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chains of components, each chain having a beginning and an endand all their links vital in between; and while a fuel system beginsat the tank and ends at the carburetor, an ignition system beginsat the battery and ends at the spark plugs. So lets get our HMVmobile again. Remember, do things in order.The first thing to check is are we getting a spark at the sparkplugs? Disconnect a spark plug wire at any plug—number oneat the front of the engine is usually the most convenient—andwith the ignition switch on, hold the wire’s tip about a quarter ofan inch from a known ground such as a cylinder head bolt or thegenerator mounting bracket and crank the engine with the starterto see if a spark jumps. Naturally you’ll be holding that wire byits insulation or with insulated pliers or you may jump, too. Beingbitten by the spark is usually harmless, if unpleasant, but theshock can make you bang your head on the hood or drop yourhand on a hot exhaust manifold.While you may have heard people talk about “strong blue” or“weak yellow” sparks, any spark capable of jumping a quarterinchgap is sufficient to run the engine. If you do get a sparkin this first test, then most of the time you do not have ignitionsystem problems and should re-check the fuel system... althoughthe distributor might have come loose, which could have messedup the timing. Check the distributor’s mounting to make sure it’stight. Even if you get a spark from one plug wire, check severalmore wires because this will eliminate the possibility of a carbontrack in the distributor cap: if only one spark plug wire sparks,36 www.militaryvehiclesmagazine.comthis might be your problem.Use care when removing the spark plug cables on M-seriessystems because the porcelain tips and rubber ends are delicateand easily broken. If the tip sticks within the spark plug or in theIgniter cap after you have unscrewed the nut, then use WD-40 orsomething similar and gently work the tip out of the plug or capor you might break it off.For pre-M-series (civilian type) wires, never pull on the wireitself but grip its metal or rubber tip. This is doubly important ifyour vintage HMV’s original type metal core wires have beenreplaced with latter-day carbon or fiberglass core wires, or youhave a more modern CUCV, because the core is easily broken andthen will not pass electrical current to the spark plug.Likewise, when reattaching the plug wire or cable to the sparkplug, distributor or Igniter, spray it with WD-40 or smear it withdielectric grease, and be careful not to cross-thread the M-seriescable nuts on the spark plug or Igniter cap. If you find that anM-series cable tip is already broken, it might have been shorting,causing the plug to misfire, in which case replace the cable withone of your spares. If you don’t have a spare cable, you’ll haveto get creative with electrical tape or maybe a bit of a plastic penbarrel to re-insulate the tip.If you did get a spark from two or more wires but your enginewon’t start—and you’re absolutely sure the problem isn’t in thefuel system—then remove the spark plugs and look at them. Theymay be oil-fouled, wet with fuel from flooding (a fuel systemproblem such as a jammed carburetor float or needlevalve) or the gap may have burned too wide. Anotherpossibility is that you’ve been using spark plugs whichrun too hot—especially if you’ve only been drivingyour HMV on short trips around town—and now these“hot plugs” have burned out from being run at highwayspeeds all day. If so, then replace them with yourspares. If the plugs are only dirty, then clean them withyour emery cloth or wire brush, re-gap, and reinstallthem. If that was your problem, you should be on yourway again.On the other hand, if you don’t get a spark at anyplug wire, the next thing to check is for primary voltage(6, 12, or 24) at the ignition coil. However, if yourHMV is a pre M-series type, check to be sure that thecoil’s secondary wire—the thick one that runs from thetop of the coil to the center distributor terminal—isfirmly attached at both ends, especially on coils thatare mounted upside-down as on some CCKWs andChevrolet G-506s. Also make sure that the two smallerwires—one coming from the ignition switch and theother going to the distributor—are unbroken and firmlyattached.Make sure that the coil is firmly gripped in itsmounting bracket and the bracket is tight and groundedto the engine. You can ascertain that the coil is indeedgrounded by trying to spark its case with your test leadTrouble-shooting an M-series waterproof distributor is often a matter of replacing or by using your probe tester. If you find the coil isn’tdoubtful parts until the engine starts again. Consider that just about everygrounded, fix the problem and you might be on yourcomponent of such a distributor is Government Issue and, unlike the older WWIIsystems, there are almost no civilian counterparts... except sometimes the points, way.condenser and/or rotor. It should therefore be apparent why spare parts need tobe carried on-board a vehicle venturing into the field. continued on page 40
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