UIAA-Handbook_FLIP__

5.6.
How to haul an injured climber out of a crevasse
Mechanical-advantage hauling systems
With a two-person rope team, a single
climber alone on the surface will have
a hard time hauling up her partner. She
must therefore use a hauling system with
significant mechanical advantage.
Even with a team of three or more climbers,
it’s best to implement a «Triple
Mariner»-type hauling system to bring
up an incapacitated climber. This system
gives a theoretical mechanical advantage
of 7:1. However, once you factor in
friction, especially if using only carabiners
(no pulleys), the actual mechanical
advantage is closer to 2:1.
The 7:1 Triple Mariner is used when:
The victim is unconscious or incapacitated.
Communication is impossible.
The victim doesn’t know self-rescue
technique.
Required equipment
1 progress-capture pulley (head of the
hauling system).
Two simple ascending devices (mechanical
or cordage).
4 locking carabiners.
5 to 10 m of 6 mm cord, or extra rope.
2 additional pulleys, if available.
The Triple Mariner requires
5 to 10 m of 6 mm cord,
or extra rope. Using pulleys
helps reduce friction.
Do not use withou
312 -
The sling prevents
the rope from digging
into the snow. Once
the victim reaches
the lip, pull on the rope
with the sling to help
him up and over,
onto flatter ground.