Directional Waves in the Nearshore Coastal Region of Perth ...

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Directional waves in the nearshore coastal region of Perth, Western AustraliaHuey Jean TanACKNOWLEDGMENTSThere are many who I would like to acknowledge for their contribution in helping mecomplete this thesis project:To my supervisor, Professor Charitha Pattiaratchi, for your knowledge, advices, patience andencouragement throughout the duration of this project. Without your invaluable guidance, thisproject would not be possible.To my family, for your help, prayers and encouragements. Thanks especially to my parentsfor understanding my huge absence from the family home, and for consciously preparingnutritious food when I have meals at home.To my fiance, Robert Marlow, for your tremendous support and help, especially withcomputer stuff. Thank you, Rob, for your listening ear, for sticking by me even when I was atmy worst, and for all those times that you told me to "Go get 'em, tiger (*roar*)!" Youprovided me with an outlet from all this ‘thesis stuff’. I don't think I could have sanely made itto the end without your constant moral support, humour and cooking and cleaning.To my fellow final year friends in the Class of 2003: you have my gratitude for your words ofencouragement. Special thanks to Christina Young for your advice and for helping me outwith missed lectures.Thanks to my church Endeavour Christian Gathering and all my Christian buddies whoremembered and kept me in prayer.And last, but certainly not the least (not by a long shot), I thank You and praise You, my Godin heaven, for giving me life, blessings and your gift of eternal salvation.Acknowledgmentsiii
Directional waves in the nearshore coastal region of Perth, Western AustraliaHuey Jean TanTABLE OF CONTENTSABSTRACTiACKNOWLEDGMENTSiii1. INTRODUCTION 12 LITERATURE REVIEW 32.1 BACKGROUND INFORMATION ON OCEAN WAVES 32.1.1 CLASSIFICATION OF PROGRESSIVE OCEAN SURFACE WAVES............................................. 42.1.2 FACTORS INFLUENCING NEARSHORE WAVES.................................................................... 52.2 THEORIES AND METHODS OF WAVE ANALYSIS 62.2.1 REGULAR WAVES ............................................................................................................ 62.2.2 IRREGULAR WAVES ......................................................................................................... 72.2.3 SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT AND PEAK PERIOD.............................................................. 112.2.4 SPECTRAL WAVE POWER ............................................................................................... 112.3 DIRECTIONAL WAVE SPECTRUM 132.3.1 MEASUREMENT METHODS .............................................................................................. 132.3.2 FUNDAMENTAL EQUATIONS FOR DIRECTIONAL SPECTRUM ESTIMATION............................ 142.3.3 METHODS FOR DIRECTIONAL WAVE ANALYSIS ................................................................ 152.4 ENVIRONMENTAL SETTING 172.4.1 SITE CHARACTERISTICS.................................................................................................. 172.4.2 CLIMATE ....................................................................................................................... 182.4.3 REGIMES OF SEA BREEZE AND STORM EVENTS IN PERTH ................................................. 202.4.4 OFFSHORE WAVE CONDITIONS....................................................................................... 233 APPROACH 253.1 DATA COLLECTION 253.1.1 MEASURING DEVICE ...................................................................................................... 253.1.2 DATA COLLECTION TECHNIQUE ..................................................................................... 253.2 DATA ANALYSIS 27ivTable of Contents
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