Viva Brighton Issue #45 November 2016
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FOOD<br />
...........................................<br />
The Great British Charcuterie Co.<br />
The perfect place for pedant-provoking paella<br />
The morning I went out shopping for ingredients for the paella I’d planned to<br />
cook, I heard on the news that Spanish chefs were up in arms about Jamie Oliver<br />
using chorizo in his paella recipe. They thought this was sacrilege, because it’s<br />
not the done thing over there.<br />
I thought I’d stand up for libertarian cookery values then, and make a pilgrimage<br />
to the Great British Charcuterie, in the Marina, to get some British chorizo: this<br />
smart new store, which has just opened in that mini shopping plaza behind Asda, only sell British-made meats,<br />
cheeses and wines, and they stock a paprika-infused sausage from North Chailey.<br />
It’s my first visit, and it’s great fun browsing their shiny new shelves and trying out cocktail-stick tasters of their<br />
various products, including Highland Wagyu biltong, Hampshire-made Camembert-style cheese, and Charcoal<br />
Cheddar. Charcoal Cheddar! Apparently a little bit of burnt wood is good for your belly.<br />
Inevitably I leave with much more than just the chorizo: I buy a black-rinded ball of said black cheese (£5.20),<br />
some seaweed-and-cider salami (made in Cornwall, £4 per 100g) and a bottle of red wine, made in Plumpton<br />
(£9.95). I’ve never carried a more exotic bagful of British wares.<br />
And the paella? I fry the chorizo in oil (with some chicken thighs), and it does exactly what the Spanish version<br />
does: oozes out some lovely spicy fat for the rice to soak up later, while maintaining enough taste in its body to<br />
keep as part of the mix. A hit, then: and ya-boo-sucks to Spanish-food pedants. Alex Leith<br />
Photo by Alex Leith<br />
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englishs.co.uk<br />
29-31 East Street, <strong>Brighton</strong>,<br />
East Sussex, BN1 1HL