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previously accessible only by camel were<br />
suddenly linked to cities and the outside world<br />
as a vast web of telegraph lines spread across<br />
the continent.<br />
Because of its remoteness, Cape York was one of<br />
the last places in Australia to get the telegraph.<br />
The last few hundreds miles of lines were laid<br />
in the mid 1880s along a straight-ish line from<br />
Cooktown on the east coast right up to the<br />
northern tip of mainland Australia, along with a<br />
service road. But straight lines aren’t the ideal<br />
way to build roads because things like cliffs,<br />
rivers and hills will ultimately get in the way. It’s<br />
for this reason the remaining 100km stretch of<br />
the Old Telegraph Road has been reinvented as<br />
the holy grail of bush-bashers in Australia.<br />
Getting to the ‘Tele’ is a mission in itself. In my<br />
case the journey involves a three-hour flight<br />
from Sydney to Cairns, an overnighter at an<br />
airport hotel, an early morning flight to Horn<br />
Island in the Torres Strait and a ferry to Seisia.<br />
There I rendezvous with Roy Kundra of Cape York<br />
Motorcycle Tours – a fast-riding, fast-talking<br />
northerner whose been showing this Mad Max<br />
part of the world to visiting riders for 25 years.<br />
Roy is riding a formidable Husaberg FE501.<br />
For me he’s brought a Suzuki DR-Z400E, a<br />
mass-market tractor he rents to riders on his<br />
company’s trophy 8-day tour from Cairns to the<br />
tip of Cape York. Attempting to do it in three<br />
days, I thought, was be testament to my mettle,<br />
until I learn Roy once did it in 10 hours and 45<br />
minutes. I have difficulty imagining how such<br />
a record is even possible when, an hour after<br />
leaving Seisia, I spend 10 minutes stuck behind<br />
the aforementioned dust-encased 4WD until I<br />
can safely overtake. Not a minute after making<br />
the pass, I see Roy waiting patiently for me at an<br />
unmarked goat track.<br />
“Have you had much experience on sand?” he<br />
asks before we get stuck into it.<br />
“Heaps,” I reply, lying through my teeth.<br />
“Sweat. Then follow me.”<br />
62 DIRT & TRAIL MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2016<br />
<strong>1602</strong> <strong>DT</strong> Telegraph track.indd 62 2016/01/24 9:41 PM