuto dust. lt is~haJ;dto say which i8 most transjtQr'y~whichlIlQst'emtPty.·!'To th.e, 2d,of". D.·e.qember .the weather was mild hore,. wüh a westerlywind,andtheatmQspl1ere btmvy~ Itthenvaried tothe north, and becameverysharp : thelIlouIltaiJ1S iQthatdirection were coveredwith snow ;and the Jhermo1ll.eteratmid-dayor ,:l.fler, on the river,. was at 40.withstanding,. the commQu blac~ fly was still inaction.,Not..

'166 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.The western cliffs"* which present themsc,lves as the town is quitted,t'Îse to the height of four hundred feet.D,uly embeUished, whatamag..nincent boundary on that sideto thepTospect fromthe windows ofan1mperral palace! Howrational, how laud.ahle, stlch an uudertaking,compared with the delirious conceptions and exertions ofdest'l't/,tJ~;1Jeambition!Granite schist and bornstone presenttbemselves to theeye of the li..thalogisLThe boatswhich asoend the 'Rhorle'aredrawn

"'~Yi1f}g.fbJumtresises,i88;;fchiteeture.iH the worststyleof the later misnamed GothieHere in l1is progress, iaobedienoeto ·tbie mandale of thehig1:iler'poweœ, tl1e late pope yieldeà up llis breath.Probably hir, lastsentinlent, ifcduly exp'I!es'sed, wOllldhaiVebeen, lilœ that of hispred.e..cessor,w'heOi8:Rether:Î:mll!'):ciriallllandate laid .divine service t.Ulder inter...dii€Jtlion," Ftrtin@medeJI)îo,bisogna someter'se."iT. VA5L'IER.on the·righli ba.ink,wllCre\~asithceVellJl1ghaU, daims FlOS·session of the celebrated vineyards knowl1 by the name of Herlllltage.ftsi!pro~rie1l'orwas veryanxious oU t1:1e isubjiCCt of üeetrade: US ,~i:slles aS Heica surelyas weUand asproQt~blyetJlployedin furthering the gratification of his fellow-man, as in éJ. win,~r~1ài,eorèi1fen'illjS'u:tll"llet~ti!al)jjpi~i~l2l, 1 Vi;aSit!CîQUec·tiou ·of thisdasellaus's_~,vas;nbwJ'!i",eniJig fO"fC011S,uwfltÎ:on in. its clark l~et,reats; au4liatit}8dip;i!()ii'eleElif~r>}irttl~fl'l6ifl6t,ha.cfl tihe ,priee i'llS0l2l1ce plaoes of theoallifks in wa1îllicihHi~Jwa;80~Ill.it1itineà!Butiiihe,titl.le wà:ll, :in is to he hopod,œhllee io_s:1ielhltedvilla;ges ,11e$e'Dt t1lYeJll$€,hresindesceIu;1ing so fat, 00tiJv~!Wes,bm'il bank. l:hisuan,k;;tt PiP~aFS tobe.calasrt d a.yspossessediitsiag.enuityof thollght,asibeN:empiliifiesih~rie.·· iIt tQok~$es:sioBQfarid,ge,the ~dg~,ofwihiehgives the elevated and saliant anglth ,tlle f0ireei?S,open~li\g tOi thebott~l:tbe'el1C wa:ted ..·aJil!fleiis, the·,keep.E'l'om$t. ValifIr è

168 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGHFRANCE IN 1814.in too many other Cases offar more importance, a man cannot know Hievalue of the thing until it is lost to him.here,-al1 are admirable.:Features, tints, buildings,In point of foreground, too, the green flat islands, the banks of bright white grave1, the streams of intervening deepblue water,-aJ1 give a picture of much eharacter; contrasted as it isby the uniformly yellow hills behind., At the sallowsare still green.maf'king a degree in ctimate.Mulberry trees here begin t6 make their appearance,A treOJend01l8 vent de bize from the north, or betw~~en nOftf.\l"'anQ'~IJLSt.lowered the thermometer to 87;· but the human frame (could itbegra­'duated) much lower.inclination, bear testimony to the despotismspllere.Thetrees on the eastside of the Rhone, intheirThe boat having to deliver mel'chandise, 'anctliore:dother terms, more properly got aground:~X'ertionsof a numerous body·emhedded in the sandpayments (fourteen francs pel' headto Avignon, be it observed) lbad,with a prudf'nt foreeast,shortlyafter its departure from Lyons. Somethi,ng nowhegan. t'6 he cireulatedabout difficulties and dangers attendant on the descent .of the river;and in order to carry conviction home .Qfl the subject,.our Pald.nurasnow ran us ashore for the second 'time.Much attention has been paid to this rivec in throwing,if, b~ obliquewalls from its banks, the violent drift of itscurrents•.. The work isexceUeptly executed, as is requisite for resistance of 50 formidable aforce.,Adjacent country on each side, vu}eJ'arid~telrracecj,ofcorn; sheep and cattle tended

ANCONJ.:, MONTELt 1\f A RT. 169NCONE is a village 'On the east bank, near to lV!ontelimart on thebigh road.This village the boat reached between two and three in theafternoon; but merchandize being to be deli\Tered *, the vent de bizecontinuing to blow, evening drawing on, and dangerous rocks threateninglowerthe prudent patron for this onethere, giving his passengers to hope, that, ifthe wind abated, andall appearances were to his satisfaction at eightthe next morning, he, probably, woul,d then proceed Qn his voyage.a very hopeful morning prospect; nOf did the village.,afford a much better one for an evening, for'~malesand strangers the embarrassment wasCommon candour requires it to be said thatthe native fellow-p8'Ssengers, nine of whomout of ten,whether in.or out.of UlJllt'cirml, wert} IIuu:tar,Y, behaved in the handsomest manner.. They,gle step to procure accommodation for themseIves,nOUS(~S for 'the ladies and aliens, stipu...paid for Iodgings and suppers, and tookcare to inform the parties of their precise stipulations, to prevent theirbeing imposed on in the ~orning by their hosts: and all this done,they had, ln,any of them, a league to go in quest of a lodging for them..selves fMONTELIMART, a post-t()wn, is a league distant. It is slightly for..tified à l'antique, and bas a castle of quadrangular architecture. Hereis an instance of the systematic attention paid. by the lale governmentto the benefits ()finland waters. It is unfinished; andis likelyto remain 0111y a monumentofjust corlCeptionsand admirable execution.Bere the scanty returns of the dairy begin to he complained of, sot}latVOL. II.zof corll;.· burthèn abQU1i

170 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.it is probable latitude is DOW making its eifects feH. But be thi8 as itniay, thus much may be depended on, that Providence has taken duecàte of his creatures in a way congenial to the situation in which he hasplaced them; and the destitution of pasture Îs no more thanan annun-.ciation to us of the proximity of the olIve•.. It is to he noticed, that oppositeof investigation, marked by the protrusionwere,; of schist.These are fragments of;'element~ which by leavingextraordiar~,byhappen.to he un~\.llbut thèy callfôr "vU.... v.H.a trace of mundane revolution, more ancient stiJl than that whidil. has.modified our globe for its inhabitants, s.tlCh'aScth~yatpre.Stlfitenjoy it.Hard'by'DoN ZR R E, ol}! the r(»ld,eastof the ivl:}con€~~·.of schist'laid bare/t

t:?1 /~j ( i/>r,t:yf,?

PONT ST. ESP,DI,T, TABAS(JONS .PONT DU GARDE. 171with it iis relatives, t'rd!.B thé Alpsiothe Mediter.l'a~tl,ando1jservebOlv Nature is throughoùt bound together by the tieof-.consistency~On the left of the road, among thehills t is acastle ofthemiddle ages,of the largest>.a:1e,tlnddf. astnlCture weil worthy ·of investigâtion.'V~US dest~tu.beo~!~~ilia.g~;tbsoften, or water to refiect them, cannotP()S$.ss'tftere~n~lnl~fltYQfth~'merit·of. the picturesque. Through tliesetractstfîe fbliag~. is.af.fyet de:ciduous, QU t be!gins to blL blendedwithevergreenoak.The under,tood is;box,. with sorne juniper; theworstôftestsofsoil, in the wastes. Olivesnolv tnake theirdingy a:p.oftwenty-two arches, 18.nowgallripe:doverbut thé prospeçtsfromit merit a gràveTpro~:oedure. This consideration, howevCl:, enters .butlittleintO' the cOJÏtem~platiori~ of a French postillion. 'rhe present bridge is judiciously for.tifi'ed, by asalient angle to rneetthe eurrent. St. Esprit is a picturesqueold town. Here the people of these parts say is a sensible. difference inpoint of c1imate, in regard to generality, l'rom the northern world. Per..llaps the term permanent wouJd be more correct. The cypress is athome here•. Beautiful cultivation, sorne planting, and irrigating con·ducted scientificalJy.Page 27.--TARASCON. This ceremony evidently relates to the" de.struetion of super·stition." We may gratulate mankind accordingly.Same page.-" Le Pont du Garde too."-Tbis wonderful specimen ofthe powers and conception~ of ancient days proves its su blimity in theinadequat~ image it leaves upon the mind. Returning to view it al'tera lapse of years, the imagination find~ that the reality far exceeds theconception it had been able to take of it, and it is viewed ariew ,,:ithequal wonder as at first: also, assuredlY with equal confidence that itwill not faIl on the specta"tor's head, and the~'efore with sentim~ntsz 2

11~ SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.equaHyc-detached from ,tbat source of the sublime which 'terror ishyIearned critics supposed to supply.Among theglaeiers, indeed, thefîthougbt of an avalanche may superinduce snch an idea; butin sncbcase it can hardly add to the gratification which the illlpression of truesublimity (with which terror has Eoconnexion) conveys to tliIe mind~'l'he Pont du Garde is off thedirectroad, and mayheaToidedifthettaV'eUcl'ch~ose it. ,The intervening tract from:'St. Esprit, hyDagnolesand Canaux, is one of very great elevation;the dèseenttC'1o" totheGarde, is, considel'ably beyondcalcuJatioli~of the Rhone at the b.ridge must he very considerably higherthântllé'~Meditenanean$-. The' rapidityofthe'river!s course' su ffiden tly demônstratesthe inclination of its plane:-Wemust stop,)eonjectllr~s'berepfor,.if once indulged; t'hey w6uld lead usfurth@r.,.and:less']ust'i1iahly,out;of ourroad, than t'oview the' Pont da Gaf{le~ ':AtmosphéFic. Decemio.beJ!4. On these elevations,at midnight,>thethermameter42.;blltt'hecold, to sensation, beyond any seale.Page 27........NIsM'R S. Sorne' mOl~e recemt "diS'C'o''Vemesi l1'f!'jf~if'lrl';ttîl1'f~slîi'l~iIt'ec:l;of antiquities have beenmade' here;vide tbemselves, with 1 intl'odücHons ta: the frrends:ôFsciéÎ'we helle, of air;rl1~;curi'ot.1:s"\ViH doweHtopr~,.'c]ass aboye the ordinary cicerone to whom the leadin"g them' ahout deyokes.A publication win point Ol1!t to then~' l'1W.'1fJ of what is to be seen..The engraving of the Maison quarrée anne.x:eêl thereto, by a grossignd...rance in perspective, gi'ves it propo.rtions \"üh whichFt iswholf;y incompatible.CLIMATE.Page 28.-!rloNTPÊLIER.,---"\'Vinter solstice; tbe'sttusets a:ti,. Pont St. Esprit is distantfrom the Mediterrllnean sev.enty miles; aIl aflaf tract Of aHlil;viaJdeposit\on. A correspondence of barAmetriclllll1~asurementl)of~hegujcksilvera~ Lyons .~nd;,?~"~p~~hore orthe sea would give illteresting and conclusive results. A calculation might also ùe 'thereonfouncled of the descents or inclinations of surfaces; by tnê17apidity of the'Zdourses

MONTpiELIER, 'l'RE CLIMATE. 173tw_nty·one minutes past four, at W. S. 'V.i.8. W. 'fhe ithermometer i8at61 in the shade. Thermometers, however, are no criterion for animalsensation. Pinks are now dispensing their odours in the open air. Asevere winter ·kjllsthe olive",:tree;. but not more than two so mischieNOushave(}cçurJ;ed;i\\\~thiin.·· the lllemoryof r~lan. In these, many (not aIl)olive·tree~ii were ~iU~fi~~s~riolJsloss to land.proprieton;.. In February,heJ;e, if nnusiual~.everitydonot. intervene, the almond.tree cornes intoblossom; and this tree is one of the correctest tests of c1imate. FrtlÏL i 8preçàri()us, as theearliest blossoms are usually nipped, with a fall coe'J.liali~~ththe luxuriance of their promise, by unseasonable severity.Rut to continue on the subject of the sea­$onsof this:iJitel'e~tingJrac~,r;th~.. northern. border ofthe Mediterranean,-·Eroduce l1as.jtoohere,J.l~:l"fqr~J.lniatC::]Y'~itselJ,emiesfor aU sc::asops :.as,fqJ;;lllstIitPCe, theformidable.lramontanein1heatmosphere. This is the110Itth,.east~ind,whiçh,concentrating by condensation in the mountains,swe~ps in its course the plain .country,bringing ,vith it, in the wintc::r,coId; in. summer, famine.In this latter season its blasts are intenselyhO~'i(met()orologiçal observations, when duly adverted to, will explainaU this: :N"ature.harmonizes throughout,) shl'ivel up the corn, and leavenpt.halfj..cro;Pito the reaper. The wretched residue too is steely, andyieldsret1lrnat the mill ev.ellless th'an its promise. It i8 a true, suying"" No one knows the inconveniences ofa bouse until lI.e has lived in it."Thesàme l)olds goodas to a country. Rain in summer the parchedtravellet's eyehails as the !lH~nna from heaven. It is far otherwise withthe farm.~f. ~f itJurU during the flowering of the wheat, this never proclllces him halfa crop. TIHlt it should never recover is the mç>re remart\rable,for this is nearly the climatewhere wheat shoüld be indige­I10US; and with us it seems to be an ascertained fact, that this grainwillreproduce its blOSSOUlas often as washed away, during the whole

174 SECOND JOURNEY 'l'HROUGFI FRAN/CE IN 1814.has, providentially, thé power of accommodating ltself to uncougeniàlClimates to serve his uses! Thus Nature exceeds her promises!METEOROLOGICAL.-Cbristmas. Thermometer 57 in the shade, 10 inthe sun, 78 under reflexion. A t'T!amontane brings the quieksHverdoWnto 50; air bright and c1ear, and no sharpness; n.ot el1ougbtocheck pet...spiration. (December 6.)-The mllestral(t;n;j~;i~.the soùth wind) affêctsthe hygrometer (a piece of sponge weighil1 i gâl1 ôtfnce{when ·iC!triedrinquick-lime) very sfrongly. Sncb 1S théhurnidity tbis lyindr bHngs wiithit, that aH the timber-work, evel10f the rnost seasol1èd houses,is forcedto absorb it, to the materia] detriment of the buildings; lvindow-frarn.esespecially suftèr by it.-In respect'ofwHlds, whetebyclinlâteis·~fféétedhere seern.ingly tb a degreeof which our northetn latituHes éàn affotdno idea, the tramoniartehas· been aWêâdy tteàted of lvinl thenbtièe itdê1serves; probably this is the cliauftês of theclassical 'vrilers.of its growth. It is retarded and detêriorated, but byno meatlS destroyed.Thus we aré to infer that this staple of the staff of man's lifeThetîrial,or north-west, is a genîà:l wind; the 'iJent dè (Jrêc, or Lêvaût, ~êttstwind;) is rainy. 'rhe winds, itappears; have th:eirbtdiflàty denoininationsin an idiom totally disanalogous tb whàttheyhiâve with us.To dismiss tbe meteotologrcal subject,-the therrnorneter has been àslo\v aere as 20 of Fahrenheit, which is 6 helow 0 of ReaUmltr.CLIMATE.-January 1.Primroses in full blo\v-asb-tree in blossom-beetles fly-the daisy tribe i8 now in full hlow.'rhenat:uraHst may'hencejudge the state of the naturalherbage(which is here as yet littleadverted 10).-Thissubject, the effect ofseasbn and climate on ,regetation,merits further consiHeratiori being bestO\vedon it.February 26.-Goslins on the black sal1ow, and blossbms 'on theblack.:.thorn. In regard to foliation here, ash would growfreely wèreitduly attended to, althou'gh not to the size of that at Leix-castle in

DIFF~J:l.~1iT KINDS .01' TI~:SR:R, E.TC. 115lrelaod~ T4e witch..elm holds its place, geRerally, in France. Theçlimate does 110t seem congenial to the Chester poplar. T~lC Hun..tingdon willow does weIl, and the white aspen better stil1*.In pointof 1uxuri(mÇ.~, how~ver, of growth and foliage, the Carolina poplarexceeds them aU. The deciduous oali would do weIl. Ils leaf issplall, bQt it ha.s plQch the aJ1pearanÇ.e of being our sirrgle..shoot orLUÇ.pmbe oa.k, whichhas spread out of Devonshire. It keeps its leavcs .eq4ally long.The e\'e]:g{~en'oak is the weed of the wastes here, butvery inlpqrtant, aswilf be. seen in its place, as an articJ~ in manufae..!ur~.Tlle fil' indiÇ.ates deterioration, and the juniperutter debasementtal·tla:PtlgÀ, ..;j\lgee.d, it is hard to decide the palm between them.itself, sinülar in its blQonüng to what wecaU French,p(~~~l ~..:Eurze pr~sentsb4t ~iffering inotb~.rre~pe.Ç.;~§~ Our nat.ive.kindbloQxns in, aut.umn.:MThite~~hopl.is in the, .feI).ce§ : .and ;;a. ;l};lost formidable guard here·Comc.siO,ilid, the,pali\ill'us with its double thorns; one to .repel attack, anothcrt.okeeP c;aptive if forced; one straight, the other .hooked. Propertymay bid defiance to trespass, ifstlch a protector is cultivated as hede~erves. Theqrdinary name theplantgoes by is ,lIpinas. Winter isnot the tiUlcfor attainil)g botanicallights. The acacia might be availedof;fgr; aimil.9-r purpose. This paliurus beal's a blossom like the hop.The wastçs pr(fsé~ntQriar and black..thorn; a formidable plant here;and abounder them lavender, thj'me, sage, and wild carrot and fennelin quantities.-Thefir whichoccupies the soil here is the stone"'pinekind; bad, atfange to say, even to burn, which IS hard to conceive bysuch as have not tried the experiment. This· howevet IS the characterit bears among its neigbb

1{]'6 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.ing in favoured situations magnificently. ,The oak is dassed as cltllleblanc and cll~ne vert: the former ls deciduous. Each has its merit fordomestic pUl~pose, that is, for fuel>A

BOIL, COLLIERIEB. 177ùnder this heâd here is wonderful; mostly calcareous: manneeltuviœ ready to teem once again into life on the sligbtest encourage;..ment.Every bank which presents a southern aspect, even in the depthof winter, iscovered with spiral sheHs.'Vherever a fire is kindled on awaste, the site ofit isforthwithc~)Veredin like manner.'J'he oystertribe (unopened),andotherkindsnot now known toexist, constitllte the, 'principal mass Qr subsoiI. Awhale's bone was found in sinking a weIlin the town.Bones of quadrupeds, whioh have undergone the processof the alluvial convulsion, present themselves, protruding to the mostcUrsory eye.Here is sorne pure sand, and in it bedded calcareous lamilflttffifoundto::côntain marineeœuviœ,often in manyalternate strata,marking the wash of waters, the action and re~action. '-fhis sand, too,bas in its pJ.'Ocess pl~oduced .··iwll",stone in·· smaIl quantity. Breocia isseen in the neighbourhood, and. vast masses of calcareous rock.rfh~red~arbleused.nereis of the greatestbeauty, boasting a richer tingethanporphyry, and equally deep; often in the entire piece, withouttheslightest admixtnre of other colour.day, yellow andhlué.:Marl appears; a180 poUer'sThe collieries of this part of the world are at Alais, in the mountains,. a tractofth'emostimportamt, interest. The coals do not contain muchsulphur, hUTn slowly, apcl cast off a goodcinderwhich burns again, apda little white,ashes.They are'Veryshiningwhen broken, ~nd havenotmnch bitumen.-···Quicksilver lla8 been found in the earth by sinking ahole in a garden, and in the streets of the town alter rain. We mustnot, ho,vevet, forgetthat somethingof the samekind has heen di8COveredto h~ve pre~ented,itselfe1sewherefrom a cause that would not beexpected.C~rdinalFleury worked a gold~mineworld, but it did not l'equite the cost.VOL. II.2Aon. his estate in this part of theHis observation was, that,

178 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.though he was a loser, there 'Vas the more of the precious mefal inFrance' A disinterested statesman !-rrhe goldwas in threads or fibres.Statistical Observations.-Currency-money here has depreciated, in thecourse ofthe last thirty years, a full third*. This is the main influencewhich cornes home to each individuà'l in the shape of œconomics; forwhat is statistic matter but œconomics in the aggregate? Sncb personswhose fortunes areafioat may rise with the tide; but those who are atmoorings, if they cannot eut and l'un for it, will soonfind themselvesunable to keep their heads above water. Inotherbountriêsthisvdepreci~ation of the currency has been duly aecountedfor ; but its existence bêrellas a tendeney to subvert mucb ofthis hitherto apparently sound logic.Priees bave risen bere, wbile produce rots, and population is exbausted !Here is neithertime nor place to pursuean investigation ofsncb weightymatter. Coin is the circulating medium. It is by'convention onJy tbatthe metals have value, and that basbeen founded on the eonveniehcethey present; and tbis is aIl tbeir intrinsic value. Suppose, for instance,the plague found its way into a commercial nation :wbat wouldthenbecome of+paper curreney, when a one-pound note could not!be tr~nsferredwithouf undergoing fumigation? "Vhat a liberal extension ofcredit would then supervene !-But to keep to the point: Here is no\vant of gold in France; but in pecuniary transactions silver is thedrug. It is, however, adequate for aH ordinary purposes. The free.appearance, or preserved incog. of the gold eoin,is the criterion of thepolitieal pulse. This gives to that mctal an extraneous value. Convenieneeis an intrinsie advantage in the circulating medium, and this i8no way so completely obtained as by a paper ellrreney. Herein Franéeis, to lts serious detriment, totaHy deficient. Thus, in the pal't:sremote., Handicraft wages have about doubled since the revolution.

CURRRNOY, TRADE, 0llLTIVATION. 179fron;lthe capital, an arder on Paris is a clrug. It is only ta an ardertram Paris that payment will be made. In c,ase of an inquiry at aluerchant's counting-house, the desœuvré'd e1erk civilly informs-" Lepapier d'ici n'a pas de cours à présent sur Paris-vos fonds sont à Paris;c'est le m~m.ecasavec npus." ThlJs, what in a commercial country isonly discount, h~l'e in France is utter stagnation. The collectors ofthe revenue* have. it in their power to oblige, but are debarred makingby it. An export trade would remecly aU this, àhd as such it is sighedfor. Thus at this moment, while Îll England the legislature is directillgitsex;ertlôns to keep up. the price of the staff of life, its regulationshere impÜ'se:ave.tQt(ln. exportation in order to keep it clown, fur the he.nefit .of the community., while.that. very community is exerting its ingenuity(the. landprop.detÜ'rs a.tle.ast) ta .. cvade the operation of theIawt, for the sweets of exportation. 'rhe controversy between growerand consumer is.irreconcileable. Yet one commu'ne here, that of Frontignan,made thisyear (1814) two millions of livres by their wines.Lately, however, wine bore no price; in consequence whereof theygrubbed up their vineyards to sow corn; but nOW that, from hope ofexportation, they are replanting their vineyards, corn rises.In the WaYthey areproceedihg they must shortly be entirely dependent upon else-.where for Jood ; but the life of these regions is in tracle, as an that i5said is intended ta show, and as yet, how it languishes !_..-...,.....-----------------------------r~i

180 SECOND JOVRNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.The cominerce'* of France is founded on agriculture, that of EnglandOn capital.Handicraft wages here in France are high, and executionhas by no means kept up in proportion.ThiswiIloperate against theirmanufactures in the compétition market. On such subjects as t~his thetraveller should tread with diffidence; but it by no m@an~ foUows thathe is to renounce them.One of an observing turn will ieasily gain tolerabIycorrect ideas of W'hat is to be shown and seen; it is by no meansthe same with what is to he told and learned ~·it is hard to get, andstill harder often to believe with safety.'--Manuallaboftr;.

CHANGE IN MANNERS AND SENTIMENTS. 131;~ofagx:îçulturists: and the change in national manners is become too obviousnot to strike every one. Hence the grave concentrated demeanourso. total1y opposite to the gay frivolity of thirty years pastoHencethflt wish for .peace so anxiously expressed by every man who possessesten acrel). oflanclin fee simple, as we should term it.-But, without digressingonthe.subjeot, let the ûll~geof Languedoc speak for itself.Corn, wine, and oil, are the s~aples of the agriculture ofthese districts.Live.stock* is but ancillary; and in regard to the mulberry and thedelicate insect it maintains 1~,although the gains are considerable andalLclear,jt hardly demands a place in the general vjew.It may ap"papr~.d~~ical,:tbat ~vhat is so important.in statistics should he uU'­n.oticefthle in such an investigation as this; but it is not the less sO•. AfOW of trees t the whole.busiJ.wsscl~~medwhereby consists merely in thepluCking the leapyes. off,with the minute.et cetcras of process, may hediscussed .. apart, for they no way connect with agriculture. The silkcultivation.hasbeen on thedecline in. this part of the wodd, from theextreme delicacy of the insect ;. experience convincing that the mountainoustracts, as for instance Alais, where aspect can he selected, an..swers best for the purpose.In pursuitof information on this most interesting ohject,.agricultur~as.eries of quest,ions was addressed in three ditferent directions,each... Live Stock.-'-The markets in the south here a.t'e supplied..at about the t"ollowing rates:An ()x nt for the butcher, (in English mo~ey). - éB. 13 6 8A fat calf 2 18 4A fat sheep 1 13 4Ahog ] 15 0The sheep vary conl5iderably in Bize; according to the breeds•. Here is seen a taU, large-honed,J()o$e-~ade race,as weIl as its opposite in aIl these rtlspects. These large sheep carry long coarsafleeces.t The sea air is disadvantageous to thesilk~worm. The coconsproduced in a bad sèasou arecoarse, andnot manufacturable.&4

182 SECOND JOURNEY THRüUGH FRANCE IN 1814.list to a persan in a different class of life, each being fully competentto decide, but without the slightest communication between themselveson the subject. They most liberally undertook the task ; and the answershave been, as rnight be expected, plain and calldid, and withoutany substantial difference among them.The series of these questions was, First, as ta white crops ;",--sec9ndly.farming, cattle, stock, and forage ;-thirdIy, vineyards ;-fourthly, labour;-fifthly,agricultural establishment (implements) ;-si.xthly, purchaseofland.-These questions condense

CROPS ON DlFFERENT SOILS, ETe. 183nuril'l!2:too must precede the sowing; and four or five mowings in theseason are reckoned a good crop.Sainfoin yields hut one or two cut..tings, requires no manure,and maintains its place three or four years.Clover or trefoil IS only fit for moist ground. It.yields two or three c~t..tings.--After clearing the ground of these green crops, it may he soW'ntllree successive years withwhite crops, and yield a good return *.Commonly frorn half a septier' to three..fourths of one, or from fifty toseventy-fivy pounds of seed, is allowed to à septarée of land, in seed.Good land requîres proportiQnably less, and that of inferior qualitymore.The return iu common wheat is from eight to fifteen for oue;of/fine wheat, caUed heretouzelle, from five to twelve for one.Sornearid spots, orthose whichhave not been well manured, or whichhavesuffered hy '\'Veather, willnot yield more than two or three for one~Rye isa very uncertaincrop in this climate, either too dry or too wetfor it.Oats succeed generally, and yield an ampIe crop t. 'fllfee orfour ploughings are requisite to till a field well: one plough will turntwo septarées in a day.live to six francs.The day's labour of it may he rated at from'fhus the tillage of a septœrée for the year costs from.ten to twelve francs. But to thi8is to be added .. the cost of clodding,and weeding, which, however, is hut a trifie; and aIl together may he'coverèd hy the t:weJve francs.* Three crops of wllite producc are taken hE-re sometimes after manuring, or a summer fallow•.Berc the corn produced is not.adequate to the. interior consumption, and the marketis suppliedfrom a distance.t Sorne calcuHüe the rctums in grain here at ten Jor one. The)' ohject here to dipping theploughinto the new earth, complaining of an açid in it; probably no other thall the vitriolic: )'etthe soil is calcareous. The peach-tree dies at about twellty years of age, from the same reasonapparently•. They use platre asa manure, dustedôh lightly before raine 'Hurnet is considerablyQultivated in France," but nother~,."

'184 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.The annuaI produce of a sep/arée of lucerne isfrom thirty to forry(juintals (of a hundred pounds). In sainfoin the septaréeyieIdsfifteen tot\,twenty; in vetches, fifteen to thirty'. The value of these articles varies,according to circumstances, from ,two to four francs the quintal.B. answers. The 1zectar makes aboutsevenseptaréesof thiscountry.In ordinary caIcuIation it is supposed that ,a septaréè of tillage grounâshould yieId about FIVE septiers ofwheat.H it bea tenant who occupiesJand,he cannot sow it with whitecrops .twoyearsiin immedi,atesuccession; he must Ieave it one en jachèr.e.Butifit be theprprietor,he may deriveaprofitfrorn it every'yearby the useoftheiartificialgrasses, some whereof last five or six years in the ground ;afterwllich wheat*, and the coarser grains subsequently, may be cultivatedfor severa] years.A $eptal'ée of sainfoin iS.worth,in'an'ordinary year,thirty-six francs; of lucerne, eighty francs.fourteen francs a septiert.Wheat iSiwortllthirteemorManure lbeing the souI of agriculture, too much pains ca:nnotbeem~ployed to procu,re it; but those lands which are adaptedtogreen€ropsare the ones whichcan easiestdispensewith it by the procedureunderwhich they are placed:but a manuringeveryfive orsix yearsissuffi..nient to keep land in due heart.It is weILknown that;limet is an im'!"provement to land; but it is costly to use here fOl' thatpurpose.If* The best flour in France is produced about Toulouse and Montauban. The œconomical millsystem here must enable them to undersell in this article.t The household loaf is sold at one penny farthing.per pound ourmeasure. Rest bread, the loafsomewhat short of two pounds (weighing thirty ounces) for two-pence-halfpenny.t They hum the lime in the rudest mannel'. The material, which presents itself universa!ly, isquarried ; laid by the pit in a heap, with wood fuel, and' set fire to J They do not'go to' thetrouble of constructing kilns. They arenot utterly ignorant on the subject: however, they are notyet aware of the improved principle of the inverted cone. What t~ey most exceI in is their drain.,age, which isboJd, costly, and judicious.

C,ULTIVÂTION OP LÂNDS,~ cnops, ETC. 1'85atenalltseU htswheat under twelve francs the septier, his rye unders.even, his oats under four, he cannot pay his rent out of his ground.A yoke of oxen will plough a septaree ofland and· a half in a day~It is five days' labour of one man to break up a septarée of groundt'hat has been already cultivated; but where this has not been the case,thelabour wiU clepend upon whatever is the natural quality of the soil.Four ploughings are necessary fora sowing. A septarée of grain isreaped for three francs. Men~s harvest labour is usuaUy thirty sousa...day.C•. answers.-Return of tillage or wheat crops may be rated in land~f0the lowestqu~lityattllree, in that of middJing quality at five, andin ·the best land at nincand even ten for one. Aftera wheat cropa fallow must ensue. Land of the first quality may, however, tha.tyear receive a crop of vetchesor millet to eut green. l\'lillet "8ells0'atseven francs., The value of a 'crop of millet is about equal to thatacrop of wheat.Lands are genera1Jy let,wlienever they are let, in one of these ways,namely-half profits; the division to ta:ke place when they have beeumarketed, or at an agreed-on priee for the bTround, the proprietor alwayspaying the taxes. Theeost of tillage of a septarée of corn for the yearis twelve francs fOf the three ploughings.-He observes elsewhere:Three ploughings at the above rate, or by hand and hoe, (the instrumentis a powerful two-pronged fork bent, called bigarre,) six men forthe first going over, three for the second, and two for the third-theseptar.é'C, in one day, undâstood. It is necessary to manure the grouoo:every three years at the rate of about twenty-nine francs the septarée.'l'he (airs of Franoe, on Iookillg ovêr the lists,are very few comparathre~yfor so large a country. In regard to meat-market, gTass-veal issold hereat Christmas, also lamb. Mutton, good; beef~ not so. GoodVOl. II.2 B

100 SECOND JOURNEY']}HROU6·H FRANCE IN 1814.beef is rareI)' kiHed;e that sent inton~arket Is usuall;r cast plough.(;attle.To the qllerie$upOQ qor$e7'.keeping, feeding~hç,ep,.ç.attle, dmft,~c.r'\. answer$.-Owing to the 1'leat9fthecliJ11~te, Jlatu~lq~rdl)' known here, e~cept with the ~idof .irl1~g~t~o.Q.g.r~sses;areThus m.l;\:nag~~,they maY last fift)' Ye~rs .01' mOl'e. rIh~Y'yield ·hvp ~r thl'

SBEBP, ETC. 187nJ.,~••t~ney are fat ~,as tnecost of the keepingto maintain tnem sois.extremely heavy. The ewes of this country rarely twin; but a breedisintroduced fromBarbary which lambs twice in the yeart: Theborse and mule here aremaintained on fodder and oats; tne ox onstraw .'audàe;8'f);O/tç.nreS,; .and,·· sorne coarse articles of food, during winter:;:lit otnerSeas:olls. he.gr~zes. Dairy cows arekept on green fOdder untîlthe time theycan be put on the .meadow$: theyare tended in thewoods, banks, road-sides, &c. The price ef ahor8e 'tOi mount a gentlemanis about four hundred francs. The maintenance of one variesaccordiJ!g to the pricésof artiéles, but may he ra~ed at three hundtedand fiftyftanc:S'cpet,â1~nu»J.C~ answers.~Afatsbeepweighs fromsixty to ninety IlbundS' and oneyiêlds' four pounds of wo()h To.:keep:Mf'lthenlfat'; during :summer,theya!tiésent tothe fi:iountains~ Thé'ewBS: tardy twin;i but they frequentlylatnb twice ayeart. When thè :flocks range during the winter, a~.'~ l\iutton is /lol

1;88 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.agreed-on priee is paid to the local proprietor. By lucerne, if'''givengreen,cattJe are apt to àe ho,ren and kiJJed. A horseis keptfdr aboutfour hundred-and-fifty francs a-year, on hay and oats; the formerattherate of three francs thé quintal, and oats at thatof six francs the septier.This is meantof a saddie-horse; the draught kind IS kept for four hu'1'l~dred francs a-year : a mule for three hundred janox for ahundred~and':'fifty. A pair of oxen, young and strong, costs from four tosÏx hundredfrancs. They last 'at labour from five to six years jafterwhieh they aresoId off fat >'If. A mule costs from five·hundredto twehrit hunêlredfranes ~a horse for draught, from hvo hundred to six hundred. A horsefofa master to ride costs much· the same, unless hechoose to go to ex",pense to gratify his fancy t. An ox kept in the field costs fFOro one ht1n~dred to two hundred francs a-year ;mamtenanœaccordi.ng tocirctltn"',stances and situation. Horses and mules cost mere~ If wel1kept, theirannual cost may àe rated aJt about three hundred francs a.-yea" j andtheir consumptionin qualltity of forage and straw at about ahundredquintals, l\tlontpelier weight. Much less"however, of this IastwilLsuffice when they get oats.Query: Vineyards ?-Their management, produce, value, &c. ?A. answers.-The vineyard is the principal produceof the province ofLanguedoc, particularJy the maritime parts. The wines, red and white,some of which are much esteemed, are a most considerable Qàject of" Twelve plough oxen soId for, or were valued at, 4l. lOs. each; three mules at about six guineaseach; three h()rses at about three guineas each. The dairy cows are usually of the weightof about four hundred: they cost fifty crowns, and are brought from La Caune, a distance of nftyleagues, to Montpelier. Dairy cattle are kept in the house: the process is weIl undet'stood.t This indicates the low state of the breed of this vaIuable animaI here. Improvement will mostmaterially influence diversity or enhancements of value. As t() animaI stock, a good pig, taIl, butof. the bracketed breed, is brought in large draves to be slaughtered before e,hristmas~ TneY'arereared by the mountain farmers.

exp

1 1 90 SECOND JOURNEY THHOl)'GH FRANCE IN HH4.coverod by the sale of the pressed grape (the man;)i; tha't of

VINT:AGE. 191vineyard~>yieldwine.()fthe strongestquality, but spft soilsg;ife,u,lOst pmduce >Ïf.fJ,llery. Labour?A. answers..,..-Every property. hereanyway considerable has an overseer,.or>.s~.eward';AcalledlJc fivei..of/rye,. al'e allmved him,and each pel'sonunder his orders, anJ!lually. Al~o six septiel'$. ,of thismeslin for his wife,called la. ma!jjre; and half a m.uid of (good) red wine for each.0r?f.y~~q t~il';ss~ll~ for fo~1' sQUS, in th.e town. An Euglish acre of these will produee,e hundl'ed and twenty, worth twenty shillings; part of which profit may be placed inOn the (frorn.·i).gd.iti9pal i9'{~rlPatjon) '"7.f'he process is this.: The grapes are pulled,andweIl cleared off the stalks; which last, iflèft in the puIp, give it a taste of roughness or asperity. Theyal'e

:t9~ SECOND JOURNEY 'fHR:OUGH FRANCE IN 1814.Sorne proprietors give up a part of the mare of their grapes to makepiquette (sharp weak wine) for the people; but as this marc, or residue"sells very weIl for the verdigris manufacture, it is generally preferredto give an equiva1ent of one third of a muid of pressed wine; whichmakes for each person five ..sixths of a muid oftheother. The payre,and each man a180, receives a carte of oil, the mayre halfacarte,. anda half of a carte is also allowed to light thè stable.Each person alsoreceives twenty..five pounds of salt annually. .. The' y.early wages giventhe payre are two hundred or three Imndred f.cancs,audeach yeE;l.rlylabourer has from fifty to sixtY francs wages. This article of wages ofrustic servants varies according to their usefulness or capacity, amountingto a hundred and fifty and even to three hundred francs a-year.They have the privilege of rearing fowls., sQmetimes rabbits,. pften..pi...geons.In such cases the master finds the first or breeding stock, a~dis reimhursed. "\tVhere theseanimals are Dot aUoweçl, tlle propdetorgives hisservants an e

EXPl11NSRS OPLABQUR, ETC. 193salt. He lS aUowed a garden, and his wife rears fowls. He is also allowedta smv a .septie1· ofpeaumellc;.e.answers.-The yearly expcnse of a day-labourer is ahout eightbùndred ffancs.Query?--Prices/~fplough, cart, harness, for oxen, harses, and mules-with aU that relatesto this hranch.of rustie management?A. answers.-Ploughs vary in priee according to their forms. Thepriee of an ox cart is from two hundred ta two hundred and fifty francs:that ofa three-ol' four-horse or mule cart is from three hundred tothreebundl'ed and fi~iy fralles.An ox cart weighs (empty) from fifteentEi>six+teenquintals:theborse eartfrom twenty ta twenty-four quintals.E. answers.--Oxharnessconsistsin a yoke and two straps to the horns:theyoke costs nine francs,rthe straps twelve. (Thus accoutred, the pair,&n.d the ploùgh hung upon one of their horns *, tbey sally out a-field.Here-·optat ephippi~ bos--invain.) Theploughready ta work is rated .ateighteen francs. A cart for four horses costs, when fully equipped, fivehundred francs..' Cart hm'uess for four costs two huudred francs. A four­'mule cart will convey ninety quintals.C. answers.-A wheel-plough costs sixtY francs; the harness seven:ffâbCS. Afour-hofse cart coststwo hùndred francs. A cart numbered Beal'ries twenty quiptals for each borset; a common cart carrîêsthirtyquintals, with fOUf harses. Acommonplough weighs . about sixtYpQul1ds~*" ft has boon mentioned" the ploughgoes out to the tie1d,hung on t~e ox's h()rns: very~xceJle~twork is $een performed by the instrument, cut out ofthestump of a tree; one branch left for a haudle,ànd the butt forsock andshare;withouthavillg aidof carpenter orsmith,called in to its fabrica­;tion.t Thewheelof the present vehiele is ten feet high. The high wheel basbeenin use about twelvey.ears .. On their adoption they bore the name "à lal$-fpr~b1'ouk:"theirsuperiorutility 1190ubrougl:1tVOL. Ir.2 c

194 SECOND JOURNEY THItOUGH FRt\NCE IN 1814.Quérg-Purchase ofland ~ ?C.answers.-By the hectare Land ofthe fir8t quali:ty may be p'urphased,at from th1'ee thousand to four thousand franes; of the second quality,from two thousand to two thousand nine hundred; t'bat of the'thirdquality at six hundred. Of surface only fit for planting of wood, a septaréemay be'purchased for ten francs; but aseptarée ofmeado'\V-gro~ndis as liÎgh as five hundred.'l'hus concludes what was obtained by iriquiryuponthesubject.'Vhat fol1ows is the result of observation ând;notitlg.lnthefiFst'p~ace,Hie value of land, as at presênt,is unqucstionably' very highrIl. Francé,considering aIl thé èircumstaIlcesof this country. These eilicnmstances'Ît is Unnecessary he1'e to pa1'ticula1'ize; but that such a result shouldtake place is obviously the consequence. In tl1c first place, the'utter'destitution of commerce imposes a necessityof vesting aHtbccapitalthe1'e is, in land. The instabi:lity of appearancés œnïes in's6me degl+eeto this effeet. A man preserves a better chancc\vith 1118 landed thanwith his'hoarded propérty. lIewiH also 'prefel' hlIld" ulldera;U "FS"C;':I!!S"advantages, to fnucIs. The prevalent opinion ls,'tllat\y'ben J?rance bethelIl·into 'uni:versal adoptioR. Instead of a drag~chain, pressure i8 used t()checkthe run do''Ilnhill, and effectively.* Sale ifpruperty.-Nine hundred-and-twenty acres (a hundred rtuJt1'es,ot the square ~f teneaéh), ,vl\tich are nine selllarées, or thl1eeacres" estimated at annual valuc; tw() h'LIildred and thirty:,sixj"anes (101. lOs.) pe', rmnUrtl, and consisting, in different proportions, as follows :-namely, threehundred acres of vineyard, three hundred ditto of meadow and open field, twelve ditto hfmulbèt~yplantation, twelve ditto of olive, three hundred ditto of mixed vine, meadow, and corn field, withdecayed building on it, i8 /laId under decree of the eeurts, €Ir rather offered for sale, for two thou8andfrancs (1001;). The postponements are \'eiteraterl ITom want ofsufficient hidding; andhy thepr0­cess it looks as if most woufd fall intothe hands of the law, of whatever it was ult;mately to fetela.The process of decree and sale, for recovery of debt, is very ready and facile to a certain pointhere :bUt the sweets of postponement are weIl understood. Scc the public notices under head Qf," Pént~par exprcl'fn'fCftionforcée dq p'f'()prf~lés. imTlJ.obilières."

111GB PRIC:E OF LANDS. 195•comes a'settled country, the priee of lands ,vill faU below what theyare.!fbbut, St. Simphorien, a purehase of eleven thousand francs hroughtin five hundred and fifty livresa-year.Some assure. us that judieioqspurcl)ases, with due improvements, would, in some years' time, yieldli 'l'éturn of.tetl\p~rcent.; ;;lnd 150 they ought, to eompensate. Still,hôwéver, thatland shouhl in ,Brance bear a priee above its rela.tivevalue (a thing nllieh more easy togain an ide,aupon thanjts in,trinsic

196 SECOND JOURNEY THROVaffi FRANCE IN 1814.present one, from the face of nature.AH is totaHJ changed; 80 COlrîplete1y,that the contrast strengthens the impression of both.Franceis fifty-fold the country sile was in 1784 (meaning within the samelimits), computing her p~rmanent internaI improvements, theapp,o...priationof her surface, and her moral and physical energies. rrhespj,ritof improvement, where it prevails as here, ,has not, assuredly,pecu'"niary capital to aid it: but it has the firmestof càpitals, the sweat ofthe b:row'!-that which the illustrious Lockefounds his basis ofnaturalproperty on. Still, to .view the activity of the spiritofrustlêiinprov6­ment, it is a puzzle ho\v the fund absolutelynecessary to keep the wheelsof the machine greasedis found!Building, not wretched hO"els,but substantiaJ stone habitations ; terracing with stone waUs, wherethaie is as much perpendicular as horizontal surfaêe;picking>andtilling the new·vine"groùnds for years without refurn!'HowaUthisis done in a country not abounding withpecuniàry capitahand with nonutIet for their prod uce, is teally inexplicable; 'a1'ld unquestionably:anJl",vhere' eIse would beutterlyimpossible. Butsuchis thesens high, and most of that which is bought mustrequire greut labot},.and expense, ,vith the aid of time, to bring lit to profit.A~cording to information andèalculation, the measurelnent ,of anEnglish aère of meadow herè, În France, selIs for, of our l1loney, 62:t.108.But by the foregoing calculation, taking thé hectar at 'se~en septarées,and a septarée as one third of an English aere~land ofthefirst e1asj:;,sens almost atSOl. our acre, and of the second or mediumx quaIity ut601. Then, how is this repaid? A tenantry sucft ,as we knoWr it hasno existence in France.The whole speculation in land, which in factcomprises public speculation altogether, is to the purch~se,~Q;quotmerely the occupation of land; toreaIize, and not to tutu the'ÎIllIllc-•

lHW TENANTS IN FRANCE AT PRESENT. 197di~ttlprpfit, wbich i$'i ~s has heen ~lr~aQyoh.ser\Ted~ utterly out of theq~estion. TeI).ants ar~ mentioned, hutit is hy no ll:l€ans a system j itisonly hcreand thcre tha~ snch a thing exists. The agricultural process,and the circumstances of people in l'ustic life, \}tterly debar it.lf atenaI).totf~l;}ay~arly rent, ÇlS witb us, he m,ust do it expecting toellgrossnclarly allprofit~.. Ontheçontrary, in the ordinary way, aftel'c\lltivation, harvesting, awaiting the period of marketil1g,coI).sigç.ingit.to the fa.ctor,Çlnd receiving the money,-when the division of the11roitscomes tolJemade, what an unsaitisfactory procedure must thisbelIt ÎsÎn fact incu.mbent on the land-proprietor to hold his landhhusclf;but where he CÇlU atford it, as bere divided with the assistance~f a steward, he JeelseI).cou'l'agement toc expend lI). üllprovement; hecau awa,it tbe day fo1's&le. Tbe '1'es.plt .. Qf this ~s the. simplification ofl&nspeclllatin, will arise, and land-proprietors, for theirown.ease,. will he ready tocompol1nd with them. But time is neçessaryf(Jr this. In the interim, the thing is just as weIl for the countryÎ;)tjow 1s. E\'ery land-'proprietor, he his pursuits what they may,feels he is a loser if he does Dot reside upon his property ; and aIthoughfrom the bOlil1t;iesofnwtlne, and afRiclions of politics, produce drops,and rots aIl around lüm, still, there, he can live. The ouly two interestsDOW throughout l-;"rance, ovel' the country, are the proprietor and thelabourer~Under wh.ich cirçl1msÜmce, the latter situ~ltion may weU hewhat it is, that of a prince compared tohis fel1ow-labourers throughoutE1,1rope ; ..worthSOl. isteflin,ga:yea~, wnere necessaries, comforts, andeven luxuries, are -so cheap.Th.eland-proprietor, as already observed,

198 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH F.RANCE IN 1814.r.ays taxes. Tht"se are more now than unàerthe()ldregi?ne:; but lightetin proportion ta the ability of the people ofthe pte,sentdâyto paythern.In[aet, they are sa light.that people hardlyknow in whât proportion thcypay. The tax i5 on all property ad valorem, and considetedvery unequaHyimposed. This results in one respect from lvhatit is an incitetnentto,improvement. The more property is bettered, tHe Jightctis the fax,whieh rcrnains as befbre. 'l'he Jand-propriCtorat anyrate settIes hisaifair easi]y with his goV'c:rnment. In this Ile pays his cllurch esta:..blishment. In the sale of his produce he pays; unelert1lèJ dëifîot}'1ÎrtaHon,of octrois *', his local chargés; and he has no làlldJord tolay IIp f()t~SA situflted,he may wen irnprove. The agriculture ofthese meridionaldistricts is of an improving kind, too. The olive will thriveamongrocks; the vine in a graveJ-quarry; and much ,of the faccot nâtûtehere, now sa blooming, wàs originally thus constitttted.Manytnoûsandsof acres of thebest vineyard-land here,areconstituted offedgrave1, as nearly pure ru bb1eas any quarry hy a highwa.y side inMiddlesex. l\1any acres are as purely such gravelselves. 'Vith due tillage to kecp the landcJeall, â hândfulofdun~()r:li

lll;~U;~ ;l.il~dto the;foot of each :vine plant will produce an ample return,ahilof the bestqua.lity.'Vhilst thus emp!oyed, the process of stoninggoeson ~ ; and by the period the number of years ,vhen the vine stocki~t1xha.u~ted, tbe land is clear enough for the plough.Thus the firstl'ecl411J.;.~.ti9n i~a]l; p,;p,q, in fact,.. the vine is the grandimprover here;to wh.ichcornjsbutfli;t1lciHary, ~s liv~stoek is to corn. T.he average ofthe.cofn-tillage9u gopd .land, qy the measurement of the English acre,filay betaken· at 6/. sterling pel' .anmun for the gross profits, supposingthe.su,cc~ssiontobe wheat, oats~ and lucerne, or sainfoin and no faUow.Fromthi~ ol1eitllirq lllay justly he deducted, on aecounts theJarmer winvery easily uudel'stan.d without having them pointed out to him; andthere maythen, remajp;tothp French proprietor here, in the meridionaltracts, a profitat the ra~e,;()f 4t.s~erlcing, according to the English acre,wl1ich'Yillaccouut;for laIl;q of ;t\è%J,.aluation finding purehasers.D'l;ucehfoJ;Jh.il:l branch of agr!CU/,tll'Çe.But to.revert.to th.e viJ~~yard.SoThe gross profit of the vineyard mayhe rated to the R!'oprietor at 151. sterling pet' English acre, taking amuid to the $eptarée, and 51. for the priee of the muid.be deduetcd the interest of money first sunk,1"rom this is toeostly storage, andsale. Still it may h.e cornputed at lOI~. pel' acre. This ispl'oba.1:>ly in ... eaeh case taking profit at its maxim ume But it is muchotherwisewitLliexp~ndi ..tlJre. il'he ~anguedocia? a&rjellltu~i3tjust)y$3YS manure (fumier) is the soulof bis business; but he omits a greatdeul of wha! Ile might do in this way, and pays most enormous]y forwhat he doest.\Vith.the"villC .every thing depends on it; an.d it is* Used to huild walls, or, in. the vicinity of hig}) roads, laid by theil' sicles by contract and mea-&urernerlt~ re.aily anll.a.t hand torepair th~~~ .The ham~ller used to break these stOlfes, on. the roads, .hasa spring ha9dl~, Wl!Jchgives it ~?çcep an~ a boy does. the work of a man.t Agricultural investigation i5 b~coming active hel'e. It ha" a:scertaiued two hUl1dred different

gOO SECOND JOURNEY THROUGHFRANCE IN 1814.·one of the inexplicables ofthis country,whel'etheycan p08siblylind. anthe 'manure they·employ, with t!heir slendermeans oFprovldihgit. Livestock, it is seen, i5 not to be lakeninto i accountnere. ffhe country 18traversed byBocks during thewinter, and dairies ~are insomedegreeattended to, but neither claimany place in uccounts. 'l'he oH!ve,indee~,18 an important article, and'requiresa placefuHy toitself, altbouglr j;tI]as been hitherto excluded,as it sèemsto be a matter of ju!stifiabledoubt how farit can hold a p)aceunder theheadofagricultuFalprofits:but be this as it ma}', that it i5 of thenrst COFlsequence'ia statiistiics,.frol'llthe money it brings intothe country, adroits Df no dell1Ur, and assu·chit will ibe now proceeded to.The OLIvE.-Here are three or four different kinds of olives. rrhistreebears but once in two years. In the bearing year,'anolive4reewillyield from one to two andeven thl.hundred weight; towlt1ich weightthe oil expresscd bears the proportion of one eighth.The ordinary rneasurei5 a ql~artain, or twenty-two pounds (SOtlle say twenty--one). Sixhundred trees in one plantation yielded, this year, on JIn average,'iftecnpounds of fruit pertree,taking in the number, young plants put dO'''hto replace decay, and the bearers of the former yeal"s deficÎ'ency: sothat this may be considered an average valuation. The foregoingitnakesnine thousand pounds weight: but another plaI1tation yielded bùtfivet'hausand pounds, of an equal number of trees.A good tree, ho'Wever,", ~n yield three quartains, or sixty-three pounds. 'llhe qum'tain malteski!}.ds of potatoes (tbat root formerly so despised), in the §ihort ti.roe it. has yettaken IIp thesubject. Of these one hundred appear distinct species, and thirty are recommended for superiormerit.* The best dairy cows come fromthe district of La Caune. They séll veryhigh: A cowthathasnewly calved fetches From two hundred.and-{orty tofwo hundred-and~1iftyrralÎcs, 'theyyield,per day, in Sllmmer, seven, eight, or nine pots of milk :-theJ,0i cJf eighty cubic Închesl fivei·nchesby fourdimensions.;

PRÇ>CESS Of' PRESSING OLIVES. 201pots,each pot being four b.'iquet,';; but it is hard ta guard againstconfusion in measures here, and this baftles inquiry; the common pot isout tluee triquets. But, in short, the quar'tain of eight pots sells on thespot for twenty-two francs. An olive tree's annual value is probablyabottfeightshillingsofoul" Hloney. The olive is planted out at five yearsof age, and iofive years morewHl begin to yield produce. This, how:­ever, hasheen deoied. 13efo1'e Christmas (1Jecember 20th) oli,;es are,sent to the mill,to be pressed.--Process: They are first graund under aperpendiGular wheel, as bark i8 done, which 1'educes them ta a pulp,breakü'lgthe stones. J~lthis pulp the oi1y qua1ity now becomes obviousfor the firs~.tirne,frhitherto the olive is but an acrid bitter (that eatenat desserts ls a different species from the one sent .10 tlle mill). Thispulpis 1aidio a-.vat.; hencep,ut ioto rush baskets, like .those io whichngsiares,cllt .10 England. These. are piled perpendicularlyunder a doublepress,. ~n twocO'lumns;

~o~ SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.of the oil, eompared to the jerk of thehip, the ancie,nt seat of effort..Suell was the procedure of primitive days. The oil fioats in the vat atthe top, and is skimmed off. The lightest is the best. The pressedsu bstance feeds fowls and pigs welleA qum-tain of oil, twellty-two pounds weight, is the prodlllceof t\\''OllUndred weight of olives, the growth of fourteen trees. Reckoll a hUll.'-.-dred and twelve trees to" an English acre, supposing them to standthirty feet apart, more or less, eight quartains, at twenty-two francs theqZtartail'b, yield a return of about seven pounds sterling the Englishacre.A good olive tree will produce three hundred pounds reeight onits heariogyears.detrimental to it fi;:.Âssured.-If a tree bear two successive years, it is veryCorn, vines, &c. are planted in the intervals of the olives, but u,p.­parently to liUle avail. The olive requires to have the earthfrequeFlt}y.stirred about it; and this must he done byhâl"~d, andwÏith the greatestnicety.It requires,too, the very best of manure; sllch, for instance,as old rags. On this subject,of manure, they :Let go waste,.here"m;ueiof the very best, namely soap wash; used so' abundantly oowim:~eselK< This tree thrives onIy within twénty-five leagues of the sea. It is a delieate plant,hut, notwithstanding,can sUEPort a very considerable degree of cold without its foliage being injured (a~for instance in the winter of 1814, when the ice,was three inches thick); l!tut ifsnow settles, oricicles fix on the twigs, they wither, and the tree frequently dies to the very roots. In that caseit iseut clown to ahout six inches below the surf;1Ce ofthe ground; and suchparts of tJle roots as h!+v~retainecl any life send up fresh shoots to renew the tree; and a stock of them is further thus furnishedfor reproduction, and to plant elsewhere. But this procedure is very slow; and those whomake olive plantations do it more for their children than. for themselves. The ground around tll~tree mustbe carefully tilled and kept clean. It> ought to be hoed thr.ee times a-year,. the earthopened to the roots, and dung of the stable applied every three years. Woollen rags, sweepings ofslaughter-houses, and such strong manures, are proper; but the usuaI one is a composition of horse,..dung with them, as those articles are so expensive. Sheep's dung is considered lQo hot, and. that .ofpigeons still more so. An olive tree may produce thirty cartes of olives, and these four cart.es ofoH; but to do this a large tree, and of a very capital killd, iSlleee&lary. Tbose whicb yie1dJeight

PROPlfR'rtÈS OF THE OLIVE TRRE.C'd11l1tries, ,vhere the quantity of linen (of herbp altnost universally)oorne into use is remarkable.A washerwoman's stock exposed to dryconveys the appearance or idea of a çi-devant French battalion drawnup in front. But to retnrn to the olive: This Hee does not like to tluitthe vicinity'of the sea; at least it does Dot thrive beyond thirty milesdistance from lt. This proves the range of the influence of sea atmospherein rendering the climate mild. Thus we see the allegorical spirit,too, of the ancients, in the contest of l\fil1erva and Neptune forthe service of lllankind lOne presents hirn with the olive, the .naturalgr"Hvth of the sea-shore; the other with the horse, that is to say theship, the steed cifthe oèea'fl.The idea is familial' to our northern bards.The olive can bear dr'!J cold, bl!lt not sleet or icicle. A tolerablysevere wrnter,however, has not kiUed any trees here, aHhough theylo6k sickly. Indeed their natura} hue is such; but in congenial weatherthèir leaves drop off.The proprietors of olive planfations do not speakof them; it has been observedas equal in point of profit with otherolbjects: Jet theyaifecultivated, planted, and replanted, especiaHy inBtDaiU proportions, probably for domestic cOl1venience.offal pays the expense of trimnling and dressing.The sale of tlle'rhey are a very flil..carte$ofoliveS' and one carte of oil are eonsidered very good •. As, usually, these trees bear but everysecond year, and 1I10reover many but ~very four, or even eight years; and as in an olive plantationînere are somewhichoccùpy a largespaee of ground, and sonle declining, the computationôf"ofitscannot justifiably be made upon its highest seale. The canne or carte ofoil varies in price~according to the finenessof .the oil, and the ahundance of the harvest, from fifteen totwenty-fO\1f{fanes. This canne or carte weighs from twenty to twenty-two pounds weight, Montpellier measure,fhefinest heingthe lightest.The costsof the gathering arepaid by thewood whieb the pruning thetree yields. The USe of hot water e:l\tracts more oil, .but injures its quality under the press. Languedocfurnhihes much vallJable matter; as for instance the silk-worm (our informant continues):· butthe mulberry i8 not now much cultivated, except in the mountains of the Cevennes and the Vivarais.Abhoug:h .the climate then"l iscold! the, wormis found to thrive better than in the vicinity ·of the sca ,A.lthoughthe nidusofthisanimal ls, as 18 weil knowni,tendered by Proviqence, likethatQf the bee,imp.ervious ta the thunder-boltt yetiti5 ftequently kiUed by the very nQiseon~.2 D 2

204; SECDND JOURNEY THROUGHFRANCE IN lS14.pm·tant statisticalohjeN. I tis fa matter of regret tbat trttth compelsthe observation, that the adultcrating the oïl with that of rare ls tooprevalent. A ql1antity of that plantis now grmvn; not here, .butinthe northofFrance. High prices hold out strong temptations. Theadulteration, however, maybe easily detecteèl,either by weightortaste; Jet in sorne instances it is nicelydone tob '~. 1t takes placebefore it cornes into the market. Thusmuch must suffice fol' the staplearticles of the meridional farmcr,-his corn, his wine,and his oil (asa statistic we must add silÎ

WEIGHTSAN DJ\fEAS UUES. 205S9lfl.~tJlÎng j~ req~l~s~te to.Oe saidnowopon .the subject of weightsa.l'.lclmea8.ure8.t\1is.is a lflQst laborious tus~,No.cbterion can eXIst without their verification; andin a country where every seigneur 11adunlimitec} pOW~r~lpon the subject within his own dernesne; and ancienPerhaps, as merch(J:nts§J1Yq( e},;.çhaggp,itistl}jStllpstÏ!~convenient shape.re~~pI1.,goodorbad,,~t the Qp.t.tonl of it.good for trade:".,..,..thel'e must be someBerc are the national weightsand measures of heretofore, '>vhich, it may be concluded, wherever theyareu,sed, are un'iform.Berc are the feudal weights and mensures, whichq&ier~t!eYery,step; the revqlutionary jargon, which supervened to put"'\7.'"'''' thing; and the late feeble attempt of crying tothiJ;lgs

i!06 S'ECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.tw~nty-fivepounds poids de marc i8 a hundred pounds poids de table. Then~w pound is the half kilogramme (five hundred grammes), and is to theEnglish pound as eleven to nine. The kilogramme is sixty-four inc1u~s()f water;, and twenty-seven cubie inc1les of salt water are as neat tothe Englishpound avoirdupois as (it ma!) be said), possible.The kilo.gramme was two pounds six ounces and a fraction poids de' table. Thedemi-kilogramme comes nearest to our pound weight in use, exceedingit by two and one-eighth pel' cent.Measurement of Contents.-The septier (a corn..measure) .weighs nin~tyFrench pounds. 'l'he hectalitre (which i8 "hat we. would calI tile sta~~temeasure) weighs in good wheat a bundred and sixtY to a hundred andsixty..five pounds *. Of liquid contents there are the litre t, sixty..twoinches, or nearly two new pounds weight, pl'obably the kilograJltm~;the pot, eighty inches, or one litre :1: and three tenths; the velt, ortwogallons, or twenty pounds weight; the muid§, wliichis three bordelaises,or ninety veZts, or fifteen quintals marc, or ~ighteen quintals MontpeUi~~measure. This bordelaise i8 thirty velts. A ton is fO\1'r bardelilis(NJof(lii~equintals marc.Of Lengtlt.-The French foot i8 longer than tbe Eoglish· by sixty..eight ift a thousand; the mdre is three feet three inches and seven..tendIS of an illCh, English meaStlre.In superftcial measurement,a thoHsand toises are 45Qôyards s

go toour fil.cre.The hectm' ls. 2540 toises, or J0,000 metres, two âéresand aha]f, and almost eight perches: or to the acre as live ta two;ded.ucting from two, one~fiftieth.The are is a hundred metres. Correct ca1cu]atic:>lls cannot he hopedfor, ex.oept by aperfeet collation Qf weights and measures betweeB thetwo cOlHltries, on the _'Jport; and t"büs is Bot easily effected. U ntiJ, hmv~ever,. thiss takes place, we must tak;e up with approximaHons; but acresand roods, bushels and quarters, galloBs and hogsheacls, aJonecoBveyaccu'rate ideas uponthe state of production and value. It 1l.1~ bejruclged mrw Hable a stra1nger is to suffer by his ignorance in auy country,intheservespects; hut this ls 110t the matter here. Having ttied t()co.mmunicate wl1at insight couJd be obtained on this subject, that ofagriculture shaH now he brorugh;t toaconclusion.Letting of land lsnot the practicc; .but whendol'1c, it is considerèdthàt 1t ought to pay the proprietr four per cent for his purchase~money.Ifh·ehold it liinlself, he expects it should pay him ten.'l'he tax of fivepe?' ce'iftumoB property, es·timated by tl1e o]d cadastre, but not, in faet,live upon one thousand in the present day, is laid on the farmer, andaUow.ed hy the ]andlord; as is theaetroi or market-düty, paid on sale,anElapplièd tolecal purposes. This may he considered as two-and~a-halfpet· eent.Ifthemeridionalfarmer getsin the market two pounds ten shilliBgsperEnglisb acre for his wbeat crop, he is paid for his laBd; otherWise;net. ~rhe maximum he lS permitted to expert at, is tl1reepounds twelveshillings. The produce of t11is acr~ in wheat.may he averaged at fortyeightstone.Theabove maximum is art the rate of forty shillings.theEnglish quarter *.>If, .Priees at Dantzig for nine years :-55, 47, 53, 75, 59, 46, 36, 41, and 52 shillings.Priees, Wismar, per last, of thirtèen quarters and a half, 34t. 145. 7d.----In th&'

SECOND JOURNEY 'l'FfROUGHFR.ANCfJ" IN 1814.)Vhen the farmer here sells his wneat ut the abave rate,hel11akesèle'arbut one pound five shillings peracre bf hiswhitecrop.iTheniteannotbe fi'om these that he looks for ten orh\relve, or mrentlH'eei otJolll'per'cent. for his purchase-money.Let us take facts asstated.Assignats lives respected in private ,life.The well..known author'of the 'sY'Sitern ofHeis apurehMcr,iibuit tCltlOgreat extent. 'l'he purchase he m~Hleisoftheigrangeotan episCi0ipalsèe.At 0ur Reformation the"landsof the clergy fell into thehands ofalreadygreatlandedproprietors: here,il1,E'ral1ce,tllcYiifelktoithei pttbli(.lrthÎs farm he gave ~hundred thousandfral1cs. The revenue it heretoforebrought in wafllabout five tnousAl1dfrancs by the year.bY'letting itinlots, to the stùll of twelve thousand, at theseptiers of corn pet' septarée.He 'raisedit;two'rhe septierthen sold for tenfrarncs.'Bc"lbwthis pricethetenant cannot live. »Vhateverinco:nsistency,·mQ;ybeinthese'staternents, truth requires theircoHationi;'1'0 sUhl orcloseup the sltbject--Ffa'ncemay, with a'view tG her ,agriculture,be divided thus; nanlely, into

MANUF ACTUitI!S, ETC: ~09Theextensiveness of such an investigation i8 obvious. Equally 50 isit~how Httle applicable must be the researches in one place to enable toform a judgement in another. Still, assiduity will obtain its reward :matter ofinterest'is presented everywhere.GENERALOBSERVATIONs.-The verdigrise trade is in activity:.'rhe artifieial sodas have oflate beenadoptedin the branches Qf manufactureinto whichthey enter; and that article is no longer one of importation.The tanneries are active here. 'fhisis themore remarkable, as inthe west of :France their fine decid lIOUS Gak ls seen èonstantly felled wiùldrebark remaining unstripped; prohably owing tocosts of carriage:­btrt'itind'icates a defect in statistics 80mewhere. Here theprocess i8executed with thebark ofthe 1'091 of the ever-gr.een oak. The rocl~ywastes i11to which no implement oonenter, whieh gunpowder onlycouM workupen, were once overrun with this weedofthe forest. Thesehave been fong eut down forfue!; but the stumps remain, just markedout bya few twigs. A woman now carns fifty sOus pel' day hy grubbingùp these for the tan-yard.They cure the Ieather more effeetuaUy int:wo monlhs than other bark does in six, or in a year.This quality wasooly diseoveredreeentlJ, and hy accident. It is only the peeling ofsuehstubbed roots thatwiH do, they say. Business is now very activein· Îit.Tiredas the public was ofwar,theydreaded still more the return oft:heir own armies; indeed, feared their countrymen in arms more thanthe national enemies. These are returned; and "ce sont des agn'eau.r/)is now the expression conèerning them, and de5erv€dly 50. They areextremelywell-behaved 1l0W in quarters: the peace of: the towns is noway disturbed by them.effect of ~The town5..people now account for this as ansuperior class of men having gooe into the ranks in consequ.enceof the -cons'cription; and It may he so.VOL. II.To escape the con..

210 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRA.NOE IN 1814.~cription, near-sighted men were made toplead tbeir clergy. If theycould read through a diminishingglass they were exempted; if not~they marched.In regard to taxation, it is considered this year as very heavy. Butt~lÏs is only according tothe a.Ilcient cadastre. The genera.lcontributionto be m.ade upis. eleven hundred millions (fifty millions sterling).The .imp~t pe,rsonnelle et mobiliaire i8 a fiftieth· on property. Houseaudwindow tax are tated according to the situation of tnep_·emises.Eighthundred nüllions (tnirty...three miUiollS$te~ling)anrlualliWFranccois very wcll ablerto bear, itis admitted byaH.Thework...house, or maison deif,.étejltion, here mustinterest the philan....thropist~when he learns t11at it proce~ds to its object withoutaft'ordingthesweets ofjobbing or salary. It Îs. nottrue'i tbat"noone isto_fo~.ul,d wht)wiU doa.ny tlling withoutb(~ing paid fOl; it.J> But,it,Ïs ttu,eth~tj befote wc take. tJpon·. US te) cast imptJ.tations UpOll o.thers for vices~atour o:'YD:discretion,..,we ought toin:lÏtatcprequal them in the virtnesthey do put inpractice. In tlüs establishm~'Q:t,w:hichris C())ln~l())nthe pr~vince,six hnndred prisonersa.re :watched,dieted~ lodged,c}oth.ed~and fitted ont in the w'oJ'ld forindustry, for:.tb.e snllltof.6,5001.anl:luaUy.:theacln}illistrators of the boardwhich regulates it ~respectable inhabi...tants of the town) acting without salaries. The prison has been huilt"and institution formed, sinee the revolution; indeed witbin tbesetenyears.Men, women, andchil(lren are, eaeh description, kept apart. Two.sleep in each bed. These " sleeping-rooms are so cleankept, that at eighto'clock in the nlQflling, on entering them, it would he thought they badnot .beên inhabited for six lll,onths. lVfattresses and wooUeneoverlets,laid on boards on iron tressels, constitute the bedding, everyarticle·Qf,h,which is made in the prison. N othingpresents itself to oft'end any seJ1se, ~.

~fl()t', the most delicate. Every one lS made to work. They are nowspirming cotton;Men may use their respective handicrafts':-nereisa carpenter's shop, a tailor's, even locksmiths! A man learns tb spincotton in six weeks. AlI the prisoners areclothed, too, in the manu.facture orthe' pl4ce. The:tmmber of the confined has amounted toeight hundredand fifty.; ;;. '1~héJ:lumber ofsick is about eighty~ The~ain ofa prisoner atlabour isabont forty sous a week; or seven'sonsa.day; out of which he lS aHowed one halfto expend atwill. "lkresidueaccumulates, and 18 given them at coming out ofJaiI, that wantofelnploy may not re-stimulate tbem to crime. W ~()nen was formerlymanufarttured'Jhere·fal' the'J.ievanttrade; but at present the loomsarenot in Jwork... In case oficontuniacy, shouhla pri.soner refuseto'work,heisput incioseconnnemant: then'cotton 18 put before.hiilitobeat;and heis told, " Work, and you 8hallchn1e out~)J The worst dispositian$farely hold outlong; and none have everbeen found unconquerable:yefthey have had themof severaI, indeed most nations:-'aU havebeenbrought by this method to work. There are various yards in thebuilding, respectively appropriated. Very few sentinels. Much of theoffi·cesand ·duties· of the prison is done by prisoners.One is nowpost­Îllg accounts in the bureau. They aH uncover and remain standingand silentwhen an inspector or strangers enter. The expense of a hundredand fiftythonsand francs per annum is paid by eightdepartments,ail which send their prisoners hither. Sorne are detaiued for twentyyèars; one for life. The maintenance of a prisouer last year ,vas ratedat six sous and a half. pèr day (tluee pence farthing). This yearitamounts to eight sous (four pence). They have meat on Sundays(cheap andsparing of course): on oUter days broth thickened with lard,sheep's insides, vegetables, &c. varying as much as possible.2E2A pound

21~ ~ECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.and a half of bread to each-brown for the well, white for the sick-jgserved out clai}y from the bakery in the prison.Baker and journeymeuan prisoners. The bread is excellent. The servi~e of the diet is con..ducted with a regularity, not an idea whereof can be possessed withoutsceing it. This takes place at the hour oftwelve. Apothecary's store~laundry,. aH is in the sarne place withthe rest; Those who clie aretransferred to the s.urgeon's rOOm for anatomy; and thusthescbooloîth* science is supplied here. To continue the subject~ Such i,s theexcellence of police in this part (i)f theworld,. thatesCalJe

JURISPRUDENCE.,'vrongs iare. of two descriptions, public and private.Wben a personCOlUCS to reside in a country new to him, it mighthe thought that neadyhis ~t'st step would be to inform himself what is the procedure which.is,.or ought, to takeplaceunder~uchcircumstances as may happen.Of howull;lnydoesit nev~rente.rthethoughts! AlI in police employ,namely genda1'mwrie, posted by bJ'igades, (smaUbodies) horse and foot,allthrough the country,and. gqrclesdes!~al/.x ~t .forêts are bound bytheir dutY to further the object .of a complaina:pt. ln each town, orindeed village, are;amaYf and llisadjuncttoreceive it.llure.qu d'aprp:liçatciou corçesponds with our magistrate's office. Herethe officers WhOjfeCeive complaints are thecO'lJmissair~ depQ.~ic~"ii,~be!P'lf,().C'~'fel~r'1JP!l.al,j1Jgede p(I,ix, maire and hisadjoint.. ; rbeprocure#1~is!;tb·e·pfficeJj. ~llP tr~J;ls.141it~ iufonnatious,seud..in.gtllê.m tothejuge d'inSt1'lf,.çtiop,. ... lIeis in SQtJ;l.e respect cOrFespondentto our clel:,kofthe. pe~ce, orof..thecrowQ". The j~ge.d'instruction compIetesthat:duty by Iaylng,thembefqJ.'ii the. court of indictment, whichsits weekly atthe.ç4(],.lJl~re des. conseils. 'court 15 a section of the, 'coltr impériale, of the depal'tment; and isc"posed of three judges, who,1ikeour gr:and jury, find, or throwout, bills" ~rhis ls named coUP de.dé'Ronciatioz~,;. takes inforu;H;~tions, upon, and examines into the proofs.It,i5 thesJlhsti~ute fOf' ·Qur gran~; jury, and ,..the main const~tutional.differencebetween t11e c

~14 SECOND JOURNEYTHROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.was tried in France; but habit i8 more obstinate than nature, and grandjuries could not be got to find an!! bills.This thenwas the substitute.From this court, however, the business i3 transmitted to the assizes,which are held in eachdepartment every three months. As thejudgesand aIl officers of the court must ,'eside in tlle depa.rtment, a special commissionis readily ordered on any particular emergency, oP!indeed anycase which is thoughtto requireit.. The judges bear the tide of conseil...lers de sa mqjesté: the numberfor Paris and thedepartments iS-Tor ParissixtYat the utmost,and'Torty ab the lowest; ·Tor;oth.erplaces;fopty attheutmost, and twentyattlu~lowest.and criminal; but appeal'îl:ies toParis.Before?the1l1 comes a11 matter,' civilThe procureur royal answerstoour coroner; the prefect to our sheriff: In court,five judges situponthebench; one being, as we should say, chairman.:Phe ears in the course. of the session in court, .but does Dot take anJpart in the business there. The juryis drawn very fairly;but it is extreme]ydifficult to induce peop~toattend. Their objection is, ~, Whatbusinéssis it of mine ?.1).hat they do Dotseemtohàveanidea thatany trouble of governing dtÎlî18elvesmustd;evolve 011 free menJ· Thefine for non-attendance i8 five hundred francs; and the acéuseur général,the prosecuting officer, rrîove,s the infiiction orthe fine upon defaulters.The court is not tbrown open to the public unti~the jury is sworn. Themain defect in the procedure here under view was, that neither theopening the case, nor the testimony of witnessés, was kept sufficientlyclose to the point. 'Fhe exceptions taken by the prisoner~s counsel werejudicious, and his arguments powerful. The witness. is asked on oathif he is connected with the prisoner.The president judge warus thecoumel not to say any thing contra bonos mores, nof against the dignityof the court.Undoubtedly here is much irregular matter, whichtime

FORMSOF TRtAL, ETC. ~15and .p'ractice will expunge: such, for instancê, as the bench interrogatingthe prisoner, and drawing out indiscreet avowals. Matter offormer years was brought in charge against him; matter which, as hiscounsel observed, no one knew ever happened at aH. Three withessesare undt1rexamination. at the same tiIlle; and the' accltseur général puttingquestions to thep1'isoner. LeadiIig questions are put, too, towitnt1sses, by the bench. All this willbe rectifit1d; for here is an extrt1meanxiety to know' the mode of procedure· ofour law-courts in England,whereon t11t1y wish, fully sensible ofits excellence, to model themselv.eshere.'l'he trial finished, the prisoner is remanded, and the jurynotp~ohably.liking to risk the lenten entertainment therough equity.ofourancestors.subjects oursto. The court adjourns.o'nthe nextmorning prisonef.+and..ju~y~ppearincourt; he is remandedout, .and the jury re.tire •.. todelibt1rate. "\iVhen the jury enter to giveverdictbytbeir foreman,tlle prisonep is not in court. The. terms ofthe verdict seern to us somewhat chevalresque, which sorne will admire:" Sur mon honneur, etnuJ,conscience." The prisoner is then brought in,sentenCE) pronounced, and law quoted *.The cod(!.d~instrllctioncriminelle is but a sketch ofjurisprudence: butwhat.i$ this,.herein l!'rance, more .than an incipient thing? where canthey have.as yet a massofprecedent to '\ralk 13y? In case of slanderthe worcIsmusthèproved; whichdone,a pecuniary .fine isincurred.* Such wasthe process in the s'UpreqIe court of the department•.Othercourts, composed out ofthe bench of judges, sit el.sewhere. AJlthis is at th~ discretion of the president; but his, which iscalled cour royale, is the supreme. The term for adjunct is assessem'. The iirst-president's place isworth 15001. per allll1J,m. The minor departmel~~s;ofotlice havesmall salar.iesto reward the toils ofstudy: .but, ennUlancite, there are qI~e~oftheI:t+;as.[orinstance, nine conseillers, six auditeurs,tliree avocats. généraux, so clown to the greffier or cle;k of court. A justice of peace receives Fromfifteen hundredto eighteen hunclred !ralles.•

2f6 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.'frespass is weIl guarded against, under the heads domicile and cabane* ,R~ligionis secured in its rigbts, something more thantoleration; as i8fuHy experienced and felt by the Protestants of the south. Persona1assault is punished by imprisonmentand fine, very beavy too *. Il isnot, bowever, considered here ~breach of the public peace, but merelyas a wrong to an individual. Engagement i8 taken to prosecute. Inregard to the oratory of the bar: the French language, aJthough ad-, mimbly adapted for the fluency of ordinaryconversation, as its universaIintrod uction proves it, hasnot the rough;;eclget~quisite,forversificationor oratory. Walter Scott'sromanèe~withits teeth so filecl clown,wou1d not harrow us as at present ; and how much more' powed'ul1ywoulcl the same matter that IS delivered here impress us, we-re it conveyedin Spanishor in German! It is oQvious tothe stranger, however,that withjugede paix, maire, procureur, gendarmerie,andgarde,'tfor~ts t,there is no want ofmeans of waft~ng biscomplaints, should he have'any to make, to the bigher powers.There are tbree ways in which law, the emanation ofH.eaveu&reachesman. First, As on :Mount Sinai, whichprecludes aIl discussion; forlaw is a divine light, bowever perverted or refracted bere below: hencethe Numa of Rome, for Num in Scythian means tbedivinity. '2dly, It, .. '• Neither hiows nor homicide are punishahle in self-defence, or in defence ofanother. Offencesagainst decellcy are punished hy imprisonment of from three months to a year, and fine of sixteen totwo hundred francs. Personal assault, without arms, is pUllished hy imprisonmentof from one totwo yeaTS, and bya penalty of from sixteen to two hundred francs. Menace, however, does not giveus any illsight how the tine ie drawn hetween two outrl.l,gee, ofwhich the one treading so close on theheels of theother, it is difficult for a party aggrieved to decide the precise moment when he is justifialilyto assume the care of his caseinto his own hands.t Ttlis,'body is not only respectable hut formidable. Strong as it ie, it is Ilot heyond whata countryof such great extent and poptilation ought to have. It amoJ,lnts toeighte.en tbousand. What are&alled brigades, anSWer towhat Wc would denomiI)ate $f.Juad$.

JURISPRUDENCECONTINUED. 217is :conveyed from man to man, or to man by hispeers and neighbours, asin England, which is the best method here. Or, Sdly, It is irnposed bydespotism, in whose hands, or from whose bands, it will rarely flourish.l\1ay these gloomy surmises, however, be falsified by experience ~! ItlS impossible not ta approve the promptness wherewith a special sessionisconvened here" on the transmission of tbe indictment from the courtofjnquest, for the trial of a single crime. Here is no accumulation ofguilt and depravity lying in gaols for a general fJelivery. No putting offtrials by unsubstantiated affidavits, until proseclltions are wearied off, ortamJ?ered off. Here is, with aIl the faults of thesys,tem, (and its prin.cipalone, ie one itwill cure of), much to approve; aJthoughUlldoubtëdlyevcl'ytbingt'h'e term adiniration relates to must be re§,~,rvedfor ,our .DWU at home in England,notwithstanding any impe;"fëêtiQnsthatmay be found in it,as in allthat i8 the work of men's lia.nds.It may weIl be expeeted tliat alteration, in human life, sbouldproceedwith mllch more rapid ,and certain steps than amelioration. AIl ofold days here i8 changed ; ,but the SUPrfstructure of what is to he, in this$ 'l'he following statement will mOl'e completely show how fullY the law in its administrlltioni~piJtin reach of the public here: This is in .the .ehief tm,vn of a depllrtment;-The a~sizes, as already ohserved, are quarterly.,Sittings.-Chamhred'es appêts de police correctionelle, every Friday.Audietlcc of civil. tribunal, Friday and Saturday"Chambre correctionelle, Monday and Tuesday.Tribunal of police, Wednesday and Saturday•.A trihulial of commerce sits (jnce a-week.Oneofn)tinicipalpolice sits twice in the week.And the town-is divlde'Û int:o tlltee sections, in eaéh of which justictk of peaeeholdopen seSSIontwo days in the week. Hereis also a council':'general of the department, wliich p~rforms ,certaindûties. Eaux et f01'êts in general thtough France. ate under fiveadministrators, assisted by conservators,inspectors, and sub.inspect:ors. 'l'hus Montpelieris the head9,uarter of the fourteenth con..r.;ervation, wilich il1cludes the ,eastem PYl'enees.

&t~COND .fOURNEY THROUGll FRANCE IN 1814.respect at least, proceeds but slowly.In regard toecclesiasti~al [naHers~possibly as requil'ingless pairfs in order to he U11derstood, the substitutionof new 'regime is complete.It is 110t unwise,prohabiy, foconstItutea numerous body in tbis department, in orderto'turn the public mind tothe study of jurisprudence.In the process of tÏille additiorjal encouragementwillbe constantly acquiring to this direction ef the api)Héation'of rising youth. It \vas in former days afa very low ebb. Thelwbl'essede l'obe, as it was caHed, ,vas, for its noblesse,1.JOtiJct prœtereanihil ;:Dothing was on the ton desllpêribrite Save ,Dours; for ptofit, aU mergéH lnclll:i~~h\.Jr:Fhifty years ago, theonlything'seen like affluence herc was irlâhclaboutthe ecdêsiasticaloFd~I~.As fo~instance, the bishop of this di'Ûcese, which was nothingin coin..parison to otl\ers..:He Bad', however, are,":énue· ofa.'hundredând fiftythousand livres, 75001. a;;;year:fs3. va~f sutr}' in that fime. To hispatroh..age went 'twehty canonries of from six thousandlivres to twenty thousanaper awnum each ;nfteen prehendaries, and as many grand,ricaragesas he chose U) nominate*. 'l'he c\:U'es were nearl'y âs!o..di:ly.havebeen preserv.ed. Besicles this, twomagnincentpalaces; one in town,one in the country, with extent ofdemesne atî'uaned to it. AUthe gooclthings of this world heid equal proportion to the establishment whic11supported them. Then to come to n:lOnastic life: here w'ere in one townthirteen monasteries; seven of fl1en, six of women.The monks were inthe number of ten or fifteen to eaen; but the womel1 considerably morenunlerous in their own establishments.Butitwas ,Dot the nutnbers, itwas the system which was oppressive' upon lifeee MUch" also, is to hesaid in"mitigation of censure on feroale convents; fôr monks, nothing•.. The present church establishment of the diocesê(two departments united) consists of a bishopll.t ten thousand francs p81' annum; two vicars-generaI atfifteen huodred each; and thirty-sixcurates, first elass at fifteen hundred, and second class at a th

FORMER ClIURCII ESTABLISHMENT.Still the cruel mode of their reformation must èxcite compassion.'hatis very different from a wish to see thern here agaiFJ.ButIt was impossiblefor any country to bear up against the weight ofchufch estab1ishmentwhichhereto:f()re oppressed France.They had the tenth ofaIl ;butthis was the'l1ett tenth, $0 that it was in fact a fifth; and thusevery fiveyears, and. indeed.before theil'expiration, they received one,entire year's produce of thew1w)ec()u.ntry; that lS, so much went bytheirmeans, totally sunk and lost to the community. This caiculation,Ùl.âdehere, seemsto be just; for lab()ur, capital, and time must bep,roduce:>Y:'.Of this the clergy yielded none; ittoo, aIl irnposts were 'ta be paid ()utofthe residue !hecould keep little ta put inbis own moutll. Mons.ieur l(ireAe'lJ,da:nt,too, the se;·igneur's steward, could110pe ta get but 1itt1e, aftel' thelandedpropertyhad undergone the;f:lcrutiny of the 1ynx's eyes of tbe.cle~gy;between whom and the game,hares, pheasants, and partrldges, this fine,country's pr()duce was divided.Besidesthis, the>clergy had the church posessions, which had devolved .to them before the mortmain law, and which aiso contributed nothing,to thestate.This enabled them toreclaim and bring to tl1eir ownprofit lands wbieh, .in those days, no one else wouldhave attempted.'J.1lle ,revolutionseized aIl this""7"-" Squeeze thouihe bagsOf hoarding abbots-":".,...;....but the nationllas it. 'rh~ bishop in former limes drave his coachand six fl'omJa;se()lJntr~to bi~t~!wPiP(ilftce;andh(id aIl the Q()llCO­Il1i~t~nts of (i.fflllenc.e, ofy~oodfl-hdevil;,nioral and physical. The pre.sent;bishop ,walks.on' f(),p~, t.l~'ll~,c4~~rful,an.d .~qbllst.;(;. They contributed in no shape; theirs was pure consumptioll.2 l' 2

2'ZO SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRA:NCE' rN' 1814.'The dissenters * are extremel'y numerous tHrougnout these sontIicflltracts.They oecupy thal most respectable middIe c1ass, whicn residlIpon property, ~md I:i\'es~in competence, without dèsiringto ~mar. rrheyare extremel'y strict in tlleir rcligious principles and discipline; andtheir pastors are men of mostexemplary assidhity and decorum~t·. Ttmay wen be judged what thefr opinions of things are.Be this, ho,v,­ever, as it may, nothing could preveiIttheir taking thèmostdecidedsteps, in the late unhappy event~in sup~p.o~~'~!}:0~~:si~~the:~~B:l~~vern ment, as by làw and'constitution esta1:fl,Î51lcd;< Enrolmentfol' thatpm'pose, on the' 6rst alarn]l,tb6kplaèé\~ltlîtH~grê~têsfspirit ;- fiftêelll1undred volunteers enteni1g tliêlllselves n'()m 'the' One toWÎl, in the cohtkeof four days, eight hundred of wlwm actually Inarched.Misforftineshave made the FrencH a reflecting people'; ancl/tne rcfiectioDdf" ~navis r referent té in mm-v:," oècurred to every Iilihd. Nothing coulelexceed the desponcfency of the people of thélô,vns in HlC sŒlltl1·, onhe~ring the Jânguage usedby cern{in of thé .1iHlitary in marchingthrougli: and Hiis was universal. lu no instancê didwith concurrence; no, noeftom the very lowest order, who, it lllight besupposed, wouldcc_rub the handscc. At sound of burly discontt'nt." ..The universal wish of men in France i& to sit cach under his 0'''11.. The protestants amount to tWenty~f(lul' tholfso.nd,' Œh~yha.ven,ow· (far di:ff't-rellt from thetimes when they were fain. to creep into holes and corners to worship, theirGod) a consistorial churchfor every six thousand'souls. Five snch churches complete the circuit of a synod. Binee catholfcpersecution has ceased, the protestants gain" but. few piselytelll,î anll their numberiB in, the present.day rather on the decline.t They are, like the viear (lf Wakefield, strict monog.o.®'ist~"

l>lARs IN VlEWFûR FRAN-eE.-ftg-tltce. He wishes to pursue occupationSprOl'llising rational result,andto possess a durable happiness füunded" thereon, if it will come.He no longer tries to disentangle hirnself from the Inisery accumulatedove1' hill) and his, by dancing and gaiety, forcecl and foreign tü th0 circurnstances.It wi1lnot be cusy to conjure up/the fiend of political rc,·action in France; alldwÜh'outi.t~~it;y.ualllrciand flolitics. 'Inro plans areîn view forFFatlCe; one-.is, ta have ber as in. the days of Louis XV.,the otb~r) as in oLour Henries and Edwards: but those days arencither' of tl1en o.nes. We have a trite Latin proverb aslllueh tothe wecan say.thereupon. AH is changed.-But berei& nottheStOllS sijch as this subject wouldlead to:In regard to LOCAL.Sorne tornbsof thements, have been re(~entlgreat southern road; a fe'nT;bear an interes~.divided in compartbythe side of thefrom .Montpelier, close to and,on, theright-hand side ofthe road;'The ancient inhabitants of this country belonged to that brandI ofmankind so diffused through Europe under the name of Volsei. Thelanguage now spoken here, one of the Gascon dialects, is more pleasingtothe ear than pure French, butprobably has no traceable relatic::m todie.'ancient tangue. Greeks, Rolimns, Arabs, Goths, have aU traversedthesedistr~.~tSt.'111~I:ft'rs~me

22~ SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.the POOl'.The authe knowledge ofand Îts virtues, tThese lagoonsboiled down supresent anshot they reqsportsmen, withfreaks sent a mas happy to leave behind him as a substitute,,bark of the barberry, in French épine 'Dinette,e efi'ect, and even in a stronger degree.d with what is caUed the mud.tortoise, whichle human stomach, «ven when in its most delineitherrejects nor is encumbered.ch it is difficult, if not danakethem birds; blÜount of what theyflesh! We shallaversy. TheycJ.,ent to deprivemust exi&t. Theein.great Bocks, andlittle powder andcovered byhe time when suchriver affords a fishworthy of a niche in the bill of Jare ofany bon 'vivant: its name here isremouge 1~.'CLIlIUTE.-(Extracted from notes upon foliation and vegetation, takenbetween the mouths of the Rhone =1:Thermometer frequently at and about 40.and the Pyrenees.)-January.'Vet weather from the south,-!< See plate;t At Aiguesmol'tes St. LouisThe altE~rat,lOnwhich has taken place Letween his day ana the present one, aft'orasa seale toprocesses of nature. ft is in thisêyieinity, ,as is weil ~nown, that.Tul,iter prostratedbolts, and inhurnated in superineurnbent~artl~: tl~~~ia~~i~~:or ôpposingthe. ê.... .,' êê viatorialHercules. This last divinity appears upon thescene oft\ucient life in various characters ~t least, if!lot personifications; none but had the!!' rcason.

.A.TMoSPIIBRE.-LITHûLOGY.dry from t.he north.-January 7th, Some snow, which evaporated with­0Ut wetting the ground (the\yild rose keeps its verdure through aIl theseverity of winter); but it is hardly one ycar in ten that snow falls hereto whiten the gl'ound.-l?ebruary 5t.h, The green saHow blossomed ~.bees began to stil'; the house-fly reappeared.-On the first of Eebruarythe thermometer in the shade at mid-day was at tempel'ate of London.But on the preceding 26th of January the ice was five iuches and foursixthsof an inch thick, when the thaw commenced.Great electricity in(A dry frost.)air, indicated in the repulsion of silk, cracklingof hair, &c. On about fifteen hundred feet above sea-IeveJ,turfl1f.' (tou,rb(},) .moisturereadiltbe derivàtives"of granitethe sUl'face retards the trausudation ofHere is no granite; butdoes true schist presentitself; but an does. much ;-a bluefi'ee-stone flag, or sand free-stone, This Îs thepoorest of soiIs; and ranges of hillsofresinous tr·ibe affect. This is the worst of tract~much resembles parts of Berkshire, in its Iong..ledged,.slopes.the- treesSome of the countryThe rivel.'tract.i-s.composed of :flat meadow, of sandy composition, but the swellsare ferruginous graveLThe tamaris1\: is the common aquatlc of theditches. The quercus coceifel'a is the common tanning plant. Themeadow tract has a tendcllcy to rushes and turf; but aH is now bringingto the vineyardby the powerful aid of hand-labour, seventy-five men1

224 ~ECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.Both contain matter of interest. The tradeof .~he fvmer place is be..coming very active. "Its value as a harbl.lr was~J;lowncident, and an unlucky one; a Fr~nchto escape the fate of her compallions.,!IIbut by(~n aCMsevcnt.y..four obliged to try it~It i s .smaU, and comma,nded.. The rocks above it appear to be a compound ofgranulat~dtrapp ina calcareous bed ~f. It is .apier-hal'bour. Should tradefiurisI1ta,ll,the extent it might, jt ,will be found to smaUJol: .contain two .hundred vesseIs.The lagoons\vhichand fl1rni~hinland water-carriage, arecrosseçlarches, and eight hundred ieet length.l'HA u.This w!lfprft couldThe fore-mentione4ht~l:lch9Jinland n.~vjgation gO~~by.the11ame of the Canal des Etangs,. cornm.unicating.~vithAiguesll;lortesbeyondthe Rhone, the former dimcultie~ at the mouth whereof are nOwobviatcd by the Catwl ,dlt Port de Bouc ,at Arl~s. A bason and sluicehave al80 been made atBeauÇ!i;lire; and a hillat i\gde on the coast nolonger impedes the inlaJ;lQ.coml11unication ofthe wi;lter levels, for theconnexion of theRhon~,tlleAude,and the Garonne 1~..Feb. 15. StrugJarnbs,mottled breed., apparently.sixn10fiths olcl.22. 'Veeping wiUow foliated.24. 'VIlite-thorn and quince foliated.I\.Iarch 18. Borse CheSDJlt,n,sh, and Carolina P9plar foliated.in biossom.l'Vlarch 19. The mid-day blastsarepf extreme severity.rarcfies in the lowcl' traets, the cold andFurzeAs.theair'* Sorne marine exuvire.t In regard ta the canal of Lallguedoc, its armuai proêluce at preserlt'Ï$ severaI miIriôns of livres.Part is received by the representatives of the fil'st proprieto.rs; Plll'tof its produee Wl,ts seize

'CROPS, 1rrC.~.eliniés î~tl~hes.clown tooccupy itsp~ace;~:an'om.ctrica'lequHi·btittrn isestablished.the -returning!iiSlInca:Hs it·out.andthrtS will ifbc nntil ther­WinterC'oldIies torpid untill\farch 25. rrhê'§,vaHow wasse'en al the north of the Mediterranean.Apr~I)~.O'Uck

:passing this line ef water-level, a censiderable desc~n;.1 , '", " ' , t, -,' i(,j , l' ~ i{. ' ,;" .'. ':

,""" ,-~

'Thus the produce of the foot of the Pyrenees finas its way acrossEurope now to Amsterdam.The vicinity of Narbonne, where aH \Vas formerly famine and apathy,now teems with produce, animal as weIl as vegetable. In its rich natura1me'adows an OK of from six ~o seven hundred weight will, in the presentday, on the new face or tlie earth, fatten; and proof to this effect 15.conspicuous in its daily market. This is now literally a land flowingwith milk andhoney; as that 'wbich bas been just left is one of corn,'Wine, and oit.MaTch il. Whit~-thorn in blossom. Vine and mrilberry foliated.Aloé'fénées appear.The pHncely irièbffiëofthelate arclibishop (Dillon), and the hospitalitywherewith he dispenseà it, were prov~rbiâl; and inhis instance6uch wealth was not misapplied: but the same cannot he alJowed forthe system-a community in famine, and a state in decay, with themere exception of a few individuals atthe head of the church!More'Solid meat appears now upon one butcher's stan here than \Vas COll­'Sume

stupendous, and in consequence docs not.ha,rmeuize, .. for proportibrrs+could not be kept. The roof i8 thrownupto sucha heig.ht,that, witrlac]n~%,side, the .ken, of the eye hardly l'caches iL. The ribs and hurrs 'are sei.e~ltifiçall'y placed; bQ;t the forrneEdo Hot spFingout of corbeIs,. but are,spunout of the plain wall. The polygouwestetll.terminatiÇ?n ofa'French,cathedral has not bX any means the gJ;andeur of one plain windaw op...;:p6sed to the settiag sua.The entrances, toa,iareino0tl;seq;t!lencepaltry.The beauty of the cQlouring in the glass exee:eds forthing,that can be conceived. On the outside,LtiltetQ which the a,rchitect sot;lgpt tohring it, re~1.1ired, buttresses of nocommon description--flying buttresses of course = and they (j)i,a lig~tnessta deserve th.e term, or they would,. from thewidth·tbey'l*c--,(l~ired, haue maç!e dm:lmess flot visible.•.. CaJ~aljers, tao, with pinnaôles,loaded with croc.kc;ts, arc put ash:.ide ou;. t,hem tokeep. themin theÏt.r.]aces. Ahutments, too, are necessar:y ta holdaU tight. On.the whole"compare~twit~ our sÏtWlélf wOl,jks iPt Eng!apd;, .. it.:is,rather, stul),endotls~>than beautifu.};Page S6. :pER,PIGN~:N:.~1Vl~h ge;,Qlqg~çal'IDatter Rresen,ts itself'Îl'l,/ the route frum Narbonne ta Eqrpignan, in th~lüIly''ivbich i8 fpri,the most paft lithologifaJ~on Hs very elevations.SQqle alluvial traçes are, ho;~ëvet,;obvious.,.li c,l:\sicieTable tntet is ver.y;,re:fraotory H).IHlnl.~"ll,efl;ortJwre, qt;lt occueatio~\h~s beg,uu, ACQnsiderablec PlJrnber()f,su~~,i "stantial cottages present;themselves; an.d,here and" there 11leS$uag~sof,more cOl:pprehelisiv,e plan. The vine must do the bU$ine$s heœ.sacred builqil1g~. 'l'pese,round, towersp~(~ctl~'corf;e~pf)nd..i~diw:ens.io~,:.,,:,;ndfafm with the MWin§ulated .towersseen, in ..Ireland -thetUT;l'ese.çl;~esi(lstiçce.. 911,(Jre mqjf!ru'IfI,li>fOiralduS' CambteQsÏ:i.,The most ancient cIJurch of.the pointedarpbitecture.Q( asc~l·tainedrera.is that of St. of'lNiçotia, 911i1t unçlcr; l;il.lC JJireek.~J~pE~rorll.. l'Jhis, ..bo'~tWlex",iII'cSl~

BEZIERS, SALUS, ANCIENT- FORTIFJCATJON.·The tract from Beziers to the foot of the Pyreriees rilay bedescribedas follow's: namely, as a borizontal stratum, through which protrude,at intervals of from ,three to five miles each, the oblique edges of stra.. ,tified rock dipPÜlg northward. The soil is calcareons; but a more:reccnthodzontaUy placed on the summitsofthe~e lSQcky' chains~At SaIns, tbe .. post on the north ..'sideof Perpignàn, 18 an ancientcastle. It aiforilsa specimensomewhat rare of

SECOND 10URN"EY THROUCH FRANCE IN lS14.lion, gl'eat quantities being collected forrlistîUâtioD.Ifereis>thefielcl-of battle ,\y,hel'e Charles MaTtel defeated tlî6"Sai'aCerîs. The botders ofctihe Mediterranean, planted and buiJt,arebeaJutifuV;itîland, the face' ofnature looks w,hite and arid, but has yiel«ed to tillage..As many bourgeois are counted by the side ôfanelû; ..as'peasants afmanuallabour within it. Thus, nowAa-days, the labo\lrer carries outtbat food which in frmer ones ga'\':e himl'So littletr:(!)u'ble in tMs '\pay.ae i8 DOW: at least asweU pnovided as If·ndi'br:as is:a~Jo'\ped~l bybis·}J:oct,tohav:e saHied out,atJe~st; for,oaa:,;one srdeis'sêên'aBle:ndifm'0ûsldâf~,>on the otber as enormousa bottie of:wàne.cnollgh to take sorneTheil" tneal 'i8 considêrableallà theY'takespeeialcare not to dispat'chit: with any indecorous:haste. Of'this their empîdy'ers cd'l!npla~ll,bnt itis,of no,avail :......c01~véeisover, to return nomore-task-masfers are ontheshelf. They do,however, it'Tmusvbeadlnitteû, work harêhearly'and"Jate.A good dea1 of bustJeprevaiJs inthis, town of Perpignan. :Ftom ittoLe Boulou at the foot 'of tbe Pyrenees the soil ri5e5. 1t ls eOlnpQs~dentirely ofgranitic rubble, ànddecomposition.:most wortny ofparticularad\rertenoo. This roof is veryheavy, and'ofliÜlè pitcn; of course thewalls require to be strong,bearing no fewerthan three 'Courses ()f tiles. They do not use thorough1'llfters, but norizontal beam'8; as for instanet>, one at theridges (though the)' have not always a cen­Jtral ridge) and parallelones. 'Thenthesel;Jeams being at the distance from each other of five orsÎxfeet, the shorter rafters arerequisite. The slope of the roof is to its horizontal extent as one to four.On the rafters'aeourse of fiat tiles is laid; on these aMthêr of concave tiles bedded in mortar;,and. on the edges of theseagaina course of convex--.forming altogether a roof equal to vaulting.These tiles are not cylindrical, but shovel-shaped; the fiat tiles lire convex-quadrangular.-Dimen-'sions :-Rafter to raf1>er eightincll'es_Tlieir scantlillg four inches broàd:bytwo inches and a halfdeep.-Flattile, one inch thick, fourteenby SC\'eD'; weight six pOUud8.-Segment tiles, leDgthtwenty Înches; narrow, seven inches,; hroad, ten inches; thickness three-fourths of an inch;weightseven pounds.'"'-8egment, one-thirdofa cÎ!-de.The eavesarê well f)rojected, wïtn maclü­

,~,~J;~Meg()ii'fer~Ji>:\i~~ irs IlO~Y;Olle sheet of cult~l,e; this must havepo,p,ulîjJiop,,~t

S'ECOND JOURNEY THROUOft:garrigue; now smiling with cnltivation an~ cotsoil.lit its head is :Mont Louis; and it.presentswonder of nature, Cardona in Catalonia, the roas yet too early.At Le Boulou the valleys, ·as m

nationwhichPORMATJON AND COMPOSITION OP THE PYRENEES. ~33tbêmore itrefiects*.The highest summits are of calcareous matter.The 111,ain mass i8 of schist; and it is probable that what we at presentsee is little more than the base of the mass.According to thegeneral laws of Nature, decomposition hills formparallelito great chains of mountains. These hills again have a tendencytoferruginousand othermetallic'conformations. The courses ofthewate,r~arethen turned parallel to the chain, until, no longer to be1'e , they force their way through this secondary line. Such hashere: such is the case at the foot of l\10unt Atlas. Asthe aquatic plant of the plain of Languedoc below, 50•affects these high situations of about five thousandThe rnountains may he considered as enteredthe time the cork-tree presents itselfwith iis picturesquera­These trçes are mpch swayedhere from the south-west,blasts from that qnarter.The new road to Belgardeadmfrât~'fY laid out, with hardIy a deviation from the uniform incliofthe plane: and to do this, obstacles have been conqueredNt'f'4f;~ntinsurmountable.Somepatches of old road he1'e andthemselves, to prove to us how allis comparative with usta see the preseQt Foad, would wonder how a carriagecouldhave way formerl)t;yet cardages did. Belgarde, andthe iml at remainas heretofore. In this respect the vieinityofSpain seemsto affect every thing ; and the process of improvemenfisaàimmoveableasthemountains themselves.Nature, an to the* How can it be otherwise?· Where is the mind that couhl remain insensible to such wonders tEminences, in alternation of matter granitic and calcareous l Mountains wi~h summits crownedwith horizont of calcareous matter 1 Add to· this, what may be reminded of agajn and again,thiseastern, on is schist ! COnl)cct with these a6tonishing features the diluvian remain~in the plains 0 Toulouse lWd Morocco. ..2u

i34 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH· FRANCE IN 1814.north at least, now teems with production. The valleys among themountains are irrigated; the cliffs are parapeted, to affordtenure forthe olive and vine; but the inn, as of yore, offers nothing in the· wllY offood, save the produceof the banks of Newfoundland. One or twoMoorish castIes crown the cliffs to the eastward toward the sea. Whatgranite is found here has not large crystals: indeed it is somewhat. atask to find any. Nothing but schist presents itself, except tover,.minute search, and then at the summit of the ravine.The white lupine is much cultivatedas anarticleoff

TORPOn. OP THE ELEMENTS.ment zone thus 15 the sea-IèveI; above that is the temperate one; ne.xtthe humid, where turf forms; above which is that of the glaciers, 01' thescene of contest between frost ,and thaws; and fina1fy, that of perpetuaIsnôw, which crownsall. 'Fhese are the seats where the principles whicih~gitate the wonderful atmosphere we breathe are hatched ~nd fostered,by which. itisneverpermitted to stagnate.. One day these maybeunderstoodmore to tbebottom thanthey are at present. What theeffect of a torpor of the clements ll~ight he, the instance of wha,t ()ccllrred.pre~ious.to admiral's Byng'saction in the Mediterranean hints.:i4\.~allJi.l;!p~e~!ailedforthree weeks, and the sea became almost mortally~.f.')ns~iV!~~é.t() ~h~smen. 'Fhewater of thi& sea, it Ï:s true, is not 50 salt as,th[t:tQi

,SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.a wlJole-the general pervasion of an imprêssion~Thusitis, from thespirit of enterpri~e down to such paltry impulses as pride an~ vanity.AIl these in individual breasts lead to confusion or rupture in the state.But let these sentiments be applied nationally, and Hwy constitute thestrength of the commonwealth. Monarchy seems to haveproduc~clthis effect in France. National pride may be both dated andderivedfrom it; and Louis XIV. brought it to itsc1imax.!thas relnain~dthrough aIl those convulsions which s4bverted every tbing.else,and islikely to remain to saVe the nation fr()J'lawllateverrwin me'tl/~IC?e.sIt is difficult to bring thosewho feel no national sentimelltin thei~/O"''ll minds, orwho view the country of which they eat the breadwithcontempt or hatred, fear or malignity, ta ascribe anytruthor ettc~ctthis sentiment of national 10\'e: but sach persqns wiU he freqQentl.Yout in thcir calculations ofjudging qf others by themselves. And ho\voften is man thus mistakenl 'for, in faet, what other cnte/l'LOPto judge by? what scale or sounding line is he to Il;leal:lUre otherssave his own?l'rance, as observed, owes itsconsolidation toc tbe llCfl~Sein this way, by the nationality which the ambition of Loui~'XIV.in;.8pired and diffused.Flow different the conduct of the Bourbon dyna8tyin l'rance and in Spain.l and the effects have cbeenprecisely accordingly.l.et a J:'renchman he what he will, or where he win, Franceis the object of his heart; and much erroneousjudgementarises fn)mthe disposition to think of him otherwise, or that he çan be~nythingbutwhat he i5 in .this respect.J:'rance was once frittered into subdivisions,as Spain still lS, and distracted hylqça.1 Ïllterçstsand eonte~dingpo]i.tics; but the lustre of the reignpublic mind, enabling it 10 bear aIltuting one grç.at bond ofptlblic .:S(;:ll"ljJl.lll~~yL.a nationality to theandultimately consti-:-

P·OLITICAL REFLECTION.Fr~nee :w'élS long a félyourite idea of charlatanerie.. sheente17ed the Iists against Europe at large, andhas.felt h.~r power ever sinee. The events of those days haveneverHlade their.tJ>u~ iOlpression on mankind. COOl pare her internaI sit'!Z1a..'[h.~vl~epThis mountainous tract, with the intete,stipg objeet$ it pre:se-nted,wascl1oughtoexeite the inquisitive spiritinthelll0st torpid l~lÏnd.the church and the fermier-general divided the l'eve­them-and now.hestÇlt~hetweenConpastnegleets, a.nd opiBbrtunity a second timellever have hoped forgiveness.A variety of cireumwhichwas one of predominating importance,aIl these hopefulspeculations, and imposed therelinquishingagai~a prosp;~~~(i~l1tieipated with so muchinvestigation of this. tract of the earth must be left forIt isindeed neeessary to.~arn~uçh as feel inclillcd to thetllat they must not attempt it before the middle of April.'Flleweathe.ri$(!~~t~Il.tiJthat period sufficientlysettled; winter has notduly subsided

i38 SECOND JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.that wonder of nature, the mountain of salt. The communication withthe Peninsula from Prats de Molto in that direction, namely south.west,is by Camprodon.Villefranche is in the district of Prades: and the month of Maywould probably suit the investigator of nature hest, in point of timeand place, to follow his heloved pursuits, which hyaU accounts.hereis wherewith amply to reward.May the fiend of Politics never he conjureçl up to molest him in hiaunoffençling occupation!

ITINERARY THROUGH FRANCE IN 1814.No. 1.•Belgarde, on the Frontier ofSpain, to Toulouse, on the Garonne.BELGAR:QE.BOULON.PERPIGNAN. No post-horses prior to Perpignan. Honest Calciseros.SALEES. Rocky. Cultivation has not V'entured on the hills here.Salees is on the fiat. !ts ancient câstle a matter of interest.FITON.SIGEAN. Observe the once great lake of La Marseillette, now drained,tilled, and planted.NARBONNE. (Line to the Rhone from Narbonne.) Nissan, Bezierson tberiver Orbe, the beautiful village of La Beguede Jordy­Meze. At Meze thèroad branches off to Cette: the other branchcontinuesby Nismes to the Bhone.CRUSCADES.Moux.:BARBEIRA.CARCASSONNE. On the Aude.ALZONNE.VILLEPINTE. Fifteen considerable towns counted insight.

~40 ITINERARY ..CASTELNA UDA RA Y.V ILLEFRANCHF.Beauty of its reservoir, on a stnl'lmifleveI.BUZIEGE. In the plain here, the proof patche$ of the diluviatedstratum.C.4,STENET. Mounds on elevatiôns. The handy-workofmankind are observable occasionaIly throughOne thing is clearly noticeable in regard to these wnrk':!::their prevalence westward, in Europe, in pr(:}te:réprcédirection.TOULOUSE. Bere, by th~ junction of the waters of the Cevennes andthe Qaronne, i8 for~~€fthe most 'important inland communicatiellin Europe, that ofth~Fl\fediterranea~

•

l'IlhNERARY. 241sively. Som~ (.>,f the satisfaction in the voy~ge depends on the state ofas IUekvery dry season the navigation has obstructions that do"(...~,~,"'J~'U mttJ~ avou\I'able ones. But, generally speaking, the volumera1?le; an,d the descent not being by any mean~ soRholle, i~. oy 50 muchthe more agreeable, for dunf(IIuestion.fhisway perfo:rnl~d;îî~êighty miles.DESCENT OF THE GAtle,'so little productive; the line ofk, being onlyquaUy slight se•. 'J'he fieldfor about halE the price of landit,fQrafa-mily. :l3Y posts, aboutll":ERDUN.-On leftbabk.River TAR N.-Junetion with the Garonne. The connexion of inlandnavigation had great obstacles to surmount here; bnt aIl i8, they say,nO\v effected.RPETIT BUISl.A J\iAGISTEAG.EN.~J3elovillage.halting-place A small village.the Duke de Grillon, and below thatlargealms-howindows in e~ch front; th~ honour of2 I

which (it is now 111de Zaspes.ITINERARY.the progress of huilding) is ascribed to MonsieurTORNAIN.-A considerable town anciently fortified. Lithôlog.r,sandstone.ST. GENEISSE.-A beautiful village.about the width of the Thames at London bridge.MA RMANDE.-The secondA chateau on the left.The river ishere appa;:r.e.tJltlvnight's halting-place.·LARIOL.-A pretty town on the right bank, withprodigiousscâle nowPOVERoN:--Here vineof white crops.LANGou.-A considet~hle to\vn .on theleft bank, with Macail opposite,twenty miles abové0:.~:.~~rdé~J.l*•. Tide rises to this.CAST RE.-The third nig~Vs halting:place~ Adver.tencenow for navigation to avail}~its~lf ofthe tide,~o which hoursform. rrhis is five hoursv~~~~e~~9nl Bouf(l~aux; twelvewhich shipping come. Ca~tr~§ist~le last intermediatehaItithe voyag~ to Bourd~aûx. It i~:'frel1l~rkablyc1ean;andtlimodations show tha1 it has been freq.uéî1ted. by tho~e~hoknewwhatgood things were, and were willing to payaccordinglY'}i Thé river isnoW magnificent.Its banks are chiefly under copse, fqrtheéôôpet~geof Bourdeaux, to the main trade whereof aIl in its vicinity o'Wes thecomplexion it bears.The lithology of the tracts adjacent to the Garonne, throughout itscourse, presents calcareous matter and sand-stone; the former cbieflyon the right bank, the latter principally aI! the left. Eachpreservesits characteristic features; the former in· ~ridnal

niaIity of the situation here.EngIish elm.ITINERARY. 243For which reason among them we see theThe north bank has two hard lines of chalk stratum, oneof which terminates at the junction of the Tarn.These stmta bothdip (but very oblique]y) eash\"ard. Such is the general outline.The bed of the Garonl}e is gran uhble. Its banks are more beautifulthan those of the Rhone .;its superior buildings far more majesticin their ruins; its rustic ones far more picturesque: tbey are, indeed,with their projecting or receding balc . and corridors, their extendedeaves and roofs, and in aIl their concomitants, the very perfection ofheauty in rural arcbitecture. parish churches, however, ornamentthe scene: herein, may justly boast a decided superiority.To say the truth, ch h sare, although they mayhere have a hàndsome tower, ey hav }arable to us in theway of steeples. Such was the cas d route to Toulouse,which town presents matter or' considerable terest in this way in itstower of seven stages to heaven.; of Oriental origin of idea.But hereby the Garonne the landscape's onIy fault is its peculiar destitution ofthis inestimable ornament of a country.One general observation in regard to rivers must strike the traveller'smind. The Niger, the Guadalquiver, the Tagus, the Garonne, aIl runfrom east to west. AH coincide in another leading feature, namely,that their 110rth banks are higher than· their south; that on the former8trata protrude, while on the latter the soil is alluvial, and in the firstdegree; sand.Bere, then, is presented an important feature of theglobe. The head of the Garonne is among the' summits of the Pyrenees:this accounts for its granite bed. M:eilhan is sited on theextremity of a sand-stone bluff ledge: such also scems Obillard, whichwas passed near nighpresenting geological studies and wonders!2 l 2seems the country of this globe for·

ITJNERA'RY.ITI N ERARY, No. III.Bourdeau,v to Parz·s.-,c' Bourd~aîex,a1}dto the nO'l't/e of it.AFTER passing the Garonne, the Dordôgne i8 crossed on à pont volant.The current of tide setting up the river is at the rate bf three miles pl:rhour. Hence m~ be judged thehen~~t~whichits n:~igrtiôrîtp~eS~lîts,as ~ fork of the Garonne. Theequilibrium of impulse i5 of great inlportancein this branell ofdisadvantage is very rnaterialon the Rhone.Soil white, pOOl', free-stone on a blue-el~~erj~ubstratum.Timber, sallow; fences, white-thorn and quince in aIl thébeàutéô'l1sgay livery of spring.Produce, grass andthe height of our hop-pales.Stock, large cattle.InTillage, indifferent; labour harq,Some cornmon tracts tending to 111001',in this westerq, c1imate.DOleal. but the poles Dot ofFrance they al'e staked.prove humidityTimber, fil'. Produce, rye, Indian corn. Müth rib-grâss in the/naturaIgreen-sward. Deciduous oak c10thes thehiff~i\illlarge growth,obviously of two distinct kinds, one foliating befirethe other, being now(April 5th) in leaf. I;'ine chesnut trces, wainut trees, Chester poplars,and timber sallow, aIl ()f great growth.Proceeding northwards the soil improves.Level of Coù11try, high.Borses pOw'erful; t\Vobreeàs, a roan and a chesnut.. MONTLIEU.-Soil quartzose. The vegeta'Plê'\sfratil.îm, when Cornesto lie on quartz, does ll{)t blend with lhis rf-'TI'Hr"I'U"V S'ltltil~tatlCl~;

ITINERARY. 245:which its Jight atmospherical conformation will Dot combine; and itremains too vegetable for fructification.Hitherto the taller heath onlypreva.ils; very little red heath being seen, scantily scattered. The~w~terlies very near the surface, and is bad.Tillage is by the wheelh~Herè is,ihowever, in :PI'ance aIl the variety in :which this impl.~.Ulientcan be forrned to effect. Produce, beans.\-I.CI,"':aN.L> "'UAUX. Here the country is more champaign. Very fiparish churches in this route.T'LACQUnONNE.-.Hedges neatly clipped; and correspondent circum­~t~p.ces indica.te an improved spirit of agriculture.AN~\{)ui{.:EME.:-Eigbteenposts and a half.For them see Post-bookof the )lear; JOl'al~h{)ugh distance cannot alter, the book of the curt!entye~ristheOnlJ authority.This town 18 the Chester of France. lt is on river Charente;8..~ild..l:1nd sn1ooth-water currentmeanderingînead6w.a fiat tract ofThe bouses on its banksal'e of ancient architecture, withsharp-point~d roofs, and dormant :windows of cut stone, in the townconstituting a curions and picturesque mass of buildings, and mostp~~:Ç\~J.ngeItlbE~lh:shrnents where detached and seattered in the vieinit)'.are round towers, machicolated, battlemented, andstock of the moreeXtended chateau.131o$sorn nowc1

~46 ITINERARY.POIT rER s.-Sixteen posts and three q uarters.Europe has thu~On the river Vienne.more rivers than one of this name: the radicals oflanguage should be dived into, .here.It l'uns to the Loire, markinganew level of country. Peasantry aIl riding to market. The field ofbattle lS to the east of the town.Tbe site of this place is most bc}J,utifuI:the approach from the south enfilades the town and theri~l!r;and the cathedral standing at right angles therewith, crosses the ;cye.AU that the fancy and benignity of nature, ~ided by the Iucky handofman (for this was aIl Iuck) could combine,here presents itselffof jointeffect.CHATELHERAULT.-}'ive posts.How little of the spirit of trade Basyet pervaded France! Here is a hardware or steel manufactory. ThepOOl' retailers (however objects of commiseration), the workers in. thearticle, can onlysiDe compared for obstreperous obtrusiveness to thepersecutors of our illustrious Webb, in England. Buta' travellerhereis by no means 'bound to lay in athtiql1al stockof merit to entitle hiPlto the like, or enable him to b~arthe horiourwith tneekness, wheninflicted.Face of country: ricn trieado flSll1gwooded grassy hills ; ,bold free.stone This lasfis a prerlorpinatingfeature of these tracts.Danish forts are freq uently observe

ITINERARY.~al?]es of town.structure, imbosomed in loftyand luxuriant fowindingstreets showing their diversified objects beneath it, andthe malignity of uniformity at defiance; a full but slow-flowing. g through richly-timbered meadows interspersed by farmoteal.lxàt a distance on their yerge, with pinnacledturrets. The nearer objects re'flected in sheets of water,ce spring the rugged piers of dilapidated bridges. A bold elevatede-ground thickly foliaged with' orchards now in full bloorn, andwhole sickle-shaped sweep of the river is taken to the difhills in the back-ground, through an aperture whereof itit until its traverses merge in the indistinctness of the linesof the horizon deeply tinged stern sun, altogether cornpIeteone of the most perfectIy bthe face of Nature herean eye.an inferiQr breed, dinlinutive andairy. Hère are ind'eed evidentIyvery weIl be rnaintained, eachachi~~>;~~fuliar sèrvice to man.farnî~it1g

~48 ITfully adequate to thei1' object.The housesi5 making rapid strides, in .its more usefulnecessity, whether of cotton or of wooUen.TouR,s.-Two posts and a half.are slated.~Ianufactnreline, in articles .of primarJThe river LOIRE.-'The whole of France from the Garonne toLoire may be considered a wooded tract.and felt as depicted by the poets.'Here, indeed, springîs~!.!qImagination cannot ex(~eedluxuriance of the meadows, or the richness of their dairy-produce.Dilapidation is the best friend the painter haêto.hisbaçk.books would be in requisitioll at thesight of the shattered arches, theirsegments remaining in theriver4tbeirintersections undef:the diffs;where indeed, it must be admitted, the pick-axe of destrUt"1tion hasbeen wielded with taste. Sandy bed.s.and green islands, too, in theriver, above theheads of the gay poplars; whereof the massive anddingy structureSôf the tbwn, o~

T1NER'ARY~lS assuredly one o~ the legitimate oceupa't1ons orthe trâveller.WC1:e he to rely implieitly on the information ohligingly conveyed in~ne instanee of the kincr! at this place, he would be iilclîned' to think:Jfedea~s 'kett1e no fable•. The commUJvcation to- the public is thi8:fière people are made young again.'" Attracted:t(Ofi(:ourse;, bythis· most noveI: and inviting information,- he on furtheI'iJntiûiry finds tbât it proceeds from..--a barbetfs sbop !FAirs.-Twelve posts.lteêapituL:ttibn.-Belgard"e to Toulouse,.Toulouse to Bourdeaux,. 3ô.*130ûtdeaux to Paris, 80,r.J;otal, 114&32 posts-_VOL. Il.2K

A P PEN DIX.VOL. 1. Page 101.Observations upon a picture called La Madonna or Nuestro Senora del Pez *, malleby Mr. Henry, an hish gentleman, who 'Oisited the Escurial in the year 1754 ..'qC~f$'ioned by the King's painter (Signol' Amiconi) having said it was not a pictl~reWRqfael [hbino.W~iOSOEV:j;R wishestoiorm a correct judgement of a picture, should above all thing~ascertainprecisely the purport of it,; for an historical painting is éssentiaIly a representation;and for any one precipitately to enter upon the dep~eciation or praise of aportrait, without knowing what reselPblaJ+l9~it>l>,ears to its origiJ+lal, is nothing betteythan an aLsurd temerity.But a;s portraits vary infinitely, according to the points of vieW in which they aretaken; so one and the. same object will appear very different, according to the momentof time which is seizedfor committing it to canvass. As for example: The resnrrection,of Lazarus, at theinstant Christ cOlmnands hilJ:l to rise from the sepulchre, willhe in many circumstances the direct reverse of that same resurrection considered atthe point of time immediately following. In the first case, in regard to the spectators,a appear disposed to helieve in the. miracle about to be performed: manywill resu1.t, and many more willmock at and ridicule the attempt of outSaviour.int~~~~econd stag~.ofth~. procedure,. the most will appear conmnced,few will hesitate, aJ+ld a very small numher indeed. appear incredulous. Hope, feal",suspicion, gqubt,. disbelie(, wiU he the l)redominatlng passions of aIl in the, first act;,astonishrnent, joy, convictiOJ+l,anda confusedagitation, succeed to them in the second.When the intention ofthecal.1Vass is alllbiguous or!Jdefective, inthis case the imaginationis al\thotized to determine its pm'port, and supply the deficiencies : butindifficulties of thi8 ~l~tture, .itis requisite th.a..t the intention shou1d be ingrafted upouthe paintillg, arldnot the painting upon the intention. The purport or object once'il< This Ipasterpiece of that first of paintêrs, referred to in' page 101, appears in the present day tohave escapednotice. There remains, howev~~;?

:;A:PPENDJX.cascertained, it next followsto examine and see if the painter treated 1t judiciously or,not; that is, if he disposed the figures in the manner, order, and arrangement mostadvantageous. Ifhe did not,.Ît may.be said .that the artist took abad likeness; but ifihe selected it happily, this one perfectionl!(', rarely duly 3:ppreciated by many pretendecl,(;ognoscenti, and never by the 'ignorant, places him beyond aIl censure with those wh@-tmly understand the rules of the art. Tintoreto il? the mostdefective in this particu­~lar ; .he seems to have studiously seized the moment the most imprope1' that was pos­'sible; his heads are always mean and sordid, hisattitudes vulga1', and generally 1'idi;.culous. Ai) the principal part of .his works ·proves this, it is necessary to cite but&ll'eof them, and that is the washing of the feetin the' sacristia of the Escurial;În which,among other absurdities, he representsone o~the disciplesstpetchedout U}'Jntheground, whilst anotherdiseiple pulls off 'bis stocking. .In the composition dfapicture three tliings are prinCipally to be attended taPirst, thltt the main design 'Of it 5hould be the most conspicuous object in it; thatis;thatthe figures 5hould be sodisposed tha! the'eye 'may distinguish, at the tirst glance,who are the persons interested ln the transaction representecl, and who a1'enot.Otherwise theeomposition will be confused,and the eye, embarrassed, willtemâinin doubtful suspense: for, as each figure or group attracts it equally, it cannât -filldany p1'edomllfating objectwhereon to fix itself and l'est. Few artists have composedCOFFeCtly-; even Rafael has his fauIts; for in his famous pictu1'e of the T1'ànstigurationh~representstwo actionswhich eqmilly attract theattention,in'so muclt that ifdoesnbtknow where te fix: itself, whether on the miracleabove, :or,oa the disciplesàsdthe lumrtic·at the·foot 6f the -mountain.The·second p6intwhichis to be attended to·în a pictureis, f1lat fnere beapérfec'tiproprietY'ln the 'CODtlrast : ,that is to say, that the figures or groups have'little resetnblancetoeaéh·other, 'either in attitude or countenance, posture or dress. The ceiJinrrt!I,oftheprineipal choir of the Escurial is a proofof whati say; for, from wantof this due~nvast, there ratlier appears to b~ represented a regiment of m!1itia drawn up inrank.andfile, than a-chorus of angèls andIDIessed spiritssingiag the praisesof thêir'Creator.'Finany, :it;is neceS'saJ'y that all'the figures or grouI?sbe duly poized'one against the.other; ·-else one side·of the'picttlre willpreponderate, which must offendthe eyè. ThisFUie extendsitself equally to portraits; for equilibrium,is as necessary,in a singlefigure as in a·group. Count Duke' C9livarez on horseback is a 'modelof this speCies ofperfection, and appear:5 to me ·prefcrabletoanywork[eyer saw6f thekindt."*' The judicious selection of the point of time.t A famous. picture of Velas9.ue~1 in the.possessi~~,'~f .the kin.B1 and ..npw,Jupntl 9ftbehalIs.of JlJepace-of Madrit.

'Many must 'besutprisedat the anachronisms or ineonsistenèie.swliiéh are seen in·some pictures: such as The marriage of St. Katharine with the "·infant Jesus; St. An~~thony, St..Ignatius, and many others, with the blessed infant in their arms: but.these,ItlOwever, are not strictly .anachr:onisms, but rather pious representations of gmces.which it was the holy, will toconfer on eertain favomed persons.With aH this, however, certain it is that réal and palpable anachronisms do appeatin somepaintings ;sometimesarising.fr0lU. thecaprice.oftàe artists, sometimes from~the ignorance or bad taste of those who employed tham, When 1 first· saw in theifamous pictul'eof The Transfiguration, .by .Rafael, the twoFranciscan friars on thesummit of Mount Tabor, nearly side by side with our Saviour, Meses, and Elia!, itoccasioned meu@ little suvprise; a,nd 1 could notconceive how so enormous an-absurdityc0uld,hav.e been committed by one of the ierudition and truly delicate tastei(}f Rafael;untU riLrecotlected that this picture was .painted .by mm ,in compliance with'theap.pli~ationofacommunity of Capucins *-.Du ;.P.iles, .in.·his Â.rtof iPainting, reduces the science to four parts; 'composition,,Atrrangement,'colouring, and expressien. This division of.his is defective; for in iit is~anting'grace;.a feature ·infinitely moreesscI).tÎal togood .painting thanâny:.of thosc''"(hich he mentions. Grace, as a quality of the painter's pencil, is :the faculty of..qqnveyiI).g to,oriinspiring'his 'figures with,an air ofdignity and ~èpose,i~suchmannerthatit appears'natural to and inherel1t in them, and not aneffect of the ingenuity afthe.n,painter. This admirable talent 'is,what places .Rafael above atl the painters thatBver e»isted. Orac.e;/.in Rafael, ,is an ,inherentquality: :in .other paintersj the meteeffect of chance. 86me 'have drawn ascarl'ectly.; others have composedwithequalljudgement; have excelled him in colouring; but no·one ever 'equalledhiI).).iI).gJlace.reason why the pictures of Rafael please the more they~tl,l~t(li~ ;~l1'.Jî)judge$ {eel themselves compelled to dwell upon them every timewjthaddi~ona.l;mil1utene$sof ;in~es'tigation,andquitthem every time with iJlcreâsesleb~et.)lt i$ neceasary ta'observe here)that grace mustnot 'heconfounded withelegance.For grace .consists, as has been already obser~ed, in dignityand rep?se: and Elegancecon$ists in delicacy àlld ,repose. One lS noble, t4e other soft. Many prooters ha\'esucceeded inthis latterperfecÛon, but ,Guido, l tbink, beyood themalL CorreggioQnitedthem ina .particulardegree. His attitudes ar:e usually graceful; oot his head~base; plebeianor.vile,rarelypossess that dignity which constitutes what we caU aDoble.air. Thus.inhi-sSchoolof Love, which is in the possession of·'the Duke of'.''''' 'Fhisstatement'is llOtstrïliltlycol'l'eet j :Duttheanachronillm 18 quite as gros! ll8 Ml'. Henry're,presem..iitJwre..

254 A.PPENUIX.'Alba, the attituàe of his Venus is gracefulness itself; but the head, alth~pgh: beautifuIbeyond expression, is but a mere eopy of nature.,Sorne people.betake tbemselves to the examinatiol1of a pieturewith no other obJectt11an to find out its defects; as if the whole skillof eritieism.in this art eonsistedinmaking sueh deteetions. Consequently, one frequently hears sueh personsexc1a,i'}l}l," How awkwardly that leg is extended l'' then, "That is a club-foot! As to thisarm,it appears as if it belonged to Arta,xerxes Longimanus!" and other observations ·ofequal taste and judgement, whereby,. with excessive levity, they ceosure .the pictureand the artist. But snch critics ought to recollect three things :first, that it iSmllChlnore easy .to diseover the defects than the, beauties of a.paintiog;· foreverYPaintinghas its faults; but those whÎ

APP,ENDIX.()'l'l~ht to have been both a Roman and Lombard, or ,of the sehools of Rome and Mi­Janat one and the same time.As "Fdibiell, Fresnoy,' and Du Piles have' laid clown very fuHy the mIes and preceptsofpainting, l refer to their works, wherein the readermay satisfy his CUl10sityupon ihis subject; and wiil proeeed toexamine partlyaccording to the mIes establishedhy these masters, •andpartly ,by,thosehere laiddown, a picture in the Escurial (themerit,whereof l eanhot better express th31n by saying that it is a masterpieee of RafaelUrbino). This picture, whieh is about eight feet in height, is known to the world bythe name of ,La Madonna deI Pez, or Our Lady pf the Fish.Vassari tells us thatRafael paintedthispicture at thedesire of a community of religiousbrethrenin Naples. The instruetionshe received probably were, tbat heshould-paint apiece, wherein should be represented the following personages; namely, ourSl1\;viour lesusGlllistr the blessed Virgin his mother, St. GeronÎ1nus, the archange! Raiael,

ltPPENutX.,ready to tom dver, and· only waits until the infant removes his arm,wHÎch lie fias,with childish inadvertence, cast across the book. Thus we see that the entirepieceiscomposed of one principal, and'two minor or subaltern a'étions; or, as the paintersexpress it, ofone action and two accidents; ThÇ!e are; the anxiety, of the infantfor'the fish; and the silent attention wherewith St. Geronimus awaits the removal ofthe'fufant's arm from the book, in order to turn over the leaf. These accidents are not'only distinct in themselves, but so inferi~r to the principal action that they·· by .no'mE:;ans blend or interfere with it: on the contrary, they serve to relieve the eye, âfldgive repose to the attention exhausted by examihation of the principal action. Thisand the 1Ïrst accident areextremely natural< and obvious: but the mannerofitttr6dùeingorcomoihihg St. Gèronimus with the other figures, by casting the arIri:'6fthe'infârtt:across his book, was a thought truly worthyof this· greât Tillinter; for, entirely detachedJ&om the other figures; hewould have been one t60 many,as being a; useless pel':"sonage; Çtnd if he·had represented him; as many·painters probably would, intercedingon the behalf of Tobias, he would'have beenbne equally unnècessary, and basides:obtrusive:1 do not recollect to Bave ever seen anypH:~ce wlierein were moreaccllra.telY preservedthélaws orperfect contrast. There are not throughout it My two points which resembleeach other :-.the infant appears to be of the a.ge ofone year; Tobias of ten or twelve ~the angel of fifieen; the Vil'gin from eighteen to twenty; St. Geronimus upwards ofseventy; The infant is endeavouring to raise himself upon his fcet : Tobias iB uponhisknees; the angel 18 standing; tlie··Virgih seated; and St. Géronimus with·hisIDees bent. The face ofthe infant is tmee quarter: thatof Tobili:sanexactpr6fiJe;that'ofthe angel forèshortened"; that ofthe VîrginalnlÛst ft:Il1';ând thât of'St.6eronimussomething morethao· a profile~The hair of theiMant is a Bright cliesnut; that of Tobias incUning to red'; meangel's brown; the Virgin's somewhat more darkthan that of the angel; St. Gerofiimusis gray :-'in one word, the piece is diversified in the mo~t pleasing mânner ihatcan be imagined. The equilibrium, as weIl of the whole as'of the component pl:U'ts, isas perfect as the contrast, and ·managed ·with exquisite-art and attention;· rartiéularlyto be noticed in the body of the angel, which is a perfeet balance.~ ...) ... " iAs the paioter had' no place for the lion il!< , of St. Geronirnus; and' kho\ving thatwithout tuis, or· sorne similar coubterpoizo, St. Gèronimuswould he aninadequatebalance for the ange} and Tobias, heplaced th'e infant on the léftàrm of the Virgin's• How it should have escaped so accurate an observerasMr. Henryit is impossible to conceive: buttrueit is, tne lion is introdiIcedin the piéture, as may he seen in theengraving given 15~_r.'1\fMSo,A""er;y: fine engravingcof tItis p;icture was once executed,and-is.yet probaWy. extallt. "

APPENDJX.with only one foot rested on his mother's lap, preserving thus the exact equi­:libril.lfrrjand addingat the same time beauty to the picture. H;aving thus explainedRafa.el1s:plan for this picture, l proceed to describe to the lovers of the art the mannerin :which' he has executed Ît.This will be done by investigating the different parts ofwhichiti:scomposed; thatis tosay, drawing, colouring, and expression.As to thedrawing, dl' ou~line,itis the inost beautiful by a greatdeal that ever 1 saw.AlFthe heaûsMedignified and ma:jestic, except that of Tobias:; which the painter has.htiinbled purposely, and fora l'eason which we will mention in its properplace. TheVil'gin's .head is'perfectly Greek; :that of the angel a .mixture of antique and natural,whichthe painter has brought tothe highest degree of perfection. The oval of theVirgin's face, &nd the outlines ofthe neck of St. Geronimus, are exquisitely beautiful,anddifliclilt beyonû what dan be conceived in point of execution; the drawing of theinfant Jesus, correct and delicate : in one word, the whole of the del'igning of this pic.ture'lll~ybe;pronouneed.per:feetion itself: for, as to the rightleg of Tobias, whichis theonlytlling 1 everheard.objec~edtojn this pictme, ifthe forced position in wrnch he isbe not a sufficient answer, '1 saythat it is no more' than a slight inadvertence ofthepainter's, which .basa ç1aim tobeoverlooked, according to the rule of Horace, as ap-. plicable to painting as· to poetry.Ai to thecolouring, it isjn the lastandbest sryleof Rafael, with this singular ex­.cellence, that there is not in thewhole painting one simple or truc colour strictly so'called :as for instance, of t11.ree different greens whic11. ,ve see in it, two in the dressof the Virgin, and one in the cm'tain be11.ind her, none is perfectly grass- 1101' true sea­:green. The white of her dress, as well as that of the wings of the ange!, are butwhiteisit; the clothing of St. Gerouirnus 18 l'ed, but not pure scarlet; and final1y, asobserved, there is not throughout the picture one primitive colour: notwithstanding.whic11., •.••~~.~ ..• ~~i~~X11.~~~xerci~ed~is art ,yi~h snch. exquisite taste andjudgement, thatwhat wOlll(1havebeensuflicien~jJlthe h&nds .. of any other to have ruin(:?d, or at l(lasty.ery materially irijured the picture, hasproduced, in those of Rafael, a softness~nddelicacy. alroostequalling those 'of Correggio. If my reader wishes to be convinced~p.on thit> hl1ad, let11.iQ} cast hiseyes lipon the picture to the right, the Apotheosis ofCharles the Fifth, by Titian; a very fine thing certainly, but w11.ich, by reason of theinnumerablel~ure tù~ts w11.id~ it contains, a})pears harsh and crude by the side of La1\1à:dmma.As to w11.at regards expression, the subject of this picture admits of very littIe,. asshow heraafter. The angel speaking is, in strictness, the only persan'ondevolves to show muèh; and, in consequence, he is the most expressive figuresaw: not even excepting the father of the lunatic at the foot of the mÛlintain,ln famous picture of the Transfiguration. True it is, Tobias expresses a reverentialVO.L. II.2 L

APPENDIX.fear, like oneastonished or overwhelmed withawe; lmt this, though admirably de..pictured, i5 but a passion of inferiof stamp, which the painter introduced solelyforthepurposeof animating the figure, and heightening the relief of that of the angê1sby thecontrast.Finally, let us come to taking a general idea, or view, of this work, and noting in itthose perfections and beauties which arise out of the harmony of its parts. But assailors, in making their reckonings of the way made by a ship,take into'"their accounttides, currents, and tacks; so, in order that our reader may see ...thatwe ex:amine with,.out partiality, and with the utmost strictness, thiE? picture, it ls necessary,togetber withits merits, to point out the difficulties the painter hadto surmount. The first.is in thesubject; which, in addition to heing full of inconsistencyas we befo1760osètVled,istibyno means picturesque. A subject, in order to be picturesque, .should be a realobject,which, as obvious to sight, can be representeQ. by colours; but the subject of thisMadonna is a conversation, which is matter for theear, an organ just as capable ofconveying an idea of what may be done in colours, as the sight is ofthe operation ofsounds; so that, although the painter selected the most prorel' moment that couldpossibly be chosen, still his subject in reality possessesno more animation than whatbelongs to what the painters calI stililife. AU Rafael could intend, or endeavour 10express, was, how the company looked. while the angel spoke to the Virgin.8econdly, The cal'dinal's habit in which St. Geronimus is c1othed,)s. neither antique,picturesque, nor pleasing. Rafael did aIl he couldto mitigate the glare of that mass ofred, in order to prevent it from enfeebling anci dimming the other colours, anddrawingthe eye solely upon itself. It cannot be denied that he has succeeded in the main,but the Gothie form of the habit unavoidably remainedunimprovahl~"forminganinconsistency in the drapery of the painting whicn Rafael wouM neyerhave fallen intoif there nad been any means of eseaping it.Thirdly comes the fish; ,vhich, aceording to the idea given to us of it by the HoLyScriptures, was at least eight feet in length, a thing out of aU proportion, and ex:ceedingthe dimensions of tne picture itself: but Rafael, with eq"!lal judgement .and holdness,extricated himself from this difficulty by reducing it to a proportionable size. Theseare the difficulties which it appears to me Rafael had to surmount. 1 say the tirstand principal, but not the only ones, because more might be pointedout;. but,as theselast are derived from tne others"I willleave to the ingenuity of connoisseurs. the meritof. discovering them; and concIude my observations by notingsome of those g~acesand master-strokes wbien distinguish Rafael beyond aU paintera, and nis performance,La Madonna deI Pez, beyo d aIlpietures.,W'0 WThe attitude of the Virgin is gracefulness itself. The infant,. anxious tofish, springs forward as before mentioned. This movement i5 SQ sudden, that he

APPENDIX. 259the risk of falling from the arm of the chair: to prevent this, his mother, without. int~rruptingthe angel, or taking her eyes off Tobias, leans gently forward, pressing berright hand against her cbild's breast, to retain him during this inclination of her body:the right side of the head of the holy infant nearly touches the left cheek of his affectiQ.J:la,tymQ.ther,. '\!h}ch givesto. her beautifulcountenance a heavenly air of tenderness,which ma.y be imagined, butcanllOt be expressed by words ;causing atthe same.timeagentle tu.rn.inhermost beautiful neck, that in delicacy exceeds, beyond aH compa­!5}sQ.n, anythingJ. have ever seen, and which would be misapplied in any neck what­Socyer save that of the mother. of Jesus.'rhe,angel and Tobias are also per(ect in their respective characters, and form aJUosti;leautiful contrast. .Tbe head. of the angel is noble; his figure full ofgraee, and bis attitudeeasy. The head of Tobias is rustic, his person coarse, his attitude awkwal"d andclumsy. In the .lând countenanc.e of the angel we see.beaming forth innocence, beneyolYIl~e,and co~pa,~~ion; in that of Tobias are respect, fear, and bashfulness. Thea.~gel'L.cOIlsciclUsofhis.'dignity, makes bis resquest with a confidence tbat it will heimmediately granted; whilst Tobias, sensible ofhis own unwortbiness, tremblestboughanangel be his adyocate. But nothing in the wholepiece more completelyshows thejudgelnent of tbe painter in its most consummate degree, than his having omitted thedog of Tobias, which, from his having been mentioned twice in the Scriptures, mightbec considered his attribute, as the keys are to St. Peter, and the book and sword toSt. Paul; for which reason, by the strictrules of the art, heought to have been introduced:but a greatgerius, a,S ourfirst of critics and of poets, Pope, says, occasionallybreaks through rules, gloriously soaring to the commission of errors which critics willBot dare to censure or .amend; and if ever there was a man who might venture tocQ.mmit suell a fauIt, that man was Rafael.Inthefirstptllce, every domestic anima,l, as a household object, belongs to commonol".loWlif~, an~ js,.a,s.su.~~!?Lml1Vort~y of soexalted Il picture as that of Our Lady, LaMaÇ\onna deI Pez. The second thh~g is, that according ta. the position of the figures,theÇ\og must necessarily have been painted in the foreground, the mosteminent andconspicuQus place. Andfinally, the introduction of the dûg would have troubled theaction in suçh a manner" that Rafae1must either have broken the rule, or spoiled hispicture.If w~ were ta cxtend our observations to point out every object of ~race and beautyin t~spictnr§, we shonld never corne to an end; for there is not a tauch in it that ispot .(l..~§IlUty:.theuniformity of the light, the foot of the Vitgin, the obliquity of herveil, the attitude of the angel, the posture of his body, maintained by the extensionof hisWings,tlie attitude of his right foot,as weIl as that of the left arm of Tobias, thegreat taste which isconspicuous in the drapery ;-1 say, that to examine or enter into.2L.2

960 - APP,ENDIX.a detail of the perfections included under cach of these heads, wouldfiUaquire ofpaper, alld take more time and leisure than 1 possess. Therefore, contentingmyS'elfwithwhat 1 have already pointed out, 1 sha11 conclude byobservingingeneral,. thatevery touch of the pen~il is laid on with snch jndgell?-ent, every tint drawn withsnchconsummate skill, as cause this picture, notwithstanding the disadvantage under whiéhthe painter laboured, toexceed in beauty and in value 0.11 the works or thekind,takenindividua11y orcollectively, il) the Escurial.l am aware that there are in this vast collection many master-pieces of themQ§tillustrions and clas&ical painters; bnt 1 affirm withont.fearofcontradiction,thatthereis not one which can be compared to this admirable production, in whiche'Veryngure,ta appearance, speaks and thinks: in a word, it is themost valnal);les.articleiof./thekind that any prince npon earth possesses.APPENDIX, No.II.ME8TA.-.THE W00L STAPLE OF SPAIN.THIS term is misappli~d, for it signifies in its stl"Îct sense tillage produce. The firsttrace of the wool staple of Spain is distinguished towards the latter part or the reignof Don Alonzo, the last king of that name.Although Spain is said to have been celebratedJorherwo()l~anyyea.rsprev~bus tatho.t œra, yet Ihere is preponderating reason ta conc1ude tho.t the fine7woolled sheepshe at present possesses descend from a breed originally brought from England, bythe return of her mcrchantmen, or carracas as they were called, *.King Alonzo, as is said, imported the she~p called at presentin England:Mednot,ï! Spain IVlerinas, and properly 1\·larinas, which explains the senSe or derivation of thename, viz. the sheep brought from beyond the seo.. Alonzo diedAn. 1350; sa that thefi1'st importation of this breed of sheep into the Peninsula may be dated An. 1345.,.. Those who dissent {rom this opiniO'Il say that the English w06l is Ilot sufficiently 1jhe ta admit ofher breed .of sheep being identified with the Merinas; that the woolis of different qualities,exclûsiveç{filleness; that the Spanishis soft, thilt of England elastic; the former short, the latter long; and inthese qualities resembling the fleece of the orclinary breed ofSpain, as weil as i.!1 others, whereby ~heyare,they say, applicable ta the same uses: and they dcrive the last-mcntioned hreed from the Engl~4importation.t Meri:no, a plate in Spain.

APPEND1X.. ~61~he"11>'taguewhichdesotatedSpain in the middleofthe Jourteenth century, andcarr~ed ofFtwo..thirds of its inhabita.nts;. with the various. other causes of depopulationoperating in tha,t country,prepared the way for the extel1llion of its wool..staple ~1:ne8ta)by leaving the centre of the Peninsula one va:st waste for a sheep-walk.Vicinity qfSego'Via. :Ridge· ofmountains, which divides the two Castilles: Rio,.Frio, a yill~gethere. In these villages and theirneighbourhood the great sIa.eep-ownel/shave their shearing..houses. These buildings .usuaHy inc10se large couds,'of whichsome;areof the dimensions of six. hundred réet by four hUl1dred; with every accom·modation in.theupper.storyforlodgingthe master, his family, and the persons requisitefor theattendan~ on theflockatshearing-time, whichtakes about a month; therestof the year these~laces areleftin.care ofa servant, a.nd otherwise are unoccupieq.In Segovia isa co~npany, as it may be called, of storers (ricibidores), otherwise fa6tors,who being very conversant with the article, usually attend and give their advice andassistanceat the shearings, or in other words direct the whole process.~heaboveme:nti()ned'rieibid/')'res;'Lw.ool"storers ··and clothiers of Segovia, (admissironinto which body isobtainedby four yearsservice of apprenticeship), attend in andac,..cording to t~eirdue stations, in tile nurnber of to shearèrs, to roll andpack the fleeces, separatingtherefromthe COllrSI~;,·,jThe, fleeces when shorn are stored with great nicety, in piles, up to the roof ofthestorehouse.Thus the process of shearing is ,conduded undel' the eye ofthe master, by the factoror wool..storer, the shearers, the ricibidores, to whon} are added a quota of womenpickersto gather upthe 1008e wool; another of basket-'carriers to conect it; 1Jlorc,,!,cros,or boys with vessels of charcoal, to rub the galled sheep; and cc/zavinos,or wineservers1who 'go round with drink for the whole, each being allowed eighteen draughtsa-clay.· 1\f~th~seJ?~fso~~(~?~ ~iXi~~~(in~? sq~àds, under chiefs, to maintain order;,and the whole' furnishes(~iS~lfn~(of,in~nstry;reguf~fity,and festivity.A sheep is.allotted to every' ten, and two pound.sofbread to each' person for theday's diet. They begin to wOl'k ~t six in the morning, anclleave off at five in theevenmg. , .. ,. 'After sheal~ing, the sheep, are so susceptible of the weather, that a year rare1ypasses without the 10ss of ""hale flüçks from the early shearing, which, however, cannotbe clispensooiwith, on account of. the increasing heat of theseason, and loss ofwool ir! the Interim. ~ô obviatethese losses, 'forsome time after shearihg they onlylet them pasture in sight;· and indeed prefer t~eir being altogether without food, even'for s~veral~ays,. thah~neurthe(loss of awh~le flock.Theshearers endeavour to' eut as close as possible. There is much difference oftime occupied in the shearing each sheep. Someshearers will do it well in eight mi...

A·PPENDIX.nutes: but twelveewes, or eight wethers and rams, in the clay, axe eQllsid~reclsuffiçient.The difference is chiefly owing to the size of the animal, weight of.the. fleece, apd thetrouble the sheep gives.When shorn, they are marked and sorted. The skins of the sheep whiçh diedduring the preceding year are nowsheared, the skins having heen· wettea. anGl.placedon the con'Oe:r of a piece of timber.The flocks are kept separate, and guided by bell-wethers, thG" sheep knowing thesound of their own bell.If the weather is mild, they are turnedout to f('ed in. the day, al,)cl atll,ight the wallsof the buildings yield themshelter,: if the weather is bad, .they are hq~secl: '.' . In theopen plains about Segovia they suffer much during the first fe~.~,aYEl/q~.,thei~ ..flf(:>gressto the mountains; hut when once there, they have suffiGienèY ofshelter arnong the treesand bushes.Immediately as the shearing is finished, the wool is weighed by .scales and notby steelyards, which is not 80 exact. This is done uncler the direction of the faqtor,and according to his report of the weight. If the sale takes place immediately,ORe person attends on the part of the wo01-owne1', anq another on that of the purchaser,to note down the weight of the woo1. Onbein~ sold, it is immediately shiftedfrom the store of the one into that of the other, in Case, as above, that it is not firstcleaned, as, then, the sorting takes place at that operation.The sorting is the separation of the three kinds of wool of which each ,fleece consists,which is done with greatdexterity by the ricibidores; and itis aprocess in whichthe greatest care and skill are required, as thereondepends the rnen::antile credit ofthewool-grower. .They .part the wool on wooden frames, through whien the coarse and short falls, andtaking it up with both hands they divide it ac:cording to itsqualities. The breechingand wool of the legs 'is separated at the time of shearing, and is not included in thefleece. The first quality of wool is that of the loins and belly; the second, that of theneck and sides; and the third, that of the neck and shoulders. This separation requiresthe greatest skill and nicety. In the lamb's wool no distinction is made.The wool when divided is sold; some cleaned, others, not so: but the former ismore usually the case for exportation.Winterpasturage.-The tract allotted for this. cQnsists of Estremadllra, part of Andalusia,and La Mancha, on flCcount of their mildness of c1imate, and plenty of grassin winter.'Summerpastltrage.-·This consists of the mOUlltains ofLeon, Cuen~a,part of Arf,~gonand Castille, the verdure and humidity of w.bieh render thetn pe,culiarly appro~pl!îate for summer fe.eding.

APPENDIX.On artiwng at thèsummer pasture, the first business of the shepherd is to allot thesheep ta their respective tracts; Sldly, ta wean•. the lambs, separating· the ewes andrams. Sometimes this is done at the shearing-houses if the lambs are forward.Salt is giveQ them in small proportions, and every third day. A reason assigned i8'that the mountain herbageis not sa nutritive or so nitrous as that of the plains.The excellence of .the flock depends upon the judicious selection of the rams; andhere the sklll ofthe head shepherd is shawn. The principal points attended ta in thechoice of the rarn:are: that he should be of a good size, of a square set shape, hischest broadand bel1y rou,nd; as without these last shapes his. breed, especially theewes, would be dwindled, and not.fit for the purposc. His head should he prominentin the upper part, and fine or fiat towards the nase. He should not be speckled: heshould be white, and no way foxy in colour, save and except behind the left shoulder,where it is not aD).is~~hat his waal should approaeh a little ta a gold colour; be~ausethe l1eart being seated neartl1ereto, it is a proof of greater warmth and vivaeity of constitution.He should have a good fieeee; thick, straight, fine, soft, delicate, and somewhatoily. Eaeh fibre of the wool should terminate in a'small head, like a. pin's. Hiswool should' he of sufficient and prop()ltionateJellgth.He should he dew.lapped. Therams are left with the ewes a .. mouth or more. ]J they appear weak, or if theweather iscold, the sl1epherds.give them toasted salt anda littleblack pepper.ln the Merina flocks the rams are loft uneut, ex:cept the bell-wethers,. on account ofthe superior quantity of their wool, their stronger constitution, and greater length oflife.Theil' age isknownby the teeth of their lowerjaw. Tliose of two years old havetwo;those ofth1'ee, four; those of four, six; those· of five, eigl1t; andafter that age theydo incr.ease *.~2~_r~~~~r._~0 dec~y either in flesh or waal; but after that, .a:nltlîe otl1e1'. Tlîeir ut{nost extent of existence is to eightyeà:rs; after which, from wànt of teeth; :t:hey are no longer able to feed, and dié.The ewes should' be full...bodied; theirheads small, ereet, and free from/wool..Those which are otherwise are bad nurses.,Raddling begins ta be exploded among the more ~nlightened' shepherds.In case of snow,. frost,rain,o,r win~s, at yèaning time, some care is necessary at the'time theewes drop :........such as warming the lambs, and putting a Httle milk in theirrnou.ths fi'om thè 'teat Ifthe ewe is tooweak, the lambis killed, and the sldn savedto be put upon anotber lamb to he reared by pel' when she gets strength, in case ofothers twinning. SO,IllCtimes it isnecessary ta fasten and ,campel the ewes to admitli< The fii'st year'ihey are named corderos; 2d, borros; 3d, alldruscos;. 4th, trasalldruscos; 5th, cor,..radas; .. ailer, revitjos.

~64 APPRNDIX.the lambs, either their OWR or fostered on, tp suck them *, in a deft stick. A'fter twoor th1'ee times they desist fl'oth resisting them.The breeding rams are kept· apart from the main fiock of males, as these are fromthe ewes; the fil'st-mentioned being always placed, and requiringtobeso, in the bestpasture that ifS 'to be had. They require more food, and are less active to seek it titanthe ewest.Valuet yeady of each Merina to its owner, one real and a half, de Vellon; to theking, six reals aqd a half: total gross profit. upon five million Merinas pel' annum,seventy-five millions of reals ;-thirty-two· millions and a half to thl;:. king; .seven millions·and a half to the wool-growers; the other thirty-five millions to thé.p~lblic.Of the quality of wool of differentplaces, Leon isSegovia, .ncxtSoria,. and lastCu~m~a.Of the wool, the best is that of the ribs, beginning fourfingers .pelow the back-bone,down to the ends of the l'ibs, and from the elbow to the fiank; this is named nfina§.The second is that of tlie breast, loins, fiat of the neck, some best of the breeching,and between the elbows; this is calledfino.The third is. that of the beîly, fiat of the neck, which is co..equal with the best ofthe breeching above recited, pack of the neck, behind the ears to the witners. Theregt on the beUX affords a fourth sort, if dean; ifnot, it is rejected; as is the case withihat of the insides of the hind legs. The refuse Il, that. betw~en the legs, Îs not re-.. 1'0 foster on a lamb, they tie the ewe, andat night compel her to give suck to th~ lantb two orthree times, having put on the lamb the skin of the dead one, and sprinkled itover with salt.. In theday the lamb goes to its owI} mother, apd is thus doubly nursed; for apie~e (it";tné'iisltiiîiâbovementionedbeingleft round its neck, the f()st~J:-ewesti}.1t Six rams to every hundred ewes ; more if. thepasturé is rugged. The rams are left with tl1e ewesfor a monthor eix weeks if necessary. The late lambs are pUJ on prime pasture, to rnake the wholeyoung Bocks of the year as even as possible.t The dutYupon the wool paidto the crown is to tlrtl net profitofthè ownerasmore tItanJour to one.§ Care shouldbe taken in choosinga rarn, that he has not coarsewool herei ()rhairy.WooL.-Ist. Of the ribs(rttfina).2d.Between the elbows, loins, fiat of the. neck, and dry of the breeching (jino).M. Belly, fiat of the neck, correspondent in value with the dry of the breo,hairy part, pic1l.ed O1,~t of the nner qua·,lities.

APPENDI:x. ~65ceived. This assortment, including many dther minutiro, i3 that for the Segoviattmarket.Of tHe Cledning.In hot water.!st process of wâshing-"5 or more men-4 denomÎnations of laboure1's.Sld. Draining-on frames.Sd.~ Collecting.4th. vVatering in cold water and treading-ll men-4 denominations of laboureur5th. Treading andextracting from the water.6th. Drainin~-several hands.{j,7th. Taking it out to the field to dtY in the sun, taking care, if any dew gets on it,nott t'emove it uutil the dew is dried off, as the wool is stained thereby.Forty thdusand persons are employed inthe caré of five millions of sheep.iProèess,!! TYashing.A boïler, weight forty arrobas, ~h,ence boiling water l'uns into the tinos, or pits,which are breast-deep, and hohieach forty arrobas of wool, which isput in by layers,the bottom. 0!1e 'being a yard or ·thereabout in depth, the othe1's less. As the waiercools, or is cooled,first four men, wQjch mlmber is ultimately increased to ten forthe same purpose, enter to tread the wool, which, when trodden sufficiently, istàken out and put on draining-frames of nine feet by four and a half, with intervalswhichaboutadmit the edge df a crown-piece, whereon the wool islaid after beingfirst drained, and squeezed by 7han~1. Being drained, it is pitted in cold water,in a vat of four feet and a haif and one deep (una te1,tia); here it is trodden byort themselves lean or hold on a cross-placed stick, whence thelike a tnill-shoot,wj.dening at thetnouth :trom half a yard toa yard. At its hence.entering the canal, itis again met byaman, wi'dughtwiththe feet,andoy this man leaningon theedges ofthêcanal, whichis waist;.deep. This process, is repeated on it by four or ':live persons succcssively;arter ,:vhiçh it is taken out piece-meal,by others, who lay it on the fiat edges of the ca....,·nal, whence it istaken byfour others, who lay it to drain on stone shelves; whenceit18 againtaken and laid in lines or beds a yard broad, and the height of a man, againstthe wall ;paraUel to which othel's are made, the water draining off, and runningtherefrom bygutters.vVhere the canal evacmttes isplaced a net to catch what would pasa off aml,be losLAt night il is laid out in the drying-ground~VOL. II.

ADDITIONALNOTES.IlTij,ANSL.ATION.-Vol. i. page71.line 11.}- .... In theyear16:57, thel1ll~lSt re~;erend.g(JneraIofthe congregation ofSan Benito ofSpain, Don Francisco Diego de 2il.Ya)~v~QAw"slil..fter­Wiards bishopof Astorga, beingat.themoll@,S'tery \9fMontserra~, aQc~~lPanjelli (by "'ariousother respectable ;persons, a femalechild of the age DI. fi~.eorsil\.y:ears çamethitheI:,under the care ofl1erl1llotbe17,a widow, alld toldtibeabbotthat she ;Qanle Dnthebusiness of her father, who was in purgatory, to request that three masses, which heowed to the aItar of the Boly Vir~in, might bèsaid iIil order fOl" his liberation (rom thepains he then sufiered. The abbot CotllmUllicated this extraordinary appliCli\.tioll tothe xight lre.ve1:end general, ,wbo,induced .by an impul.se :of«d.e.v.otioll, commanded ,thatthethree massesshould be immediately sung, he .h4nself joinin,g in them.. "AU the"~mrnunity ofreligio\IS of the O1onasteryassembled in.the presbytery,.and the mostrevel·oo.d ;general placed the childclosebybim. llethen, .dut:ing tbeco:urseof t11efust .01ass, asked her if she sawber father: to wllich she .replied, thatshedid,alldJ»Ointed ont that he was at the side.of theepistole close to the steps of HIe altar, ~dthat he was aH ina blaze offire. On hearing this, .the ,generalbandkeoohief,:aud ga~e it tothe.infaut,say.Ïl\g, "S,in!;~.,:.then, goyour father ,is,and kindle this." ThechiLd went,{forshealone saw it,) and hardly hadshe reached the spot where her father was, with the handkerchie(, when il began tohlaze in fiames visible to aU the spectatOl·s. An were a~tonished with thisprodigy,whicb so clearly p}'oved the truth of the child'sstory. Whellt~ first ,UIaSS wastinish.ed,thegeneralordered th~t tlle other two should he also SU1115, thewhole religiouscornmunityjoining with the utInost devotiou andsa,tisfaction. At the time of:theco:U8ecmtion ,in the secondmass, the generalaskedthe child Where .her fatherthen was? if l'he sawhi01? and how.he was ciad ?-.1:0. which she replied, .TlIat shesaw hi01, that he was near the altar close by the deacon, pointÎlJg to the .place, andthat no fire was about him, but that he was clad in a dress most beautiful of colom:.The se~~nd ruàss b6ing finished, the third was begun with the samesolemnity;...and atthe due iime the general again asked hertbe samequestion as before; and she Fe:­plied, that her father had passed to the side of the Evangelist, th~t he was clad inwhite, and·· very cheerful, by the side of the officiating priest. The mass still pro-

ADDITIONAi. l'è)TES.ceMing, as saon a$'the priest had eaten the'host, the child cried out repeatedly, andiiloud, "'l'here goes my father! There goes my father !" having said which she feilin a fit, aU who saw it remaining affected and astonished. \Vhen the infant recoveredfrom her fit, she told. th08e around that her fatller !lad ascended with much alertnessto the top of the church, and that he went by the side ofour Saviour Jesus Christ verychéetfully. She was asked then, How she Imew it was Jesus Christ who was b.Y'tMslde of her father? To which she replied, that she knew him by the crown of thornshe \vore on his head. Fitlally, the child declared that her father desired her to givehis thanks ta the convent, that Gad was pleased, and that he would recommend it inheaven, &c. &c. &c.But the account continues-··Lest any dOl1bt whatever should remain upon the ê\'id~Jtêéhereadduced, it i8 necessary to know, that the priest commands the soul towhiêh hEf adiifèsses himself, for the purpose of hringing it out of pl1rgatory, into diffe~l'éntsituatidns dl1ririgtheprocess of the ma8S; but this is done mentally. But wlrentheptiest quits thesactis:ty tl1Efs6ulgoes befote him, as at the commencement of thetna:ss .he ôtders if to place itself al tll)'e s:ide ofthe:Evangelist. When the mass ]~firitshed, the priestl:\sb the pet'Sô..t(} whomthe soul bas appeared, what he bas sren?For tu thàtpetsoo itusuallyéontltlU8S visible thl'onghont. And whereas this said pel"­son ahvays agreesand concurs in lvMthé attésts, precisely ",ith what thepriestimsmer'l:taIly dlrected to thé soul ta do, the sIightest donbtorsuspicion of frl!l:nd. ig impossfbieetthel" on the part of the persontestifying to the 8ight of the soul, or on that oftheevilangel himself: for the one cannot penetl'àte the mind of the priest ta $.ScettaJinwhat he' bas saidto the soul; nOT ca!'l the commOll enemy of man Bnd any persomtladvantàge to himself in fostering or aibetting deceptions under SGen a description,cOOtrary, wou,ldbe ofmuch in:i,ury ta him.l\l1M"ia Ilosel'a:s, anativee ôf Vigo~7catrle tothissaftCt)'tmry, anii gttve i'nfôrmatiootttat 'llhe &>ul of PàuaC(;)le, a farmefdMifitornes, wh6 diéiiin theyear 11'!!G,hadappeared ft) iilcr,and informed' herthat'he hl'id madêa vow to go barefootedt.0 vi84t our Laiiyof MOlltserrat, takingwithhitrlhts ~01'lS, and that he h'àd neit fnlfill:ed it ; butin the €lld, and tom&ke S'bortof.star,.,i "'YTrrâ'Ss~,·:t:he sotilasCiendedtè hea~n VfJl'Y gay and GOOl:entedl~. Âllwhicllis sworn.by me,before God aô.d up

268 ADDITION AL NOTES.SULTAN, page 188. (Chaldean and Arabie) Lord. Dut it S$€UllBte h,aV€8Dmeconnexion in its etymology with the idea of the sun.SHERIFF, page 191.J-Titie. .1Vobilis, magnificent: it is seemiJ)glyderived fwmthe word Aschrqf, the epithet given to the kings of Yemen, Syria,and Egypt.MAURITANIA, pages 195, 196.J-The generai outline of Mlil.üritanian history mayhe talœn thus: Primitive inhabitants, Homer:ites as they are called} early migl'ato~ ofthe Arabian stock, inland, while ,the Phœnieians followed the shores of the Mediterranean,and passed the Straits, still coasting. This process of thehuman occupationof the globe was followed in an early day, too; by idolatrous Arub emigrants. Nextfollowed Mussuimen in the succession of the military powers of the caliphs" oftheirlieutenants, of Edrissites, Ommiades, Moravidi, l\1oiadi,&c.It may be concluded and demonstrated indeed, too, thatEgypt principally influencedthe destinies of Mauritania. In fact, its fi1'st conquerors, of the Mussuh::nancreed, came thence, and it was governed byEdrissite deputies to the e,nd of thethird century, when this Ieading branch of Mussuimen was extirpated eve1'Y wheœwithin reach by thei1' t1'iumphant rivaIs the Ommiades. Ir} this, thil.:cl century,too,Africa, received Christianity from Egypt. by the way of Cyrene, .commonly caUeclCairoan. The contests of the two factions (forthey were noother)Qf Ommiades andEdrissitesagitated Mauritania at an early period. .ALMORAVEDI, .or MARABOUS, page 19t5.J--The wOl'din itsc1osest: signifiçatignmeans a professor of religion. Those who assumed the denomination embodied. anddesignated themseives 11rst in the East, and at a.period almost as far,ba'Ck as Islamismitself. They were always seceders at least, if not dissenters from thethis creed. Notwithstanding the presumption.of so gross,.that they hardly couId, withtruth, lay daim toany religion, for they had nothing ofil. but its fanaticism. Theirfirst doctOI', w11en they had risen into sorne degreeofnote, they received from Cairo, and in the West (Cyrene}: his name was Abdallah.The reraof their military consequence was that of the Regira 462,of our Lord 1069;when they elected for their chief in the field, Abubekr Ben Omar Lamethouni, ofSus on Segelmessa, south of the westen') Atlas. His successor Joseph Ben Texafinpushed on his.conqMests. This prince. built l\cIorocco (p1'obably on foundatiolls~uchmore ancient) about the year of our Lord 1080. This prince has beensubjected byhistorians to strange misnomers: W·ho would suspect him under the epithet Baschke-·hin? He extended his conquests over Spain, which had imposed onit then the commonname of Mogrebi (West Africa). The rule of the Moravedi extendedfora:@outeighty years through three reigns, to the year of thè Hegira 543 or 4. At the timeof this sect starting into political power, the Abassides reigned in Bagdat, and thoFathemites in Egypt.

ADDlTI(}NALNOTES.,Lalllethouni was the surname .. takon bytl>e Marabout. chief from the place.Qf hisbirth, a to,vn of Sus, on the ski1'tsof the I)es;yrt; the hot and dry sands whereofseemto possess a peculia1'powe1' in therttrefaction of every species of poison,whetherin the head of biped or reptile, ,The dynastyof the Zereids .vas what they found onthe th1'oneof Màulèitallia, and.prostratedto put themselves in its place. Joseph i5imm()rtali~eqil1 histolèybygaining tbe battle of Sala .near Badajos in Spain againsttheGhri~ti:ans, in whichking Alphonsowas killed, Anno C. 1086. The next exploitof the Almoravedi was the expeUing from Spain the Qmmiade dynasty of 'thei1' ownnation, whichhadfiourishedin. that peninsula, as the Abassicles did in Bagdat, and theFatbernites in Egypt. Thus wefind that the Mussulman apple of discord, genealogy,had no sbare in the rise of the storm against the peilce of the worTel, whieh was veryits,pours.(),car1'ying aU beforeit, from Segelmessa in south Barbary.cot1:l~:Fl0l"l1y' knC)Wl1 the ancientArabie al pl1abet was Jhe Cufie. The early contestsofthecalipha~s,the respective claims of Abassides and Ommiadesc/:l;Ue;d:out the efforts ofthe pen,a1l:d ..a.JllOl'Y. currrent character was the discovery, theresult wbereof is.all .the .• goodman;~itld;ll~gaill,~p. •.. b~'.the streams of blood and inkwhi~h.ftowedduring••somanycefi}turies. ·:An •.yx,pel't vi;l;ir, (in our tennsa secretalCY):was.inthosedays estin1atedat histl'ueva1ue! '.I;o one ofthem, at a very early. d.ateofthe. Hegira, and tOi tbe foregQing causes, .. :w~·owe the modern Arabic .ruflning--band.A.due pefusaI' of the four· 4to tQJlles of Herbelo~wiU rewardinvestigation on thissubject.'ASHISHAt,eag~fa 1\3....-Intoxicating ingredient; a te:rJll. of most ancient radical._"CirculaI' truncated cones: masses ofprecisely the same appearance and magnitudearescattered ov~r, and at about; the Sl;l.me intervals, the tract of plane to the south oft11e .pr~;:;ep.t l'Oad between Ca1'cason and TouJouse iI1 the southoflasfifil, however, ascertailjed (b,yvie~) to .he salldstone.'page~~.5,..,...:J)al;lcing is ttgaiustthe lVLohomrnedap.law; yet they have a dance ofdervises.Page ~29;-·-MÛfoccocity has seventeen gates, and is seven miles in circumference.MOIA,;f)I,/.Pl1g.e ~30,The ,word means a director of religious opinions. This. ass.nmedp.irecti.o~l.the.subseqllellt.factswill explain. A dift~rent principle from thatwhichroused the l\tIoravedi lurkshere. Mussulmal:üsm was, .likethe quadrupeds iol~hœdrus, on the .Jook",out.for auaJllbassador from ahove. A tradition was extantthatsuchaone; "Vas torerappealè, for he 1u~,d. onCe been; anel an Inlaun, too! in thei1'year ~S~: and he w/:l;sQne; of the nUIllerOus party of yet walkers in the world ! Ofç,o\lrse his aPPearal1ce was often assuIl),eel Olè .. assigned. This Moiadi was of the Fa­'themite descent-,the branch of Ali: but the Moi

A DDITIONALNOTES.Abdalla13cll T01l1rut, ~md his œra 514 of the Hcgita. He wàs produced and nUl'se~in the grand hot-bed of fanaticism, Segelmessa, and eIaimeda descent from the hO~1family by Hussain thé son of Ali, by the eldestdaughter of Mohommed, Fathem'tt,Of coûrse he was of the Shiite or heretic side. This is denorninated, by itself especially,a Fathemite dynasty; but the daim here to ~any relationshlp withthe hol,family i8 universaHy considered spurious and false. Ebn Tomrut, ;'l'ho now shoneout in the worId at the head of this sect, broke upon it from his retirement at· AO'lmà.1:o ~a place atld district represented as possessing a most delightfal dimate in the skirtsof l\fount Atlas. The l~th Imaun, the ~Iohommedansare told, who is toput t~mexaetly in the ttue right ,,-ay, (theyarc near it, neater than any others, but yet notex­.âètlyalighted lipon if,) is yet tn he: alld this perinnage, Ebn Tomrut,. assttt'edthêm,.and perhaps thôtIght hirnself, he was. This Mohommed Abdallnoluliàn Ben Tomrut,thus by this daim founded a dynasty of hetoes, whbdtove the world before them for: à eênfury and a half. fte hims~lf sttbverted the Marabou Moravedi dynasty in theperson of Tenefin Ben Ali Ben Hussuf Ben Texafin, about the year of the Regira.539, besieging and taking Moroero, .and putting that sultan to dèath, A.'C. 114().This 1Vfoiadi is occasionaUy called OMidallah,,;for 1fiê sÎlke ofconfusion. Little timè'\vas lost by this dymisty in pûtsuÎllg thêî'r ôbject~, the Moravedi, ioto the Peninsalâ,~xpelling them thence, as they (l\tol'avedi) rra:d done the Ommiades ! Butthis 'Vagd'one hy Jacob Ben Joseph, jtIstly el1titted Ah.1iânzôr, the gtabds0fl ofAbdal'moumafi,A..C.1194.The holyfmJzily qfMecca.-All these gloriôtisex~ôits were performed:, as isseen,,uhdér a forged claÎrn. The Fathemites werè the o11ly l'cal descendants bf tliePi'~fJ'îret;and in a creed where genea1gy 18 every thing, theyatê hèterbdôXif .. ·· ".Flle office ofImaurî, the poiitilîêate of Mecca, helongsèxcfnsively tothem; and the twelfth Iman!'lls yet to be, as above stated. This appears to have been a main moral principle ofs~ruggle withthe people of tbis creed_,Thc Abassid~sclaimeditby ascentfrotn theprophèt. AlI the Haschem house of tne Coraisch tribe ls allo",'ed to]:>ai·tieipate insome degree in the sacred character. Yet Hassan and Hussein, the reaI inftleritbrll§,tü:e daily cursed.6M:1\IIAtÙ~S, Jiage

A;.DD1TIONALN01.ES. 271Page ~~9.J-..-~egl'QsJaveryhehlg .1,1. 1).la,ttut Jt~lf .E

ADDITIONALNOTFS.west"""ard by the early progeny of Ham. Denon has ptoved theul1ifornJity of languagethroughont it, From ",:est to east. Another step, it~ primiiiveness, and allis proved;this last lS hot dif11eult. I~aÎ1guage, like population, entered l:;!.t .the .Cataracts, andproeeedeû by the skirts of the mountains. South"V'ard, it extended inundulâtions,and proves how population made its progress there. Language. identifies by latitudesaer~ss this whole continent. Of the Breber ot mountain language, thât of theshépherd'srace, eight \Vords identify with Siwah in a parallel of !aS. (Siwah, Al1lUlOn'stemple, is two hundredmiles west, one point south of Cairo). Who can deny thata primitive language, whieh contains sueh words as, bahr azrai, and albiad, "blueand white sea, or water?" The latitude of 15 north is amost importanttract of Afriea.The Tuorick is a primiti~e people, and of the first historieal intetest. Theyave bothstabile and nomade, and are connected in language withtheBrebers; so that tbis,that, and Showiah, identify like Greek, Latin, andTentonie.-Afew words as tothe population of this continent, and itsnow different races :-They are ehietly definedinto Malay onthe east, Negro on the west, Hottentot on the south, and Boschman inthe interior. This diminutive race last mentioned is found in general in the interiorof countries and islands through the low latitudes,andisworthy ofinvestigation. Asto physical relations: The ancient statt1es ofEgypthavè the Negro, and of India theAbyssinian eountenance. In regard tolanguage: Caieta, the name by which thosemountains at the heads of the Niger and Senegalrivers are design~ted, speaks è~ugh.In topography, a variety of local denominations exist, wh,ich ought to be sCfutinized.Atlas is a derivative from its snowy summits: thus Gibel Atlits, "snowy cliffs." The,geographical knowledge of the ancients, eouched as it was in mystery, was verygteat.They personified every thing. See the heads Atlas, Atlantes, Atllantitles, ..... how muchthis object made up of thei1' crypto-moraI thëology. GCr, me western point, ls a boldpromontory; its tenn i3 of primitive fOot. Four-flfths of the fabulous poetizing of theancÏents is nauticaI. Gaur, a mountain tremendous to marinera. On the southhereof is Santa Cruz. 'This placé's name 1l;ith fhe indigenous ls ...

ADDITIONAL.thing extru{)rdinaryFuertaventura is but seventeen leaffues from theoaU interesting: Cape Verde, A:lOres, Caul;lrian, l:;\nd MaphilosophieSertorius cOl1ceived of thern ! Sec Homerconilexion of and andhappysçe];)"ery, .. and aU poil1ting to thcwest.,wa.rd. In regard to descriptive denominations, too, whence Pluvialia? But climatehaschallgcd; the progress of desiecation is very powerful. Capraria is more obvious.The islands abounded with thése ani\nals, the population being pUl'ely pastoral. Butstill note the affinities of this population with Egypt, and trace how mental intelligencemade progress from the Indus to the Atlantic, the cataraets of Syene being the entrepôî:iItisamongancient writers, however, that information as to thesç countries is tobe pickedup for instance, in regard to Gœtulia, Sallust,-and Virgil, (larDas.)-:..seealso

ADDITION'ALN61'U8.4thIy, The arenose tract, whenee miSes tbepardûugMn4f;oQ well knQWl1 În OUtdimates.Proceeding southwards, this vast continent is eonttacted by. the 91gbt cafled théGulf of Guinea, and aU onwatds in that direction may be considered an annexationto its antarctic point, of the gteat local advantages and prospects wbereôf no nationhas hitherto condescended ta avaîtitself.THEPnnted by Richard and .4.rthu,. Taylor, Shoo-Lane, London.

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ESSAY on REVOLU­TIONS, ANCrENT and MODERN, 8vo. 12s.-Ditto in French.POYAGES AND TRA17ELS.TileSECOND and last VOLUME of the TRAVELS of Professor LICH­TENSTEIN. in SOUTHERN AFRICA; comprising the Contilluationof his Jour~ey through ~heKar.1'00; a Botalllcal Tour to the District of Zwellendam &c. a Journey into the Countnes of the BosJesmans,the Corans, and the Beetjuans, a People never before ~isited by Europeans; an Excursion to the Borders'ofth~ Roggeveld; a Journey to Bosjesveld and Tulbagh, and the Return by St. Helena to Europe. llIustratedwlth a valuable Map, and several Engravings. Price 36s. l'oards. .,This work constitutes an intermec!iate linkif\ point.of lime between theTraveh of l\1r.13arrow an~ Mr. Caml:~el1. 1 heresidence of the allthor in the 1egiOlls he describes, exceeded that of either of the "bove tr:,\,et~ers; hls opportumtles for obô.ervationwere more numerous; and thc circumst~nces uuder which he travelled \Vere, lU sorne respects, more lavourablefor ohtaining a close acquaintance with the objects he exànlilled. . . .., .Dr. L.'s work contains much valuable information relative to the country, Ils prodllctlOl1S, mhahltants, and natural hlstory,&c. &c.-See Edinburgh and AUI;I

VOYAGES AND TRAVEI,S.LETTERS f'rom the MEDTTERRANEi\N, containing a civlI and politiraIAccount of SICILY, TRII'OLY, TUNI5, and M A1.TA, with Biographical Sketches, Anecdotes, ancl Observationsillnstrative of the present state of those countries, and their relative ûtn~tion \Vith respect.to the Britishempire. Br EDWARD RLAQUIEHE, Esq R. N. In .2 large vols. 8vo. with Maps Priee 28s.Mr Blaquiere has produced an interesting and considerahly importalH work, which i. not nle'rely credilab,o to his talents,lIut his integrity, and from which His Majesty's Government mil] acquire a great deal uf usefulll1formation-Eciec. Rw.Mr. BI:,,]uiere ha. given a more minute. full,. and entertaù1Ïng picture of tlle,;e coulltrÎes than any of his competitors.Edinb. Rev. No. 4$,TRAVELS in the CAUCASU~ and GEORGIA, performed by c()mmand ofthe Prussian Governrnent. By JULI USVON KLAPROTH, Member of the Imperial Acaùemy of Sciences alSt. PetersIJUrgh,&c. 4to. Priee 21. .2i'. boards. . '• M. Klaproth i. entitled to the most unqualified praisc for his exertions, and for the important information wh/ch h~ hascollected; and \\ e promise those who may bc iuclined to peruse this worJ.,::, that they wiU be rewarded by much amusemeutand instructioll.-North Bri!. Rel~. ltlo. 2.The result of M. Klaproth's labours is a volume contaitüng a very considerable stock of new information.lV/nnthly Neview, October.TRAVELS in the J\-fOREA, ALBANIA, and otherPartsoî the OTTOM.t\.,NEMPIRE. By F. C. POUQUEVILLE, M. D. Member of the Commission of Arts and Sciences, and FrenchConsul at Joannina. \Vith Engravings of Scenery and Costume, 2l. 2s. bŒards.Dr. Pouqueville's volume on thc Morea, beingcollected by Mmself during a long residence in the country. and being theIast account w!Ïttell on the subject, is deserving of every attemion,-Ho/J/wllse's 'Imvels, page 218., Dr. Pouqueville, the French Consul at Joallnina, the capital of Albania, 1,,'1s collected much curious information concerningthe l\lorea. His account of the Albanese gives U& our1irst knowledge of a people whom the genius. of Ali Pacha hasraised to a level with the greatest n;ttions on the Continent.-Douglas on the }khdern Greeks.The SECOND and last VOLUME of the VOYAGES and TRAVELS ofG.VON LANGSDORFF, Aulic Counsellor to His Majesty the Emperol' of Russia, and çonsul-Gèneral at theBrazils. COliltaining the account of his Voyage to the Aleulian Islands and North.West Coast of America,and Return by Ladd over the North-East Parts of Asia, through Siberia to Petersburgh, a route never beforeperformed. Illustrated with a Map, and several Engravings. Priee Il. J7s. 6d. ,boards.We think this sccond part ofI_angsdorff's Travels the most eutertaining portion of the whole. le abounds inlively picturesand natural scenes and modes of life, of a very wild, striking, and romantic character; sorne accessions, too, are supplied to.natural history.-Ecle