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The Forgotten CoastIn the heart of the Central Coast of BritishColumbia, a place accessible only byplane or boat, lies the tiny First Nationscommunity of Klemtu. This is a place soisolated that it is often referred to as the‘forgotten coast’. Since the last ice age thisland has been uninhabited except for FirstNations people who have lived here continuouslyamong the towering slopes, deepfjords, open beaches, lush valleys and temperaterainforests. In the sea, a delicate interplaybetween fresh and salt water nurturedhundreds of species from microscopicorganisms to majestic mammals, and fueleda resource rich marine culture.There is an old Kitasoo legend, which describeshow they became a people. It tellsthe story of a woman who married a bear.She was very beautiful, but young and foolish.One day, while watching a bear strugglingto catch fish in a deep pool, shelaughed at him, not knowing he hadn’teaten in days. The elders became angry andforced her to marry the bear and take careof him. At first she was very unhappy butshe grew to love the bear and bore him twochildren—a boy and a girl. These childrenwere the first people to live in this placeand they promised never to laugh at natureagain. In the Kitasoo world, nature is afriend, animals have spirits and speak.<strong>Paddling</strong> these waters, you experiencethe same coast as the ancient peoples forwhom paddling was a way of life. You findisland archipelagos, sandy beaches, andgood camping sites, nestled among theIs it wild or farmed?Always ask.Netcage salmon farming pollutesthe environment and threatensthe survival of wild salmon.Eat WildKlemtuGeorgia Strait Alliance: 250-753-3459www.GeorgiaStrait.orgPhoto: Wild BC spring salmon by Alexandra Morton ©beautiful coastal rainforest and the snowcappedpeaks of the Coast Mountains. Thearea is still host to many species of wildlifeincluding bears, wolves, marine mammalsand many species of birds.Evidence of millennia of habitation issubtle because the culture was woodbased,but you can discover some of overone hundred documented ancient culturalsites, including abandoned native villages,fish traps, culturally modified trees andmiddens.On the shoreline, a jungle of moss-ladenold growth rainforest seems to form an impenetrablebarrier. But as you leave yourkayaks to explore the rainforest, a prehistoricworld is revealed. Towering stands ofold growth cedar, fir, hemlock and sprucedominate the canopy. The coniferous giantsare the last reminder of an old growth forestthat until recently carpeted the coast.The red cedar has always been, and continuesto be, the tree of life for the people—softand pliable yet straight grained.Evan LovelessThe ancient people learned to peel off thickplanks, 20 feet long, leaving these trees aliveto grow. For thousands of years they usedcedar to build houses, dugout canoes,clothing, tools and magical artworks.Today the people live in the village ofKlemtu, the only human presence for hundredsof kilometres in any direction. AlthoughKlemtu has all the resources of amodern community, the people here, likeevery living thing on this part of the coast,ultimately respond to the ecologicalrhythms. The fall salmon spawn is gorgingseason for all animals on the coast, boththe bears and humans, whose instincts tellthem it is time to stock up for the long winterseason. Evidence of this traditional fishingculture can be found in the many ancientfish traps constructed in the intertidalareas of salmon bearing streams—largerock entrapments to capture the fish as thetide went out.As the Kitasoo people say, they “live onthe land but from the sea”. Throughout theyear they harvest halibut, cod and herring,crabs, prawns, urchins and sea cucumbers,as they have for thousands of years. But themainstay of the people is the salmon. Inthe past, the salmon was not only the mainfood source but was also traded foreulachon grease, soapberries andseaweeds. Living off the land and sea is theirtradition. Nature is a generous spirit, capableof transforming itself into living, breathingentities to ensure the constant return ofabundant food sources—like the salmon.Many years ago, the Kitasoo (who are relatedto the Tsimshian) and the Xaixais people,who lived in smaller villages throughoutthe territory, came to settle in Klemtu(Klemdulxk). The word Klemtu means‘blocked passage’ in the Tsimshian language.The site first served as a camp alongthe way for trade, and was later used as abase for trading and providing wood to fuelthe steamships which traveled the insidepassage.Klemtu is a close-knit community of 400people. Four clans and crests are the foundationof the Kitasoo/Xaixais culture—Gaanhaanda (Raven), Gispudwada (KillerWhale, or Blackfish), Laxgeek (Eagle), andLaxgibu (Wolf). These clans and crests carrygreat significance for the Kitasoo/Xaixais,as does the wealth of history and culturalsites. Ancient celebrations such as thePotlatch are practiced to maintain and enhancetraditional ways of life.Continued over18 WaveLength August/September 2001
Lesson of the Dugout CanoeOn this chilly North Florida morning, Istand on the dry, cracked bed ofNewnans Lake, just to the east ofGainesville, Florida, where much of thelake bottom has become exposed duringthe past 2 year drought. My friend DaleCrider, a retired veteran biologist of theFlorida Fish and Wildlife ConservationCommission who lives on the lake, has ledme to this spot. At my feet lies the latestdugout canoe to emerge from the mud. Thisone hasn’t even been counted yet, as thestate doesn’t yet know it exists. It will benumber 120 of what is now the largest findof dugout canoes in the world.A feeling of special privilege sweeps overme—to be one of the very few to be able tosee and even touch this ancient canoe, hiddenfrom us for hundreds or even thousandsof years. Carbon dating has determined theseboats to vary in age from 500 to 5000 years.These dugouts are longboats, making obvioussense now of the Seminole name forthis lake—Pithlachocco, the ‘place ofOver 120 dugoutcanoes have beendiscovered.longboats,’ carvedout of the cypresstrees that still ring thelake today.As I look around,it hits me. Theseboats from so longago—the ancientpeople’s ‘litter’—fitright into the system.But here, in thebright Florida sunshine,I see modernlitter everywhere,too, and it does notfit into the system. Itis here for an eternity, some of it looking asnew as the day it went down, and much ofit harmful to the water and wildlife. Likethe dugouts, our modern cast-offs continueto emerge as more and more of the lakebed is exposed, and the muck dries up andblows away.I am reminded of Ellen White at the 1991Fritzi OlsonState of the Strait Conference (organized bythe Georgia Strait Alliance on VancouverIsland) in which she related her grandfather’swarning: “There will be other thingsin that water. You will never be able to useit again.”I guess this is our legacy. What a sorrycomment on our self-centeredness and lackof respect for other species’ right to a decentlife, not to mention a lack of respectfor the very most essential of resources forour own survival.What is the matter with us? How did weget so distant from nature? At what pointdid we lose the Native Americans’ connectionto living things?Future generations will have to judge us.But this scene before me this morning is certainlyanother indication of the real necessityfor humanity to change our ways andattitudes concerning the natural world. ❏Fritzi Olson is Executive Director of a non-profitenvironment group in Florida. Contact her ataar@currentproblems.org or 352-264-6827.KLEMTU ContinuedVisitors to Klemtu have the opportunity to taste the local salmon—which is still smoked inthe traditional way over cedar shakes—and may be invited to participate in a traditionalpotlatch or event in the cultural centre with adjoining museum and gift shop. All visitorsincluding paddlers are required to register with the Tourism office, and will be suppliedwith a Code of Ethics and Guidelines. ❏For more information on tourism opportunities in Klemtu and protocols etc., contact KlemtuTourism at (250) 839-2346 or toll free at 1-877-644-2346, or tours@kitasoo.org. Web:www.kitasoo.org. Evan Loveless is a Tourism Advisor for the Kitasoo/Xaixais Nation.Whether you’re pushing the limitsor seeking tranquility in naturewe have the gear that gets you there!Mountain Meadows Sports368 5th Street, Courtenay B.C. V9N 1K1Ph: (250) 338-8999 Fax: (250) 338-1823www.MountainMeadowsSports.commeadow@island.netTravel Sports AdventureAugust /September 2001 WaveLength19
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Page 6 and 7: Historic Nootka SoundW“ ell, that
Page 8 and 9: The former church contains twobeaut
Page 10 and 11: My Working Vacation Robert MorrisSi
Page 12 and 13: Paddling Back Through TimeWhen I th
Page 14 and 15: once the main winter village of the
Page 16 and 17: From the RainforestNuu-Chah-Nulth C
Page 20 and 21: BooksArctic Crossing byJonathan Wat
Page 22 and 23: Web PaddlingHistorical ‘Sites’M
Page 24 and 25: A Novice’s Sea Kayak TripGiving t
Page 26 and 27: Sea Kayak GuidesAlliance of BCThe S
Page 28 and 29: From the ArchipelagoThe No-Nonsense
Page 30 and 31: SPECIAL REPORT:Failure to ProtectOn
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Page 34 and 35: WAVELENGTH CALENDARAUGUST 4, Two Ha
Page 36 and 37: they suspect declining fishpopulati
Page 38 and 39: seaotter@he.netwww.he.net/~seaotter
Page 40 and 41: Mothership MeanderingsA Preventable
Page 42 and 43: Know Your NeighboursCruising Throug
Page 44 and 45: REAL ESTATEHOME & OFFICE. Modern 15

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