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The former church contains twobeautiful stained glass windows,donated by the Spanish government,depicting the meeting of CaptainsVancouver and Quadra.survived the transplant to the Bunsbys, butsubsequent transplants were more successful.The animals gradually expanded theirrange to Nootka Sound and now can befound throughout the length of VancouverIsland. According to a 1995 census, therewere 1522 sea otters in BC, 257 countedat Nootka Island alone.However, the only sea otter I had seensince 1970 was in an aquarium, so I desperatelywanted to find one on this trip,thirty years later.Our double kayak was more ‘primitive’than the rubber boat I used in 1970 but inall other ways, I felt positively pamperedon this trip, mainly thanks to my solicitouscompanions. No dried food or dossingdown in a wet sleeping bag on the dock bythe blackened pilings of yet another crumblingcannery this time. There was now amodern cedar and glass lodge, completewith a real rock fireplace. Tim Cyr and hisdad started building the lodge in 1982 forfishermen, and have since extended theirwelcome to kayakers.Our first paddling day, we eased comfortablyinto our kayaks from the dock andpaddled south towards Friendly Cove, soonreaching the entrance to the almost totallyenclosed, lagoon-like Boca del Infierno—site of a salmon cannery and pilchard reductionplant from 1897 to 1917. Even indomitableBud didn’t dare his single againstthe deluge of water boiling through thechute at high tide. But he did succeed onthe return journey at low tide, catching aback eddy and ferrying past an obstaclecourse of boulders and whirlpools, whilewe more timid souls chose the softer adventureof filming murals of static starfishon the entrance walls.Protected by the Saavedra Islands, wepaddled along Mackay Passage to enterSanta Gertrudis Cove where W.T.Dawleyhad a store from 1898 to 1927. This quietcove has the same name as the Spanishship, Santa Gertrudis de Magna, which accordingto Heather Harbord’s book NootkaSound, was itself rebuilt from the NorthWest America, a 40-ton schooner originallybuilt in 1788 by fur trader John Meares inFriendly Cove. The North West America wasthe first sailing ship to be launched on thePacific Northwest coast.In 1970, when I had first roundedMaquinna Point from the south, there, suddenly,on a rocky island guarding FriendlyCove, was Nootka Light, its imposing, immaculate,red and white buildings glintingin the evening sun. On that occasion I waslucky to stay overnight with the keepers,Ab and Isabella Price, a warmly hospitablecouple who were about to retire.This time, approaching from the north,the lighthouse buildings were just as startling,despite the drizzle. Coincidentally, thepresent lighthouse keepers, Ed and Pat Kidderwho succeeded the Prices, were alsoon the eve of their retirement.On my first visit, no more than ten houseshad lined the bay. It was only the old peoplewho remained. Their children andgrandchildren had left for jobs and schoolsin newer towns such as Gold River, Tahsisand Alberni. Johnny Williams and his wife,Ada, had invited me into their house andshowed me an album of old pictures, dancingmasks and ceremonial costumes.This time, there were only two housesleft on the beach and they belonged to thelast family living year-round in Yuquot,Johnny’s son, Ray, the youngest of his 16children, and Ray’s wife, Terry. It was greyand drizzling but the warm Williams welcomemade up for the rain.We had been paddling towards the biggovernment dock where the MV Uchuckties up twice a week to offload freight andpassengers, when Ray ran down the steeplyshelving beach to beckon us ashore outsidehis house. We changed course andMoon thunderbird (eagle).KAYAK SUPERNATURAL BRITISH COLUMBIA’SNOOTKA ISLANDPh. 250 752-0455www.nootkaisland.cominfo@nootkaisland.comWilderness Experiencein Comfort with G. Cook’s ToursNootka IslandLodge2 night, 3 daypackages: $699INCLUDES ROOM, ALL MEALS,GUIDE, KAYAK & GEAR, ANDAIRFARE FROM GOLD RIVERBreathtaking scenery and wildlife, guided tours, lessons, rentals,fishing packages, zodiac tours, hot showers, delicious meals.Whale watching, forest tours, native art & dance.Kayak Mothershipping available. 4 to 6 day cruises.Comfortable and friendly with wonderful food.Box 22, Alert Bay, BC, Canada V0N1A0Toll free 1-877-974-5002waletail@island.netwww.alertbay.com/cooktour8 WaveLength August/September 2001