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Times of the Islands Summer 2016

Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.

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TIMES<br />

OF THE<br />

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER <strong>2016</strong> NO. 115<br />

LET THE SUN SHINE<br />

FortisTCI solar energy program<br />

THE IN-BETWEEN YEARS<br />

Middle school options expand<br />

TAKING BACK HISTORY<br />

TCI Swim Federation<br />

ISLANDS


AT<br />

A luxury condo and villa resort community<br />

The Perfect Combination...<br />

The privacy <strong>of</strong> a luxury villa<br />

The convenience <strong>of</strong> a penthouse<br />

• Located on exclusive Long Bay Beach<br />

• The security <strong>of</strong> a full service resort<br />

• Full access to resort amenities<br />

• The opportunity to earn rental<br />

Villa<br />

income<br />

Frontage<br />

A “10 Best Island Beaches Around <strong>the</strong> World”<br />

- Condé Nast Travellers List<br />

www.TheShoreClubTC.com<br />

“Future Location <strong>of</strong> Villas”<br />

Award winning developer <strong>of</strong> luxury<br />

beachfront condos for over a decade.


Happily ever after starts here.<br />

Celebrate your love with <strong>the</strong> ones you love.<br />

R e s o r t s<br />

by Sandals<br />

TURKS & CAICOS • JAMAICA<br />

The day you’ve dreamt <strong>of</strong> your entire life should<br />

be shared with <strong>the</strong> people who mean <strong>the</strong> most<br />

to you, and at Beaches ® , your dreams come true.<br />

After you say “I do,” you get <strong>the</strong> honeymoon <strong>of</strong> a<br />

lifetime while your guests enjoy <strong>the</strong>ir own vacation,<br />

with every land and water sport, waterparks, and<br />

Gourmet Discovery Dining at up to 21 restaurants.<br />

Begin your new life toge<strong>the</strong>r at Beaches, because<br />

when everything is included, anything is possible.<br />

BEACHES.COM/WEDDINGMOONS • 1-877-BEACHES • or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD<br />

®<br />

WEDDING &<br />

HONEYMOON<br />

BEACHES<br />

FREE* BEAUTIFUL<br />

BEGINNINGS<br />

WEDDING WITH<br />

A THREE-<br />

NIGHT STAY<br />

*<br />

OR MORE!<br />

INVITE FAMILY &<br />

FRIENDS AND THE<br />

HONEYMOON IS<br />

FREE*, TOO!<br />

*Visit www.sandals.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandssummer<strong>2016</strong> or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms and conditions.


Did you know you can now<br />

connect to <strong>the</strong> power grid?<br />

C.O.R.E.<br />

Customer Owned Renewable Energy<br />

U.O.R.E.<br />

Utility Owned Renewable Energy<br />

Uses your own Solar PV systems up to 10 kW in<br />

size for residential customers<br />

Offset <strong>the</strong> cost <strong>of</strong> generation<br />

Leading <strong>the</strong><br />

Green-Energy<br />

Revolution<br />

FortisTCI covers installation, maintenance, and<br />

ownership <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>top Solar PV system<br />

Rent your ro<strong>of</strong>top to FortisTCI and receive credit<br />

Stop by one <strong>of</strong> our <strong>of</strong>fices or visit us online for details about how<br />

you can participate in our Solar Energy Programs!!<br />

www.fortistci.com | 649-946-4313 | 1030<br />

Leeward HWY, Providenciales, TCI


The cool side <strong>of</strong> classic.<br />

7 2 W E S T<br />

T H E S P A<br />

P A R A L L E L 2 3<br />

The Palms (formerly Regent Palms) may totally inhabit <strong>the</strong> role <strong>of</strong><br />

an elegant, luxurious, award-winning resort, but beneath that cultivated<br />

exterior beats an untamed heart. Parallel23 sprinkles every dish<br />

with a dash <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> unexpected. 72West <strong>of</strong>fers you <strong>the</strong> moon and <strong>the</strong> stars.<br />

Whimsy rules at The Palms Courtyard Shops featuring Wish Boutique.<br />

And your senses are utterly seduced at The Spa at The Palms.<br />

Feel free to visit and indulge your inner wild child in all we have to <strong>of</strong>fer.<br />

THE PALMS, LAID -BACK LU XE .<br />

649.946.8666 | <strong>the</strong>palmstc.com<br />

W I S H B O U T I Q U E


contents<br />

Departments<br />

10 From <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />

15 Getting to Know<br />

Crossing Africa Update<br />

Compiled by Claire Parrish<br />

Photos By Mario Rigby<br />

48 Business<br />

Let <strong>the</strong> Sun Shine . . .<br />

By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos Courtesy FortisTCI<br />

64 Sporting Life<br />

Taking Back History: TCI Swim Federation<br />

By Ben Stubenberg<br />

71 Shape Up<br />

Footprints in <strong>the</strong> Sand<br />

By Dr. Rodney A. Kander<br />

Keeping Your Hair Healthy in <strong>the</strong> Sun<br />

By Brigitte Wildt<br />

73 Faces & Places<br />

“Food for Thought” Launch<br />

By Claire Parrish ~ Photos By TCI Sun<br />

74 Resort Report<br />

Can You Keep a Secret?<br />

East Bay Resort, South Caicos<br />

Story & Photos By John Galleymore<br />

80 About <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>/TCI Map<br />

85 Where to Stay<br />

87 Dining Out<br />

90 Classified Ads/Subscription Form<br />

Features<br />

32 Shades <strong>of</strong> Gray<br />

By Felix Thomson<br />

38 The In-Between Years<br />

By Kathy Borsuk<br />

TIMES<br />

OF THE<br />

ISLANDS<br />

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER <strong>2016</strong> NO. 115<br />

On <strong>the</strong> Cover<br />

Felix Thomson first came to Grand Turk 22 years ago<br />

when his mo<strong>the</strong>r Sue moved <strong>the</strong>re from <strong>the</strong> UK to marry<br />

Xavier Tonneau, known locally as “X.” As a photographer<br />

intrigued with working in black and white, Felix<br />

spent years shooting <strong>the</strong> island’s scenes. Shown here<br />

is his image <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> replica <strong>of</strong> John Glenn’s Friendship 7<br />

space capsule outside <strong>the</strong> JAGS McCartney International<br />

Airport in Grand Turk. For more, see “Shades <strong>of</strong> Gray,”<br />

on page 32.<br />

Visit Felix’s website at: www.felixthomson.biz.<br />

Green Pages<br />

20 Caving in for Science<br />

By Michael Lace, John Mylroie, Nancy Albury,<br />

and Joan Mylroie<br />

27 Young Scientists<br />

By Heidi Hertler, Lily Zhao, Claire Gonzales,<br />

and Chris Casaclang ~ Photos By Heidi Hertler<br />

15<br />

Astrolabe<br />

54 I’ll Send You a Postcard<br />

By Jeffrey C. Dodge<br />

57 A Lucky Find<br />

Story & Photos By Nikki Jennings<br />

MARIO RIGBY<br />

6 www.timespub.tc


Turks And Caicos<br />

TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />

Real Estate<br />

Mandalay Villa<br />

Ocean View Villa<br />

Completed in 2012 this one-<strong>of</strong>-a-kind estate on sought<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

sumptuous furnishings. There’s nothing like it!<br />

US$12,500,000<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

area <strong>of</strong> Richmond Hills and just a short distance to <strong>the</strong><br />

beach, shopping, restaurants and Turtle Cove Marina.<br />

<br />

rental property.<br />

US$1,095,000<br />

Bernadette Hunt<br />

cell ~ 649 231 4029 | tel ~ 649 941 3361<br />

Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

conveyancing, immigration, licensing, company<br />

and trust formation and estate planning. In 2000<br />

<br />

(“TCP”) taking <strong>the</strong> lead on sales and dividing<br />

<br />

Villas at Grace Bay Club<br />

Suite D101/02 is a beachfront condo situated on<br />

<br />

exposure. Featuring an expansive 2790 sq. ft. <strong>of</strong> living<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Spa and 3 on site gourmet restaurants and bars.<br />

US$1,899,000<br />

Grace Bay Development Site<br />

<br />

Renaissance. Suitable for condo development (resort<br />

or residential), a boutique hotel or for an estate home in<br />

<br />

<br />

location. A resurgent tourism industry and a busy real<br />

<br />

US$6,000,000<br />

Long Bay Beachfront<br />

This 2 acre <strong>of</strong> pristine beachfront property has over<br />

155ft. <strong>of</strong> frontage and is located on <strong>the</strong> most desirable<br />

<br />

doubt <strong>the</strong> number one destination in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean for<br />

kiteboarders. This site can be developed to accommodate<br />

a luxury villa or if catering to <strong>the</strong> kiteboarding<br />

community you can construct multiple villas as a micro<br />

resort.<br />

US$2,900,000<br />

Grace Bay Beach House<br />

<br />

<br />

your doorstep, snorkeling on Smith’s Reef right in front<br />

and v. close to Turtle Cove Marina, restaurants and<br />

<br />

<br />

vacation rental - enquire for info on earnings.<br />

US$2,950,000<br />

<br />

<br />

real estate business. Since <strong>the</strong>n, based on<br />

<br />

<br />

buyer) exceeding US$100 million. Her gross<br />

<br />

<br />

experience and up-to-<strong>the</strong>-minute information<br />

provides a platform for quality service that you<br />

can count on every time.<br />

TCP is <strong>the</strong> leading independent real estate<br />

<br />

Bay Rd. and at Ocean Club West Resort. TCP’s<br />

reputation and success has been earned over<br />

time through <strong>the</strong> dedication, enthusiasm and<br />

consistent performance <strong>of</strong> Bernadette and <strong>the</strong><br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

TCP<br />

TURKS & CAICOS PROPERTY<br />

Boutique Real Estate Brokerage


Turks & Caicos<br />

by Sandals<br />

®<br />

Turks & Caicos Resort Villages & Spa<br />

by Sandals<br />

MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY<br />

OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD


VOTED WORLD’S BEST<br />

ALL-INCLUSIVE FAMILY RESORTS<br />

BEACHES ® Turks & Caicos, <strong>the</strong> last <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> true exotics, includes absolutely everything your clients could think<br />

<strong>of</strong> for <strong>the</strong> ultimate family vacation. A thrilling 45,000-square-foot waterpark with 10 water slides and a surf<br />

simulator. Fabulous land and water sports including unlimited waterskiing and scuba diving * . PADI even<br />

named Beaches Resorts one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> top fi ve dive operations in <strong>the</strong> Western Hemisphere. Superb Gourmet<br />

Discovery Dining at 21 restaurants, and 14 bars serving unlimited premium spirits for adults. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

island entertainment for everyone. Cool hangouts for teens and Sesame Street ® fun and games for <strong>the</strong><br />

kids. Complimentary accredited nannies for all ages, all day and into <strong>the</strong> night. Beautifully appointed<br />

family-sized rooms, suites, and villas, some even with butler service. Take a closer look at Beaches<br />

Turks & Caicos and see why we continue to enjoy an unparalleled record <strong>of</strong> award-winning success.<br />

Visit WWW.BEACHES.COM, call 1-888-BEACHES or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/btctimes<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandssummer<strong>2016</strong> or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms and conditions.


from <strong>the</strong> editor<br />

MARTA MORTON–WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />

This is <strong>the</strong> pristine beach in front <strong>of</strong> Sibonné hotel on Grace Bay.<br />

Learn from Our Mistakes<br />

I grew up in <strong>the</strong> era when Lake Erie was declared “dead,” chemical slicks caused rivers to catch fire, and our<br />

hometown Salt Creek smelled like rotten eggs—my parents warned us not to touch <strong>the</strong> water or anything near it.<br />

Maybe that’s why <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>’ crystal-clear turquoise seas, reefs replete with marine life, and stunning<br />

natural beauty have always touched me so deeply. It is something long gone from <strong>the</strong> lives <strong>of</strong> many North Americans.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> received an overwhelming (relative to our small circulation!) response to <strong>the</strong> Spring issue<br />

editorial depicting <strong>the</strong> proposed and controversial 12 story development on Grace Bay Beach. The readers who wrote<br />

in, typically expatriates like me who now call <strong>the</strong> country home or plan to in <strong>the</strong> future, universally felt that this was<br />

not a good idea, and some said it would stop <strong>the</strong>m from returning.<br />

At press time, <strong>the</strong>re is a similar controversy brewing over <strong>the</strong> proposed “Dolphin Cove” captive dolphin project in<br />

Grand Turk. Again, it seems government is making it difficult to find out what is happening behind <strong>the</strong> scenes. Now<br />

some might say that I, and o<strong>the</strong>rs who are not true “sons <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> soil,” have no right to an opinion on such issues.<br />

But please know that our message, out <strong>of</strong> love and concern for TCI, is “cherish what you have, DON’T repeat our<br />

mistakes.”<br />

As I write this on TCI’s National Heroes Day, one <strong>of</strong> MY heroes, Pastor Bradley Handfield, spoke to <strong>the</strong> holiday<br />

assembly <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> need for unity among <strong>the</strong> people <strong>of</strong> this country in coming toge<strong>the</strong>r to create and execute a longterm<br />

plan for its future—a plan that cannot be usurped by political, economic, or social pressures. This plan would<br />

protect <strong>the</strong> TCI’s abundant natural resources and ensure that development is controlled, thought-out, and beneficial<br />

to all Turks & Caicos Islanders . . . and <strong>the</strong> generations to come.<br />

Kathy Borsuk, Editor<br />

timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788<br />

10 www.timespub.tc


WHERE<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

IS ALWAYS<br />

INCLUSIVE


The new Sandals ® Barbados is <strong>the</strong> most exclusive Sandals resort<br />

ever created in a jetsetters’ playground. Sandals Barbados<br />

brings five-star luxury to this chic playground with <strong>the</strong> finest<br />

<strong>of</strong> everything included. Unlimited land and water sports,<br />

including scuba diving * . Dining at 11 outstanding gourmet<br />

restaurants. Premium spirits served all day and all night. And<br />

stylishly appointed suites with spacious patios and balconies<br />

many featuring Tranquility Soaking Tubs for two with privacy<br />

curtains – a new Sandals signature. The new Sandals Barbados.<br />

Distinctively chic. Decidedly luxurious. Unmistakably Sandals.<br />

Share Your #NoWorryMoment<br />

VISIT WWW.SANDALS.COM, CALL 1-888-SANDALS<br />

OR CALL YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL<br />

MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY<br />

OTHER RESORTS ON THE PLANET<br />

Visit www.sandals.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandssummer<strong>2016</strong> or<br />

call 1-800-SANDALS for important terms and conditions.


RASHAWDESIGNS.com<br />

TIMES<br />

MANAGING EDITOR<br />

Kathy Borsuk<br />

OF THE<br />

ISLANDS<br />

ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />

Claire Parrish<br />

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />

Nancy Albury, Kathy Borsuk, Chris Casaclang,<br />

Jeffrey C. Dodge, John Galleymore, Claire Gonzales,<br />

Heidi Hertler, Nikki Jennings, Dr. Rodney A. Kander,<br />

Michael Lace, Dr. Donald H. Keith, John & Joan Mylroie,<br />

Claire Parrish, Pat Saxton, Ben Stubenberg, Brigitte Wildt,<br />

Candianne Williams, Lily Zhao.<br />

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />

Digital Handprint, FortisTCI Ltd., Heidi Hertler,<br />

Nikki Jennings, John Galleymore, Dr. Donald H. Keith,<br />

Dwyane Krzanowski, Michael Lace, Morgan Luker, Krys &<br />

Grace Mann, Marta Morton, John Mylroie, David O’Connell,<br />

Claire Parrish, Provo Primary School, Mario Rigby,<br />

Daphne Roots, Pat Saxton, Jill Swann,<br />

Abbie Fentress Swanson, TCI Sun, Felix Thomson,<br />

Vivian Tyson, Candianne Williams.<br />

Love your home<br />

AWARD-WINNING CUSTOM HOME DESIGN<br />

Award-winning architecture firm RA Shaw Designs<br />

has created some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most sophisticated and<br />

technologically advanced luxury properties<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean. Recently voted<br />

“The Best Architecture & Design<br />

Company <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Year”<br />

for <strong>the</strong> second consecutive year by Caribbean<br />

World Magazine, our team specializes in creating<br />

a unique sense <strong>of</strong> place by integrating building<br />

techniques and architectural details with <strong>the</strong><br />

surrounding culture so that you too can<br />

love your home.<br />

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS<br />

Wavey Line Publishing<br />

PRINTING<br />

Franklin-Dodd Communications, Hialeah, FL<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> ISSN 1017-6853 is<br />

published quarterly by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd.<br />

Copyright © <strong>2016</strong> by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd. All rights reserved<br />

under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions.<br />

No part <strong>of</strong> this publication may be<br />

reproduced without written permission.<br />

Subscriptions $28/year; $32/year for<br />

non-U.S. mailing addresses<br />

Submissions We welcome submission <strong>of</strong> articles or photography, but<br />

assume no responsibility for care and return <strong>of</strong> unsolicited material.<br />

Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no<br />

event shall any writer or photographer subject this magazine to any<br />

claim for holding fees or damage charges on unsolicited material.<br />

While every care has been taken in <strong>the</strong> compilation and reproduction <strong>of</strong><br />

information contained herein to ensure correctness, such information is<br />

subject to change without notice. The publisher accepts no<br />

responsibility for such alterations or for typographical or o<strong>the</strong>r errors.<br />

Business Office<br />

<strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd., P.O. Box 234,<br />

Lucille Lightbourne Building #1,<br />

Providenciales, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />

Tel/Fax 649 946 4788<br />

Advertising 649 231 7527<br />

E-mail timespub@tciway.tc<br />

Web: www.timespub.tc<br />

CASCADE VILLA IS AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL: bit.ly/236CPDQ<br />

14 www.timespub.tc


getting to know<br />

Clockwise from top: Mario Rigby is at <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rnmost tip <strong>of</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn Africa, where <strong>the</strong> view, <strong>the</strong> smell, and <strong>the</strong> sensation were incredible.<br />

After <strong>the</strong> New Year, Mario walked through forest, jungle, and sand dunes to reach Port Elizabeth. Along <strong>the</strong> way, he experienced <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />

highest bungee jump!<br />

Crossing Africa Update<br />

The journey from Cape Town to Mozambique.<br />

Compiled by Claire Parrish ~ Photos By Mario Rigby<br />

Mario Rigby, <strong>the</strong> 30 year-old Turks & Caicos Islander–German–Canadian, has made <strong>the</strong> front cover <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

South African Daily Dispatch and South Cape Forum. These and o<strong>the</strong>r publications are covering his solo<br />

expedition by foot across <strong>the</strong> entire African continent (from Cape Town, South Africa to Cairo, Egypt),<br />

to “overcome <strong>the</strong> unknown” by pushing <strong>the</strong> outer limits <strong>of</strong> his body and mind. Mario has crossed South<br />

Africa and aims to continue <strong>the</strong> 12,000 km journey across Mozambique, Malawi, Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda<br />

(possibly), Ethiopia, Eritrea, Sudan and Egypt. He sleeps at <strong>the</strong> homes <strong>of</strong> strangers (whe<strong>the</strong>r couch surfers<br />

or farmers), at backpacker hostels, or camps in <strong>the</strong> wild using his tent.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 15


At press time (late May), Mario is in Mozambique,<br />

which he describes as quite different to South Africa, “evident<br />

as soon as you cross <strong>the</strong> border.” (You can follow<br />

Mario’s journey through Mozambique in our Fall issue<br />

where he expects to face two major concerns—contracting<br />

malaria in <strong>the</strong> bush and running into rebel conflict<br />

zones.)<br />

Below, we glimpse Mario’s months <strong>of</strong> travel by foot<br />

from Cape Point to <strong>the</strong> Mozambique border. It is surreal<br />

even to Mario that he has just crossed an entire African<br />

country by walking. This fantasy has already many participants—<strong>the</strong><br />

hundreds <strong>of</strong> people who have met him or<br />

walked with him along <strong>the</strong> way.<br />

Mario’s South Africa journey takes him through<br />

<strong>the</strong> Western Cape; Cape Point mainly coastal to Cape<br />

L’Agulhas (<strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rnmost point <strong>of</strong> South Africa). Then<br />

<strong>the</strong> Eastern Cape begins, semi-arid in <strong>the</strong> west, rainforest<br />

in <strong>the</strong> east. Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> province is hilly to very mountainous<br />

past Port Elizabeth and before Durban. What is called<br />

<strong>the</strong> Wild Coast is a section within <strong>the</strong> Eastern Cape from<br />

East London to <strong>the</strong> border <strong>of</strong> KwaZulu-Natal fur<strong>the</strong>r north.<br />

It is <strong>the</strong> traditional home <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Xhosa people, and <strong>the</strong><br />

birthplace <strong>of</strong> many prominent South Africans, including<br />

Nelson Mandela and Thabo Mbeki.<br />

This South African journey brought more than hard<br />

walks, river crossings and numb feet. The discrepancies<br />

between rich and poor are great in South Africa, from<br />

slums to mansions. One day in <strong>the</strong> Western Cape, Mario<br />

describes meeting a man who asked in <strong>the</strong> deepest <strong>of</strong><br />

Nigerian accents, “Why are you camping out here?” After<br />

Mario explained his mission, <strong>the</strong> man told him, “We must<br />

pray, this is <strong>the</strong> best thing for <strong>the</strong> black people <strong>of</strong> Africa<br />

I have ever seen.” They joined hands and made a prayer.<br />

Mario writes, “I’m in South Africa and I’m a black<br />

man. I’ve encountered <strong>the</strong> hard stares among ‘coloureds’<br />

(mixed race) and ‘whites.’ It’s never bo<strong>the</strong>red me because<br />

I don’t see it as a mental problem <strong>of</strong> mine but <strong>the</strong>irs. They<br />

are in constant guard, fear or hate. Some may be just<br />

curious, so I don’t judge.” The war <strong>of</strong> apar<strong>the</strong>id, where<br />

whites and blacks fought against each o<strong>the</strong>r in this country<br />

was merely 20 years ago. Even today, having walked<br />

nearly 500 km, Mario has hardly seen any black people<br />

except for farm workers and o<strong>the</strong>r hard labourers. But no<br />

one has been rude or disrespectful. He’s even had a Braai<br />

dinner with a man who was in <strong>the</strong> war against <strong>the</strong> blacks.<br />

The past is real but Mario’s journey points out what is<br />

happening now.<br />

Of course <strong>the</strong>re are game reserves en route and <strong>the</strong><br />

Garden Route Game Reserve sponsored a tour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

reserve, where Mario learnt a lot about <strong>the</strong> “Big Five,” <strong>the</strong><br />

most sought after trophy animals.<br />

As amazing as Mario found <strong>the</strong>se animals, his journey<br />

was about more than being a touring visitor. Mario<br />

had roads to conquer. He wrote about fear as he conquered<br />

<strong>the</strong> N2 national road, probably one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />

dangerous in <strong>the</strong> world. “Fear will give you a sensation<br />

unlike any o<strong>the</strong>r—to feel alive. Conquering fear gives you<br />

courage, courage gives you pride, and pride gives you a<br />

sense <strong>of</strong> self and purpose.”<br />

Safety was on Mario’s mind. “At every turn I was playing<br />

Russian roulette with my life.” He walked on open<br />

roads that span slums, cities, towns, and game reserves.<br />

Some people along <strong>the</strong> route spread word <strong>of</strong> Mario so<br />

that o<strong>the</strong>rs could look out for him and he alerted <strong>the</strong><br />

police about his journey, ending up with an <strong>of</strong>ficial letter<br />

informing police patrol units <strong>of</strong> his expedition and allowing<br />

him to cross through reserves with permission. The<br />

letter came as a breakthrough at a time he’d spent days<br />

struggling to deal with having his wallet stolen by kids.<br />

But Mario says, “Getting to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rnmost tip <strong>of</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

Africa was completely worth it. The view, <strong>the</strong> smell<br />

and sensation was incredible. A fellow German roommate<br />

from that night’s hostel spent hours trekking <strong>the</strong> coast<br />

and taking photos with me.”<br />

16 www.timespub.tc


Christmas passes and <strong>the</strong> New Year is spent with<br />

fellow travellers. Mario gets messages from friends<br />

encouraging him to consider speaking at future events<br />

in South Africa. With a foreseen journey to Port Elizabeth<br />

mapped out, he soon reached Kwanokuthula and met<br />

Q, a guy from <strong>the</strong> backpacker hostel who showed Mario<br />

around a township; <strong>the</strong> first foreigner to see a particular<br />

time <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> people grid while walking along rivers and<br />

through forests.<br />

Port Elizabeth proved to be a special city stop. He<br />

met and talked at length with <strong>the</strong> Major, and met Glenda<br />

(below left), a special lady who helps those in need in<br />

townships. Both introductions brought home <strong>the</strong> racism<br />

and segregation issues still alive in South Africa today,<br />

subtle enough to seep through <strong>the</strong> law. Here Mario visited<br />

his second major township; he’d seen many smaller. He<br />

noted that his full-time job right now was connecting with<br />

people, living <strong>the</strong>ir culture, and sharing it with <strong>the</strong> world<br />

through his perspective by walking from place to place.<br />

Good job this stop included a delivery <strong>of</strong> new shoes!<br />

ghetto. Mario is touched by township girls with beautiful<br />

hearts applying for school despite <strong>the</strong> challenges young<br />

women face <strong>of</strong> teen-age pregnancy and HIV infection.<br />

The journey continued to <strong>the</strong> world’s highest bungee<br />

jump, as well as mountains <strong>of</strong> sand, river crossings and<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 17


Mario tackled <strong>the</strong> mighty Indian Ocean and its<br />

beaches by attaching a float to his bag and swam with<br />

<strong>the</strong> rope attached. A treacherous two week trek across<br />

15 lagoons for 300 km brought him to East London. Jafta<br />

came to Mario’s rescue. Jafta says, “I was driving from <strong>the</strong><br />

airport when I saw this man walking. He appeared tired<br />

and injured. I stopped my car and after hearing his story,<br />

took him to my house.” Mario recuperated with Jafta for<br />

a few days, whilst speaking at a prestigious lunch on<br />

“Overcoming Fear.”<br />

Little did Mario know what was ahead <strong>of</strong> him on <strong>the</strong><br />

Wild Coast. Mthatha Town would present him <strong>the</strong> greatest<br />

fear to date: that his life could be threatened by people.<br />

“I’m in a small town called Mthana and <strong>the</strong> people here<br />

are not welcoming <strong>of</strong> strangers,” he writes. His introduction<br />

was to see a dead body on <strong>the</strong> roadside and be told<br />

by a local, “They will rob you <strong>the</strong>n kill you and leave your<br />

body on <strong>the</strong> street.” Someone who knew Mario and <strong>the</strong><br />

area messaged him: “Just respect <strong>the</strong> people and <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

fears. Be cautious and know who to contact in case <strong>of</strong><br />

emergency. Xenophobia is mostly aimed at people taking<br />

jobs from locals and encroaching on <strong>the</strong>ir turf. Generally<br />

people are not hostile.”<br />

Mario trekked through <strong>the</strong> Wild Coast’s forest hills<br />

to Port St. John before Durban on paths that <strong>the</strong> local<br />

Xhosa people would take. “Some days are nine hour<br />

hikes through forest, jungle, and mountains. Been taking<br />

bigger risks, climbing major cliffs, crossing forests<br />

in hopes that animal/human treks lead me to <strong>the</strong> right<br />

place.” Mario saw many homes <strong>of</strong> rural South Africa in<br />

Bulungula, Eastern Cape, where people <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> villages<br />

With phone and camera ruined on a tough river<br />

crossing, an eco-lodge “done right” was <strong>the</strong> oasis Mario<br />

needed at Mtentu Lodge and Camp, en route to Durban<br />

via <strong>the</strong> coast. At Margate <strong>the</strong>re was <strong>the</strong> expected “Simba<br />

moment” (below) photographed on <strong>the</strong> edge <strong>of</strong> Leopard’s<br />

Rock with o<strong>the</strong>rs who too enjoyed <strong>the</strong> fun. During river<br />

crossing hike rests Mario’s most common thoughts were<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people he’d met so far—children who had helped<br />

him find his way through villages and people who had<br />

given <strong>the</strong>ir hospitality.<br />

lived as <strong>the</strong>y had thousands <strong>of</strong> years ago. After climbing<br />

cliffs and steep hills, Mario found Mjokelwa’s house.<br />

Mjokelwa (opposite page, top) greeted him with <strong>the</strong> kindest<br />

smile. Every day this super-human older man climbed<br />

<strong>the</strong>se steep hills to sell his eggs and chickens. He also<br />

had children and grandchildren to take care <strong>of</strong>.<br />

In Durban, with new friends, what seemed like a crazy<br />

idea arose—to longboard 80 km in two days. Major accidents,<br />

set-backs, crocodile, shark, and hippo warnings<br />

and near-death experiences were all part <strong>of</strong> longboarding<br />

from Richard’s Bay to St. Lucia. One <strong>of</strong> Mario’s final vis-<br />

18 www.timespub.tc


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its in South Africa was to a school in Hluhluwe near <strong>the</strong><br />

border <strong>of</strong> Mozambique. Mario had visited many schools<br />

along <strong>the</strong> way. When at a primary school in Cintsa, Eastern<br />

Cape, he wrote, “The question is not can you help an<br />

entire planet from disparity, but whom you can inspire<br />

individually to thrive.”<br />

After crossing<br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 19


green pages<br />

newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

head <strong>of</strong>fice: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895<br />

• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710<br />

• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales<br />

parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793<br />

fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793<br />

email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web www.environment.tc<br />

Conch Bar Cave in Middle Caicos includes many large stalactite-stalagmite columns such as <strong>the</strong> one in this passage.<br />

Caving In for Science<br />

TCI’s cave system helps researchers understand local geology.<br />

By Michael J. Lace, John E. Mylroie, Nancy A. Albury, and Joan R. Mylroie, Coastal Cave Survey<br />

Photos By John E. Mylroie and Michael J. Lace ~ Figures By Coastal Cave Survey<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are well known for beautiful beaches and sparkling turquoise seas. Did you<br />

know that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> also have a unique and interesting underworld? It is made up <strong>of</strong> caves that contain<br />

beauty, history, and a fascinating geologic record.<br />

20 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

The origins <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> exist today because <strong>the</strong> rocks as ice. The drop in sea level has been as much as 125 m<br />

that form <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> have been made by living organisms, (410 ft) during a glaciation; during an interglacial slightly<br />

both plant and animal, that precipitate calcium carbonate<br />

(CaCO 3 ), <strong>the</strong> compound that becomes limestone. (20 ft) above today’s level as more ice had melted.<br />

warmer than today, sea level has been as much as 6 m<br />

The chemistry that allows <strong>the</strong> precipitation <strong>of</strong> calcium When a glaciation is occurring, and sea level is down<br />

carbonate also allows it to be dissolved later by moving by 100 meters or more, all <strong>the</strong> shallow banks <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />

water. As a result, <strong>the</strong> bedrock surface becomes jagged are exposed as dry land, with steep cliffs down to <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />

and irregular, forming pits that carry water downward to All <strong>the</strong> current islands on <strong>the</strong> Caicos Bank: West Caicos,<br />

create caves within <strong>the</strong> freshwater lenses that underlie Providenciales, North Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos,<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Each island has its own separate lens. South Caicos, <strong>the</strong> Ambergris Cays, and all <strong>the</strong> smaller<br />

The deposition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> limestone that is <strong>the</strong> TCI’s islands and cays, become one large island. Grand Turk,<br />

foundation and <strong>the</strong> subsequent dissolution <strong>of</strong> those rocks Salt Cay, Sand Cay and associated islands and cays are on<br />

has been controlled over <strong>the</strong> last several million years a separate bank and also become a single large island.<br />

by a series <strong>of</strong> natural climatic events known (in layman’s Glaciations last about 100,000 years, <strong>the</strong> interglacials<br />

terms), as <strong>the</strong> Ice Ages (called<br />

glaciations by geologists). The<br />

time between glaciations, as<br />

currently exists in <strong>the</strong> world<br />

today, are called interglacials.<br />

During a glaciation, snowfall<br />

in <strong>the</strong> high latitudes <strong>of</strong><br />

Europe and North America<br />

fails to melt completely each<br />

summer, and that snow accumulates<br />

into thick piles <strong>of</strong><br />

ice, which expand and move<br />

southward as ice sheets. The<br />

natural trigger for this process<br />

is a subtle change in <strong>the</strong><br />

This graph shows <strong>the</strong> variance in sea level over <strong>the</strong> last 1/2 million years.<br />

earth’s orbit about <strong>the</strong> sun that<br />

leads to slightly cooler temperatures that promote snow last only about 10,000 years, but during that short time<br />

survival, but also changing wea<strong>the</strong>r patterns that increase window (in <strong>the</strong> geologic sense), <strong>the</strong> geology <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />

<strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> snow at high latitudes. These orbital becomes established.<br />

changes, called <strong>the</strong> Milankovitch cycle, are <strong>the</strong> result <strong>of</strong> When sea level rises as ice sheets melt back, <strong>the</strong> tops<br />

slight cyclical changes in how circular <strong>the</strong> earth’s orbit <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> banks become flooded with sea water. The lagoons<br />

is, how much axial tilt exists, and how <strong>the</strong> precession <strong>of</strong> form, and <strong>the</strong> corals, conchs, starfish, algae and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

<strong>the</strong> earth’s axis changes <strong>the</strong> equinoxes. The end result organisms begin to flourish and create calcium carbonate,<br />

primarily as reef structures and skeletons. Over time<br />

<strong>of</strong> ice accumulation as glaciers is a fall in sea level as<br />

<strong>the</strong> evaporated ocean water is stored on <strong>the</strong> continents <strong>the</strong>se skeletal features degrade as <strong>the</strong> organisms die, and<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 21


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

<strong>the</strong> calcium carbonate is released, much <strong>of</strong> it as sandsized<br />

particles that eventually wash landward to become<br />

beaches. Once on <strong>the</strong> beach, <strong>the</strong> wind can sweep up <strong>the</strong>se<br />

sands to make dunes, called eolian calcarenites, which<br />

means literally “windblown calcium carbonate sand.”<br />

All land in <strong>the</strong> TCI above about 6 m (20 ft) is eolian<br />

calcarenite. In <strong>the</strong> lagoon, sands are deposited along with<br />

<strong>the</strong> coral reefs. When sea level is higher than today, as<br />

it was 120,000 years ago during <strong>the</strong> previous interglacial,<br />

<strong>the</strong>se lagoon deposits were placed where we can see<br />

<strong>the</strong>m now, as what was under shallow water <strong>the</strong>n is above<br />

sea level today. Fossil reefs and related lagoon features<br />

are found all over <strong>the</strong> TCI a few meters above modern sea<br />

level. These all formed 120,000 years ago, a time called<br />

<strong>the</strong> last interglacial.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> exposed land existing today, and across <strong>the</strong><br />

entire exposed banks when sea level is low during a glaciation,<br />

soils form. The TCI is a 100% calcium carbonate<br />

environment (NaCl, halite, and CaSO 4 •2H 2 O, gypsum,<br />

called evaporate minerals, are sometimes found). The<br />

soils are red, brown or tan because <strong>the</strong>y contain iron<br />

oxides, plus o<strong>the</strong>r oxides such as Al 2 O 3 , that arrive on<br />

<strong>the</strong> bank as wind-blown dust all <strong>the</strong> way from <strong>the</strong> Sahara<br />

Desert. When <strong>the</strong>se soils become fossilized, <strong>the</strong>y turn<br />

into a very hard and dense crust called a terra rossa<br />

paleosol. These paleosols cover all <strong>the</strong> rocks that formed<br />

on interglacials older than today. The young eolian calcarenites<br />

that have formed in <strong>the</strong> past few thousand years<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> current interglacial are too young to have collected<br />

significant Saharan dust, and so lack a thick red soil. The<br />

coastal rocks <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cays from Little Water Cay north to<br />

Parrot Cay are all eolian calcarenites and related rocks<br />

less than 5,000 years old.<br />

The geology <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI is simple. When sea level is<br />

high and <strong>the</strong> bank tops are flooded, a variety <strong>of</strong> limestones<br />

are made. When sea level is low, for a duration ten<br />

times longer than for sea level highstands, <strong>the</strong> main geological<br />

events are erosion and soil formation. There have<br />

been ten or more cycles <strong>of</strong> glaciation and interglacials<br />

during <strong>the</strong> last two million years, and <strong>the</strong> rocks produced<br />

by <strong>the</strong> last three or four cycles are preserved as dry land<br />

in <strong>the</strong> TCI today. The only fossil reefs and related lagoon<br />

deposits found today formed 120,000 years ago. Such<br />

deposits from earlier high sea levels have not been found.<br />

Ei<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> sea level wasn’t above modern, <strong>the</strong> platform has<br />

subsided slightly, or those deposits have eroded away.<br />

Top: Eolianite can be seen in this road cut near Lorimers, Middle<br />

Caicos. Bottom: This close-up shows eolianite in a road cut near Long<br />

Bay, Providenciales.<br />

Top: This fossil coral was found on <strong>the</strong> Crossing Place Trail in Middle<br />

Caicos. Bottom: This close-up shows fossil conch shells.<br />

22 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

How TCI’s caves were formed<br />

So what about <strong>the</strong> caves? They are tied to <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong><br />

sea levels as well. The caves in <strong>the</strong> TCI form by three<br />

different methods. The dissolution <strong>of</strong> a soluble bedrock<br />

produces unique landforms and underground flow systems<br />

called karst. The TCI is made entirely <strong>of</strong> limestone,<br />

a soluble rock, so <strong>the</strong> TCI is what geologists call a karst<br />

landscape, and caves are a common feature.<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r geological forces, such as waves and wind,<br />

can also attack rock and produce small caves that mimic<br />

caves produced by dissolution. Such features are called<br />

pseudokarst. In <strong>the</strong> TCI, many coastal cliffs have been<br />

attacked by waves to make sea caves (also known as littoral<br />

caves). O<strong>the</strong>r cliffs have spherical pockets known as<br />

tafoni, produced by wind separating <strong>the</strong> grains <strong>of</strong> rock so<br />

that <strong>the</strong>y fall out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cliff. Tafoni can form quickly in<br />

<strong>the</strong> poorly cemented eolian calcarenites found in <strong>the</strong> TCI,<br />

and <strong>the</strong> walls <strong>of</strong> quarries, road cuts, and even <strong>the</strong> eolianite<br />

blocks that make some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> older buildings contain<br />

small tafoni. Both sea caves and tafoni are pseudokarst,<br />

and form simple chambers.<br />

The karst caves <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI form by dissolution in <strong>the</strong><br />

freshwater lens that underlies <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. During <strong>the</strong> last<br />

interglacial (MIS 5e) 120,000 years ago, when sea level<br />

was higher, <strong>the</strong> freshwater lens was also higher in elevation.<br />

Caves dissolved in <strong>the</strong> limestone at that time are<br />

drained and air-filled as sea level is lower today by about<br />

6 m (20 ft). The freshwater lens is called a lens because it<br />

is thick under <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> an island, and thins towards<br />

<strong>the</strong> island margin.<br />

Along <strong>the</strong> lens margin, where it discharges to <strong>the</strong> sea,<br />

fresh water and marine water mix. This mixing process<br />

creates unsaturated water that can dissolve limestone,<br />

even if both <strong>the</strong> fresh and marine water were saturated<br />

before mixing. The process is called mixing dissolution,<br />

and it has created <strong>the</strong> vast majority <strong>of</strong> caves found in <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI today. Because <strong>the</strong>se caves form at <strong>the</strong> margin <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

lens, under <strong>the</strong> flank <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> enclosing landmass, <strong>the</strong>y are<br />

called flank margin caves. Conch Bar Cave, on Middle<br />

Caicos, is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> largest flank margin caves in <strong>the</strong><br />

world with 2.4 km (1.5 miles) <strong>of</strong> mapped passages.<br />

When sea level is low, as for much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> last 2<br />

million years, <strong>the</strong> Caicos Bank, as noted earlier, is one<br />

large island. Large islands behave differently than small<br />

islands, because as islands get larger, <strong>the</strong>ir area increases<br />

faster than does <strong>the</strong> perimeter and <strong>the</strong> discharge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Top: This is a sea cave produced by wave erosion, found in southwest<br />

Providenciales. Bottom: This tafoni, a void produced by wind erosion,<br />

appears in a road cut in Long Bay, Providenciales.<br />

This typical flank margin cave passage, found in Providenciales,<br />

includes <strong>the</strong> presence <strong>of</strong> a bat.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 23


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

water <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> freshwater lens<br />

by diffuse flow to <strong>the</strong> coast is<br />

unable to conduct water efficiently.<br />

Tubular cave conduits<br />

develop, much like water pipes,<br />

to carry <strong>the</strong> flow. These tubes<br />

can be quite large, up to 10<br />

m (33 ft) or more in diameter.<br />

They can become large enough<br />

that <strong>the</strong>ir ro<strong>of</strong>s become unstable<br />

at certain locations, and<br />

collapse occurs. This collapse<br />

can work its way upward until<br />

it breaches <strong>the</strong> surface <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

bank. When sea level rises at <strong>the</strong><br />

end <strong>of</strong> a glaciation, <strong>the</strong>se collapses<br />

become flooded to form<br />

blue holes. Cave divers can go<br />

into <strong>the</strong>se blue holes, and sometimes<br />

are able to enter <strong>the</strong> large,<br />

horizontal caves that developed<br />

during a lower sea level.<br />

The map above depicts a flank margin cave at Blue Horizon Resort in Middle Caicos. The cave has a<br />

cultural feature, <strong>the</strong> stairway, which is included on <strong>the</strong> map, along with symbols that help describe<br />

When sea level was higher what <strong>the</strong> cave contains. The cave has been breached by modern wave erosion and is on its way to<br />

being overprinted by marine processes.<br />

than today during <strong>the</strong> last interglacial,<br />

<strong>the</strong> TCI was a collection <strong>of</strong> islands much smaller contain mineral displays, <strong>the</strong> most common being those<br />

than today, as only <strong>the</strong> eolian calcarenite dune ridges made <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mineral calcite, such as stalactites that hang<br />

were above sea level. In such small islands, diffuse flow from <strong>the</strong> ceiling, and stalagmites that rise up from <strong>the</strong><br />

easily carries <strong>the</strong> water <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lens to <strong>the</strong> island margin, ground, as well as slopes <strong>of</strong> calcite called flowstone. A<br />

and only flank margin caves develop. Even Conch Bar variety <strong>of</strong> exotic minerals can also be found. Stalagmites<br />

Cave, with its huge length, is only a series <strong>of</strong> connected are especially important, as <strong>the</strong>y grow from drip water in<br />

chambers that run along <strong>the</strong> edge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ridge enclosing thin layers, and <strong>the</strong>ir interior looks much like <strong>the</strong> growth<br />

<strong>the</strong> cave; it is not a conduit cave system.<br />

rings found in <strong>the</strong> trunk <strong>of</strong> a tree. These layers can be<br />

These flank margin caves form without entrances; dated, and <strong>the</strong>ir isotopes examined, to study how climate<br />

years later, erosion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hillside, or collapse <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>, changed in <strong>the</strong> past.<br />

may create an entrance. Conch Bar Cave has both types <strong>of</strong> Along <strong>the</strong> coasts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI, especially <strong>the</strong> Crossing<br />

entrances. Indian Cave on Middle Caicos is highly altered Place Trail <strong>of</strong> Middle Caicos, a number <strong>of</strong> flank margin<br />

by collapse and <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> remains as a series <strong>of</strong> arches. caves have been exposed by wave erosion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> high<br />

There may be flank margin caves still intact inside hillsides<br />

today in a completely natural state, unentered by present an interesting problem, as sea cliffs are exactly<br />

dune ridges. The caves are present in sea cliffs, and<br />

humans or bats.<br />

where one would expect to find sea caves produced by<br />

<strong>the</strong> mechanical energy <strong>of</strong> waves and not by dissolving <strong>the</strong><br />

What do TCI’s caves tell us?<br />

rock.<br />

First, <strong>the</strong> mere existence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> caves tells us that sea One useful line <strong>of</strong> evidence is where <strong>the</strong> cave exists<br />

level was once higher. They allow geology to be seen from above <strong>the</strong> tide level, above <strong>the</strong> intertidal notch. Such a<br />

<strong>the</strong> inside, which includes <strong>the</strong> nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rock, and cave could not form by wave energy under current conditions.<br />

These caves also contain eroded how that rock has been altered through time. The caves<br />

stalagmites,<br />

24 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

stalactites, and flowstone, which can only originate<br />

inside caves. The morphology <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cave walls is also<br />

a clue; intricate rock erosion occurs by rock dissolution,<br />

wave energy tends to make smooth walls by brute force.<br />

Juniper Hole, on Middle Caicos, has been described as<br />

<strong>the</strong> largest sea cave in <strong>the</strong> TCI, but it is actually a flank<br />

margin cave that has been over-printed by wave action in<br />

<strong>the</strong> last few thousand years.<br />

The very young eolianites found from Little Water<br />

Cay north to Parrot Cay have numerous small sea caves<br />

formed right at current tide level. These eolianites, as<br />

noted earlier, are very young, too young to contain flank<br />

margin caves from a past interglacial.<br />

Flank margin caves that have opened naturally <strong>of</strong>ten<br />

contain colonies <strong>of</strong> bats. Thick piles <strong>of</strong> bat excretement,<br />

called guano, cover <strong>the</strong> floor <strong>of</strong> many caves. This guano<br />

is a powerful fertilizer, as it contains nitrates and phosphates<br />

needed by plants. Throughout <strong>the</strong> TCI, <strong>the</strong>se<br />

deposits were mined for both local use, and for export<br />

to neighboring countries, primarily <strong>the</strong> USA in <strong>the</strong> late<br />

1800s. The industry collapsed after World War I because<br />

<strong>the</strong> Haber process, a way to make nitrate fertilizer from<br />

<strong>the</strong> nitrogen gas in <strong>the</strong> atmosphere, was commercially<br />

Vandalism has marred Conch Bar Cave (top and bottom left) and Indian Cave (bottom right) in<br />

Middle Caicos.<br />

developed. Bats are critically important in <strong>the</strong> ecology as<br />

<strong>the</strong>y eat insects, and transfer pollen between plants, both<br />

important to people.<br />

Why are caves important?<br />

Caves contain an unusual collection <strong>of</strong> animals that have<br />

adapted to life underground. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se animals lack<br />

eyes and pigment, unnecessary energy expenditures in<br />

a lightless environment (<strong>the</strong> human eye has <strong>the</strong> highest<br />

metabolic rate <strong>of</strong> any organ in <strong>the</strong> body). The food chain<br />

is based on <strong>the</strong> organic material that enters <strong>the</strong> cave.<br />

Sometimes that food is very fine particulate matter that<br />

flows into <strong>the</strong> cave with <strong>the</strong> drip water, o<strong>the</strong>r times it is<br />

larger pieces <strong>of</strong> vegetation that fall down a hole in <strong>the</strong><br />

ceiling, but most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> organic energy comes from <strong>the</strong><br />

bat guano and <strong>the</strong> molds, fungi, and invertebrates that<br />

live on that bat waste. While invertebrate cave life is abundant<br />

in <strong>the</strong> TCI, <strong>the</strong> only vertebrates are cave fish and<br />

bats.<br />

Throughout <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> humans, caves have been<br />

sites for living and for conducting ceremony. Cave paintings<br />

from <strong>the</strong> Pyrenees <strong>of</strong> Europe have been dated to<br />

30,000 years ago. Archeological materials indicate that<br />

<strong>the</strong> Lucayan-Taino culture first<br />

emerged in <strong>the</strong> TCI after AD<br />

700. Some caves were used as<br />

shelters, burial sites or ceremonial<br />

spaces by native Lucayans<br />

well before Columbus reached<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Even today, caves<br />

are used as hurricane shelters,<br />

and in <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> Conch Bar<br />

Cave, as a tourist destination.<br />

The caves are also very<br />

important sites for instruction<br />

about how <strong>the</strong> natural environment<br />

works, and how geological<br />

and biological processes function<br />

in concert to create an<br />

important ecosystem. Conch<br />

Bar Cave is one example <strong>of</strong> how<br />

carefully selected cave sites can<br />

serve as ecotourism destinations<br />

with a delicate balance <strong>of</strong><br />

access and resource preservation.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 25


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

Just as caves provide clues to revealing <strong>the</strong> geologic<br />

past <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, so too can caves <strong>of</strong>fer insights into<br />

how coastal landscapes may change in <strong>the</strong> future. Caves,<br />

coastal land stabilities and water quality are all intimately<br />

connected within a karst landscape, shaping <strong>the</strong> sustainability<br />

<strong>of</strong> future land uses and long-term quality <strong>of</strong> life in<br />

<strong>the</strong> islands.<br />

Preserving TCI’s cave environments<br />

One cannot protect what one does not know <strong>of</strong>. Caves are<br />

incredibly fragile, and human visitation can be detrimental<br />

to <strong>the</strong> caves if not done properly. Some caves show<br />

evidence <strong>of</strong> vandalism, ei<strong>the</strong>r as graffiti, or breaking <strong>of</strong><br />

rock and cave formations. O<strong>the</strong>r caves have suffered from<br />

well-meaning explorers who disturbed bats during nursery<br />

season, or trod over organisms living in <strong>the</strong> cave soil.<br />

Unlike hills, beaches and lagoons, which are landforms<br />

visible to all, caves are cryptic and can be hidden<br />

from any but <strong>the</strong> most intensive investigations. They can<br />

be inadvertently destroyed because <strong>the</strong>y were not known<br />

to exist. The major problem with managing caves as a<br />

resource is not knowing what caves exist, and having a<br />

map and resource inventory <strong>of</strong> those caves. The preservation<br />

and management <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se fragile resources<br />

depends on defining not only <strong>the</strong>ir geologic origins but<br />

also documenting <strong>the</strong> inherent biodiversity and cultural<br />

significance associated with each cave site. a<br />

The authors <strong>of</strong> this<br />

article are part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Coastal Cave Survey<br />

(CCS), an independent<br />

volunteer group<br />

that has traveled <strong>the</strong> world to locate, map, and document<br />

caves found in islands and o<strong>the</strong>r coastal settings. These<br />

data are given to <strong>the</strong> resource managers <strong>of</strong> each area to<br />

allow <strong>the</strong>m to create <strong>the</strong> best management plan for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

resources.<br />

In The Bahamas, CCS has mapped over 400 caves,<br />

with <strong>the</strong> data being delivered to <strong>the</strong> Bahamas National<br />

Trust. Through DEMA, <strong>the</strong>y have begun to examine <strong>the</strong><br />

cave resources <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. The caves<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI are fascinating, with unique features not seen<br />

elsewhere, but <strong>the</strong>re is much more to be learned. For<br />

more information, contact mylroie@geosci.msstate.edu.<br />

26 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

Marine life thrives on a healthy coral reef, like this one <strong>of</strong>f South Caicos . Unfortunately, coral reefs around <strong>the</strong> world, including <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos, face many threats.<br />

Young Scientists<br />

Getting involved studying, monitoring and protecting coral reefs.<br />

By Heidi Hertler, Lily Zhao, Claire Gonzales and Chris Casaclang,<br />

School for Field Studies Center for Marine Resource Studies ~ Photos By Heidi Hertler<br />

Coral reefs are among <strong>the</strong> most biologically diverse and highly productive ecosystems on Earth. Their<br />

contribution to <strong>the</strong> global economy is estimated at close to $10 billion/year in tourism and recreation,<br />

$9 billion/year in coastal protection and $6 billion/year in both fisheries and biodiversity. Located at <strong>the</strong><br />

sou<strong>the</strong>rn tail <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahamian archipelago, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are indeed “Beautiful by Nature,”<br />

much <strong>of</strong> which is directly attributed to <strong>the</strong>ir near shore reefs.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 27


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

The extensive reef system surrounding <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos not only protects adjacent shorelines from wave<br />

action and prevents erosion and property damage, but<br />

supports <strong>the</strong> economy directly and indirectly through<br />

<strong>the</strong> local fishing industry (spiny lobster and <strong>the</strong> queen<br />

conch) and tourism. Recognizing <strong>the</strong> critical importance<br />

<strong>of</strong> coastal marine systems, <strong>the</strong> TCI has established an<br />

extensive network <strong>of</strong> 34 protected areas, incorporating<br />

critical marine habitats such as reefs, mangroves, seagrass<br />

beds and sand banks, and <strong>the</strong> faunal communities<br />

<strong>the</strong>y support.<br />

Despite <strong>the</strong> ecological complexity and high biodiversity<br />

<strong>of</strong> coral reefs, <strong>the</strong>y are particularly sensitive to<br />

impacts from a series <strong>of</strong> phenomena (climate change,<br />

storms, current pattern changes) and anthropogenic<br />

activities. In <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> Caribbean reefs, <strong>the</strong> most significant<br />

damage is attributed to coral diseases, hurricanes,<br />

mass mortality <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> herbivorous long-spine sea urchin<br />

(Diadema antillarum), localized human impacts, and<br />

climate change. These drivers <strong>of</strong> change have caused<br />

dramatic phase shifts to systems dominated by macroalgae<br />

and o<strong>the</strong>r nuisance species, fields <strong>of</strong> unstable coral<br />

rubble, loss <strong>of</strong> three-dimensional structure, and increases<br />

in abundance <strong>of</strong> shorter-lived brooding corals such as<br />

Agaricia and Porites.<br />

In addition, overfishing <strong>of</strong> exploitable reef species,<br />

sedimentation, water pollution from on-shore development<br />

and population growth, and global climate change<br />

combine with natural phenomena to create a situation<br />

where near shore marine systems are under increasing<br />

stress throughout <strong>the</strong> world. As a result, coral reefs are<br />

at risk and it is crucial to establish comprehensive coastal<br />

management plans to curtail and prevent <strong>the</strong> destruction<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se critical habitats, which are likely irreplaceable.<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> hold some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />

pristine coral reefs and enduring fisheries in all <strong>of</strong><br />

Caribbean. On South Caicos, a unique opportunity to<br />

study and monitor long-term environmental changes<br />

was seized upon by The School for Field Studies’ Center<br />

for Marine Resource Studies (SFS CMRS). The School for<br />

Field Studies (SFS) is a US-based academic institution that<br />

provides multidisciplinary, field-based environmental<br />

study abroad opportunities to undergraduate university<br />

students. Each SFS program highlights a different region<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world, with its own distinct cultural and ecological<br />

characteristics and unique environmental challenges.<br />

From top: School for Field Studies students regularly monitor <strong>the</strong><br />

reefs around South Caicos to study long-term environmental changes.<br />

Katie Rose Jacobus (University <strong>of</strong> San Diego) photographs <strong>the</strong> reef<br />

for CPCe analysis.<br />

28 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

Faculty and students at <strong>the</strong> SFS CMRS on South Caicos<br />

work in close cooperation with local partners including<br />

DEMA, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef Fund (www.tcreef.org),<br />

and local fishermen and processing plants to protect and<br />

enhance <strong>the</strong> management <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island’s coral reefs and<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r marine resources.<br />

SFS CMRS recognizes <strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> studying<br />

climate change impacts on local ecosystems. Already<br />

observed impacts <strong>of</strong> climate change to marine and coastal<br />

ecosystems include those linked to temperature change<br />

on organism metabolism, water chemistry including carbonate<br />

cycling, precipitation change on water balance,<br />

and wind and water circulation pattern changes. Long<br />

term data collection is a crucial element <strong>of</strong> observing and<br />

understanding such impacts, beneficial to stakeholders<br />

and essential to policy makers.<br />

As it is, <strong>the</strong> effects <strong>of</strong> climate change increase <strong>the</strong><br />

burden on already stressed ecosystems. Ocean acidification,<br />

a result <strong>of</strong> carbon dioxide (CO 2 ) being absorbed by<br />

<strong>the</strong> ocean and in turn altering <strong>the</strong> pH <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water, is slowing<br />

<strong>the</strong> ability <strong>of</strong> hard corals to grow and leaving <strong>the</strong>m<br />

more susceptible to diseases. Sea surface temperatures<br />

have been rising steadily over <strong>the</strong> past century, placing<br />

additional stress on many coral species. When corals<br />

become too stressed by <strong>the</strong> changes to <strong>the</strong>ir surrounding<br />

environment, <strong>the</strong>y expel an internal photosyn<strong>the</strong>tic<br />

alga called zooxan<strong>the</strong>llae, which deprives <strong>the</strong>m <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

normal colors, a phenomenon commonly referred to as<br />

coral bleaching. Coral bleaching itself is not fatal, as it<br />

is possible for <strong>the</strong> corals to recover and reabsorb <strong>the</strong><br />

expelled zooxan<strong>the</strong>llae, but such reabsorption does not<br />

always occur and bleaching leaves corals more vulnerable<br />

to contract fatal diseases.<br />

SFS CMRS faculty and staff lead teams <strong>of</strong> students to<br />

collect baseline data on <strong>the</strong> health <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local reef system.<br />

Sites were permanently marked at three depths in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Admiral Cockburn Land and Sea National Park so <strong>the</strong>y<br />

can be revisited. The research team uses several methods<br />

to assess <strong>the</strong> overall condition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> system. The methods<br />

include measuring species composition (number <strong>of</strong><br />

different organisms observed) using <strong>the</strong> Atlantic and<br />

Gulf Rapid Reef Assessment protocol, documenting and<br />

recording fish species abundance (including <strong>the</strong> invasive<br />

lionfish), and photographing and videoing <strong>the</strong> benthic<br />

community for composition analysis using specialized<br />

s<strong>of</strong>tware.<br />

Top: Niki Graziano (University <strong>of</strong> St. Thomas/Minnesota) measures<br />

conch with children from <strong>the</strong> South Caicos Marine Research Club.<br />

Below: Club members present data collected in <strong>the</strong> field.<br />

An increasingly important part <strong>of</strong> long term reef<br />

studies is <strong>the</strong> assessment <strong>of</strong> coral bleaching. SFS CMRS<br />

uses a method that is easily transferable to citizen scientists<br />

(non-specialists) and could be replicated on o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

islands. Coral bleaching is documented using <strong>the</strong> Coral<br />

Watch card system, which allows researchers to record<br />

coral bleaching data quantitatively for analysis and documentation.<br />

Building <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong>se surveys, SFS has created a youthdriven<br />

research program to assess shallower reefs around<br />

South Caicos. In collaboration with <strong>the</strong> TC Reef Fund, SFS<br />

recently launched <strong>the</strong> South Caicos Marine Research Club<br />

for children who have completed snorkeling lessons at<br />

<strong>the</strong> Center for Marine Resource Studies. The club will<br />

strive to foster local environmental awareness, leadership<br />

CHRIS CASACLANG<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 29


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & maritime affairs<br />

Healthy reefs are pillars <strong>of</strong> a healthy planet and a healthy economy.<br />

and scientific curiosity by empowering youth as junior<br />

researchers <strong>of</strong> local marine protected areas.<br />

To create simple marine research projects, fish survey<br />

and coral assessment diving methodologies were modified<br />

for children between <strong>the</strong> ages <strong>of</strong> 7–14 to complete on<br />

snorkel. This program also provides college students with<br />

<strong>the</strong> opportunity to serve as in-field and classroom mentors.<br />

SFS students provide one-on-one research guidance<br />

to participants as well as monitor <strong>the</strong>ir in-water safety.<br />

Research Club members also work with SFS students to<br />

practice species identification and develop hypo<strong>the</strong>ses.<br />

As part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Research Club, participants are taken<br />

by SFS boats and vehicles to <strong>the</strong> East Harbor Conch and<br />

Lobster Reserve as well as to <strong>the</strong> Admiral Cockburn Land<br />

and Sea National Park. For many, this is <strong>the</strong>ir first opportunity<br />

to experience <strong>the</strong>se natural ecosystems. At <strong>the</strong><br />

start <strong>of</strong> each week, Research Club members review <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

collective results from <strong>the</strong> week before as a team. This<br />

allows <strong>the</strong>m to witness <strong>the</strong> product <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir efforts and<br />

apply what <strong>the</strong>y learned to <strong>the</strong> current week’s endeavors.<br />

This semester, junior researchers have investigated<br />

questions on conch size and abundance, coral bleaching<br />

and fish biodiversity within <strong>the</strong> reserves. They have<br />

positioned transects, studied species identification, and<br />

learned Coral Watch protocol. In April, junior researchers<br />

presented <strong>the</strong>ir findings to <strong>the</strong> community in coordination<br />

with <strong>the</strong> bi-annual SFS Student Directed-Research presentations.<br />

To practice <strong>the</strong>ir presentation skills, Research<br />

Club members have presented recent news headlines in<br />

worldwide marine conservation and facts about keystone<br />

species to <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> club.<br />

The curiosity, perseverance and ability that Research<br />

Club members have shown is astonishing. We look forward<br />

to watching <strong>the</strong>m grow as marine scientists and<br />

hope that <strong>the</strong>ir efforts inspire growing participation in <strong>the</strong><br />

club. Whatever <strong>the</strong>y decide to do later on in life, we hope<br />

that <strong>the</strong>y carry a love for <strong>the</strong> ocean and an understanding<br />

<strong>of</strong> its complexity with <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

The Center for Marine Resource Studies on South<br />

Caicos is <strong>the</strong> only program currently carrying out research<br />

on <strong>the</strong> reefs in this area and <strong>the</strong>refore it is imperative<br />

to continue collecting data to create a complete picture<br />

<strong>of</strong> regional and global coral health. With such promising<br />

results, this research approach could continue beyond<br />

<strong>the</strong> five-year plan to create a long-term reef-monitoring<br />

program.<br />

Healthy reefs are crucial pillars <strong>of</strong> a healthy planet<br />

and a healthy economy. Without <strong>the</strong>m, fish stocks will<br />

continue to decline, tourism will be negatively impacted<br />

and o<strong>the</strong>r ecosystems will be irreparably altered. The<br />

incentives for a healthier ocean and a healthier earth are<br />

self-evident, and it behooves us to continue studying and<br />

protecting <strong>the</strong> species, such as coral reefs, that support<br />

our lives. a<br />

To learn more about <strong>the</strong> SFS program, visit www.fieldstudies.org/tci.<br />

For more information on <strong>the</strong> South<br />

Caicos Marine Research Club or to support this effort,<br />

please contact <strong>the</strong> SFS CMRS Center Director Heidi Hertler<br />

at hhertler@fieldstudies.org.<br />

30 www.timespub.tc


Visit<br />

THE CAICOS CONCH FARM<br />

WE GROW<br />

CONCH & FISH<br />

Monday - Friday: 9am - 4pm<br />

Saturday: 9am - 2.30pm<br />

Closed: Sundays<br />

Adults $12.00<br />

Children $10.00<br />

Leeward Highway, Leeward, Providenciales<br />

Phone: (649) 946-5330


32 www.timespub.tc


Shades <strong>of</strong> Gray<br />

A former resident views <strong>the</strong> Salt <strong>Islands</strong> through his camera lens.<br />

By Felix Thomson<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 33


34 www.timespub.tc


SALT CAY<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 35


I first came to Grand Turk 22 years ago to visit my<br />

mum, Sue, who had recently moved <strong>the</strong>re from <strong>the</strong> UK to<br />

be with her <strong>the</strong>n-boyfriend Xavier Tonneau, known locally<br />

as Mr. X. They ran <strong>the</strong> Turks Head Hotel and I stayed a<br />

few months to help out around <strong>the</strong> place. Grand Turk<br />

and Salt Cay struck me as fantastic places to take pictures,<br />

especially for my particular style <strong>of</strong> photography.<br />

Of course back <strong>the</strong>n, everything was on film(!) so I had<br />

to wait until I got home to process <strong>the</strong> film in a rented<br />

darkroom in Islington, London.<br />

Over <strong>the</strong> next ten years or so I would visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

<strong>of</strong>ten, sometimes for a few weeks, sometimes months,<br />

helping with various projects Mum and X were up to. X,<br />

an artist, musician, and chef, was something <strong>of</strong> a celebrity<br />

in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and people would turn up from all over<br />

<strong>the</strong> world to have a drink with him and buy one <strong>of</strong> his<br />

famous maps (which are still sold in TCI.)<br />

My last long stint on Grand Turk was immediately<br />

after Hurricane Ike hit in 2008. Sadly, Mum and X had<br />

both died years prior and I and my two bro<strong>the</strong>rs and<br />

sister had inherited <strong>the</strong> building on <strong>the</strong> corner <strong>of</strong> James<br />

Street and Pond Street. The hurricane totally flattened <strong>the</strong><br />

building along with many o<strong>the</strong>rs. We decided we would<br />

re-build, so <strong>the</strong> four <strong>of</strong> us spent a month putting <strong>the</strong> basic<br />

structure back toge<strong>the</strong>r. I stayed on with my sister Hazel<br />

(who is still <strong>the</strong>re) to finish and get <strong>the</strong> building up and<br />

running as shops and apartments.<br />

These photographs come from that period <strong>of</strong> about<br />

two years, early post-Hurricane Ike. I spent many happy<br />

hours wandering <strong>the</strong> back streets <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk and<br />

(occasionally) Salt Cay photographing people and things.<br />

When photographing people it’s best to become familiar<br />

and unobtrusive—to be seen with a camera all <strong>the</strong> time is<br />

<strong>the</strong> best way to achieve this.<br />

When I returned to <strong>the</strong> UK, I met Katie who is now my<br />

wife and we bought a house in Hay On Wye in <strong>the</strong> Black<br />

Mountains on <strong>the</strong> Welsh side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> border with England.<br />

We renovated <strong>the</strong> house and run a B&B; Katie teaches<br />

yoga and I work as a carpenter and still take pictures.<br />

Felix Thomson<br />

36 www.timespub.tc


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CLAIRE PARRISH


feature<br />

DAVID O’CONNELL<br />

Opposite page: The Science Lab at The International School at Leeward is a bright, well-equipped place to learn.<br />

Above: Students at Precious Treasures International School proudly display <strong>the</strong> TCI National Costume.<br />

The In-Between Years<br />

A look at middle schooling in Providenciales.<br />

By Kathy Borsuk<br />

I remember my pre-teen and early adolescent years with a cringe. I was chubby, socially awkward, and<br />

sported bangs (fringe) that were perpetually crooked, ugly tortoiseshell glasses, and clo<strong>the</strong>s that were<br />

always too small and out <strong>of</strong> style. In <strong>the</strong> public school system in my small town in <strong>the</strong> US, students<br />

attended “elementary school” from kindergarten to grade 6, <strong>the</strong>n automatically attended “junior high”<br />

(grade 7 and 8), followed by “high school” for freshman, sophomore, junior, and senior years (grades 9,<br />

10, 11, and 12). My transition to <strong>the</strong> large junior high where we were bussed did not go smoothly and<br />

were among <strong>the</strong> worse years <strong>of</strong> my life.<br />

So when our Advertising Manager Claire Parrish told me I should write a story about <strong>the</strong> middle school<br />

situation in Providenciales, I didn’t know where to begin. I have no children and was totally unfamiliar<br />

with <strong>the</strong> island’s school system. Claire’s son Will had just entered grade 7, so she was able to explain<br />

firsthand <strong>the</strong> dilemma that exists.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 39


In <strong>the</strong> TCI, students attend primary school—ei<strong>the</strong>r<br />

government or private—up to grade 6. At that time, most<br />

students sit for <strong>the</strong> Grade Six Achievement Test (GSAT), a<br />

3 1/2 hour ordeal that thoroughly tests <strong>the</strong>ir knowledge<br />

<strong>of</strong> math, English and science. The results determine a<br />

youngster’s placement into high school as well as <strong>the</strong><br />

granting <strong>of</strong> academic scholarships. Students also can sit<br />

for a separate entrance exam to determine <strong>the</strong>ir eligibility<br />

for very limited places at <strong>the</strong> country’s premier private<br />

secondary school, <strong>the</strong> British West Indies Collegiate, or<br />

<strong>the</strong> TCI Middle School.<br />

The majority <strong>of</strong> students in public schools go<br />

straight on to <strong>the</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> government high schools.<br />

In Providenciales, this is <strong>the</strong> large Clement Howell High<br />

School in Blue Hills or <strong>the</strong> newly opened Long Bay High<br />

School in Long Bay. Both encompass students from<br />

grades 7 to 11, although for 2017, <strong>the</strong> Long Bay school<br />

will open a separate building for middle school students.<br />

My first thought was, “Whew! That’s a lot <strong>of</strong> pressure<br />

to put on kids that are only 11 or 12 years old. The<br />

competition must be fierce among schools and students.<br />

What if a child had a bad day? And success-driven parents<br />

on top <strong>of</strong> that? Can kids get ulcers? What an unusual system!”<br />

As I visited a sample <strong>of</strong> private schools in<br />

Providenciales and talked to <strong>the</strong>ir principals, I was a bit<br />

relieved to see that <strong>the</strong>re are more options available than<br />

I thought. With <strong>the</strong> population <strong>of</strong> resident expatriates<br />

increasing again as <strong>the</strong> economy improves, <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong><br />

options available to middle schoolers has also expanded<br />

Precious Treasures International School was founded<br />

as a day care and preschool 28 years ago by Directors<br />

Allan and Yvonne Hutchinson, who initially served as<br />

founding principal. Centrally located on Cooper Jack Bay<br />

Road, Precious Treasures is today celebrated for consistently<br />

providing premium early childhood and primary<br />

level education to an international family <strong>of</strong> some 160<br />

children from ages 2 to 12 years. In <strong>the</strong> Fall <strong>2016</strong>, <strong>the</strong><br />

school will expand to <strong>of</strong>fer secondary level education<br />

starting with its inaugural Grade 7 class.<br />

With <strong>the</strong> mission to provide a world-class international<br />

education that prepares students to be global citizens and<br />

life-long learners in <strong>the</strong> 21st century, Precious Treasures<br />

uses <strong>the</strong> International Primary Curriculum (IPC) in foundation<br />

years and will extend this focus on internationalism<br />

and critical thinking with <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> International<br />

Middle Years Curriculum (IMYC) for <strong>the</strong> middle school<br />

department. The school is <strong>the</strong> only provider <strong>of</strong> this experience<br />

within TCI and continues to ensure that teaching<br />

Middle schoolers at Precious Treasures International School will enjoy<br />

a specialist science laboratory.<br />

practices focus on research, exploration, investigation,<br />

creativity, communication, and problem-solving. Learning<br />

at Precious Treasures is based on a student-centered<br />

and learning-focused educational philosophy that places<br />

students and <strong>the</strong>ir learning at <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> all school<br />

activities.<br />

I met recently with <strong>the</strong> Hutchinsons, new Administrator<br />

Anniona Jones and Special Projects Manager David<br />

O’Connell, who are clearly dedicated and enthusiastic<br />

about excellence and <strong>the</strong> holistic growth <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir students.<br />

In discussing <strong>the</strong>ir reasons for opening a middle<br />

school, Principal Jones explains, “At Precious Treasures,<br />

we see our student body as a home with strong Christian<br />

principles having a desire to multiply our God-given talents.<br />

Giving our students <strong>the</strong> new option <strong>of</strong> grades 7<br />

and 8 provides <strong>the</strong>m a chance to transition smoothly<br />

into secondary level education while being socially reinforced<br />

by <strong>the</strong> family-like environment that <strong>the</strong>y’re used<br />

to. We engineer a social environment and an academic<br />

program that builds students’ psychological confidence<br />

and academic competencies, guided by strong senses <strong>of</strong><br />

morality and social responsibility. We want our students<br />

to grow as global citizens, considering <strong>the</strong> impact <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

actions on o<strong>the</strong>r people, <strong>the</strong> environment, and <strong>the</strong> world<br />

as a whole.” She adds, “We encourage every child to take<br />

responsibility for <strong>the</strong>ir learning by monitoring <strong>the</strong>ir own<br />

progress. We also empower parents with <strong>the</strong> information<br />

DAVID O’CONNELL<br />

40 www.timespub.tc


equired to support <strong>the</strong>ir children effectively throughout<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir development.”<br />

Founder/director Alan Hutchinson fur<strong>the</strong>r explains<br />

what sets Precious Treasures International School apart,<br />

“We guarantee a system designed for specific outputs<br />

—progress for every child. We celebrate every child as<br />

an exceptional student. We want to find, facilitate, and<br />

celebrate <strong>the</strong> personal best <strong>of</strong> every child. We think very<br />

carefully about <strong>the</strong> kind <strong>of</strong> person we want to meet in<br />

20 years and work backwards from <strong>the</strong>re to create that<br />

person.”<br />

Parents who select Precious Treasures will be ensured<br />

highly qualified teachers with degrees in <strong>the</strong> subject areas<br />

<strong>the</strong>y teach, small classes capped at 15 students, dedicated<br />

homerooms equipped with multi-media projectors,<br />

e-book library access, and a newly opened specialized<br />

science laboratory. With a school-wide iPad 1:1 program,<br />

students and teachers are required to use <strong>the</strong> latest<br />

technology to enrich <strong>the</strong> learning experience. Finally,<br />

with plans to expand into Grade 8 in 2017, <strong>the</strong> goal is<br />

to relocate <strong>the</strong> Middle School into a new, state-<strong>of</strong>-<strong>the</strong>-art<br />

building. Through a developing “Partners in Education”<br />

program, <strong>the</strong> school is currently seeking corporate and<br />

personal sponsors to help fund this goal and accelerate<br />

<strong>the</strong> vision and achievement that has become its hallmark.<br />

One “school” <strong>of</strong> thought believes that grade 6 students<br />

do well as <strong>the</strong> “oldest kids on <strong>the</strong> block.” They have<br />

a year or two to savor being at <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> totem pole,<br />

so to speak, and can serve as mentors to <strong>the</strong> younger students.<br />

This is <strong>the</strong> philosophy that guides <strong>the</strong> International<br />

School at Leeward, according to Vice Principal Indrani<br />

Saunders. Celebrating <strong>the</strong>ir 30th anniversary this year,<br />

<strong>the</strong> International School <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos was <strong>the</strong><br />

original “international” primary school in Leeward, and<br />

today includes 20 nationalities among its student body.<br />

The International School is a bright, lively oasis at<br />

Providenciales’ nor<strong>the</strong>astern tip, with a current enrollment<br />

<strong>of</strong> 130 students including <strong>the</strong> newly built nursery<br />

which opened in September 2015. It follows <strong>the</strong> National<br />

Curriculum <strong>of</strong> England, adapted to meet <strong>the</strong> needs<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> school community and make full use <strong>of</strong> TCI’s<br />

wealth <strong>of</strong> natural resources, with class size from Senior<br />

Kindergarten to Grade 6 no larger than 18 students. Its<br />

mission is to combine traditional values with modern<br />

vision to enable students to become global citizens <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> future. It’s clear that teachers care deeply about <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

students and <strong>the</strong>ir adventures in learning.<br />

Besides <strong>the</strong> fully equipped science lab and ICT suite,<br />

music teacher, and French and Spanish language classes,<br />

Your Best Choice for Primary<br />

Education in <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />

We cater to your child’s needs, from<br />

Nursery School through <strong>the</strong> primary years.<br />

Let your child grow with us, academically,<br />

socially, & athletically. Our goal is to<br />

educate, challenge and stimulate within a<br />

happy, fun learning environment.<br />

internationalschooltci.com<br />

(649) 946-5523<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 41


CLAIRE PARRISH<br />

Grade 6 students at <strong>the</strong> International School at Leeward are being well-prepared for <strong>the</strong> upcoming GSAT.<br />

<strong>the</strong> school sports playgrounds, outdoor courts and a<br />

stage, along with a brand-new 25 meter training pool—<br />

<strong>the</strong> first <strong>of</strong> its kind on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Having such an array <strong>of</strong><br />

activities, Mrs. Saunders says, encourages students with<br />

a broad range <strong>of</strong> skills.<br />

Of <strong>the</strong> upcoming GSATs, Mrs. Saunders says,<br />

“Children are both anxious and excited about <strong>the</strong> test.<br />

Our Grade 6 students are being prepared with sample<br />

tests and daily essays.” The students we questioned<br />

agreed with her assessment, and said while <strong>the</strong>y would<br />

be glad when <strong>the</strong> exam was over, <strong>the</strong>y did feel ready.<br />

For <strong>the</strong> <strong>2016</strong> Fall semester, <strong>the</strong> school plans to add<br />

a grade 7 to accommodate <strong>the</strong>ir students’ needs. Vice<br />

Principal Saunders explains, “These are still children who<br />

like to play on <strong>the</strong> playground and interact with <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

friends. We want to <strong>of</strong>fer <strong>the</strong>m a comfortable setting<br />

where <strong>the</strong>y can grow and mature into <strong>the</strong> more challenging<br />

high school level.”<br />

Alison Williams is director and founder <strong>of</strong> Provo<br />

Primary School, a colorful, art-filled collection <strong>of</strong> buildings<br />

tucked next to <strong>the</strong> Graceway Sports Centre in <strong>the</strong><br />

island’s mid-section. Alison opened <strong>the</strong> school in 1991<br />

as a pre-school—Headstart Learning Centre—which soon<br />

become a primary school, moving to its current location<br />

in 2003, with enrollment growing over <strong>the</strong> years from 2<br />

students to 165 today! Principal Sian Jones took over <strong>the</strong><br />

daily operation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> school in 2009.<br />

The much-beloved school <strong>of</strong>fers a UK-based,<br />

child-centered curriculum in a nurturing, caring environment.<br />

Ms. Williams explains, “We encourage our<br />

children to be problem-solvers and creative thinkers and<br />

our hands-on, investigative approach to learning has led<br />

to extremely high levels <strong>of</strong> achievement. Over <strong>the</strong> past<br />

five years, we have consistently seen top places awarded<br />

to our children in <strong>the</strong>ir post-primary school placement<br />

test. This is a direct result <strong>of</strong> our teaching methods<br />

and excellent staff.” The topic-based, creative curriculum<br />

links subjects through central <strong>the</strong>mes that classes<br />

explore toge<strong>the</strong>r, thus applying skills through meaningful<br />

research, investigation, reasoning, and inquiry.<br />

Provo Primary has always been well known for its Arts<br />

Program and <strong>the</strong> children put on outstanding Christmas<br />

shows each year. Having studied music to degree level,<br />

Alison understands <strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> teaching Music<br />

in primary school. She introduced steel drums to Turks<br />

& Caicos in 1989 and <strong>the</strong> children enjoy playing in <strong>the</strong><br />

Provo Primary Steel Drum Band. The school has two qualified<br />

Dance and Theater Arts teachers and sports also<br />

plays a huge part in <strong>the</strong> school. Alison explains, “We are<br />

extremely lucky to have all <strong>the</strong> sports facilities right at<br />

our doorstep. We use Graceway Sports Centre once a<br />

week and also access <strong>the</strong> FIFA soccer pitch, <strong>the</strong> tennis<br />

42 www.timespub.tc


COURTESY PROVO PRIMARY SCHOOL<br />

Year 6 students at Provo Primary School will now have <strong>the</strong> option <strong>of</strong> continuing at <strong>the</strong> school for ano<strong>the</strong>r year.<br />

courts, <strong>the</strong> swimming pool at Flamingo Park, and <strong>the</strong> running<br />

track.”<br />

Field trips are an important part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> curriculum<br />

and children go on day trips beginning in pre-school.<br />

Provo Primary Year 5 children go to North and Middle<br />

Caicos for two days, while Year 6 students enjoy an international<br />

trip for five days.<br />

When asked, Ms. Williams said that she believes it<br />

is probably better for middle-school age children to be<br />

separated from <strong>the</strong> influences <strong>of</strong> older children, but also<br />

recognizes <strong>the</strong>ir need to feel like <strong>the</strong>y have “moved on”<br />

from primary school. With this in mind, she says she<br />

plans to build a middle school adjacent to Provo Primary<br />

School, starting with Year 7 in 2017, and adding Years 8<br />

and 9 in subsequent years.<br />

The enthusiastic director is excited to extend <strong>the</strong><br />

ethos <strong>of</strong> Provo Primary and its methods <strong>of</strong> delivering <strong>the</strong><br />

curriculum. She hopes <strong>the</strong> older children will be inspired<br />

to learn through interesting and relevant topic areas such<br />

as marine biology, conservation and renewable energy.<br />

While still following a UK-based curriculum, <strong>the</strong> new middle<br />

school will ensure that children are also equipped to<br />

enter into <strong>the</strong> US and Canadian school systems.<br />

Year 7 will have a science lab-style classroom, and<br />

alongside a traditional classroom seating area <strong>the</strong>re<br />

will be space for Design Technology and Art. The music<br />

Join us in celebrating our 25th Anniversary<br />

this upcoming year!<br />

Referred to by <strong>the</strong> Ministry <strong>of</strong> Education as<br />

“a model school displaying outstanding practices”.<br />

Highly qualified, experienced and caring teaching staff.<br />

School campus that backs on to Graceway Sports Centre<br />

with access to, and within short walking distance <strong>of</strong>, soccer fields,<br />

tennis courts, swimming pool, running track, and Flamingo Lake.<br />

Renowned examination preparation and academic success.<br />

Outstanding music & <strong>the</strong>atre arts programme and steel drum band.<br />

Your child’s journey to a great future begins with us.<br />

Provo Primary School recognizes <strong>the</strong> important role it plays in<br />

building pathways in a child’s brain for all future learning. We<br />

believe that developing children’s confidence, unique strengths<br />

and social skills, natural curiosity, enthusiasm for learning, creative<br />

thinking and problem solving skills, are <strong>the</strong> key to our renowned<br />

success.<br />

Email principal@provoprimary.com<br />

Tel 441-5638 or 431-6327<br />

Website and blog at www.provoprimary.com<br />

E<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 43


KRYS & GRACE MANN<br />

From top: Each student at <strong>the</strong> TCI Middle School is assigned a personal<br />

netbook/laptop which can be used in all lessons.<br />

TCI Middle School facilities include a well-equipped Science lab. The<br />

periodical table at back was painted by students.<br />

With small class sizes (a maximum <strong>of</strong> 12 students per year group),<br />

TCI Middle School students get individual attention from teachers<br />

and find it easy to interact with each o<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

room and stage area at Provo Primary will continue to be<br />

accessed. Outdoor learning will include an aquaponics<br />

area for gardening, with <strong>the</strong> added benefit <strong>of</strong> being right<br />

on Flamingo Lake for extracurricular and Environmental<br />

Science activities.<br />

TCI Middle School was opened in 2010 as <strong>the</strong> first<br />

true “Middle School” in Providenciales, encompassing<br />

Years (grades) 7 to 9. It has since grown to now <strong>of</strong>fer<br />

<strong>the</strong> full “High School” age range (Years 7 to 11), <strong>of</strong>fering<br />

an International curriculum based on an adapted British<br />

National Curriculum in Years 7 to 9, <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> International<br />

General Certificate <strong>of</strong> Secondary Education (IGCSE) course<br />

<strong>of</strong> study in Years 9 to 11. Like <strong>the</strong> British West Indies<br />

Collegiate, it is a fully accredited exam centre for IGCSE<br />

awards, enabling students to leave in Year 11 with an<br />

internationally recognized qualification.<br />

TCI Middle School’s central location on Leeward<br />

Highway below Richmond Hills <strong>of</strong>fers easy access to<br />

<strong>the</strong> small, comfortable campus. Mark Dunbavand is its<br />

founder, principal, and a teacher—a pr<strong>of</strong>essional who is<br />

clearly passionate about education. He says, “The school<br />

began as a response to <strong>the</strong> need for more options for an<br />

international education after Primary School. We started<br />

with only eight students, three in Year 7 and five in Year<br />

8. We have grown steadily— we currently have 41 students<br />

on roll, rising to more than 50 next year. However,<br />

we are small by design; <strong>the</strong>re is a maximum <strong>of</strong> 12 students<br />

per year group in order to facilitate individualized<br />

learning. With this number, we can give each student<br />

individual attention; challenging and stretching <strong>the</strong> more<br />

able as well as supporting those who need it.”<br />

Principal Dunbavand believes that students need to<br />

be challenged academically and <strong>the</strong>y should thrive in <strong>the</strong><br />

right environment. His school clearly <strong>of</strong>fers a calm, familial<br />

atmosphere, with highly qualified teachers, all with<br />

international experience, teaching <strong>the</strong>ir specialist subjects<br />

with all <strong>the</strong> equipment required to “get kids excited”<br />

about learning.<br />

Facilities include a well-equipped Science lab for<br />

courses in Chemistry, Physics, and Biology. Multimedia<br />

presenters are standard in every room and half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

classrooms have interactive whiteboards. All students are<br />

also assigned a personal netbook/laptop which can be<br />

used in all lessons. As <strong>the</strong> whole school is has Wi-Fi coverage,<br />

any room can be turned into an ICT lab at any time.<br />

At TCI Middle School, students are very involved in<br />

community activities, including projects through links<br />

with <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Environment and Maritime Affairs<br />

and <strong>the</strong> recent “TCI Shines” road clean-up campaign.<br />

44 www.timespub.tc


Students are taught responsibility and through <strong>the</strong> School<br />

Council have a say in <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> school—<br />

including areas to be expanded, resources to be bought,<br />

and even, initially, in choosing <strong>the</strong>ir school uniform!<br />

Mr. Dunbavand notes that as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> school’s<br />

ongoing development <strong>the</strong>y are opening a Year 6 for<br />

September <strong>2016</strong>. “Our students come to us from many<br />

different primary schools and <strong>the</strong>refore, have very different<br />

prior learning experiences. Our Year 6 would enable<br />

us to help <strong>the</strong>m all become more independent learners so<br />

<strong>the</strong>y are more fully prepared for <strong>the</strong> academic challenges<br />

ahead and provide a smooth transition into Year 7.”<br />

My visit to <strong>the</strong> British West Indies Collegiate on<br />

Venetian Road made it clear why parents and students<br />

strive to attend. It is <strong>the</strong> only school <strong>of</strong> its kind in Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>of</strong>fering an International Advanced (A) Level program<br />

that provides <strong>the</strong> necessary qualifications for access<br />

to university. This allows Belongers and o<strong>the</strong>r residents to<br />

complete <strong>the</strong>ir secondary education will remaining in <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong>. It encourages young people to return to TCI after<br />

completing university, able and willing to contribute to<br />

<strong>the</strong> country’s future development. The school also plays<br />

a vital role in attracting key workers from abroad.<br />

BWIC’s stated goal is to “provide our students with a<br />

progressive academic education in a safe and stimulating<br />

environment, place <strong>the</strong>m in <strong>the</strong> best possible universities<br />

worldwide, and will <strong>the</strong>m to become young citizens with a<br />

responsible, honest, and altruistic character and respect<br />

for <strong>the</strong> world in which we live.” The 12 acre campus contains<br />

well equipped classrooms, a science block with<br />

separate laboratories for Biology, Chemistry and Physics,<br />

a large IT lab, a huge library, an art room, a dedicated<br />

music room, and Brayton Hall, a state-<strong>of</strong>-<strong>the</strong>-art auditorium.<br />

The school also makes use <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> National Stadium<br />

at its flank for track and field and o<strong>the</strong>r sporting events.<br />

The not-for-pr<strong>of</strong>it BWIC, which opened its doors in<br />

1993, has been run by <strong>the</strong> formidable Principal Sylvie<br />

Wigglesworth since 1995 (she now attends to <strong>the</strong> education<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> children <strong>of</strong> former students!) A no-nonsense<br />

administrator, Principal Wigglesworth is obviously<br />

respected (with a touch <strong>of</strong> fear) by students and teachers,<br />

but I sense a kind, caring soul who only wants <strong>the</strong> best<br />

for all. In fact, to date <strong>the</strong> BWIC has a 100% success rate<br />

for securing university places for students completing <strong>the</strong><br />

Advanced Level program, with no dropouts from university<br />

programs in its history.<br />

Admission to BWIC in Years 6 or 7 requires that<br />

students take <strong>the</strong> collegiate’s entrance exam, with top<br />

performers following up with an interview. Successful<br />

From top: Part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mission <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> British West Indies Collegiate<br />

(BWIC) is promoting fellowship, co-operation, and a sense <strong>of</strong> loyalty.<br />

BWIC student Achsah Wildish (far right) is recognized with an<br />

Outstanding Cambridge Learner Award – Top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> World AS-Level<br />

Ma<strong>the</strong>matics.<br />

The BWIC’s new music room, adjacent to <strong>the</strong> auditorium, is fitted with<br />

acoustic tiles and storage space for instruments. Here, a music class<br />

is enthusiastically led by Branford Handfield.<br />

DAPHNE ROOTS<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 45


The longest established legal practice<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Real Estate Investments<br />

& Property Development<br />

Immigration, Residency<br />

& Business Licensing<br />

Company & Commercial Law<br />

Trusts & Estate Planning<br />

Banking & Insurance<br />

1 Caribbean Place, P.O. Box 97<br />

Leeward Highway, Providenciales<br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />

Ph: 649 946 4344 • Fax: 649 946 4564<br />

E-Mail: dempsey@tciway.tc<br />

Cockburn House, P.O. Box 70<br />

Market Street, Grand Turk<br />

Juan Martinez Fall 15 Turks sixth_Layout & Caicos 1 5/27/16 <strong>Islands</strong>, 11:58 BWIAM Page 1<br />

Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758<br />

E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc<br />

PHONE:<br />

2 4 1 . 3 2 9 7<br />

2 4 4 . 9 0 9 0<br />

3 4 4 . 9 4 0 3<br />

2 4 4 . 6 1 9 1<br />

SOUTH DOCK<br />

ROAD, PROVO<br />

applicants typically stay at <strong>the</strong> school until Year 13. Of<br />

<strong>the</strong> student body, approximately 65% are TCI nationals,<br />

with <strong>the</strong> rest from a variety <strong>of</strong> nationalities.<br />

Madame Wigglesworth carefully schooled me on <strong>the</strong><br />

particularities <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> British education system, explaining<br />

that Years 7, 8, 9, also known as Key Stage 3, are considered<br />

foundation years. The school follows <strong>the</strong> British<br />

National Curriculum from Year 6 to Year 9. During <strong>the</strong>se<br />

Years, every subject on <strong>of</strong>fer is compulsory; students<br />

choose subjects in which to specialize over <strong>the</strong> next<br />

two years. As an accredited independent center with <strong>the</strong><br />

University <strong>of</strong> Cambridge International Examinations (CIE)<br />

students sit on average nine IGCSE subjects in Year 11. If<br />

successful in a minimum <strong>of</strong> five, including Ma<strong>the</strong>matics<br />

and English Language, <strong>the</strong>y are eligible to pursue <strong>the</strong> CIE<br />

Advanced Level course <strong>of</strong> study, leading to globally recognized<br />

qualifications and entry to university.<br />

Principal Wigglesworth is a strong believer in <strong>the</strong><br />

need to challenge students to do <strong>the</strong>ir best. She believes<br />

that high-achieving grade 6 students will be bored in<br />

a primary school environment and enjoy <strong>the</strong> step up<br />

into <strong>the</strong> Collegiate atmosphere. That is one reason she<br />

encourages potential students to enter at grade 6, giving<br />

her and her large cadre <strong>of</strong> teachers (all with university<br />

degrees and postgraduate teaching qualifications) <strong>the</strong><br />

chance to “get to know what <strong>the</strong>y don’t know” before <strong>the</strong><br />

rigors <strong>of</strong> Year 7. Indeed, as we toured <strong>the</strong> campus and<br />

questioned students in Years 6, 7, and 8, all said <strong>the</strong>y<br />

were happy to have left primary school and started at <strong>the</strong><br />

Collegiate when <strong>the</strong>y did.<br />

After my interviews for this article, it was clear that<br />

across <strong>the</strong> board, <strong>the</strong> educators are competent, dedicated,<br />

and caring, with a different focus than <strong>the</strong> business-oriented<br />

people with whom I typically interact. Principals<br />

and teachers are concerned with growing up children, not<br />

pr<strong>of</strong>it; influencing our future generation, not <strong>the</strong> bottom<br />

line. If I were a parent, I would rest assured that my children<br />

would be in good hands no matter what choice we<br />

made. The challenge would be to select an environment<br />

that would best suite a child’s particular needs, temperament,<br />

and skills.<br />

Of note is that scholarships, both academic and needbased,<br />

are typically available for each school mentioned<br />

here. And it goes without saying that PTA involvement is<br />

rich in every school, as well. a<br />

46 www.timespub.tc


THE GOLD STANDARD OF<br />

PRIVATE SECONDARY EDUCATION IN TCI<br />

Established in 1993 in <strong>the</strong> heart <strong>of</strong> Providenciales, <strong>the</strong> British West Indies Collegiate provides high quality education from age 10 through<br />

to 18 (Years 6 to 13), based on <strong>the</strong> British National Curriculum. The school is an accredited Cambridge International Examination Centre<br />

for IGCSE and GCE Advanced Level qualifications. The student population comprises approximately 160 students, typically made up<br />

<strong>of</strong> 60% Turks & Caicos Islanders and 40% from various o<strong>the</strong>r countries. A high proportion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Collegiate's IGCSE and A-Level<br />

graduates consistently achieve distinction with <strong>the</strong> highest grades in a range <strong>of</strong> academic subjects. History has repeatedly shown that our<br />

A-Level graduates prove not only to be suitably equipped to compete for places in <strong>the</strong> world's top universities, but also thrive once <strong>the</strong>y<br />

reach <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

Please visit our website www.bwic.tc or telephone <strong>the</strong> Principal Mrs Wigglesworth at 941 3333. We will be happy to give you a private<br />

tour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> school – please call to make an appointment or email: principal@bwic.tc<br />

SUPPORT EDUCATION IN TCI<br />

BWIC is a non-pr<strong>of</strong>it institution and is always in need <strong>of</strong> funds to expand for <strong>the</strong> admission <strong>of</strong> more students and for augmenting and<br />

maintaining <strong>the</strong> resources and facilities available to students. We have a small number <strong>of</strong> sponsors and donors but would greatly welcome<br />

additional support. If you are thinking <strong>of</strong> contributing to <strong>the</strong> growth and development <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> and its population,<br />

a donation to BWIC is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best ways you can help.<br />

British national curriculum Years 6 to 13.<br />

Wide range <strong>of</strong> subjects taught to IGCSE and GCE Advanced Level.<br />

SAT Centre. 1/6 teacher/student ratio. International Centre for Cambridge Examinations.<br />

Fully resourced with <strong>the</strong> most up-to-date equipment. Highly qualified and experienced<br />

staff. Extensive reference and lending library. Performing Arts Centre.<br />

PRINCIPAL, MRS SYLVIE WIGGLESWORTH<br />

PO Box 338, 51 Venetian Road, Providenciales<br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />

Tel: (649) 941 3333<br />

Email: principal@bwic.tc<br />

Food for Thought is a new charity set up to provide<br />

daily breakfast to government school students –<br />

starting with <strong>the</strong> primary schools in North Caicos, Middle Caicos,<br />

South Caicos and Salt Cay in September <strong>2016</strong>.<br />

We estimate that just $200 will allow us to provide breakfast to one child<br />

for a whole school year.<br />

If you would like to donate or learn more please<br />

email foodforthoughttci@gmail.com<br />

or visit our website foodforthoughttci.com<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 47


usiness<br />

Opposite page and above: There is a 35.35 kW solar photovoltaic system at <strong>the</strong> FortisTCI Ltd. headquarters in Providenciales. It is currently<br />

<strong>the</strong> largest commercial solar installation in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos.<br />

Let <strong>the</strong> Sun Shine . . .<br />

FortisTCI Limited <strong>of</strong>fers innovative solar energy program to customers.<br />

By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos Courtesy FortisTCI Ltd.<br />

I have heard <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos called <strong>the</strong> “Isles <strong>of</strong> Perpetual June,” referring to <strong>the</strong> consistently sunny<br />

days, kept comfortable by steady tradewinds. The bright tropical sun is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s many attractions<br />

to visitors, especially <strong>the</strong> large numbers arriving during <strong>the</strong> blustery winter/spring months <strong>of</strong> North<br />

America and Europe.<br />

Now, <strong>the</strong> sun’s rays have a purpose beyond tanning pale bodies. The country’s electricity providers,<br />

FortisTCI Ltd., recently introduced two new programs that will fan <strong>the</strong> flames <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s smoldering<br />

“green energy” movement.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 49


Located 22º north <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> equator, <strong>the</strong> length <strong>of</strong> day<br />

in Turks & Caicos varies from 10 hours and 49 minutes<br />

(December 21) to 13 hours and 27 minutes (June<br />

21). The median cloud cover is 54% (partly cloudy)<br />

and does not vary substantially over <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

year. (Source: wea<strong>the</strong>rspark.com). According to <strong>the</strong><br />

Energy Transition Initiative*, TCI has substantial solar<br />

resources (5.7 kilowatt-hours/square meter) each<br />

day with more than 350 days <strong>of</strong> strong sunshine and<br />

strong average winds.<br />

With this in mind, many wondered when FortisTCI<br />

Ltd., <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’ sole electricity provider, would begin<br />

“harvesting” <strong>the</strong> sunshine to lower <strong>the</strong> high cost <strong>of</strong><br />

energy and reliance on imported fossil fuel. Imported<br />

diesel fuel supplies <strong>the</strong> grid electricity for TCI, with<br />

an aggregate generating capacity <strong>of</strong> approximately 82<br />

megawatts to meet a combined peak demand <strong>of</strong> 37.6<br />

MW in 2015. The TCI has a multi-layered electricity<br />

rate design. Residential customers pay 26 cents per<br />

kilowatt-hour, below <strong>the</strong> Caribbean regional average<br />

<strong>of</strong> 33 cents per kWh.<br />

Unfortunately, it’s not just a matter <strong>of</strong> putting up<br />

acres <strong>of</strong> solar panels or allowing outfitted homes and<br />

businesses to connect into <strong>the</strong> system. According to<br />

<strong>the</strong> Energy Transition Initiative, <strong>the</strong> TCI Government<br />

has few policies related to energy efficiency and<br />

renewable energy. “Historically <strong>the</strong> territory has not<br />

implemented policy mechanisms to aid in <strong>the</strong> development<br />

<strong>of</strong> clean and energy-efficient technologies.<br />

In fact, some policies inhibit <strong>the</strong>ir implementation:<br />

a ban on new electricity generators, self-generation,<br />

and feed-in tariffs is currently in place, minimizing <strong>the</strong><br />

opportunities for clean energy development regardless<br />

<strong>of</strong> technical and economic potential. Current<br />

regulations and legislation do not require utilities to<br />

implement energy efficiency measures.” They add,<br />

“Even partial development <strong>of</strong> (TCI’s renewable energy)<br />

resources—where economically viable and technically<br />

feasible from a grid integration standpoint—could<br />

result in high-penetration <strong>of</strong> renewables onto <strong>the</strong> electrical<br />

grid.”<br />

Fortunately, FortisTCI is a forward-thinking organization<br />

and was long aware <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> potential for<br />

renewable energy in helping to lower electricity costs.<br />

According to Don Forsyth, director <strong>of</strong> Engineering<br />

and Planning, “We had to take slow, cautious steps to<br />

begin introducing renewable energy. We have worked<br />

long and hard to achieve our current ASAI (Average<br />

System Availability Index) <strong>of</strong> 99.96%, making us one<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most reliable utilities in <strong>the</strong> region. We did not<br />

want to do anything to jeopardize <strong>the</strong> excellent service<br />

our 14,000 customers have come to depend on.<br />

Everyone knows that power outages are frustrating<br />

and potentially life-threatening. We had to do a lot <strong>of</strong><br />

preliminary work.”<br />

The first step was to contract developer Urban<br />

FortisTCI Ltd. has assembled a dedicated Renewable Energy Core Team, including (from left): Talisha Simons, Corporate Communications<br />

Manager; Aisha Laporte, Director <strong>of</strong> Customer Service and Materials Management; Archie Gaviola, Director <strong>of</strong> Financial Services; Don Forsyth,<br />

Director <strong>of</strong> Engineering and Planning and Rachell Roullet, Director <strong>of</strong> Innovation Resource Planning.<br />

50 www.timespub.tc


Green Energy (UGE) and local partner Urban Green<br />

Environmental (UGE) in 2014 to design and build a<br />

35.25 kW solar photovoltaic system on <strong>the</strong> FortisTCI<br />

headquarters in Providenciales. The installation<br />

consists <strong>of</strong> 141 Hyundai mono crystalline PV modules<br />

on a Schlepper ro<strong>of</strong>-mount system. According<br />

to Jay Bennett, UGE president and project manager,<br />

<strong>the</strong> system is currently <strong>the</strong> largest commercial solar<br />

installation in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos. The pilot project<br />

could serve as a model for solar development in <strong>the</strong><br />

Caribbean.<br />

When properly installed, solar panels directly convert<br />

<strong>the</strong> sun’s rays into direct current (DC) electricity.<br />

These panels are made up <strong>of</strong> photovoltaic (PV) cells<br />

and are placed on a ro<strong>of</strong> in direct sunlight for optimal<br />

use. When <strong>the</strong> sunlight hits a solar cell, its photons<br />

are converted into electrons <strong>of</strong> DC electricity that flow<br />

through an inverter where <strong>the</strong>y are converted into<br />

alternating current (AC) power. This is <strong>the</strong> electricity<br />

which can <strong>the</strong>n be synchronized into <strong>the</strong> electric grid.<br />

As <strong>the</strong> FortisTCI project was being developed, <strong>the</strong> primary<br />

principles were safety, service quality/reliability,<br />

no cost subsidies, and no increased rates resulting<br />

from introducing renewable energy.<br />

In addition to working out tax policies and grid<br />

connection issues, Jay Bennett says one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> key<br />

requirements for renewable energy installations is that<br />

<strong>the</strong>y survive exposure to hurricane conditions. The<br />

FortisTCI project was designed to survive sustained<br />

winds <strong>of</strong> 150 mph with gusts up to 200 mph. “Because<br />

it is such a new area for <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, we spent<br />

a lot <strong>of</strong> time working with <strong>the</strong> planning department to<br />

establish appropriate guidelines,” Bennett adds.<br />

With <strong>the</strong> unqualified success <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pilot program,<br />

FortisTCI was ready to expand <strong>the</strong> options to <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

customer base. In November 2015, <strong>the</strong>y launched two<br />

exciting new solar energy programs.<br />

C.O.R.E.: Customer Owned Renewable Energy<br />

This option allows customers who own or will purchase<br />

solar photovoltaic systems up to 10 kW (residential) or<br />

60kW (commercial) to interconnect with <strong>the</strong> FortisTCI<br />

grid. (Note: This is <strong>the</strong> only way for owners <strong>of</strong> solar<br />

systems to interconnect to <strong>the</strong> grid. Non-participating<br />

systems must be stand-alone or completely isolated<br />

from <strong>the</strong> FortisTCI electricity grid.) The billing arrangement<br />

is termed “buy-all, sell-all” which gives customers<br />

a credit on <strong>the</strong>ir monthly electricity bill equivalent to<br />

<strong>the</strong> avoided cost <strong>of</strong> generation.<br />

renewable energy solutions<br />

energy efficiency solutions<br />

www.greenrevolutionltd.com<br />

moreinfo@greenrevolutionltd.com<br />

tel. 649-232-1393<br />

Blue Loos_Layout 1 2/9/16 2:47 PM Page 1<br />

All your septic tank solutions<br />

in one place provided by a<br />

family-owned business that<br />

cares about <strong>the</strong> environment<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

Call Blue Loos 231 7448 to<br />

have your tank emptied,<br />

cleaned or fixed. All waste<br />

disposed <strong>of</strong> in a licensed facility.<br />

Call IWWTT on 231 2366 for information<br />

about Bionest - <strong>the</strong> most efficient and<br />

environmentally friendly septic tank system<br />

available in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

The only way to achieve totally clear and<br />

odorless effluent.<br />

Eco Friendly<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 51


Kathryn is a founding member <strong>of</strong><br />

Turks and Caicos Real Estate<br />

Association formed in 2000. She<br />

was instrumental in writing and<br />

implementing <strong>the</strong> manual for <strong>the</strong><br />

Association as well as Rules and<br />

Regulations for <strong>the</strong> membership.<br />

In 2007 she was voted <strong>the</strong> first<br />

TCREA Ambassador by her peers. In 2009/10 she was part <strong>of</strong> a<br />

Team that wrote <strong>the</strong> first Training Manual for TCREA; all new<br />

members are required to complete <strong>the</strong> course and final exam<br />

before being accepted as full members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Association. She<br />

served as President <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Association for five years (2008-<br />

2013), as well as serving on many TCREA committees, some <strong>of</strong><br />

which she still serves.<br />

Kathryn started her real estate career in Cayman <strong>Islands</strong> where<br />

she worked for ERA for a number <strong>of</strong> years until her move to<br />

TCI ERA Coralie Properties Ltd in 2000; she was brought to<br />

implement <strong>the</strong> ERA system and manage <strong>the</strong> operation for <strong>the</strong><br />

newly franchised Coralie Properties. Over <strong>the</strong> years Kathryn<br />

has become an active partner shareholder and Director <strong>of</strong> ERA<br />

Coralie Properties Ltd., as well as being a successful sales<br />

associate, consistently being in <strong>the</strong> top ten.<br />

A background in interior design and retail fit well with a real<br />

estate career; working well with people, high standard <strong>of</strong><br />

pr<strong>of</strong>essionalism, integrity and quality service. Kathryn has<br />

many repeat customers as well as a strong referral network.<br />

If you want to learn about real estate in Turks & Caicos give<br />

Kathryn a call, she will be pleased to meet you and help with<br />

your real estate needs, wants, dreams...<br />

Tel: 649 231 2329<br />

Email: krbrown@era.tc<br />

Web: www.eraturksandcaicos.com<br />

Kathryn<br />

Brown<br />

ERA Coralie Properties Ltd.<br />

U.O.R.E.: Utility Owned Renewable Energy<br />

This option seems like <strong>the</strong> win-win, “no brainer” to<br />

me. FortisTCI covers <strong>the</strong> installation, maintenance,<br />

and ownership <strong>of</strong> a ro<strong>of</strong>top solar photovoltaic system<br />

that is interconnected with <strong>the</strong> grid. So in essence,<br />

customers are “renting” <strong>the</strong>ir ro<strong>of</strong>top space to <strong>the</strong> utility,<br />

receiving a monthly credit based on <strong>the</strong> size <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>ir ro<strong>of</strong>. According to FortisTCI Director <strong>of</strong> Customer<br />

Service Aisha LaPorte, a typical 1,000 sq. ft. ro<strong>of</strong> space<br />

with a 10 kW system could lower your bill by as much<br />

as $100 per month!<br />

It almost sounds too good to be true. There are<br />

stipulations, however. The customer must have title<br />

to <strong>the</strong> property on which <strong>the</strong> system is to be installed.<br />

FortisTCI engineers will assess <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> to ensure it<br />

is strong and stable enough to hold <strong>the</strong> solar PV system.<br />

They will also inspect any existing system for <strong>the</strong><br />

C.O.R.E. program to make sure it is up to code. Fortis<br />

is currently taking applications for both programs and<br />

starting <strong>the</strong> initial installations, anticipating an 8 to<br />

12 week time frame before your new system is up and<br />

running.<br />

The goal? FortisTCI plans to invest $10 million in<br />

this project over <strong>the</strong> next five years, with a “moving<br />

target” <strong>of</strong> 600 to 1,000 kW <strong>of</strong> installed capacity by <strong>the</strong><br />

end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year, rising to 5% <strong>of</strong> retail power sales by<br />

2020.<br />

Meanwhile, FortisTCI also <strong>of</strong>fers <strong>the</strong> SmartConnect<br />

program, which includes In-Home Energy Audits to<br />

help residents become more energy efficient at home.<br />

Trained technicians will evaluate your dwelling and<br />

send you recommendations for change, with follow-up<br />

power monitoring over <strong>the</strong> next six months. This service<br />

is free until August 31, <strong>2016</strong>. An extensive list <strong>of</strong><br />

energy conservation tips is also available.<br />

What else does <strong>the</strong> future hold? Most agree that<br />

wind and solar both will feature strongly in <strong>the</strong> renewable<br />

energy strategy <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos. Don<br />

Forsyth says FortisTCI is starting a two-year data capture<br />

study on wind power generation and is seeking<br />

government approval to move forward. With TCI said<br />

to have <strong>the</strong> highest reported greenhouse gas emissions<br />

in <strong>the</strong> region, <strong>the</strong> reduction in fuel imports seen<br />

from energy efficiency and renewable energy implementation<br />

can do nothing but good for <strong>the</strong> country<br />

and our precious planet. a<br />

For more information, visit www.fortistci.com.<br />

52 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe<br />

newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi<br />

tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org<br />

This “real photo postcard” is among <strong>the</strong> oldest<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos. Its sender, Alice<br />

Harriott, titled it “Cocoa-nut & Date Palms.”<br />

I Thought <strong>of</strong> You on <strong>the</strong><br />

Way to <strong>the</strong> Dump!<br />

By Dr. Donald H. Keith, President, Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation<br />

One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> biggest problems museums have is deciding what to keep. The Turks & Caicos National Museum is<br />

<strong>of</strong>fered objects almost every day. Sometimes would-be donors say, “I thought <strong>of</strong> you on <strong>the</strong> way to <strong>the</strong> dump,”<br />

implying that if we don’t take <strong>the</strong> object in, that’s its next stop! The first task is to separate <strong>the</strong> wheat from <strong>the</strong><br />

chaff. What is it? Where did it come from? Could it be a fake? Is <strong>the</strong>re some kind <strong>of</strong> a story associated with it? Is it<br />

particularly important to <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI? Then <strong>the</strong>re are practical considerations, like do we have <strong>the</strong> space?<br />

Is <strong>the</strong> object infested with bugs, mold, parasites or o<strong>the</strong>r pests that might infect o<strong>the</strong>r holdings in our collections? If<br />

it is in need <strong>of</strong> conservation treatments to stabilize it, do we have <strong>the</strong> facilities and expertise? If not, can we afford<br />

to send it out for analysis and treatment?<br />

Every time we turn down an <strong>of</strong>fering <strong>the</strong>re is <strong>the</strong> concern people will stop thinking <strong>of</strong> us “on <strong>the</strong> way to <strong>the</strong> dump”<br />

and something important like <strong>the</strong> Murphy land grant (see “A Lucky Find”) will end up lining <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> a bird cage<br />

or <strong>the</strong> Great Seal <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> (see “New Acquisitions”) will become a good small boat anchor.<br />

So how can you tell <strong>the</strong> difference between treasure and trash? Start by taking your treasure or trash to <strong>the</strong> kind<br />

<strong>of</strong> experts who hang out in museums. In this issue Deltiologist Jeffrey C. Dodge gives us an object lesson in how to<br />

recognize <strong>the</strong> importance and value <strong>of</strong> an easily underrated artifact: <strong>the</strong> picture postcard. In <strong>the</strong> normal course <strong>of</strong><br />

events a postcard is kept for a day or two and thrown away. But every once in a while, an example will be put it in<br />

a safe place for 100 years or more and bingo! Now, having become a very rare historical document, it is definitely<br />

worth keeping.<br />

Sometimes an object is both treasure and trash, depending on your point <strong>of</strong> view. The Governor’s Office recently<br />

sent over a massive, cast iron machine that was taking up a lot <strong>of</strong> space and completely useless—just trash. We recognized<br />

it as <strong>the</strong> press that goes with <strong>the</strong> Great Seal <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, donated to <strong>the</strong> Museum decades<br />

ago—a marvelous treasure! a<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 53


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

This 1905 “Real Picture Postcard” shows <strong>the</strong> American Consulate on Grand Turk, later converted into <strong>the</strong> famous Turks Head Inn. Sender Jones<br />

marked <strong>the</strong> location <strong>of</strong> his <strong>of</strong>fice with an “X” on <strong>the</strong> lower window.<br />

I’ll Send You a Postcard<br />

This “deltiologist” discusses <strong>the</strong> TCI’s earliest known picture postcards.<br />

By Jeffrey C. Dodge<br />

Editor’s Note: In this day <strong>of</strong> instantaneous digital communication where every cell phone is also a camera<br />

and a photo taken by a tourist on Grand Turk can be viewed by someone in China only seconds later,<br />

<strong>the</strong> traditional utility <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> humble postcard may be diminishing. At <strong>the</strong> same time, <strong>the</strong> collectability <strong>of</strong><br />

old picture postcards (“PPCs”) is burgeoning and <strong>the</strong> activity <strong>of</strong> collecting and studying <strong>the</strong>m has its own<br />

name, “Deltiology.” Postcards differ from o<strong>the</strong>r collectibles such as stamps and baseball cards in that <strong>the</strong>y<br />

<strong>of</strong>ten contain important, even unique, historical information.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> following article, deltiologist Jeffrey C. Dodge shares his knowledge <strong>of</strong> not only some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

earliest images <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk, but also how and by whom <strong>the</strong>y were manufactured, who sent <strong>the</strong>m, and<br />

who received <strong>the</strong>m 111 years ago!<br />

54 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

The earliest known picture postcards <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />

& Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> were published in 1904 by John Walker<br />

& Co. Ltd., London. These postcards, <strong>of</strong> which only five<br />

are known, were pr<strong>of</strong>essionally printed with titles on <strong>the</strong><br />

bottom front in red letters. The scenes on <strong>the</strong> five known<br />

postcards include a view <strong>of</strong> Duke Street, two different<br />

views <strong>of</strong> Front Street, men loading lighters at <strong>the</strong> beach<br />

and men raking salt. The John Walker anchor logo in red<br />

ink appeared on <strong>the</strong> backs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se postcards which were<br />

undivided, as only <strong>the</strong> address was to be written <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

Who actually printed <strong>the</strong>m for <strong>the</strong> John Walker Co. Ltd. is<br />

unknown.<br />

In 1905, an as-yet-unidentified photographer on<br />

Grand Turk produced what are known as real photo postcards<br />

(“RPPCs”) from at least four different photographs.<br />

A real photo postcard is produced by printing directly<br />

from a photographic negative onto heavy photographic<br />

paper <strong>the</strong> size <strong>of</strong> a postcard that usually has a pre-printed<br />

postcard back. This was an inexpensive way for a photographer—pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

or amateur—to produce postcards<br />

without having to order hundreds at a time from a printing<br />

company. In o<strong>the</strong>r words, real photo postcards could<br />

be produced on an as-needed basis at home or in <strong>the</strong><br />

photographer’s darkroom.<br />

The first documented real photo postcard printed on<br />

commercially available photographic paper with a postcard<br />

back was mailed in 1899. It was probably printed<br />

on Kodak’s Velox paper. George Eastman’s Kodak Co.<br />

bought <strong>the</strong> Velox process from <strong>the</strong> Nepera Chemical Co.<br />

in 1899 and began producing photo paper with a postcard<br />

back that same year. In 1903, Kodak released <strong>the</strong> Nr.<br />

3A Folding Pocket camera designed to use film that produced<br />

a negative <strong>the</strong> size <strong>of</strong> a postcard so that it could<br />

be contact printed onto Velox postcard paper.<br />

These five postcards <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk, produced in<br />

1905, are <strong>the</strong> earliest real photo postcards <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> known to date. These were printed on photographic<br />

paper manufactured by <strong>the</strong> Anthony and Scovill<br />

Company (Ansco) that was specifically designed to produce<br />

postcards. These photographic papers had Ansco’s<br />

CYKO logo in <strong>the</strong> stamp box pre-printed on <strong>the</strong> back side.<br />

Because <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong> early postcards was to be used<br />

just for <strong>the</strong> address, any message had to be written on<br />

<strong>the</strong> front. This is why many early postcards had space<br />

to <strong>the</strong> left or right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> image for a short note. The<br />

U.S.A. didn’t permit messages on <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong> postcards<br />

These two picture postcards from Grand Turk circa 1904 depict (from<br />

top): Heavy seas crashing against <strong>the</strong> seawall on Front Street. Men<br />

loading lighters on <strong>the</strong> beach with <strong>the</strong> customs dock in <strong>the</strong> background.<br />

Both were pr<strong>of</strong>essionally printed with titles on <strong>the</strong> bottom.<br />

until 1907—England began to allow <strong>the</strong>m in 1902. All five<br />

known 1905 RPPCs <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk scenes were mailed<br />

and all had messages written on <strong>the</strong> front.<br />

Two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se real photo postcards were mailed to <strong>the</strong><br />

same person in Arkansas from <strong>the</strong> same person on Grand<br />

Turk. They are especially interesting because <strong>the</strong> sender<br />

made a notation on both <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m. He marked a window<br />

on <strong>the</strong> image <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> American consulate building and a<br />

view from across <strong>the</strong> salt ponds <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> consulate,<br />

or <strong>the</strong> building next to it, with an “X”. He states on<br />

<strong>the</strong>se postcards that <strong>the</strong> “X” indicates where he worked<br />

and lived.<br />

These two RPPCs were posted by Mr. Walter Stanley<br />

Jones who was <strong>the</strong> U.S. Vice Consul between 1895 and<br />

1909 and Deputy Consul between 1909 and 1914. This<br />

attribution is based on a 1904 John Walker Co. Ltd.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 55


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Top: American Vice Consul W. Stanley Jones titled this card “Ga<strong>the</strong>ring<br />

Salt” and marked his residence with a small “X” just to <strong>the</strong> left <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

windmill.<br />

Left: The revolutionary Nr. 3A Folding Pocket Kodak camera used<br />

postcard sized film which could be used to make contact prints<br />

directly from <strong>the</strong> negatives.<br />

postcard he posted to <strong>the</strong> same person and signed with<br />

his initials. These three postcards were mailed to Miss<br />

Berna Bedford <strong>of</strong> Bentonville, Arkansas. The connection<br />

between Mr. Jones and Miss Bedford is unknown.<br />

Unfortunately, <strong>the</strong> creator <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se real photo postcards<br />

is unknown, but may have been ei<strong>the</strong>r E. Neale<br />

Coverley or possibly John C. Crisson; both were photographers<br />

known to be on Grand Turk during this time period.<br />

It would be very helpful if anyone knowing about o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

photographers living on Grand Turk during <strong>the</strong> period<br />

1895–1930 would contact <strong>the</strong> author at: tinqua1512@<br />

gmail.com. a<br />

The author wishes to thank Tom Giraldi, Nigel Sadler, and<br />

Judy Lawrie for providing images and information used<br />

for this article.<br />

56 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

This 1888 document, hand-written on stamped and sealed parchment, grants Jeremiah Murphy ownership <strong>of</strong> a salina near <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn tip<br />

<strong>of</strong> Grand Turk.<br />

A Lucky Find<br />

You never know what may lie in <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> an old box!<br />

Story & Photos By Nikki Jennings<br />

It was a normal day at <strong>the</strong> museum—couples and families coming by to visit <strong>the</strong> exhibits while o<strong>the</strong>rs<br />

were popping into <strong>the</strong> shop to pick up postcards or bags <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay salt—when Ann Dempsey appeared.<br />

Ann is a (very) long time resident <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk and a great supporter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> museum. I remember her<br />

words exactly: “Why don’t you take a look at this, tell me what you think. Do you think <strong>the</strong> museum might<br />

be interested?”<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 57


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Those were her words as she handed me a stiff,<br />

yellowed, folded piece <strong>of</strong> paper. It turned out to be parchment<br />

and I very gingerly opened it up to find a land grant<br />

for a Salina near Hawk’s Nest on Grand Turk in <strong>the</strong> name<br />

<strong>of</strong> Jeremiah Denis Murphy from 1881!<br />

“I know we would be most interested!,” I said to Ann,<br />

struck by <strong>the</strong> magnitude <strong>of</strong> this piece <strong>of</strong> parchment. We<br />

had recently opened a new exhibit on Jeremiah Denis<br />

Murphy, an Irish hard hat diver and salvager who resided<br />

on Grand Turk from <strong>the</strong> mid-1850s until his death here in<br />

1895. This piece <strong>of</strong> paper was fur<strong>the</strong>r pro<strong>of</strong> that Jeremiah<br />

was indeed a true resident <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island. Ann and I made<br />

a date to meet for lunch when she would tell me all about<br />

finding this incredible document.<br />

She was <strong>of</strong>f and I hurried to <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong>fice to take<br />

ano<strong>the</strong>r, longer look at it. Again I carefully unfolded <strong>the</strong><br />

brittle parchment, taking note <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> green ribbon and<br />

red wax seal attaching a map <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Salina to <strong>the</strong> Grant,<br />

and began reading <strong>the</strong> beautiful calligraphy:<br />

“Victoria by <strong>the</strong> Grace <strong>of</strong> God <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> United Kingdom <strong>of</strong><br />

Great Britain, and Ireland, Queen, defender <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> faith,<br />

and so forth . . .” and on it goes about how Jeremiah Denis<br />

Murphy will pay a yearly sum <strong>of</strong> 20 shillings for <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Salina near Hawk’s Nest. It is signed by Henry Moore<br />

Jackson, Commissioner “in and over our said islands” on<br />

April 20, 1888. Now I was greatly looking forward to find<br />

out how Ann had come across this document.<br />

We met a few weeks later and <strong>the</strong> story, or what<br />

<strong>the</strong>re is <strong>of</strong> it, came pouring out. It’s not hard to get<br />

Ann talking—she has many a good tale and she is,<br />

after all, Irish! Ann Dempsey arrived on Grand Turk on<br />

May 25, 1964, <strong>the</strong> young bride <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> new Magistrate<br />

Finbar Dempsey. Finbar had come to replace <strong>the</strong> recently<br />

deceased Magistrate Camiade. He remained magistrate<br />

for <strong>the</strong> next 5 1/2 years, <strong>of</strong>ten travelling by boat (Ann<br />

said it was known as <strong>the</strong> “Vomit Comet”) to <strong>the</strong> different<br />

islands to hold court. In those days, Ann was busy<br />

with a growing family and involvement in <strong>the</strong> Women’s<br />

Federation, which did things like weigh newborn babies<br />

and get toge<strong>the</strong>r at Dillon Hall to sew aprons and potholders<br />

for sale at <strong>the</strong> Anglican Christmas Bazaar.<br />

A highlight <strong>of</strong> those years was Queen Elizabeth’s visit<br />

in 1966. “Did you meet <strong>the</strong> Queen?” I asked innocently.<br />

Ann laughed and said, “But Nikki, I had lunch aboard <strong>the</strong><br />

Royal Yacht Britannia!”<br />

When Finbar resigned his post he opened <strong>the</strong> first<br />

An excited Ann Dempsey shows her amazing find. How many o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

such discoveries still slumber in <strong>the</strong> bottoms <strong>of</strong> forgotten boxes?<br />

legal practice in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Ann explained how interest<br />

was just beginning in and around Grace Bay. (In fact, it was<br />

a number <strong>of</strong> years before development started in earnest<br />

on Providenciales.) In <strong>the</strong> late 1980s <strong>the</strong>y built an <strong>of</strong>fice<br />

in downtown Grand Turk. When <strong>the</strong>y closed that <strong>of</strong>fice in<br />

2009, all <strong>the</strong> current files were sent to <strong>the</strong> Providenciales<br />

<strong>of</strong>fice and what was left was brought to <strong>the</strong>ir house on<br />

<strong>the</strong> Ridge. There <strong>the</strong>y remained, untouched until now.<br />

Finbar passed away in 2014, and Ann is just now<br />

going through old papers. At <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

boxes, which contained old Christmas cards and such,<br />

was a brown file with <strong>the</strong> name “Camiade” written across<br />

it. In it were legal notes and receipts and a folded, brittle,<br />

yellowed parchment which turned out to be <strong>the</strong> land<br />

grant for Jeremiah Denis Murphy.<br />

“I don’t know how it got <strong>the</strong>re. I can only imagine that<br />

when Finbar took over Camiade’s <strong>of</strong>fice he ga<strong>the</strong>red some<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> things laying about and put <strong>the</strong>m in this file. Why<br />

did Camiade have this land grant? And why Camiade’s<br />

file is among old Christmas cards is a mystery.” Ann gave<br />

me a big smile and said, “You’re going to have to call this<br />

article ‘A Lucky Find’ because that’s really what it is.”<br />

Yes, Ann, it really is a lucky find. Thank you for<br />

finding it. The museum plans to have this document pr<strong>of</strong>essionally<br />

framed by an archivist. It will proudly hang in<br />

our exhibit <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> extraordinary Jeremiah Denis Murphy,<br />

hard hat diver, salvager <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> HMS Rhone and <strong>the</strong> sunken<br />

city <strong>of</strong> Port Royal, and owner <strong>of</strong> a Salina near Hawk’s Nest.<br />

a<br />

58 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

DWYANE KRZANOWSKI<br />

The Quiz: Celebrating TCI’s history and cultural heritage<br />

By Museum Manager Candianne Williams<br />

The first annual Turks & Caicos National History and Cultural Heritage Secondary Schools Quiz was held in<br />

February and March as one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> events marking <strong>the</strong> Museum’s 25th anniversary. It was conceptualized to<br />

support <strong>the</strong> Museum’s first outdoor exhibit—<strong>the</strong> Caicos<br />

Heritage House and Garden in <strong>the</strong> Village at Grace Bay.<br />

Facilitators from <strong>the</strong> TCI Government Departments <strong>of</strong><br />

Culture, Education, Environment & Maritime Affairs,<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Museum worked with teachers from six high<br />

schools to provide study material and appropriate<br />

questions for <strong>the</strong> quiz. Because <strong>the</strong> United Nations<br />

Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization’s<br />

all-inclusive definition <strong>of</strong> “Cultural Heritage” was used<br />

to establish <strong>the</strong> parameters <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> quiz, an excursion<br />

to Cap Haïtien in Haiti to visit <strong>the</strong> Citadelle, a UNESCO<br />

protected world heritage site, was chosen as <strong>the</strong> prize The Quiz was created to support <strong>the</strong> Caicos Heritage House on <strong>the</strong><br />

Museum’s campus in <strong>the</strong> Village at Grace Bay.<br />

for <strong>the</strong> winning team and <strong>the</strong>ir coach.<br />

The six participating schools were Marjorie Basden High School, Raymond Gardiner High School, Maranatha<br />

High School, Wesley Methodist School, TCIPS Comprehensive High School and Clement Howell High School.<br />

Sponsor Fortis TCI hosted <strong>the</strong> closely contested preliminary round on February 25, <strong>2016</strong> in <strong>the</strong> training room<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir corporate <strong>of</strong>fice. All <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> teams<br />

performed outstandingly in <strong>the</strong> preliminary<br />

round. Maranatha and Clement Howell High<br />

Schools emerged as winners from <strong>the</strong> group<br />

<strong>of</strong> very well prepared teams who did a fantastic<br />

job <strong>of</strong> representing <strong>the</strong>ir schools. They<br />

have made us all proud.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> finals held at Gustarvus<br />

At <strong>the</strong> Quiz preliminaries, participating teams got down to business. Lightbourne Sports Complex on March 1,<br />

both teams appeared a little nervous—or perhaps<br />

just a little anxious to begin—but once we started <strong>the</strong>re was<br />

never a delay to hit <strong>the</strong> buzzers and answer <strong>the</strong> questions. Both<br />

teams seemed to have <strong>the</strong> answers ready, while some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> adults<br />

were still racking <strong>the</strong>ir brains.<br />

What were <strong>the</strong> questions like? This will give you some idea and<br />

test your “TCI IQ” at <strong>the</strong> same time:<br />

Question 5) How many tons <strong>of</strong> salt did <strong>the</strong> Turks islands produce<br />

on average, annually between 1888 and 1907?<br />

Question 18) Please complete this sentence by giving us <strong>the</strong> year: Rachel Harvey served as Quiz moderator, with<br />

Alexander R. McLeod as judge.<br />

Still considered <strong>the</strong> “Hurricane <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Century,” <strong>the</strong> Great Hurricane<br />

<strong>of</strong> XXXX devastated all <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> from Grand Turk to Florida.<br />

Question 27) Which tree also known as “Wood <strong>of</strong> Life” is indigenous to <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and sinks in water?<br />

Question 33) Name <strong>the</strong> only recorded female boat builder in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

(See answers on page 65.)<br />

CANDIANNE WILLIAMS<br />

VIVIAN TYSON<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 59


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

After four rounds, Clement<br />

Howell High School had won.<br />

Team members Aravna Lucsama,<br />

Elishah Sidnord, Solomon<br />

Dormeus, and <strong>the</strong>ir coach Ms.<br />

Anetra Musgrove were jubilant.<br />

Congratulations to Clement<br />

Howell High School on winning<br />

<strong>the</strong> quiz and Maranatha High<br />

School for a fantastic performance.<br />

We would like to thank<br />

our dedicated Quiz organizers<br />

and <strong>the</strong> many supporters and<br />

hard-working judges for <strong>the</strong>ir The Clement Howell High School winning team, with (from left at back) coach Anetra Musgrove,<br />

Museum Director Pat Saxton, and Ludwina Fulford, display <strong>the</strong>ir well-earned trophy.<br />

enthusiastic participation. Our<br />

sponsors: Fortis TCI, Caicu Naniki Tours, and Marco Travel were instrumental in making this event a success.<br />

For more details about <strong>the</strong> Quiz, visit http://tcmuseum.org/a-day-at-<strong>the</strong>-national-museum/first-annual-history-cultural-heritage-quiz/.<br />

TCI Director <strong>of</strong> Culture Ms. Ludwina Fulford said, “The intricate details <strong>of</strong> our heritage should not only be<br />

valued for what <strong>the</strong>y are, but we should ensure that <strong>the</strong>y are also preserved.” The Turks and Caicos National<br />

Museum remains committed to preserving and promoting <strong>the</strong> history and heritage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se <strong>Islands</strong>. Through<br />

activities like <strong>the</strong> Quiz, we can work with our youth to give <strong>the</strong>m a better understanding and appreciation <strong>of</strong> it<br />

so that <strong>the</strong>y will be equipped to preserve and transmit it to <strong>the</strong> next generation. a<br />

VIVIAN TYSON<br />

Join <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />

Become a Member and receive a year’s subscription<br />

to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> (which includes<br />

Astrolabe), free admission to <strong>the</strong> Museum, and a<br />

Members’ Discount in <strong>the</strong> Museum Shop.<br />

Senior (62+) $35 • Individual $50<br />

Family/Friend $100<br />

Sponsor $250• Contributor $500 • Partner $750<br />

To join*, send name, address, email, and type <strong>of</strong><br />

membership, along with cheque or money order<br />

payable to “Turks & Caicos National Museum” to:<br />

VIVIAN TYSON<br />

Don Stark <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI Reef Fund and Talisha Simons <strong>of</strong> Fortis TCI<br />

present a certificate and gift to Elishah Sidnord, member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

winning team from Clement Howell High School.<br />

Friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National<br />

Museum<br />

39 Condesa Road<br />

Santa Fe, NM 87508 USA<br />

Or, visit:<br />

www.tcmuseum.org/membership-support/<br />

*For U.S. residents, support <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum is tax-deductible via<br />

Friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum, Attn: Donald<br />

H. Keith, 39 Condesa Road, Santa Fe NM 87508, our affiliated<br />

institution and registered 501 (c) (3).<br />

60 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Museum matters<br />

Story & Photos By Museum Director Pat Saxton<br />

We need a National Archive<br />

Not a week goes by without a request for information<br />

at our info@tcmuseum.org email. Sometimes folks are<br />

just asking for opening hours or bird tour information.<br />

But o<strong>the</strong>r requests ask us to identify a place, a<br />

residence seen on an old postcard, or provide general<br />

information about all <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. New developments<br />

like Sailrock on South Caicos enlist <strong>the</strong> Museum’s help<br />

so <strong>the</strong>y can provide historically and scientifically correct<br />

information for <strong>the</strong>ir walking tours. Then <strong>the</strong>re<br />

are <strong>the</strong> unique requests, like <strong>the</strong> US Department <strong>of</strong><br />

Defense asking us about a missing plane and servicemen<br />

supposedly buried in North Caicos in 1943 (see<br />

next page). The Museum is pleased to help those looking<br />

for answers to <strong>the</strong>ir questions, but it all takes time,<br />

resources, and money.<br />

Once again, with no National Archives in <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />

& Caicos, <strong>the</strong> Museum is <strong>the</strong> only “go to” place for<br />

this kind <strong>of</strong> information. But with our tiny staff it is<br />

impossible to accommodate a lot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se requests.<br />

Most civilized countries recognize <strong>the</strong> need to have a<br />

National Archive, funded and operated by <strong>the</strong> government<br />

and accessible to <strong>the</strong> public, where important<br />

documents are securely stored and organized. Such a<br />

National Archive is not a frivolous luxury. As <strong>the</strong> written<br />

memory <strong>of</strong> a nation, it is an essential requirement.<br />

Without it, a country has no identity.<br />

It is not just “ancient” history we are concerned<br />

about. In fact, we probably know more about what happened<br />

in <strong>the</strong>se <strong>Islands</strong> in <strong>the</strong> 19th century than we do<br />

about what happened in <strong>the</strong> 20th century! Where and<br />

how are government records from <strong>the</strong> 20th and 21st<br />

century being kept? The very few “modern” records we<br />

have are not in good condition—not because we have<br />

not preserved <strong>the</strong>m, but because <strong>the</strong>y were already<br />

deteriorating when we acquired <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

The Turks & Caicos National Museum is not funded<br />

in any way by <strong>the</strong> TCI Government, yet we continue to<br />

function as a national archive housing and caring for<br />

records that would o<strong>the</strong>rwise be destroyed.<br />

National Archives do not just happen. It takes recognition<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> a national archive and <strong>the</strong><br />

political will to support its funding and staff. Citizens<br />

and residents should make <strong>the</strong>ir elected <strong>of</strong>ficials aware<br />

<strong>of</strong> this dereliction <strong>of</strong> duty and lobby for <strong>the</strong> creation <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Archive. a<br />

New acquistions<br />

Because <strong>the</strong> National Museum is <strong>the</strong> only trusted repository<br />

for Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> history, artifacts are<br />

frequently donated or placed on permanent loan with<br />

us. Sometimes <strong>the</strong>ir provenance (origin and identity) is<br />

well known, but o<strong>the</strong>r times <strong>the</strong>y are mysterious. The<br />

two recent acquisitions below are typical examples.<br />

Governor’s seal press:<br />

HE Governor Beckingham’s <strong>of</strong>fice donated this large,<br />

heavy press for <strong>the</strong> Great Seal <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>. Used to au<strong>the</strong>nticate <strong>of</strong>ficial documents, <strong>the</strong><br />

weighted handles were swung around to screw <strong>the</strong> seal<br />

down and press it into a paper wafer (and sometimes<br />

ribbons) glued to a document, <strong>the</strong>n reversed to release<br />

it. Once we build a case for <strong>the</strong> seal, it will have a permanent<br />

home in <strong>the</strong> Governor and Government exhibit.<br />

This (probably) 19th or early 20th century seal press would have<br />

been used to au<strong>the</strong>nticate certain important documents. Such<br />

presses are still used for that purpose all over <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

Rolling pin:<br />

Volunteers John and Debra Hayes are avid beach combers.<br />

After one <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk’s infamous Westerlies,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Hayes found an old, handmade rolling pin on <strong>the</strong><br />

beach. It could be from one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wrecks <strong>of</strong>f Pillory<br />

Beach or . . . who knows? But it will now have a place <strong>of</strong><br />

honor in our 19th century kitchen. a<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 61


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

New volunteers<br />

Judy Lawrie has been volunteering at <strong>the</strong> Museum since<br />

March, <strong>2016</strong>. She is researching her TCI family and has<br />

been instrumental in assisting o<strong>the</strong>rs with genealogical<br />

research. When we receive “info” questions about family<br />

members, we ask for Judy’s assistance.<br />

Judy always knew<br />

that her mo<strong>the</strong>r,<br />

Gloria Darrell,<br />

and her grandparents,<br />

Vera (Jones)<br />

and Donald<br />

Darrell, were born<br />

in TCI. O<strong>the</strong>r than<br />

that she knew<br />

very little. She<br />

researched on<br />

Ancestry.com and<br />

found that her’s was one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first 40 families to<br />

come from Bermuda to live on Grand Turk and Salt<br />

Cay to start <strong>the</strong> salt industry. Well-known names<br />

in <strong>the</strong> TCI : Stubbs, Styles, Saunders, Darrell, Jones,<br />

Butterfield, Frith, Astwood, Coverley, Murphy, Durham<br />

and many o<strong>the</strong>rs are all in her family tree. That drew<br />

her to visiting Grand Turk and she fell in love with <strong>the</strong><br />

island. She now is a snowbird and spends her time here<br />

researching her family history and helping <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />

and o<strong>the</strong>rs with family search questions.<br />

Most folks know Ms. Ivy Basden from her long<br />

association with <strong>the</strong> Osprey Beach Hotel. She came to<br />

see us after she retired, inquiring as to whe<strong>the</strong>r we<br />

could use her assistance. We are grateful for Ivy’s<br />

help, and it is wonderful<br />

to once again<br />

see her smiling face<br />

greeting customers!<br />

She will assist in <strong>the</strong><br />

gift shop.<br />

We are thankful<br />

for all <strong>of</strong> our volunteers,<br />

especially<br />

those who know<br />

<strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> Grand<br />

Turk from a personal<br />

standpoint! a<br />

Unsolved mysteries<br />

The Museum constantly receives requests for information<br />

from both government and private sectors.<br />

Recently we were asked for information about an<br />

account that <strong>the</strong> bodies <strong>of</strong> two US servicemen washed<br />

up on <strong>the</strong> shore <strong>of</strong> North Caicos in 1943 during World<br />

War II. Evidently, <strong>the</strong> family <strong>of</strong> Technical Sgt. James<br />

Hughbanks recently contacted <strong>the</strong> US Defense POW/<br />

MIA Accounting Agency requesting a review <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> circumstances<br />

surrounding <strong>the</strong> flight he and six o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

crewmen were on when it disappeared in <strong>the</strong> vicinity<br />

<strong>of</strong> North Caicos.<br />

Naturally, we were intrigued by this 73 year-old<br />

“cold case” with very little hard evidence to go on. By<br />

sharing this story with our readers we are hoping that<br />

we might reach someone who can supply new information<br />

so that <strong>the</strong> remains <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se servicemen can be<br />

located and brought back to <strong>the</strong>ir families in <strong>the</strong> US.<br />

In preparation for combat in <strong>the</strong> North African<br />

Theater in 1943, <strong>the</strong> 487th Bombardment Squadron<br />

was ferrying its aircraft along <strong>the</strong> South Atlantic Route<br />

to North Africa. Technical Sergeant Hughbanks was <strong>the</strong><br />

radio operator aboard B-25C serial #42-32247, which<br />

was flying in a formation <strong>of</strong> six aircraft from Morrison<br />

Field, Florida to Borinquen Field, Puerto Rico. The formation<br />

departed Morrison Field at approximately 10:00<br />

AM on 18 February 1943. The o<strong>the</strong>r five aircraft flying<br />

in <strong>the</strong> formation arrived at Borinquen Field at 3:20 PM;<br />

however, B-25C serial #42-32247 with Sgt Hughbanks<br />

on board was not with <strong>the</strong> formation when it landed.<br />

According to information provided by crewmembers<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r aircraft, Hughbanks’ aircraft became separated<br />

from <strong>the</strong> formation when it flew into a cloud<br />

formation halfway through <strong>the</strong> flight, at approximately<br />

22 o North 72 o West, reducing visibility and forcing<br />

<strong>the</strong>m to rely on instruments.<br />

WIKIMEDIA<br />

62 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Aircraft conducted search operations for<br />

Hughbanks’ aircraft throughout <strong>the</strong> area along <strong>the</strong><br />

flight route from 19–23 February 1943 without success.<br />

Reports that <strong>the</strong> missing plane had landed safely<br />

in Haiti and Cuba proved to be unverifiable and all<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r reports and rumors about <strong>the</strong> crew were thoroughly<br />

investigated by <strong>the</strong> Army Air Forces in 1943<br />

with negative results. Fur<strong>the</strong>r, despite <strong>the</strong> fact that all<br />

possible locations where B-25C #42-32247 might have<br />

landed or members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> crew might have reached in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caribbean, <strong>the</strong>re were no verified <strong>of</strong>ficial reports <strong>of</strong><br />

any members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> crew <strong>of</strong> B-25C #42-32247 being<br />

found after 18 Feb 1943.<br />

The <strong>of</strong>ficial Department <strong>of</strong> Defense report also<br />

mentions an account <strong>of</strong> an aircraft crashing on 18<br />

February 1943 near Moore Hall, North Caicos, about<br />

one and a half miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast <strong>of</strong> Three Marys Cays.<br />

The account states that two bodies were recovered<br />

afterward, both <strong>of</strong> which were buried by local inhabitants.<br />

A medical <strong>of</strong>ficer was dispatched from Grand<br />

Turk to identify <strong>the</strong> bodies, but no follow-up report<br />

has been located. This account was originally believed<br />

to be associated with Hughbanks’ missing B-25C.<br />

Unfortunately, none <strong>of</strong> it could be verified, including<br />

whe<strong>the</strong>r a medical <strong>of</strong>ficer was ever actually dispatched.<br />

With such sketchy information <strong>the</strong>re was nothing <strong>the</strong><br />

Museum could do to assist <strong>the</strong> investigation. a<br />

Evening with <strong>the</strong> experts<br />

On April 12, <strong>2016</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum held “An Evening with<br />

<strong>the</strong> Experts” under <strong>the</strong> stars on <strong>the</strong> outside deck. Free<br />

to members, this is <strong>the</strong> first in a four-part series.<br />

Ivan Day, elder bro<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk residents<br />

Séamus and Paul Day, is considered to be one <strong>of</strong><br />

Britain’s foremost food historians. The author <strong>of</strong> many<br />

books and academic papers, he is a well-known face<br />

on BBC television. He is particularly noted for his<br />

reconstructions <strong>of</strong> period meals and has curated exhibitions<br />

in major museums in <strong>the</strong> US and Europe. Ivan’s<br />

private collection <strong>of</strong> early culinary utensils is one <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> finest in Europe. On this occasion his topic was<br />

“Royal Ragouts: Courtly Dining and Cookery in Early<br />

Georgian Britain,” a lecture he previously delivered at<br />

<strong>the</strong> Queen’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace.<br />

The lecture was interesting and informative, taking<br />

Paul Day created this nine-foot long sugar palace for “The Edible<br />

Monument” exhibition at <strong>the</strong> Getty Center in Los Angeles.<br />

us back to a time when a meal was not only sustenance,<br />

but also an opportunity for artistic presentation and<br />

a statement <strong>of</strong> wealth. The craftsmanship that went<br />

into presentation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> dishes presented to 17th century<br />

royalty was indescribably beautiful! They even had<br />

ice cream molded to look like vegetables and fruit—<br />

and all done without electricity!<br />

Mr. Day’s knowledge and personal experiences<br />

in helping museums and studio sets with period dining<br />

must be unique in all <strong>the</strong> world. We thank him for<br />

taking time out from his holiday to give this lecture. For<br />

those who could not make <strong>the</strong> event, following are<br />

a few links to see <strong>the</strong> incredible detail that Mr. Day<br />

incorporates in his work. For more information, visit<br />

his website www.historicfood.com. a<br />

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qebdv6yH2B8<br />

http://www.nytimes.com/2013/02/24/arts/design/<br />

culinary-exhibitions-add-life-to-museums-period-rooms.html<br />

http://www.npr.org/sections/<br />

<strong>the</strong>salt/2015/11/20/456627679/let-<strong>the</strong>m-eat-sugarsculpture-<strong>the</strong>-getty-celebrates-edible-table-art<br />

http://www.countryfile.com/countryside/evolution-country-christmas-dinner<br />

http://foodhistorjottings.blogspot.com/<br />

Answers to Quiz:<br />

Question 5) 67,000 tons<br />

Question 18) 1926<br />

Question 27) Lignum Vitae<br />

Question 33) Cecile Louise Deane-Smith (1932-2001)<br />

ABBIE FENTRESS SWANSON<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 63


MORGAN LUKER


sporting life<br />

DIGITAL HANDPRINT<br />

Opposite page: Sean Ewing races to <strong>the</strong> finish in <strong>the</strong> SURFside Spring Sprint.<br />

Above: Gorgeous Grace Bay is <strong>the</strong> setting for <strong>the</strong> 2015 annual “Race for <strong>the</strong> Conch” Eco-SeaSwim, drawing nearly 200 swimmers for four different<br />

swimming events. This year’s competition will be held on Saturday July 2, <strong>2016</strong>.<br />

Taking Back History<br />

A look at <strong>the</strong> sport <strong>of</strong> swimming in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

By Ben Stubenberg<br />

When a slave ship wrecked <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> coast <strong>of</strong> Martinique in 1679, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Africans, whose name has<br />

been lost to history, managed to escape <strong>the</strong> sinking vessel. He swam for 60 long hours before reaching<br />

shore — an astounding feat not duplicated by anyone for 300 years. The accomplishment is made even<br />

more incredible because he did it without a support boat guiding him, no regular rehydration or feedings<br />

along <strong>the</strong> way, and much <strong>of</strong> it at night in choppy, predatory waters.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 65


To <strong>the</strong> Europeans in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean at <strong>the</strong> time, this<br />

survival story was not entirely surprising, as <strong>the</strong> swimming<br />

ability <strong>of</strong> Africans was well known. Early explorers<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> West African coast 500 years ago <strong>of</strong>ten came<br />

across amazingly pr<strong>of</strong>icient swimmers — an astonishing<br />

sight because so few Europeans back <strong>the</strong>n could swim<br />

at all. The explorer Pieter de Marees said about Africans<br />

from <strong>the</strong> Gold Coast that <strong>the</strong>ir freestyle allowed <strong>the</strong>m to,<br />

“swim very fast, generally easily outdoing people <strong>of</strong> our<br />

nation in swimming and diving.”<br />

Bruce Wigo, CEO <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> International Swimming<br />

Hall <strong>of</strong> Fame in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, says evidence<br />

shows Africans had developed a highly pr<strong>of</strong>icient front<br />

crawl stroke with side breathing and perfect high elbow<br />

arm recovery. He notes wryly, “Africans were doing<br />

<strong>the</strong> Australian crawl before <strong>the</strong> Australian crawl was<br />

invented.”<br />

Slaveholders quickly recognized <strong>the</strong> unique aquatic<br />

capabilities <strong>of</strong> newly arrived slaves in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and<br />

regularly used <strong>the</strong>m to dive for pearls and recover treasure<br />

from shipwrecks. Indeed, <strong>the</strong> Europeans, and later,<br />

Americans, were so impressed that <strong>the</strong>y sometimes had<br />

slaves teach <strong>the</strong>m and <strong>the</strong>ir children how to swim properly<br />

and efficiently, a skill that had eluded <strong>the</strong>m since<br />

medieval times.<br />

In a tragic irony <strong>of</strong> history, <strong>the</strong> ability to swim by<br />

people <strong>of</strong> African descent was lost over time in <strong>the</strong> West<br />

Indies with a few notable exceptions, such as lobster<br />

Ian<strong>the</strong> Pratt Primary School students learn to swim with SURFside<br />

Ocean Academy lifesaving instructor Paul.<br />

and sponge divers in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos and elsewhere.<br />

Still, while many visitors to <strong>the</strong>se <strong>Islands</strong> joyfully plunge<br />

into <strong>the</strong> clear turquoise water and glide with confidence<br />

without a second thought, for far too many residents <strong>the</strong><br />

ocean has become something to avoid.<br />

In fact, it has become a cliché to express amazement<br />

that so many people living on islands surrounded by<br />

water can’t swim. While to a degree true and unacceptable,<br />

<strong>the</strong>re is nothing to be gained by dwelling on <strong>the</strong><br />

idea. Instead, why not reverse history and reinvent <strong>the</strong><br />

culture <strong>of</strong> swimming?<br />

MORGAN LUKER<br />

These proud high school students in North Caicos finished a four-day Swim & Survive course at Sandy Point beach. Pictured also are TCI Swim<br />

Federation swimmers and teachers Ben Stubenberg and Kevin Be<strong>the</strong>l. (Not pictured, Chloe Zimmermann.)<br />

66 www.timespub.tc


Local swim schools, TCI government agencies, and<br />

private donors are doing just that by collaborating on a<br />

single goal: Expand <strong>the</strong> ability to swim for all residents<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos regardless <strong>of</strong> ability to pay.<br />

Following are some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> swim initiatives that are making<br />

an impact on <strong>the</strong> broader TCI community:<br />

• Since 2012, Caicu Naniki Sports Adventures<br />

(founded by Ben Stubenberg and Chloe Zimmermann) has<br />

been teaching youngsters at <strong>the</strong> Provo Children’s Home<br />

on Saturdays how to swim and survive.<br />

• Since 2013, SURFside Ocean Academy (founded by<br />

Morgan Luker) has been working with <strong>the</strong> Edward Gartland<br />

Youth Center to give swim lessons to some 40 teens a<br />

year. Many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> students repeat <strong>the</strong> 10 session program<br />

and have become pr<strong>of</strong>icient swimmers.<br />

• Since 2013, FB Total Adventure (founded by Jill<br />

Swann) has been working with Extraordinary Minds to<br />

teach autistic kids <strong>the</strong> basics <strong>of</strong> swimming, along with<br />

teaching very young children water safety.<br />

• In 2014, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> Swim Federation<br />

designed and implemented a Swim & Survive program to<br />

help prevent drownings for Raymond Gardiner High School<br />

in North Caicos, per request from Vice Principal Tony<br />

Hislop. With financial assistance from David and Elizabeth<br />

Stone, 3 TCI Swim Federation members responded with<br />

four sessions that taught 38 students and 8 teachers to<br />

swim at Sandy Point.<br />

• In 2015, <strong>the</strong> TCI Red Cross began to incorporate a<br />

short learn-to-swim program for 15 summer campers in<br />

<strong>the</strong> ocean and <strong>the</strong> pool. The campers got a special treat<br />

when <strong>the</strong> TCI Swim Federation arranged for three-time<br />

Olympic Gold Medal winner Rowdy Gaines to join <strong>the</strong> local<br />

volunteer swim teachers to give <strong>the</strong>m a swim lesson.<br />

• For <strong>the</strong> past 10 years, <strong>the</strong> annual Commonwealth<br />

Beach Games held on Governor’s Beach in Grand Turk<br />

always incorporates a learn-to-swim element using local<br />

swim teachers, most recently from SURFside and Caicu<br />

Naniki.<br />

• For many summers now, <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong><br />

Environment and Coastal Resources (DECR) has incorporated<br />

a learn-to-swim program for its Junior Park Wardens<br />

using Provo swim teachers. Last year, DECR teamed up<br />

with Provo swim schools and Tina Randall to highlight<br />

World Oceans Day by <strong>of</strong>fering free swim lessons at <strong>the</strong><br />

Bight Children’s Park.<br />

This year, Caicu Naniki, SURFside, and Waterplay are<br />

teaming up with donors on a new initiative to work directly<br />

with selected schools to teach swimming and expand <strong>the</strong><br />

numbers even more. The pilot program will begin with<br />

DISTRIBUTOR FOR EVINRUDE & MERCURY<br />

OUTBOARDS, PURSUIT WORLD CLASS CAT,<br />

SUNDANCE AND BOSTON WHALER BOATS<br />

Lures and Live Bait<br />

Marine Hardware & Gear<br />

Fishing Gear & Supplies<br />

Marine Paints & Varnish<br />

Marine Batteries<br />

Sebago Docksiders<br />

& Sperry Topsiders Shoes<br />

BLUE HILLS ROAD<br />

PROVIDENCIALES<br />

TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS, B.W.I.<br />

PHONE: 649-946-4411<br />

FAX: 649-946-4945<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 67


a six week swim program for youngsters aged 12 and<br />

13 at no charge. The International School in Leeward,<br />

Providenciales opened this spring a 20-yard pool that will<br />

also be made available for use by swim clubs to teach<br />

youngsters, as well as International School students.<br />

As with many athletic endeavors, it is crucial that<br />

youngsters and adults learn to swim correctly from <strong>the</strong><br />

beginning and not fall into bad habits that have to be<br />

unlearned later. Swimming is a technical, thinking person’s<br />

sport, and so it is essential to emphasize relaxation<br />

and <strong>the</strong> need to focus on each motion and body part correctly<br />

— head position, hand placement, <strong>the</strong> “catch,” <strong>the</strong><br />

pull, arm recovery, hip rotation, and kick, among o<strong>the</strong>rs.<br />

The goal is to minimise drag and streamline <strong>the</strong> body. To<br />

get it right requires swim teachers with skills and experience<br />

to take students through a step-by-step process<br />

appropriate to <strong>the</strong> age and water comfort level <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

swimmer.<br />

Complementing <strong>the</strong>se learn-to-swim initiatives are<br />

three annual open water swim races in Grace Bay for<br />

youngsters and adults to set goals and have an opportunity<br />

to achieve <strong>the</strong>m in a benign but competitive<br />

environment. All races give proceeds to promote swimming<br />

and o<strong>the</strong>r local causes.<br />

The biggest and longest running event is <strong>the</strong> “Race for<br />

<strong>the</strong> Conch” Eco-SeaSwim. Founded by Caicu Naniki owners<br />

Ben Stubenberg and Chloe Zimmermann in 2010 with a<br />

lot <strong>of</strong> heart and hope, just 50 swimmers showed up to<br />

compete in a one mile event that first year. By 2015, <strong>the</strong><br />

race had nearly 200 swimmers with 2.4 mile, 1 mile, and<br />

1/2 mile races along with a 100 meter Children’s Swim.<br />

Half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> swim race participants come from overseas,<br />

which has also created a significant sports tourism revenue<br />

niche. The next race is set for July 2, <strong>2016</strong>. (See www.<br />

ecoseaswim.com.)<br />

The Waterplay Open Water Swim for Children was<br />

founded by Jill Swann in 2012 and has grown ever since<br />

to become a popular family event on Provo. Dedicated to<br />

kids, <strong>the</strong> event gives <strong>the</strong>m a forum to get excited about<br />

learning to swim and challenge <strong>the</strong>mselves in stages<br />

according to <strong>the</strong>ir ability with lots <strong>of</strong> support. Jill’s <strong>the</strong>me:<br />

“Never let ano<strong>the</strong>r child drown.” The fun swims feature<br />

50, 100, 200, 400, and 800 meter races for youngsters<br />

2 to 16 years old. It is held <strong>the</strong> first or second Sunday in<br />

November. (See www.waterplayprovo.com.)<br />

The SURFside Spring Swim founded by Morgan Luker<br />

began in 2015 to build on <strong>the</strong> growing interest in open<br />

water swimming in TCI that would also encourage more<br />

interest in <strong>the</strong> sport, particularly for young people. The<br />

very welcoming event for swimmers <strong>of</strong> all abilities features<br />

2 km, 800 meter, and 400 meter races plus a 100 meter<br />

Children’s Swim. It is held every spring in April. (For more<br />

information, visit www.surfsideoceanacademy.com.)<br />

Pushing <strong>the</strong> limits is an up and coming event called<br />

<strong>the</strong> “Caicos Cays Turquoise Water Swim,” an eight mile<br />

relay event made up <strong>of</strong> four-person teams swimming from<br />

Pine Cay to Grace Bay. The swim would follow <strong>the</strong> same<br />

route along <strong>the</strong> Caicos Cays as marathon swimmer Yuko<br />

Matsuzaki’s historic non-stop swims from Sandy Point,<br />

North Caicos to Grace Bay in 2014 and 2015.<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r popular fun and competitive island sporting<br />

events such as Windvibes and <strong>the</strong> TCI Triathlon include<br />

swim race segments that also allow for more swim practice<br />

and experience in friendly, well managed venues in<br />

Long Bay and Grace Bay.<br />

As significant as <strong>the</strong>se goals and activities are, <strong>the</strong>re<br />

is a big hurdle: No proper competitive pool. Most swim<br />

lessons take place in <strong>the</strong> ocean, but that is limited to calm<br />

days and lacks <strong>the</strong> element <strong>of</strong> a controlled environment<br />

that greatly facilitates learning. Fortunately, some resorts<br />

Fitness Knows No Limits<br />

The most complete sports centre in TCI, visit us behind IGA Supermarket (Leeward Highway)<br />

Guest passes available, no registration fees applied<br />

Contact us at: (649)442-6348, (649)442-6349, info@gracewaysports.com<br />

www.gracewaysportscentre.com<br />

GYM with over 50 Cybex cardio<br />

and weight machines<br />

Tennis & Squash Courts<br />

Indoor Ball Games<br />

Aerobics Classes<br />

Gymnastics<br />

Dance Classes<br />

Spinning<br />

Yoga<br />

Martial Arts<br />

Hockey<br />

Skating<br />

Personal Training<br />

Children's Camps<br />

68 www.timespub.tc


JILL SWANN<br />

This group <strong>of</strong> Oseta Jolly Primary School students is quite joyful after a swim lesson with FB Total Adventure Company.<br />

and local businesses have generously allowed limited use<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir pools at no charge or for a modest fee. These<br />

include pools at <strong>the</strong> Alexandra Resort, Grace Bay Club,<br />

Flamingo Divers, Wrightfully Fit, <strong>the</strong> Zanzi Bar, and as<br />

noted, <strong>the</strong> International School. But <strong>the</strong> demand is greater<br />

than <strong>the</strong> resources.<br />

Deputy Premier and Minister for Education, Youth,<br />

Sports, and Library Services Hon. Akierra Missick and <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI Swim Federation have been <strong>the</strong> leading advocates for<br />

building proper learning, training and competition pools<br />

to international standards. Fortunately, TCI has <strong>the</strong> local<br />

expertise to design and build pools to such standards.<br />

Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> designers and builders have already volunteered<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir expertise to ensure top quality at <strong>the</strong> best<br />

price. Change is in <strong>the</strong> air and, more importantly, in <strong>the</strong><br />

water.<br />

The interest and demand is <strong>the</strong>re. Parents want <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

kids to swim. More than a sport, it’s a life skill that not<br />

TCI SWIM FEDERATION MEMBERS<br />

Ben Stubenberg<br />

Chloe Zimmermann<br />

Dorn Fulford<br />

Morgan Luker<br />

Kevin Be<strong>the</strong>l<br />

Dan Redmond<br />

Jill Swann<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 69


TWR Sum <strong>Times</strong> 16 ad_Layout 1 5/15/16 1:15 PM Page 1<br />

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only can save a life, but lead to o<strong>the</strong>r water-based careers<br />

where <strong>the</strong> ability to swim is essential. No question —<br />

swimming is something every resident should do as part<br />

<strong>of</strong> being a Turks & Caicos Islander. Make it part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

culture again because that’s who we are.<br />

Over time, natural talent will rise from more youngsters<br />

in <strong>the</strong> water learning to swim, and <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos could see outstanding competitive swimmers able<br />

to race on <strong>the</strong> world stage. A start has been made: After a<br />

12 year hiatus, TCI sent its first swimmer, Laura Shaw, to<br />

compete in <strong>the</strong> 2015 CARIFTA Games. When one looks at<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r West Indian islands that have built proper training<br />

pools, <strong>the</strong> ability to swim and swim competitively has dramatically<br />

increased to a world class level. That can happen<br />

here too.<br />

History doesn’t have to be static or lock anyone into a<br />

mindset. There is still much to do, but everyone is united<br />

in making not being able to swim a thing <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> past. a<br />

Ben Stubenberg, is president <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Swim Federation and Co-Founder/Chief Swim Instructor at<br />

Caicu Naniki Sports Adventures. He can be contacted at<br />

info@caicunaniki.com or tciswim@yahoo.com.<br />

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70 www.timespub.tc


shape up<br />

Footprints in <strong>the</strong> sand<br />

By Dr. Rodney A. Kander, Consulting Podiatrist<br />

As you walk or run along <strong>the</strong> beautiful beaches <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, you leave behind an indelible<br />

you, a footprint in <strong>the</strong> sand. You may not even realize<br />

that this footprint, to <strong>the</strong> trained eye, reveals <strong>the</strong> architecture<br />

or structure <strong>of</strong> each individual’s foot type.<br />

Before <strong>the</strong> waves wash ashore, does <strong>the</strong> footprint<br />

show a flat foot (pes planus), a high arch (pes cavus), a<br />

bunion deformity (enlargement by <strong>the</strong> great toe), hammertoe<br />

(crooked toe deformity), or a long second toe<br />

(morton’s foot)? In <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> latter, I have had<br />

patients boldly exclaim, “This is a sign <strong>of</strong> intelligence!”<br />

Scientifically speaking, this has been an unproven <strong>the</strong>ory,<br />

but what is fact is that <strong>the</strong> foot is comprised <strong>of</strong> 26<br />

bones, 33 joints and over 100 ligaments, muscles and<br />

tendons. With this much concentration in one area <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> body, it is no wonder so many people repeat over<br />

and over again, “Oh my aching feet.”<br />

In addition to foot anatomy, <strong>the</strong>re are also systemic<br />

diseases that can affect foot health. Diabetes and neuropathy<br />

(loss <strong>of</strong> feeling) <strong>of</strong>ten go hand in hand, or in<br />

this case, step by step. A diabetic can simply walk barefoot<br />

on <strong>the</strong> beach and not realize that he or she has<br />

stepped on a seashell due to loss <strong>of</strong> sensation. The broken<br />

shell can penetrate <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> foot causing<br />

a sore. If unnoticed, this can lead to a diabetic ulcer.<br />

Even exposing <strong>the</strong> feet to <strong>the</strong> hot sun can cause a burn<br />

that diabetics can’t feel.<br />

The best cure for many foot complaints is prevention.<br />

Daily observation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> feet both top and bottom<br />

— using a mirror if necessary — can identify problems.<br />

Any concerns should be addressed to a pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

immediately. Proper stretching before and after a walk<br />

or run on <strong>the</strong> beach is a must. This is critical to help<br />

avoid common concerns such as plantar fasciitis, shin<br />

splints and stress fractures. If not going barefoot, <strong>the</strong>n<br />

wear a lightweight supportive pair <strong>of</strong> shoes. Consult a<br />

physician prior to this exercise to address any systemic<br />

concerns.<br />

So many people enjoy <strong>the</strong> beautiful beaches and<br />

cays <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, but here is <strong>the</strong> “key”<br />

to fully enjoy <strong>the</strong> experience.<br />

Protect <strong>the</strong> vital foundation <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> human body: your feet.<br />

It’s good for <strong>the</strong> sole (soul)! a<br />

Dr. Kander has practiced podiatry for 35 years. He lives<br />

in Virginia with his wife and potcake dog “Turk.” He<br />

considers <strong>the</strong> TCI his second home, where he loves to<br />

leave his own footprints in <strong>the</strong> sand.<br />

Dr. Kander is a Podiatric Consultant having<br />

provided general podiatric foot care, diabetic foot<br />

management, evaluation and treatment <strong>of</strong> pediatric<br />

deformities, orthotics, sports medicine, and has<br />

performed laser surgery, as well as <strong>the</strong> latest advancements<br />

in foot and ankle surgery.<br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 71


shape up<br />

Keeping your hair healthy in <strong>the</strong> sun<br />

By Brigitte Wildt, Stylist, Tangled Hair Salon<br />

Just as <strong>the</strong> sun damages your skin, it can damage<br />

your hair too. If you are spending a lot <strong>of</strong> time outdoors,<br />

use a hair care product that contains UV filters.<br />

It could be a gel, cream or spray-in that will protect your<br />

hair from sun damage, and keep your color-treated hair<br />

from fading.<br />

Wearing a wide-brimmed hat will keep your hair<br />

from being scorched, and it will also protect your scalp<br />

and ears from sunburn.<br />

Never shampoo your hair before swimming because<br />

it strips away your natural oils and makes your hair<br />

vulnerable to chlorine and salt. Saturate your hair with<br />

clean water or leave in conditioner and it won’t absorb<br />

as much chlorine or salt. Make sure to rinse your hair<br />

after your day on <strong>the</strong> beach or pool, or better still, several<br />

times during.<br />

You will probably wash your hair more frequently<br />

whilst in a hot climate to deal with sweat, so use a<br />

moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. Shampoo your<br />

scalp only, letting <strong>the</strong> suds run down <strong>the</strong> lengths <strong>of</strong><br />

your hair, cleansing it gently without drying it out. If<br />

you use hair styling products, use a clarifying shampoo<br />

once a week to clear away <strong>the</strong> product build up, <strong>the</strong>n<br />

follow with a deep conditioning treatment.<br />

Fight frizz by keeping your hair healthy and well<br />

maintained with regular deep conditioning treatments<br />

and trims. Anti-frizz serum helps to smooth <strong>the</strong> hair<br />

and add shine, but don’t use too much if you have very<br />

fine hair because it can weigh it down. And finally, style<br />

without stress. Don’t waste your time fighting <strong>the</strong> frizz<br />

on high humidity days—<strong>the</strong> frizz will win. Instead just<br />

have a side braid, a loose up-do or a slick ponytail.<br />

For true beachy styled hair, buy a salt spray or<br />

make one yourself: Dissolve 1 tablespoon sea salt in<br />

8 ounces <strong>of</strong> warm water, add 10 drops <strong>of</strong> lavender<br />

oil, shake well and spritz onto wet or dry hair. Add<br />

waves overnight by wrapping your damp, salt-sprayed<br />

hair into a sock bun above your head or wrap your hair<br />

around multiple socks, <strong>the</strong>n tie <strong>the</strong> sock ends. There<br />

are great examples on <strong>the</strong> Internet <strong>of</strong> both versions.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> morning remove <strong>the</strong><br />

sock bun or multi-socks and<br />

tousle your strands. Socks are<br />

more comfy than rollers and<br />

give you loose beachy waves.<br />

(What do you mean you forgot<br />

to pack socks?!!) a<br />

Brigitte Wildt was born in Germany and started her<br />

pr<strong>of</strong>ession as an apprentice when she was 15 years<br />

old. After working as a fully trained stylist for many<br />

years she entered <strong>the</strong> Munich Hair Academy to get her<br />

Master’s Certificate, which would allow her to open a<br />

salon and teach <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>ession to o<strong>the</strong>rs. In 1988 she<br />

went to Switzerland to work as a stylist. By 1996, having<br />

enough snow, cold, and mountains, she was ready<br />

for a change and moved to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

to open Captain Hook’s Hair & Beauty Salon. In 2005,<br />

wanting to spend more time with her son, she took up<br />

freelance, on-call styling for very special occasions and<br />

is now working as Stylist at Tangled Hair Salon at Ports<br />

<strong>of</strong> Call in Providenciales. a<br />

Tangled Hair Salon<br />

for cutting, styling and so much more<br />

GOLDWELL HAIR COLOURS<br />

without ammonia and with<br />

a pleasant fragrance.<br />

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hair like silk for up to 5 months.<br />

YUKO non-formaldehyde permanent<br />

hairstraightening without <strong>the</strong> damage.<br />

OLAPLEX <strong>the</strong> salon wonder-treatment<br />

that actually fixes damaged hair.<br />

Call 431 4247 (431 HAIR)<br />

See latest info at<br />

www.tangledhairsalonprovidenciales.com<br />

72 www.timespub.tc


faces and places<br />

Above from left: Karen Savory, Hon. Sean Astwood, Hon. Josephine Connolly, Hon. Washington Misick, Hon. Akierra Missick, Andrew Stone,<br />

Mark Garland, Jeanne Savory-Cockett; Prudence McCommish, Collette Coty, and Galmo “Gilley” Williams.<br />

“Food for Thought” Launch<br />

On April 5, <strong>2016</strong>, under <strong>the</strong> stars at The Palms Resort & Spa, Jeanne and Karen Savory welcomed key members <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> business community, government ministers, family, and friends to <strong>the</strong>ir newly founded charity’s first event. The<br />

launch was intended to make <strong>the</strong> charity’s presence known and encourage corporate sponsorship. With endless<br />

hors-d’oeuvres provided by The Palms and champagne donated by The Wine Cellar, a wonderful time was had by all.<br />

Food for Thought was founded by Jeanne and Karen Savory to provide free breakfast to all children in <strong>the</strong> government<br />

schools. The first phase, due to begin in September, will provide a healthy breakfast on every school day to <strong>the</strong> government<br />

primary schools in North, Middle and South Caicos and Salt Cay. Information about Food for Thought and<br />

how to donate is available by emailing foodforthoughttci@gmail.com or visiting foodforthoughttci.com.<br />

By Claire Parrish ~ Photos Courtesy TCI Sun<br />

Above from top left: “Food for Thought” attendees Sabrina Green; Richard Savory and Hon. Akierra Missick; Mark Garland; Robin Rosen and<br />

Abby H<strong>of</strong>fman; Yolander Forbes and Tueton Williams; Arthur Jones, Peter Savory and Maurice Ingham.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 73


esort report<br />

Opposite page: The new East Bay Resort on South Caicos is set on a beautiful, pristine beach.<br />

Above: Guest suites range from standard rooms to studios and two-bedroom suites, built surrounding a huge pool.<br />

Can You Keep a Secret?<br />

Adventurer discovers a new luxury resort on South Caicos.<br />

Story & Photos By John Galleymore<br />

When I explore <strong>the</strong> outer islands, comfort is simply a tent and roll-up mattress. But every so <strong>of</strong>ten, I like<br />

to experience some real luxury (especially when my wife Sally accompanies me!) This treat is usually<br />

reserved for trips to <strong>the</strong> US or an anniversary occasion on Grace Bay. So it was a real delight to recently<br />

discover <strong>the</strong> newly opened East Bay Resort on South Caicos. This beachfront resort brings luxury to one<br />

<strong>of</strong> TCI’s most historic islands and is a remarkable base from which to explore or simply relax.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 75


Our journey starts at Providenciales airport where<br />

we catch a flight with InterCaribbean Airways, whose<br />

schedule makes getting to South Caicos a breeze, and<br />

just 20 minutes later we gently touch down. (News has it<br />

that government is set to embark on a major infrastructure<br />

improvement at <strong>the</strong> airport.) We are greeted by <strong>the</strong><br />

charming and impeccably dressed Jeremiah, who transports<br />

us in a luxury SUV to <strong>the</strong> resort, just a few minutes<br />

away.<br />

On arrival at <strong>the</strong> plush lobby, we are greeted by<br />

Stephanie, who has a beaming smile and <strong>of</strong>fers us welcome<br />

cocktails so that we can start our vacation in style!<br />

After a speedy check-in we are driven by golf cart to our<br />

room which is on <strong>the</strong> second floor. The building is only<br />

four stories high, nestled amongst <strong>the</strong> surrounding seagrass.<br />

It feels like old-time Provo!<br />

We are pleasantly surprised at <strong>the</strong> room’s comfort<br />

and cleanliness. Having travelled extensively to all <strong>the</strong><br />

outer islands, accommodation can usually be described<br />

as “rustic,” but East Bay Resort compares to Grace Bay<br />

standards and beyond. Our large studio includes a balcony<br />

with ocean view, a full kitchen, and a huge bed. The<br />

kitchen is large and well equipped, and <strong>the</strong> management<br />

will even shuttle you to <strong>the</strong> local store for groceries.<br />

We decide to explore <strong>the</strong> beach. A short walk through<br />

beautifully landscaped gardens and we are alone on a<br />

pristine beach that stretches for over a mile! We see that<br />

it has been mechanically groomed, a nice touch indeed.<br />

The sand is s<strong>of</strong>t and powdery and <strong>the</strong> small cove is calm<br />

and tranquil. Already we feel a million miles from <strong>the</strong> rest<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world—this is escapism at its finest!<br />

We head back to <strong>the</strong> resort and learn that <strong>the</strong>re is a<br />

complimentary island tour that we are welcome to attend.<br />

Jeremiah is driver and guide, so we know it will be fun.<br />

Born in Middle Caicos but coming to South at <strong>the</strong> age <strong>of</strong><br />

four, he is passionate and caring about <strong>the</strong> island and<br />

eager to share his local knowledge with a smile.<br />

We drive slowly down winding lanes <strong>of</strong> Cockburn<br />

Harbour and he points out historic buildings, <strong>of</strong>ten adding<br />

a humorous tale. We stop at <strong>the</strong> Boiling Hole in <strong>the</strong><br />

middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> salt ponds and he explains how it filled<br />

<strong>the</strong> ponds with ocean water that was evaporated to form<br />

salt—later raked, bagged, and shipped around <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> incoming tide, <strong>the</strong> current is strong enough to<br />

give <strong>the</strong> effect that <strong>the</strong> churning water is “boiling.” The<br />

salt ponds now lay abandoned, but you can feel history<br />

seep into this serene spot.<br />

We continue our tour, Jeremiah occasionally honking<br />

at friends and neighbors as we pass—all in this friendly<br />

From top: The accommodations at East Bay Resort compare to Grace<br />

Bay standards. What a view!<br />

The historic Boiling Hole filled <strong>the</strong> salt ponds with ocean water that<br />

was evaporated to form salt.<br />

Alvaro shakes up a world-class margarita at <strong>the</strong> resort’s Admiral<br />

Cockburn Lounge.<br />

76 www.timespub.tc


community return with a wave and smile. Along <strong>the</strong> way<br />

we make stops as he spots wild plants and reveals fascinating<br />

lore <strong>of</strong> how different plants are used to cure<br />

aliments from chicken pox to bug bites and stomach<br />

pains to impotency!<br />

We climb <strong>the</strong> ridge where Sailrock is developing<br />

homes and catch our breath with surprise. On one side<br />

is <strong>the</strong> shallow, translucent water <strong>of</strong> Bell Sound; <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r,<br />

<strong>the</strong> clear waters, coral reefs, and stunning blues <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

deep-water Columbus Passage. It was amongst <strong>the</strong>se<br />

reefs that Jeremiah grew up fishing, and says he could<br />

find any given coral head even at night. The East Bay<br />

Resort has brought some much needed employment to<br />

South Caicos, and Jeremiah is a busy man but still finds<br />

time for <strong>the</strong> water.<br />

Back at <strong>the</strong> resort, we head to <strong>the</strong> Admiral Cockburn<br />

Lounge where Alvaro <strong>the</strong> barman greets us warmly and<br />

<strong>the</strong>n proceeds to shake us a world-class margarita! We<br />

are enjoying our drinks when Alvaro takes a call on his<br />

cell . . . and bizarrely it’s for us! Thankfully, this was<br />

no family emergency but simply staff member Stephanie,<br />

who was walking home and wanted us to take notice <strong>of</strong><br />

a particularly beautiful sunset. How’s that for customer<br />

service?<br />

East Bay Resort’s restaurant Blu <strong>of</strong>fers a variety <strong>of</strong><br />

local and international dishes. We start with huge and<br />

succulent shrimp, followed by a seafood medley and<br />

fine steak. Accompanied by wine from an extensive list<br />

From top: This glorious sunset is reflected in South Caico’s vast salt<br />

ponds.<br />

The 18th century District Commissioner’s residence would make an<br />

ideal South Caicos museum.<br />

we have to keep reminding ourselves that we are on an<br />

outer island and not Provo! After-dinner entertainment<br />

is a quiet walk on <strong>the</strong> beach, <strong>the</strong> twinkling, silent stars<br />

above complementing an utter quietness and tranquility.<br />

Sleep follows on a bed that feels like it’s made <strong>of</strong> clouds.<br />

We awake to a glorious sunrise over <strong>the</strong> bay. Today<br />

we plan to explore <strong>the</strong> town on our own but need a hearty<br />

breakfast first. Denise greets us in <strong>the</strong> Periwinkle café<br />

with a friendly smile and we are soon tucking into hot<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee and poached eggs. Ignoring <strong>the</strong> overwhelming<br />

desire to lounge by <strong>the</strong> infinity pool, we collect <strong>the</strong> complimentary<br />

bicycles.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 77


INNOVATION | CONSERVATION | ADVENTURE<br />

Cockburn Harbour sits a stone’s throw from <strong>the</strong><br />

resort and <strong>the</strong> bike ride is easy. Our first stop is <strong>the</strong> 18th<br />

century District Commissioner’s Residence that sits atop<br />

a hill and has commanding views over <strong>the</strong> water to Dove<br />

Cay. Once a bed and breakfast, <strong>the</strong> still grand-looking<br />

house now lies derelict and abandoned, although its separate,<br />

Bermuda-style kitchen is intact. In one <strong>of</strong> its rooms,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Queen <strong>of</strong> England once rested and changed clo<strong>the</strong>s<br />

during her visit in 1966. We make our way to <strong>the</strong> rear balcony<br />

and gaze past <strong>the</strong> old white stone lighthouse across<br />

<strong>the</strong> channel to Dove and Long Cays. What a great South<br />

Caicos museum this building would make!<br />

We cycle along deserted streets, passing churches<br />

and ancient buildings, and head down to <strong>the</strong> marina.<br />

Here fishermen sell conch, lobster, and scalefish to <strong>the</strong><br />

processing plant, where it makes its way not only to <strong>the</strong><br />

finest restaurants in <strong>the</strong> TCI, but also <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

East Bay Resort caters for every level <strong>of</strong> activity. A cool<br />

drink at <strong>the</strong> swim-up pool bar? No problem! A leisurely<br />

walk along a mile <strong>of</strong> golden sand? Check! We decide to<br />

be more energetic and take our pick <strong>of</strong> stand-up paddleboards<br />

and ocean kayaks and are soon paddling our way<br />

across <strong>the</strong> sheltered cove. We spot rays in <strong>the</strong> water and<br />

swim in <strong>the</strong> shallows before heading back.<br />

This evening we decide to have sunset drinks on our<br />

balcony and enjoy <strong>the</strong> ever-changing colors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water<br />

and sky. Soon we are seeing <strong>the</strong> occasional shooting star<br />

and realize it’s too late for dinner. No problem, as <strong>the</strong><br />

front desk arranges a pizza delivery from <strong>the</strong> bar in town.<br />

The next morning starts with <strong>the</strong> now familiar struggle<br />

to leave <strong>the</strong> comfortable bed. We keep breakfast light<br />

as we are booked on a snorkel trip on <strong>the</strong> hotel boat.<br />

South Caicos Islander Captain Marvin greets us with a<br />

huge smile and chats about fishing as we make <strong>the</strong> short<br />

boat ride around <strong>the</strong> headland and tie up to a mooring<br />

just <strong>of</strong>f Long Cay. With mask and flippers on, we enter<br />

<strong>the</strong> crystal clear water for some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best snorkeling in<br />

<strong>the</strong> TCI. The lack <strong>of</strong> human intervention here means <strong>the</strong><br />

marine environment is pristine. There can be few places<br />

left on Earth that have escaped <strong>the</strong> impact <strong>of</strong> tourism.<br />

STAND UP PADDLEBOARDING | KAYAKING | KITEBOARDING<br />

SNORKELING | SCUBA DIVING | PRIVATE CHARTERS | BIKING<br />

649 | 946 | 5034<br />

PRESENTS<br />

FEATURING<br />

<br />

649 | 231 | 6455<br />

<br />

18<br />

YEARS<br />

©BLUELINES/p.shearer ALL RIGHTS RESERVED<br />

This is one, and we gaze in wonder at <strong>the</strong> health <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

coral and <strong>the</strong> abundance <strong>of</strong> sea life.<br />

Back on board, we head over to a shallow cove on<br />

Long Cay and wade ashore. Long Cay is some three miles<br />

long and although Marvin tells us it’s home to large rock<br />

iguanas, we see only <strong>the</strong> nests <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se elusive creatures.<br />

We walk up to <strong>the</strong> ridge and stare across rugged cliffs<br />

onto <strong>the</strong> ocean some 6,000 feet deep. The contrast with<br />

<strong>the</strong> shallow water <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> turquoise cove is staggering.<br />

78 www.timespub.tc


On <strong>the</strong> way back, Marvin asks if we have ever seen<br />

huge orange starfish. As I answer that occasionally we<br />

spot <strong>the</strong>m, I look down and realize we are floating above<br />

hundreds—a field <strong>of</strong> starfish. Nature at its best, indeed.<br />

Back at <strong>the</strong> resort, I meet up with General Manager<br />

Darik Riggs and Divemaster Ralf Klug and we head over<br />

to what will soon be <strong>the</strong> on-site dive shop. It has just been<br />

built and is awaiting a few final touches before opening.<br />

Offering brand-new Scuba Pro equipment, this will be a<br />

fine dive operation. Ralf has identified a number <strong>of</strong> dive<br />

sites that will suit all levels <strong>of</strong> experience. The diving<br />

promises to be sublime—<strong>the</strong> last undiscovered diving<br />

gem in <strong>the</strong> TCI.<br />

Ralf explains that East Bay Resort will <strong>of</strong>fer all-inclusive<br />

room and dive packages, with concessions for<br />

residents. A special deal with Caicos Ferry will even allow<br />

guests to dive on <strong>the</strong>ir last day without <strong>the</strong> worry <strong>of</strong> flying.<br />

Ralf explains that, as in Grand Turk and Salt Cay, dive<br />

sites are only a few minutes <strong>of</strong>fshore, allowing for an easy<br />

boat ride and surface time on land. I envision future dives<br />

on never-dived-before sites and surface time in a luxury<br />

resort for lunch—plans to return before we’ve even left!<br />

Speaking <strong>of</strong> leaving, it’s time to pack and take one<br />

more look around our lovely room. Stephanie, Audra, and<br />

Darik bid us farewell and Jeremiah is waiting by <strong>the</strong> SUV<br />

to whisk us back <strong>the</strong> airport. Duties on Provo beckon,<br />

but it’s South Caicos that’s now well and truly lodged in<br />

our hearts. So, although East Bay Resort is a secret, it’s a<br />

secret worth sharing! a<br />

South Caicos versus Grace Bay<br />

Before my trip to South Caicos, I asked both expatriate<br />

friends and visitors to tell me <strong>the</strong>ir favorite things<br />

about each island. Here’s what <strong>the</strong>y said:<br />

PROVIDENCIALES — Upscale luxury hotels. Eco-tours,<br />

snorkeling. Great beach. Explore uninhabited cays.<br />

NORTH CAICOS — Remoteness. Friendly people.<br />

Quiet. Hiking.<br />

MIDDLE CAICOS — Rugged dramatic coastlines.<br />

Tranquility. Deserted beaches.<br />

SALT CAY — History. Wall diving close to shore.<br />

Unspoilt. Donkeys. Walking.<br />

GRAND TURK — Historic town. Wall diving close to<br />

shore. Biking.<br />

Obviously, many islands have many great features but<br />

South Caicos and East Bay Resort really do have all <strong>the</strong><br />

best features from all <strong>the</strong> islands in one place!<br />

John Galleymore<br />

East Bay Resort includes 86 suites, all with ocean views.<br />

For more information visit eastbayresort.com.<br />

East Bay Resort’s gracious staff includes (from left): Audra Simmons,<br />

Darik Riggs, and Stephanie Ulfer.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 79


about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, <strong>the</strong><br />

Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Visit www.waveylinepublishing.com.<br />

Where we are<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> lie some 575 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />

<strong>of</strong> Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —<br />

with <strong>the</strong> Bahamas about 30 miles to <strong>the</strong> northwest and<br />

<strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic some 100 miles to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast.<br />

The country consists <strong>of</strong> two island groups separated<br />

by <strong>the</strong> 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To <strong>the</strong> west are<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>: West Caicos, Providenciales, North<br />

Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To<br />

<strong>the</strong> east are <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.<br />

The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles <strong>of</strong> land<br />

area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s<br />

population is approximately 32,000.<br />

Getting here<br />

There are international airports on Grand Turk, North<br />

Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic<br />

airports on all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands except East Caicos.<br />

At this time, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major international carriers<br />

arrive and depart from Providenciales International<br />

Airport. American Airlines flies twice daily from Miami,<br />

daily from Charlotte, from Boston, Dallas, and Philadelphia<br />

on Saturday and from Philadelphia on Sunday. JetBlue<br />

Airways <strong>of</strong>fers daily service from New York/JFK and<br />

Fort Lauderdale, and from Boston on Saturday. Delta<br />

Airlines flies from Atlanta daily and from New York/<br />

JFK on Saturday. United Airlines travels from Newark on<br />

Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday.<br />

West Jet travels from Toronto daily on Wednesday<br />

and Saturday. Air Canada <strong>of</strong>fer flights from Toronto on<br />

80 www.timespub.tc


Wednesday and Saturday and from Montreal on Tuesday.<br />

British Airways travels on Thursday and Sunday from<br />

London/Gatwick via Antigua.<br />

Bahamasair flies to Nassau on Thursday and Sunday;<br />

Inter-caribbean Airways travels on Monday, Wednesday,<br />

and Friday. Inter-caribbean Airways and Caicos Express<br />

travel to Haiti daily, while Inter-caribbean Airways flies<br />

to <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic daily (except Wednesday);<br />

to Jamaica on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday,<br />

and to Puerto Rico on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday.<br />

(Schedules are current as <strong>of</strong> May <strong>2016</strong> and subject to<br />

change.)<br />

Inter-island service is provided by Inter-caribbean<br />

Airways, Caicos Express Airways, and Global Airways. Sea<br />

and air freight services operate from Florida.<br />

Language<br />

English.<br />

Time zone<br />

Atlantic Standard Time (AST) observed year-round.<br />

Currency<br />

The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks<br />

& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.<br />

dollars are widely accepted and o<strong>the</strong>r currency can be<br />

changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and<br />

MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.<br />

Climate<br />

The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The<br />

hottest months are September and October, when <strong>the</strong><br />

temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,<br />

<strong>the</strong> consistent easterly trade winds temper <strong>the</strong> heat and<br />

keep life comfortable.<br />

Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for<br />

daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on<br />

some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing<br />

and a sunhat and use waterpro<strong>of</strong> sunscreen when out<br />

in <strong>the</strong> tropical sun.<br />

Entry requirements<br />

Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.<br />

Customs formalities<br />

Visitors may bring in duty free for <strong>the</strong>ir own use one carton<br />

<strong>of</strong> cigarettes or cigars, one bottle <strong>of</strong> liquor or wine,<br />

and some perfume. The importation <strong>of</strong> all firearms including<br />

those charged with compressed air without prior<br />

Island Auto Rentals & Sales is<br />

committed to adding value to your<br />

tropical vacation experience<br />

by delivering excellent service<br />

along with secure and reliable<br />

transportation that will take you<br />

where you need to go.<br />

EXCELLENT SERVICE • GREAT VALUE<br />

SECURE • RELIABLE TRANSPORTATION<br />

Leeward Palms, Leeward, Providenciales<br />

Telephone: (649) 246-0395 or 232-0933 or 946-2042<br />

Email: nevilleadams@hotmail.com or<br />

philipgibson251@hotmail.com<br />

Web: islandautorentals.tc<br />

For Vehicle Rental in<br />

Grand Turk call<br />

232 0933 or 946 2042<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 81


about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

approval in writing from <strong>the</strong> Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police is<br />

strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled<br />

drugs, and pornography are also illegal.<br />

Returning residents may bring in $400 worth <strong>of</strong><br />

merchandise per person duty free. A duty <strong>of</strong> 10% to<br />

60% is charged on most imported goods along with a<br />

7% customs processing fee and forms a major source <strong>of</strong><br />

government revenue.<br />

Transportation<br />

A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting<br />

vehicles. A government tax <strong>of</strong> 12% is levied on all<br />

rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on <strong>the</strong><br />

left-hand side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with traffic flow controlled by<br />

round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and<br />

drive! Taxis are abundant throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and<br />

many resorts <strong>of</strong>fer shuttle service between popular visitor<br />

areas. Scooter, ATV, and bicycle rentals are also available.<br />

Telecommunications<br />

FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband<br />

Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,<br />

including pre and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts<br />

and some stores and restaurants <strong>of</strong>fer wireless Internet<br />

connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with<br />

a full suite <strong>of</strong> LTE 4G service. FLOW is <strong>the</strong> local carrier<br />

for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and<br />

Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets<br />

and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can<br />

arrange international roaming.<br />

Electricity<br />

120/240 volts, 60 Hz, suitable for all U.S. appliances.<br />

Departure tax<br />

US $20 for all persons two years and older, payable in<br />

cash or traveller’s cheques. It is typically built into <strong>the</strong><br />

cost <strong>of</strong> your ticket.<br />

Courier service<br />

Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with <strong>of</strong>fices on<br />

Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is<br />

limited to incoming delivery.<br />

Postal service<br />

The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is<br />

located downtown in Butterfield Square. In Grand Turk,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Post Office is on Front Street, with <strong>the</strong> Philatelic<br />

Bureau on Church Folly. The <strong>Islands</strong> are known for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

varied and colorful stamp issues.<br />

Media<br />

Multi-channel satellite television is received from <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />

and Canada and transmitted via cable or over <strong>the</strong> air.<br />

Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island<br />

EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television <strong>of</strong>fers 75 digitally<br />

transmitted television stations, along with local news<br />

and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number <strong>of</strong><br />

local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.<br />

Medical services<br />

There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are<br />

large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.<br />

Both hospitals <strong>of</strong>fer a full range <strong>of</strong> services including:<br />

24/7 emergency room, operating <strong>the</strong>aters, diagnostic<br />

imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,<br />

physio<strong>the</strong>rapy, and dentistry.<br />

In addition, several general practitioners operate in<br />

<strong>the</strong> country, and <strong>the</strong>re is a recompression chamber, along<br />

with a number <strong>of</strong> private pharmacies.<br />

Immigration<br />

A resident’s permit is required to live in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. A<br />

work permit and business license are also required to<br />

work and/or establish a business. These are generally<br />

granted to those <strong>of</strong>fering skills, experience, and qualifications<br />

not widely available on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Priority is given<br />

to enterprises that will provide employment and training<br />

for T&C Islanders.<br />

Government/Legal system<br />

TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed<br />

Governor, HE Peter Beckingham. He presides over an executive<br />

council formed by <strong>the</strong> elected local government.<br />

PNP Leader Dr. Rufus Ewing is <strong>the</strong> country’s premier.<br />

The legal system is based upon English Common<br />

Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief<br />

Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court<br />

<strong>of</strong> Appeal visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> twice a year and <strong>the</strong>re is a final<br />

Right <strong>of</strong> Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.<br />

Taxes<br />

There are currently no direct taxes on ei<strong>the</strong>r income<br />

or capital for individuals or companies. There are no<br />

exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs<br />

duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,<br />

82 www.timespub.tc


estaurants, vehicle rentals, o<strong>the</strong>r services and gasoline,<br />

as well as business license fees and departure taxes.<br />

Economy<br />

Historically, TCI’s economy relied on <strong>the</strong> export <strong>of</strong><br />

salt. Currently, tourism, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore finance industry,<br />

and fishing generate <strong>the</strong> most private sector income.<br />

The <strong>Islands</strong>’ main exports are lobster and conch, with<br />

<strong>the</strong> world’s first commercial conch farm operating on<br />

Providenciales. Practically all consumer goods and foodstuffs<br />

are imported.<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are recognised as an<br />

important <strong>of</strong>fshore financial centre, <strong>of</strong>fering services<br />

such as company formation, <strong>of</strong>fshore insurance, banking,<br />

trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.<br />

The Financial Services Commission regulates <strong>the</strong> industry<br />

and spearheads <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore legislation.<br />

People<br />

Citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are termed<br />

“Belongers” and are primarily descendants <strong>of</strong> African<br />

slaves who were brought to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to work on <strong>the</strong><br />

salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large<br />

expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,<br />

Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,<br />

Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.<br />

Churches<br />

Churches are <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> community life and <strong>the</strong>re<br />

are many faiths represented in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, including:<br />

Adventist, Anglican, Assembly <strong>of</strong> God, Baha’i,<br />

Baptist, Catholic, Church <strong>of</strong> God <strong>of</strong> Prophecy, Episcopal,<br />

Faith Tabernacle Church <strong>of</strong> God, Jehovah’s Witnesses,<br />

Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.<br />

Pets<br />

Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary<br />

health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test<br />

results to be submitted at <strong>the</strong> port <strong>of</strong> entry to obtain<br />

clearance from <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Animal<br />

Health Services.<br />

National symbols<br />

The National Bird is <strong>the</strong> Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).<br />

The National Plant is Island hea<strong>the</strong>r (Limonium<br />

bahamense) found nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />

National Tree is <strong>the</strong> Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.<br />

bahamensis). The National Costume consists <strong>of</strong> white cotton<br />

dresses tied at <strong>the</strong> waist for women and simple shirts<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 83


and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing<br />

<strong>the</strong> various islands are displayed on <strong>the</strong> sleeves<br />

and bases. The National Song is “This Land <strong>of</strong> Ours,” by<br />

<strong>the</strong> late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)<br />

with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.<br />

Going green<br />

TCI Waste Disposal Services currently <strong>of</strong>fers recycling services<br />

through weekly collection <strong>of</strong> recyclable aluminum,<br />

glass, and plastic. The TCI Environmental Club is spearheading<br />

a campaign to eliminate single-use plastic bags.<br />

Do your part by using a cloth bag whenever possible.<br />

Keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature” by not littering!<br />

Recreation<br />

Sporting activities are centered around <strong>the</strong> water. Visitors<br />

can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,<br />

glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,<br />

waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling,<br />

scuba diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding,<br />

and beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life,<br />

and excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving<br />

destination. Tennis and golf—<strong>the</strong>re is an eighteen hole<br />

championship course on Providenciales—are also popular.<br />

The <strong>Islands</strong> are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can<br />

enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in<br />

thirty-three national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries,<br />

and areas <strong>of</strong> historical interest. The National Trust<br />

provides trail guides to several hiking trails, as well as<br />

guided tours <strong>of</strong> major historical sites. There is an excellent<br />

national museum on Grand Turk, with an auxillary<br />

branch on Providenciales. A scheduled ferry and a selection<br />

<strong>of</strong> tour operators make it easy to take day trips to <strong>the</strong><br />

outer islands.<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r land-based activities include bicycling, horseback<br />

riding, and football (soccer). Personal trainers are<br />

available to motivate you, working out <strong>of</strong> several fitness<br />

centres. You will also find a variety <strong>of</strong> spa and body treatment<br />

services.<br />

Nightlife includes local bands playing island music<br />

at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There are<br />

two casinos on Providenciales, along with many electronic<br />

gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!<br />

Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,<br />

sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,<br />

including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets<br />

sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, lea<strong>the</strong>r goods,<br />

crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing<br />

and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a<br />

84 www.timespub.tc


where to stay<br />

Grand Turk<br />

range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />

US$ (subject to change)<br />

number <strong>of</strong> units<br />

major credit cards<br />

restaurant<br />

bar<br />

air conditioning<br />

phone in unit<br />

television in unit<br />

kitchen in unit<br />

laundry service<br />

pool<br />

on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />

H<br />

The Arches <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • •<br />

Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 946 2135 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 16 • • • • • • • •<br />

Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 1698 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • •<br />

Grand Turk Inn – Tel 649 946 2827 • Web www.grandturkinn.com 250–300 5 • • • • • • •<br />

Island House – Tel 649 946 1519/232 5514 • Web www.islandhouse.tc 110–185 8 • • • • • • •<br />

Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • •<br />

Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • •<br />

Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • •<br />

White Sands Beach Resort – Tel 649 242 1991 • Web whitesandstci.com 130–150 16 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Middle Caicos<br />

H<br />

Blue Horizon Resort – Tel 649 946 6141 • Web bhresort.com 265–400 7 • • • • • • • • •<br />

North Caicos<br />

H<br />

Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • •<br />

Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • •<br />

Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • •<br />

Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • •<br />

JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • •<br />

Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • •<br />

Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112/877 774 5486 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–165 14 • • • • • • • •<br />

Pine Cay<br />

H<br />

The Meridian Club Turks & Caicos - Tel 649 946 7758/866 746 3229 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • •<br />

Parrot Cay<br />

H<br />

Parrot Cay COMO Resort & Spa - Tel 877 754 0726/649 946 7788 • Web www.parrotcay.como.bz 450–4370 65 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Providenciales<br />

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H<br />

Airport Inn - Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 18 • • • • • • •<br />

The Alexandra Resort & Spa - Tel 800 704 9424/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Atrium Resort - Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>atriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • •<br />

Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.amanresorts.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • •<br />

Aquamarine Beach Houses - Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • •<br />

Beaches Resort & Spa - Tel 800-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 453 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Blue Haven Resort & Marina - Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Caribbean Paradise Inn - Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.paradise.tc 162–225 17 • • • • • • • •<br />

Club Med Turkoise - Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Coral Gardens on Grace Bay - Tel 877 746 7800 • Web www.coralgardensongracebay.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Gansevoort Turks + Caicos – Tel 877 774 3253/649 941 7555 • Web www.gansevoorttc.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5757 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 59 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • •<br />

Harbour Club Villas - Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • •<br />

Kokomo Botanical Gardens - Tel 649 941 3121• Web www.kokomobotanicalresort.com 169–299 16 • • • • •<br />

Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.levele.tc 303–630 22 • • • • • • • •<br />

La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 9618 • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • •<br />

Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5461 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com 180–690 191 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666 • Web <strong>the</strong>palmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • •<br />

Point Grace - Tel 888 682 3705/649 946 5096 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Ports <strong>of</strong> Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.ports<strong>of</strong>callresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • •<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 85


H<br />

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H<br />

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H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

where to stay<br />

range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />

US$ (subject to change)<br />

number <strong>of</strong> units<br />

major credit cards<br />

restaurant<br />

bar<br />

air conditioning<br />

phone in unit<br />

television in unit<br />

kitchen in unit<br />

laundry service<br />

pool<br />

on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />

Providenciales (continued)<br />

Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Reef Residence at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • •<br />

The Regent Grand – Tel 877 537 3314/649 941 7770 • Web www.TheRegentGrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com 180–695 92 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>sandsresort.com 175–675 116 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Seven Stars Resort – Tel 866 570 7777/649 941 7777 – Web www.SevenStarsResort.com 365–2400 165 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Sibonné – Tel 800 528 1905/649 946 5547 • Web www.Sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • •<br />

The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 339 5900/877 887 5722 • Web www.TheSomerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Turtle Cove Inn – Tel 800 887 0477/649 946 4203 • Web www.turtlecoveinn.com 85–180 30 • • • • • • • •<br />

The Tuscany – Tel 649 941 4667 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>tuscanygracebay.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • •<br />

The Venetian Grace Bay – Tel 877 277 4793 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>venetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • •<br />

Villa del Mar – Tel 877 238 4058/649 941 5160 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • •<br />

Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitc.com See Web/AE 6 • • • • • • •<br />

Villa Renaissance - Tel 649 941 5300/877 285 8764 • Web www.villarenaissance.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255 • Web www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • •<br />

West Bay Club – Tel 866 607 4156/649 946 8550 • Web www.TheWestBayClub.com 235–1163 46 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Windsong – Tel 649 941 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Yacht Club – Tel 649 946 4656 • Web www.yachtclubtci.com 250–350 52 • • • • • • •<br />

Salt Cay<br />

Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • •<br />

Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • •<br />

Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc 165–175 4 • • • • • • •<br />

Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • •<br />

Trade Winds Lodge – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • •<br />

Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • •<br />

The Villas <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villas<strong>of</strong>saltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • •<br />

South Caicos<br />

East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com 198–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219<br />

Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • •<br />

H<br />

G<br />

Hotel & Tourism Association Member<br />

Green Globe Certified • Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge<br />

Contemporary Style with Bermudian Influences<br />

This centrally located 4 bedroom/3.5 bathroom executive family home and an additional 1 bedroom/1 bathroom nanny suite is<br />

4,545 square feet <strong>of</strong> open plan Caribbean living with exceptional breezes from its spectacular 75 feet <strong>of</strong> elevation. Located on .85<br />

acres and surrounded by natural trees and vegetation, views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Island and Ocean beyond can be enjoyed from every room.<br />

Dee Agingu, Sales Executive<br />

t. 649.946.4474 c. 649.231.3534<br />

dee@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />

Offered at $799,000 turksandcaicosSIR.com MLS# 1300629<br />

Anna Richardson, Sales Associate<br />

t. 649.946.4474 c. 649.232.7751<br />

anna@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com<br />

86 www.timespub.tc


dining out – providenciales<br />

Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet<br />

cuisine for lunch and dinner with menu changing daily.<br />

Anacaona — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Elegant beachfront<br />

dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet Euro/Caribbean<br />

cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge. Reservations required.<br />

Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA.<br />

Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out,<br />

catering. Open daily 6:30 AM to 6 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM.<br />

Asú on <strong>the</strong> Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 941-8888. Casual<br />

Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for breakfast,<br />

lunch and dinner. Service indoors, poolside, and at beach.<br />

Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044.<br />

Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open<br />

for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from<br />

6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Carry-out available.<br />

Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront<br />

dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily<br />

7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events.<br />

Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000.<br />

All-inclusive resort. A variety <strong>of</strong> restaurants and bars on premises.<br />

Non-guests can purchase a pass.<br />

Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:<br />

946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Full bar and wine cellar. Indoor or<br />

covered terrace seating above a tropical garden. Open daily for<br />

dinner from 6 PM. Closed Sunday. Private catering available.<br />

Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide<br />

selection <strong>of</strong> burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like<br />

setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. The<br />

freshest seafood in Provo, conch prepared to order, rum, buckets<br />

<strong>of</strong> beer, live local bands. Open daily from Noon to 10 PM.<br />

Cabana Bar & Grille — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880 x 1104.<br />

Casual island fare, pizza, burgers. Open daily from 7 AM to<br />

9 PM. Tropical cocktails with a spectacular view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />

Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic French boulangerie.<br />

Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche,<br />

pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday.<br />

Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278.<br />

Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining<br />

on <strong>the</strong> deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday.<br />

Carambola Grill & Lounge — Airport Inn Plaza. Tel: 946-<br />

8122. Generous portions <strong>of</strong> local and international fare at<br />

moderate prices in a casual atmosphere. Catering available.<br />

The Caravel Restaurant — Grace Bay Court. Tel: 941-5330.<br />

Cozy restaurant <strong>of</strong>fering island food with flair; something for<br />

everyone. Daily happy hour. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM; Sunday<br />

5 to 9 PM.<br />

Chicken Chicken — <strong>Times</strong> Square, downtown Provo. Fast food,<br />

fried chicken, native fare.<br />

Chinson Jade Garden Pastries & Deli — Leeward Highway.<br />

Tel: 941-3533. Caribbean pastries, fresh bakery and Jamaican<br />

and Chinese cuisine. Lunch buffet/take-out. Open Monday to<br />

Saturday, 7 AM to 8 PM; Sunday, 2 PM to 8 PM.<br />

Chopsticks — Neptune Court. Tel: 333-4040. Fusion <strong>of</strong> Asian<br />

cuisines–light, healthy and delicious in a beautiful setting. Takeaway,<br />

delivery, on-site dining. Open daily Noon to 3 PM and<br />

5:30 to 10:30 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive<br />

resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in <strong>the</strong> evenings.<br />

Non-guests can purchase a daily pass.<br />

Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental<br />

Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy <strong>of</strong> palms.<br />

Serving dinner nightly from 6 PM. Closed Monday.<br />

Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5186.<br />

Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical<br />

garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10<br />

PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended. Catering, special<br />

events, private chef visits.<br />

Crackpot Kitchen — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 245-0005. Experience<br />

<strong>the</strong> Island feel, culture and <strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> au<strong>the</strong>ntic Turks & Caicos<br />

and Caribbean cuisines. Open for dinner 5 to 10 PM daily except<br />

Thursday; Happy Hour 5 to 7 PM.<br />

Crust Bakery & Café — Graceway IGA. Tel: 941-8724.<br />

Breakfast sandwiches, specialty c<strong>of</strong>fees, soups, salads, gourmet<br />

sandwiches and desserts. Open Monday to Saturday, 7 AM to<br />

8:30 PM. Covered patio dining or take-out. Catering available.<br />

Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877.<br />

Island-fresh seafood from <strong>the</strong> ocean to your plate. Covered<br />

beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.<br />

Danny Buoy’s Irish Pub — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921.<br />

Traditional Irish cuisine, standard American pub fare; imported<br />

draught beers. Open for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.<br />

Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs for sporting events.<br />

The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining<br />

and cocktails by <strong>the</strong> water’s edge. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM.<br />

Live music Friday nights.<br />

Dune — Windsong Resort. Tel: 333-7700. Private beachfront<br />

dining with limited availability. Fresh fare prepared to perfection.<br />

Open daily.<br />

Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833.<br />

Dine overlooking <strong>the</strong> “greens.” Open to all for lunch Monday<br />

to Thursday and breakfast from 9 AM on Sunday. Friday Pub<br />

Nights, Saturday BBQ.<br />

Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />

Drinks at <strong>the</strong> Ice Bar, dessert by <strong>the</strong> fire pits in <strong>the</strong> Fire Lounge.<br />

South American-meets-Caribbean flavors and spices. Open daily.<br />

Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745.<br />

Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and<br />

cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday.<br />

Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3167. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic native<br />

cuisine, from seafood to soup. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet on<br />

Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

Indian cuisine, including tandoori charcoal-oven specialties.<br />

Open daily Noon to 3 PM, 5:30 PM to Midnight. Closed Tuesday.<br />

Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call &<br />

Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes,<br />

smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix<br />

candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Gilley’s Cafe — At <strong>the</strong> airport. Tel: 946-4472. Burgers, sandwiches,<br />

local food. Full bar. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM.<br />

Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096.<br />

Elegant, gourmet Caribbean cuisine showcasing regional foods.<br />

Extensive wine list. Gazebo seating under <strong>the</strong> stars or indoor<br />

dining in a romantic gingerbread cottage. Serving dinner from 6<br />

PM nightly. Reservations required. Weddings and receptions.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 87


Greenbean — Harbour Town at Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-2233.<br />

Internet café, Starbucks® c<strong>of</strong>fee, salads, wraps, pizza, sandwiches,<br />

fresh bakery. Open daily 6 AM to 4 PM.<br />

The Grill Rouge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Casual<br />

oceanfront poolside bistro, serving international bistro fare.<br />

Cool cocktails at <strong>the</strong> swim-up bar. Open 7 AM to 9:30 PM daily.<br />

Havana Club — Windsong Resort. Tel: 941-7700. Fine wine,<br />

specialty c<strong>of</strong>fees, decadent desserts, with comedy/magic shows<br />

on Thursday, Friday and Saturday and music and sports nights.<br />

Healthy Treats Restaurant & Deli — Touch <strong>of</strong> Class Plaza,<br />

Airport Road. Tel: 241-3318. Native Caribbean dishes, fresh<br />

juices, smoothies. Call to order.<br />

Hemingways on <strong>the</strong> Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel:<br />

941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish,<br />

pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by <strong>the</strong> pool.<br />

Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />

Hole in <strong>the</strong> Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old<br />

Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican/Island cuisine<br />

where <strong>the</strong> locals go for jerk chicken. Full bar. Indoor A/C dining<br />

or outdoors on <strong>the</strong> deck. Open 7 days from 8 AM. Cash only.<br />

Island Conch Bar & Grill — Bight Cultural Market. Tel: 946-<br />

8389. Caribbean and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM.<br />

Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051.<br />

21 flavors <strong>of</strong> ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards<br />

and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet<br />

café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily.<br />

Jimmy’s Dive Bar — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 946-5282. The place for<br />

steaks, BBQ, booze and breakfast. Open daily, 7 AM to 11 PM,<br />

(Thursday to Saturday to Midnight); open Sunday at 8 AM.<br />

Kalooki’s Beach Restaurant & Bar — Blue Hills. Tel:<br />

332-3388. Caribbean-infused dishes in an oasis-like setting<br />

overlooking <strong>the</strong> sea. Open Monday to Saturday, 11 AM to 10 PM;<br />

Sunday 11 AM to 7 PM. Live music every Friday!<br />

KItchen 218 — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800.<br />

Caribbean cuisine with hints <strong>of</strong> French and Asian fusion and <strong>the</strong><br />

chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />

The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from<br />

Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner<br />

under <strong>the</strong> stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily 5:30 PM to . . .<br />

Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306.<br />

Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar.<br />

Terrace, gazebo and inside dining overlooking Chalk Sound.<br />

Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM, Tuesday 8 AM to 3 PM.<br />

Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A<br />

taste <strong>of</strong> Paris in TCI. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines,<br />

tapas, nightly dinner specials. Open daily 7 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Closed Sunday.<br />

Le Comptoir Francais — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234.<br />

French deli, bakery, wine shop. Open daily.<br />

Lemon 2 Go C<strong>of</strong>fee — Ventura House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:<br />

941-4487. Gourmet c<strong>of</strong>feehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies,<br />

croissants, yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to<br />

7 PM, Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM.<br />

The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip<br />

lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails,<br />

world music and <strong>the</strong> finest sunset location in Providenciales.<br />

Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian “comfort<br />

food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out ready-made<br />

gourmet meals. Open daily for lunch and dinner.<br />

Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel:<br />

941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore<br />

views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. Wine<br />

bar opens at 4 PM.<br />

Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Old favorites in a<br />

new location. Fresh local flavors and seafood, homemade desserts.<br />

Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Set price dinner on weekdays.<br />

Children’s menu. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina.<br />

Market Café — Blue Haven Resort. Tel: 946-9900. Gourmet<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, frozen drinks; fresh breads and pastries; grab ‘n’<br />

go salads and sandwiches, fresh smoothies. Open daily.<br />

Melt Ice Cream Parlour — Regent Village. Tel: 432-1234.<br />

Carefully crafted selection <strong>of</strong> sumptous and inspired sundaes,<br />

with c<strong>of</strong>fee, champagne and cocktails for <strong>the</strong> grown-ups! Open<br />

Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Mis Amigos Cocina Mexicana — Central Square. Tel: 946-<br />

4229. A variety <strong>of</strong> traditional Mexican fare, including salads and<br />

<strong>the</strong> best margaritas in town. Open daily.<br />

Mo<strong>the</strong>r’s Pizza — Downtown <strong>Times</strong> Square. Tel: 941-4142.<br />

Best pizza in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, available by <strong>the</strong> slice or <strong>the</strong><br />

island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on<br />

Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday.<br />

Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Airport Road. Tel: 242-6780.<br />

Serving fresh local seafood straight from <strong>the</strong> sea. Open daily 10<br />

AM to 11 PM.<br />

Noodle Bar + Kitchen — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550.<br />

Delicious rice and noodle dishes and hearty staples with<br />

uniquely Caribbean flavors and spices. Open for lunch and dinner<br />

daily to 9:30 PM.<br />

Opus — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-5885. Wine • Bar • Grill<br />

International menu with Caribbean flair. Wine tastings. Serving<br />

dinner nightly 6 to 10:30 PM. Closed Monday. Indoor/outdoor<br />

dining. Conference facility, events, catering.<br />

Parallel23 — The Palms. Tel: 946-8666. Pan-tropical cuisine in<br />

a setting <strong>of</strong> casual elegance. Boutique wine list. Al fresco or private<br />

dining room available. Open for breakfast and dinner daily.<br />

The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue<br />

Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican patties and loaves. 18<br />

flavors <strong>of</strong> Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Brad <strong>of</strong>fers a<br />

global palate, interpreted locally. Lobster tank. Seafood raw bar.<br />

Open daily for breakfast and dinner; Sunday Prime Rib special.<br />

Pelican Bay — Royal West Indies Resort. Tel: 941-2365.<br />

Poolside restaurant and bar with French, Caribbean and Asian<br />

fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily from 7:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941-<br />

8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily<br />

11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery.<br />

Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med.<br />

Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays<br />

and Beach BBQ Saturdays.<br />

Sailing Paradise — Blue Hills. Tel: 344-1914. Casual beachfront<br />

restaurant and bar. Caribbean fare. Open daily 7 AM to 11<br />

PM. Sunday brunch and beach party, daily happy hour.<br />

Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />

Casual dining with outdoor seating overlooking <strong>the</strong> marina.<br />

Sandwiches, burgers and salads, classic bar favorites with local<br />

flair. Open daily from 10 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Sapodilla Café — Provo Storage at Cooper Jack Bay Road. Next<br />

to Hardcore Fitness. Tel: 347-2934. Healthy local fare including<br />

88 www.timespub.tc


sandwiches, savory soups, salads, pasta, natural juices, smoothies.<br />

Weekend specials. Open daily for breakfast and lunch.<br />

Seaside Café — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254. Casual fare,<br />

burgers, salads, tropical drinks, served with panoramic views <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> ocean. Open daily from 8 AM to 10 PM. Kid-friendly.<br />

Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contemporary<br />

cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Wednesday to<br />

Saturday, 5:30 to 9:30 PM.<br />

72West — The Palms Resort. Tel: 946-8666. Beachside dining<br />

with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired menu. Serving lunch<br />

daily; dinner seasonally.<br />

Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel:<br />

941-5090. Varied menu. Sports bar/game room with slots. Open<br />

daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.<br />

Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees and teas, sandwiches, salads and soup, pastries, as well<br />

as gelato, sorbetto, smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM<br />

to 7 PM.<br />

Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel:<br />

941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily.<br />

Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 946-5746. Modern<br />

Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6<br />

to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ. Beach bar and grill<br />

open for lunch 11:30 AM to 5 PM daily.<br />

Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for<br />

lunch and dinner daily.<br />

Three Bro<strong>the</strong>rs Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown.<br />

Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet<br />

dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Three Queens Bar & Restaurant — Wheeland. Tel: 243-<br />

5343. Oldest bar on Provo, serving Jamaican and Native dishes.<br />

Serving lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday.<br />

Tiki Hut Island Eatery — New location dockside at Turtle<br />

Cove Inn. Tel: 941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood,<br />

Black Angus beef, pasta, pizzas and fresh fish. Wednesday<br />

crab and lobster specials. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Breakfast<br />

on weekends.<br />

Turkberry Frozen Yogurt — The Regent Village. Tel: 431-<br />

2233. Frozen yogurt in a variety <strong>of</strong> flavors, with a large selection<br />

<strong>of</strong> toppings. Open 11 AM to 11 PM daily.<br />

Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431-<br />

9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros,<br />

kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner.<br />

Via Veneto — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 941-2372. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />

dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Serving lunch from<br />

11:30 AM to 2 PM; snacks with wine and drinks from 5:30 PM<br />

and dinner from 7:30 PM daily. Closed on Tuesday.<br />

The Vix Bar & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144. High-end<br />

cuisine and <strong>the</strong> finest wines in an inviting ambiance. Open daily<br />

for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 7:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Yoshi’s Japanese Restaurant — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374.<br />

Sushi bar menu plus Wagyu beef, Japanese curries. Open daily<br />

Noon to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Zanzi Bar & Tapas Restaurant — Leeward Highway. Tel: 342-<br />

2472. Sophistication meets class at <strong>the</strong> new tapas eatery and<br />

entertainment venue overlooking Grace Bay.<br />

dining out – north caicos<br />

Club Titters — Bottle Creek. Tel: 946-7316. Local dishes for<br />

breakfast, lunch and dinner. Live music weekends.<br />

Higgs’ Café — Sandy Point Marina. Tel: 242-9426 or 341-9084.<br />

Local cuisine served daily from 7 AM.<br />

Last Chance Bar & Grill Club — Bottle Creek. Tel: 232-4141.<br />

Waterfront dining. American and Caribbean dishes. Open 10:30<br />

AM for breakfast and lunch; dinner by reservation.<br />

Pappa Grunt’s Seafood Restaurant — Whitby Plaza. Tel/fax:<br />

946-7301. Native & American cuisine daily.<br />

Pelican Beach Hotel — Tel: 946-7112. Well known for native<br />

conch, lobster, grouper and snapper dishes.<br />

Silver Palm Restaurant — Whitby. Tel: 946-7113/244-4186.<br />

Local seafood and international cuisine. Home-baked breads<br />

and desserts. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Screened patio.<br />

Super D Café — At airport. Tel: 946-7258. Local dishes.<br />

dining out – south caicos<br />

Café Periwinkle and Blu — East Bay Resort. Tel: 946-3611.<br />

Casual or fine dining serving top-class local and international<br />

fare. Lounge and pool bar. Open daily.<br />

Eastern Inn Restaurant — Stamers Street. Tel: 946-3301.<br />

Ocean & Beach Resort — Cockburn Harbour. Tel: 946 3219.<br />

Native cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.<br />

Pond View Restaurant — Tel: 946-3276. Native cuisine.<br />

dining out – middle caicos<br />

Daniel’s Restaurant — Conch Bar. Tel: 245-2298/232-6132.<br />

Local seafood, homemade breads. Open Tuesday to Sunday. Call<br />

ahead for groups and dinner reservations.<br />

dining out – grand turk<br />

Bird Cage Restaurant — Osprey Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-1453.<br />

Full bar & restaurant. Lunch and dinner daily.<br />

Guanahani — Bohio Resort. Tel: 946-2135. Gourmet menu <strong>of</strong><br />

French, Italian and Asian influence with a Caribbean twist. Open<br />

daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.<br />

The Inn Restaurant & Bar — Grand Turk Inn. Tel: 431-0466.<br />

A taste <strong>of</strong> Asian fusions. Open daily for lunch and dinner.<br />

Closed on Tuesday.<br />

Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville — Grand Turk Cruise Center.<br />

High energy bar and restaurant. Swim-up pool bar and signature<br />

menu <strong>of</strong> grilled favorites.<br />

Sand Bar Restaurant — Manta House Beach. Tel: 946-1111.<br />

Quinessential beach bar serving local seafood specialties. Open<br />

for lunch and dinner, Sunday to Friday.<br />

Secret Garden — Salt Raker Inn. Tel: 946-2260. Local &<br />

American dishes in a garden courtyard. English breakfast.<br />

Weekly BBQ and sing-alongs.<br />

dining out –salt cay<br />

Coral Reef Bar & Grill — Tel: 232-1009. Breakfast, lunch and<br />

dinner daily on <strong>the</strong> beach. Full service bar.<br />

Pat’s Place — Island-style garden restaurant in historic district.<br />

Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.<br />

Porter’s Island Thyme — Tel: 242-0325. Gourmet island dining<br />

in open air dining room. Full bar. a<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2016</strong> 89


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