UIAA-Handbook_FLIP__
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2.5.<br />
How to secure the crux of a route<br />
Assistance and gentle reassurance can be helpful when moving the group over an<br />
exposed section, where a fall would be serious; or you can install a safety line or fixed<br />
rope. In either case, do not hesitate to rope up less experienced or less skilled hikers<br />
if a fall would prove injurious or fatal.<br />
Safety Line<br />
A safety line is installed by fixing a rope to<br />
an existing anchor such as pitons or bolts,<br />
or by fixing (tying or girth-hitching) slings<br />
around natural anchors such as trees<br />
or rocks. A hiker uses the safety line for<br />
balance just like he would the handrail on<br />
a staircase.<br />
Fix the rope end with a figure 8 on a bight,<br />
and, if terrain dictates, use a butterfly<br />
knot or Munter knot for mid-line (horizontal<br />
redirect) anchor points.<br />
1<br />
2 3<br />
Butterfly knot<br />
Tying off a Munter knot<br />
Do not use withou<br />
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