UIAA-Handbook_FLIP__

4.3.
What to do when you arrive at a bolted belay station
On multipitch routes—but rarely on sport routes—the belay station consists of two
unlinked anchor points. Follow this procedure to build a secure belay station after
rigging your redirect.
Inspect the belay station
Belay stations are generally bolted, but
you should always check the condition of
the bolts or other in situ hardware.
Bolts: check condition and tightness.
Pitons: check condition and systematically
re-seat them with a hammer.
Back up the belay station with additional
pitons, nuts or cams.
Boulder or horn: Test by rapping them
with the palm of your hand.
Chain: check the condition of the chain
links, of the quicklinks, etc.
In situ slings or webbing: systematically
check for weathering/wear and swap
them out if necessary. You should always
carry a knife.
Linking anchor points
A belay station must at a minimum consist
of two anchor points. If the anchor points
aren’t already connected, equalize them
such that each point equally shares you
and your partner’s combined weight.
Always use locking carabiners.
Yes
Bear in mind that the belayer may be
lifted if the lead climber falls. In an
emergency, when no locking carabiner
is available, you should use at least two
carabiners with gates facing opposing
directions.
No
Do not use withou
Always use locking carabiners
at the belay station.
Danger!
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