Heart of Lapland, summer 2016

I’ v e e x p e r i e nc e d s o m e o f m y l i f e’s g r e at e st
m o m e n t s i n Ö v e r k a l i x. From shooting films to
playing ice hockey for Team Salming against Överkalix
IK. Börje Salming was indeed playing, as well as many
other legends. I’ve been sauna bathing in Ängesån and
felt the warmth of the midnight sun. Test driven a Harley
Davidson and even driven a hot rod whilst singing
“Smoke on the water”. I’ve scared anglers by shoving
old stubs in order to create fake bear traces. Been paddling
a Canadian canoe in Kamelunge, confessed my sins
to Pohjanaen in Sirillius church. Starred in the play
“Miss Julie” at Brännaberget one Midsummer’s eve (I left
my theatre costume in Stockholm - as I was so eager to
get to Överkalix that I only packed my fishing tools and
forgot everything else - true story). Been fishing salmon
with Mikkey Dee from Motörhead at Arctic Range, and
done a whole lot of mischief that’s not suitable for print,
so I think we’ll stop here…!
visitors the best side of Överkalix. I recall all the gifts
I’ve received, from filming in Sanningslandet where we
were offered freshly made pancakes with cloudberry,
the gold of the forest, to the day I was to catch my first
salmon of 10 kilo using a fly rod in Ängesån. Yeah that’s
actually how it happened – it was a gift. Ronny Carlsson,
renowned salmon fisherman and fly fishing guru
brought me out to Ängesån. We walked to the spot he
calls “Hällan”, you’d be surprised by how many salmon
were caught – in total it was about 14. When Ronny had
a salmon on the hook he asked calmly: “Do you want
to try?”
Of course I do, I thought to myself and grabbed the rod
with shivering hands. With a whistling sound, 25 metres
of line flew out, then another 25 metres. When will this
end (?) I thought before Ronny leaned over, cigarette in
his hand, saying “It’s probably not so small after all.”
I’ve always loved north
” Sweden and it’s people.
Swedish actor Rafael Edholm
The first time I saw Överkalix when driving across Hällabron,
was in early June 1999. I was on my way up north
to shoot a film in the wilderness, “Järngänget”. The film
was directed by Jon Lindström and starred Alexander
Skarsgård, Josephine Bornebusch, Marika Lagercrantz,
as well as the now deceased actors Per Oscarsson who
played my father and Emil Forselius who played my
younger brother. The brilliant Jens Fischer was there to
catch each moment on film. I was already fantasizing,
even the name ÖVERKALIX mesmerized me, and to be
able to film in these incredibly beautiful surroundings
was like a dream. Having an X in a name, a town name,
really impresses me. The fact that I’ve always loved nature
and never minded long walks out in the wilderness,
preferably with a fishing rod in my hand, didn’t make
things worse. This was the start of the adventure.
I’ve always loved Norrland and its people. When I first
arrived in Norrbotten at Kallax Airport, yet another
X, my heart skipped a beat. I had yearned to travelled
there ever since I was little, having read numerous articles
about the fishing, the famous salmon fishing in
particular. When driving from Luleå I could feel the excitement
already. This was where I was going to spend
almost two months and a big part of me felt at home
already.
I entered the Grand Arctic Hotel holding a bunch of fishing
rods and waders. The hotel resembled a palace in the
middle of the outback. There I was treated to such hospitality
by everyone. From my understanding that hospitality
still lives on as the hotel now lets refugees enjoy
the fantastic location and the stunning views. That’s
HUGE, and something I know that the locals in Överkalix
are immensely proud of. They always want to show
An hour later a 10 kilo salmon lay on “Hällan”. The
following day this fish was served to the film crew,
prepared by the film chef number 1, Bengt “the king”
Karlsson, whom was instantly employed as our chef.
He served me my first “Klämma” with potatoes, onion,
sour cream and fermented herring. Before this I’d always
avoided this type of food, but Bengt managed to
change my mind. Consider yourself lucky if you get to
experience food made in Bengt’s muurikka where everything
from culinary Mediterranean specialties to local
wild stews have been prepared. You could write a novel
about this man! It’s such a lovely feeling to slowly move
along the Kalix River in Bengt’s warm sauna, with the
midnight sun as the backdrop.
When in Överkalix you might also be lucky enough to
meet the funniest man in Sweden, and I’m not talking
about Robert Gustavsson or the other people calling
themselves comedians, but Jocke Andersson from Vännäs,
or Kron which he’s sometimes called. I was lucky
to get him to play one of the big parts in “Babas Bilas”
which I wrote and directed.
Well, if I’m to sum up Överkalix, it’s not that hard: I
love it and I long to be there when I’m not there. Plus,
now I know where to find them - the 10 kilos salmons
in Ängesån!
These places are well worth a visit: Bengt’s sauna raft
(River Rafter), Vippabacken, the Tractor Museum and
Jockfall. Learn the art of fly-fishing from Erling Holmström
and Ronny Landin. Or just do what I usually do;
visit Kron and put a note on the table saying “I’ve gone
to the woods, not sure when I’ll be back – Kisses // R.”
My love for
Överkalix
BY: RAFAEL EDHOLM
Photo: Roy Rossovich