The most famous unknown place in Iceland - Land og saga

WestfjordsHrafnseyriA farm that changed a nation, a museum for the futuresmall, very remote farm, on aA mountainside almost at the end of theworld; the home of two men, separated bysix centuries. A Viking chieftain in the late12 th century and a young scholar whowas later to become known asthe Father of the Nation.Hrafn Sveinbjarnasonwas a Viking leader whotravelled to England,France and Italy, studyingto become a physician inSalerno. He returned tobecome a popular leaderin the Westfjords, onlyto be assassinated by oneof those he had helped. Helived on the farm in Eyri, towhich he gave his name.Six centuries later, from thissame little farm, came a young man, theson of a pastor, who was to change thedestiny of Iceland. Hrafnseyri has becomesynonymous with Jón Sigurðsson, theman who, without a shot being fi red or aman being killed, brought Iceland fromservitude to the Danish crown to internalself-rule with a rekindled self-respect.Today, the farm is a museum, a testamentto the man who brought freedom to hisnation. However, this is no dead memorialbut rather a living extension of the lives ofboth these great men, each a hero in histime, taking their work forward in newways whilst enshrining the values andachievements they made.On the 17 th June 2011, Iceland celebratedthe 200 th birthday of their most famousfreedom fighter, who fought with words andwisdom, as opposed to the guns and bulletsfavoured by most governments andrevolutionaries alike. In 1944,Jón’s birthday was chosen asthe birthday of Iceland asa nation, in recognitionof the key role he playedin bringing its freedomand independence fromforeign rule, becominga nation in its own right.It is celebrated each yearas Iceland’s NationalDay. On the 17 th June2011, the President of Icelandvisited Hrafnseyri to openthe celebrations marking, not onlyJón Sigurðsson’s birth but the rebirth andreopening of the museum dedicated to hismemory on the same spot where he was born.Why would anyone want to live in such aninhospitable spot? The road linking it withthe rest of the Westfjord towns in the northis diffi cult and often impassable in winter.The rest of the year offers an answer. It islocated on the north slopes of Arnarfjörður,surrounded by scenes of great naturalbeauty, including Iceland’s most beautifulwaterfall, the 100 metre high Dynjandi(Thunderer), often also called ‘The Bride’sVeil’. Hiking trails abound in the almostuntouchedlandscape of mountains, fj ords,valleys and cliffs where wildlife is plentiful.Both the remoteness and peace of the fj ordprovide a good opportunity for anyone tocontemplate their lives and roles.In 1829, when Jón Sigurðsson was 18years old, he left the farm, fi rst moving toReykjavik before moving to Copenhagento become a student in 1833. An uprightand forthright man, he had the calmauthority of a leader. He was able toconverse with king and commoneralike—a trait that won him much respectand support as he argued, using hisknowledge of the historical archives as hisplatform, to justify his claim for Icelandicindependence. This was a time whenrevolutionary fervour was sweeping thewestern world. Independence movementsin Germany, France and the USAprovided inspiration to the students inCopenhagen. Jón sought self-rule forIceland under the Danish crown.Through his annual writings,he kept his supporters inIceland informed.In 1851, a new Danishgovernment sought toannex Iceland, making itmerely another district ofDenmark. The Alþing (theIcelandic parliament), whichhad become an advisory bodyon Icelandic matters, under Jón’sleadership boldly resisted theseattempts. Despite Danish warships andmilitary presence in the harbour, forcewas not used and a stalemate existed fora decade, during which Jón continued toargue so successfully that it became acceptedfact that Iceland should rule itself. It was justa matter of how much money the Danishgovernment would pay. A committee wasset up in Denmark, on which Jón served.He delivered his own report, however,demanding five times as much as the Danishcommittee was considering, claimingreparations for damage done in the past.His motive was apparently to buy time,as Iceland was not ready to stand on itsown either economically or politicallyand he wanted it be understood that themoney was given as a right, not a gift.Through his wisdom, diplomacy,eloquent argument and Godly con viction,Jón was able to bring a peaceful transitionto self-rule at a time when most otherEuro pean countries were sufferingviolently turbulent revolutions, in whichmany were tortured, killed ormaimed in the battle for change.Although it wasn’t until1944 that Iceland becametotally independent,the foundation forindependence and nationalidentity was laid by JónSigurðsson. The museumat Hrafnseyri is a testamentto his life and legacy, givinga clear insight into his earlyyears, through the chapel andthe replicas of the farm buildings.The museum was renovated in timefor the June 2011 celebrations with adramatic new presentation designed byBasalt architects, who designed the BlueLagoon’s new structures.The museum uses its facilities to continueto educate and provide a unique setting forconferences and courses run in cooperationwith University Centre of Westfjords,University of Iceland, University ofAkureyri and the National Gallery ofIceland. Visiting lecturers from Denmark,USA and UK have taught innovativecourses such as the 2009 Conference onNational Identity in a Globalised World.Provocative questions are asked witha view to stimulate debate and argumentin order to provide a platform for changebased on discussion rather than violencewhilst addressing questions that have noeasy answers. For example, “What placedo national heroes have in a cosmopolitanworld?” “What is the place of NationalIdentity in a Multi-Cultural Society?”Jón Sigurðsson’s legacyis very relevant in a modern world. TheViking chieftain, Hrafn Sveinbjarnason’swas willing to brave many perils to travelthrough different countries, listeningto new ideas, experiencing differentcultures and to bring the best to helphis countrymen. If one remote farm canproduce two such leaders, there must besomething very valuable to learn from it!Visitors today can stay in a varietyof accommodations in the nearby townof Þingeyri. The gravel road over themountain is passable from Spring toAutumn. Refreshments are provided inthe replica turf house—delicious homemadecakes, bread, waffl es and jam, soupor coffee that make it the most popularcafé in the area! This special experience isaugmented by other locally produced items,along with souvenirs that will provide aconstant reminder of this farm for heroes!A unique feature of the farm is its oldchapel, which is fast becoming a hotfavourite for couples wanting to get marriedin a very special location. It is also thevenue for the conferences and courses heldthere during summer months, turning themuseum into a forward-thinking university,building on the educational foundation thatled to both its former famous inhabitantsleaving such a mark on the country’s history.Interested couples, students and courseproviders should contact the museum’s curator,Valdimar J. Halldórsson. Tel. +354 845 5518.HrafnseyriHrafnseyri • 471 Þingeyri+354 456 8260hrafnseyri@hrafnseyri.iswww.hrafnseyri.is180181