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Viva Brighton Issue #45 November 2016

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FOOD<br />

...........................................<br />

The Great British Charcuterie Co.<br />

The perfect place for pedant-provoking paella<br />

The morning I went out shopping for ingredients for the paella I’d planned to<br />

cook, I heard on the news that Spanish chefs were up in arms about Jamie Oliver<br />

using chorizo in his paella recipe. They thought this was sacrilege, because it’s<br />

not the done thing over there.<br />

I thought I’d stand up for libertarian cookery values then, and make a pilgrimage<br />

to the Great British Charcuterie, in the Marina, to get some British chorizo: this<br />

smart new store, which has just opened in that mini shopping plaza behind Asda, only sell British-made meats,<br />

cheeses and wines, and they stock a paprika-infused sausage from North Chailey.<br />

It’s my first visit, and it’s great fun browsing their shiny new shelves and trying out cocktail-stick tasters of their<br />

various products, including Highland Wagyu biltong, Hampshire-made Camembert-style cheese, and Charcoal<br />

Cheddar. Charcoal Cheddar! Apparently a little bit of burnt wood is good for your belly.<br />

Inevitably I leave with much more than just the chorizo: I buy a black-rinded ball of said black cheese (£5.20),<br />

some seaweed-and-cider salami (made in Cornwall, £4 per 100g) and a bottle of red wine, made in Plumpton<br />

(£9.95). I’ve never carried a more exotic bagful of British wares.<br />

And the paella? I fry the chorizo in oil (with some chicken thighs), and it does exactly what the Spanish version<br />

does: oozes out some lovely spicy fat for the rice to soak up later, while maintaining enough taste in its body to<br />

keep as part of the mix. A hit, then: and ya-boo-sucks to Spanish-food pedants. Alex Leith<br />

Photo by Alex Leith<br />

ENGLISH’S OF BRIGHTON<br />

Restaurant & Oyster Bar<br />

SAY ‘VIVA ENGLISH’S!’<br />

TO YOUR WAITER<br />

WHEN YOU NEXT VISIT OUR RESTAURANT<br />

AND GET A FREE GLASS OF PROSECCO!<br />

FREE<br />

GLASS OF<br />

PROSECCO<br />

NEW AUTUMN MENU<br />

OFFER AVAILABLE UNTIL DEC 1ST<br />

englishs.co.uk<br />

29-31 East Street, <strong>Brighton</strong>,<br />

East Sussex, BN1 1HL

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