Directional Waves in the Nearshore Coastal Region of Perth ...

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Directional waves in the nearshore coastal region of Perth, Western AustraliaHuey Jean TanSubsequently, information on individual waves is lost and because spectral analysis is acomplex, linear approach, the representation of nonlinear waves may be distorted (USACE2002). The distribution of the variance is defined with frequency as S(f), assuming that thefunction is continuous in frequency space (i.e. statistically smooth the discrete frequencies toestimate continuum). The function E(f) is often called the frequency energy spectrum, and isdefined as! "0( f )E = # g S df Equation 2-1where ρ is the seawater density and g is the gravitational acceleration (Tucker and Pitt 2001).The spectral approach also allows for the analysis of the variability of waves with respect toperiod and the direction of travel. The directional energy spectrum ( f ,! )E describes howvariance is distributed in frequency f and direction θ. More information on directional wavespectrum is provided in Section 2.3. Spectral wave analysis using Fourier transform isdiscussed in greater detail in Tucker & Pitt (2001), Kinsman (1965) and Horikawa (1988).The following points outline some of the benefits of applying the spectral analysis method tosurface wave records:• The approach is easily implemented on microchip and packaged with gauginginstrument• The spectral theory is the basis for principal successful theories for describing wavegeneration by wind and modelling evolution of natural sea states in coastal regions• It is currently the only widely used approach for measuring wave direction• Fourier/spectral analysis of waves has large technical literature and statistical basisthat can be readily drawn upon.Literature Review 9
Directional waves in the nearshore coastal region of Perth, Western AustraliaHuey Jean TanFigure 2.4: The surface elevation time series and spectrum of a regular wave (USACE 2002)10 Literature Review
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Directional Waves in the Nearshore Coastal Region of Perth ...

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