WestfjordsBeauty <strong>in</strong> RemotenessHistory and Nature go hand-<strong>in</strong>-hand <strong>in</strong> ÁrneshreppurWhen head<strong>in</strong>g to the magnificentWestfords pen<strong>in</strong>sula of NorthWestern <strong>Iceland</strong>, approach<strong>in</strong>g ÁrneshreppurCounty is one extraord<strong>in</strong>ary journey.How to get thereThis least populated community <strong>in</strong> <strong>Iceland</strong>is served by Gjögur Airport, with yearround scheduled fl ights by Eagle Air. FromReykjavík to Árneshreppur, fly<strong>in</strong>g takesonly about half an hour—the ideal trip—especially <strong>in</strong> the w<strong>in</strong>tertime, as the roadconnect<strong>in</strong>g the region to the rest of <strong>Iceland</strong>can be closed for weeks dur<strong>in</strong>g w<strong>in</strong>ter,leav<strong>in</strong>g transport by air the only option.You visit for the landscapes and the lifeWith Árneshreppur boast<strong>in</strong>g some of<strong>Iceland</strong>’s <strong>most</strong> astonish<strong>in</strong>g landscapes,hik<strong>in</strong>g trails and walk<strong>in</strong>g paths are trulyenjoyed <strong>in</strong> this unique nature.<strong>The</strong>n the geothermal swimm<strong>in</strong>g pool atKrossnes is surely both dramatic and scenicdefi nitely someth<strong>in</strong>g not to be missed.Small but sufficient servicesA bank, co-op and a café serve thisbustl<strong>in</strong>g little community; SparisjóðurStrandamanna Bank <strong>in</strong> Norðurfjörður isopen every weekday but Wednesday from13-16. <strong>The</strong> Ste<strong>in</strong>grímsfjörður Co-ophas a petrol station as well as a greatvariety of products for sale. <strong>The</strong>n CaféNorðurfjörður, one of the <strong>most</strong> northerlycafés <strong>in</strong> <strong>Iceland</strong>, offers a varied menu ofnational dishes. Árneshreppur has alsoa great community centre, ideal for anytype of celebration.A trip back <strong>in</strong> timeFor local history, Kört Museum has animpressive display of old artefacts fromthe area and offer arts and crafts forsale. Another example of notable workdat<strong>in</strong>g from the past is the creation ofeiderdown duvets and pillows. Gatheredby hand, the eiderdown is then cleanedand processed by people with decades ofexperience <strong>in</strong> this field.One characteristic of the area are the twoherr<strong>in</strong>g factories, built <strong>in</strong> early 20 th century,one <strong>in</strong> Ingólfsfj örður and one <strong>in</strong> Djúpavík,a mute rem<strong>in</strong>der of the times past.AccomodationFor accommodation, Árneshreppur hasseveral good options. <strong>The</strong> beautifully situatedHótel Djúpavík offers accommodation withbreakfast and is open all year round.F<strong>in</strong>nb<strong>og</strong>astaðir School Hostel hassleep<strong>in</strong>g bag accommodation with cook<strong>in</strong>gand sanitary facilities, open from June untilthe end of August.Urðart<strong>in</strong>dur Tourist Services offersexcellent summer house rental and a campsite.<strong>The</strong> <strong>Iceland</strong> Tour<strong>in</strong>g Association, anothergreat option, owns a hut <strong>in</strong> Valgeirsstaðir,with a d<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g room and a kitchen andaccommodation for 20 people.If you are search<strong>in</strong>g for homely sleep<strong>in</strong>gbag arrangement, Norðurfjörður GuestHouse is def<strong>in</strong>itely the <strong>place</strong> to look for,open from 10 th of June until 31 st of August.Bergistangi Guesthouse has two bedroomsavailable, each with beds for three people.<strong>The</strong> old Meat Freez<strong>in</strong>g Plant (nowrenovated as a hostel) serves up to 28people and has cook<strong>in</strong>g facilities.F<strong>in</strong>ally, Ófeigsfjörður Tourist Services offera campsite and even luggage transport ation,from June until the end of August.Any traveller <strong>in</strong>terested <strong>in</strong> the diversity of<strong>Iceland</strong>ic nature and nation should not missthe opportunity to visit this phenomenal<strong>place</strong> of the north.Árneshreppur–SPNorðurfjörður • 524 Árneshreppur+354 451 4001arneshreppur@simnet.isnoneA Nature ParadiseHótel Djúpavík, comfort and care at the edge of the worldUntouched nature and <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>ghistory are among the attractions ofDjúpavík at Strandir. In this remote partof <strong>Iceland</strong>, a special breed of people founda way to live off the land and, when all thefj ords were fi lled with herr<strong>in</strong>g, this quietcove became important <strong>in</strong> the hunt for the‘silver of the sea’. Now it is a paradise forwalkers and nature lovers who fi ll up HótelDjúpavík from early spr<strong>in</strong>g till autumn.Old factory and dormitoryHótel Djúpavík was established <strong>in</strong> 1985when Eva Sigurbjörnsdóttir and herhusband Ásbjörn Þorgilsson, decidedto cultivate guests rather than fish.“We had planned to start a fish farm butwere unable to get a loan from the bank,”says Eva. “We had bought the women’sdormitory along with the old herr<strong>in</strong>gfactory and the hotel started there.”Most of the guests stay<strong>in</strong>g at HótelDjúpavík are <strong>in</strong> search of a natureexperience. Many walk from one fjordto another but others use cars, kayaks orboats to get from <strong>place</strong> to <strong>place</strong>.Eva and Ásbjörn provide guidance andadvice on what to see and how to getthere along with comfort and rest after along day’s exploration.A Historical Exhibition<strong>The</strong> Herr<strong>in</strong>g Factory is now the site ofDjúpavík’s Historical Exhibition whereold phot<strong>og</strong>raphs and texts lead viewersthrough the life and times of people <strong>in</strong>this quiet cove at the edge of the world.A guided tour of the factory is held twotimes per day, at 10am and 2pm.<strong>The</strong> factory also hosts art exhibitionsdur<strong>in</strong>g the summer.–JBHótel DjúpavíkDjúpavík • 524 Árneshreppur+354 451 4037djupavik@snerpa.iswww.djupavik.com188 189
WestfjordsWhere East is WestF<strong>in</strong>na Hotel is Set <strong>in</strong> the Sorcery and Witchcraft AreaHólmavík is the home of theMuseum of <strong>Iceland</strong>ic Sorceryand Witchcraft, located <strong>in</strong> a region the<strong>Iceland</strong>ers have always ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>ed to bedifferent – as <strong>in</strong> superhuman energy andpsychic power different. Consequently,Hólmavík’s Harbour HouseSte<strong>in</strong>húsið - modern accommodation <strong>in</strong> a house from another eraTwo doors splashed with brightred pa<strong>in</strong>t announce the recentrestoration of a home built <strong>in</strong> 1911,it came as no surprise to the islanderswhen a museum and a research centre<strong>in</strong>to witchcraft and sorcery wasestablished <strong>in</strong> this quiet little fish<strong>in</strong>gvillage on the east coast of the WestFjords. It’s where east is west.reliv<strong>in</strong>g its former glory days <strong>in</strong>Hólmavík, the large town <strong>in</strong> the easternpart of the West Fjords. Ste<strong>in</strong>husiðis an outpost of comfort <strong>in</strong> what canbe a desolate area, offer<strong>in</strong>g modernaccommodation <strong>in</strong> the midst of atraditional fish<strong>in</strong>g village. Its locationnear the harbour and across the streetfrom Hólmavík’s attractions, such asthe Witchcraft and Sorcery Museum,Cafe Riis, and artist’s workshop, makeSte<strong>in</strong>husið an ideal <strong>place</strong> to rest beforeembark<strong>in</strong>g further <strong>in</strong>to the Westfjords.<strong>The</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> house has five bedrooms onthe second floor with two large liv<strong>in</strong>gIt called for all k<strong>in</strong>dsof changes for the fish<strong>in</strong>g community,both hotels and restaurants and todaythere is a variety of accommodation <strong>in</strong>Hólmavík. F<strong>in</strong>na Hótel would be anexcellent choice. It is located on thehill slopes of the village and thus hasquite a view over the village and theHúnaf lói bay.F<strong>in</strong>na Hotel is alt<strong>og</strong>ether three floors,with a reception and breakfast roomon the ground floor. Newly renovated,along the veranda outside, it offers youa cosy time-out, whether you choose tosit <strong>in</strong>doors or outdoors.<strong>The</strong> hotel has twelve airy andbeautifully furnished rooms, either withor without an en suite bathroom. It alsooffers sleep<strong>in</strong>g-bag accommodation.<strong>The</strong> rooms without en suite bathroomsall have s<strong>in</strong>ks and access to communalbathrooms.Hótel F<strong>in</strong>na–SSBorgabraut 4 • 510 Hólmavík+354 451 3136f<strong>in</strong>nahotel@f<strong>in</strong>nahotel.iswww.f<strong>in</strong>nahotel.isrooms and a separate fully-equippedkitchen on the bottom. An adjo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>gapartment with a separate entrancefeatures a large bedroom, kitchen, andsmall liv<strong>in</strong>g room. Tongue and groovepa<strong>in</strong>ted wood walls meld with modernfurnish<strong>in</strong>gs to <strong>in</strong>voke the past withoutforsak<strong>in</strong>g contemporary comforts.Ste<strong>in</strong>húsið–KBOf Sorcerers and Witches<strong>The</strong> Museum Dedicated to an Extraord<strong>in</strong>ary Profession<strong>The</strong> Museum of <strong>Iceland</strong>ic Sorcery andWitchcraft <strong>in</strong> Hólmavík is an excellent<strong>place</strong> to get acqua<strong>in</strong>ted with the <strong>Iceland</strong>icsoul. Superstitions and folklores are quitereveal<strong>in</strong>g—and also great fun. Founded<strong>in</strong> the year 2000, the museum exhibitsartefacts related to sorcery and is home tothe only necropants <strong>in</strong> the world.By the beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g of the 17 th century, theReformation Period was past <strong>in</strong> <strong>Iceland</strong>.What commenced was a century which,until recently, has drawn little attention fromhistorians. For decades, prosecutions forwitchcraft and sorcery dom<strong>in</strong>ated the courtsand it was generally believed that the Devilhimself roamed the earth, tak<strong>in</strong>g an activepart <strong>in</strong> the lives of humans. Dur<strong>in</strong>g thepersecutions and burn<strong>in</strong>gs for witchcraft, theregion of Strandir was regarded as the homeof the cunn<strong>in</strong>g. As a result the region holds aunique heritage of superstition, folklore andthe history of the 17 th century.<strong>The</strong>re are number of sorcery recipes atthe museum, the potion for mak<strong>in</strong>g oneself<strong>in</strong>visible, for example, where the preparationof the <strong>in</strong>k is the <strong>most</strong> difficult task. “Collectthree drops of blood from the <strong>in</strong>dex fi ngerof your left hand, three from the r<strong>in</strong>g fi ngerof your right hand, two from your rightnipple, and one from your left nipple. Mixthe blood with six drops of blood from theheart of a liv<strong>in</strong>g raven and melt it all withthe raven’s bra<strong>in</strong> and pieces of a humanstomach. Carve the sign on the lignite withmagnetic steel which has been hardenedthree times <strong>in</strong> human blood.” <strong>The</strong> museumeven has an <strong>in</strong>visible boy on display.<strong>The</strong> History and Annals of the 17 thcentury, persons <strong>in</strong>volved <strong>in</strong> witchcraftand the folklore surround<strong>in</strong>g it, <strong>Iceland</strong>icGrimoires, Magical Staves, Runes,Magical Flora, Magical Stones; they areall part of this splendid museum.<strong>The</strong>re is also a further part to themuseum: <strong>The</strong> Sorcerer’s Cottage <strong>in</strong> Bjarnafjörður, where one can easily understandhow the sorcerers survived—why theirsolitude—and yes, they were real.A guide through the museum is available<strong>in</strong> six languages: English, Spanish, German,Dutch, French and Italian and shortly it willalso be available <strong>in</strong> Hebrew and Russian.<strong>The</strong>re is a restaurant/café specialis<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>the fresh local mussels at the museum. Surelythe sorcerers have applied their <strong>in</strong>fluence onthe ocean and seashore—as those will be the<strong>most</strong> delicious mussels you’ll ever taste.Both museum and restaurant areopen all year round and <strong>in</strong> addition, themuseum also offers day tours aroundthe <strong>most</strong> bewitched area and a meet<strong>in</strong>gwith the trolls that tried to separate theWestfj ords from the ma<strong>in</strong>land.Strandagaldur–SSHöfðagata 1 • 510 Hólmavík+354 856 1911ste<strong>in</strong>husid@ste<strong>in</strong>husid.iswww.ste<strong>in</strong>husid.isHöfðagata 8-10 • 510 Hólmavík+354 897 6525galdrasyn<strong>in</strong>g@holmavik.iswww.galdrasyn<strong>in</strong>g.is190 191