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glenviewlantern.com Dining Out<br />
the glenview lantern | December 29, 2016 | 21<br />
Yanni’s brings a modern take on Greek food to The Glen<br />
Courtney Jacquin<br />
Contributing Editor<br />
If you leave Yanni’s<br />
hungry, you’re doing it<br />
wrong.<br />
The Glenview restaurant,<br />
managed by seasoned<br />
restaurant veteran Andy<br />
Kalyviaris, is a little like<br />
going to your grandma’s<br />
house for Sunday supper,<br />
if your grandma is a<br />
world-class chef.<br />
Yanni’s opened in October,<br />
taking over the old<br />
space of Jameson’s Charhouse<br />
in The Glen Town<br />
Center.<br />
Kalyviaris and his family<br />
owned the original Yanni’s<br />
in Arlington Heights,<br />
which served upscale Mediterranean<br />
food for 13 years<br />
from 1999–2012, but after<br />
a changing of ownership<br />
and closure, Kalyviaris and<br />
his team decided it was<br />
time to bring Yanni’s back.<br />
“When that all happened,<br />
we thought it might<br />
be nice to bring it back,<br />
and we saw demand in the<br />
area,” Kalyviaris said.<br />
The new Yanni’s is upscale<br />
yet comfortable,<br />
with a modern interior that<br />
Kalyviaris says is “what<br />
you would see in today’s<br />
Greece.”<br />
What Kalyviaris stressed<br />
as the most important distinction<br />
for the restaurant<br />
was its focus on fresh and<br />
quality ingredients. All<br />
chicken is organic, hormone-<br />
and antibiotic-free<br />
meat is used in all dishes<br />
and seafood is fresh daily,<br />
including Gulf shrimp and<br />
octopus from Spain. Classic<br />
Greek fare such as the<br />
Spanakotiropita (spinach<br />
pie), moussaka and pastitsio<br />
are made fresh to order,<br />
while many Greek restaurants<br />
typically prepare<br />
them a sheet pan at a time.<br />
Because of the focus<br />
on freshness, the menu,<br />
while filled with both hot<br />
Yanni’s<br />
2601 Navy Blvd.,<br />
Glenview<br />
(847) 832-9000<br />
yannis-greek.com<br />
4:30–10 p.m.<br />
Tuesday–Thursday<br />
4:30– 11 p.m. Friday–<br />
Saturday<br />
Noon–9 p.m. Sunday<br />
and cold appetizers, salads,<br />
fresh fish, kabobs and<br />
Greek specialties, isn’t as<br />
large as typical Greek offerings.<br />
The menu also<br />
comes with a warning: supplies<br />
may be limited. For<br />
Kalyviaris, he would rather<br />
tell a customer something’s<br />
sold out for the night than<br />
give them sub-par quality.<br />
While Kalyviaris is<br />
the face, the men behind<br />
the food are Kostas Anyfantis<br />
and Charles Bowman.<br />
Anyfantis is a native<br />
Greek who was trained in<br />
Athens, and Bowman was<br />
the original chef at Yanni’s<br />
who returned from a job in<br />
New York to head up the<br />
kitchen at the new venture.<br />
When 22nd Century<br />
Media came to try a sampling<br />
of what Yanni’s had<br />
to offer on a frigid December<br />
night, we tried just<br />
about everything and the<br />
kitchen sink.<br />
For starters, the standout<br />
items include pikilia<br />
kria ($12) and marides<br />
($13).<br />
Pikilia kria is a trio<br />
of three dips: tzatziki, a<br />
yogurt-based spread with<br />
cucumber and dill; taramosalata,<br />
a caviar mousse with<br />
olive oil and lemon; and<br />
melitzanosalata, a roasted<br />
eggplant spread. The taramosalata<br />
was similar in<br />
consistency and taste to<br />
hummus, but more sophisticated.<br />
The dips are served<br />
with crostini, but also pair<br />
well with the restaurant’s<br />
homemade bread. The taramosalata<br />
and melitzanosalata<br />
are also available on<br />
their own for $8 each.<br />
The marides, lightly<br />
floured fried smelts, are<br />
served with a tangy garlic<br />
spread call skordalia. The<br />
smelts are crispy, bite-size<br />
and addictive. Similar in<br />
taste and texture to popcorn<br />
shrimp, but better.<br />
In other pre-entree options,<br />
Yanni’s offers four<br />
salads. The maratho salata<br />
($8) includes thinly sliced<br />
fennel, pomegranate seeds,<br />
pine nuts, tarragon and<br />
dill, tossed in an olive oil<br />
and lemon vinaigrette and<br />
topped with feta. The sweet<br />
pomegranate seeds add an<br />
unexpected, but welcome<br />
layer to the salad. The salads<br />
can also be turned into<br />
a heftier meal by adding<br />
chicken ($8), salmon ($10)<br />
or shrimp ($14).<br />
Pastitsio ($16) is a<br />
Greek lasagna made with<br />
ground lamb and beef,<br />
macaroni noodles and bechamel<br />
sauce. It’s baked<br />
to order in a souffle dish<br />
and oozes with flavor. It’s<br />
thick, heavy and ideal for a<br />
cold winter night.<br />
The youvetsi, braised<br />
lamb with orzo, also deserves<br />
mention for the tender<br />
lamb in a red sauce.<br />
On of the restaurant’s<br />
most popular dishes is the<br />
solomos exochiko ($26),<br />
salmon baked in filo dough<br />
with spinach and feta. It’s<br />
similar to spinach pie, but<br />
a thick piece of salmon<br />
adds a unique touch and<br />
puts an elevated spin on a<br />
typical wrap or sandwich.<br />
The kota lemonati agriomanitaria<br />
($18), chicken<br />
breast with wild mushrooms<br />
sauteed in olive oil,<br />
lemon and white wine is<br />
similar in taste to chicken<br />
piccata.<br />
But it wouldn’t be a<br />
meal without dessert. Yanni’s<br />
has a rotating dessert<br />
menu of four to five options<br />
at $8 each. While options<br />
vary, there are usual<br />
favorites available daily.<br />
The classic option is<br />
baklava, with layers of<br />
chopped nuts and filo<br />
dough drizzled with honey.<br />
For the more adventurous,<br />
however, the Greek<br />
yogurt mousse is the way<br />
to go. Served with a tomato<br />
marmalade and mint<br />
syrup, upon description it<br />
sounds like a savory dish,<br />
but it’s refreshing and<br />
lightly sweet without being<br />
overpowering, a light<br />
way to end a big fat Greek<br />
meal.<br />
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Solomos exochiko ($26), a wrap consisting of salmon<br />
baked in filo with spinach and feta, is one of the most<br />
popular dishes at Yanni’s, located at 2601 Navy Blvd. in<br />
The Glen Town Center in Glenview. Sarah Haider/22ND<br />
CENTURY MEDIA<br />
&<br />
Above specials cannot be combined with any other offer.<br />
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847.699.9999<br />
1740 Milwaukee Avenue (at Lake Ave.) Glenview<br />
No Limit