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Year X • N o <strong>55</strong>, 2016 • price 390 RSD<br />

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Film that We Live<br />

MARVELS<br />

OF THE<br />

ORDINARY


INSTITUTION STUDENTS’<br />

RESORT “BELGRADE”<br />

Business Unit “Ratko Mitrović” on Zlatibor<br />

It includes several high category facilities, built in the 1980’s and 1990’s.<br />

They were rebuilt and refurbished in accordance with modern standards. They<br />

are only a half kilometer away from the center of Zlatibor, in beautiful pinetree<br />

forest, and they offer exceptional conditions for rest and recreation. There<br />

is great interest among students for staying here. They also offer services to<br />

external customers.<br />

The complex consists of four facilities:<br />

Villa “<strong>Srbija</strong>”,<br />

On a surface area of 2.015 square meters, with 39 beds. It has a restaurant<br />

with 250 seats (four stars), seminar room with 50 seats, and summer garden<br />

with 150 seats.<br />

Villa “Lovćen”,<br />

On a surface area of 3.238 square meters, with 141 beds.<br />

Villa “Zlatibor”,<br />

On a surface area of 1.276 square meters, with 88 beds, with sports fitness club.<br />

Villa “Romanija”,<br />

Congress center, with two rooms with 250 seats each, surface area of 1.920<br />

square meters, and with 58 beds.<br />

Ulica sportova bb, 31315 Zlatibor<br />

031 841 369 • 031 841 791 • recepcija.zlatibor@usob.rs • www.usob.rs


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РАДИО<br />

P R O L O G U E<br />

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OLD WANDERINGS AND NEW EXPERIENCES<br />

Don’t Make Me Start<br />

This May, snow has picked the raspberries around Arilje, and the<br />

wind has moved garages into neighboring alleys in Jagodina. We<br />

didn’t have any floods, but we are drowning in a social shallow. Those<br />

who lose easily, but know where they’re heading, are dominant on the<br />

public scene. An open competition is foreshadowed for a Serbian heroic<br />

film about Vlah-Alija. The Football Association has unanimously<br />

concluded that defense is the best forward and that fixed games,<br />

which (of course) never happened, contribute to planning and predictability.<br />

Which is an important element of the European business<br />

environment. Our country has turned into a provincial bookmaker,<br />

where everyone wins small and short-term, except for Serbia, which<br />

loses big and long-term. Amateur bakeries and pharmacies, secondhand<br />

ideas and new promises are still blossoming. We are living on<br />

the expense of our great grandchildren.<br />

“I’m gone, this is not for me”, said the professional vagabond of<br />

National Review, multiplied in several copies. He took his rucksack,<br />

camera and footworn sneakers. The old hit echoing in his headset:<br />

“Oh, girl from Rovci, are you facebooking with your sheep?...” And<br />

so he left.<br />

Thus we arrived to Suvobor, the first Serbian mountain beach. We<br />

were in the Slanci, property of Chilandar, monastic community near<br />

Belgrade for a week. We counted horse and human powers at the<br />

“Štraparijada” in Ruma. Discussed how the Serbian orphan TV show<br />

World of Fishing conquered the planet. Reminded of the heraldry history<br />

of Belgrade, Manak’s House and zenitist Ljubomir Micić. Bid<br />

farewell to Bata Živojinović, Prince Aleksandar Pavle’s Karađorđević<br />

and Žarko Vidović. Talked to Jovan Zivlak and Marina Maljković.<br />

Many more things were rolling in our heads, but we remembered<br />

the wise words of Nikita Mikhalkov’s movie character: “Hey, people,<br />

don’t make me start!” <br />

Partners of the Publication:<br />

INSTITUTION OF<br />

STUDENTS VACATION<br />

BELGRADE<br />

Cover page:<br />

On Borsko Lake<br />

(photo: Želјko<br />

Sinobad)<br />

Magazine registered in the Register of Public Media<br />

of the Republic Serbia, no. NV000385<br />

ISSN 1452-8371 = Serbia - National Review<br />

COBISS.SR-ID 139201804<br />

MUNICIPALITY<br />

OF РУМА<br />

RTS - PUBLIC<br />

SERVICE OF SERBIA<br />

VRNJAČKA<br />

BANJA<br />

THE BELGRADE<br />

BUSINESS SCHOOL<br />

Media partners:<br />

ТЕЛЕВИЗИЈА<br />

ВОЈВОДИНЕ<br />

RTV VOJVODINA<br />

- PUBLIC SERVICE<br />

NEWSPAPER -<br />

SERBIAN PATRIARCHY<br />

THIS MAGAZINE IS PRINTED WITH SUPPORT FROM THE MINISTRY OF CULTURE<br />

04 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


CONTENTS<br />

Panorama<br />

04 PROLOGUE<br />

06 CHRONICLE<br />

Road Sign<br />

10 ALBUM: MOTIFS FROM EASTERN SERBIA<br />

16 ROADS: KOŠTUNIĆI, ON SUVOBOR<br />

24 PILGRIMAGES: SLANCI<br />

32 ENCOUNTERS: “ŠTRAPARIJADA” IN RUMA<br />

36 HOOK: “THE WORLD OF FISHING”<br />

Chrestomathy<br />

42 LIGHTHOUSES: SERBS IN RUSSIAN CHRONICLE (3)<br />

50 INSIGNIA: HERALDIC HISTORY OF BELGRADE<br />

56 MARK: MANAK’S HOUSE<br />

Culture<br />

62 OUTLOOKS: LJUBOMIR MICIĆ (1895-1971)<br />

70 DEPARTURE: ŽARKO VIDOVIĆ (1921-2016)<br />

78 LIFE, NOVELS: JOVAN ZIVLAK<br />

88 PALLET: SERGEI APARIN<br />

106 SLAVIJA: “THE DAYS OF SLAVIC LITERACY”<br />

Introducing<br />

96 THE WINNER: MARINA MALЈKOVIĆ<br />

102 CONNECTIONS: TESLA’S TIME MACHINE<br />

110 HEALTH: PRIMEVAL POWER OF WATER<br />

112 CENTERS: “KARATAŠ” IN KLADOVO<br />

115 JUBILEE: BELGRADE BUSINESS SCHOOL<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

05


P A N O R A M A<br />

News Stream<br />

>> In the first four months of this<br />

year, Serbia was visited by 718,750<br />

tourists, which is 15 percent more<br />

than in the same period last year,<br />

announced at the end of May the<br />

Tourist Organization of Serbia. Of<br />

these, there were 412,386 domestic<br />

tourists (14 percent more than last<br />

year), and 306,364 foreign tourists<br />

(15 percent). By the number<br />

of overnight stays, domestic guests<br />

mostly stayed in the mountains (49<br />

per cent) and spa resorts (26 percent),<br />

while foreign guests stayed<br />

in Belgrade (53 percent) and in<br />

mountain resorts (15 percent).<br />

>> Promotional tour of the Tourist<br />

Organization of Belgrade started<br />

on 27 May with a program in Timisoara.<br />

On the central square of<br />

this beautiful city in Banat, Romania,<br />

the audience enjoyed in<br />

Serbian folklore, tambura players,<br />

delicacies of Serbian cuisine, wines.<br />

Businessmen also had busy schedule<br />

of meetings and presentations.<br />

The TOB’s Caravan - then goes to<br />

Vienna, Podgorica, Banjaluka, Sofia,<br />

Thessaloniki, Ljubljana...<br />

>> The past extended winter season<br />

was the most successful in the history<br />

of Serbian mountain tourism,<br />

announced recently the public<br />

company “Ski resorts of Serbia”.<br />

Turnover was around 805 million<br />

dinars, which is by 15 percent more<br />

than in the previous season. The<br />

highest turnover was in February:<br />

285 million dinars.<br />

>> “The future is now”. The three-week<br />

long Belgrade International Architecture<br />

Week was held under this<br />

title, from 5 to 28 May. Through exhibitions,<br />

lectures and seminars, the<br />

near future of architecture was dis-<br />

Dis’ Spring<br />

Fifty-third “Dis’ Spring”,<br />

with a number of<br />

beautiful literary and<br />

cultural events, adorned<br />

Čačak again this May,<br />

organized by the City Library<br />

“Vladislav Petković<br />

Dis”. On this occasion,<br />

a special collection Dis’<br />

poetry Separated Silences<br />

was printed, the magazine<br />

dedicated to the<br />

fifty-third edition of this<br />

event, catalog of the exhibition<br />

about the poet<br />

Tomislav Marinković,<br />

this year’s winner of the<br />

“Dis’ Award”. Anthology<br />

Poetry of Branko V. Radičević (coeditor: the Institute<br />

for Literature and Art in Belgrade) a tribute to one of<br />

the founders of “Dis’ Spring”. The winner of “Young Dis”<br />

Award is Ognjen Obradović from Užice, and awards for<br />

an essay on Dis’ work went to Milica Bešić from Dubočica<br />

near Leskovac.<br />

Belgrade Festival of Poetry<br />

More than forty participants from nine countries attended<br />

the Tenth Belgrade Festival of Poetry and Books<br />

“Snap out of it! Poetry!”,<br />

which took<br />

place from 25 to 30<br />

May, in several interesting<br />

locations in the<br />

Serbian capital. From<br />

the memory of Vasko<br />

Popa (1922-1991)<br />

under the slogan Far<br />

Away, in Us, to the final<br />

Eating Poetry, from<br />

Roman Hall of the<br />

City Library and the<br />

Faculty of Philology<br />

to Mladenovac, from<br />

Stevan Tontić and Alvina<br />

Panga to Roman<br />

Honet and Andrej Ljupka,<br />

yet another living<br />

focal point of poetry<br />

was created. Will<br />

this finally convince<br />

us that poetry is not<br />

dead, but that those<br />

who are numb to it are<br />

dead?<br />

06 SRBIJA • BROJ 54 • 2016.


cussed, and the use of new technologies<br />

in this field.<br />

Sterija Ran Away<br />

The sixty first “Sterijino Pozorje” is taking place in a sad<br />

trend of lack of quantity and particularly quality, from 26<br />

May to 2 June in Novi Sad, with seven performances in the<br />

competitive, and two in the international program “Circles”.<br />

Obviously, “political correctness” prevails. Regulated media<br />

are trying to draw special attention production of Foreign<br />

Heart or a Theatrical Debate on Borders by Bilјana Srblјanović<br />

directed by Dino Mustafić, and the production of We Are<br />

the Ones That Our Parents Warned Us about by Tanja Šljivar<br />

directed by Mirjana Karanović, performed by the Bosnian<br />

National Theatre from Zenica. At the moment of conclusion<br />

of this issue, the official winners are not yet known, but it is<br />

known that the list does not include Theatre, Art or Serbia.<br />

Sterija ran away.<br />

Kočić Is Holding On<br />

The production of Walking Ghost of the Serbian National<br />

Theatre from Novi Sad and Centre for Development of<br />

Visual Culture is the winner of the nineteenth Theatre Fest<br />

held from 17 to 24 May in Banjaluka. This production won<br />

the awards for best production and best directing, dramatic<br />

text (Dejan Dukovski) and set design (Tadžiser Sevindž and<br />

Saša Senković).<br />

Best actor award went to Branko Vidaković as Momcilo<br />

Jabučilo, and best actress was Nada Šargin as Zora Šišarka,<br />

both in the production of Coffee White of the National Theatre<br />

in Belgrade. The best costumes award went to Marina<br />

Vukasović Medenica.<br />

>> With the installation Heroik:<br />

“Freeshiping”, authored by young<br />

architects Ana Šulkić, Stefan Vasić<br />

and Igor Sjeverac, Serbia will be<br />

presented at the fifteenth Architecture<br />

Biennale in Venice. From<br />

28 May to 27 November, sixtyfour<br />

countries will participate at<br />

the Biennale. The budget for the<br />

participation of Serbia is 20 million<br />

dinars, and the national pavilion<br />

was renovated this year.<br />

>> Award for contemporary music<br />

“Ernst von Siemens Music Prize”<br />

was awarded this year to Serbian<br />

composer Milica Đorđević. It was<br />

presented recently in Prince-Regent<br />

Theatre in Munich.<br />

>> On the occasion of the fortieth<br />

anniversary of the release of the<br />

first book of Serbian writer and<br />

poet Dragan Lakićević (Between<br />

us, Winter, Matica srpska, 1976),<br />

the publishing house “Partenon”<br />

from Belgrade published a selection<br />

of his poems entitled The<br />

Poet of Snow. About forty poems<br />

dominated by the motif of snow<br />

were selected by Dr. Aleksandra<br />

Žeželj Kocić who also wrote the<br />

preface.<br />

>> Anthology Prayers of Saint Sava.<br />

Prayers to Saint Sava by Jovan<br />

Pejčić was presented on May<br />

10 at the House of Đura Jakšić<br />

in Belgrade. Graphic design for<br />

the book was signed by Bole<br />

Miloradović, and the publisher is<br />

“Magelan Pres”.<br />

>> The first theater festival “Theatrical<br />

Spring” was held recently in<br />

SERBIA • N O 54 • 2016<br />

07


P A N O R A M A<br />

News Stream<br />

Šabac. The audience saw twelve best<br />

Serbian productions from 2015,<br />

featuring the National Theatre from<br />

Belgrade, Serbian National Theatre<br />

from Novi Sad, the Yugoslav Drama<br />

Theatre, “Zvezdara Theater”, the<br />

National Theatre from Sombor...<br />

Exhibition Commemoration of Serbian<br />

Golgotha ​ by painter Dragan<br />

Martinović was in the accompanying<br />

program.<br />

>> Crničani, the first novel by Dr. Miodrag<br />

Stojković, from Leskovac, a<br />

well-known Serbian and world geneticist,<br />

was recently brought before<br />

the readers. It deals with the<br />

exciting life of the Serbs formerly<br />

colonized in the south of South Serbia,<br />

today Macedonia.<br />

>> Jadranka Stojaković (1950-2016),<br />

a famous singer and songwriter,<br />

passed away on 3 May in Banjaluka.<br />

Former Yugoslav music star, she<br />

lived in Japan for a long time, and<br />

spent her last years in the house of<br />

the Nursing Home “Karitas” in the<br />

capital of Srpska. Will be remember<br />

her for many memorable songs,<br />

especially “Why Are You Not Here”<br />

and “We Could Do Anything”.<br />

>> The exhibition Road to Abstraction<br />

by Ljubica Cuca Sokić (1914-2009)<br />

was opened on 5 May in the Heritage<br />

House in Belgrade. In addition<br />

to the twenty-seven works bequeathed<br />

to the Heritage House by<br />

the famous artist, exhibited are also<br />

paintings loaned from the National<br />

Museum, Museum of Contemporary<br />

Art and the collection of the<br />

Gatalović family.<br />

Prince<br />

His Highness Prince (Pavlov)<br />

passed away on 12 May<br />

in Paris, at the age of ninety<br />

two. Born in 1924 in White<br />

Lodge, Britain, he fled Serbia<br />

with his family after the coup<br />

on 27 March 1941. He lived in<br />

Greece, Egypt, Kenya, England,<br />

France... He graduated from<br />

Eaton and other elite schools.<br />

In World War II, at the age of<br />

eighteen, he was a voluntary<br />

pilot of the British air force.<br />

After the war, among other things, he was the president of<br />

the airline, one of the founders of the Serbian Unity Congress.<br />

He had five children from two marriages. The only<br />

member of the Karađorđević dynasty who apologized to<br />

Serbian people for the “terrible mistake called Yugoslavia”.<br />

He was buried in Oplenac, with the highest church, state<br />

and military honors.<br />

Bata<br />

Velimir Živojinović (1933-<br />

2016), a famous Serbian actor,<br />

passed away in Belgrade after<br />

a long and serious illness. He<br />

was buried on 26 May in the<br />

Alley of the Greats at the New<br />

Cemetery. He was escorted by<br />

thousands of people, known<br />

and unknown.<br />

He made his debut in<br />

19<strong>55</strong>, in the film A Song from<br />

Kumbara. He acted in more<br />

than 350 films, including<br />

seventeen westerns shot in<br />

Germany. After the film Valter<br />

Defends Sarajevo, in the<br />

1970’s, he was regarded a national hero in China. At the funeral,<br />

the actor Milorad Mandić, said goodbye to him with<br />

the following words: “You liked us, Bata. We didn’t like you.<br />

We adored you.”<br />

>> Nagrada “Dositej Obradović” life<br />

achievement award was awarded<br />

08 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


Banjani and Rudine<br />

The first issue of the<br />

Chronicles of Banjani and<br />

Rudine, published by the<br />

Association “Bishop Sava<br />

Kosanović”, was launched<br />

on 16 May in Belgrade.<br />

Distinguished guests<br />

from culture, economy<br />

and politics, were addressed<br />

by the Bishop<br />

of Budim and Nikšić<br />

Joanikije, President of<br />

the Association, and a<br />

prominent businessman Branislav Baćović, editor of the<br />

Chronicles, writer Milutin Mićović, writer Čedo Baćović,<br />

prof. Veselin Matović, prof.<br />

Dr. Časlav Koprivica, gusle<br />

player Milomir Milјanić,<br />

actor Sava Radović.<br />

The Association of Banjani<br />

and Rudine “Bishop<br />

Sava Kosanović” was established<br />

to take care of preservation<br />

of the cultural and<br />

spiritual heritage of their<br />

region, as well as the memories<br />

of the Metropolitan<br />

Sava Kosanović and his<br />

legacy.<br />

The Power of the Documentary<br />

Ninth International<br />

Documentary Film Festival<br />

“Beldoks” was held<br />

from 12 to 18 May in<br />

Belgrade. It presented<br />

fifty-seven films from<br />

around the world.<br />

The Grand Prix<br />

went to the films The<br />

Second Line by Nenad<br />

Milošević and The Wall of Death and So On by Mladen<br />

Kovačević. The award for best foreign film went to Sonita<br />

by Roksara Gaem Maghami and Great Happiness by Kirsten<br />

Burger, Mik Gaestel and Johannes Muller. Domestic vocational<br />

awards were<br />

introduced for the<br />

first time.<br />

The Best Cinematography<br />

award<br />

went to Pablo Fero<br />

Živanović, and Best<br />

Editing to Jelena<br />

Maksimović.<br />

recently to Raša Popov, writer<br />

and longtime television journalist.<br />

>> “Golden Jug”, life achievement<br />

award, at the Eleventh International<br />

Documentary Film Festival<br />

in Velika Plana, was awarded<br />

on May 3 rd to Radoslav Zelenović,<br />

former long-time director of the<br />

Belgrade Film Archive.<br />

>> Short film Regression by Milan<br />

Andrijašević was crowned with<br />

the “Platinum Award” at the<br />

World Fest in Huston, the oldest<br />

and largest independent film festival<br />

in the world.<br />

>> “The Great Seal”, Award of Belgrade<br />

“Graphic Collective” for<br />

Belgrade, for the year 2016 , went<br />

to Nikola Velicki for his work The<br />

Head, executed in the technique<br />

of screen printing and exhibited<br />

at the May Exhibition of graphics<br />

in Belgrade.<br />

>> Evening of solo songs by Belgrade<br />

composer and academician<br />

Ivan Jevtić was held in early<br />

May in Teatro Lírico Nacional de<br />

Cuba, in Havana, with the participation<br />

of Cuban opera star.<br />

>> Brewery Museum “Đorđe Vajfert”<br />

was recently opened in Pančevo.<br />

It is situated on 9,000 square meters<br />

of the old “Brewery”, which<br />

was operational from 1722.<br />

>> Water polo players of “Partizan”<br />

from Belgrade won the title of<br />

the state champion at the twenty-seventh<br />

championship, having<br />

defeated “Zvezda” with 10:9 in<br />

the second game of the playoffs<br />

on 25 May.<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

09


A L B U M<br />

On Borsko Lake<br />

EASTERN SERBIA IN THE LENS OF ŽELJKO SINOBAD<br />

Wonders of the Ordinary<br />

It is a magical landscape of mythical depths. Cones and sphinxes of eastern<br />

Serbian mountains remember more than books and humans. Their people<br />

know how to live with the secret of the world. They don’t ask redundant questions,<br />

they don’t give answers after which there is no turning back. Life there is<br />

a ritual.<br />

Željko Sinobad (Belgrade, 1962), our Željko, is a master of photography. His<br />

documentaries live, from events, artistic as much as art exists in this “rigorous<br />

earthly prose” of ours. And it does.<br />

This Željko dived into the wondrous worlds of eastern Serbia so many times.<br />

The exhibition of photographs Motifs from eastern Serbia, which had its premiere<br />

last April in the Regional Museum in Ruma, testifies about those remarkable<br />

encounters.<br />

We were there and saw a comprehensive poetics, with strong cinematographic<br />

elements. A scene reduced to its black and white weft, colored by each observer<br />

in their own specific way. Ordinary life, which constantly makes you wonder.<br />

Consecration of a holy oak tree. Apple, bread. A wreath of yellow bedstraw with<br />

a lit candle, dropped into the river. Dodolas, koledari, lazarice, rusalke. Rituals<br />

that work even when their participants don’t know why. A boy on the window,<br />

astonished, perhaps even afraid of the world. The joy of cattlemen because of<br />

a calf, a new baby. A gnarled hand on a polished stick. A shot of golden rakia,<br />

under a white mulberry tree, in dark times. Old memories and young breasts.<br />

A fire that will question everything. And people everywhere. Eyes. Faces pure,<br />

childlike, or those on which life has written a long story, “all those faces faded<br />

from pain”.<br />

Raw realism full of fiction. Documentaries made of dreams and thundering<br />

vagueness.<br />

For a moment you think that there is something of Bergman there. Something<br />

of Parajanov and Fellini, Bela Tarr and Saša Petrović. But no. It doesn’t fit<br />

in. It’s Željko Sinobad, himself. His flesh, blood and footstep. With a two-day and<br />

three-life beard. (B. M.)<br />

10 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

11


А Л Б У М / А Л Ь Б О М / A L B U M<br />

12 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

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A L B U M<br />

On the peak of Rtanj<br />

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SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

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R A D S I G N<br />

IN KOŠTUNIĆI, ON SUVOBOR, THE FIRST SERBIAN MOUNTAIN BEACH<br />

Gifts of<br />

the Earth and Sky<br />

16 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


This is that grain of Serbia from which everything sprouts all over again. That beautiful scenery, the<br />

healthy water and food, hardworking and noble people. Certain wisdom and effort, and investments, of<br />

course, are necessary so that all this would shine in its full and irresistible splendor. That is why people<br />

ccome here aall the way from Cacak, Milanovac, Pozega, Valjevo, but also from Sweden, France, Russia,<br />

from all over. The beauty and grace do not need to be explained, we should just let ourselves to hem<br />

By: Miloš Lazić<br />

Photo:<br />

Saša Savović<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

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R A D S I G N<br />

At the beach<br />

in Koštunići<br />

If you go there via Rajac, the road is<br />

shorter and more beautiful, but it is<br />

faster via Čačak and Pranjane. It will<br />

be like this until they have completed the<br />

E-763, known here as Corridor 11. When<br />

taking the shorter route to Kostunići, it takes<br />

more than three hours by car, but it’s worth<br />

it. Because, everything they say about this<br />

corner of Serbia is the truth: water from<br />

Čemernica is really drinkable, and the only<br />

time it is not good is in the spring when it<br />

overflows, and after heavy rains, and the air<br />

is clear as a stream. And the same goes for<br />

the remaining five rivers that flow through<br />

the village, in Drenovača, Bukovača, Grab,<br />

Dučina and Šiban. This is because the closest<br />

factory stack, if releasing smoke at all, is<br />

25 kilometers away. From the above, from<br />

Ravna Gora, a great view extends of almost<br />

half of Serbia, forests are abundant, and the<br />

domestic animals roam lazily in green pastures<br />

grazing the nightshade. People are few,<br />

but if one comes to talk to a traveller, all will<br />

be compensated.<br />

If someone interested in geography,<br />

Koštunići is twenty-five kilometers away<br />

from Čačak, forty from Gornji Milanovac,<br />

and the same from Pozega, and as much as<br />

sixty from Valjevo. Although it is the second<br />

in Serbia by its surface area, the village has<br />

barely two hundred households, mostly scattered<br />

around the undulating beauty: all in<br />

all, about six hundred souls.<br />

People are similar as everywhere, those<br />

hardworking, good and virtuous prevail.<br />

The village center is near the Church of St.<br />

Petka, the newest of the three existing, but it<br />

slightly exceeds behind the hills, where a curios<br />

ethno-village settled down, with a lake<br />

created recently, when the Čemernica was<br />

dammed. Its banks were chained with hewn<br />

stone, and a part covered with sand for beach<br />

and swimmers. Upstream is a pond that is<br />

teeming with fish, and near the bank there<br />

are nine little wooden houses for guests, resembling<br />

large tubs, which werre due to the<br />

coincidence in numbers and affectionately<br />

nicknamed “Nine brothers Jugović”. Developed<br />

sports courts are all around. Above the<br />

dam is a nice restaurant for about a hundred<br />

guests, and that nobody in the village would<br />

be embarrasd for it. On the contrary! And all<br />

this is settled at 520 meters above sea level!<br />

The rest is above, in the hill.<br />

The central building looks like a large<br />

village house from the time of Obrenović<br />

dynasty, while the smaller ones surrounding<br />

it remind of windowless wooden cabins.<br />

They look like this outside, but inside each is<br />

equipped with all kinds of miracles of mod-<br />

18 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


ern times. Between is an ancient linden, and<br />

in its shadow a spacious wooden terrace. It<br />

is where the guests and locals meet, over<br />

rakia, fruit preserves and ice water for welcome,<br />

so that no one feels like they are here<br />

for the first time. It is here also that they will<br />

be saying farewell as if they have just became<br />

best of friends, when the time comes.<br />

If someone happens to come there on St.<br />

Vitus Day, they will make sure to return at<br />

the same time next year.<br />

OLD SCHOOL, NEW STUDENTS<br />

Everything feels like some ecological<br />

zone, as they are now called. Because, Ravna<br />

gora has been anathematized for decades,<br />

and the famous Battle of Suvobor almost<br />

forgotten. Therefore, there has been almost<br />

no new development here until recently. All<br />

this has turned out to be good, at least for<br />

what they are planning to do here – to restore<br />

and improve the village and agriculture,<br />

predominantly production of food,<br />

healthy and organic food, before Serbia<br />

joins the European Union and they bring<br />

that Europe to their villaage.<br />

The idea came from Jovan Čeković, an<br />

occasional resident of Koštunići. In his former<br />

life he was a general, and he spend his<br />

lifetime a little in the military diplomacy,<br />

a little in military economy, the dedicated<br />

one, and retired young, just to continue<br />

where he left off. Perhaps out of spite, but<br />

more to leave a trail behind, he decided to<br />

build an ethno-village, an endowment, so to<br />

speak, in his homeplace. not for profit, but<br />

to employ those few children that are left<br />

there, to bring some youth energy into the<br />

village and help it survive. Because, according<br />

to the story of the evillage priest, which<br />

now there is almost no one to hear, until<br />

yesterday in its spacious but, by the number<br />

of souls, small parish, five to six homes have<br />

been permanently closed every year.<br />

One ethno-village already sprouted in<br />

Koštunići about twenty years ago, probably<br />

the first in Serbia. They wrote in newspapers<br />

about it, he was on TV all the time. They said<br />

that he was a role model for many of the re-<br />

Children<br />

Pupils from<br />

Belgrade a the<br />

recreational class<br />

in Koštunići<br />

As someone said – so that they don’t get sad every year<br />

when they announce that fewer and fewer students are getting<br />

enrolled in the old school. Well, God willing, if there is enough<br />

of them to finally open an eight-grade school in their village, so<br />

that the children of the fifth would not have to walk six kilometers<br />

to Pranjani and, in cold winters and hot summers, as their<br />

fathers and grandfathers had to do.<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

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R A D S I G N<br />

20 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


maining two hundred and fifty, as there are<br />

now! Yes, it sprouted, but it also withered. It<br />

is that old story about government property<br />

that belongs to everyone and no one.<br />

– That is why I decided to build this<br />

ethno-village by myself, on my own land, to<br />

hire about twenty people to work there and<br />

to earn a fair wage. But it got out of control,<br />

became independent, and now it employs<br />

three times as many people, and in the high<br />

season, when there is most work both on the<br />

eland and in the Centre, there are as many<br />

as two hundred. And yet, that something has<br />

really changed for the better, I understood<br />

from something else: nobody has ever heard<br />

of Koštunići before, so the local villagers<br />

presented themselves as if they were from<br />

Pranjani, while today those from Pranjani<br />

claim to be from Koštunići!<br />

The only concession to himself Jovan<br />

Čeković did when he officially named the<br />

ethno-village with the lake after his father;<br />

the Tourist and Recreational Center „Momcilo<br />

Čeković”.<br />

– It does belong to him. – It all sported<br />

on his land! If my Momčilo could have seen<br />

this, he would have left happyly... although<br />

he was hard to please.<br />

COW ON LEASE<br />

It started ten years ago, when he bought<br />

an old log cabin and disassembled it, marking<br />

carefully its every part, and then transferred<br />

it here. When it was later assembled,<br />

it was even more beautiful than before. It<br />

is now the central building. And then, little<br />

by little, something would sprout every<br />

year. That is how, I guess, most of the other<br />

ethno-villages in Serbia were built, but they<br />

are usually organized as family cooperatives,<br />

while this is organized as a real company.<br />

– When the prefix “ethno” is given to a<br />

village, you cannot buy groceries in a grocery<br />

store, and import “handicrafts” from<br />

abroad, thus cheating the guests – explained<br />

Danijela Damljanović, Director. – You can<br />

do it once, and then what? So we immediately<br />

established the rule that everything we<br />

offer is local. And everything people eat or<br />

drink here is produced in Koštunići, and we<br />

only buy oil, sugar, salt, coffee, spices and<br />

– beer and mineral water. In order to stay<br />

like this, someone has to produce it, all that<br />

must be of good quality, just when you are<br />

producing for yourself. It was up to us to<br />

organize all that and pay it fairly, which we<br />

do, and that is why the farmers make much<br />

more money than when they sell their products<br />

in the market in Čačak or Melanoma!<br />

Only, they did not stop at that!<br />

Once some idle walkers wondered into<br />

a yard of a farmer, and he was just taking<br />

a pregnant cow out of the barn. Impressed,<br />

the started praising it, and asked him where<br />

he got it, and he told them, just like that, that<br />

he had taken it on lease. The guests got offended,<br />

they thought he was joking, making<br />

fun of them, but when he explained everything<br />

in detail, it all came together. Because,<br />

Lesson<br />

Fruit from<br />

Koštunići arrives<br />

in many parts of<br />

the world<br />

People in Koštunići thought to increase the production of<br />

healthy food because of the Frenchman. But they recalled that<br />

the Serbian winemaking ruined socialism with the idea that the<br />

winemakers would compete in quantity but not in quality, and<br />

they gave up.<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

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R A D S I G N<br />

it really turns out tu be like that. From the<br />

ethno-village they donated to the neighbors<br />

some cattle, about a hunderd, and in turn,<br />

when the need arises, these they should deliver<br />

their products such as kajmak, cheese,<br />

eggs, fresh and dried meat, vegetables, fruit,<br />

wheat or corn flour, mushrooms... and it is<br />

good for everyone, there is even more than<br />

enough.<br />

For this reason they built a dryer, refrigerator,<br />

plant for the production and bottling<br />

of exceptional fruit rakias, primarily plum<br />

rakia, and for honey ... and many more wonders.<br />

Today these are little factories unified<br />

under the same name “Grab”, after the creek.<br />

So, when a guest takes any such”souvenir”<br />

from Serbia, it will truly reminiscent of<br />

Koštunići, the hosts, and the time they spent<br />

here, at the foot of Suvobor.<br />

– Once I got a visit from Ljuba Jovković,<br />

an old friend who lives in Marseille, where<br />

he runs a decent family hotel – Jovan says seriously.<br />

- He heard, he says, that we produce<br />

organic foods, and as the French are crazy<br />

about it, he decided to offer them something<br />

“made in Serbia”, to boast how we also<br />

know how to make something right. But,<br />

when he tried, he almost had a stroke, and<br />

he insisted that we make a business deal. We<br />

barely restrained him, and that only when<br />

we explained that this is intended primarily<br />

for the local guests. But if his French people<br />

really care so muc, they can stop by, they<br />

wwill get an original of everything, at the<br />

very source.<br />

When he was goingt back, they packed<br />

for him a bit of everything. He called a day or<br />

two later to boast that what he had brought<br />

was gone immediately, and that everything<br />

was bought by the French, right befor ethe<br />

noses of the local Serbs. He cried that they<br />

sent more of that. It may be the case, but if<br />

things develop the waay they planned.<br />

VILLAGE DIPLOMACY<br />

Roughly, Koštunići lake with its beach<br />

could accommodate at least two thousand<br />

swimmers, while there are about six hundred<br />

people living in the village, half of<br />

whom would not dare to jump into water<br />

even at gunpoint, not even to moisten their<br />

feet. But they have not miscalculated. This<br />

benefit is primarily intended for guests of<br />

the Center, then the residents of Koštunići<br />

and the surrounding villages, and finally<br />

those from Čačak and Milanovac, for whom<br />

this is a substitute for the increasingly remote<br />

sea. Admission is free for guests, and<br />

the rest paid symbolically, only to cover the<br />

cost of water and electricity. And, as the<br />

prices at the restaurant are far below those<br />

in the town, it is sometimes difficult to get<br />

hold of free space on the beach, let alone in<br />

the restaurant.<br />

It is interesting that this village was<br />

somehow discovered by foreigners, and<br />

they often drop by. Recently, a large group<br />

of young Swedes stayed here for a month:<br />

they encamped in Koštunići, and from there<br />

they cruised around Serbia studying our<br />

folklor. Tey didn’t want to leave at the end,<br />

they fell in love so much with village, nature<br />

and the people.<br />

So, people in Koštunići came to an unusual<br />

idea. They offered to several foreign<br />

diplomats as a gift, land up above the Centre,<br />

to build houses there in their national style<br />

to go there on vacation and bring guests.<br />

All of them have accepted the gift with enthusiasm,<br />

and with gratitude, and will soon<br />

a true “diplomatic settlement” will be built<br />

here. It remains for the friendly villagers to<br />

learn a few words in English or Russian, and<br />

they will be ready to embark on the “International<br />

Relations”. And generally – there is<br />

no better diplomacy than Serbian chastity<br />

and cordiality, local food and drinks, and<br />

this much beauty that God has given to us.<br />

When asked why he engaged in this,<br />

rather uncertain adventure, the host was<br />

thoughtful for a moment, then uttered almost<br />

emarassingly:<br />

– In my working life, I earned enough, I<br />

do not need more. But just because of that<br />

I feel an obligation to repay to this people.<br />

That’s why some time ago I established the<br />

Association of Serbian Hosts, which gathers<br />

under its wing truly reputable hosts<br />

and businessmen from the country and<br />

the Diaspora who have that same need to<br />

repay their motherland... and to help hiter.<br />

Not everyone can be compared with Ilija<br />

Milosavlјević, Luka Ćelović, Nikola Spasić,<br />

Vlajko Kalenić, Sima Andrejević or Miša<br />

Anastasijević, with people who restored<br />

and improved Serbia in the past century<br />

and century before that, but if each of us<br />

contributes a little, as much as e can, everything<br />

would start getting better. because, as<br />

Nikola Spasić described it long ago, wealth<br />

is not measured by how it is acquired, but<br />

by how it is used. If it benefits the people,<br />

for sure you will not go wrong. <br />

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SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

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P I L G R I M A G E S<br />

Photo:<br />

Želјko Sinobad<br />

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SLANCI MONASTERY NEAR BELGRADE, A METOCHION OF HILANDAR<br />

Under the Third Hand<br />

of the Virgin<br />

According to legend, this sanctuary is an endowment of King Dragutin Nemanjić. The monastery had<br />

special significance in Stefan’s despotate. Đurđe and Jerina visited often. They say that the relics of St.<br />

Stefan archdeacon and martyr, used to lie here. However, it is known for a fact that, in 1961, Patriarch<br />

German stored particles of the relics of this Saint, obtained from Russia, at the altar table. From 1969,<br />

when the monastery became an appendage of the Hilandar, a replica of the icon of the Three-Handed<br />

Virgin was also consecrated here. Prayers from Slanci are heard far and are effective<br />

By: Danijela Knežević Stevanović<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

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P I L G R I M A G E S<br />

At the liturgy in<br />

Slanci<br />

Deputy Protopriest<br />

Haji Milan S.<br />

Tanasić<br />

Father Andrej,<br />

abbot of the<br />

monastery<br />

A<br />

few kilometers from Višnjička<br />

Banja, a winding road through a<br />

hilly landscape brings us to the<br />

village of Slanci, then to the monastery<br />

dedicated to the Holy Archdeacon Stefan.<br />

Week after week, and on holidays,<br />

the liturgical assemblies take place there<br />

People from different parts of Belgrade<br />

and Serbia come to pray for help from<br />

the Three-Handed Virgin, the miraculous<br />

icon of Hilandar, and the blessing of Saint<br />

Stefan.<br />

According to legend, the relics of St.<br />

Stefan rested in this holy place, and then<br />

disappeared without a trace. The old<br />

chronicles say that Slanci was the favorite<br />

resort of Đurđe and Jerina Branković,<br />

as well as many other people at different<br />

times. In the era of the Turkish occupation,<br />

significant a great number of clergy, monks<br />

and hermits died a horrific death here, including<br />

thirty students. After the massacre,<br />

the non-decomposed body of the eldest<br />

Icon<br />

A chronicle mentions the story by Bishop Lukijan of how the<br />

monks of Slanci monastery, during the migrations under Patriarch<br />

Arsenije Čarnojević, saved valuable icon of the Mother of<br />

God. They carried it to Austria-Hungary and put away. Today, it is<br />

located in Romania.<br />

student Stefan remained, and the monks<br />

transferred it to Vojlovica near Pančevo.<br />

During the reconstruction of the temple,<br />

in the second half of the 20 th century, Patriarch<br />

German stored a piece of the relics<br />

of St. Archdeacon Stefan in the altar table.<br />

The holy particle was given to him by the<br />

Russian Patriarch Alexei in 1961, during<br />

German’s visit to Russia.<br />

From its inception until today, the<br />

monastery of Slanci has been attracting attention<br />

of many devotees and pilgrims.<br />

On the date of transfer of the relics<br />

of the Holy Father Nicholas, on Sunday,<br />

May 22, when the reporters of National<br />

Review also came to Slanci Monastery, a<br />

large number of believers gathered. The<br />

Church of Saint Stefan was crowded.<br />

Thanks to the great efforts of Abbot Andrew<br />

(Jovičić) and the entire fraternity,<br />

it has been many years that hundreds of<br />

people attend the liturgy in this holy place<br />

every week.<br />

– Yesterday there was a monastic ceremony<br />

here, we received another brother<br />

– father Andrej tells us. – According to<br />

tradition, Slanci is an endowment of King<br />

Dragutin Nemanjić whose “Northern<br />

Kingdom” included this area as well. At<br />

first, the monastery was dedicated to the<br />

Presentation, and later, from the time of<br />

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P I L G R I M A G E S<br />

28 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


Despot Stefan Lazarević, it was dedicated<br />

to St. Stefan the Martyr. Then, in Stephen’s<br />

despotate, the monastery had a particularly<br />

important role, because it was located in<br />

immediate vicinity of the old capital. There<br />

is also reference to the then Abbot Vasilije,<br />

who visited Jerusalem. The fate of the<br />

sanctuary, as elsewhere, is closely connected<br />

with the history and fate of the Serbian<br />

people. Every time people were suffering,<br />

the monastery was also destroyed. During<br />

the Great Migration under the Patriarch<br />

Arsenije Čarnojević, the local monks were<br />

also forced to flee. They took what they<br />

could and headed toward Fruška Gora.<br />

Only after the Požarevac Treaty (1718),<br />

they returned to Slanci, renovated the<br />

monastery as much as it was possible and<br />

continued to live here.<br />

HISTORY OF SUFFERING<br />

AND ELEVATION<br />

– The monastery then continued to<br />

vegetate until 1834, when it was deserted<br />

and collapsed – continued Abbot Andrej.<br />

– Two churches were erected from this<br />

material: St. Elias in Mirijevo and the Holy<br />

Archdeacon Stefan in Slanci. In1833, when<br />

prince Miloš Obrenović ordered him to<br />

make an inventory of churches and monasteries<br />

in the vicinity of Belgrade, Joakim<br />

Vujić writes that Abbot Damaskin received<br />

him very cordially in Slanci. Vujić<br />

describes the church with two domes, says<br />

that the previous one was repaired, but<br />

was later abandoned and collapsed. It remained<br />

like this until 1905, when villagers<br />

built a rectangular chapel, probably on<br />

the foundations of the old church. Later, in<br />

1969, Patriarch German built this apse and<br />

a small dormitory. Then, for St. Patron’s<br />

Day, for the consecration of the monastery,<br />

Nikanor, vice-abbot of Hilandar also arrived,<br />

with several monks. They brought as<br />

a gift of an icon of the Three-Handed Virgin,<br />

painted and consecrated in Hilandar.<br />

With the blessing of Patriarch German, the<br />

monastery of Slanci was then declared an<br />

appendage of Hilandar.<br />

After World War II, it was not easy to<br />

establish a greater brotherhood in Slanci,<br />

because in the communist Yugoslavia the<br />

monastery land had been confiscated.<br />

To Live Truthfully<br />

After the<br />

liturgy: lighting<br />

candles and meal<br />

in the monastery<br />

dining room<br />

Wonderful spiritual lessons of noble Russian elders of Municipal<br />

are compiled in the book “Live Truthfully”. It is a true and effective<br />

guide to non-hypocritical and humble life “on the path to<br />

Christ and in Christ”. Prof. Janja Todorović, an Orthodox publicist,<br />

gave a lecture about this in Slanci this week.<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

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P I L G R I M A G E S<br />

Hieromonk<br />

Stefan serving<br />

Sunday liturgy in<br />

Slanci monastery<br />

After a long time, father Andrej says, the<br />

brotherhood of the monastery managed<br />

to recover their estate. With the support<br />

of the City of Belgrade, they created an<br />

urban plan for the reconstruction of the<br />

monastery. The monastery redeemed<br />

from farmers their former lands and it<br />

now owns ten hectares of land. Today in<br />

its estate, in addition to the Church of St.<br />

Stefan and the dormitory, there are two<br />

outer dining rooms that can accommodate<br />

hundreds of people.<br />

– When I came here, in 1992, the then<br />

abbot of Hilandar father Mitrofan was<br />

very active and visited Slanci regularly.<br />

Thanks to him, redemption of the land and<br />

restoration of the monastery began. Father<br />

Mitrofan then passed away, and there was<br />

that terrible fire in Hilandar, so that now<br />

we don’t have such a big support as before.<br />

THE VINES THAT BEARS FAITH<br />

The discussion about Hilandar brings<br />

back from memory the story of the golden<br />

age of Serbian medieval state, the story of<br />

great kings and emperors of the sacrosanct<br />

Nemanjić dynasty. Interestingly, the abbot<br />

says, almost nothing remained of the courts<br />

these powerful ruler s, of everything they<br />

had built for their glory and comfort. Only<br />

pale and faint traces, everything was swallowed<br />

by time. And what they built for the<br />

glory of God is today is pride, pivot and sacred<br />

center of our nation. From Studenica<br />

and Žiča through the Patriarchate of Peć,<br />

Gračanica, Banjska, Virgin Ljeviška, Visoki<br />

Dečani, to Hilandar.<br />

Abbot Andrej reminds us about the miraculous<br />

vines of St. Simeon Mirotocivi,<br />

one of the great miracles of Hilandar and<br />

blessings given to Serbian people.<br />

– We know, before the transfer of his<br />

relics from Hilandar to Serbia, Saint Simeon<br />

appeared to be one monk and said: “I<br />

am to go to Serbia, but a vines will grow<br />

from my grave. While it is green and fertile,<br />

the grace of God will rest on people”.<br />

Indeed, vines grew from the stone, which<br />

has been bearing fruit for eight hundred<br />

years. Every autumn, the grapes are<br />

picked. It is not particularly cared about,<br />

just dried and given to couples who do<br />

not have children. There are numerous<br />

cases of people who had children thanks<br />

to the miraculous vines of St. Simeon<br />

Mirotocivi. I personally witnessed that<br />

seven or eight families who came to us<br />

were blessed with children thanks to the<br />

vines of St Simeon – Father Andrej speaks<br />

with joy. – There is a well-known medieval<br />

example when a Turk came asking<br />

the Hilandar brotherhood asking for help,<br />

because he had no children. When he had<br />

a son, he returned to Hilandar and donated<br />

large estates to the monastery. Today,<br />

30 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


Kakovo monastery is located on that land,<br />

another appendage of Hilandar.<br />

Among the Orthodox in many countries,<br />

the monks in Slanci known as an<br />

earnest and effective when preying before<br />

Christ. Their prayers, as witnessed by<br />

many, have brought many wonders. They<br />

have been tirelessly gathering the people,<br />

helping the poor and feeding the hungry.<br />

As a true Hilandar appendage, with the<br />

blessing of the icon of the Three-Handed<br />

Virgin (who wept in 1989), they take care<br />

of the spiritual rebirth of their people.<br />

After the liturgy of this festive Sunday,<br />

the St-Patron’s Day wheat was consecrated<br />

and a cake was cut in honor of St. Nicholas.<br />

The sacred assembly continued at the dining<br />

table. s<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

31


E N C O U N T E R S<br />

32 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


SEVENTH “ŠTRAPARIJADA” IN RUMA AND ITS ECHOES<br />

All<br />

Horsepower<br />

“Horses and turkeys are always in fashion”, the witty people of Srem would say. “And logs have<br />

been are in power here for decades” In Bosnia, horses pulling logs are led by “štrapari”. That is how<br />

they call them. It requires strength, skill and practice. When you make a competition in that,<br />

you get “Štraparijada”. Many stories wove around it, by themselves, and many people gather.<br />

And if someone would also invite tambura players...<br />

By: Katarina Filipović<br />

Contemporary agriculture has long<br />

been dominated by machines, various<br />

ones. Working horses, which<br />

were once used to work the land, today<br />

seem to serve only for events. We could<br />

see them again this year at “Štraparijada” in<br />

Ruma, the seventh one, supported by the<br />

municipal cultural fund.<br />

The image of Serbian villages in the recent<br />

past, not further than half a century,<br />

was quite different. Towing horses were<br />

“the main drive and all the machinery”. The<br />

farmers did not have to follow the municipal,<br />

provincial and national competitions<br />

for subsidizing fuel and other things. They<br />

were, literally, “left to their own devices”.<br />

Those who had better horses were better<br />

off. Today we know how much money it<br />

could be saved like this, and the extent in<br />

which it was environmentally friendlier...<br />

Mile Đokanović, a newcomer from Srebrenica,<br />

is telling us that he founded the<br />

event “Štraparijada” in Ruma, modeled after<br />

the one from Drinić, which he saw in<br />

2006. And the first such event was organized<br />

in Bosnia, he says, due to a wager.<br />

– Before my folks from the Republic<br />

of Srpska founded this competition, a lot<br />

of time passed – says Đokanović. – Everybody<br />

claimed that they had the strongest<br />

horse. People placed bets and it was<br />

decided that three lambs and three pigs<br />

Horses and logs<br />

Photo:<br />

Relјa Popović<br />

In western Bosnia, people who are managing horses who are<br />

pulling logs are called “štrapari”. In eastern Bosnia they are called<br />

“furmani”, in Croatia “šlajseri”, in Srem “coachmen”. And they do the<br />

same work, explains Mile Đokanović, organizer of “Štraparijada”<br />

in Ruma at his suggestion, and with his enthusiasm.<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

33


E N C O U N T E R S<br />

We Also Have a Racing Horse<br />

Horse is God’s gift to man, says an Arab proverb. The Cheyenne<br />

considered their mustangs sacred animals, and in 1971 the<br />

US Congress declared the Mustang as the historical symbol of<br />

the Wild West. Mustang embodies the beauty, speed, grace and<br />

intractability. Hence it is used as a metaphor in the automotive<br />

industry. The seventh “Štraparijada” in Ruma showed that – still,<br />

after all – we also have a racing horse.<br />

would be the stake. The prize fund was<br />

established before the official entry of the<br />

meadow. After the victory of Mirko Garov<br />

in Drinić, in 2006, they came to the<br />

conclusion that all this could not be left<br />

with a few contestant who placed a bet.<br />

And so, after coming to Srem, I organized<br />

„“Štraparijada” for the first time in 2010.<br />

Now, when it is held for the seventh time,<br />

we got people from Kraljevo, Kragujevac,<br />

Sjenica, Novi Pazar, Lučani, Ivanjica,<br />

Požega, Valjevo, Loznica, Banja Koviljača,<br />

Pavlovci, Žarkovac. Although in Srpska<br />

they have their own “Štraparijada”, although<br />

there is aggravating circumstance<br />

on the form of border rules on certificates<br />

of horses when entering Serbia, the competitors<br />

from the other side of the Drina<br />

arrived again this time.<br />

EVERYBODY IS PRAISING<br />

THEIR OWN HORSES<br />

This year, “Štraparijada” was opened<br />

by Stevica Kovačević, a citizen of Ruma,<br />

who had been, from various offices in the<br />

municipality, supporting this event. At the<br />

competition, the horses of Milinko Bugarin<br />

from Banja Koviljača performed the<br />

best, then those of Braca Borojević from<br />

Pavlovac, and Žarko Nikolić from Loznica.<br />

Their horses were the best in heavyweight<br />

category, in pairs.<br />

– Horses must have wide legs and be<br />

selected – explains Mile Đokanović. – Not<br />

every horse can handle it, but those that<br />

are longer, heavier and bigger. Such horses<br />

were once used to work the land in Srem,<br />

and today the horses are “out of work”.<br />

They also seem to have joined the “transitional<br />

losers”.<br />

All owners, of course, speak elaborately<br />

about their horses. Just like in the poem of<br />

Jovan Jovanović Zmaj “the Gypsy praises<br />

his horse”. But one also has to show this,<br />

confirm it. The seventh “Štraparijada” in<br />

Ruma was well attended, despite the frivolousness<br />

of this rainy May, which at times<br />

revived painful memories of 2014, the year<br />

of great floods.<br />

– I know, this is the 21 st century, and<br />

working with horses is a matter of the past.<br />

Still, many people still hold horses, some<br />

out of love, others for a necessity in – says<br />

Đokanović. – I also used to do a lot of work<br />

by using horse-drawn cart. Who knows,<br />

maybe the horses come into the spotlight<br />

again. Small households, of which there<br />

are many in Serbia, can still perform some<br />

lighter agricultural work in a cost-effective<br />

manner by using horses. Transport of<br />

smaller loads, furrowing of corn on small<br />

parcels, especially in vegetable growing,<br />

and much more, can be done with horses,<br />

and “does not cost anything”. No registration,<br />

strict regulations, penalties, tax collectors...<br />

I am seriously thinking of buying a<br />

medium sized horse. s<br />

34 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

35


H O O K<br />

Фо то:<br />

Ар хи ва<br />

с а го в ор ни к а,<br />

Жељ ко Си но бад<br />

36 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


HOW SERBIAN TV SHOW “FISHING WORLD” HAS CONQUERED THE WORLD<br />

Return<br />

to Nature<br />

Author Radomir Krkić owes most of his gratitude to local TV sages who had abolished the show<br />

“Fishing World”. If they had not, he would have never knocked on the doors of big foreign TV houses.<br />

Today, his show is produced in English and broadcast in over sixty countries. It is characterized by<br />

simplicity and authenticity. Spontaneity. Nature without Photoshop, dominance of sincerity and talent<br />

over big budgets and technology. His viewers know that “water is the best grounding”<br />

By: Vladimir Janković<br />

In a debate about who is more noble,<br />

fishermen have proven to be ahead<br />

of the hunters. They argued that, unlike<br />

the hunters, they can always return<br />

their prey to nature, namely to the water,<br />

which is what they have been doing in the<br />

last few decades! We heard this recently<br />

from Radomir Krkić, author of the most<br />

watched documentaries on fishing. The<br />

reason for our interview and socializing<br />

was the recently signed agreement with<br />

the Turkish television “Jaban” from Istan-<br />

Salmon caught<br />

in Alaska<br />

Barracuda from<br />

Cuban waters<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

37


У Д И Ц А / У Д О Ч К А / H O O K<br />

Photo: Archive of<br />

the interlocutor,<br />

Želјko Sinobad<br />

bul on the Broadcasting Rights. While Serbian<br />

TV stations are purchasing the cheesy<br />

heartbreaking Turkish TV series, Radomir<br />

returns the responds with a series of superb<br />

shows on “the most popular pastime<br />

of idlers”.<br />

Every self-respecting cynic would notice<br />

that chess, hunting and fishing are not really<br />

sports, although there are stories about<br />

them abeingre published in sports sections.<br />

– And they are not – Radomir confirmed<br />

reluctantly. – Chess is, for example,<br />

the return to logic, a hunting and fishing<br />

are return to nature, to what the man in<br />

this time is often missing, only they have<br />

assumed a competitive character. As some<br />

passionate fishermen would say, “water is<br />

the best grounding”, the strongest bond<br />

with nature.<br />

SWIMMING WITH PIRANHAS<br />

The first thing that caused confusion in<br />

this story, even doubt, was that provision<br />

on the ratings, because even the proven addicts<br />

to television programs were not able<br />

to erase the show Fishing World from their<br />

memory!<br />

– Unfortunately, in our counry it was<br />

only aired on the cable channel “Hunting<br />

38 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


and Fishing”, which broadcasts its program<br />

also in Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and<br />

Herzegovina, Montenegro and Macedonia<br />

– Krkić explained. – Ali But the show is<br />

now viewed in more than sixty countries!<br />

Suppose, via the Russian television, it is<br />

videwed in as many as twenty-six states.<br />

American broadcast network DMG airs it<br />

on five of its eight channels, and it is viewd<br />

by many, from Jamaica and Trinidad and<br />

Tobago to Kenya. These documentaries<br />

are also watched in Spain, Poland, Czech<br />

Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Bulgaria, Romania<br />

... to mention only a few. After all,<br />

these shows were originally made in the<br />

English language, and the official name of<br />

the series is actually Fishing World!<br />

Still, it all started in Serbian, almost<br />

quarter of a century ago.<br />

– As an average fisherman, neither better<br />

nor worse than others, I was a guest<br />

of Mića Nikolić on Television “Politika”, in<br />

his then popular TV show about fishing<br />

–Krkić remembers. – Thanks to this the<br />

idea was born, and I modeled for a year<br />

or two later with Dragiša Kovačević, then<br />

the sports editor of the editorial board of<br />

Television “Studio B”. For this television<br />

I recorded my first documentary, which<br />

was a novelty for them. Later I moved to<br />

the “BK TV”, because Perica Karić, the Editor-in-Chief,<br />

had a nose for these things.<br />

Thanks to Radoš Bajić, my countryman<br />

and friend, at the end of the last decade<br />

the show also appeared on the RTS, but,<br />

unfortunately, for a very short time. Due<br />

to the unfair treatment it was quickly<br />

abolished. I am grateful to them. Maybe<br />

I would have given up then, but I was encouraged<br />

by my friend Stuart Edmonson,<br />

an American from San Diego. He told<br />

me that the reports I was making were<br />

“truly remarkable”, and he introduced<br />

me to the American television network,<br />

which immediately accepted my project.<br />

Although they knew that I was a Serb,<br />

therefore belonged to the libeled nation<br />

there, the whole deal was concluded and<br />

agreed, orally. And when, was four years<br />

ago, I signed a contract with the Russian<br />

“Stream TV”, their manager solemnly declared<br />

that he was signing a contract with<br />

a Serb with a particular pleasure, and paid<br />

the fee in advance.<br />

He wonders how someone on the Serbian<br />

TV can says that fishing is no longer<br />

“in trend” and decide to give time to, for<br />

example, newly composed folk music.<br />

– It is impossible. People have been<br />

fishing since time immemorial, and it will<br />

last for as long as human civilization lasts.<br />

The most abundant food resources for the<br />

growing population of the planet are located<br />

exactly in the water: in rivers, lakes,<br />

seas and oceans. In the poorest of coun-<br />

Leisure<br />

Alligator-fish<br />

caught in Texas<br />

Yes, they say that fishing is the “favorite pastime of idlers”. Two<br />

hundred thousand registered fishermen in this little Serbia may<br />

testify to this, along with as many unregistered.<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

39


H O O K<br />

Halibut caught<br />

in Alaska<br />

Radomir Krkić<br />

(in the middle) with<br />

Bora Đorđević and<br />

Eddy Grant during<br />

fishing in Grocka,<br />

near Belgrade<br />

tries, fish and seafood are today virtually<br />

the only source of protein.<br />

DOCUMENTARIES<br />

WITHOUT MAKE-UP<br />

Since he has completely surrendered<br />

himself to this pleasure, he has made<br />

about sixty reportages, which may be misleading.<br />

– Because of them I have traveled<br />

around the world and fished a lot – Krkić<br />

smiles. – And I was fishing in Nicaragua,<br />

Costa Rica, Guyana, Barbados, Cuba,<br />

Mexico, St. Louis, Florida, Alaska, Texas,<br />

Idaho, Oman, Malaysia, Thailand and<br />

even ... in Romania! When they make<br />

such documentariees for major television<br />

and production companies, the teams<br />

spend, at the average, at least ninety thousand<br />

dollars for one, and I would probably<br />

make ten with so much money. But<br />

not because I am frugal, but because I<br />

usually travel only with the cameraman.<br />

On the other hand, this little money at my<br />

Key<br />

Serbian television broadcasters with national frequency often<br />

present in public the ratings of their shows, where they always<br />

choose the key by which they would present themselves as champions.<br />

But, Krkić points out, they never include in that race the<br />

specialized programs, such as “Discovery”, “History” and “Animal<br />

Planet”, because they understand how they would score in such<br />

a race.<br />

disposal does not allow me to make subsequent<br />

tinkering, and so my documentaries<br />

are authentic, true documentaries,<br />

and every viewer can recognize this unmistakably,<br />

even if they are not fishermen.<br />

As an illustration, he told us an anecdote<br />

about the great mistake made by the<br />

team of a world-renowned program. They<br />

were so wrapped up in “directing” that<br />

they missed that the fisherman who was<br />

wrestling with a fish, in three connected<br />

shots, each time appeared in different<br />

clothes and with a different fishing rod.<br />

Experienced guides told Krkić that many<br />

crews often purchase their “good catch” at<br />

fish markets.<br />

– I was almost slandered for forgery<br />

when once I showed them a photo with a<br />

fish-alligator I caught in Texas – says Radomir.<br />

- That fish really had a head irresistibly<br />

resembling that of an alligator, and<br />

was thus named after it, and those who do<br />

not know think that it was photoshoped.<br />

He admits that he also sees his work as<br />

a mission.<br />

– I have always wanted to show by example<br />

to young people that there are no<br />

obstacles to present their work to someone<br />

abroad. For what is wise and good,<br />

there are no obstacles. Perhaps the most<br />

interesting illustration of my idea was<br />

that four years ago I managed to drag Eddie<br />

Grant and Bora Čorba for fishing in<br />

Grocka.<br />

True Serbian story... s<br />

40 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

41


L I G H T H O U S E S<br />

ST. SAVA IN THE RUSSIAN IMPERIAL CHRONICLE (3)<br />

Serbian<br />

Miracle-Workers<br />

in Kremlin<br />

Photo: Aleksandar<br />

Ćosić and “National<br />

Review” Archive<br />

42 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


Immediately after the coronation, Ivan IV the Mighty continued<br />

the construction of imperial Kremlin. The Cathedral of Archangel<br />

Michael was painted as a congregation of ancestors, on whose behalf<br />

he was ruling. All his precursors, Russian rulers, are there, in glory<br />

and vestment. Only four painted people are not Russian, only two are<br />

in monastic, not imperial robes: St. Sava and St. Simeon, “Serbian<br />

miracle-workers”. The remaining two non-Russians: Byzantine emperor<br />

Michael VIII Palaiologos and Holy Prince Lazar of Serbia. Only one<br />

person in the Cathedral was painted twice: St. Sava of Serbia<br />

By: Milovan Vitezović<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

43


L I G H T H O U S E S<br />

A view of<br />

the Archangel<br />

congregation (the<br />

temple in the<br />

middle) from the<br />

Moscow River<br />

After Ivan IV reached legal age, the<br />

Grand Muscovite Principality<br />

ceased to exist and Imperial Russia<br />

appeared. He, following vows, wanted<br />

an empire without delay (his grandfather<br />

and father delayed it). However, he did not<br />

proclaim it himself.<br />

The decision on creating an empire<br />

was an agreement on symphony – compliance<br />

of the terrene and spiritual authority.<br />

Moscow (Russian Empire – Russia), as the<br />

Third Rome, is based on the compliance<br />

on which Constantinople (Byzantine Empire<br />

– Byzantium), as the Orthodox Empire,<br />

lasted for one millennium. The decision<br />

on creating the Russian Empire and<br />

coronation of Ivan IV as first emperor was<br />

brought by the supreme state authorities<br />

of the Grand Muscovite Principality, led<br />

by, besides the Grand Prince, Princess Ana<br />

Glinskaya and the Synod of Bishops of the<br />

Russian Orthodox Church with Muscovite<br />

Metropolitan Makarije as the first among<br />

the equal. So the decision was made that<br />

Ivan IV shall become the first Anointed<br />

One on the Russian throne.<br />

Historians of this époque indicate several<br />

versions of the description of Ivan’s<br />

coronation ceremony, which took place on<br />

January 16, 1547 in Moscow. All versions<br />

emphasize that there was a sacred anointment<br />

ritual, that the emperor was thereby<br />

introduced into the “Autocracy of Spirit”<br />

and thus became the heir of Byzantine emperors,<br />

while Moscow became the Third<br />

Rome, capital of the great Christian Orthodox<br />

empire. After the anointment, he was<br />

crowned with Monomah’s crown. As the<br />

legend goes, that crown was a gift of the XI<br />

century Byzantine emperor Constantine<br />

IX (army commander who became emperor<br />

by marrying Empress Zoja, niece of<br />

Basil the Great “the Bulgar-Slayer”) to his<br />

grandson, the Grand Kiev Prince Vladimir<br />

Monomakh (son of Prince Vsevolod and<br />

imperial daughter Anastasia, first Byzantine<br />

princess married to a pagan). There<br />

is also an apocryphal legend, preserved<br />

among both Serbs and Russians, without<br />

any historical basis, that Dušan’s imperial<br />

crown was secretly taken from the, again<br />

secret, Dečani treasury to Russia for the<br />

coronation of Ivan, and returned afterwards.<br />

Just like Emperor Dušan, the first emperor<br />

in his dynasty famous by his folk<br />

name Emperor Dušan the Great, Emperor<br />

Ivan IV was famous as Ivan the Terrible<br />

(Horribly, Mighty, Magnificent).<br />

There is no emperor in imperial dignity<br />

without an empress and courtiers. Along<br />

with the coronation, Ivan IV, among a thousand<br />

daughters from his Principality’s aristocratic<br />

families, chose an empress to select<br />

courtiers. He chose Anastasia, daughter of<br />

aristocrat Roman. With this choice, making<br />

Roman the father-in-law of the empire,<br />

he attracted the historical attention of the<br />

Empire to this aristocratic family. From it,<br />

after the Rurikovich dynasty, with him as<br />

its climax – its crown, a new Romanov dynasty<br />

will grow.<br />

LAWS, ARMY, RELIGION, CULTURE<br />

After achieving the natural (by the nature<br />

of dominion) and centuries-long aspiration<br />

of the great princely dynasty of<br />

Rurikovich, mostly expressed and most<br />

worked for by his grandfather and father,<br />

Emperor Ivan IV continued developing<br />

what his mother, princess Elena Vasilevna,<br />

began and intended to continue.<br />

As an erudite ruler, determined and pious,<br />

although still too young, with a difficult<br />

princely experience, he wanted a powerful<br />

empire, using the benefits of symphony,<br />

based on laws (as the only way to restrain,<br />

to a certain extent, and obligate the boyars,<br />

as well as to bind the serfs to the land), on<br />

a standing army (for guarding and keeping<br />

the western and north-western borders, for<br />

expanding and preserving the empire, for<br />

winning and conquering the Kazan and<br />

Astrakhan khanate and incorporating Siberia<br />

with the empire), on faith as a state<br />

ideology (on votive agreements with representatives<br />

of the Lord, who will be given<br />

power and whom his power will be given<br />

from God), and on culture (to educate the<br />

country and establish connections with the<br />

world by bringing masons and artists and<br />

purchasing the first printing shop, which<br />

will create testimonies for future centuries,<br />

such as the unique Letopisnyi Litsevoi Svod<br />

/Personal Chronicle Compilation/).<br />

Almost everything he had done was in<br />

that name and for that purpose, especially<br />

in the so-called golden age of his dominion,<br />

the time of expansion and establishing<br />

the empire on the first printed book Kormchaia<br />

Book, investing his entire energy into<br />

such endeavors, while quieting his unrestrained<br />

and often moody character, which<br />

44 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

45


L I G H T H O U S E S<br />

In the Archangel<br />

congregation:<br />

Fresco Saint Sava<br />

and Saint Simeon,<br />

Serbian miraclemakers<br />

Saint Sava of<br />

Serbia, an altar<br />

fresco<br />

Holy Prince Lazar<br />

he, entirely dedicated to Russia, showed<br />

in creating and defending autocracy, after<br />

which, as some assume, he was given the<br />

name – the Terrible (Horrible, Great, Magnificent).<br />

He established the imperial assembly,<br />

representing all parts of the empire, with<br />

legislative authorities, corresponding to<br />

today’s parliament, then called duma and<br />

rada, as well as the imperial council, with<br />

which he agreed to a consultancy-like division<br />

of dominion.<br />

The era of Ivan IV was a time of creating<br />

and strengthening the empire, which lasted<br />

almost half a millennium after him. In his<br />

clear vision, he saw Russia and created it as<br />

such, as a new, first Orthodox Christian empire<br />

in the world, but not out of the world.<br />

He cared about the state of Orthodox Christianity,<br />

supported Orthodox monasteries in<br />

enslaved Serbian lands, in Bulgaria, Greece<br />

Under the Protection of St. Sava<br />

The title “Serbian miracle-workers” indicates that Ivan IV, already<br />

as a prince, at a time he considered humiliating, put himself<br />

under the protection of St. Sava, and believed that he survived<br />

the bad times due to his miracles. Thus such a title is a form of<br />

great imperial gratitude. Another fresco of St. Sava also indicates<br />

gratitude to this miracle-working saint (the only one presented<br />

with two frescoes in this edifice), on top of the northern altar pillar.<br />

Two frescoes of St. Sava in the most colossal monument of his<br />

dynasty’s glory are truly great imperial honors.<br />

and Mt. Athos. After learning from Chilandar<br />

monks about the difficult situation in<br />

the monastic state on Mt. Athos, he wrote<br />

to Turkish sultan Suleiman the Magnificent.<br />

He wanted to establish closer connections<br />

with the English kingdom, anticipating an<br />

emerging empire. The aspiration was mutual,<br />

so the English discovered the northern<br />

sea route in 1<strong>55</strong>4 and founded the Muscovite<br />

Company in London.<br />

HOLY LAND DEEDS ON THE EMPIRE<br />

After eliminating the aspirations of<br />

the boyars towards a state of independent<br />

principalities, Russia became a complete<br />

empire. In his conflicts with the boyars,<br />

Ivan IV showed an imperial character,<br />

strong will and iron hand. Boyars were<br />

prone to all kinds of fights, both public and<br />

secret. Inclined to all means they could use<br />

for achieving any objective, from public<br />

rebellions, mostly secret unions with enemies<br />

of the empire, public betrayals and<br />

conspiracies, poisoning closest members of<br />

the imperial family (mother, wife, son), to<br />

big intrigues and slanders they proclaimed<br />

lasting historical facts, and denying historical<br />

successes. While he was entirely dedicated<br />

to raising the empire, Ivan IV was a<br />

tragic personality in his personal self-sacrifice<br />

and never anticipated he would become<br />

a great victim of subsequent histories<br />

46 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


(the boyar histories will represent his time<br />

as dark and fatal, suitable for histories of<br />

the new Romanov dynasty, whose emperors<br />

wanted everything to start from them).<br />

The biggest world opponent to the empire<br />

of Ivan IV, besides the constant threat<br />

of Suleiman the Magnificent’s Turkey, was<br />

cesaropapism. The Holy See was against<br />

Constantinople, as the second Rome,<br />

against which it was helpless until the appearance<br />

of the Latin empire, which it also<br />

did not succeed in preserving. Only after<br />

the fall of Constantinople and its conquering<br />

by the Ottomans, it sharply opposed<br />

the ascension of Moscow into Third<br />

Rome, the creation of the Russian Empire<br />

of Ivan IV, especially because it had powerful<br />

Catholic kingdoms near the Russian<br />

borders: Poland, Sweden and Livonia in the<br />

Baltic, the state of Teutonian knights. (One<br />

of the different interpretations how Ivan<br />

IV was named the Terrible is the assumption<br />

about the German origin of the nickname.<br />

It says that the Teutonian knights,<br />

great opponents of Emperor Ivan, named<br />

him Gross in German, which in Russian<br />

turned into “Grozni” (Terrible).<br />

Immediately after the coronation, Ivan<br />

IV continued the construction of imperial<br />

Kremlin, commenced at the time of the<br />

boyar “empire”, now with special imperial<br />

care and attention, in order to make Kremlin<br />

the face of the empire. So he began the<br />

painting of the Cathedral of Archangel Michael,<br />

as a church of ancestors, on whose<br />

behalf he was ruling, as a church of the<br />

Russian state and historical magnificence<br />

– as a land deed on the empire. That is<br />

why all previous tsars, all previous Russian<br />

rulers, were presented in the nave of this<br />

church, in full glory and robes.<br />

However, according to his will, not only<br />

Russian rulers were presented in the nave.<br />

Already from the entrance, first seen by everyone<br />

entering the church, on the northern<br />

supporting pillar, the visitor’s attention<br />

is caught by a fresco painting not in imperial<br />

glory, but in a monastic robe. The fresco<br />

represents Mt. Athos monks St. Sava and<br />

St. Simeon, “Serbian miracle-workers”. A bit<br />

further, in different places of honor, noticeable<br />

are frescoes of another two, non-Rus-<br />

Bowing to Sava’s Cross<br />

Illustrations<br />

from the<br />

“Chronicle Vault”:<br />

Byzantine Emperor<br />

Alexius Angel<br />

gives to St. Sava<br />

and St. Simeon<br />

the Charter of<br />

Hilandar as<br />

an imperial<br />

monastery<br />

Nemanja’s people<br />

arrive on the<br />

Mount Athos and<br />

find the young<br />

prince Rastko<br />

A story told in Chilandar for centuries testifies about how<br />

much Ivan IV respected St. Sava. It says that the monks, during<br />

one of the numerous missions, took the emperor one of their<br />

greatest relics as a gift – Sava’s cross, which St. Sava received<br />

from Byzantine Emperor Jovan Vatats, when he got the title of<br />

archpriest, which was, according to tradition, made of wood from<br />

Christ’s cross. Ivan IV took the cross enthralled and filled with piousness.<br />

He bowed several times to the Saint’s cross and kissed it.<br />

Shaken, he said to the Chilandar monks: “I am endlessly thankful<br />

to you for bringing it to me, to bow to it and kiss it. Now, take it<br />

back where you brought it from, because it only belongs there.”<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

47


L I G H T H O U S E S<br />

48 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


sian rulers. They are frescoes of Byzantine<br />

emperor Michael VIII Palaiologos (the<br />

emperor who liberated Constantinople<br />

in 1261 and, by abolishing the Latin empire,<br />

returned its old glory into Orthodox<br />

splendor) and Holy Prince Lazar of Serbia.<br />

THE LIFE OF SAVA IN 250 PICTURES<br />

Russian historians, in their studies<br />

about the Cathedral of Archangel Michael<br />

and the frescoes in this Pantheon<br />

of Russian history, determined that “Ivan<br />

the Terrible had a crucial role in selecting<br />

eminent people and iconographic wholes”.<br />

So, the emperor himself decided how<br />

to emphasize, as well and as noticeable as<br />

possible, the dynastic connections of his<br />

palace, as well as his personal connections,<br />

with Greek (Byzantine) and Serbian dynasties,<br />

by painting their forefathers Nemanja<br />

– Nemanjić dynasty, Michael VIII –<br />

the Palaiologos, and Lazar – Lazarević and<br />

Branković. It is clear that the emperor was<br />

especially attentive regarding the presentation<br />

of Nemanja as St. Simeon together<br />

with St. Sava, who has priority in the<br />

presentation, the only ones not in terrene<br />

imperial robes. The attention was also emphasized<br />

in their unusual title – Serbian<br />

miracle-workers.<br />

This indicates that the same honor, not<br />

only with the approval of the emperor, but<br />

according to his wish, was given to the Hagiography<br />

of St. Sava, the book on which<br />

the young prince’s education was based<br />

on, thus it was illustrated with so much<br />

detail and in such volume, and embedded<br />

in the unique, comprehensive history<br />

made for him – the monumental Letopisnyi<br />

Litsevoi Svod. The fourth, such entitled<br />

Laptevsky volume of the Letopisnyi Svod,<br />

on sheets numbered <strong>55</strong>1 to 611, on more<br />

than 100 pages, besides the genealogy of<br />

the Nemanjić dynasty, according to Teodosije’s<br />

Hagiography of St. Sava, tells and<br />

pictures the life of this Serbian saint. It was<br />

told in reduced and dignified sentences,<br />

intoned like sermon tributes. It includes<br />

all facts of the original Teodosije’s hagiography,<br />

some with the original mistakes of<br />

the biographer, but without bigger historical<br />

deviations.<br />

Pictures, although miniatures, are far<br />

more “eloquent”. Each picture includes<br />

two, three or even four episodes from<br />

Sava’s life, indicated by a short text. The<br />

number of pictured<br />

scenes, more than<br />

250 of them, makes<br />

the miniatures fuller<br />

and the illustrated<br />

hagiography of St.<br />

Sava more sublime.<br />

Such a high number<br />

of scenes were dictated<br />

by artistic expression,<br />

“requesting”<br />

consistent repetition<br />

of characters and also<br />

consistent schematic<br />

presentation of landscapes<br />

and architecture.<br />

The illuminations<br />

were done in<br />

aquarelle technique<br />

directly on paper (the<br />

paper was of imperial<br />

quality, which provided imperial durability<br />

of the work).<br />

The painted atmospheres from Sava’s<br />

terrene and monastic life and his spiritual<br />

deeds from Ras to Mt. Athos, the atmospheres<br />

of his monasteries Studenica, Chilandar,<br />

Žiča, Mileševa, the atmospheres of<br />

the cities of his audiences: Thessaloniki,<br />

Constantinople, Jerusalem, Cairo, Trnovo,<br />

the atmospheres of his pilgrimages to holy<br />

places, all have a Russian appearance and<br />

Russian character.<br />

He was honored in them during his<br />

lifetime. A miraculous feeling spreads<br />

from these warm-colored pictures and<br />

their narrative ardor, a feeling that this is<br />

“a hagiography of a saint as much as the<br />

spirit of the époque and country they<br />

were created in”.<br />

The history of Russian literature calls<br />

Letopisnyi Svod an imperial anthology,<br />

an imperial chronicle, and most often an<br />

imperial book, which is the name of the<br />

tenth volume “Царственная кннига”,<br />

which it indeed is, both for its idea and its<br />

achievement.<br />

As much as the Letopisnyi Svod, an<br />

exciting Russian capital work of world<br />

history and history of art, is worth of admiration,<br />

none the less worth is this separated<br />

whole dedicated to Serbs and their<br />

saint, who is their first signature and the<br />

one they were named after, as well as his<br />

illustrated hagiography of added pictures<br />

of the crucial event in Serbian history, the<br />

Battle of Kosovo. <br />

From the<br />

“Chronicle Vault”:<br />

Transfer if the relics<br />

of St. Simeon from<br />

the Mount Athos to<br />

Serbia<br />

A view of<br />

the Saint Basil’s<br />

Cathedral from the<br />

edge of Red Square<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

49


I N S I G N I A<br />

A SHORT HERALDIC HISTORY OF BELGRADE<br />

Under<br />

the Eagle’s Shield<br />

Golden seal from the times of Holy Despot Stefan is the oldest surviving heraldic trace of<br />

the coat of arms of the Serbian capital. The oldest complete image of the coat of arms is in the list<br />

of coat of arms from 1<strong>55</strong>5. Under the Turkish occupation, Belgrade had no coats of arms.<br />

Austrians and Hungarians brought and took away their own. The first clear regulation on the<br />

coat of arms of Belgrade is from 1914, but it was implemented only in 1931. Today’s coats of<br />

arms of Belgrade are modified version of that solution<br />

50 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.<br />

By: Vladimir Matevski


The first heraldic insignia of Belgrade<br />

are mentioned by the history at the<br />

time of Despot Stefan Lazarević, who<br />

received the city in 1403 from Sigismund of<br />

Luxemburg, king of Hungary. A testimony of<br />

the golden seal of the city was given by Constantine<br />

the Philosopher in his most famous<br />

work The Life of Despot Stefan Lazarević: “...<br />

And he (Despot) gave them the golden seal,<br />

which had the image of the City, and for those<br />

who want to make any kind of purchase in<br />

any part, would provide the book with the<br />

seal proving he is a resident of that city, so<br />

would never have to pay customs or toll”.<br />

If we take the phrase “had the image of<br />

the City” literally – that it is the panoramic<br />

view of the City walls, we come to the reconstruction<br />

of the seal created by prof. Dr. Milos<br />

Ćirić, well-known Serbian graphic artist. We<br />

should not forget that Belgrade had previously<br />

been in the territory of Hungary, where<br />

the oats of arms of settlements appear during<br />

the 18 th century, so it is not impossible that the<br />

city had previously had such insignia.<br />

After the death of Despot Stefan in 1427,<br />

Belgrade was, under the contract, returned to<br />

the Hungarians.<br />

The earliest known image of Belgrade coat<br />

of arms is in Fugger’s Mirror of Honor from<br />

1<strong>55</strong>5. In this work, which contains more than<br />

30,000 coats of arms, and was named after the<br />

Fugger family, the famous family of merchants<br />

and bankers, and later a family of a prince, the<br />

coat of arms of Belgrade is presented with a<br />

tower between two Patriarchate ( double)<br />

crosses and with two beams that symbolize<br />

two rivers, the Sava and the Danube. The earliest<br />

information about this coat of arms was<br />

presented by great Aleksa Ivić who says about<br />

it: “This coat of arms is a heraldic combination<br />

of coat of arms of the old and new Hungarian<br />

states with a tower that represents the<br />

city of Belgrade.”<br />

With minor changes, mainly in the form of a<br />

shield, this coat of arms survived until Belgrade<br />

fell into Turkish hands in 1521 (today it used by<br />

Stari Grad, as the oldest Belgrade municipality).<br />

It is well-known that for a long time the Ottomans<br />

did not recognize coats of arms as part of<br />

the national and state heritage, and with their<br />

arrival the heraldic history of Belgrade was interrupted<br />

for the next two centuries.<br />

IN THE SHADOW<br />

OF FOREIGN WINGS<br />

In the turbulent history of the Serbian<br />

capital, the year 1717 was a new milestone,<br />

when the Turks took over the city from the<br />

Austrians. The Austrian military government<br />

then introduced a new coat of arms, featuring<br />

three mosques with the imperial black<br />

double-headed eagle flying over its minarets.<br />

There is also the slogan: “Sub umbra alarum<br />

tuarum” (“In the shadow of your wings”,<br />

Psalm of David, 17/8). In 1910, in the Vienna<br />

archive, Aleksa Ivić discovered the heraldic<br />

description of that coat of arms from 1721,<br />

and the appended stamp. The circular inscription<br />

on the seal was: “Gross insigl. dor Statt<br />

Belgrad in Servien 1721.”<br />

In 1724, the imperial governor in Belgrade<br />

Aleksandar Wuerttemberg filed to the Viennese<br />

court working council two proposals for<br />

The large<br />

coat of arms<br />

of Belgrade<br />

Medium<br />

and small<br />

coat of arms<br />

of Belgrade<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

51


I N S I G N I A<br />

the coat of arms. One was the already mentioned<br />

heraldic seal, and the other one was<br />

“the ancient coat of arms of the town”. “The<br />

ancient coat of arms of the town”, as interpreted<br />

by Đorđe Stratimirović, was actually<br />

is based on a coin depicting a Roman soldier<br />

holding hands on the hips of a bull and<br />

a horse. Above everything is the inscription<br />

Taurunum, i.e. Zemun. The second proposal<br />

was not approved, and the one with three<br />

mosques was accepted, with the removal of<br />

the slogan “Sub umbra alarum tuarum” and<br />

replacement of the circular inscription on<br />

the stamp with the text: “Alba Graeca Recuperata<br />

Anno MDCCHVII”.<br />

In accordance with the Belgrade Peace<br />

Treaty from 1739, the Turks return to the<br />

city, and the issue of the coat of arms is sidelined<br />

again.<br />

The beginning of the 19 th century brings<br />

new winds to the Balkans. Serbia, first the<br />

one of Karađorđe, then the one of Miloš, adopted<br />

all European attributes of statehood,<br />

including, of course, and the state insignia.<br />

With the adoption of the constitution of Sretenje<br />

in 1835, Serbia finally received its coat<br />

of arms and flag. A coat of arms of Belgrade<br />

was not even contemplated then because the<br />

municipal authorities had considered themselves<br />

part of the state administration and<br />

used state symbols in their work. (A good<br />

example is the stamp of the Belgrade magistrate<br />

from 1807). That is why, in the coming<br />

decades, Belgrade, along with Athens, was<br />

one of the few European capitals that did not<br />

have its own coat of arms.<br />

On the occasion of the 300 th anniversary<br />

of the Turkish burning of the relics of Saint<br />

Sava in Belgrade, in 1895 Đorđe Stratimirović<br />

publicly proposed to include the first archbishop<br />

of the Serbian Orthodox Church on<br />

the coat of arms of the Serbian capital:<br />

“The coat of arms, as we imagine it in<br />

heraldry, would consist of a simple shield<br />

with vertical image of St. Sava, according to<br />

the standards of painting from our ancient<br />

monasteries. The field of the shield is blue,<br />

the saint in gold attire, standing at the gold<br />

ambo; in the top corners of the shield there<br />

is inscription in old-fashioned gold lettering:<br />

Saint Sava; the top of the shield is the golden<br />

crown of the city.”<br />

Although this idea did not meet with approval,<br />

it is significant in the heraldic history<br />

of Belgrade as the first proposal of a<br />

Serb for the image of the coat of arms of<br />

52 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


the Serbian capital. All previous ones were<br />

made by foreign invaders.<br />

THE FIRST LOCAL COAT OF ARMS<br />

In the draft Law on Municipalities from<br />

1914, in Article 111, for the first time we find<br />

a description of how a coat of arms of Belgrade<br />

should look like:<br />

“The Belgrade Municipality has its own<br />

coat of arms. It consists of two sections: the<br />

lower covering 2/5 and the upper covering<br />

3/5 of the entire coat of arms. The lower part<br />

ends in a spike. In the lower part of the walls<br />

of Roman castle of Singidunum, and at its<br />

foot of his a Roman ship on the river (trireme),<br />

with Roman sails. In the upper field,<br />

Nebojša Tower in the lower town, with its<br />

shape as it was in the Middle Ages, with twoheaded<br />

white eagle without a crown, from<br />

which beams of light radiate on all sides.”<br />

The beginning of the Great War prevented<br />

Belgrade from getting its coat of arms.<br />

The competition for the coat of arms was<br />

announced only in 1931. It was preceded<br />

by a public debate, which also included the<br />

Stratimirović’s proposal that coat of arms<br />

of Belgrade should feature Saint Sava. Great<br />

Serbian painter Uroš Predić objected:<br />

“...And it was proposed for the coat of<br />

arms of Belgrade to display an image of Saint<br />

Sava. Brought up in the spirit of our wise<br />

and humble high priest and educator, I can<br />

almost hear how he himself protests against<br />

it, not to use his holy face and body, where it<br />

is not appropriate. He is not a patron of Belgrade,<br />

but patron of schools, education and<br />

the Serbian Orthodox Church. (...)And I say<br />

after all this: the glory to the Saint Sava! The<br />

glory to Belgrade!”<br />

Milan Nešić, President of the Belgrade<br />

municipality, set up an Expert Committee<br />

for the coat of arms of the city, which was<br />

supposed to decide on the propositions of<br />

the competition. The committee members<br />

were Beta Vukanović, Uroš Predić, Ilija<br />

Šobajić, Dragi Stojanović, Bogdan Popović,<br />

Milan Nikolajević, Stanoje Stanojević, Aleksa<br />

Ivić, Đorđe Čarapić (who drew sketches<br />

during the debates at the Committee), Vladimir<br />

Ćorović and Nikola Vulić.<br />

The committee members did not take<br />

into account the old coats of arms of Belgrade,<br />

foreign and made by the enemy, but<br />

they focused on Belgrade getting a brand<br />

new coat of arms. A great desire of Milan<br />

Nešić, the Mayor of Belgrade, was to depict<br />

the suffering of Belgrade on the coat of arms,<br />

as well as its major role in the creation of the<br />

new state, Yugoslavia. Upon the proposal of<br />

the Committee, and with the accompanied<br />

sketch of the coat of arms made by the Secretary<br />

of the Office of the Royal Medals Đorđe<br />

Čarapić, the Court of the city municipality<br />

of Belgrade has announced an art competition<br />

for the best artistic solution of the coat<br />

of arms with the following elements: 1) the<br />

national colors, 2) the rivers as symbols of<br />

the primordial power of Belgrade, 3) Roman<br />

ship, trireme, as a symbol of antiquity of Belgrade,<br />

4) walls with the open gate: the lower<br />

part of the walls to represent the borough,<br />

the upper part to represent the town, and the<br />

open gate to represent free trade.<br />

“Land in the wedge of the coat of arms,<br />

between the rivers, and under the walls,<br />

should be red as a symbol of blood, eternal<br />

suffering of Belgrade; the rivers should be<br />

white (according to the heraldic laws); the<br />

walls of the town and the city are white as<br />

a symbol of the White City; sky is blue as a<br />

symbol of hope, faith in a better future. The<br />

coat of arms must take the form of a shield,<br />

ending in a spike at the.”<br />

EMBLEMS AND CONFUSIONS<br />

The assessment committee comprised of<br />

Stanoje Stanojević, Bogdan Popović, Branko<br />

Popović, Uroš Predić, Beta Vukanović,<br />

Živojin Lukić and one member of the Tribunal<br />

of Belgrade City Municipality. The<br />

proposal of the Belgrade painter Đorđe<br />

Andrejević Kun won among the fifty-six received<br />

entries. The second prize went to Vera<br />

Bojničić-Zamola, and the work of Demetrius<br />

Mordvinov received special recognition.<br />

The assessment committee also agreed<br />

to make the following changes to the winning<br />

proposal: 1) to add watch towers on the<br />

square stone in the same form as they are<br />

presented on the second Kun’s image; 2) to<br />

make a hole in the darkened area in the background<br />

of the gate to, so as to obtain an opening<br />

in the perspective; 3) to cut the horizontal<br />

line of the hill on which the city is standing<br />

starting from the edge of the walls, in order<br />

to better emphasize the position of the city.<br />

Medals<br />

Unveiling the<br />

Monument to<br />

Prince Mihailo, 6<br />

December 1882<br />

The city of Belgrade received four medals. These are: French<br />

Order of the Grand Cross of the Knight of the Legion of Honor<br />

(1920), Czechoslovakian War Cross (1925), Order of the Star of<br />

Karađorđe with swords of the 4 th degree (1939), Order of the National<br />

Hero (1974).<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

53


I N S I G N I A<br />

The coat<br />

of arms of<br />

Belgrade from<br />

the 16 th was<br />

included in<br />

today’s coat<br />

of arms of<br />

Belgrade<br />

municipality<br />

Stari grad<br />

Rejected<br />

proposals for<br />

the appearance<br />

of large and<br />

medium coat<br />

of arms of<br />

Belgrade<br />

The coat of arms with these changes was<br />

adopted by the Committee of the Belgrade<br />

municipality on 10 December 1931. It was<br />

confirmed five days later in the Decision of<br />

the Ministry of Interior.<br />

After World War II, namely in 1945, new<br />

difficulties began with Belgrade coat of arms.<br />

Without any formal decision, a red star was<br />

put on the coat of arms. The shield remained<br />

unchanged, probably because of the merits<br />

of Đorđe Andrejević Kun, who was one of<br />

the creators of the emblem of communist<br />

Yugoslavia.<br />

The statutes of Belgrade in the period<br />

from 1954 to 1964 mentioned the city emblem<br />

(instead of the word coat of arms) or<br />

do not make any references to the symbol<br />

of Belgrade. Only the Statute of 5 February<br />

1960, which was in force for less than four<br />

months, informs that Belgrade has a coat of<br />

arms. A new version of the coat of arms of<br />

Belgrade appeared in 1960. It is not entirely<br />

clear who the author was. Some experts say<br />

that, the changes on the coat of arms were<br />

produced, under the instructions of Đorđe<br />

Andrejević, by Belgrade painter and graphic<br />

artist Ivko Milojević. Thus, a new version of<br />

the coat of arms appeared, without the old<br />

one being previously formally withdrawn<br />

from use.<br />

In the early 1990’s there are new public<br />

debates on the coat of arms of Belgrade.<br />

Miloš Ćirić makes two proposals for<br />

a coat of arms and proposal for the flag of<br />

Belgrade. The first proposal is a redesigned<br />

version from 1960, and the second one is a<br />

completely new solution. Ćirić also points to<br />

the need for Belgrade to get its large (complete)<br />

coat of arms. He proposed to include a<br />

rampart crown above the shield, branches on<br />

the sides (laurel, oak or both) in the form of<br />

semi-wreath with a sash and important years<br />

in the history of Belgrade, and in the lower<br />

part the four medals of Belgrade.<br />

HERALDIC ROUNDING<br />

In 1991, the Assembly of Belgrade set up<br />

a working group to identify the situation in<br />

relation to the coat of arms of Belgrade. It<br />

consisted of Mira Kun, Branko Milјuš, Dragomir<br />

Acović and Tomislav Lakušić. In March<br />

1991, it completed its work and presented its<br />

proposals. It was agreed to make changes on<br />

Kun’s coat of arms from 1931, but was decided<br />

not to develop medium and large coat of<br />

arms of the city, as well as the flag.<br />

Changes with respect to the coat of arms<br />

from 1931:<br />

Another row of oars was added, so the<br />

boat would be in accordance with the description<br />

of trireme. The comic book-like<br />

lines and shadows were removed from the<br />

sails. The head stone of the gate archivolt<br />

was moved. The watch towers were separated<br />

against the remaining part of the walls.<br />

There was also the idea of changing the<br />

shape of the shield, but it was discarded.<br />

The situation with the heraldic emblem of<br />

Belgrade is today clear and regulated.<br />

The use of coat of arms and flag is governed<br />

by the decision adopted on 4 July 2003<br />

54 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


y the Belgrade City Council. The coat of arms<br />

is used on three levels: small, medium and large.<br />

The small coat of arms is a term for the basic<br />

heraldic composition of the shield without<br />

paraphernalia.<br />

The medium coat of arms is a shield with<br />

heraldic composition crowned by appropriate<br />

rampart crown. It may have floral composition,<br />

sash with a slogan or name of the titular, as well<br />

as medals. Belgrade, as the main city and historical<br />

capital, has golden rampart crown with five<br />

visible merlons and golden tiara with pearls.<br />

The term large coat of arms means the<br />

shield se with rampart crown, holders, flags,<br />

plinth and other paraphernalia. The large coat<br />

of arms is silver double-headed eagle in flight,<br />

with the basic coat of arms of Belgrade resting<br />

on its chest. The eagle holds a sword and<br />

olive branch in his claws. Below the eagle are<br />

golden oak tree branches, over the crossing of<br />

which the first known coat of arms of the Belgrade<br />

was placed. Over the oak tree branches<br />

there are also four medals that Belgrade received.<br />

s<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

<strong>55</strong>


M A R K<br />

MANAK’S HOUSE AND ITS VALUABLE ETHNOGRAPHIC COLLECTION<br />

In Spite of Transience<br />

and Oblivion<br />

In this house on the Sava slope, built most probably in the early 19 th century, there used to be a post<br />

office, bakery, tavern and apartment. Renewed in 1968, it became home to Hristifor Crnilović’s<br />

wonderful ethnographic collection, including folk costumes and jewelry, tools and accessories,<br />

handicrafts and weapons… It recently flashed again, after another restoration, and once more Manak’s<br />

House became an important spot in Savamala, the quarter of creativity and culture<br />

By:<br />

Dragana<br />

Barjaktarević<br />

Whether you set off to Bosiljčić’s<br />

candy store to buy homemade<br />

Turkish delight and caramels,<br />

or went down the stairway painted as a<br />

Pirot rug from Zeleni Venac to Gavrila<br />

Principa Street, and then further down<br />

to the new Savamala, your eye must have<br />

been caught by Manak’s House – apartment,<br />

post office, bakery, tavern, museum<br />

– a monument which, although erected<br />

on uneven soil, steadily stands amidst two<br />

hundred years of changes. It preserves different<br />

histories under its tiles and, as it<br />

goes with many years, all kinds of legends.<br />

FROM A TAVERN TO A MUSEUM<br />

The exact time of construction of<br />

Manak’s House is not known. It is assumed<br />

that it was raised in the early XIX century,<br />

approximately at the same time as the Residence<br />

of Princess Ljubica and the “Ques-<br />

56 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


tion Mark” kafana. It belongs to eastern-<br />

Balkan type architecture of rich merchant<br />

houses and people believe that a Turkish<br />

aga lived in it, who left Serbia with his family<br />

after the liberation wars and retreats of<br />

Turks began.<br />

At the time, the Sava embankment<br />

looked like a rural settlement – about a<br />

hundred small houses and dilapidated<br />

fishermen huts, surrounded by fields and<br />

orchards. Following the Edict from 1833,<br />

Serbian authorities were granted internal<br />

command of Belgrade, so Prince Miloš<br />

Obrenović decided to build a modern city<br />

at the Sava banks, looking up to the architecture<br />

of European cities living on rivers,<br />

such as Vienna or Budapest. He ordered<br />

the demolition of hovels and paving new<br />

roads, but requested Manak’s House to be<br />

spared, perhaps because it was the location<br />

of the Prince’s temporary post office.<br />

There were no real post offices at the time.<br />

Tatars, postmen on horses, delivered mail<br />

to post stations in which they rested, had<br />

lunch and changed horses. Since it was located<br />

on a busy road, Manak’s House was<br />

seemingly one of such stations.<br />

The first noted information is that the<br />

house was bought by Manojlo Manak, Aromanian<br />

from Macedonia, who dwelled on the<br />

first floor and operated a bakery and tavern<br />

on the ground floor. Since he came to Serbia,<br />

he took a Serbian surname Mihajlović,<br />

so the state books from 1860 mention the<br />

“Tavern of Manak Mihajlović”. There is another<br />

story that Manak Mihajlović was actually<br />

the cousin of Manojlo Manak. Be as<br />

it may, the house was later called Manak’s<br />

House.<br />

The following credible document about<br />

the house is dated 1893. It is an advertisement<br />

in Srpske novine about the sales of a<br />

house belonging to Jovan Manaković and<br />

Agnija, widow of Manak Mihajlović, because<br />

of their debt to the Fund Administration.<br />

As the ad stated, they were selling<br />

Balkan Architecture<br />

Manak’s House is one of the few preserved monuments of Balkan<br />

architecture of oriental type. Besides it, there are a few more<br />

examples of such architecture in the city, such as the “Question<br />

Mark” kafana, Residence of Princess Ljubica, Museum of Vuk and<br />

Dositej… The features of such architecture are tiled roofs, timbered<br />

construction filled with adobe, protruding porches and<br />

verandas. Manak’s House was originally smaller in size. Bedrooms<br />

and guest rooms were on the upper floor, a tavern and a bakery<br />

were on the ground floor and storerooms in the cellar. New<br />

rooms were added later, which can be seen by windows in the<br />

inner part of the building.<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

57


M A R K<br />

The yard side<br />

of Manak’s House<br />

and a part of its<br />

museum exhibition<br />

Hristifor Crnilović<br />

“the land, one house looking at Savamalska<br />

Street (five rooms, bedroom, two kitchens,<br />

bakery, two cellars, a storeroom, two<br />

rooms)”. The house was offered at an auction<br />

and sold for twelve thousand dinars.<br />

Numerous lessees, tenants and owners<br />

changed after the sales. One of them was<br />

Arsa Petrović. The oldest preserved picture<br />

of Manak’s House is kept in the Museum<br />

of the City of Belgrade. It presents<br />

the façade of the house, with an inscription<br />

“Tavern at Manak’s – Arsa Petrović”,<br />

and set coffee tables on the pavement in<br />

front of the building.<br />

The piece of land on which Manak’s<br />

House was built was allotted to the Housing<br />

Cooperative “Betonjerka” in 1960.<br />

The plan was to demolish all dilapidated<br />

buildings on that land and raise modern<br />

residential buildings instead. One of<br />

the dilapidated buildings was Manak’s<br />

House. It was first saved from demolition<br />

by Prince Miloš, and then for the second<br />

time by the City of Belgrade Institute for<br />

the Protection of Cultural Monuments.<br />

Instead of bringing it down, the house<br />

was renovated. The project was assigned<br />

to architect Zoran Jakovljević, and the<br />

works on the restoration and conservation<br />

lasted for four years. In 1968, the<br />

renewed Manak’s House became home<br />

of Hristifor Crnilović’s wonderful ethnographical<br />

collection.<br />

LONG AND DEDICATED RESEARCH<br />

Hristifor Crnilović was one of the most<br />

important collectors of Serbian traditional<br />

handicrafts. Already as a boy, enchanted<br />

by ethnological varieties, he made sketches<br />

of folk costumes’ ornaments and motifs,<br />

which further determined his path of life.<br />

At the time tenants and lessees changed in<br />

Manak’s House, Hristifor Crnilović studied<br />

painting in Belgrade and Munich, exhibited<br />

his works in Paris, fought in both<br />

world wars, worked as a drawing teacher<br />

Not to Forget<br />

A gallery for temporary exhibitions, lectures, training courses<br />

and workshops is on the ground floor of Manak’s House. Courses<br />

for traditional arts and crafts have been held for twenty-five<br />

years, in order to preserve old crafts and household handiworks<br />

from oblivion and make them accessible for as many people as<br />

possible.<br />

in several places in Serbia, but before all,<br />

explored in depth and collected folklore<br />

material from the area of Central Serbia,<br />

Kosovo and Metohija, thereby unconsciously<br />

creating one of the most beautiful<br />

collections of Serbian cultural heritage.<br />

Clearly, he was a painter and aesthetician.<br />

He selected material based on its cultural<br />

and historical significance, but mostly<br />

based on its beauty. Compared to other<br />

collectors, he is remarkable for his systematicness<br />

and attention to detail during<br />

his research. He tried to find complete<br />

folk costumes and place them into a wider<br />

context. For example, next to valuable jewelry,<br />

there is almost the entire equipment<br />

of a goldsmith’s workshop.<br />

Besides folklore material, he left us<br />

sketches, photos, documents, postcards,<br />

magazines, descriptions of what he was<br />

not able to purchase. Besides the research<br />

equipment kept in the museum (camera,<br />

compass, rucksack, boots, clothes, personal<br />

hygiene accessories…), we find out<br />

most about Crnilović’s research in his own<br />

notes from his travels: “For that purpose,<br />

I usually bought a horse at the end of the<br />

scholar year and, riding the horse, visited<br />

villages in the area I was researching for<br />

the entire summer, without a plan determined<br />

in advance. During my journeys,<br />

I firstly observed folk costumes and their<br />

textile ornaments, in order to collect material<br />

for a detailed description of certain<br />

types of costumes. While traveling, although<br />

with very scarce means, I couldn’t<br />

resist the temptation to give the last cent<br />

I had for purchasing a rare folklore antiquity,<br />

only to save it from ruining. At the<br />

beginning of a new scholar year, I’d sell<br />

the horse and return to my regular job in<br />

school. And so it was every summer between<br />

the two wars.”<br />

As he writes, he paid most attention,<br />

time and means to folk costumes and jewelry<br />

as its integral part. Furnishings, parts<br />

of interiors carved in wood, various dishes,<br />

rugs, tools of certain craftsmen, smoking<br />

and writing accessories, combs, tools<br />

for spinning, dyeing, weaving, weapons,<br />

parts of horse equipment, music instruments,<br />

church relics… are represented to<br />

a lesser extent.<br />

When Hristifor Crnilović died in 1963,<br />

his family, according to his last wish, gave<br />

the entire material to the city of Belgrade,<br />

58 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

59


Б Е Л Е Г / З Н А К / M A R K<br />

60 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


under the condition that the collection<br />

is kept as a separate whole. The city provided<br />

the restored Manak’s House for the<br />

collection and engaged the Museum of<br />

Ethnography to take care of it. The permanent<br />

collection “Folk costumes and<br />

jewelry of the Central Balkans area from<br />

the XIX and first decades of the XX century”<br />

was officially opened on November<br />

17, 1968 and has been resisting time for<br />

almost fifty years.<br />

NEW IMPULSES OF AN OLD PLACE<br />

We will even leave the showcases used before.<br />

However, museology advanced in the<br />

meantime, so we will adjust to new rules<br />

of conservation, ways of preserving and<br />

exhibiting artifacts. We will continue with<br />

educational programs, and mostly insist<br />

on the promotion of crafts enlisted in the<br />

Serbian national list of intangible cultural<br />

heritage. Such craftsmen will be able to<br />

present their products, which will be sold<br />

in the museum shop. The program of the<br />

souvenir shop will thereby be enriched<br />

with certified traditional products. <br />

Part of<br />

ethnographic<br />

exhibition in<br />

Manak’s House<br />

Half a century after the first restoration,<br />

Manak’s House was renewed again<br />

and ceremonially opened. At the same<br />

time, Crnilović’s collection was conserved.<br />

– The idea was to make Manak’s House<br />

a small oasis in that part of the city –<br />

explained Jelena Tucaković, curator at<br />

Manak’s House, for National Review. – Besides<br />

the polished collection, we also want<br />

the house to shine from the outside, which<br />

will be achieved with new illumination.<br />

The concept of the permanent collection,<br />

established before us, will not be changed.<br />

Rug<br />

A few years ago, a workshop was held in Belgrade within an<br />

international project “Acupuncture of the City”. The main idea<br />

of the project was the realization of small urbanism interventions,<br />

which will improve the quality of life in certain city quarters.<br />

“Kriška” design studio, led by Barbara Ismailović and Tijana<br />

Tripković, was selected for implementing the interventions in the<br />

then still pretty drowsy Savamala. One of their solutions was a<br />

stairway covered with Pirot rug colors and ornaments. It is behind<br />

Manak’s House and leads from Gavrila Principa Street to Zeleni<br />

Venac. For this spring, “Kriška” studio announced the restoration<br />

of the faded cover.<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

61


B E L V E D E R E S<br />

LJUBOMIR MICIĆ, THE MAN WHO WANTED TO SAVE EUROPE WITH BALKAN VITALISM<br />

The Zeniths of<br />

Our Premonitions<br />

He wouldn’t leave alone puritans and upstarts, the great philistines. He persecuted conformists,<br />

war and antiwar profiteers. The thought it is better to wander away than to sink into staleness. He<br />

believed Europe will be cured with new art, commenced from the free and clean Balkan mountains.<br />

He cooperated with Malevich and Kandinsky, Blok and Ehrenburg, Marinetti and Vasari, Tolkien and<br />

Vinaver, Crnjanski and Krakov… Enemies were fewer, but more dangerous<br />

By:<br />

Petar<br />

Milatović<br />

Ljubomir<br />

Micić<br />

When “Zenit” magazine first appeared<br />

in Zagreb, in February<br />

1921, with the subtitle “monthly<br />

international magazine for art and culture”,<br />

not many people anticipated that the story<br />

about it and its founder would, despite everything,<br />

live until the present days. Our<br />

world, or at least the one that doesn’t consider<br />

art and culture as a redundant burden<br />

compared to irreplaceable reality shows<br />

splashing us from morning till dawn, was<br />

happy to see an unusual exhibition in the<br />

old building of the Museum of Yugoslav<br />

History, entitled Russian Avant-garde in<br />

Belgrade. Especially due to the fact that an<br />

important part of it belonged to us, our National<br />

Museum in Belgrade, which added<br />

eleven works from its collections to the<br />

temporary exhibition. All this was part of<br />

Ljubomir Micić’ legacy, the man credited for<br />

making – besides expressionism, futurism,<br />

cubism, Dadaism, surrealism (…) – one of<br />

our “isms” part of the artistic and cultural<br />

heritage of Europe.<br />

The “Man and Art” manifesto, published<br />

in the first issue of Zenit (emphasizing a<br />

clear stand against war, unsparing criticism<br />

of the society and political circumstances,<br />

and announcing a ruthless fight against religious<br />

bourgeois and philistine values) also<br />

writes:<br />

“The ghost of the red fury of war dug<br />

out a graveyard with its criminal claws for<br />

all of us – for millions of people. One dead<br />

per two soldiers. We must never forget that<br />

13 million people were killed in the previous<br />

decade, ten million died from poverty<br />

and 150 million weakened. And we, who remained<br />

as the last patrol, carry a common<br />

pain in our heart, a common soul of desperation,<br />

a common protest: Never again war!<br />

Never! Never!... Man – created to be God<br />

– was killed like livestock in butcheries!”<br />

Europe, believed Micić, could be initiated<br />

only by the brotherhood of artists, but those<br />

with fresh blood, coming from the Balkans.<br />

That “Barbarogenius” – he wrote – comes<br />

from the clean mountains and areas of the<br />

Balkans, he has got something new to say and<br />

he will confront the old, exhausted European<br />

civilization that initiated World War I.<br />

“Echoes and reactions” followed immediately.<br />

So, for example, the literary magazine<br />

Kritika from Zagreb calls Ljubomir<br />

Micić Ludomir (Serbian “lud” – “crazy”).<br />

He was also criticized because his magazine<br />

was “colorful and boastful like a poster. His<br />

founder and editor in chief Mr. Ljubomir<br />

Micić, unknown to public while he was<br />

writing Orthodox Christian poems… suddenly<br />

became a hero of our time”.<br />

Who was exactly Ljubomir Micić and<br />

what can be said in a single magazine article,<br />

without failing to state important things<br />

about his life and deeds?<br />

FOR A NEW, BETTER EUROPE<br />

He was born in 1895, in the village<br />

of Sošice near Jastrebarsko, then Austro-<br />

62 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

63


В И Д И Ц И / В З Г Л Я Д Ы / B E L V E D E R E S<br />

64 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


Hungary, present Croatia, in a family of<br />

a royal forester, originally from Banija.<br />

Preserved biographies say that he finished<br />

elementary school in Glina, where<br />

he first saw the cinema, circus and traveling<br />

theater, and that those first impressions<br />

of his childhood, almost phantasmagoric,<br />

directed him towards his later<br />

creative work.<br />

Curiosity and searching for his own<br />

self made him, high school student at the<br />

time, one of the founders of the Serbian<br />

Middle School Society in Zagreb (1913-<br />

14) and accompanying theater, staging<br />

works of Serbian playwrights. He, Micić,<br />

was the manager, dramaturge, director,<br />

production designer and actor. He was<br />

a freshman at the Faculty of Philosophy<br />

when World War I began. He was mobilized<br />

and, after a brief nursing course,<br />

sent to the Galician front. Traveling to<br />

the first lines of combat, he saw the sights<br />

of war horrors. There is a story that he<br />

entertained his comrades with acting,<br />

and that he saved himself from further<br />

army service, even execution, by faking<br />

madness. He ended up imprisoned in a<br />

military hospital (previous convent) in<br />

Samobor.<br />

An important moment, crucial in<br />

some aspects, happened in the spring<br />

of 1918, during his participation in<br />

the big historical meeting of Slavic nations<br />

in Prague, where he accepted, with<br />

great enthusiasm, a common conviction<br />

about a “new and better Europe”. As a<br />

“graduated student” of the University of<br />

Zagreb, he began publishing his verses<br />

in magazines, as well as reviews about<br />

theater, literature and fine arts. His<br />

first book of poems Ritmi moje slutnje<br />

(Rhythms of my Premonition) was published<br />

in 1919, and caught the attention<br />

of Miloš Crnjanski, especially because<br />

of the new free verse and reduced poetic<br />

form. The following spring, the<br />

book Spas duše (Salvation of the Soul)<br />

was published, and Micić’s verses soon<br />

found their place in the anthologies of<br />

modern Croatian, Southern-Slavic (in<br />

German) and Yugoslav lyrics.<br />

The rest of Ljubomir Micić’s life and<br />

work was determined by his magazine<br />

Zenit, herald of the Zenitism art movement.<br />

In many ways and in many directions.<br />

WITHOUT CENTRAL-EUROPEAN<br />

DROPPINGS<br />

February 1921 and publishing of the<br />

first issue of Zenit was a turning point in<br />

the life and creative work of Ljubomir<br />

Micić, but also, we may as well say, something<br />

completely new in Europe of that<br />

time. From its form, highly unusual, and<br />

very liberal graphic design for that time,<br />

to a multitude of collaborators, already<br />

known and acknowledged artists, whose<br />

contributions were printed in their<br />

mother tongues (French, German, English,<br />

Russian, Dutch, Czech, Esperanto,<br />

Hungarian and, of course, Serbian and<br />

Croatian), as well as those whose “otherness”,<br />

avant-garde, was already seriously<br />

doubtful in terms of art.<br />

Already from that first issue (of a total<br />

of 43 published), the pages were filled<br />

with literary and fine arts works of European<br />

artists, as well as texts about literature,<br />

art, theater, film… Their list is too<br />

long for a magazine article, but we will<br />

mention names such as: Kazimir Malevich,<br />

Wassily Kandinsky, Alexander Blok,<br />

Alexander Archipenko, Lazar El Lissitzki,<br />

Ilya Ehrenburg, Lunacharsky, Yesenin,<br />

Mayakovski, Tommaso Marinetti, Ruggero<br />

Vasari, Delaunay, Lajos Kassak…<br />

There were also, of course, artists from<br />

the country, then Kingdom of Serbs,<br />

Croats and Slovenians or Yugoslavia:<br />

Boško Tokin, Stanislav Vinaver, Miloš<br />

Branko Ve Poljanski<br />

Branko Ve<br />

Polјanski, brother<br />

of Ljubomir<br />

Micić, 1921<br />

Photo: From<br />

the collection<br />

of the Film<br />

Archive in<br />

Belgrade<br />

Ljubomir Micić’s two years younger brother appears in literature<br />

under pseudonyms Virgil, Valerij and Vij Poljanski. His name<br />

first appeared when he was expelled from all schools in Croatia<br />

and Slavonia in 1915, because of publicly mocking their anthem<br />

by paraphrasing it “Our beautiful land full of bottles”. He was first<br />

mentioned in literature when he signed his name as editor in<br />

chief and only collaborator in “Svetokret. Magazine for transporting<br />

the human spirit to the North Pole”, published in Ljubljana<br />

in January 1921. He later published a novel “77 Suicides” and<br />

a book of poems “Panic under the Sun”, both presented at the<br />

Exhibition of Revolutionary Art of the West, in 1926 in Moscow,<br />

within Yugoslav Zenitism, whose participation was organized by<br />

Ljubomir Micić.<br />

In Paris, Branko presented his brother’s art movement in<br />

reputable magazines. He established good relations with the<br />

Russian avant-garde as well. He fiercely confronted the poetics<br />

of futurists, especially Alfred Kerr, author of pogrom verses “Serbia<br />

must die”, so convincingly that Kerr had to leave Paris the<br />

next day.<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

65


B E L V E D E R E S<br />

Ljubomir Micić<br />

on Serbian Street<br />

in Cannes, 1934<br />

Crnjanski, Rastko Petrović, Dušan Matić,<br />

Dragan Aleksić, Stanislav Krakov…<br />

Serbian modernists, however, did not<br />

cooperate long with Ljubomir Micić.<br />

They wanted to write about their poetics<br />

on the pages of Zenit, but this couldn’t<br />

pass. The June 1921 issue published the<br />

“Manifesto of Zenitism”, and they did<br />

not want to take part in the new art<br />

movement. They wanted to remain independent.<br />

The days of Zenit and Ljubomir<br />

Micić in Zagreb ended with a text published<br />

in 1923. The then authorities and<br />

Micić’s (intellectual) opponents did not<br />

like the caption stating that Zenitists<br />

will resolutely defend themselves from<br />

the “cooperation of mediocrities and despicable<br />

intruders and Central-European<br />

droppings”.<br />

MUTUAL MISUNDERSTANDING<br />

Another February, this time in 1924,<br />

meant a new beginning of Zenit. This<br />

time at its Belgrade address. In this issue,<br />

Micić tells: “Humanity can be united<br />

only by common work, on a common<br />

deed – for a common cause. Behold: we<br />

are united by new art”.<br />

He didn’t find more understanding<br />

for “new art” in Belgrade either. Micić<br />

replies in his own manner: “It is true<br />

that we are dangerous for a state of cultural<br />

philistines, painting dilettantes and<br />

plagiarist poets, of all empty pumpkins<br />

and hollow heads, braking at stinky<br />

paragraphs.”<br />

The resistance Micić was confronted<br />

with in the capital of the Kingdom of<br />

Sad and Uncertain Ending<br />

The beginning of painting of Branko Ve Poljanski, Ljubomir’s<br />

younger brother, is related to Paris. He had two exhibitions, in 1926<br />

and 1930, after which he disappeared. The last document about<br />

him is from 1932, a letter of great French writer Henry Barby sent<br />

to Ljubomir Micić, telling him that his brother is tortured in the Parisian<br />

prefecture and that he will try to help him, with the support<br />

of “Le Monde”.<br />

There is no reliable information about what happened with<br />

him later. It is known that he ended up as a bum under the bridges<br />

of the Seine, probably before the beginning of World War II, but no<br />

one knows what kind of breakdown he had when he left poetry<br />

and painting “just like that” and departed with his brother, whose<br />

most faithful follower, comrade and fellow sufferer he had been<br />

ever since the appearance of “Zenit”.<br />

Serbs, Croats and Slovenians was, perhaps,<br />

most obvious in April that year,<br />

when he organized the First International<br />

Exhibition of New Art. He responded<br />

the only way he could, with a<br />

text in Zenit:<br />

“Officially cultural Belgrade was, unsurprisingly,<br />

absent. There were 12 countries<br />

with 110 originals – who in Belgrade<br />

would be interested in it, especially since<br />

it’s Zenit’s exhibition. Besides Kandinsky,<br />

Archipenko, Zadkine, Delaunay, Gleizes,<br />

Lissitzky, Lozovik, Biller, Peters, Paladini<br />

and many others, the audience could also<br />

see the first Zenitist painters Petrov and<br />

Josif Klek… Perhaps everything would<br />

be different if Micić was hanging in the<br />

middle of the exhibition hall, people<br />

would come in masses. But…”<br />

It’s worth to say that the exhibited<br />

works, belonging to “Zenit’s Gallery”,<br />

were actually an intersection of the<br />

avant-garde scene of the 1920s and, why<br />

not, the first encounter of Belgrade with<br />

modern art. They were collected since<br />

1922 and Micić’s trip to Berlin, as well<br />

as with the help of his associates from<br />

Paris, Prague, Vienna and Berlin. He announced<br />

this gallery already in the double<br />

issue of Zenit 17-18, thus we know<br />

that he also possessed works of artists,<br />

mainly his associates, from Russia (most<br />

of them were exhibited recently in the<br />

already mentioned exhibition Russian<br />

Avant-Garde in Belgrade in the Museum<br />

of Yugoslav History), France, Yugoslavia,<br />

Denmark, Hungary, Czechoslovakia, the<br />

Netherlands, Germany, USA.<br />

The conflict and (mutual) misunderstanding<br />

between Micić and his environment,<br />

not only in Belgrade, did not cease.<br />

On the contrary. Micić did not hesitate<br />

to indicate everything that was, in his<br />

opinion, bad in the culture of the newly<br />

founded state. He even directly named<br />

the “guilty ones”, from painter Mirko<br />

Rački to writers such as Isidora Sekulić<br />

and Miroslav Krleža, and literary critics<br />

Jovan Skerlić and Bogdan Popović. He<br />

ragingly claimed that art is “absolute creation”,<br />

not “reproduction of nature”. Together<br />

with his brother Branko Ve Poljanski<br />

and a small group of supporters,<br />

he organized protests against the visit<br />

of the Indian poet, Nobel Prize winner,<br />

Rabindranath Tagore, to Belgrade. Dur-<br />

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В И Д И Ц И / В З Г Л Я Д Ы / B E L V E D E R E S<br />

68 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


ing his lecture at the Kolarac University,<br />

they threw paper airplanes and managed<br />

to drop an open letter, which no one<br />

wanted to publish, into a peasant shoe<br />

meant to be given to the poet as a gift by<br />

the hosts.<br />

NEW STATE, OLD TROUBLES<br />

Zenit experienced its dusk with number<br />

43, published in 1926, specifically<br />

with the text “Zenitism through the<br />

Prism of Marxism”, signed by a pseudonym<br />

(?) M. Rasinov. The almighty Law<br />

on State Protection banned the magazine,<br />

because of its “communist propaganda”. It<br />

was its last issue and, even though Ljubomir<br />

Micić claimed he was not the author<br />

of the controversial text, a warrant<br />

for his arrest was issued. Then follows his<br />

exciting escape over Rijeka to France, in<br />

which capital city he lived and worked for<br />

the following ten years, making his living<br />

by translating and writing in French,<br />

further developing his Zenitist ideas and<br />

the image of “Barbarogenius”, the main<br />

bearer of those ideas. He tried to open an<br />

art gallery several times, and was friends<br />

with many reputable artists, writers and<br />

magazine editors.<br />

He returned to Belgrade in 1936 and<br />

four years later published the “Manifesto<br />

of Serbiandom” in his new literary-political<br />

magazine Serbiandom, oriented,<br />

among other things, towards questioning<br />

the previous relations of Serbs and Croats,<br />

ardently fighting for the rights of Serbian<br />

people and cherishing the Cyrillic<br />

alphabet. Only one issue was published.<br />

He spent the years of Nazi occupation<br />

of Belgrade fighting for survival, selling<br />

different (valuable) things from his home,<br />

together with his wife Anuška, his faithful<br />

companion ever since his days of youth<br />

in Zagreb, coming from a rich Jewish<br />

family, which renounced her after she got<br />

married and took over Orthodox Christian<br />

faith.<br />

New state, old troubles. His criticism<br />

of institutions and authorities was not<br />

suitable for the newly established order at<br />

all. As before, he was again considered an<br />

inconvenient, undesirable, harmful, even<br />

dangerous person. Life, however, must<br />

go on. Anuška and Ljubomir survived<br />

by collecting and selling scrap paper, and<br />

occasionally packs of then very popular<br />

chewing gum, delivered to him from the<br />

Orthodox Christian Church Community<br />

in Trieste. He was later thrown out of his<br />

apartment in Njegoševa 69 and moved to<br />

a narrow space on the last floor in Prote<br />

Mateje 18. Then came the greatest blow,<br />

Anuška’s death. One of the rare people<br />

who remained friends with him, Branislav<br />

Skrobonja, told that Ljubomir went<br />

to the Novo Groblje cemetery every single<br />

day, to visit Anuška’s grave, as long as<br />

he was able to walk. He then confided to<br />

him that a reputable daily newspaper refused<br />

to publish an obituary for Anuška.<br />

Makes you shudder…<br />

AT THE END<br />

Micić died in the hallway of a nursing<br />

home in Kačarevo near Pančevo in 1971,<br />

from “pneumonia, as well as from exhaustion,<br />

malnutrition and an accumulated<br />

feeling of disappointment because<br />

of permanently failed battles”. (However,<br />

with the help of two of his young friends,<br />

he was buried next to his Anuška.) The<br />

probate proceeding lasted for ten years.<br />

Since it was determined that he had no<br />

heirs, his entire legacy became ownership<br />

of the National Museum in Belgrade.<br />

Books, documents, magazines and<br />

artworks on paper were packed in twelve<br />

metal cases. The thirteenth, discovered<br />

by accident in one of the Museum’s offices,<br />

included neatly arranged works of<br />

famous avant-garde artists: Marc Chagall,<br />

Wassily Kandinsky, El Lissitzky… The<br />

list of Micić’s legacy, as ascertained by<br />

art historian Irina Subotić, who was his<br />

friend and enlisted his entire inheritance,<br />

is under number 1772…<br />

The Serbian public was introduced to<br />

the rich Micić’s legacy for the first time<br />

at the big exhibition “Zenit” and Avant-<br />

Garde of the 1920s, organized by the<br />

National Museum in Belgrade in 1983,<br />

prepared by Irina Subotić and Vidosava<br />

Golubović. The reprint of all 43 issues of<br />

Zenit was published a quarter of a century<br />

later, with a voluminous (deserved)<br />

study of the life and work of Ljubomir<br />

Micić, prepared by the two mentioned<br />

authors.<br />

Did Ljubomir Micić finally catch the<br />

rhythm of his premonitions? <br />

Ljubomir Micić<br />

with wife Anuška<br />

in Cannes, 1934<br />

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70 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


PROFESSOR ŽARKO VIDOVIĆ, PHD (1921–2016), GIANT OF SERBIAN CULTURE<br />

Witness<br />

of Golgotha, Prophet<br />

of Resurrection<br />

He was in the train of death, used by the Croatian army in 1942 to transport Serbs from<br />

Sarajevo to “Jasenovac” concentration camp, to a road of no return. (That is when he heard the<br />

original version of the song “Đurđevdan”.) He finally ended in a labor camp in Norway, later escaped<br />

to Sweden and returned to Yugoslavia after the war. Studied, gained his PhD degree, gave lectures. He<br />

wrote books exceptionally important for Serbian culture and the Serbian idea. He realized early that<br />

horrible times in Serbia will continue and that there is no survival without internal renewal. For that<br />

reason, he was attacked both by Serbophobes and pseudo Serbs. We are publishing parts of his war<br />

memories, which he recently shared with us<br />

By: Dejan Bulajić<br />

We often stay near people who<br />

walked narrow and steep paths<br />

all their life. They possess enough<br />

determination, undisputable courage and a<br />

bit of solitude, as a light shade of mystery.<br />

Žarko Vidović, historian of civilization, art<br />

critic and Orthodox Christian philosopher,<br />

was a man who conquered many steep paths<br />

of life. They created a stable personality in<br />

him, dominated by achieved objectives and<br />

real perception of the world and time. We<br />

asked him to take a walk down some of these<br />

paths for National Review, and to retrieve<br />

from his memory distant traveling companions,<br />

a song and evil in soulless bosoms. This<br />

brought him back to the St. George Day’s<br />

train of death, which took him and another<br />

three thousand Serbian prisoners from Sarajevo<br />

to Jasenovac in 1942.<br />

“After two years of studying in Zagreb,<br />

where I could already feel the growing resentment<br />

towards Serbs, and a short stay in<br />

a military unit in Petrovaradin, I returned<br />

to Sarajevo in mid-April 1941. An elite Austrian<br />

troop arrived there, with the main task<br />

to convince Serbs about the need to renew<br />

the heritage of Austro-Hungarian dominion.<br />

Germans also insisted on it and wanted<br />

to create good relations with Serbs. Ustasha<br />

units, which had already begun their<br />

bloody feasts in the heartland of Bosnia, arrived<br />

to Sarajevo on April 20, but, because of<br />

the Germans, could not immediately attack<br />

Serbs. It was so until June 22, when Germans<br />

attacked the Soviet Union. Life in Sarajevo<br />

significantly changed after that day. Since<br />

the German units were transferred, the control<br />

was assigned to Ustashas and they were<br />

allowed to do whatever they wanted. They<br />

didn’t hesitate a single moment and immediately<br />

started hunting down Serbs. They arrested<br />

and abused whoever they’d catch.”<br />

He was soon arrested as well.<br />

“I was arrested on October 6, 1941. I<br />

spent a month in their prison, under constant<br />

beatings, so intense that my own<br />

mother couldn’t recognize me when she saw<br />

me. I was subsequently transferred to a German<br />

prison, where the situation was better.<br />

I stayed there until April 3 of the following<br />

year, when I was cleared of charges for communist<br />

agitation. My joy did not last long. At<br />

the exit of the court building, Ustashas arrested<br />

me only because I was a Serb and returned<br />

me to the City Prison dungeon. There<br />

were 60 of us in cell number 4 and the circle<br />

Photo: Dušan<br />

Jauković<br />

(Archive of<br />

“Zenit”)<br />

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D E P A R T U R E<br />

of humiliation and torturing opened up<br />

again. At the end of April, they brought my<br />

acquaintance Mića Subotić to our cell, who<br />

encouraged us by saying that Italians would<br />

soon come to the city and that they were<br />

kind towards Serbs. Their units showed up<br />

in Ilidža in early May, raising hope among<br />

people in the city that the end of Croatian<br />

terror is near. However, at the same time,<br />

the Germans left the city to Ustashas, who<br />

knew what the Serbs were hoping for. They<br />

decided to undeceive us and forestall the<br />

good will of Italians. On St. George’s Day, at<br />

dawn, the dungeon doors slammed open. A<br />

haughty Ustasha face yelled: ‘C’mon, Serbs,<br />

time for morning picnic!’”<br />

BURIED IN THE TRAIN OF DEATH<br />

That St. George’s Day morning picnic was<br />

the last for many people of Sarajevo from<br />

famous Serbian families, brought to prison<br />

together with their sons. Among them were<br />

also Muslims who stood up for Serbs or declared<br />

themselves as Serbs. They were also<br />

convicted of being against the annexation<br />

of Mostar by the Banate of Croatia. Before<br />

dawn, under the dark sky of Sarajevo,<br />

in packed railway wagons, everyone began<br />

singing Đurđevdan (St. George’s Day), as hope<br />

and forgiveness, rarely standing side by side:<br />

“Spring is landing on my shoulder, lilies are<br />

turning green…” Many years later, with the<br />

recognized skill of a show-biz acrobat, the<br />

song with the same name and changed text<br />

will become a mark of drunken celebrations.<br />

“They took us out of the prison and surrounding<br />

barracks and led us to the bank<br />

of Miljacka. A long composition of freight<br />

wagons was placed from the City Hall to the<br />

Electrical Power Station, with three locomotives.<br />

We didn’t know where we were going,<br />

and even if we did, it wouldn’t mean a lot<br />

A Sketch of the Path<br />

Žarko Vidović was born in 1921 in Tešanj. He was a volunteer<br />

in the April war in 1941. In October 1941, he was arrested in Sarajevo.<br />

He was first detained in a German and then in an Ustasha<br />

camp. He was deported to Norway and later escaped to Sweden.<br />

In Uppsala, where his daughter Zaga was born, he graduated at<br />

the Faculty of Philosophy, first history of philosophy and then<br />

history of art.<br />

After the war, he gained his PhD degree in 1958. He taught at<br />

universities in Sarajevo and Zagreb. He was dismissed from the<br />

university in December 1967, and until his retirement in 1986, he<br />

worked in the Institute of Literature and Art of Serbia.<br />

to us. Unfortunately, or perhaps luckily, we<br />

didn’t know what was happening in Jasenovac,<br />

as we didn’t know about other parts of<br />

the country. News arrived late to the city<br />

and almost never to the prisons. We thought<br />

they were taking us to German labor camps,<br />

which was certainly better than being a prisoner<br />

of the Ustashas. Inscriptions on wagons<br />

read: ‘7 horses or 40 soldiers’. That was<br />

their capacity. They, however, packed 200 of<br />

us per wagon, about three thousand people<br />

in total. We stood there closely crammed to<br />

one another. Among us were boys, people<br />

already exhausted in dungeons and those<br />

who couldn’t resist panicking, so we started<br />

singing to encourage them. Still open wagons<br />

resounded with songs ‘From the other<br />

side of Jajce, hemp is growing…’ and ‘Let’s<br />

sing Mitrovčanka, as if we were free…’ Then<br />

someone started singing ‘Đurđevdan’. He<br />

had a deep voice, roaring with desperation<br />

and spite. At the crack of dawn, over a sleeping<br />

city, which was not even anticipating the<br />

burden of our weakness, a song of desperate<br />

people rumbled. The Ustashas were furious<br />

and immediately closed and chained the<br />

wagon doors. ‘Now you can sing as much as<br />

you please!’ they yelled. By the way, the song<br />

‘Đurđevdan’ was joyful and full of hope. It<br />

celebrated the beginning of spring, love, a<br />

new circle of nature and life, working in the<br />

fields and fertility. As such, it was always<br />

sung on St. George’s Day morning picnics.<br />

After all, St. George’s Day was one of the<br />

most joyful holidays at the time. With this<br />

song, we cheered one another not to languish,<br />

not to lose faith that we will make it,<br />

perhaps even flee some of the labor camps.<br />

After all, being a German prisoner was incomparably<br />

better than being in an Ustasha<br />

casemate, and we believed we were going<br />

to the Germans. However, when the train<br />

started, it became more and more difficult<br />

to encourage yourself and others. We were<br />

standing crammed, in the darkness, almost<br />

without air. The air coming from four small<br />

louvers, high up in the wagon corners, was<br />

sufficient for half a lung. No one gave us<br />

water or food. We couldn’t budge, move our<br />

hands or unbutton. When they took us out<br />

of the dungeons, we didn’t have time to go<br />

to the bathroom, so we did it standing next<br />

to one another. Weakened people fainted,<br />

but continued standing next to us, because<br />

it wasn’t possible to fall or sit down. And so<br />

it was for two days… We arrived to Brod<br />

only the following evening.”<br />

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74 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


AT THE EDGE OF ANOTHER WORLD<br />

They moved to wide gauge wagons in<br />

Brod.<br />

“As soon as the train stopped, we heard<br />

someone yelling: ‘Out, quickly!’ When our<br />

door opened, we were ordered to move to<br />

wagons placed on the next gauge. We started<br />

jumping out, while the Ustashas beat us<br />

with gunstocks. Then I saw a horrible sight.<br />

As if at the edge of another world, next to<br />

us and behind us, people were falling like<br />

tree trunks. Dead, suffocated, strangled,<br />

broken… They were standing next to us, as<br />

if sleeping on their feet, swinging cold and<br />

extinguished, keeping a bit of living space<br />

for themselves. They passed out without<br />

a word, without strength to ask for help.<br />

We didn’t notice them. And now, when we<br />

moved away from one another, their bodies<br />

were falling with a dull crash. Some,<br />

however, stayed in the wagons, incapable of<br />

moving. Ustashas quickly finished them. At<br />

least 50 people from our wagon didn’t continue<br />

their trip to Jasenovac. They moved<br />

us to other wagons – from two Sarajevo<br />

wagons into one for Jasenovac. Nobody was<br />

speaking anymore, while songs disappeared<br />

a long time ago. Silence and agony… and<br />

again the same darkness, the same anxiety,<br />

again no air. We arrived to Jasenovac<br />

on May 8. We thought our suffering finally<br />

came to an end. How sorrowful!... We were<br />

happy to be in Jasenovac.”<br />

And there…<br />

“When the wagon door opened, we saw<br />

Croatian soldiers, Ustashas. One of them<br />

yelled: ‘Welcome! Anyone hungry?’ Nobody<br />

said a word, nobody moved… only one boy<br />

replied: ‘I am hungry.’ The Ustasha asked<br />

him to come out. He came to the wagon<br />

door, hardly capable of standing on his feet.<br />

I have never forgotten the expressions on<br />

their faces. One haughty, with a sneer, and<br />

the other tired from suffering and weakness.<br />

That’s life too, I thought, but it doesn’t have<br />

to look like that. The Ustasha bent over, took<br />

a handful of gravel, brought it to his mouth<br />

and yelled: ‘Open your mouth!’ His face was<br />

distorted: ‘Eat! This will be your meal.’ He<br />

filled his mouth with gravel and then waved<br />

our head towards us: ‘Out!’ Once again,<br />

many motionless bodies remained behind<br />

us. I think about two thousand people<br />

reached Jasenovac; every third died during<br />

the transport. We ran from the station<br />

to the camp under blows of the Ustashas. If<br />

anyone would stumble and fall, he would be<br />

finished off with gunstocks or bullets.”<br />

UNDER A DARK SKY<br />

However, after all the suffering, the<br />

hopes sung in Đurđevdan came true. Germans<br />

were waiting for them in front of the<br />

reception camp.<br />

“It was a surprise only rare concentration<br />

camp detainees got to have. The ‘Tot’<br />

organization, labor department of the Third<br />

Reich, was waiting for fresh labor material.<br />

They were selecting workers for camps in<br />

Norway. We were lined up in several rows in<br />

front of the main camp entrance. German<br />

soldiers come behind our backs and with<br />

their heavy military boots hit us below our<br />

knees. Those who kneeled or fell couldn’t<br />

get up, while those who stayed on their feet<br />

had to run to the other side, to the group<br />

chosen for labor in German camps. A horrible<br />

fate of Jasenovac awaited those who<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

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D E P A R T U R E<br />

stayed on the ground. A few hundred of us<br />

were separated in a special area, to barracks<br />

where they prepared us for departing to labor<br />

camps. We had three meals a day, while<br />

our brothers, brought with us from Sarajevo,<br />

separated from us by a barren space about<br />

thirty meters wide, fenced with barbwire,<br />

were dying of hunger, exhaustion, illness, under<br />

a dark sky. Ustashas left them for nights<br />

on wet swampy wastelands, in rain and cold,<br />

without food and water. During the day, they<br />

were mainly working as gravediggers. I remember<br />

them coming to the fence, putting<br />

their hands on the barbwire and watching<br />

us, sorrowful and tired, while we were standing<br />

on the other side. Someone smiles, waves<br />

his hand or crosses himself, as if wishing us<br />

something good. Among them are our cousins,<br />

friends, fathers… They call us, ask about<br />

those who survived and add: ‘If you ever see<br />

my folks…’ We turn around so they wouldn’t<br />

see our tears. We both anticipate that we are<br />

departing forever. When we were served our<br />

meals, we moved to the side, so they wouldn’t<br />

see us eat. About ten days later, they took us<br />

from Jasenovac by train to Zemun, and then<br />

from there, through Poland and Germany, to<br />

Norway. At the end of June, we arrived to<br />

an empty camp ‘Beisfjord’, whose previous<br />

prisoners, Russian captives, obviously hadn’t<br />

survived. Many of our compatriots from the<br />

St. George’s Day transport had the same fate<br />

– Čedo, Đorđe, Vukašin, Dobro… and many<br />

others, who didn’t survive the hell of Jasenovac.<br />

Only about two hundred of them lived<br />

to see freedom.”<br />

WARS AFTER THE WAR<br />

Descendants Judge about Our Deeds<br />

When we were making this interview in his apartment in<br />

Belgrade, in 27. marta Street, Žarko Vidović was coming close to<br />

his 95 th birthday and was still vital. His thoughts were clear, he<br />

had excellent control over sentences and the flow of the story.<br />

He already had remarkable works behind him. He passed away<br />

in Belgrade, on May 18, 2016, a day after his 95 th birthday. He<br />

left a monumental philosophical and historical opus behind<br />

him. We will mention only a few: “Essays about Spiritual Experience”,<br />

“Tragedy and Liturgy”, “Logos – the Liturgical Consciousness<br />

of Orthodox Christianity”, “Njegoš and the Vow of Kosovo<br />

in the New Era”, “Confronting Orthodox Christianity and Europe”,<br />

“Serbs in Yugoslavia and Europe”, “Faith is Art too”, “Art in Five<br />

Epochs of the Civilization”. (…)<br />

Žarko stayed in Norwegian camps until<br />

May 1943, when, with the help of Norwegian<br />

workers, he fled to Sweden. He<br />

was granted a scholarship in Uppsala and<br />

a possibility to enroll in the university. He<br />

returned to his country after the war. He<br />

graduated history of philosophy and history<br />

of art and defended his PhD thesis in 1958.<br />

He was arrested twice because of his criticism<br />

of the social system. He taught history<br />

of civilization in Sarajevo and at the University<br />

of Zagreb, which dismissed him because<br />

of his stands about Serbophobia. He<br />

didn’t find support in the Serbian academic<br />

public either, which, under the influence of<br />

Dobrica Ćosić, turned its back on him. He<br />

worked until retirement in the Institute of<br />

Literature and Art of Serbia. Žarko belongs<br />

to a small group of philosophers who put<br />

the Christian view of the world and social<br />

issues in the foreground. He thereby indicates<br />

our true identity – primarily religious<br />

and then national.<br />

“We are living in the strategically most<br />

important area of Europe. For the English,<br />

who have an important influence on geopolitical<br />

events in the world, the issue of<br />

the survival of Europe, as the foundation<br />

of the western world, is an issue of Eastern<br />

Europe and its borders. We are located<br />

on those borders, which is a fact the western<br />

world will never accept and will never<br />

leave us alone, regardless of how we behave.<br />

It is a world of superior technological development,<br />

without any spirit. They know<br />

about our historical and spiritual connection<br />

with the Russians and they will never<br />

agree to it. After all, our greatest troubles in<br />

the past hundred and fifty years are coming<br />

from them. They are serving us crises<br />

and pushing us into wars, preventing the<br />

uniting and strengthening of the Serbian<br />

nation. They took away our right to participate<br />

in making a peace agreement with<br />

countries of the fascist block and our enemies,<br />

Croatians. However, Serbs can endure<br />

everything, under the condition that<br />

the nation is renewed. Unfortunately, our<br />

intellectual elite, disoriented within, cannot<br />

lead that process. In my opinion, this<br />

has to be done by the church. Simply, the<br />

liturgy, or the liturgical-parochial community,<br />

must become the greatest authority, as<br />

an ethical and historical community with<br />

enough strength to resist all challenges. A<br />

liturgy is a dialogue between priests and<br />

believers before God, and the Eucharist is<br />

a vow. We must return to St. Sava’s understanding<br />

of vow.” <br />

76 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

77


L I F E , N O V E L S<br />

78 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


JOVAN ZIVLAK, POET, ABOUT THE VORTEXES BESIEGING US AND DOUBTING UTOPIAS<br />

On the Golden<br />

Beam of<br />

Searching<br />

The world of power is unscrupulous, elusive and demands to subdue everything. The era of great<br />

salvific and emancipating truths has ended. Man is swinging over an abyss, in a performance without<br />

a horizon. Everything reaching us is shocking and related to evil. The circle does not close with<br />

purification, reconciliation with the good forces of life. Culture and art are humiliated, trivialized, fallen<br />

into the hands of barely average spirits and turned into seasonal serial production. We are overtired,<br />

occupied and possessed. However, that in no way means that Man’s chances are null<br />

By: Branislav Matić<br />

He grew up in the plain, a sprout of<br />

a blossom brought from afar. He<br />

searched for free verse and seeing<br />

through distances. He is known as a<br />

modern and authentic poet, a silent rebel,<br />

who knows much more than what he<br />

doesn’t want. Thinking the world means<br />

participating in its constant creation. He<br />

doesn’t like regional narcissism and the<br />

shadows of its provincial politics. In Novi<br />

Sad, a long time ago, he found extreme<br />

concepts of show-biz poetry and doubtful<br />

avant-garde, but chose to patiently build<br />

a high culture of knowledge and his own<br />

artistic position. And he succeeded. On<br />

the tower-belvedere of that edifice, we are<br />

writing the mosaic of Jovan Zivlak (Nakovo,<br />

1947).<br />

Lineage. My ancestors are from Dalmatia,<br />

from a place called Dicmo. They moved<br />

towards Krajina, on the other side of Dinara,<br />

when the Turks retreated deeper into the<br />

inland in the seventeenth and eighteenth<br />

century. My ancestor was perhaps a repatriate<br />

in Krajina, since the border between<br />

the Turks and Venetians often changed after<br />

the siege of Vienna, thanks to the permanent<br />

resistance of Serbian uskoks. As we<br />

were able to reconstruct from scarce legends,<br />

my ancestor came to Resanovce near<br />

Grahovo alone, thus he was named Zivle,<br />

Zivlak, as a lamb that lost its mother.<br />

Road, Signs<br />

Photo:<br />

Guest’s Archive<br />

Jovan Zivlak (Nakovo, 1947), poet, essayist and critic. He graduated<br />

from the Faculty of Philosophy in Novi Sad, Department of<br />

Serbian Language and Literature. He was editor-in-chief of Polja<br />

magazine, head of “Svetovi” Publishing House, now head of “Adresa”.<br />

Initiator and editor of Golden Beam magazine (since 2001).<br />

Founder and director of the International Literary Festival of Novi<br />

Sad (since 2005). President of the Literary Society of Vojvodina<br />

from 2002 to 2010. He published fourteen books of poetry in Serbian<br />

(since 1969) and four books of essays (since 1996). Included<br />

in many Serbian and international anthologies. His books were<br />

translated into French, Hungarian, Italian, Slovakian, Romanian,<br />

Bulgarian, German, Polish and Spanish. Winner of sixteen respectable<br />

Serbian and international awards.<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

79


L I F E , N O V E L S<br />

Brother Dušan,<br />

father Luka, Jovan<br />

Jovan, mother<br />

Milica, brother<br />

Dušan, cousin<br />

Jovan<br />

Jovan in his<br />

youth<br />

With poet Milan<br />

Komnenić<br />

My ancestors from my mother’s side<br />

were highlanders. My mother’s mother<br />

Boja was Čeko, related to Gavrilo Princip,<br />

who was also a Čeko. Their houses<br />

were next to one another and she knew<br />

Gavrilo well, since they played as children<br />

on a wasteland in front of the houses<br />

in Obljaj. Once, in Princip’s Obljaj, after<br />

traveling from Banat, I went through<br />

Gavrilo’s preserved notebook into which<br />

he wrote verses. I was fascinated. That<br />

notebook is no longer there, as a Princip<br />

family member with the same name told<br />

me a few years ago.<br />

My mother Milica was born in Isjek,<br />

and her father was Damjan Bursać. He<br />

spent almost eight years as a soldier of<br />

the black-yellow monarchy, four years in<br />

the army during the Great War. He was<br />

in Vienna, Trieste, Pest, Sofia. As a batman,<br />

he did not directly experience the<br />

horrors of war.<br />

My mother grew up in a big family.<br />

She had six brothers and a sister. Her sister<br />

died as a partisan, one of her brothers<br />

died during the war. Her oldest brother,<br />

an officer, was imprisoned in Bileća as a<br />

supporter of the Cominform.<br />

My father’s father, Jovan, died during<br />

the war; my father Luka, as a cadet at<br />

the Air Force NCO School in Rajlovac,<br />

was a prisoner in a German army camp,<br />

and his brother Sava, first partisan, then<br />

chetnik in Knin, emigrated to the U.S.<br />

As the family scattered around, the old<br />

homeland disappeared.<br />

As a boy, in Nakovo, a village in Banat,<br />

where old customs were destroyed after<br />

the colonization, faith forgotten, families<br />

became provisional, I was almost without<br />

memory. The colonization was a doubleeffect<br />

endeavor: it created a population<br />

of agricultural workers, who would continue<br />

production on the deserted fields<br />

of Banat, and formed a socialist human,<br />

exposed to the forces of modernization,<br />

dominated by the collective, as well as<br />

by technology, the myth of industry and<br />

science. The change was under the flags<br />

of a solid and simplified ideology.<br />

Through distant pictures. The homeland<br />

was a shell, in which I slowly realized<br />

that there were other worlds, different<br />

people. I first lived in a closed<br />

community. The distance was insuperable.<br />

There was a pitted macadam road<br />

to Kikinda. We rarely traveled. Tractors<br />

and a few buses were driving to Kikinda.<br />

Working in the fields, the school as the<br />

place of disciplining, social life between<br />

busy and strict meetings of grown-ups,<br />

afternoon relaxing in the yard of the<br />

kafana, where people drank beer and<br />

competed in bowling. Sundays on the<br />

football field, with passionate and loud<br />

cheering. There were a few telephones<br />

in the village. Speakers on lampposts<br />

broadcasted music, political speeches,<br />

football games, news from the Local Office.<br />

Then came the radio, and later we<br />

discovered television. We watched it on<br />

a single TV set, placed on the Cultural<br />

Center window.<br />

Privacy barely existed. We lived in imposed<br />

intimacy. However, besides socialization<br />

with children, I also discovered<br />

loneliness as a boy. I wandered through<br />

the fields, walked down the canal slopes,<br />

entered shady groves, watched birds, small<br />

restless rodents, amphibians, insects, the<br />

colorful and wild world that conquered<br />

meadows and fields, and it showed itself<br />

to me as unusual and free, lonely and<br />

unsubmissive. Nature became lavishing<br />

in its shapes, in its laws and exceptions,<br />

I saw myself amazed by that rich and ungraspable<br />

mysteriousness of life.<br />

Close distances. I was insatiably curious<br />

as a boy, often confused when<br />

grown-ups wouldn’t give me an answer<br />

to my questions. I felt redundant.<br />

I discovered books in my grandfather’s<br />

house, on a green shelf, arranged by one<br />

of my uncles. A real treasure, from Pushkin,<br />

Chekhov, Dostoyevsky, Turgenev,<br />

to English and American short stories.<br />

My father’s library was dominated by<br />

Bruno Traven, with his Rebellion of the<br />

Hanged. From there, the voice of righteous<br />

ones woke me up and inspired me<br />

with compassion, sensitivity towards the<br />

despised ones.<br />

We were encouraged to write patriotic<br />

poems in school, but no one was able<br />

to explain me how to write free verse. It<br />

tortured me for several years when I was<br />

a boy. I knew how to use free verse, but<br />

didn’t know what it means.<br />

80 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

81


L I F E , N O V E L S<br />

With Russian<br />

writer Eduard<br />

Limonov<br />

With poet and<br />

philosopher Jean-<br />

Pierre Faye<br />

I read school poets and later, in the<br />

village library, as well as the City Library<br />

in Kikinda, I found numerous answers in<br />

the examples of great poets. I was feverish<br />

while reading Rimbaud, Baudelaire,<br />

Eliot, Pound, Pasternak, Saint-John Perse,<br />

Rene Char… Later I became seriously engaged<br />

in studying our poets. Late Dučić,<br />

surrealists, Crnjanski, Vasiljev. I shared<br />

my discoveries about art with my brother<br />

Dušan, who chose sculpture, without<br />

anyone teaching him about it in the village<br />

community. He later graduated at the<br />

Academy of Arts in Belgrade, and now<br />

lives in Paris.<br />

My youth was wired: I listened to the<br />

Beatles, Rolling Stones, The Troggs, The<br />

Hollies… I became a kind of a social rebel:<br />

sixty-eight shook me.<br />

The plain. It meant everything to me.<br />

The foggy and endless landscape was all<br />

I knew. Silhouettes, contours of groves,<br />

lonely houses, high edifices, mills; I<br />

watched the world that outlined the near<br />

and hid the distant one I was only about<br />

Echoes<br />

The other should not be apsolutized. However, a person who<br />

understands art, who is able to talk, is necessary for literature.<br />

There is no perfect reader, because a reader is, before all, from<br />

the writer’s point of view, a picture of an encounter of different visions<br />

and understanding of art. You must be sensitive and skillful<br />

to achieve such a position. I could say that I have the privilege to<br />

talk with extraordinary and friendly people about my new texts.<br />

My most intent reader is my wife Jovanka Nikolić, also writer, who<br />

has been helping me immensely for four decades now.<br />

to meet. My imagination burned while<br />

I strained to see events hidden behind a<br />

multitude of names marking village areas,<br />

to anticipate the wondrous meanings of<br />

distance, its relations with words; I invented<br />

histories that revealed the plain as an<br />

area full of human stories. It was a boyish<br />

romanticism, which made the world mysterious<br />

and attractive.<br />

However, I later saw the plain as a cultural<br />

emblem in many poems of poets<br />

from Novi Sad. It was a mark of literary<br />

conservatism, pathetic regionalism, which<br />

I rejected.<br />

Arrival. Novi Sad was not my choice. I<br />

was forced to it, because I didn’t succeed<br />

in enrolling in dramaturgy or philosophy<br />

in Belgrade.<br />

I read modern dramas at the time:<br />

Becket, Ionesco, Genet, Brecht, Sartre… I<br />

often visited the Kikinda theater, watched<br />

plays, talked, cooperated a bit. It seemed<br />

to me then that the theater is a powerful<br />

media of modern art. I showed that affinity<br />

towards theater later in Novi Sad as an<br />

occasional theater critic, and in the seventies<br />

I founded the festival of experimental<br />

theater Small Theater – Off Theater at the<br />

Youth Tribune.<br />

I came to Novi Sad with illusions, as well<br />

as a kind of realistic irony. I didn’t hope to<br />

meet Laza Kostić or Zmaj, let alone a romantic<br />

aesthetician or philosopher. It was<br />

not a city inclined to high culture, although<br />

in many ways it was one of the leading cultural<br />

centers in Yugoslavia. I was greeted<br />

by the famous poetic show-biz, from Antić<br />

82 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


to Zubac, a few official and confused journalists,<br />

shadows of omnipresent provincial<br />

politics, representatives of the local neoavant-garde,<br />

dominant in magazines, papers<br />

and tribunes at the time. I had my own<br />

interpretation of the avant-garde, I rejected<br />

its assimilation with politics, I especially rejected<br />

its dialectic exclusivity of art as art<br />

and their way of perceiving poetry. When<br />

you have such extreme concepts in a small<br />

city, from popular lyrics, fatal in its selflove,<br />

to the neo-avant-garde, supported by<br />

local descendants of communist favorites,<br />

which, in the name of progress, rejects you<br />

and throws you into scrap, there is nothing<br />

else to do but to patiently and almost<br />

furtively build your artistic position. At the<br />

same time, you cannot be certain whether<br />

your life project will have an opportunity<br />

to be realized.<br />

Overgrowing the city. I was editor in the<br />

Youth Tribune, then in Polja and “Svetovi”<br />

Publishing House. I didn’t choose bohemia<br />

as a way of life, which was more a grimace<br />

than culture, and there was too much of<br />

it in Novi Sad; or politics, which was then<br />

especially interested in controlling art and<br />

disciplining artists; or avant-garde enlightenment,<br />

which revolutionized art in order<br />

to cancel it. I chose caution, thinking as an<br />

artistic and social emancipation, doubting<br />

utopias and their kind violence, hiding regional<br />

narcissism and reducing entire reality<br />

to a measure of a few banally enlightening<br />

ideologists of the Party.<br />

At the Tribune, in Polja, “Svetovi”, we<br />

created a large culture of knowledge, understanding<br />

new thinking and art, from<br />

structuralism and poststructuralism to<br />

postmodernism. Novi Sad was a place<br />

where many new books were published:<br />

from Derrida, Foucault, Lyotard, Compagnon,<br />

to Rene Girard, Paul Veyne, Jacques<br />

Le Goff and many others; philosophers<br />

and writers came from all parts of Yugoslavia,<br />

France, Russia… It continued with<br />

the actual International Literary Festival of<br />

Novi Sad, which I founded ten years ago<br />

in the Literary Society of Vojvodina. There<br />

we have the elite of European and Serbian<br />

poetry, specially published in the magazine<br />

Golden Beam.<br />

All this was spiced with tensions, conflicts,<br />

disturbances, but the fact is that Novi<br />

Sad, after a long time, now has the elite<br />

of philosophers, critics, poets, from Dragan<br />

Prol, Alpar Lošonac, Damir Smiljanić,<br />

Vladimir Gvozden, to Zoran Đerić and<br />

others.<br />

I experienced moments of my romantic<br />

self-enlightenment in friendly conversations<br />

with late poet Milan Dunđerski,<br />

as well as in many encounters with poet<br />

Miodrag Pavlović, philosophers Milan<br />

Damjanović and Nikola Milošević, poet<br />

Ljubiša Jocić, philosophers Danko Grlić<br />

and Ivan Froht, orientalist Dušan Pajin,<br />

germanist Srdan Bogosavljević…<br />

This world. There are only presentations<br />

and constructions of worlds, which<br />

change and oppose one another. The mysterious<br />

bio-cosmic world is incomprehensible<br />

to us. As Wittgenstein would say: we<br />

don’t even know how a dog could feel like.<br />

With poet<br />

Stevan Raičković<br />

With writer<br />

Milorad Pavić<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

83


L I F E , N O V E L S<br />

84 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


Ours is the social world, it touches us<br />

most, the world of human groups and<br />

communities, which either accept or reject<br />

us. Forces of different wills and natures<br />

rule that world. What is most important<br />

to us is taken away from us with<br />

a force exceeding our own. The world is<br />

ruthless, our fascinations are naive and<br />

compensational in relation to, I believe,<br />

the general violence besieging us from all<br />

sides. Power is imposed instead of truth,<br />

goodness, happiness… Human power is<br />

none the less destructive than the one in<br />

the laws of nature. Compassion, emotions,<br />

myths of love save us from ruthlessness<br />

devouring everything.<br />

Before an abyss. The époque of great<br />

salvific and emancipative truths has ended.<br />

A human is before an abyss. Before<br />

an abyss of a cosmic catastrophe, in the<br />

form of exhausted potentials of the earth,<br />

or because of the unpredictable and fatal<br />

cosmic incident, or (in a better case)<br />

anthropological, humanist apocalypse.<br />

However, that doesn’t mean that their<br />

chances are null. Instead of great truths<br />

in the form of religious or secular utopias,<br />

we have small, locals myths about<br />

salvation. The general pattern has many<br />

names. The production of those small<br />

myths is endless. It creates possibilities<br />

for saving lost meaning, as well as the<br />

general decline of human ambitions to<br />

understand the world.<br />

The world of power is unscrupulous,<br />

elusive, constantly increasing its request<br />

to have everything subdued, to supervise<br />

and fatally control the human population.<br />

On its side are worlds of consumption,<br />

production, entertainment, calculating<br />

with nature, time, satisfaction, provisory<br />

measuring success in a general meaningless<br />

competition… while on its margins<br />

are thinking and art, which, with a measure<br />

of resistance, attempt to understand<br />

this horizonless presentation.<br />

European shadows. Europe is a large<br />

treasury of culture, as well as a great master<br />

of evil, as Paul Celan would put it. It<br />

unites, integrates, at the same time disciplining<br />

small states and participating in<br />

educational and military campaigns in<br />

the second and third world. The wisdom<br />

of Europe is the wisdom of the market,<br />

and where the market doesn’t function,<br />

leveling is done by force, European and<br />

Atlantic. Europe is bureaucratic.<br />

In the past, intellectuals contemplated<br />

on Europe and encouraged its critical<br />

spirit. Sartre, Camus, Cioran, Foucault,<br />

Habermas, Heinrich Bell… There are no<br />

such people today. When the old, coldwar<br />

Europe was torn down, there was a<br />

multitude of them. Now the job is probably<br />

completed and they are redundant.<br />

I cannot estimate whether Europe<br />

used to be better in the past, but I hope<br />

it will produce culture and art worth remembering.<br />

Choosing between united Europe and<br />

the Europe of nations, I’d choose the second.<br />

Europe of cultures and languages,<br />

not one culture and one language, which<br />

is where this continent is probably heading<br />

to.<br />

In the ocean of evil. It is hard to resist<br />

the impression that we are in an ocean of<br />

evil. Everything reaching us is shocking<br />

and related to evil. The circle doesn’t close<br />

with purification. The idealistic ancient<br />

ecstasy, which liberates and reconciles us<br />

with the forces of good, is missing.<br />

We will open the newspapers tomorrow,<br />

unless we gave up on everything, and<br />

encounter a new flood of evil, its restless<br />

invention. We see beheaded journalists on<br />

television and YouTube shown by fanatics;<br />

every day we watch pictures of massacres,<br />

catastrophes, animalistic devouring, together<br />

with sophisticated pornographic<br />

Gerard Cartier,<br />

Jovan Zivlak, Paol<br />

Kejneg, Matthew<br />

Sweeney<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

85


L I F E , N O V E L S<br />

With wife<br />

Jovanka Nikolić,<br />

John Harty and<br />

Neil McDevitt<br />

presentations of pseudo-ethical stars,<br />

politicians and rich people.<br />

Degradation. About ten years ago,<br />

after the approval of his friends to have<br />

their verses written on napkins, Michel<br />

Deguy cried that they shouldn’t allow the<br />

degradation of poetry. Market forces had<br />

a large impact on degrading literature,<br />

its trivialization, bringing it down to the<br />

area of production and fashion. Literature<br />

is becoming a field of applying the<br />

simplest patterns, accepting to be pure<br />

entertainment, a current event. It simulates<br />

conversation, a special form of cognition,<br />

accepts the principles of utilization<br />

and consumption, and exhausts itself<br />

in the production of trivial splendor. That<br />

is dominant.<br />

In circumstances in which market<br />

economy is lurking us on every corner,<br />

diversity is canceled. As Alain Kirby<br />

said, intellectually-wise, the world has<br />

narrowed, not expanded in the past decade.<br />

The ideology of globalized market<br />

economy is present in the place where<br />

Lyotard saw the dusk of great stories, as<br />

the single and omnipotent regulator of<br />

the entire social activity – monopolistic,<br />

comprehensive, omni-explainable, omnistructuring…<br />

Bridges, influences. That is vague.<br />

There are many books, authors, voices<br />

from other regions and genres, social incentives.<br />

Literature is not a controllable<br />

chemical element.<br />

I appreciated rebels, nonconformists,<br />

marginalists, as well as central personalities<br />

of an époque. I was fascinated by<br />

Pyrrho, because he denied everything,<br />

even reality; Diogenes, who despised social<br />

conventions; Catullus, the great poet;<br />

Baudelaire, the rebel; Pound, the poet<br />

with great misconceptions; Crnjanski…<br />

I liked winter, respected it as an author<br />

of the Pannonian landscape; echoes<br />

of voices reflecting from the meadow<br />

slopes; I respected my mother’s father,<br />

who believed in life, patience and enduring;<br />

my dog killed by the village hunters<br />

– that upset me for all times…<br />

Revelations and repetitions. Travels<br />

are often polemic. You argue with what<br />

was established as a cliché, try to discover<br />

a different, deeper reality. You deny prejudice,<br />

fears from the unknown, knowledge<br />

and beauty which do not exist.<br />

However, travels are not revelations any<br />

more. Everything is already seen and you<br />

will never be in a position of our famous<br />

travelogue writers Dučić or Velimirović,<br />

who were discovering a different reality.<br />

The world repeats and you cannot resist<br />

the impression that the images you are<br />

seeing were already seen and that reality<br />

is almost the same everywhere.<br />

Music<br />

My music is ecstatic, Dionysian. I don’t have time for light,<br />

simple, entertaining music. I like reflection in music, weight, darkness.<br />

Sometimes music irritates me, torments me, because it is<br />

requesting, asks a lot from us. One should be prepared, open for<br />

music. I listened to Scriabin, Arvo Part and Rene Aubry recently, a<br />

seemingly light and ironic composer.<br />

Of course, there are other kinds of music that evoke important<br />

social events or pictures of the culture I am related to, testifying<br />

about my boyhood and youth emotions, which echo in my<br />

soul like a plucked out word or sentence of a past life, the life of<br />

the community I belong to.<br />

Strength for writing. We are overtired,<br />

occupied, possessed. It is not possible to<br />

write in such a state. Writing requests<br />

openness, freedom, internal will to accept<br />

the world, to feel it and receive it with all<br />

its controversies. Both the external world<br />

and the one you are creating. Being ready<br />

to feel the shiver of a leaf, to sympathize<br />

and be motionless in order to dive into an<br />

event. In order for that to be possible, you<br />

must be strong to free yourself from the<br />

agonies of everyday life. <br />

86 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

87


P A L E T T E<br />

REGARDING THIS YEAR’S EXHIBITION OF SERGEI APARIN IN MONTREUX, SWITZERLAND<br />

Fortification<br />

in a Storm<br />

The world of power is unscrupulous, elusive and demands to subdue everything. The era of great salvific<br />

and emancipating truths has ended. Man is swinging over an abyss, in a performance without a horizon.<br />

Everything reaching us is shocking and related to evil. The circle does not close with purification,<br />

reconciliation with the good forces of life. Culture and art are humiliated, trivialized, fallen into the<br />

hands of barely average spirits and turned into seasonal serial production. We are overtired, occupied<br />

and possessed. However, that in no way means that Man’s chances are null<br />

By:<br />

Slobodan<br />

Despot<br />

It resembles a shower of meteors coming<br />

from nowhere, suddenly lighting<br />

up the sky. However, the world of<br />

Sergei Aparin was not unknown to the<br />

Swiss audience. Twenty-odd years ago,<br />

he was one of the shiniest stars in the<br />

constellation late Etienne Shatton gathered<br />

in his Museum of Fantastic Art located<br />

in the Gruyères castle. The place itself<br />

was magical, and Etienne’s fraternity<br />

elevated it to the fourth dimension, the<br />

one we perceive only in dreams. The curator-enthusiast<br />

gave his guests subjects<br />

they willingly illustrated – most often the<br />

castle itself. Thus we discovered how its<br />

medieval walls are reflected in the amazing<br />

visions of Patrick Woodroffe, Juri<br />

Siomash, Isabelle Plante and others.<br />

At the time, Aparin was a newly-arrived<br />

citizen of Belgrade, its suburb Zemun,<br />

to be exact, on the other side of the<br />

river. The Russian moved to Yugoslavia<br />

in the most difficult moment, in 1991, at<br />

the beginning of the forced breakdown<br />

88 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


of the country. He later formed a unique<br />

group of painters, dream hunters, with<br />

his neighbors Željko Tonšić and Mladen<br />

Đurović, in the old Austro-Hungarian<br />

town who forces people to daydream.<br />

Despite completely different styles, palettes<br />

and worlds, these three extraordinary<br />

artists built together a fortress far<br />

from the whirlpools of time. In the times<br />

of tragedies and uncertainty, as well as<br />

poverty, in which art suffers most, they<br />

defended amazing complexity and consistency.<br />

The strength of their aesthetic<br />

credo – timelessness and perfection – is<br />

certainly not unfamiliar to their longterm<br />

success. However, their fateful relation<br />

with the host of the upper chambers<br />

of the Gruyères castle should not<br />

be neglected. Ignoring cultural obstacles,<br />

worsened by the political crisis, Chatton<br />

preserved one of the rare true centers of<br />

exchange and dialogue between the east<br />

and the west of Europe.<br />

Pilgrims often climbed to Gruyères<br />

at the time, to dive into the unique surrounding,<br />

the visual songs, the bath of<br />

the youth of imagination, whose gates<br />

conserved the monsters of H. R. Giger,<br />

like guards from nightmares. At the<br />

end of this paved path, behind Woodroffe’s<br />

Shield of Mars and Shield of Venus,<br />

among the massive attic beams, a circle<br />

of devotees celebrated a timeless cult, in<br />

which ancient sights mixed with diodes<br />

and gear wheels of the age of space.<br />

Fantastic art resembled Catharism<br />

and Gruyères was its palace. This is<br />

where universal art lived, proclaimed a<br />

religious cult by some, popular art whose<br />

fame spontaneously spread among the<br />

audience. Its opponents, however, made<br />

their first task to hide the irrefutable<br />

and uncomfortable fact that the painters<br />

there, unlike many other famous<br />

contemporaries, can actually paint. They<br />

eternalized the technique of renaissance<br />

masters, showing great knowledge they<br />

refreshed the entire visual heritage of<br />

modern art, reviving the eternal symbols<br />

of our civilization. In brief, they personified<br />

tradition in the most contemporary<br />

forms. The living, organic tradition, not<br />

transferred with philosophical tractates,<br />

but with skill, spirit of the craft, silent<br />

compound of work and dream.<br />

IN THE BRANCHES OF TIME<br />

Among all those windows open towards<br />

other worlds, the precise forms<br />

and warm lights of Sergei Aparin stood<br />

out not only with their recognizable patina,<br />

but also with the atmosphere that<br />

destroyed borders between genres and<br />

smoothed his devastating virtuousness.<br />

Strange opposites united in his works: all<br />

pervaded with deep Slavic nostalgia, yet<br />

joyful, laughingly serious, tectonically<br />

“Three Little<br />

Bridges”, a triptych<br />

“Woman<br />

and Man from<br />

Chateau Gryeres<br />

(Loco Laudato)”, a<br />

diptych<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

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P A L E T T E<br />

Sergei Aparin<br />

in his studio in<br />

Zemun<br />

“Night. Sicily”<br />

airy. He carried Gruyères, as well as the<br />

entire archipelago of the old cities of Fribourg<br />

and the surrounding Heights, into<br />

a purely Aparin-like uchronia, in which<br />

these famous medieval monuments<br />

broke off from their earthly roots and<br />

sailed towards a weightless world. There’s<br />

Romont in a galley with sails and wheels.<br />

There’s Morat at night, flooded with horrible<br />

flying creatures. There’s Fribourg<br />

at dawn, crossed with a kind of a watch<br />

mechanism, on walls diving into black<br />

waters, who knows how deep. There is<br />

perhaps also the conductor of the entire<br />

phantasmagoria: the watchmaker from<br />

Biography<br />

Sergei Aparin was born in 1961 in the Russian city of Voronezh.<br />

He graduated from the Institute of Arts in 1981 in his<br />

hometown. During the following ten years (1981-1991), he<br />

painted and exhibited at group exhibitions in St. Petersburg,<br />

Kiev and Moscow. In 1991, he moved to the capital of Serbia. He<br />

left a deep trace in contemporary Serbian painting, and gained<br />

a reputation of a great master in international proportions. He<br />

exhibited throughout Europe and in North America. More information<br />

about him and reproductions of his paintings may be<br />

found at: www.aparin.com.<br />

Zug, wearing a mask without a face and<br />

Pierrot costume, showing the city-clock<br />

to the audience.<br />

The river of time accompanies the<br />

mentioning of nostalgia. Time – we’ll<br />

speak about it further – is the main dimension<br />

of Aparin’s work. Time dissolves<br />

space and time reconciles opposites. It<br />

seems to me that his diptych Woman and<br />

Man in the Gruyères Castle (1997), the<br />

hybrid and unhidden homage to Flemish<br />

portraits by Van der Weyden, Van Eyck<br />

or Robert Campin, best summarizes the<br />

Aparinian cosmogony of the time. The<br />

left hemisphere: a woman, whose ears became<br />

trees with a cow on the top of her<br />

skull. The right hemisphere: a man, serious,<br />

with a gear wheel between his fingers<br />

and the Gruyères castle on his forehead<br />

turned into a clock. On the left, Mother<br />

Nature, primordial, congenital, indolent.<br />

On the right, Man, worried, hieratic, technician<br />

and master of time. Above them<br />

– as in most of the “Swiss” works – the<br />

inscription Loco laudato: “cited in the approved<br />

place”, a Latin expression implying<br />

a blessing of a higher instance. Sud-<br />

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SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

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П А Л Е Т А / П А Л И Т Р А / P A L E T T E<br />

denly the painting becomes a fragment<br />

of a text. The Holy Testament, approved,<br />

meaning blessed… isn’t the ultimate<br />

wink addressed to God? Or the enraged<br />

demiurge, the artist himself, whom art<br />

gives infinite power? Be as it may, Aparin<br />

of the “classic” era consciously imagines<br />

his painting as a language, whose keys<br />

are not directly accessible.<br />

PURIFICATION AT LAKE GENEVA<br />

Twenty years later, Aparin returns<br />

to Romandy to write the second part<br />

of his tractate. The works exhibited in<br />

Montreux are very far from the ones we<br />

know. If it weren’t for the recognizable<br />

stroke of the brush, one would think of<br />

self-denial. Symbolism, omnipresent in<br />

the Gruyères series is almost absent in<br />

the Lavaux series or at least its most representative<br />

corpus. As if he wanted to be<br />

free from rules – including protections –<br />

of his ordinary genre, Aparin entered the<br />

daring search of the very basis of his art.<br />

The most visible testimony of it is the<br />

change of light: mystical shadows gave<br />

way to the great Provencal sun of Lake<br />

Geneva. Then comes the space: disappearance<br />

of the landscapes from dreams<br />

and entrance of recognizable geography.<br />

Finally the shocking reduction of determinants<br />

of time. The alchemist of clocks<br />

receded from the Dali-like watches and<br />

historical shortcuts. His chronological<br />

collisions now fit into the proportions<br />

of ordinary human life, the assimilation<br />

of tuberous and black silhouettes of old<br />

winegrowers into careless figures of contemporary<br />

consumer society.<br />

Did Aparin surrender to the Lake<br />

“fiacca”? He wouldn’t be the first who<br />

92 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


succumbed to it. Great writer and traveler<br />

Paul Morand, who spent the last<br />

part of his life in this region, compared<br />

the landscape of Lake Geneva with the<br />

most thrilling achievements of human<br />

spirit, such as the Taj Mahal. Byron and<br />

Shelly literally defined the aesthetics<br />

of romanticism while sailing Lake Geneva,<br />

enthralled by the horrific beauty<br />

of the Alpine peaks. In his contemplation<br />

of the measure and over-measure<br />

of modern civilization, Ramuz proclaimed<br />

the area as the measure of harmonious<br />

integration between man and<br />

his environment. Recently, the saving<br />

of Lavaux vineyards from the invasion<br />

of concrete caused severe battles, into<br />

which the famous ecologist and philanthropist<br />

Franz Weber invested his body<br />

and soul, including a physical confrontation.<br />

Why was this area finally enlisted<br />

under the protection of UNESCO,<br />

although it is located in one of the most<br />

developed and most densely populated<br />

areas in the world, if not due to its obvious,<br />

original and unquestioning beauty?<br />

The beauty originates, as nowhere else,<br />

from the exemplary cooperation and<br />

balance between Mother Nature and<br />

man – the architect of Time. A painter<br />

who came from afar had to be pretty<br />

audacious to dare to give his contribution<br />

to the rich iconography of Lake<br />

Geneva and Lavaux. From Bozione to<br />

Hodler, the continuous metamorphosis<br />

of the eternal, yet constantly changing<br />

waters had a hypnotic effect on the eye<br />

of artists, pushing them towards celebration<br />

of light and color. The enchanting<br />

glittering, framed with rhythmical<br />

and almost abstract shapes of the vineyard<br />

terraces and paths, disarms your<br />

“The Observer”<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

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P A L E T T E<br />

“Pilgrim street.<br />

Sfumato”<br />

“October.<br />

Pushkin”<br />

“The Runaway”<br />

“My Lighthouse”<br />

“The Watermill”<br />

mind in a way. It rocks you, so to say,<br />

into hedonism. Thus impressionist and<br />

agnostic elements growingly emerge in<br />

Aparin’s works. At the final outcome of<br />

this research, a simple shadow of leaves<br />

on a wall takes mystical sensuality and<br />

reminds of the mannerism of the Nabi<br />

school. The air and sea motifs of painters<br />

find an appropriate theater in the<br />

Lake Geneva area. Although the new<br />

geographical frame implies introducing<br />

a new palette and experimental techniques,<br />

the main subjects remain in their<br />

most subtle form. A simple strand across<br />

a water abyss is sufficient to introduce us<br />

into mystery. The vineyard paths, merged<br />

with the blueness of the sky, seem to<br />

turn the cobble into cascades: could the<br />

most reliable surfaces be merely fluid illusions?<br />

Old-time workers-wage earners<br />

dive out from the memory of a recent<br />

past, solid as rocks. A documentary processing<br />

of a black and white portrait emphasizes<br />

the cruelty of their life. They are<br />

there, very close, two generations before<br />

us, although their civilization is as alien<br />

to us as Atlantis. A simple encounter of<br />

color and black and white cause us vertigo<br />

over that abyss. Aparin no longer<br />

needs clocks or gear wheels to depict the<br />

tyranny of time.<br />

ART WITHOUT EPITHETS<br />

Progress or breakup? The answer is<br />

obvious and such obviousness helps us<br />

notice a linguistic misunderstanding. The<br />

concept of “fantastic art”, usually related<br />

to Aparin’s works, is in fact just a pleonasm.<br />

From the moment depiction of<br />

reality implies the sight and hand of an<br />

artist, it belongs to fantastic art, whatever<br />

genre it otherwise belongs. Sergei Aparin’s<br />

Lake Geneva phase therefore more<br />

resembles maturing than reversal. It testifies<br />

about art freed from its epithets to<br />

concentrate on the essence.<br />

I visited Aparin once in his studio in<br />

Zemun, bathing in light. I saw sketches,<br />

variations, even white canvases waiting<br />

for the first stroke of the brush. I admired<br />

the remarkable plastic work on<br />

materials, on the subject of horse’s head.<br />

I also noticed palettes of dark shades.<br />

Then it burst before my eyes: this aerial<br />

painter levitates above his own technique<br />

and matter. Whether symbolic<br />

or empiric, oneiric or naturalistic, his<br />

work is an expression of a wondrous<br />

gift and rare ideal. Whatever he does in<br />

the future, Aparin’s eyes will always look<br />

upwards, towards great masters and towards<br />

the skies. <br />

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SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

95


W I N N E R<br />

96 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


MARINA MALJKOVIĆ, COACH OF THE SERBIAN WOMEN’S BASKETBALL NATIONAL<br />

TEAM, EUROPEAN CHAMPIONS<br />

Doing Your<br />

Best and More<br />

She grew up in a famous coach family, lived in many countries. She was attracted by acting,<br />

photography, languages. People noticed how deep she was in basketball only after she took her Belgrade<br />

team to the First League. Later she climbed to the European throne with the Serbian women’s national<br />

team. She knows how to renew her own inner balance and invokes the best in people. She is happy to<br />

know her country and because people understand the basis of the feat of the team she is leading. She<br />

lives the spirit of kafanas and old songs. Honor is a nice term among Serbs, which describes them clearly<br />

By: Aleksa Komet, Dejan Bulajić<br />

She was permeated with the impressions<br />

about the world as an elixir ever<br />

since she was little, feeling that in the<br />

multitude of challenges stands the one tailored<br />

exactly to her needs. She anticipated,<br />

although she never talked about it, that she<br />

must be ready when her moment comes. She<br />

knew that she would recognize it and not<br />

allow it to pass her by.<br />

– Considering that I lived in many<br />

countries and that we often changed our<br />

place of residence, I was full of impressions<br />

about different things. It seemed to<br />

me that everything is at the reach of the<br />

hand, so my interests kept changing: I<br />

was attracted by acting, photography, languages<br />

were always challenging. Besides<br />

all that, I was always into basketball, but<br />

I couldn’t even assume that it would become<br />

my direction in life. Some things<br />

simply happen beyond our expectations.<br />

If one said that it was logical that someone<br />

in the family would become infected with<br />

basketball, everyone would first think of<br />

my brother. However, he took a different<br />

path, while something happened to me<br />

and permanently related me to this sport.<br />

Children who grow up in sports families<br />

sometimes feel tired because of the intensity<br />

of living. This, however, was not the case<br />

with Marina.<br />

– It would be an easier way, but it’s not<br />

me. Looking from the side, life in such<br />

families seems easy and careless. I admit<br />

that my parents did everything so that my<br />

brother and I would have such a feeling,<br />

but, at the same time, there were reflexes<br />

burdening me. Each time we would move,<br />

I would feel strongly nostalgic for Belgrade.<br />

Perhaps my parents felt it, so they<br />

often brought us here and persistently<br />

insisted that we keep in touch with close<br />

friends, our culture and language. I am<br />

grateful for it today. The rhythm of frequent<br />

moving house and from places you<br />

have just got used to is strenuous, but it<br />

finally determines some features of your<br />

character features and makes you get accustomed<br />

to changes as something inevitable<br />

in life.<br />

Entering the area of professional coaching<br />

determined a direction which quickly led<br />

to success, with triumphs coming one after<br />

another.<br />

– It really is an unusual story. I almost<br />

didn’t know what defeat looks like. From<br />

the moment I set the objective to enter the<br />

First League with six girls in “Ušće”, to “He-<br />

Photo:<br />

Guest’s archive<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

97


W I N N E R<br />

mofarm” and “Partizan”, victories and titles<br />

came one after another. Even the objectives<br />

of the national team were multiply surpassed<br />

at the very beginning, because our<br />

plan was to become one of the best teams<br />

only in a few years. It sometimes scares me,<br />

but also motivates me to achieve even more.<br />

I consciously took that path and I am happy<br />

for every challenge awaiting me.<br />

MYSTERIES OF LONGEVITY<br />

The strength of her character was best expressed<br />

in collective sports, always burdened<br />

by the specific features of those participating<br />

in it.<br />

– The first objective you set before you<br />

is to win something and then to repeat<br />

the same success. It is a kind of mystery of<br />

longevity. Basketball sets strict conditions,<br />

which are not always related to sport. I<br />

have a group of twelve girls and the same<br />

number of different characters. My task<br />

is to recognize them, to take out the best<br />

from them and make them believe in what<br />

I request from them. Whether my team<br />

will resemble my wishes and ideas is up<br />

to me. That makes the gold we won at the<br />

European Championship even more precious,<br />

because we showed that we can do<br />

it, with the strength of our spirit, will and<br />

talent. We now have a new objective – to<br />

repeat our success and perhaps even make<br />

a step further, because challenges will not<br />

be the same, just like we are not the same<br />

anymore. It is up to me to strengthen<br />

those girls, enriched with a wonderful experience,<br />

into a fighting unit, ready to go<br />

from the beginning and fight till the end<br />

with the same vigor.<br />

Coaches know well how requesting working<br />

in a sports team is.<br />

– It is so intensive that you simply have<br />

to try to rest along the way. My principle of<br />

working is such that sometimes even colleagues<br />

from male basketball are astonished<br />

by the intensity of my trainings. I consider<br />

it normal, but I also understand my need,<br />

as well as the need of my players, to take a<br />

break. Wherever I work, I find myself time<br />

and a place to rest, which is something I<br />

advise them to do as well. Without that, the<br />

exhaustion would be unbearable. I cannot<br />

imagine my working week without at least<br />

one day break. If I’m in Serbia, it is often<br />

a trip out of Belgrade, going into nature,<br />

to recharges my batteries. You simply have<br />

to find a retreat, perhaps even be alone, to<br />

keep yourself in balance. Without that, you<br />

cannot last long.<br />

Working with girls is very specific and<br />

creates an additional burden.<br />

– Luckily, I can speak about it according<br />

to my clear personal experience, since<br />

I also worked with seniors in “Ušće”. For<br />

me it was incomparably easier than working<br />

with women. They are simply more requesting,<br />

with specificities about which I<br />

could talk for days. Sometimes I joke, but it<br />

is actually very serious, and say that I will<br />

rest when I move to male basketball.<br />

We can expect it in the future.<br />

– I have no problem with that. My only<br />

task is to kick out Sonja, Jelena, Ana and<br />

other players from my head and transfer to<br />

the male story. That’s all. I consider myself a<br />

98 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


professional able to cope with such a challenge<br />

and it’s only a matter of time when<br />

it will happen.<br />

THAT’S MY FATHER, BOŽIDAR<br />

Someone might assume that father<br />

Božidar, famous basketball coach, was seriously<br />

involved in Marina’s career. However,<br />

surprisingly, it is not so.<br />

– In the true sense of the word, he discovered<br />

how deep I was in basketball only<br />

when I entered First League with “Ušće”.<br />

He was surprised and not very thrilled<br />

with my decision to become a coach too.<br />

He, of course, didn’t agree, wanting mainly<br />

to protect me from all negative impulses<br />

of this job. However, with only one<br />

unwavering sentence, I made clear how<br />

determined I was to stay in it. The profile<br />

of my character is such that it doesn’t<br />

allow external influences, while his character<br />

is such that he can recognize and<br />

respect the reality of others’ decisions, so<br />

there were no further misunderstandings.<br />

The first and last time he was at one of my<br />

games was in 2007, when we won the Cup<br />

in Subotica, my first trophy. However, I<br />

know that he suffers during all my matches.<br />

For the finals, when we won European<br />

gold, he smoked so many cigarettes, although<br />

he’s not a smoker, and trembled<br />

from anxiety so much, that even his old<br />

friends couldn’t recognize him. At the<br />

end he started crying, because he knows<br />

how I felt better than anyone. That’s my<br />

father, Božidar.<br />

However, there is no sleeping on laurels.<br />

– When we won European gold, I asked<br />

myself: what now? How to give something<br />

new to Serbian basketball? The answer was<br />

in the decision to start from the beginning,<br />

from the very basics, so I established<br />

the Movement for Women’s Basketball<br />

with my friends, with the main aim to give<br />

girls an opportunity to train basketball for<br />

free, to gain first experiences and perhaps<br />

discover their talent. Through all this, they<br />

will also gain healthy living habits, which<br />

is perhaps most important. All this is already<br />

functioning well in Belgrade, and<br />

now it will begin spreading throughout<br />

Serbia. I am proud to be part of something<br />

like that, because I am amazed with the intelligence<br />

of our children, their agility and<br />

readiness to adjust in difficult situations.<br />

I spent a large part of my life abroad and,<br />

believe me, I didn’t often come upon similar<br />

examples in the world. I am happy to<br />

know my country and feel its needs. I try<br />

to give it my sincere feelings and my most<br />

daring wishes.<br />

My Country<br />

– Needless to say how close I am to my country. I am fully<br />

aware that I can do something good for it through my work and<br />

be assured that there is no obstacle that could keep me from giving<br />

my best on that way. The feeling that I have succeeded in it<br />

is inexpressible. I have already experienced the famous balcony,<br />

which only the best have climbed, experienced seven thousand<br />

people in “Pionir” at a women’s basketball game, which was almost<br />

unthinkable until recently. Thousands of our people came<br />

to support and greet us at the finals in Budapest. That is a huge<br />

satisfaction and fulfillment of the deepest wishes in the life of a<br />

sportsman or coach!<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

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W I N N E R<br />

How much is that appreciated?<br />

– The fact that many people understand<br />

the essence of our success means a lot to<br />

me. We won European gold not only because<br />

we were good, but mainly because of<br />

a big heart and our willingness to leave the<br />

last drop of our strength on the court. It’s<br />

not only a question of sports motivation,<br />

but also of human ethics. You either have<br />

it or not. The wish to sacrifice yourself for<br />

something and someone, without sparing<br />

yourself. I wish many people would look up<br />

to our female basketball players, because it<br />

is a fact that numerous people among us are<br />

not doing enough neither for themselves,<br />

nor for their country. Without that, you<br />

cannot achieve what you are expecting, let<br />

alone think about any higher achievements.<br />

ISN’T THAT LOVE?<br />

Marina is also curious about life outside<br />

of sports, but doesn’t have enough time for all<br />

her wishes.<br />

– I was captured by theater in my school<br />

days and I enjoy watching plays, but, unfortunately,<br />

my obligations are preventing<br />

me from doing it more often. The love for<br />

scene arts exists in my family, because my<br />

brother is in the movie industry, while I’m<br />

enchanted by theater. I have to say I’m sorry<br />

we don’t show more appreciation for our actors.<br />

They are our real treasure and I know<br />

how much they are respected in the world.<br />

We, unfortunately, remember them only<br />

when they leave us, which often happened<br />

recently, so I wish they would finally get the<br />

place they deserve. Poetry is something I<br />

also enjoy. Its emotions, harmony and sincerity<br />

it expresses. I like to discover it in the<br />

world that surrounds me, whatever it’s like.<br />

Kafana table, the sound of strained cords<br />

and a bit of bohemian spirit in the soul…<br />

– It makes me happy. I love kafanas and<br />

the spirit that can only be found in them,<br />

even in old, poor inns. Sometimes I wish<br />

to challenge the musicians with songs that<br />

Lika in My Heart<br />

– It is an integral part of the story of my life. It lives within me<br />

as the homeland of my family, and there is no mystery in it, because<br />

I was raised to love and respect what is mine. I spent a big<br />

part of my childhood in Lika. I love those people, I like to have<br />

them beside me, to see them at different meetings we organize.<br />

That will last for a long time.<br />

cannot be heard anymore, I could even<br />

compete with them with the number of<br />

songs I know. Sometimes people ask me<br />

whether kafana songs can describe me.<br />

Even if they can, it’s not one, two or three<br />

songs, but much more. It is a reflection<br />

of my being, the wish to surrender to the<br />

emotions kafanas invoke and enjoy it, sincerely<br />

and uninhibited. Of course, when I<br />

have time for such things.<br />

While we are discovering her, it becomes<br />

clear that Marina, besides all her opponents,<br />

will always remain the greatest challenge to<br />

herself.<br />

– People in France cannot believe the<br />

degree of my dedication to work. I tried to<br />

explain them that I don’t need a controller,<br />

monitoring the amount of my work,<br />

because there are other criteria that mean<br />

more to me. The attitude about the seriousness<br />

and responsibility of what I am doing<br />

is deeply rooted in me. When I’m aware that<br />

I have given my best, I’m calm and relaxed.<br />

This is what I ask from my players: to give<br />

their best and try a step further, and then,<br />

even if we don’t succeed, I will congratulate<br />

them. Being honorable in your work means<br />

giving honor to your life. Honor is a nice<br />

term among us Serbs and very clearly describes<br />

who we are and the way we are.<br />

The Olympic Games are ahead of us.<br />

– Many people are unrealistic in their<br />

expectations, after the successes we have<br />

achieved up to now. It is a feature of our<br />

character and we will try to fight it. You<br />

know, my girls are like children going to<br />

Rio with experienced champions. Thanks<br />

God, we have them on our side, starting<br />

with a fantastic tennis player, who is a role<br />

model to all of us, brilliant shooters, athletes,<br />

water polo players and many others.<br />

My task is to return the team to the level<br />

we have been at the beginning. To give<br />

our best without burdens, but also without<br />

complexes. I know that we won’t be embarrassed,<br />

because we have a big heart, but I<br />

don’t even want to start the story about<br />

medals and similar things, because it can<br />

easily become frivolous.<br />

Those who condemn themselves to walking<br />

towards the heights, have difficult steps<br />

and strained breath in their chest ahead.<br />

But…<br />

– Isn’t that the meaning and point of<br />

life? Isn’t that the purpose of our existence?<br />

Finally… isn’t that love? <br />

100 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

101


В Е З Е / С В Я З Ь / C O N N E C T I O N S<br />

102 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


160 th ANNIVERSARY OF THE BIRTH OF THE FAMOUS SCIENTIST<br />

Tesla’s<br />

Time Machine<br />

This artistic spectacle in Knez Mihailova Street was donated by the company “Telekom<br />

Serbia” to the delighted Belgradians and guests of the capital. With image and sound,<br />

4D technology the most important moments in life and discoveries of this great science were evoked.<br />

Virtual Nikola Tesla himself addressed the Belgradians from the wall of the Institute “Cervantes”.<br />

This fusion of high technology and art inspire young scientists to continue following Tesla’s<br />

steps through knowledge and innovation<br />

intention of the inventor is<br />

basically to save lives. Whether<br />

it tames forces, perfects de-<br />

“The<br />

vices, or provides new comfort and ease,<br />

he contributes to the safety of our existence.”<br />

With these wise words, the virtual<br />

Nikola Tesla addressed the gathered citizens<br />

of Belgrade from the facade of the<br />

Institute “Cervantes” in Knez Mihailova<br />

Street, which served as the set design in<br />

the project called “Tesla’s Time Machine”.<br />

This artistic spectacle in Knez Mihailova<br />

Street was donated by the company “Telekom<br />

Serbia” to the citizens of Belgrade<br />

and its visitors in earl May, celebrating<br />

160 th godišnjice anniversary of the birth<br />

of famous scientists.<br />

“Tesla’s Time Machine”, with image and<br />

sound, managed to evoke the most important<br />

moments in life and discoveries of the<br />

brilliant inventor. In a unique multimedia<br />

spectacle, Nikola Tesla leads us, with his<br />

own words, through his own scientific<br />

creation, as well as through the process of<br />

giving birth to an idea, which then turns<br />

into invention. His entire life, from early<br />

childhood, in which he learned the basics<br />

of logical thinking from the father,<br />

through migration abroad, to the first inventions<br />

and major development projects,<br />

is shown in this innovative 4D projection.<br />

– Nikola Tesla has left an indelible<br />

mark in science, and this art project pays<br />

homage to this great man who gave us<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

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C O N N E C T I O N S<br />

the legacy of his revolutionary discoveries.<br />

In accordance with our core activity,<br />

“Telekom Serbia” seeks to promote in this<br />

way timeless scientific achievements in<br />

this field, as well as the contributions of<br />

our scientists who, through their actions,<br />

indebted the entire world – says Predrag<br />

Ćulibrk, General Manager of the company.<br />

“Telekom Serbia” is continuously committed<br />

to the promotion of science, and<br />

the goal of the project “Tesla’s Time Machine”<br />

is to provide support to innovation,<br />

through a combination of modern technology<br />

and art, and give inspiration to<br />

new, future scientists.<br />

– Thanks to his advanced ideas, Tesla<br />

has provided us with global connectivity,<br />

modern way of life and communication<br />

between people, and these are the visions<br />

that “Telekom Serbia” shares with great<br />

Nikola Tesla – Ćulibrk added.<br />

Even the place where the projection<br />

was displayed – Knez Mihailova Street, in<br />

front of the building of Serbian Academy<br />

of Sciences and Arts – carries a certain<br />

symbolism, because during his only visit<br />

to Belgrade in 1892, Tesla stayed in the<br />

hotel “Imperial” which was located not far<br />

from there, between the current Faculty<br />

of Philosophy and Kapetan Miša’s Building..<br />

Although he did not stay long either<br />

in Belgrade or in Serbia, he always emphasized<br />

his Serbian origin and was proud of<br />

his roots, his mother Georgina and father<br />

Milutin, an Orthodox priest. On one occasion<br />

he said: “I have, as you see and hear,<br />

remained a Serb, even overseas where I do<br />

experiments. You should also be that, and<br />

with your knowledge and work you should<br />

raise the glory of Serbia in the world. There<br />

is something in me that can also be a deception,<br />

as often happens with young enthusiastic<br />

people, but if I am lucky to realize<br />

at least some of my ideals, it will be for<br />

the benefit of all mankind. If my hopes are<br />

fulfilled, my sweetest thought will be this –<br />

that this is a work of a Serb.”<br />

THE VISIONARY PROJECT<br />

OF “TELEKOM SRBIJA”<br />

Thousands of people watched the premiere<br />

of this multimedia spectacle in Knez<br />

Mihailova Street, as well as live broadcast<br />

via “Facebook”, “YouTube” and portal<br />

“Mondo”. The interest in this event was<br />

growing by the hour, both at the place of<br />

the event, and on social networks. During<br />

the three days of screenings, Belgradians<br />

and its visitors had the unique opportuni-<br />

104 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


ty to enjoy the multimedia spectacle created<br />

from 4D mapping. This new graphics<br />

technology brings to life static objects by<br />

means of animation and sound, creating<br />

a unique feeling of monolithic buildings<br />

growing into a picturesque canvas on<br />

which to depict digitally shaped collages.<br />

Aleksandar Protić, the Director of the<br />

Tesla Memorial, as a great expert in life<br />

and work of this genius, provided the scientific<br />

basis for the realization of “Tesla’s<br />

Time Machine”.<br />

– The visionary project of “Telekom<br />

Serbia” wants to bring the memory of<br />

Nikola Tesla close to our contemporaries<br />

precisely by using technologies that are<br />

part of his legacy. The cutting-edge technology<br />

was used as an instrument that<br />

intends to create much more far-reaching<br />

impact: educational, memorial and<br />

inspirational. Nikola Tesla is not only a<br />

synonym for creativity, innovation and<br />

invention, but also for reconciliation and<br />

for the continuous struggle for justice<br />

and freedom. Telecommunications, from<br />

Tesla’s perspective, are only one form of<br />

communication that is to connect people<br />

and serve their individual and collective<br />

maturing – Aleksandar Protić points out.<br />

In his book Nikola Tesla’s Road of Peace,<br />

Protić says that “Tesla is one of the few<br />

scientists who dedicated himself to the realization<br />

of peace in a very tangible way,<br />

developing inventions that could prevent<br />

wars. In this way, he offered to mankind,<br />

today unfortunately almost forgotten, ideal<br />

of a scientist who feels and knows that<br />

true scientific progress could never, and<br />

must not be separated from the good and<br />

the beautiful. This is the most precious<br />

Tesla’s message to mankind. If it is understood<br />

in its unique depth and power, and<br />

if it becomes an integral part of the education<br />

of young people, mankind may be<br />

ready to make seven miles steps.”<br />

After Belgrade, in the upcoming period,<br />

“Tesla’s Time Machine”, will continue<br />

its journey in Novi Sad and Niš. s<br />

Supporting Science<br />

With its socially responsible activities, the company “Telekom<br />

Serbia” supports science, on the one hand nurturing promoting<br />

the image and legacy of our scientists, and on the other hand<br />

by investing in young generations and innovative projects. “The<br />

Virtual Museum of Nikola Tesla”, “Mihajlo Pupin Virtual Museum”,<br />

and “mts Android competition” are just some of the projects with<br />

which “Telekom Serbia” promotes the development of thought<br />

and scientific approach in finding answers to contemporary<br />

challenges.<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

105


С Л А В И Ј А / С Л А В И Я / S L A V I J A<br />

106 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


THE SIXTH “DAYS OF SLAVIC LITERACY AND CULTURE” IN RUMA<br />

Codes of<br />

Intimacy<br />

Old<br />

Slavs should re-strengthen the awareness of the unity of their own cultures and common cultural<br />

roots. And gatherings of this kind provide a true support for this and raise hopes for better days.<br />

The Municipality of Ruma and the local City Library “Atanasije Stojković” will continue to<br />

provide their full contribution to this. This year, the topics were Slavic mythology, Russian avant-garde,<br />

Dragiša Vasić and “The Brothers Karamazov”, and all this was augmented by band “Zvonica” from<br />

Omsk, which nurtures musical traditions of Siberian Cossacks<br />

By: Mile Vajagić<br />

For years, the “Days of Slavic Literacy<br />

and Culture” have been standing<br />

out among the cultural events<br />

in Srem, for their quality. They are held<br />

traditionally every year at the end of May<br />

in Ruma, and are dedicated to promotion<br />

of culture, art and philosophy of all<br />

Slavic peoples. Special emphasis is placed<br />

on literary production in twelve Slavic<br />

countries.<br />

This year’s event, from 20 to 27 May,<br />

also had several sub-sections, and those<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

107


S L A V I J A<br />

an event was important not only for Ruma<br />

or Srem, but also for our country. Ruma is<br />

a good place for such an important event<br />

because it has a beautiful cultural and civic<br />

tradition, although the city itself is not older<br />

than 400 years.<br />

HOPE AND CULTURAL HORIZONS<br />

Vocal group<br />

“Zvonica” from<br />

Omsk, Russia<br />

Photo:<br />

“Foto Star”<br />

who love culture enjoyed the film, music,<br />

literary and philosophical achievements of<br />

Slavic peoples.<br />

The participants were prominent representatives<br />

of the academic community<br />

and experts in the rich Slavic cultural heritage.<br />

The topics were Slavic mythology,<br />

Russian avant-garde, and there were reminders<br />

of some unjustly forgotten names<br />

of Slovenian Slavic. Thus, prof. Dr. Milo<br />

Lompar spoke about the topic of “Dragiša<br />

Vasić and Russian literature”. Great attention<br />

was attracted by the lecture “The<br />

Brothers Karamazov” by prof. Dr. Dragan<br />

Stojanović. Special topic was devoted to<br />

Sergei Yesenin, one of the most important<br />

Slavic poets from the first quarter of the<br />

20 th century, and his poetry and personality<br />

were presented by prof. Dr. Miodrag J.<br />

Sibinović.<br />

– The intention of the organizers was to<br />

position even more strongly this event on<br />

Serbian and Slavic cultural map this year,<br />

and to enhance promotion of their city<br />

and municipality – says Želјko Stojanović,<br />

Director of the City Library “Atanasije<br />

Stojković”, the institution that is the founder<br />

of this event. – When, six years ago, we<br />

decided to launch the “Days of Slavic Literacy<br />

and Culture”, we thought that such<br />

Novel<br />

The literary contest of Ruma City Library “Atanasije Stojković”<br />

for the first and previously unpublished novel has been announced<br />

recently. Last year, twenty three novels were submitted<br />

at the contest, and this year, in all likelihood, the interest will be<br />

even greater. The library is obliged to publish the winning novel<br />

and cede to the author a certain number of copies of the book.<br />

The contest is open until the end of September.<br />

– Events such as the “Days of Slavic Literacy<br />

and Culture” bring back hope that<br />

culture can expect to have much better<br />

days. We must be looking forward to everything<br />

that pushes the boundaries of our<br />

knowledge and raises our spiritual horizon<br />

on a higher level. If we give up on the basis<br />

of our tradition and culture, then we have<br />

no future other than that of mere consumers<br />

– said literary critic Mileta Aćimović<br />

Ivkov at the opening ceremony.<br />

Marija Stojčević, Deputy Mayor of<br />

Ruma, said that the “Days of Slavic Literacy<br />

and Culture” are the pride of this city<br />

and the region:<br />

– Appreciating the true cultural values,<br />

we will continue to support culture and its<br />

elevation to a higher level. I am sure that in<br />

the coming years this event will draw the<br />

attention of true cultural public.<br />

All participants emphasized that the<br />

Slavs themselves needs to rediscover their<br />

deep codes of closeness and togetherness,<br />

their unique culture and common cultural<br />

roots. And gatherings of this kind contribute<br />

most directly to this.<br />

This year, the “Days of Slavic Literacy<br />

and Culture” were attended by guests<br />

from abroad. The opening ceremony was<br />

adorned by Russian band “Zvonica” m<br />

Omsk, which nurtures the musical tradition<br />

of the Siberian Cossacks. Last summer,<br />

the ensemble of folk dances and songs<br />

“Branko Radičević” from Ruma performed<br />

in Orel, in the European part of Russia, at<br />

the International Folklore Festival “Eagle<br />

Mosaic”. Contacts were established<br />

then, which led to this nice performance<br />

of “Zvonica” in Ruma. In addition to the<br />

“Days of Slavic Literacy and Culture”,<br />

“Zvonica” also had concerts in the Russian<br />

Cultural Center in Belgrade, in Sremska<br />

Mitrovica, Hrtkovci and Putinci. For<br />

guests from Omsk, which is five thousand<br />

kilometers away from Ruma, a city tour<br />

and visit to monasteries of Fruška Gora<br />

were organized. s<br />

108 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


INSTITUTION STUDENTS’<br />

RESORT “BELGRADE”<br />

Business Unit “Radojka Lakić” on Avala<br />

Build on the foundations of a building from the late 1930’s, it is at the<br />

same time the seat of the Institution of Students’ resort “Belgrade”. It<br />

is located on the most beautiful part of the mountain of Avala, on the<br />

outskirts of the capital of Serbia. After it was demolishes in 1999, during<br />

the aggression of the North Atlantic Pact against Serbia, the entire building<br />

was restored gradually. Today it is one of the most modern students’ resorts<br />

in this part of Europe. It provides excellent accommodation, food and the<br />

entire range of other services to students, as well as third party users.<br />

It consists of two parts:<br />

New building “Avala”<br />

On a surface area of 5.357 square meters, it has 158 beds. It has a<br />

restaurant with 200 seats, a conference room with 150 seats, seminar room<br />

with 2x30 seats, and summer garden with 200 seats.<br />

Annex<br />

Its capacity is 73 beds in double and triple rooms. It has a restaurant<br />

with 180 seats.<br />

General Ždanova 201, 11226 Belgrade<br />

011 3907 946 • 011 3907 947 • recepcija.avala@usob.rs • www.usob.rs


З Д Р А В Љ Е / З Д О Р О В Ь Е / H E A L T H<br />

110 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


NEW AMENITIES IN “MERKUR’S” SPA CENTER “ROMAN WELL”<br />

The Primeval<br />

Power of<br />

Water<br />

Hydro-massage therapy, symbolically named “Shower 7”, is a treatment with water jets produced by<br />

the seven jets above the patient. Beneficial effects are numerous, from deep massage to improving<br />

circulation, detoxifying and skin renewal<br />

Spa Center “Roman<br />

Well” is a central spa facility,<br />

“Merkur’s”<br />

dedicated to all the guests<br />

and residents of Vrnjačka Banja. The largest<br />

and officially the best Medicinal Spa<br />

Center in the Balkans, brings together in<br />

its offer the cutting-edge equipment with<br />

superior medicine and centuries-old tradition<br />

of treatment with Vrnjačka mineral<br />

water.<br />

Continuous development and improvement<br />

of spa services has been the<br />

guiding principle of “Merkur’s” management<br />

in the last decade, when the concept<br />

of wellness has been conceived as an element<br />

of healthcare program. This spring,<br />

the Spa Center “Roman Well” was again<br />

enriched with new amenities.<br />

Starting from the idea that water is<br />

the source of life and the basis of health,<br />

essential to everyone and anytime, the<br />

novelty introduced by the Spa Center<br />

“Roman Well” a novelty in Spa Center<br />

Combining<br />

Special effects are achieved by combining<br />

hydro-massage with compatible<br />

treatments that exist at the “Lili” Massage<br />

Center within the Spa Center. Increasing<br />

the effects of treatment and absorption<br />

of nutrients, it perfectly combines with<br />

peels, packs and mineral mud baths.<br />

“Roman Well” is a hydro-massage therapy,<br />

symbolically “Shower 7”.<br />

“Shower 7” is the treatment with jets<br />

of water produced by the seven macro<br />

and micro jets placed above the patient.<br />

The patient is lying on the bed so that the<br />

water covers his whole body, namely the<br />

body is at all times shrouded in thin and<br />

warm jets of water. The power of water<br />

works like rain, with optimum pressure<br />

and appropriate temperature, it relaxes<br />

the muscles, and has relaxing effect on the<br />

nervous system.<br />

Water jets also act as a deep tissue<br />

massage, which improves blood circulation<br />

and detoxifies the body, creating a<br />

high level of muscle and whole body relaxation.<br />

Mechanical action is based on the hydrostatic<br />

pressure which encourages the<br />

lymphatic and venous circulation. The increased<br />

blood flow during hydro-massage<br />

enables a much better supply of the skin<br />

and subcutaneous tissue with nutritious<br />

elements and oxygen, which accelerates<br />

cell renewal and development, and results<br />

in good and healthy look of the skin.<br />

More intensive use of hydro-massage<br />

contributes also reduces cellulite. It stimulates<br />

the formation of collagen in cells,<br />

which leads to increased skin elasticity<br />

and reduction of wrinkles. It improves<br />

skin hydration. s<br />

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111


C E N T E R S<br />

CAMP OF THE INSTITUTE OF SPORT NEAR KLADOVO<br />

New Upswing<br />

of “Karataš”<br />

It was formerly used for accommodation of the builders of Hydro<br />

Power Plant “Đerdap I”, then as a youth volunteer brigade village.<br />

Today, under the management of the Institute for Sport and Sports<br />

Medicine of Serbia, with strong support from the government,<br />

“Karataš” has been developing into a modern sports center, one<br />

of the leaders in the South Slavic region. In addition to what is<br />

necessary for the preparation of top athletes, it will make available<br />

everything that the users of the Institute in Belgrade have, from the<br />

sports medical examinations to psychological and motor testing<br />

112 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


Youth camps throughout Serbia were<br />

once a favorite gathering place of<br />

students during school trips, scouts<br />

and various sports and recreational clubs.<br />

Today, most of them are devastated and<br />

abandoned. One of the few that survived,<br />

but whose fate was highly uncertain until<br />

two years ago, is certainly Youth Camp<br />

“Karataš” at the outskirts of Kladovo.<br />

Built in the sixties, “Karataš” was used<br />

for accommodation of the builders of<br />

Hydro Power Plant “Đerdap 1 and later<br />

for the participants of youth work camps,<br />

working on development and protection<br />

of the Danube coastal areas from the<br />

dam to Kladovo. Over time, the camp has<br />

grown into a sports center for the preparation<br />

of junior teams. However, the crisis<br />

of the 1990’s, and long-term neglect and<br />

lack of investment in maintenance, led to<br />

deterioration of the entire infrastructure<br />

and all facilities of the camp.<br />

With the decision of the Government<br />

from 2014, sports camp “Karataš” was given<br />

to the use of the Institute for Sport and<br />

Sports Medicine of the Republic of Serbia.<br />

This marks a new era in the development<br />

of this camp.<br />

Under the management of the Institute,<br />

Sports Camp “Karataš” slowly puts on its<br />

new clothes. With the full support of the<br />

Government of Serbia, and the significant<br />

funds allocated by the Ministry of Youth<br />

and Sports and the Institute, the first phase<br />

of reconstruction of the camp was completed<br />

in 2014. A new accommodation pavilion<br />

and a gym with a stretch hall were<br />

built, while two sports courts and a 1,200<br />

meters jogging track were rebuilt.<br />

Preparations are underway for the second<br />

phase of the reconstruction, within<br />

which two more accommodation pavilions<br />

will be built and four sports co-<br />

Heritage Within Reach<br />

From “Karataš” one can visit the Tabula Traiana, with which<br />

the famous Roman emperor perpetuated the construction of the<br />

road from Belgrade through the Iron Gate, to the place where in<br />

the second century he built the famous bridge on the Danube.<br />

There is the Diana Zanes fortress, erected on the bank of the Danube<br />

during the reign of Emperor Trajan. At the site Glamija there<br />

are remains of two forts from the 4 th and the end of the 6 th century.<br />

Let us also mention Fetislam fortress, the Church of St. George<br />

in Kladovo, the Monastery of the Holy Trinity, Manastirica, Đerdap<br />

Archaeological Museum and many other attractions.<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

113


C E N T E R S<br />

urts refurbished. In the next three to<br />

four years, when the reconstruction of<br />

facilities is completed, the Sports Camp<br />

“Karataš” will shine brightly. It will be a<br />

modern sports center, the best one in the<br />

South Slavic region. This center will be<br />

able to provide everything necessary for<br />

accommodation and preparation of not<br />

only top athletes, but also junior teams<br />

and amateurs.<br />

BIG PLANS, AWARENESS<br />

OF THE SIGNIFICANCE<br />

All services that are available to athletes<br />

in the complex of the Institute in<br />

Belgrade will be available to everyone<br />

who staying in “Karataš”. Athletes will be<br />

able to undergo sports and medical examinations,<br />

psychological and motor testing,<br />

and these services will be provided by top<br />

experts of the Institute with years of experience.<br />

Interestingly, the camp is located near<br />

the Danube, along cycling route “Euro-<br />

Velo 6”, which extends from the Atlantic<br />

to the Black Sea and runs through the<br />

Iron Gate. That is why there is increasing<br />

number of foreign tourists who pass<br />

through Serbia by bicycle and want to<br />

stay for a while in “Karataš”.<br />

Athletes and tourists staying in “Karataš”<br />

will also have at their disposal a rich<br />

tourist offer of this region, complemented<br />

by a host of archaeological sites and natural<br />

and cultural monuments.<br />

Pursuant to the new Law on Sports<br />

from February 2016, the Institute for<br />

Sport and Sports Medicine of the Republic<br />

of Serbia received the status of a national<br />

training center. This way, the Institute<br />

acquired the exclusive right to, within<br />

its capacities, enable top athletes and<br />

young talents to have continuous training<br />

and preparation, both in the complex of<br />

the Institute in Belgrade, and at the Sports<br />

Camp “Karataš”.<br />

Government has big plans for “Karataš”,<br />

just like the Ministry and the Institute.<br />

There is a clear awareness that investment<br />

in “Karataš” is actually an investment in<br />

the future of sport in Serbia. Hence the<br />

persistent effort to implement these plans,<br />

step by step. s<br />

114 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


J U B I L E E<br />

SIXTIETH ANNIVERSARY OF BELGRADE BUSINESS SCHOOL<br />

Tradition<br />

that Obliges<br />

With the ceremony that will take place on 29 June 2016, which will gather a number of reputable domestic<br />

and foreign guests, the School will celebrate its Great Jubilee. More than 120,000 students has graduated<br />

from it thus far, and are now working successfully in various sectors of the economy and the state<br />

By: Prof. Dr. Đuro Đurović<br />

With the realization of the policy<br />

of continuous improvement of<br />

the quality of education and<br />

implementation of the process for the implementation<br />

of quality system standards<br />

in this jubilee year, the management and<br />

all employees in the best possible way are<br />

showing not only their loyalty to tradition,<br />

but also a strategy for further development<br />

of schools, improvement of the<br />

image and marking this significant anniversary.<br />

Resisting the numerous pressures<br />

and negative influences from some sections<br />

of society, in which devaluation of<br />

the real values and the education system is<br />

evident, Belgrade Business School invests<br />

great effort and manages to position itself<br />

on the educational map of Serbia as the<br />

unsurpassable leader in the region in the<br />

field of applied vocational education.<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

115


J U B I L E E<br />

Since its inception, 60 years ago, to date,<br />

it has been successfully linking and coordinating<br />

higher education in the field of business<br />

education with modern requirements<br />

of economy and society, always giving new<br />

answers to old questions. Focusing on domestic<br />

and global trends in the multidisciplinary<br />

field of science, the School keeps<br />

promoting the concept of applied studies<br />

and dual education, developing skills and<br />

abilities of students required for practical<br />

work. Recognizing the importance of practical<br />

knowledge and experience for further<br />

professional development of its students,<br />

and the need for their professional advancement<br />

during the studies, the School has been<br />

building a dual system, thus developing a<br />

fruitful cooperation with successful companies<br />

and enterprises. In this way, it allows its<br />

students to have professional practice, fully<br />

efficiently directing them for their future<br />

professional career and fully prepares them<br />

for the labor market. On this road and to<br />

this end, cooperation was establish, among<br />

others, with leading financial institutions<br />

such as the National Bank of Serbia and the<br />

Belgrade Stock Exchange, where in April of<br />

this year, ninety of our students attended<br />

and successfully completed the interactive<br />

educational course “Technical and Fundamental<br />

analysis with simulation of trading”,<br />

where they obtained certificates of education<br />

in stock exchange operations in Serbia.<br />

This and all other activities in teaching<br />

and in student internships, contribute fully<br />

to the raising of the level of professional<br />

qualifications of students and, of course, the<br />

reputation of Belgrade Business School, as a<br />

leader in business education.<br />

THE POWER OF FEEDBACK<br />

In line with its tradition, the School<br />

continues keeping pace with European<br />

Honor<br />

Aware of the fact that visual identity is important for improvement<br />

of the overall quality, it is necessary to refurbish the facade<br />

and area in front of the School, as well as the teachers’ room,<br />

which will bear the name of the former director of the College of<br />

Economics (the precursor of Belgrade Business School), Professor<br />

Nebojša Potkonjak, as the most deserving for the construction<br />

of the impressive buildings of the existing school building in the<br />

city center. Also, as a sign of gratitude and respect towards the<br />

late professor and director, we will also mount a commemorative<br />

plaque in the lobby of the building.<br />

trends, contemporary tendencies and<br />

changes, and has been successfully putting<br />

on a professional path of business education<br />

a large number of students. A special<br />

confirmation of the quality of its work is<br />

the fact that over 120,000 graduates of this<br />

school has work, and is still successfully<br />

working today in Serbia and achieving<br />

outstanding business results. In addition,<br />

12,000 students who are now studying at<br />

the School within seven study programs<br />

of undergraduate studies and three study<br />

programs of specialist studies, show unabated<br />

interest and intellectual curiosity<br />

to complete their study exactly at Belgrade<br />

Business School. In line with this is also the<br />

power of feedback we receive from the labor<br />

market, from companies and organizations<br />

that employ our students, as exceptional<br />

staff, which makes us proud.<br />

The year behind us was marked by numerous<br />

events, among other things a series<br />

of public lectures by prominent professors<br />

and experts from the country and abroad,<br />

as well as the round table organized by<br />

our school. Attendance at the lectures and<br />

round tables testify about the significance,<br />

heterogeneity and relevance of or topics,<br />

and students’ interest confirms this. Also,<br />

in April this year the School was the logistical<br />

and technical support to the European<br />

Association of Institutions in Higher<br />

Education (EURASHE), which organized<br />

its 26 th annual conference entitled “Centers<br />

of cooperation striving for excellence: professional<br />

higher education and the world<br />

of work”. The conference was attended by<br />

150 representatives of vocational schools<br />

from Europe and about 70 representatives<br />

of vocational colleges in Serbia. Eight of<br />

our female students, with teachers of English<br />

and IT, presented the School in the<br />

best possible way and received recognition<br />

from the organizers and participants<br />

for their work. It is therefore not surprising<br />

that the generation enrolled 2015/2016<br />

academic year is the best for success in the<br />

history of this School. Grade point average<br />

of students enrolled in the past year is 3.53<br />

which means that very good students are<br />

studying in our school.<br />

FOR CLEAN AND BRIGHT IMAGE<br />

Respecting tradition and fostering the already<br />

built values, we turn to the future and<br />

in this regard, special emphasis is placed on<br />

116 SRBIJA • BROJ <strong>55</strong> • 2016.


teaching-educational process, extending<br />

the concept also to the Master vocational<br />

studies, for which we have submitted an<br />

application and we expect accreditation for<br />

the next school year.<br />

Also, we have been preparing for accreditation<br />

of specialized studies in Marketing<br />

Management and Public Administration,<br />

as well as for re-accreditation of<br />

existing programs. In addition to this, we<br />

have been expanding cooperation with<br />

academic institutions in our country in<br />

order to provide our students, who have<br />

such abilities and interests, with the possibility<br />

to continue their studies at one of<br />

the faculties, as well as the agreement on<br />

business-technical cooperation with the<br />

Academy of Novi Sad, where our students<br />

from the study program Public administration<br />

(our vocational lawyers) would<br />

continue their studies at the fourth year<br />

of the Faculty of Law, an accredited unit<br />

in Belgrade. We will continue to deepen<br />

and expand the existing international<br />

cooperation we have developed with a<br />

number of educational institutions from<br />

Germany, Russia, China, Italy, Austria,<br />

Macedonia (...) in order to implement,<br />

according to our capabilities, good quality<br />

educational concepts of developed<br />

educational systems. I emphasize that our<br />

vocational economists can, also under<br />

the agreement on cooperation, continue<br />

their studies at the Faculty of Economics<br />

– UTMS Skopje, where a number of our<br />

students have already successfully completed<br />

their studies.<br />

In addition to the aforementioned<br />

events, activities and aspirations, we<br />

should also mention the friendly and completely<br />

legitimate approach to the material<br />

and financial values of the school. This is<br />

reflected in the streamlining of operations<br />

and cost savings that have been achieved<br />

in the last two years, in order to ensure<br />

stable and efficient education system that<br />

will, in the long term, be competitive in the<br />

market and maintain its leading position.<br />

We must stress the duty and obligation of<br />

compliance with high ethical standards by<br />

the teachers and all employees of Belgrade<br />

Business School, because academic integrity<br />

must be the first rule of business and<br />

activities of the School. We owe it to the<br />

society as serious and responsible people,<br />

and I personally owe this to all the staff,<br />

because I promised during the elections<br />

to maintain pure and bright image of Belgrade<br />

Business School!<br />

I take this opportunity to congratulate<br />

to all employees and students this great<br />

and important jubilee, with the desire for<br />

the School to continue its successful work<br />

and celebrate many more jubilees. s<br />

(The author is the Director<br />

of Belgrade Business School –<br />

College of Vocational Studies)<br />

SERBIA • N O <strong>55</strong> • 2016<br />

117

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