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previously accessible only by camel were<br />

suddenly linked to cities and the outside world<br />

as a vast web of telegraph lines spread across<br />

the continent.<br />

Because of its remoteness, Cape York was one of<br />

the last places in Australia to get the telegraph.<br />

The last few hundreds miles of lines were laid<br />

in the mid 1880s along a straight-ish line from<br />

Cooktown on the east coast right up to the<br />

northern tip of mainland Australia, along with a<br />

service road. But straight lines aren’t the ideal<br />

way to build roads because things like cliffs,<br />

rivers and hills will ultimately get in the way. It’s<br />

for this reason the remaining 100km stretch of<br />

the Old Telegraph Road has been reinvented as<br />

the holy grail of bush-bashers in Australia.<br />

Getting to the ‘Tele’ is a mission in itself. In my<br />

case the journey involves a three-hour flight<br />

from Sydney to Cairns, an overnighter at an<br />

airport hotel, an early morning flight to Horn<br />

Island in the Torres Strait and a ferry to Seisia.<br />

There I rendezvous with Roy Kundra of Cape York<br />

Motorcycle Tours – a fast-riding, fast-talking<br />

northerner whose been showing this Mad Max<br />

part of the world to visiting riders for 25 years.<br />

Roy is riding a formidable Husaberg FE501.<br />

For me he’s brought a Suzuki DR-Z400E, a<br />

mass-market tractor he rents to riders on his<br />

company’s trophy 8-day tour from Cairns to the<br />

tip of Cape York. Attempting to do it in three<br />

days, I thought, was be testament to my mettle,<br />

until I learn Roy once did it in 10 hours and 45<br />

minutes. I have difficulty imagining how such<br />

a record is even possible when, an hour after<br />

leaving Seisia, I spend 10 minutes stuck behind<br />

the aforementioned dust-encased 4WD until I<br />

can safely overtake. Not a minute after making<br />

the pass, I see Roy waiting patiently for me at an<br />

unmarked goat track.<br />

“Have you had much experience on sand?” he<br />

asks before we get stuck into it.<br />

“Heaps,” I reply, lying through my teeth.<br />

“Sweat. Then follow me.”<br />

62 DIRT & TRAIL MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2016<br />

<strong>1602</strong> <strong>DT</strong> Telegraph track.indd 62 2016/01/24 9:41 PM

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