UIAA-Handbook_FLIP__

A.1.5
Objective Hazards
Mountain travel involves several types of hazards. Namely:
Dangers related to the incorrect use of equipment, improper technique, or the
mountaineer’s lacking the requisite skill level for the desired climb.
Dangers inherent to the natural environment, aka objective hazards, over which we
have little control.
This chapter focuses on the dangers associated with objective hazards. By first learning
to recognize these dangers, you can significantly reduce your exposure to them.
Then, taking these dangers into account, you can work to reduce the risk level and
potential consequences during your itinerary.
Rockfall
Rockfall may occur on walls/faces as well
as on low-angle terrain. Falling rocks can
threaten mountaineers and climbers
as well as hikers. Certain places and
certain conditions are more conducive to
rockfall.
Unstable boulders (moraines) or cliffs
and walls composed of brittle or more
fractured rock (e.g., weathered limestone).
Natural features favouring the channelling
of stones (ravines, couloirs, gorges or
canyons).
Areas of loose or poor-quality rock where
the snow cover has recently melted.
High temperatures at altitude, causing
ice or permafrost to melt.
Presence of climbers, hikers and
wildlife uphill, higher on the slope.
High winds or rain during an intense
thunderstorm.
Falling seracs
Seracs can fall at any time, as it’s glacial
movement that causes them to calve off
and topple. Wherever possible, avoid
travelling under seracs. If you must travel
under seracs, minimize your exposure by
taking the following precautions:
Carefully observe the fall line and
deposit area. Evaluate possible escape
routes that let you evade or turn back
from a falling serac.
Don the proper gear/equipment before
continuing (are crampons or adjustments
to your tie-ins needed?).
Move quickly and calmly without stopping,
and set a sustainable pace.
Move one rope team at a time, maintaining
distance between teams to limit
the number of people exposed to serac
fall at any one time.
Cornices
Like seracs, cornices can break off at
any time. They can also collapse under a
mountaineer’s weight. To reduce the risk:
Avoid travelling under the potential
trajectory of a falling cornice.
Assess the cornice’s size from a safe location
off to the side (e.g., a rock summit).
When traveling along a corniced
ridge, maintain a healthy distance from
the edge. Depending on the size of
the overhang, cornices can sometimes
collapse several meters behind the crest.
Do not blindly follow footprints venturing
too close to the cornice edge.
If necessary, protect yourself using
snow anchors and a rope (refer to
“Equipment for glacier travel” in the
Alpinism Module).
Do not use withou
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