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TIMELY<br />

TARGETED<br />

EFFECTIVE<br />

Feeding Havana: The Alamar Organic Farm provides subsidized meals to workers<br />

use that does not use antibiotics, fertilizers,<br />

genetically modified organisms, growth<br />

hormones, or pesticides—has become an<br />

increasingly attractive option for consumers<br />

in the United States and Europe. Cuba<br />

already exports some organic produce to<br />

Europe, but is banned from doing so to<br />

U.S. markets.<br />

Buoyed by the rapprochement<br />

initiated by former U.S. President Barack<br />

Obama, however, numerous U.S. agricultural<br />

groups have sent fact-finding<br />

missions to Cuba, and Cuba’s organic<br />

farming sector has hosted visits from<br />

both the U.S. Agriculture Coalition for<br />

Cuba (USACC) and the Organic Trade<br />

Association. “There could be a huge<br />

market in the U.S. for organic produce<br />

from Cuba,” says Paul Johnson, co-chair<br />

of the USACC. “Unfortunately, this will<br />

not happen until exceptions are made to<br />

the U.S. embargo, or until the embargo is<br />

altogether lifted.”<br />

One of the big hurdles that remains<br />

There could be a huge<br />

market in the U.S. for organic<br />

produce from Cuba<br />

Paul Johnson, co-chair of the USACC<br />

is that Cuba’s land remains 80 percent<br />

government-owned, and current U.S.<br />

policy—even with exceptions—bans the<br />

import of any good that is not produced<br />

by a private enterprise.<br />

Ironically, one byproduct of Cuba’s<br />

recent tourist boom —2016 was a record<br />

year for the island, hosting 4 million<br />

visitors—is causing something of a new<br />

food crunch, even as it brings much needed<br />

cash to the island. Local markets for<br />

Cuban citizens are being drained of the<br />

best produce, which is being snatched up<br />

by palaldares (private restaurants) to feed<br />

hungry visitors in tourist-heavy neighborhoods<br />

in Havana and other cities.<br />

“Today you certainly have an opportunity<br />

to grow the national production of<br />

food to feed that new market [of tourists],”<br />

says Margarita Fernandez. “But<br />

there is a risk that organic food produced<br />

on the island is going to be targeted to the<br />

tourist sector.”<br />

Even so, people like farmer Salcines<br />

López argue that the phenomenon of organic<br />

farming in Cuba has given it a sense<br />

of self-sufficiency that has been absent<br />

in a country which still imports 70 to 80<br />

percent of its food needs.<br />

“There are still mechanical problems<br />

and bureaucratic problems, of course,” Salcines<br />

López says, walking past a majestic<br />

ceiba tree, its branches covering a broad<br />

road near Alamar’s tower blocks, its roots<br />

festooned with objects (candles, chicken<br />

bones) indicating it as a place of veneration<br />

for Cuba’s santería religion. “Here,<br />

organic farming arises out of necessity<br />

and, make no mistake, this farm has had a<br />

profound social impact.” H<br />

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