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Warning<br />

The practice of alpine activities and the<br />

use of technical equipment are inherently<br />

dangerous and may result in severe injury<br />

or death. Specific training by a qualified<br />

instructor on the use of technical equipment<br />

is essential. You are responsible for your own<br />

actions and decisions.<br />

This handbook is intended for hikers, climbers<br />

and mountaineers who wish to expand the<br />

practice of their favourite activity by acquiring<br />

additional skills and knowledge. It has been<br />

developed specifically as a reference for<br />

instructors and future trip leaders in clubs and<br />

mountain organizations within the International<br />

Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. To<br />

name the trainees or the mountaineers, the<br />

pronouns «he» or «she» will be used alternately<br />

throughout the book randomly without gender<br />

stereotype.<br />

The handbook does not pretend to provide<br />

the only acceptable, nor the best, techniques.<br />

Techniques other than those recommended<br />

here may be equally valid or required at some<br />

future date. Individual practitioners’ physical<br />

skills and coordination also have their limits,<br />

potentially requiring more complete risk<br />

analyses in certain cases. The purpose of<br />

this handbook is to present tried-and-true<br />

techniques that can be learned and mastered<br />

Caution!<br />

only through formal training. Despite the care<br />

with which this handbook has been compiled,<br />

it may contain errors or inaccuracies, making<br />

a critical eye and professional mentoring<br />

indispensable.<br />

In the margins beside the illustrations,<br />

the danger sign draws the reader’s attention<br />

to any maneuver or incorrect equipment<br />

usage that could result in injurious or fatal<br />

consequences.<br />

The information provided is not exhaustive.<br />

Consult each manufacturer’s product manual<br />

for any recommended piece of equipment.<br />

Everyone is responsible for his or her<br />

actions and decisions. Before heading into the<br />

mountains and using technical equipment,<br />

each participant must:<br />

– Read and understand all instructions pertaining<br />

to proper equipment use;<br />

– Receive proper training on how to use the<br />

equipment;<br />

– Familiarize him- or herself with the<br />

equipment; know its performance capabilities<br />

and limitations; and,<br />

– Understand and accept all risks associated<br />

with the use of this equipment.<br />

Ignoring any of the above warnings may<br />

result in severe or fatal injuries.<br />

© <strong>UIAA</strong> - Petzl Foundation<br />

First English Edition – Legal registration, Septembre 2013<br />

ISBN 978-0-920330-69-2<br />

Rights: All rights reserved by <strong>UIAA</strong> and Petzl Foundation.<br />

Partial or complete reproduction of this work via printing, electronic or mechanical<br />

duplication of any kind is strictly prohibited. Authorization for the reproduction or<br />

use of the text or illustration is provided by the Petzl Foundation.<br />

Contributor on page 330.<br />

Printed in Canada by McCallum Printing Group Inc.<br />

Cover photo: Jean-François Hagenmuller.<br />

Alpinists climbing the Aiguille D’Argentière, Mont-Blanc, France.<br />

V

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