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CubaTrade-April2017-FLIPBOOK

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A Dubai theme: The Fombellida household has freshly painted white walls and shiny black-and-white tile floors<br />

Left: Angel Pupo Rosa and his wife Maria Mercedes Oliveros at their home near Vedado. Right: An adjacent home under construction.<br />

Three blocks from Havana’s iconic Hotel Nacional seems<br />

like an unlikely place for a Cuban who emigrated to the<br />

U.S. during the periodo especial to open a casa particular, or<br />

private lodging. But that gamble appears to be paying off, because<br />

Jesús Fombellida and his wife Yusimi say they’ve been welcoming<br />

a steady stream of visitors since opening their doors in November<br />

2016.<br />

“It’s been so busy,” said Fombedilla said from the living room<br />

of his recently renovated two-bedroom apartment. “We rarely<br />

have days where we aren’t booked.”<br />

The Fombellidas are among thousands of Cuban families<br />

riding a recent wave of prosperity in Cuba’s casa particular industry.<br />

While Cuban families have opened their homes to tourists<br />

for decades, recent U.S.-Cuba policy changes have allowed<br />

homeowners to welcome more American visitors by using San<br />

Francisco-based hospitality giant Airbnb to take reservations.<br />

Those changes, along with the Cuban government’s willingness<br />

to allow entrepreneurs to play a larger role in the tourism<br />

sector, mean that private homes now account for about 25 percent<br />

of Cuba’s available accommodations, according to a recent<br />

Brookings Institution report. Former President Barack Obama<br />

acknowledged that achievement by inviting Airbnb CEO Brian<br />

Chesky on his historic 2016 visit to Cuba. During that trip,<br />

Obama applauded Chesky for making the island Airbnb’s fastest-growing<br />

market. It was a promising message for a high-tech<br />

company that’s been operating in a country with limited internet<br />

access for only about two years.<br />

While those numbers are encouraging for entrepreneurs, the<br />

Fombellidas know from personal experience that starting and<br />

maintaining a casa particular requires a lot of grunt work. Nearly<br />

every task—from financing renovations, to booking guests, to<br />

buying supplies—requires additional steps and workarounds to<br />

complete.<br />

“It’s not easy, but it’s possible,” he said.<br />

GETTING IT OFF THE GROUND<br />

Unlike many Havana tourist accommodations, nothing in<br />

the Fombellida household looks like it was made in the ‘50s. The<br />

home has freshly painted white walls, shiny black-and-white tile<br />

floors, black faux-leather sofas, flat-screen TVs, and frilly silk<br />

duvets covering each bed.<br />

But perhaps the most unusual part of the apartment is its<br />

offbeat theme: Dubai. Felt posters of the Middle Eastern city<br />

adorn several walls, and nearly every table has glass models of the<br />

iconic Burj Khalifa skyscraper.<br />

Even a quick glance of the apartment should tell visitors that<br />

close to nothing inside the apartment comes from Cuba.<br />

“Nearly everything was purchased outside [of Cuba],” said<br />

Fombellida, explaining that he bought nearly all his furniture<br />

and appliances in Panama’s Colón Free Trade Zone and had it<br />

all shipped to the island. As for the Dubai souvenirs, he says his<br />

son brought them back from his frequent travels there. “I myself<br />

have never been to Dubai,” he said with a chuckle, while wearing<br />

a Dubai hat.<br />

It’s difficult to find good quality materials<br />

and products here. You need to find products<br />

in Panama and Mexico<br />

Angel Pupo Rosa<br />

Buying and shipping products from Panama is prohibitively<br />

expensive for most Cubans, but Fombellida is no ordinary Cuban.<br />

He left the island on a balsa for the United States in 1994 to<br />

escape the economic crash that followed the Soviet Union’s collapse.<br />

He eventually made his way to New York, where he earned<br />

a living as an apartment building manager. During his time in the<br />

U.S., he kept in close contact with friends and family back home,<br />

and made frequent visits to the island. Maintaining those ties<br />

allowed Fombellida to fall in love with his wife Yusimi.<br />

Several years ago, Fombellida permanently returned to the island,<br />

begging the question of why somebody would leave the comforts<br />

of the United States to go back there. “To be with his wife, of<br />

course,” said Yusimi Fombellida, answering the question herself.<br />

While the Fombellidas are fortunate enough to be able<br />

to use American-earned dollars to spruce up a casa particular,<br />

many Cubans look elsewhere to finance home construction and<br />

remodeling projects.<br />

Retired engineer Angel Pupo Rosa and his wife Maria<br />

Mercedes Oliveros—friends of the Fombellidas—asked their<br />

daughter in Italy to help pay for renovations to their casa particular.<br />

A quick look at their five-room colonial-style home makes it<br />

clear that it wasn’t cheap.<br />

After learning that the second floor of the building where<br />

they lived was crumbling, Rosa and Oliveros bought and renovated<br />

the entire second floor. This involved doing some construction,<br />

remodeling all the bathrooms, painting walls, modernizing amenities<br />

and buying furnishings. Rosa says the entire project cost<br />

about CUC 50,000—roughly US$58,000. A considerable portion<br />

of that money came from his daughter through wire transfers or<br />

in-hand deliveries.<br />

“It’s difficult to find good quality materials and products here,”<br />

said Rosa. “You need to find products in Panama and Mexico.”<br />

The result of their investment is a casa particular that offers<br />

guests a taste of what upper-class homes in Cuba were like before<br />

the Revolution—an ambience found at historic hotels such as the<br />

Saratoga and Nacional for a much steeper price.<br />

“It has a balance of modern and classic,” Rosa said.<br />

60 CUBATRADE APRIL 2017<br />

APRIL 2017 CUBATRADE<br />

61

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