UIAA-Handbook_FLIP__

4.1.
How to choose a good location
for a snow belay station
On steep snow, when simul-climbing becomes too dangerous, you’ll need to build an
anchor. These anchors can vary widely in strength.
The leader chooses a line of ascent that
avoids falling directly onto the belay, in
case of a fall or slide.
The belayer braces into the snow
slope, digging notches for his buttocks
and heels.
The belayer faces in the direction of
pull, to prepare to catch a falling leader.
The belayer uses a dynamic belay in
order to protect the anchor. Anchor
strength varies with snow consistency, so
it won’t always be predictable.
Yes
Yes
No
Do not use withou
No
Danger!
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