Times of the Islands Summer 2017

TIMES
OF THE
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER 2017 NO. 119
ISLANDS
THE SURF STOKE
Rare & wonderful
FLAGS UP!
Provo Golf Club turns 25
TELLIN’ TALES
Songs and stories from South

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contents
Departments
6 From the Editor
13 Getting to Know
Lovey Forbes
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos By Tom Rathgeb
50 Real Estate
Provo Golf Club
By Kathryn Brown, ERA Coralie Properties
62 Crossing Africa Update
Compiled By Claire Parrish
Photos By Mario Rigby
66 Food for Thought
Chillin’ in the Grove
Story & Photos By Dominique Rolle,
Caya Hico Media
70 Faces & Places
Big Bin Competition
Story & Photos By Claire Parrish
72 About the Islands/TCI Map
77 Where to Stay
79 Dining Out
81 Subscription Form
82 Classified Ads
Features
18 Tales from South Caicos
By Oliver Mills
36 Surfin’ TCI
By Ben Stubenberg
44 If These Flags Could Tak
Story & Photos By Tim Cotroneo
Green Pages
25 Tree of Death
By Eric F. Salamanca, Bryan Manco,
John Claydon and Kathleen Wood
Photos By Eric F. Salamanca
29 A Botanical Collaboration
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco
32 The Good Shark
By Dr. Aaron C. Henderson & Camilla Smith
Photos By Camilla Smith
Astrolabe
52 As Time Goes By . . .
Story & Photos By Séamus Day
56 The First One
By Candianne Williams ~ Historical Photos
Courtesy Bengt Soderqvist
4 www.timespub.tc
TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER 2017 NO. 119
On the Cover
What could be more lovely than Mudjin Harbour
in Middle Caicos at twilight? Master/Craftsman
Photographer James Roy of Paradise Photography captured
this beautiful image. For more of his work, visit
www.MyParadisePhoto.com.
66
DOMINIQUE ROLLE—CAYA HICO MEIDA

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from the editor
STEVE PASSMORE–PROVO PICTURES WWW.PROVOPICTURES.COM
This is lovely Taylor Bay Beach, once readily accessible to all. The late Dick Clark’s (of American Bandstand fame) former residence at the far
corner of the beach has since been torn down.
“Tailor-made” for All?
Anyone who has read my comments over the years knows that change comes hard to me. In a world where life
seems to be moving ever-faster, every year, I’ve found great solace in the Islands’ slower pace. I try to tell myself that
steadfastness and perseverance are a positive way to spin my stick-in-the-mud personality. But that doesn’t change
the environment around me, as the tide flows right past this tottering stick.
These days, I’m mourning a habit that has brought me joy for over two decades: a weekly swim at Taylor Bay
Beach. My ritual included walking to the beach, donning mask, fins and snorkel, swimming along the small channel
to the swim float and stroking across to the rocks below Dick Clark’s former beachhouse (before it was torn down).
From season to season I swam; fighting rough waves during winter storms, savoring those rare mirror-flat days when
it was like moving through liquid mercury. Most-always the sky, clouds and beach shimmered in the distance, often
with a violet or pink aura.
First came the green fence that ran from one end of the beach to the next, standing out like an ugly scar. It was
followed by bulldozers chewing away the verdant bush that used to welcome visitors who picked their way down the
rocky beach access path. Three white monoliths grew in its place, each complete with private pool, more fences, private
gates. The final blow came the day I discovered the public beach access path fenced, gated and locked. Rumor
has it that a key is very costly.
As I write this, the local newspapers have printed similar letters of outrage and confusion, yet no answers have
emerged. I’m using my small forum here to ask: Aren’t the beaches in Turks & Caicos open to all? Hasn’t this beach
been lauded as one of TCI’s best places to visit? Is anyone paying attention to development?
Do the best things in life always have to change?
Kathy Borsuk, Editor
timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788
6 www.timespub.tc

Turks And Caicos
TurksAndCaicosProperty.com
Real Estate
Breezy Villa
Breezy Villa is a luxurious 2650 sq. ft. ocean front
villa located on the south shore of Providenciales
in the Leeside area of Long Bay Hills. The 4 Bed/ 4
full Bath property is situated on .54 of an acre and
is comprised of a 3 Bed/3 Bath (all en suite) main
house, plus a separate 1 Bed/ 1 Bath guest house.
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This is a rare opportunity to own over 2 Acres of
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Bernadette Hunt
cell ~ 649 231 4029 | tel ~ 649 941 3361
Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com
Bernadette relocated from Ireland to the
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as anAttorney for more than 10 years. After
retiringfrom the practice she focused exclusively
onwhat was already a successful real estate
business that she co-founded in 2000.
Long Bay House
Long Bay House is a unique 8,500 sq. ft. 6 bed/ 6
and a half bath beachfront estate, situated on over 2
Acres and set amidst Providenciales’ most luxurious
beachfront properties in Long Bay. The villa has
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Mandalay Villa
Mandalay is a 11,073 sq. ft. estate on sought after
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Based on independent MLS figures she has
active sales exceeding US$200M and her
gross transaction numbers are unrivaled. This
proven level of efficiency, experience and up
to the minute information provides a platform
for quality service that you can count on.
Turks and Caicos Property is now the leading
independent real estate brokerage in the Turks
and Caicos Islands with offices located at 103
Ocean Club West Plaza and Ocean Club West
Resort. Bernadette’s reputation and success has
been earned over time through the dedication,
enthusiasm and consistent performance of her
and her team.
Her personal experience with owning a number
of properties on island and having renovated
some of them, means she is wellplaced to
advise her customers and developers on what
to anticipate in the construction process.
Bernadette delights in working in the real estate
industry and her humor and energy make her a
pleasure to work with.
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The Pinnacle - Provo’s ultimate residential
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PG advert_Layout 1 5/10/17 9:10 AM Page 1
TIMES
MANAGING EDITOR
Kathy Borsuk
OF THE
ISLANDS
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Claire Parrish
“Escape to the extraordinary.”
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Kathy Borsuk, Kathryn Brown, John Claydon, Tim Cotroneo,
Séamus Day, Dr. Aaron C. Henderson, Dr. Donald H. Keith,
B Naqqi Manco, Oliver Mills, Claire Parrish,
Jody Rathgeb, Dominique Rolle–Caya Hico Media,
Eric F. Salamanca, Camilla Smith, Ben Stubenberg,
Candianne Williams, Kathleen Wood.
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Nimrol Beckles, Tim Cotroneo, Séamus Day,
Dr. Donald H. Keith, Agile LeVin, Hope LeVin,
B Naqqi Manco, James Roy & Frank Withers–
Paradise Photography, Claire Parrish,
Steve Passmore–Provo Pictures,
Martin Pepper, Tom Rathgeb, Mario Rigby,
Dominique Rolle–Caya Hico Media, Eric F. Salamanca,
Pat Saxton, Ramona Settle, Talisha Simons, Camilla Smith,
Bengt Soderqvist, Ben Stubenberg, Candianne Williams.
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Stella Borsuk, Wavey Line Publishing
PRINTING
Franklin-Dodd Communications, Hialeah, FL
Times of the Islands ISSN 1017-6853 is
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12 www.timespub.tc

getting to know
Besides being among the best-known of TCI musicians, Lovey Forbes has influenced and
supported many following in his footsteps.
A Model for Music and More
Lovey Forbes
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos By Tom Rathgeb
Music has been a journey for Lovey Forbes. Songs and sounds have carried him from his North Caicos
beginnings, where he grew up hearing local gospel and country music on the radio, to other countries
and cultures, to meeting new people, to exploring his own feelings and faith, to seeing beauty in all of
creation. Ultimately, though, the music has carried him back to his home and himself.
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 13

When I first interviewed Lovey for this magazine in
the early 1990s, we called him the Islands’ “troubadour,”
promoting the Turks & Caicos in song. More than 20
years later, he is all that and more. He not only has found
a way to make a living in music, but also has become a
model for other TCI musicians and for volunteer community
service.
Lovey’s story is that of a natural musician. Born
on North Caicos in 1950, he was early-on surrounded
by music; his mother taught the subject and played
the organ, and gospel sounds are as indigenous to the
Islands as flamingos and pine. When he was about eight
years old, radio came to North Caicos and he heard country
music from the United States. The early influence
has stayed with him: He says he has written a yet-tobe-released
song titled, “I Am a Turks & Caicos Country
Singer.”
When his family moved to Freeport, Bahamas in the
1960s, he followed Bahamian musicians and broke into
that scene, influenced by calypso, reggae and American
rock-and-roll. At the time a keyboardist, he was invited
to join Smokey 007 and the Exciters, one of the most
popular bands. The association was mutually beneficial.
The band improved Lovey’s musicianship, and he added
showmanship to their performances.
He recalls the night he broke through and found his
own style. “Freeport was our base, but one night we made
a trip to Bimini” for a gig. As they performed, he got so
caught up with the music that he wasn’t satisfied with
just his hands on the keyboard. “I lifted up my foot and
was playing with my feet. Then I was playing the organ
with my whole body.” The crowd-pleaser helped the band
loosen up and “set me off as a musician.” Even today, he
will sometimes break into dance during a performance.
A paradise in Whitby
The Bahamas may have formed Lovey’s stage style, but
his music and writing is all TCI. When he moved back to
North Caicos in 1976, he switched to guitar and began
composing songs about his homeland and performing
locally. This is the period in which he developed what he
calls combina music, a blend of country, reggae, calypso,
rock-and-roll and gospel . . . “and a little soca, with a
disco beat and merengue,” he wrote in one song.
Many of his lyrics at this time celebrated the beauty,
history and culture of the Turks & Caicos, and he became
The natural beauty and lively culture of Lovey Forbes’s birthplace in North Caicos inspires many of his songs.
14 www.timespub.tc

known for such songs as “Old Conch” (his signature
piece), “Bloody Mosquitos” and “Whitby Paradise.” When
he met and married Heather Simpson-Forbes, love songs
became a larger part of his repertoire, along with the popular
“Mash Potatoes Peas and Cheese.”
Lovey has recorded his music a number of times, and
he continues to do so. Performance, however, is where
he really shines, and TCI has been good to him in that
regard. He has done regular gigs on Parrot Cay and Provo,
and during the tourist season he has a weekly show at
Miss B’s Fish Fry (often with his nephew, Ricky “Ricardo”
Forbes) and occasional performances at My-Dee’s
Restaurant, Bar and Grill and the Barracuda Beach Bar, all
on North Caicos.
Model and mentor
Even when he is not present, there is a touch of Lovey in
the music of the Turks & Caicos, for he has influenced
and supported so many other musicians as a model and
mentor. One obvious example is Correy Forbes, Lovey’s
son.
Correy’s musical background is somewhat similar to
his father’s: memories of singing in church with the aunt
and uncle who raised him, Janderlyn and Victor Forbes;
learning guitar and taking piano lessons before he was
a teenager; solo work and composition. “I got the rudiments
from Manless Taylor, my first music teacher, and I
started to play keyboard with Dad in 1977. He taught me
to play by ear,” he says.
From 1993 to 1996 on North Caicos, where Correy
was working as a manager of Club Vacanze at the
Prospect of Whitby, he and Tell Missick formed Tell
and the Rakooneers, a rake-and-scrape band that both
performed and recorded. The band was full of Lovey’s
combina sound, and performances usually included some
of the elder Forbes’ songs. Correy’s own songs also followed
in his father’s footsteps, extolling island culture in
“Green Corn Time,” “Turks & Caicos Iguana” and “Combina
Lover.”
When Correy moved to Provo in 1996, his music took
a different direction. He works primarily as a solo act,
doing private engagements and only two public shows
a week (in season) at Grace’s Cottage (the restaurant at
Point Grace) and the Alexandra Resort. And while he still
promotes island culture, he now leans more toward dining
music, American folk and some political lyrics (“Back
to Lemonade”). Like Lovey, he is making a living from
music in a place where doing so is difficult.
Lovey’s influence also extends to other young musi-
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 15

Correy Forbes follows in his father’s musical footsteps, primarily performing
as a solo act at local venues.
cians, most notably the Grand Land Band of Middle
Caicos. Lovey “discovered” the band one night at Brody’s
on Middle. “I enjoyed their sound and asked them onto
my show coming up on Horsestable Beach,” he relates.
The fledgling group still had no name, so Lovey and the
father of one band member brainstormed and came up
with a name to echo an old moniker for Middle Caicos. He
acts as an adviser to the group and occasionally performs
with them.
While recording is increasingly a difficult prospect
for local musicians—Correy comments that YouTube and
the Internet have essentially killed recording, especially
for the emerging independent artist—Lovey continues to
record occasionally, and generally includes other musicians
when he does so. He plans to do his next recording
at the studio of William “Bullfrog” Delancey in Bottle
Creek, and he is among the TCI Entertainers on “A Taste
of the Turks & Caicos,” a compilation CD for tourists.
Others on the CD are Correy, Quinton Dean, Noel and
Tiffany Browne, Keno & Kaz, Arnold Simmons, Brentford
Handfield, Max Clare and Julian Garland.
Even island dogs benefit from Lovey’s music! One of
his “in the works” projects is a CD of potcake songs that
will benefit The Potcake Foundation, a nonprofit charity
founded by Heather Simpson-Forbes.
FRANK WITHERS–PARADISE PHOTOGRAPHY
Schedule/price subject to change without prior notice.
16 www.timespub.tc
Community service
Service to his community doesn’t end with music and
musicians. Through the years, Lovey has quietly taken on
projects to improve and beautify North Caicos, spending
his own money when necessary. A park at the corner of
Kew and Whitby roads was his idea, and he rallied others
to help in both its creation and upkeep. A more recent
project is Casuarina Garden Trails, a pleasant strolling
spot next to the government’s Horsestable Beach facilities,
which he rakes regularly. He plans to add benches
and gardens to the site.
When Lovey sees a need, he simply goes ahead and
tackles it. “I realize it’s difficult to get government to do
things, so if I have the money to do it, I go ahead,” he
says. “Then send them the bill.” Sometimes he gets reimbursement,
and sometimes he doesn’t, he shrugs.
Lovey has also cut a path over Hollywood Hill so that
people walking the beach during a very high tide can
avoid getting wet, and he tries to keep the roads close
to his property free of trash. His Whitby home is fronted
by a parklike area that he created, maintains and shares
freely with locals and tourists alike. It has picnic tables,
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pact mini-golf courses for playing a game he
invented called Circle Putt Golf.
Lovey says that everything he does, from
writing music to raking casuarina needles,
is guided by his belief in God. He writes
“when the Spirit moves me,” plans projects
“according to what the Lord shows me,” and
volunteers his work “to follow my spirit.”
No matter what one’s beliefs are, the
good that comes from Lovey’s spirit is undeniable.
It is the spirit of the Turks & Caicos
Islands. a
At right: Lovey Forbes performs with Ricky “Ricardo”
Forbes at My-Dee’s Restaurant, Bar and Grill in North
Caicos.
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 17

MARTIN PEPPER

feature
Opposite page: South Caicos is the “Fishing Capital” of the Turks & Caicos, with a rich history of songs and stories, likely often told over the
years to pass the time on a fishing boat.
Above: “I Call the River” is a song representing justice and telling the truth.
STELLA BORSUK
Tales from South Caicos
The “Big South” has a strong tradition of songs and stories.
By Oliver Mills
South Caicos is an admired and cherished island. It is often referred to as the “Fishing Capital” of the
Turks & Caicos. It is now growing into a formidable competitor in the hospitality industry. The island
has produced many prominent politicians including the current (first female) Premier Hon. Sharlene
Cartwright-Robinson, a former speaker of the House of Representatives, and ministers of government.
South Caicos has a quiet, peaceful environment that produces calm and friendly people. Because of its
rich history, particularly with its connection to Bermuda and the Bahamas, many tales have emerged which
portray life in the form of songs and stories.
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 19

One popular song includes the lines, “Bonefish bite
me, nobody knows, every married man has his own
bonefish. Throw out your line and catch your bonefish.”
This song deals with the sacredness of having a wife,
and when you do see a female, likened to a bonefish,
that attracts your attention deeply, you should approach
her and express your interest in her. The bonefish is a
delicacy, and a beautiful female is described in delicate
terms, and is treated kindly and respectfully. So the wife
becomes a bonefish, with all the niceties. The song is
played with musical instruments such as the drum, guitar
and accordion, the latter locally referred to as “music
box.” It is a song of joy.
And there are songs of justice. One named, “I Call the
River,” is about a family where a sibling took food from
the cooking pot and won’t admit it. The nearby river was
seen as nature’s way of dispensing justice, or setting a
person free. The mother took her three sons down to the
river, where each had to wade in, stop when the water
reached his waistline, and sing, ‘‘I call the river, I call the
river, I call the river no more, and if I eat my mother’s
rice, I call the river to swallow me.’’ The first two boys
went in and sang, but the river did not rise. The last boy
approached the river crying while he sang the song, his
voice trembling as he did so. And as he sang, the river
kept rising until it covered his neck, which brought a
quick admission and an apology. Justice was about to be
served, but was kind. The lesson is not to steal and if you
do, admit it and apologize, or the river will decide your
fate.
The sea plays an important role in the lives of residents
of South Caicos. There is a traditional fishing
sector, and “jumping turtles” was a strategy to capture
this food source. The fishermen would go out in their
fishing vessels with eyes trained on the sea for turtles
that might come to the surface. When one did, a fisherman
would quickly jump from the boat on the back of the
turtle and turn it over, so that its underside was on top.
In this state, the turtle is helpless. It was then carried to
the boat and lifted in with the aid of the other fishermen.
This was not as easy as it appeared, since a large turtle
could put up a fight, and escape.
A South Caicos song called “The Kaiser” came from
these experiences, which described really huge tur-
RAMONA SETTLE
Religion is an important element of life on South Caicos and the Anglican church here is the country’s third oldest building.
20 www.timespub.tc

The story of the fish vendor demonstrates the values of remaining calm and perservering in challenging circumstances.
STELLA BORSUK
tles, likened to the power of the Kaiser in Germany.
Loggerhead was another name given to huge turtles. Part
of the song says, “Go ahead and hit pa, we going jump
the loggerhead. Give me my dagger, we going kill the
Kaiser.” Pa is a cultural term for dad. This was a highly
popular song, with a great melody enjoyed by the young
and others alike. This song represents power, how to confront
and defeat it, and prevail.
Religion is an important element in South Caicos life,
with confession before a priest required for forgiveness.
There is the story of a believer who remained behind at
the altar in church after everyone else had left. He was
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 21

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approached by the priest and gently told confession was
over and he could now leave. But the man looked inquisitively
at the priest and said, “But Father did you not say
that when we pray we heap coals of fire on our enemies’
heads?” “Yes,” replied the priest. “Well,” answered the
parishioner, “I have an enemy down the road and I want
to burn him down to a stump!” The reaction of the priest
is not given.
And there was the tailor who once a year, at the middle
period, always took to drinking heavily. He worked
for six months and consumed alcohol every day for the
remaining six. It was a personal tradition, and South
Caicos looked forward to it. But there was an issue. The
tailor suffered from hypertension and his doctor warned
him about his drinking. In no uncertain terms, he told the
doctor, “You don’t want me to drink, because you want
all the booze for yourself. Furthermore I pay your salary,
so I’ll drink whenever I want to, send up my blood pressure,
and come to you to bring it back down, because I
pay you to do it!” He was totally unrepentant and lacking
self-forgiveness.
There is the episode of the fish vendor. She walked
around different areas of the island with a square pan
on her head, filled with bonefish which she sold to fish
lovers, and was called Aunty Martha. She never walked in
a straight path, but used her tall lanky frame to almost
skip from side to side, a little to the left, then to the right,
with eyes gazing downward as she hopped along. Along
came a schoolboy, playing in the street as they do while
going home from school. Aunty Martha did not see him,
and neither did he see her. “Boom!” They collided. The
schoolboy fell sideways on his elbows. The fish in Aunty
Martha’s pan flew separately through the air and landed
at different spots along the road. Aunty Martha stood
firm, wide-eyed and shocked, not seeming to realize
immediately what had happened. She quickly collected
herself, picked up each fish carefully, brushed the sand
off and walked away unperturbed.
These tales from South Caicos portray the soul of
the island. The song “Bonefish Bite Me” teaches a moral
lesson about the dignity of marriage, and the cultural
expectation to act with respect. “I Call the River” shows
how karma steps in to level things off and right wrongs.
The song “The Kaiser” depicts power and strength, and
the spirit of overcoming challenges.
The tale of religious confession presents two conflicting
positions. Confession is supposed to free the
individual of blame and wipe the slate clean. But here,
the objective is to bring greater harm to the individual
22 www.timespub.tc

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who committed a wrong against another! Finally, the
tale of the alcoholic tailor represents determination even
when danger lurks, and a resentment to feeling deprived
of something even though it will cause harm. Stubborn
resistance is the feature here. The fish vendor story tops
it all with a display of calmness, being unruffled and moving
on despite personal challenges.
Each of these songs and stories is wrapped in the
spirit of South Caicos, indeed the entire Turks & Caicos
Islands. As you pay careful attention to the folks around
you, see if you can see this truth. a
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Oliver Mills is from the island of South Caicos, and is a
former lecturer in education at the University of the West
Indies (Jamaica). He holds a BA (Hons.) UWI, an M.Ed.
Dalhousie University, an MA University of London, and
a Post-graduate Diploma in HRM and Training, Leicester
University.
He is a former PS Education with the Turks &
Caicos Government, and has published chapters in four
books, and two book reviews in the Caribbean Journal of
Education. He currently contributes a weekly column to
“Caribbean News Now.”
Blue Loos_Layout 1 5/28/17 4:13 PM Page 1
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If you would like to donate or learn more please
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24 www.timespub.tc

green pages
newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
head office: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895
• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710
• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales
parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793
fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web www.environment.tc
The shiny leaves, branches and apple-like fruit of this manchineel tree on Bristol Hill, Providenciales, camouflage its many toxic qualities.
Tree of Death
The dangerous machineel tree is thriving in Turks & Caicos.
By Eric F. Salamanca, Bryan Manco and John Claydon,
Department of Environment & Coastal Resources, and Kathleen Wood, SWA Environment
Photos By Eric F. Salamanca
The manchineel tree, scientifically known as Hippomane mancinella of the family Euphorbiaceae, is considered
by the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s most dangerous tree. This species is native
to the Western Hemisphere, and it is known to grow in Florida, the Caribbean and the Bahamas. This tree
species is naturally thriving in the Turks & Caicos Islands and is found on the premises of hotels and
resorts, villas, residential houses and in the forests/bushes. Typically it grows in coastal and low-lying
areas. When the Spanish first found the tree during their conquest of the Americas, they named it arbol
de la muerte, which means “tree of death.”
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 25

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
Description
A full-grown manchineel tree, in a favorable environment,
may reach at maturity about 65 feet (20 meters) in height
and with a 3-foot diameter at the base, although it rarely
reaches these dimensions in TCI. The tree has shiny
green, oval leaves, with glands on the petioles. It has
smooth, greyish bark and small, greenish-yellow flowers.
The leaves are simple, alternate, very finely serrated or
toothed, and 5–10 centimeters (2–4 inches) long. Spikes
of small greenish flowers are followed by fruit, which are
similar in appearance to a crabapple and are greenish-yellow
when ripe. The small fruit measures about 1 to 2
inches in diameter and is deceptively sweet in flavor, but
do not eat it!
The name “manchineel,” as well as the specific epithet
“mancinella,” is derived from Spanish manzanilla
(“little apple”), because of the superficial resemblance of
its fruit and leaves to those of an apple tree. The present-day
Spanish name of this tree is manzanilla de la
muerte, meaning “little apple of death.”
Toxicity
All parts of the tree contain strong toxins, some of
which remain unidentified. The leaves of the tree
contain 12-deoxy-5-hydroxyphorbol-6-gamma-7-alpha-oxide,
hippomanins, mancinellin, and sapogenin,
phloracetophenone-2,4-dimethylether, while the fruits
possess physostigmine.
The milky white sap of this tree is incredibly caustic
and poisonous. It contains phorbol and other skin irritants,
producing strong allergic dermatitis and caustic
burning. A single drop of sap can cause skin blisters,
dermatitis, swelling and/or burns. It is so caustic it has
been reported to cause damage to the paint on cars.
Using the tree as shelter when it rains can be particularly
detrimental. A person who does this can experience
burns and blistering on every portion of skin exposed
to dripped rainwater. The sap is so caustic that the raindrops,
passing through the branches of the manchineel
tree, pick up enough toxins to cause burns.
Don’t be tempted to take shelter under this full-grown manchineel
tree when it rains, as you may experience burns and blisters from
the diluted sap.
The bark is poisonous too—burning it releases a
smoke that can cause temporary (and in some cases, permanent)
blindness if smoke reaches the eyes. Eye contact
with the milky sap (latex) produces bullous dermatitis,
acute keratoconjunctivitis and possibly large corneal epithelial
defects.
The fruit is fatal if ingested, as it causes severe
gastroenteritis with bleeding, shock, bacterial superinfection,
and the potential for airway compromise due
to edema. When ingested, the fruit is reportedly “pleasantly
sweet” at first, with a subsequent “strange peppery
feeling . . . gradually progressing to a burning, tearing
26 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
These lovely spikes of small greenish flowers of the Manchineel tree develop into the crabapple-like fruit, which can be fatal if ingested.
sensation and tightness of the throat.” Symptoms continue
to worsen until the patient can “barely swallow solid
food” because of the excruciating pain and the feeling of
a huge obstructing pharyngeal lump. Persons who may
have ingested a machineel fruit, who may have either oropharyngeal
burns or gastrointestinal symptoms, should
be evaluated by medical professionals or admitted to a
hospital for appropriate treatment.
It is also reported that machineel is toxic for
many birds and animals, but the black-spined iguana
(Ctenosaura similis) is known to eat the fruit and even
live among the limbs of the tree. Land crabs and some
species of birds love this tree and can even eat the fruit
with gusto.
Considering all the ways it can hurt you, it’s no wonder
the manchineel currently holds the Guinness record
for “World’s Most Dangerous Tree.” With the poisonous
nature of this tree, it is best to stay at least a few yards
Burning manchineel bark releases a smoke that can cause blindness,
while eye contact with the milky sap is very harmful as well.
away from the canopy.
In some parts of its range, many trees carry a warning
sign, while others are marked with a red “X” on the trunk
to indicate danger. In other countries and territories, the
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 27

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
treats edema, while the
dried fruit has been used
as a diuretic. Extracts of the
seeds and bark have been
used as a vermifuge, as a
cathartic, and to treat venereal
diseases and tetanus,
although in these cases, the
cure may be worse than the
disease.
Despite the attractive
and salt-tolerant nature
of this tree, it is not recommended
for use in
landscaping or for ornamental
purposes, due to its
poisonous nature.
These are the seedlings, fruits and leaf-litter of the deadly manchineel tree—beware!
trees are identified with a painted red band a few feet
above the ground. In the Turks & Caicos Islands, however,
trees are usually unmarked.
Famous victim
Conquistador Juan Ponce de Leon is probably the most
famous victim of manchineel. In 1513, Ponce de Leon
led the first European expedition into Florida, and he
returned to colonize the peninsula eight years later. De
Leon’s invasion met resistance from Calusa fighters.
These native Caribbean people used manchineel sap to
make poison arrows, and one of these sap-tipped arrows
reportedly struck Ponce de Leon’s thigh during the 1521
battle. He fled with his troops to Cuba, where he died of
his wounds.
Usage
While the tree is considered to be the most dangerous
tree in the world, Caribbean carpenters have used it
for centuries as a source of timber for furniture. They
carefully cut the trees and dry the logs under the sun to
neutralize its poisonous sap before working on them.
A gum produced from the bark reportedly
Value
In spite of its toxicity, manchineel
provides ecological
value, just like other trees.
Aside from its aesthetic
qualities, derived from
green lush leaves, it serves as a natural windbreak. Its
root system prevents soil/beach erosion, an important
ecosystem service in light of the growing threat of sea
level rise from climate change. The high toxicity or biotoxins
which can be derived from the tree may inspire
scientists and researchers for bioprospecting (the process
of discovery and commercialization of new products
based on biological resources).
Conclusion
The danger attributed to the toxicity of the manchineel
tree potentially outweighs its ecological values, especially
in areas frequently used by humans. The seeds germinate
easily, and it may be prudent to destroy seedlings in
human-frequented areas in order to avoid the spread of
this poisonous plant.
In natural areas, removed from human activity, total
eradication of this species is not recommended. In spite
of its toxicity, manchineel, like all organisms, serves a
function in the conservation of biological diversity. In the
future, it may be found to provide valuable raw materials
for scientific advancement, yet to be discovered. a
28 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
These are the leaves and cones of the beautiful and endangered endemic Caicos pine, of which the pine tortoise scale insect has killed about
95% of wild trees in the last decade.
A Botanical Collaboration
Bahamas Forestry Unit trained in native plant identification.
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco, DECR Terrestrial Ecologist/Environmental Officer
The Turks & Caicos Islands are geographically part of the Lucayan Archipelago, which is more generously
occupied by the Bahamas. Whilst politically divided, the island chain that stretches between Florida and
Hispaniola is a continuous biogeographical unit. We share most of our plant species with the Bahamas,
including about 30 species that are found nowhere outside of the archipelago.
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 29

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
For reasons not yet fully understood, our two largest
islands, Middle and North Caicos, were covered by
large areas (locally called “yards”) of Caribbean pine similar
to the northernmost Bahamas. (Interestingly, the pine
doesn’t exist in the central and southern Bahamas, creating
an inexplicable 500-mile disjunction between the
populations).
Because of the common theme of pine, TCI’s
Department of Environment & Coastal Resources (DECR)
partners with institutions working with pine yards in
the Bahamas, including the Bahamas National Trust and
Bahamas Forestry Unit. Over the past decade, pine specialists
from these two groups have visited the Turks &
Caicos to assist with the management of our pine yards
in the wake of the pine tortoise scale insect infestation,
which has killed about 95% of wild trees. They have been
invaluable partners, particularly in preparation for the
introduction of a controlled burn programme for Middle
Caicos pine yards.
In April 2017, this partnership led to a collaboration
between the DECR and Bahamas Forestry Unit in the
form of a native plant identification training programme.
Bahamas Forestry received a grant from the Global
Environment Facility for the project, “Pine Islands—
Forest/Mangrove Innovation and Integration,” which will
focus on baseline data collection and land use planning
in these ecosystems.
Participants in the native plant identification training programme
learn field characteristics of plants in the New Providence pine yard.
To carry out this work, their team of forest officers
and forest rangers, working across four islands, needed to
know how to identify the native trees and shrubs found in
the pine ecosystem. Forest Officer Ingeria Miller, a member
of the Pine Rocklands Working Group, requested the
Two new female pine cones, still receptive to pollen, grow above a
cone that is several months from maturity. Caicos pine cones take two
years to mature from pollination to seed release.
assistance of DECR Terrestrial Ecologist/Environmental
Officer B Naqqi Manco in the creation and execution of a
native plant identification training. The programme ran
for a week and included 14 participants, who learned how
to use characteristics and tools to identify plants, rather
than learning species by rote memorization. Topics covered
included plant anatomy and related terminology,
plant taxonomy (classification and botanical names),
specimen collection and pressing, use of an herbarium
collection, use of field guides and botanical texts, and an
exercise in the use of dichotomous keys. Forest Officer
Miller raved about the programme saying, “This was one
of the singularly most enjoyable training sessions of my
career. (Officer Manco) was not only extremely knowledgeable
but quite entertaining and kept the audience
engaged from start to finish. Your quizzes and repetition
techniques also deepened the impression and facilitated
30 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
total recall. We look forward more training sessions in the
future.”
The course was conducted on New Providence,
Bahamas, but the Forestry Unit’s work extends to Abaco,
Andros and Grand Bahama—which all have species not
encountered on New Providence; therefore it was important
to teach characteristics and how to use the proper
tools to identify unknown plants.
From the course, a Facebook group was also started
so that practice can continue and participants can upload
photos of unknown species for help in identification. With
so many biogeographical similarities, it is natural that
collaboration continues and strengthens between Turks
& Caicos and the Bahamas. After all of the help TCI has
received from the Bahamas for the restoration of our pine
yards, it was the perfect chance to give back. a
This young Caicos pine (probably 20–30 years old) releases its seeds
from freshly-opened cones on Pine Cay.
Participants practice making herbarium specimens for future identification.
The course participants display their certificates of completion and
Correll & Correll’s Flora of the Bahama Archipelago. Standing (from
left): Danielle Hanek Culmer, Amano Williams, Andrew Curry, Delano
Richards, Arien Sikken, B Naqqi Manco, Latonya Williams, Wavell
Hanna, Terrance Rodgers. Sitting (from left): Amanda Newbold, Cliff
Bethel, Kirk Cunningham, Ingeria Miller. Missing: Justin White.
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 31

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
This Caribbean reef shark is carefully examining a baited hook.
The Good Shark
Shark research in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
By Dr. Aaron C. Henderson and Camilla Smith,
School for Field Studies, Center for Marine Resource Studies, South Caicos
Photos By Camilla Smith
The public perception of sharks has shifted dramatically over the last couple of decades. Whereas they
were once portrayed as bloodthirsty monsters, spawning the adage, “The only good shark is a dead
shark,” most people now realise that sharks are an extremely important component of the ecosystems
in which we find them.
As apex predators, sharks have a strong controlling influence on the organisms that they feed upon,
and any reduction in shark numbers is counterbalanced by an increase in their prey populations. While
this might sound like a good thing, particularly to seafood lovers, the problem is that these increased
populations deplete their own food sources much faster than under normal conditions, and so the
knock-on effect ripples down through the food chain.
32 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
Juvenile lemon sharks are reliant on shallow inshore waters during
the early stages of life.
The end result of this “trophic cascade” might be a
radically altered ecosystem—dead coral skeletons overgrown
by algae where once there were healthy coral reefs,
for example. Shark populations have already experienced
massive declines on a global scale, due mainly to a combination
of commercial fishing pressure and habitat loss.
So it is extremely important that further serious declines
are prevented, not just for the sake of the sharks, but
also for the populations of other species that they are
connected to, both directly and indirectly.
The School for Field Studies Center for Marine
Resource Studies on South Caicos has been studying the
ecology of local shark populations since 2005, with a view
to determining their status and conservation needs. The
longest running of these studies has been an investigation
into habitat use by juvenile lemon sharks, a species
that is classified as “Near Threatened” by the International
Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN). Its distribution
ranges from New Jersey to Brazil, and throughout this
range it has experienced heavy fishing pressure, causing
a considerable reduction in population size. However, the
biggest threat that this species currently faces is habitat
loss, as lemon sharks are reliant on shallow inshore
waters during the early stages of life.
In late spring and early summer, pregnant females
move into extremely shallow waters close to mangroves,
where they give birth to between 4 and 17 pups, each
measuring around 60 cm in length. Having given birth,
the females then move straight back out into deeper
waters, but the newborn shark pups remain in these shallow
areas for the first few years of life. As mangroves
support large populations of fish and invertebrates, the
shark pups have access to plenty of food as well as being
protected from larger predators.
Our research on this species has been mainly concerned
with identifying areas of particular importance for
the shark pups. What we have found is that almost everywhere
that you find mangroves, you will find lemon shark
pups. But, some areas do seem to be more important
than others. As we have recently reported in an article
for the scientific journal Aquatic Conservation, the most
important area for these pups around South Caicos is the
Bell Sound Nature Reserve.
Not only is there a greater concentration of the
sharks within Bell Sound, relative to other areas around
South Caicos, but Bell Sound is also home to the smallest
pups. In other words, Bell Sound appears to be an
important birthing ground for the pregnant sharks, and
the young sharks prefer the sheltered, shallow waters
that Bell Sound provides. While our research is ongoing,
it seems highly likely that the shark’s main food source is
the fish that live around the mangroves in the northeastern
corner of the reserve around Iguana Cay, as well as in
the western part of the reserve around Man-O-War Bush.
Unfortunately, Bell Sound faces an uncertain future,
as there have been calls to redraw the boundary of the
Nature Reserve and to downgrade it to a National Park.
While these proposals would facilitate greater waterbased
recreational use of Bell Sound for South Caicos’
growing tourism industry, there can be no denying that
any such change will negatively impact the resident
lemon shark pups—particularly as there are also plans to
remove some of the mangroves from around Iguana Cay.
And it’s not just the lemon sharks that rely on these
mangroves; most of the fish that live among the mangrove
roots are juveniles of species that live out on the
reef as adults. The mangroves are an essential nursery
habitat for these species, without which populations of
reef fish are also likely to decline.
More recently, we have started to investigate the ecology
of other shark species that live out on the reef and
in the deeper sand flats of the Caicos Bank. Our first goal
was to determine which species occur locally, in addition
to the lemon sharks, and then to assess their movement
patterns and habitat preferences. The main techniques
that we use for this research are tag and release, and
baited remote underwater video stations (BRUVS).
Tag and release, as the name suggests, involves
capturing, tagging, and releasing the sharks. Captured
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 33

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
Clockwise from top left: Dr. Aaron Henderson and an SFS student
insert a PIT tag at the base of the dorsal fin of a juvenile lemon shark.
A tiger shark investigates a baited remote underwater video station
(BRUVS). Intern Sarah Fleming listens for an acoustic tag.
sharks are identified to species, measured, and tagged
with two types of tag. The first is an external tag called a
rototag, which is placed on the first dorsal fin, and which
bears a unique number. These tags are large enough
to be seen by divers—if you happen to spot one of our
tagged sharks, regardless of whether the number on the
tag is visible, please let us know! The second tag is a
small microchip that is placed under the skin, just below
the dorsal fin—the exact same type of tag that veterinarians
use to “chip” cats and dogs. Every time we recapture
one of our tagged sharks, it provides us with information
on its movement patterns and growth rate.
The BRUVS are metal frames on which a camera is
mounted, facing an attached bait box. We deploy these
throughout the study area and then review the camera
footage afterwards. This approach also allows us
to determine which shark species are inhabiting different
areas, and it provides information on their relative
abundance. Our work in this regard is part of a larger
international collaborative study known as Global FinPrint
34 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & coastal resources
(www.globalfinprint.org), which is using footage from
BRUVS deployed all over the world to assess shark populations
on a global scale.
So far, the species that we have most commonly
encountered are Caribbean reef sharks and nurse sharks,
but we also regularly encounter blacknose sharks, tiger
sharks, and less commonly, great hammerhead and
bonnethead sharks. We have heard reports of mako
sharks and bull sharks from both fishermen and divers,
but unfortunately, we have not found any evidence of
either species—at least on the eastern side of the Caicos
Bank. Should any of you have photographic evidence
of these species or, indeed, any other shark species
occurring in the Turks & Caicos, please let us know!
An exciting development in our activities recently
came courtesy of research funding donated by the Curtis
and Edith Munsen Foundation; namely the acquisition of
an acoustic receiver that allows us to actively track sharks
as they move about. While this aspect of our research
is still in its infancy, the results so far have been quite
interesting. Some sharks seem to confine their activities
to very small areas, while others like to undertake more
expansive movements. As this work continues, we hope
to determine if the sharks display any defined day/night
or seasonal migrations.
And so, our understanding of shark ecology in the
waters around the Turks & Caicos Islands continues to
develop, but as with most scientific research, as one
question gets answered, ten more questions present
themselves. It might be a never-ending quest, but studying
sharks and getting to see these magnificent animals
on a daily basis is a huge privilege, particularly in these
beautiful surroundings. The Turks & Caicos are home to
what appear to be healthy shark populations at present,
and play an extremely important role in the amazing
underwater ecosystems of these Islands. Let’s hope this
never changes! a
The School for Field Studies is a US-based academic
institution that provides multidisciplinary, field-based
environmental study abroad opportunities to undergraduate
university students. Each SFS program (9 in total)
highlights a different region of the world, with its own distinct
cultural and ecological characteristics and unique
environmental challenges. For more information on shark
research in the TCI, email ahenderson@fieldstudies.org.
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 35

AGILE LEVIN

feature
Opposite page: TCI watersports enthusiast and professional kiteboarder Hope LeVin sizes up the waves on a rare day in the TCI.
Above: A local athlete enjoys the swells that rise up on occasion.
Surfin’ TCI
It’s all about the “Stoke.”
By Ben Stubenberg
“For a surfer, it’s never ending. There’s always some wave you want to surf.”
Kelly Slater, Eleven-time World Champion Surfer
The Turks & Caicos Islands seem such an unlikely place for surfing. Grace Bay’s dazzling turquoise lagoon
more often than not sparkles in the sun like a flat, glassy tropical lake better suited for blissful swimming
and snorkeling. Indeed, the endless tranquil beaches from which to watch one gorgeous sunset after
another brings not a single surfboard or surfer into view.
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 37

But every so often a storm gathers strength far out
in the North Atlantic. The swirling winds, perhaps 600
miles away, push on the sea creating surface waves that
organize into ground swells of turbulent kinetic energy
heading in all directions.
Moving swiftly across the open ocean as fast as 40
MPH (64 km/h), these swells arrive in less than a day to
the shores of two carbonite sea mounts rising 7,000 feet
(2,100 meters) from the ocean floor. Created over eons
by layers of coral, sand and limestone, the Caicos Bank
and the Turks Bank protrude just above the water and
make up the islands and cays that we call home. The
mass of liquid energy from the distant storm slams hard
into the long protective barrier reef that meanders a mile
or so offshore from Providenciales northeast to North
Caicos before wrapping around Middle and East Caicos.
As the swell hits the coral, the lower section quickly
slows down from the friction of the shallow bottom and
pushes upward. Meanwhile, the top part of the swell continues
forward unimpeded, outrunning the lower part,
creating a breaking wave. The wave rises until the water
can no longer support it, and collapses in a roiling torrent
on the reef. Some of these swells, however, advance up
the reef gradually from an angle rather than head-on all at
once, forming what is called a “peel.” When this happens,
the waves break progressively to the right or left. And
that sets up the kind of waves surfers yearn for.
From the beach, the pounding surf in the distance
makes not a sound and only appears as a long white
fringe of silent foam—lovely to gaze at while relaxing on
the sandy shore or from an oceanview hotel room. But
to the small band of surfers who live here on the tail
On the rare occasions when the “surf’s up” in TCI, it’s time to grab a
board with no time to waste.
end of the Bahamas Archipelago, that same twitching,
ivory ribbon on the horizon quickens the pulse and puts
in motion a venerable ritual—cancel appointments, wax
boards, ready the boat. It’s time to surf!
These are grown men and women, most with serious
work responsibilities, not teens skipping school. Many
are approaching or well into middle age and simply can’t
help themselves. There is no time to waste. They have to
get it together at the first indication of favorable conditions
because they don’t know when surfable waves will
come again or how long they will be there.
Good swells are maybe not quite as rare as the
mythical Scottish village of Brigadoon that appears to
outsiders every 100 years for one enchanting day of joy
and celebration before suddenly disappearing for another
century. But “routine” is hardly the word for the waves
that suddenly erupt from the deep in breathtaking glory
to those lucky enough to be at the right place at the right
time—only to vanish back into a ripple as if they never
existed.
The surf stoke
Filled with anticipation, the surfers gently place their long
or short boards into a boat so as not to scratch them and
motor out to where the sets roll in. For a few moments
they just watch. The mind concentrates to study where
and how the waves are breaking. Then no one wants to
hang back any longer. They throw their surfboards in and
paddle off to the “sweet spot” where they wait for their
wave just beyond the break, as excited as if they were 15
years old all over again.
When the swell steepens rapidly to a sleek, shimmering
incline just before cresting, the surfer first in the
line-up paddles as fast as he can. The idea is to gather
enough speed so that the surfboard accelerates down
the wave under its own force using gravity, matching or
exceeding the speed of the wave. The surfer quickly leaps
to his feet in a crouch, and leans and twists his body to
angle the board across the increasingly precipitous liquid
slope to keep ahead of the breaking peel. Done right, he’ll
be in the zone and feel the mesmerizing exhilaration of
the “Surf Stoke.” Get it wrong, and the wave crashes over,
knocking him off the board into roiling white water—a
wipeout.
Is TCI surfing dangerous? In a word, “Yes.” The coral
barrier that creates the surfable waves barreling in from
the deep is just a few feet below the surface. Sometimes,
if the tide is low, the coral heads actually pop up above
the surface. So the surfer must kick out of the wave
38 www.timespub.tc

As anywhere else, surfing in the TCI is challenging and a bit dangerous, but the “surf stoke” makes it all worthwhile!
HOPE LEVIN
before it breaks to avoid getting pushed by the white
water against the coral.
Also, if the waves are big with maybe a 9-foot face and
a surfer wipes out, he may be held down while bouncing
on the bottom. Even after making it back to the surface,
he sometimes has to gasp for air through thick foam as
another wave cascades over. If that’s not enough, there’s
the prospect of flying boards kicked up by a crashing
wave banging down on his head.
But everyone knows the risk, and everyone has the
scars to prove it. But they take the chance anyhow. The
lure is that strong.
What is it exactly about surfing that generates this
kind of obsessive-compulsive behaviour that puts the rest
of the world on hold — jobs, relationships, safety — to
feel this elusive Surf Stoke? Certainly other sports produce
highs. But surfing appears to be different because
the compulsion creates an especially acute chemical
dependence in the brain—at once euphoric and seductive.
In other words—totally addictive. And it’s not new.
It is worth stepping back in time to see how this
rather unique activity, confined almost exclusively to
some small islands in the Pacific less than a century ago,
became a universal phenomena known to just about
every human on the planet.
How it all got started
The concept of standing on a board as a wave pushed
you forward likely originated in Tahiti some 2,000 years
ago, mostly as a recreational activity. Following the epic
Polynesian voyages 800 years ago north across 3,000
miles of empty Pacific ocean to the Hawaiian Islands
(which happens to be my birthplace), the art of “wave
sliding,” or he’e nalu, took on a very different character.
In its new home, surfing became far more integrated
into everyday life as a mass activity, even taking on religious
overtones. Kahunas (priests) were often called
upon to offer chants to the gods and slap the waters with
stands of seaweed to summon the waves. The Ali’i (royalty)
implemented strict laws designating favoured surf
spots off-limits to commoners (presumably to prevent too
many surfers competing for good waves—a serious point
of contention that exists to this day). Regardless, everyone
surfed, and almost always naked. Over the centuries,
the Hawaiians shaped boards with new designs using a
variety of quality woods and perfected riding techniques,
all of which properly mark Hawaii as the birthplace of
surfing and one its great gifts to the world.
In the 1770s, officers of Captain Cook’s first and
third voyage to the Pacific recorded the first European
sightings of what they called “wave sliding” in Tahiti and
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 39

a failure of it. I got the board placed right, and at the
right moment, too; but missed the connection myself.
The board struck the shore in three-quarters of a second,
without any cargo, and I struck the bottom about
the same time, with a couple of barrels of water in me.
None but natives ever master the art of surf-bathing
thoroughly.”
Soon enough, the newcomers brought surfing back
home with them and showed others. The celebrity fame
of Hawaiian surfer and multiple Olympic gold medal
swimmer Duke Kahanamoku raised the international profile
of surfing in the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s as an exotic
and demanding physical activity. But it remained almost
exclusively in the realm of a few adventure athletes.
BEN STUBENBERG
Born in Hawaii, the birthplace of “wave sliding,” the author of this
article experienced the addictive thrill of surfing from an early age.
Hawaii. The astonished observers noted in particular the
supreme pleasure the “Indians” took in being pushed by
the sea and the desire to do it over and over. Even after
Captain Cook was killed by Hawaiians in a violent confrontation,
his First Lieutenant James King took time to
write a lengthy description of Hawaiian surfing, including
the risks surfers took of being slammed on the rocks.
This all-consuming passion for surfing among
Hawaiians is brought out in The History of Surfing, by
Matt Warshaw. The author quotes the observations of an
unnamed 19th century Hawaiian scholar, “The wife may
go hungry . . . and the children . . . but the head of the
house does not care. All day there is nothing but surfing.”
This particular claim seems to me to be a bit over the top,
but it does reflect surfing’s priority in Hawaiian society
and pervasive cultural and psychological grip.
Sadly, surfing went into steep decline in the 19th century,
in large part because disease had killed off most of
the Hawaiian population as they had little defense against
viruses brought from the West. Meanwhile, dour, straightlaced
Calvinist missionaries from Boston who first arrived
in the 1830s made their own contribution to surfing’s
demise by frowning disapprovingly on the frivolousness
of it all, the time taken from work, and, above all, the
absence of clothes.
But some Hawaiians held on to the sacred and joyful
cultural achievement, and in the early 1900s taught a
few fascinated Americans and Australians how to do it.
Some caught on, but others like author Mark Twain did
not: “I tried surf-bathing once, subsequently, but made
Global lifestyle
Surfing really boomed after the 1959 hit movie “Gidget,”
a romantic comedy that introduces a 17 year-old girl
(played by Sandra Dee) to the California surf culture of
hunky guys, beach parties and, of course, surfing. Gidget
(the nickname surf dudes gave to her by combining “girl”
and “midget”) is determined to learn how to surf despite
exclusive dominance by men. Her endearing success in
standing up on a board opened the door to the prospect
that anyone could learn to surf and be a part of the culture.
The surf-themed music of the Beach Boys in the early
1960s further boosted the cool factor and mass popularity.
The 1966 cult classic movie “Endless Summer,”
created and filmed by Bruce Brown, about two surfers
traveling the world in search of perfect waves, sealed forever
the image of surfing as the ultimate outdoor exotic
adventure fantasy that was actually attainable.
This was also the time when big wave surfing off the
North Shore of the Hawaiian island of Oahu got started.
Back then, before celebrity status emerged, the joke
among big wave surfers was that if you took a date to
watch you surf, you almost never got a second date with
her. That changed with professional surf competitions in
the 1970s and top surfers became recognized and, more
importantly, paid stars.
From there an entirely new industry evolved celebrating
surfing and beach culture that spread around the
globe. Today 23 million people surf worldwide, and the
stoke generates some $13 billion in global commerce. Of
course, surfboards and surf lessons make up a fraction of
the commercial value; rather it’s all about lifestyle—looking
the part with cool board shorts, catchy tank tops and
hip sandals.
40 www.timespub.tc

Although the global fascination with surfing continues
unabated, the obsession by those who do it today
would be quite recognisable to ancient Hawaiians. They,
like their modern counterparts around the world, including
TCI, understood what happens when good waves are
breaking. It starts with excitement and trepidation as
you first feel the massive mountain of fast-moving water
beneath you. Suddenly, there is mental clarity and focus.
You lose yourself and enter a new state of consciousness.
Nothing matters. It’s just you, a finely honed plank, and
a curling wall of aqua-blue ocean.The glide keeps going.
Time disappears. Instinct takes over. And you know the
pure, primal thrill of being alive.
Surf addiction
That riveting sensation, the “Surf Stoke,” has been the
focus of studies that seek to determine what happens to
the brain when riding a wave. Essentially, neuroscience
research shows that the primitive pleasure experience
part of our brain, called the limbic emotional center, runs
on the neurotransmitter dopamine.
When we feel pleasure, dopamine is released as a
reward. Risk, novelty, desire and effortful creativity in
particular stimulate dopamine release, all of which also
happen to be prime factors at play in surfing.
The vivid excitement generated by surfing is further
enhanced by endorphin opioids released during aerobic
activity, similar to “runner’s high.” On top of that, the rush
of adrenaline stimulates the brain to mimic the primitive
“flight or fight” impulse early humans developed as a critical
element in survival when facing danger. All of these
combine into a serious dopamine/endorphin/adrenaline
cocktail that explodes over the brain, according to Wallace
J. Nichols, author of Blue Mind. That super-intense feeling
in the limbic pleasure section is remembered and, over
time, wires the brain in a manner that creates a craving
for more. Interestingly, recent research suggests that the
brains of the biggest risk takers may be more numb to
excitement, i.e. fewer dopamine receptors, and thus take
bigger chances to get the same rush.
The desire to do it over and over can become an addiction
that, unsurprisingly, has parallels with substance
abuse. Drugs produce that same dopamine-release kick
in the pleasure zone of the brain. Dr. David Zald, professor
of psychology at Vanderbilt University Brain Institute,
studies the neurochemical mechanisms of addiction and
substance abuse and applies them to surfing. Quoted in
Blue Mind, Dr. Zald states, “As surfers are first learning,
there’s an amazing burst of dopamine simply when they
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Times of the Islands Summer 2017 41

stand on the board—‘I didn’t think I could do that!’ And
then surfing is never going to be the same.” It’s all about
the next wave you are going to catch.
Surfers apparently benefit from yet another phenomena—this
one from the proximity to crashing waves that
break molecules and liberate “negative ions.” The negative
ions are made up of microns of sodium and chloride
(salt) along with magnesium. After inhalation, these negative
ions attach to the tissue inside the body and improve
oxygenation that in turn enhances mood, concentration,
blood flow and quality of sleep. Some researchers now
believe that it’s these negative ions that actually keep the
“Surf Stoke” going after the adrenaline rush has worn off.
If surfers aren’t surfing, they are thinking about surfing.
The health benefits of surfing extend to exposure
to the sun, which helps to create large quantities of vitamin
D and has been shown to regulate blood pressure
and ward off diabetes. According to Dr. Sam Slattery,
founder/CEO of the Grace Bay Medical Clinic, “We need
2,000–4,000 units of vitamin D every day, most of which
can best be absorbed through bare shoulders. Here in the
TCI tropical beach environment, we can easily get plenty
of vitamin D if we spend a half hour in the sun with no
sunblocks.”
Dark side
We’ve already seen how since ancient times right up to
today, surfers will stop whatever “productive” activities
they are engaged in to ride waves. While this compulsion
can lead a few hard-core surfers to seek to replicate the
same highs through destructive drug use, it is the exception,
as it is with other high intensity sports. The natural
dopamine release from catching a wave provides so many
benefits to overall mental and physical health.
Far more disturbing, in my opinion, is the sense of
territoriality by many surfers worldwide who jealously
protect their surf “turf” from outsiders. This so-called
A few local youngsters are getting into surfing.
“localism” can manifest itself in various forms of intimidation
and threats to, in some cases, violence. It got so
bad in Luanda Bay (near the upscale town of Palos Verdes
south of Los Angeles) that the sheriff planned a sting
operation with undercover surfer cops to arrest the surfer
gang members who had threatened and assaulted “outsider”
surfers who dared to catch “their” waves.
The irony is not lost—how happy, dopamine/endorphin/adrenaline
pumped-up surfers became bullies to
keep waves all to themselves. Is it possible that some
surfers deny wave access to others to maximize their
surf rides and the high derived from that? Or is it, as
Tetsuhiko Endo, surf editor for the on-line surf and mountaineering
journal The Inertia, put it, “[T]his culture of
fun has spawned an underclass of miscreants trapped in
a terminal adolescence—individuals with such a deluded
grasp on reality that they have fashioned themselves the
guardians and secret police of a tidal Neverland.” As surfers
proud of our sport, we cannot ignore this unfortunate
reality. Luckily, TCI surfers have seen little of this.
Surfing for therapy
While the cool factor is forever locked into surfing’s
DNA, the prospect is emerging that the very addictive
but positive effects of surfing—dopamine, endorphins,
adrenaline—can be applied to treat a variety of conditions
and illnesses. Wallace in Blue Mind points out how
some surfers like Van Curaza, founder of Operation
Surf in Santa Cruz, California, are introducing surfing to
so-called “at-risk” youth, people with terminal illnesses
and physical limitations, and veterans suffering from Post
Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD). The results are impressive,
as the new surfers get noticeably calmer, quieter
and happier.
Equally compelling is the emerging evidence that
suggests watersports such as swimming and surfing can
have a transformative effect on autistic children. Don
Ryan, a surfer in Deerfield Beach, Florida, started in 2007
“Surfers for Autism”, to bring together surfers and volunteers
to work with autistic kids and their families. The
kids typically exhibit classic autism traits like inability to
focus, limited communication and social skills, anxiety
around others, and extreme sensitivity to light, sound,
and repetitive movement. At first they approach the
water with apprehension. But once put on a surfboard
(or paddleboard) and allowed to ride a small wave to
shore, something amazing happens. They grin widely and
start to relate to people around them to the point where,
according to volunteer Dave Rossman, “You can’t tell a
42 www.timespub.tc

kid with autism from any other child.”
Similar reports of what happens when autistic kids
surf have come out of Hawaii and Australia. Neurobiologist
Peter Vanderklish explains in Blue Mind that the beauty of
surfing “turns the focus of these kids inside out. They’re
pulled out of themselves by having to live in the moment,
and all their anxieties are pushed aside.”
The French have taken “surf treatment” to a new level
by recognizing surfing as medically approved therapy.
The Atlantic seaside town of Biarritz, which also
happens to be the epicenter of surfing in Europe, started
a pilot program where doctors can prescribe 12 weeks of
surf lessons (as well as lessons in other selected sports)
to treat a variety of ailments. These include heart disease,
diabetes, chronic back pain and depression. After
six months, the results were widely praised by medical
professionals and patients alike. Some patients even
stopped all medication. Almost everyone who started the
program completed the full 12 weeks and almost all of
them continued to surf.
35Years
Future
Will TCI ever become a surf destination? In a word, “No.”
Quality waves are way too intermittent and always will
be. The breaks can be hard to reach and precarious for
those not familiar with the local reefs. But for a few local
surfers who know the waters, it will be a diversion to get
an opioid fix from time to time when a storm churns up
in the North Atlantic and brings in the swells.
In the meantime, much can be done to broaden the
exposure to a variety of other watersports in the Turks
& Caicos Islands. Already, a few clubs and camps here
offer excellent stand-up paddleboard, prone paddling
and open water swimming experiences that confer some
of the sensations of surfing. People with physical and
mental challenges should also be introduced to these
relatively safe activities. Then, on the days when small
waves roll over the local sandbars, they’ll be ready, with
help from island surfers, to get on a board, catch a wave,
and feel the rush of the first Surf Stoke. a
Assisting domestic and international clients for 35 years
Tel + 1 649 946 4602 • Fax + 1 649 946 4848
Email reception@savory-co.com • Website www.savory-co.com
TWATIMES_Layout 1 2/16/17 7:49 AM Page 1
Ben Stubenberg is a contributing writer to Times of the
Islands and an avid surfer and open water swimmer. He
is the co-founder of the sports and adventure excursion
company Caicu Naniki and the annual Turks & Caicos
“Race for the Conch” Eco-SeaSwim in July. Ben can be
reached at ben@caicunaniki.com.
Serving international & domestic clients in real estate, property development,
mortgages, corporate & commercial matters, immigration, & more.
TEL 649.946.4261 TMW@TMWLAW.TC WWW.TWAMARCELINWOLF.COM
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 43

COURTESY PROVO GOLF CLUB

feature
Opposite page: Everyone is welcome to drink, socialize and dine at Fairways in the elegant, air conditioned clubhouse at Provo Golf Club,
where 240 flags hang in neat rows from the rafters.
Above: If the flags could talk, Director of Golf Dave Douglas and Associate Professional Sean Wilson want to be the first to hear every word!
If These Flags Could Talk
Provo Golf Club turns 25 years old.
Story & Photos By Tim Cotroneo
Clubhouse newcomers at Provo Golf Club find it impossible to not look up. That’s because they are
greeted with 240 flags dancing from the rafters like multicolored acrobats. The flags represent many of
the most famous (and infamous) golf courses from around the world. Like everything and everyone you
meet here, there’s a story behind each and every flag.
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 45

As of April 2017, there were 240 flags from eight countries hanging on the ceiling at Provo Golf Club.
For nearly 25 years, Provo Golf Club has been a
magnet for golfers who’ve heard about Providenciales’
amazing island golf setting. In fact, the golf course’s
harmonious mix of vacationers and long-time club members
include nationalities ranging from Argentina to
New Zealand, and at least a dozen countries in between.
These members and returning players hoist flags to
Providenciales in the hopes of merging their stories with
the ones that rose before them.
Golf, laugh and bond
Almost since the golf course opened in 1992, Director of
Golf Dave Douglas has steered the Provo helm. Douglas
and his wife Denise turned a six-week 1993 winter vacation
from their native Sarnia, Ontario into a career, two
daughters, and more island stories than you can tell over
18 holes.
In 1996, a few years after Douglas arrived, fellow
Canadian Sean Wilson came on board during a whirlwind
tournament weekend at the Provo Golf Club. “I no sooner
showed up at the golf course and Dave’s boss asked me
to fork over $500 to help cover event expenses. At the
time, that was just about my life savings. Luckily the next
evening I won that same amount back in a putting tournament
that ran into the wee hours,” Wilson said. For Wilson
the overachiever, the stories started on day one.
Whether you’re visiting with Douglas, Wilson, one of
the caddies, or a fellow vacationer at the Fairways Bar
and Grill, the Provo Golf Club is a place where people
relax, savor a Turk’s Head beer and find a way to weave
their hometown values into the fabric of island life. There
seems to be something magical about golfing within a
wedge of Grace Bay Beach that makes you want to share
stories, laugh and bond.
Every golf flag tells a story
The golf flag tradition began when Douglas and Peter
Boyce, Provo’s initial golf professional, pondered what
they should do with the two flags Douglas brought to
Providenciales from his home courses in Canada. “I
asked Peter if I should hang my Strathroy Bear Creek and
Greenhills Country Club flags in the clubhouse restroom,”
Douglas laughed.
Boyce eventually hoisted these first two flags on the
ceiling above the bar area. Before long, a steady stream
of golfers brought flags of their own. Quite by accident,
46 www.timespub.tc

Provo Golf Club’s stately clubhouse was designed by renowned TCI-based architect Simon Wood over 25 years ago.
a tradition began. The back stories of these colorful banners range from funny, mysterious, and even sad.
Today’s array of flags is a wonderful mix of golf’s “Who’s Who” perched next to “Who’s That?” On one row you’ll
find iconic names like the Open Championship at Royal Troon, the 2000 Masters Championship, and the 2010
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 47

Hugh final_Layout 1 5/29/17 1:15 PM Page 1
This shot of the 13th hole (deemed “hazardous to your golf score”)
shows the lovely natural landscaping that is a hallmark of the course.
Ryders Cup. Amidst this portfolio of golf’s finest stands a
P
E
R
S
HUGH G. O’NEILL
ATTORNEYSN
AT
L AW
P.O. Box 267
Hibernian House
1136 Leeward Highway
Providenciales
Turks and Caicos Islands
B.W.I.
Tel 649-946-4514
Fax 649-946-4955
Email hugh.oneill@hgoneillco.tc
&
C
CO. O
N
F
I
D
E
N
T
I
A
L
tattered flag from San Pedro, CA. This flag represents The
19th Hole at Mule’s Sports Bar and Social Club. “Kenny
Carpenter showed up in 1997 during one of our Turks
& Caicos Amateur tournaments. He didn’t golf, but he
agreed to volunteer for the festivities. A few hours after
the tournament ended, Kenny died of a heart attack. The
Mule’s flag is our way of honoring Kenny,” Douglas said.
Counting flags
Douglas and Wilson both guessed low when a frequent
Providenciales vacationer inquired how many flags are
now on display. The Canadian dynamic duo were surprised
to learn that 240 flags, from eight countries, were
on hand to greet the next golfer to gaze skyward.
In 2017, Provo Golf Club turns 25 years old. The
island of Providenciales has grown in so many ways since
the golf course opened for business in 1992. The rainbow
of flags hanging from Provo’s clubhouse ceiling are
a time capsule linking Providenciales’ early days prior to
Grace Bay Beach becoming a tourism household word.
Many past and recent Provo golfers have promised
48 www.timespub.tc

What’s happening at Provo Golf Club
• Provo Golf Club is excited to announce plans to
re-turf the golf course with Platinum Paspalum grass
over the next two summers. During the four-month
re-turfing process (July to October), the course will
stay open as golfers can play the other nine twice.
The front nine will be completed this summer and
the back nine will be re-turfed in 2018.
• Since opening in 1992, Provo Golf Club has been
involved in raising $1.7 million for Providenciales
charities.
• On November 7, 2017 the golf club is celebrating
its 25th birthday. You’re invited to visit us at the
Fairways Bar and Grill and sing “Happy Birthday.”
David Feherty is Provo Golf Club’s official Club Ambassador.
to be on hand when the golf course celebrates its 25th
birthday in November. The nostalgic Douglas and Wilson
offered a challenge for those visiting the clubhouse for
the very first time. When you walk through the clubhouse
doors, try not to look up. a
Tim Cotroneo is a freelance writer specializing in
Caribbean travel, business and golf.
• There is at least a 50-50 chance of spotting NBC
and Golf Channel Analyst David Feherty at Provo Golf
Club. Feherty loves Providenciales and is Provo’s very
own Club Ambassador.
• Stay in touch with Provo Golf Club year-round with
our free mobile app. Book a tee time, utilize our
on-course GPS systems, access our food and beverage
menu, and even follow us on Facebook or Twitter.
Available on Apple ITUNES or Google Playstore. For
more information, visit www.provogolfclub.com.
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 49

ERA Katherine AdTimesSum17_Layout 1 5/2/17 2:14 PM Page 1
Provo Golf Club Real Estate
By Kathryn Brown, Director, ERA Coralie Properties
Not only is there an 18 hole championship golf
course, Provo Golf Club also offers an opportunity
to enjoy “golf club living” in a friendly and tranquil
environment. This residential community is very
family-oriented, incorporating townhomes, condominiums
and private homes. Along with golf there
are also tennis courts with an active tennis club.
Living on the course is casual and relaxing with
great views of the greens. The golf course is centrally
located to schools, shopping, and restaurants and,
best of all, you are approximately a five minute walk
from award-winning Grace Bay Beach.
There are a total of six townhome/condo developments
along the 1st, 10th and 18th fairways. Each
development has its own pool, parking and common
lawn areas. All are well maintained with some of the
older units now being bought and totally renovated,
making them brand-new again.
In comparison to other areas on Providenciales,
the golf course is considered very affordable living.
Strata (condo) fees are some of the lowest per square
foot on the island.
The first development was The Fairways, built in
1995 bordering the 18th fairway. There are 15 townhomes,
each with two bedrooms, ensuite baths and a
powder room. Next was The Palms, with another 15
units bordering the 1st fairway. In 1999, The Retreat
added another 12 units along the 1st fairway.
In 2003, Enclave 1 was completed with 18 units,
5 being three-bedroom, the rest the traditional twobedroom.
Enclave 2 followed within a couple of years.
The condo-style Villas, located along the 18th fairway,
were completed in 2007. With each new development
there were slight alterations to layouts or interiors.
Over the years individual units have sold and
increased in value as each owner improves and/or
maintains their home. Many units are occupied by
owners, some have long term tenants, and some
have vacation tenants; all that live in the community
enjoy it immensely.
There are also about 100 lots with homes built on
about 15. These are all privately owned and built to
owners’ wants and needs. There is still much opportunity
to be a part of this great little community.
Tel: 649 231-2329
Email: krbrown@era.tc
Web: www.eraturksandcaicos.com
Kathryn
Brown
Director ERA Coralie Properties Ltd.
Kathryn has 25 years successful
experience in Caribbean Real
Estate; she also benefits from
knowledge of the Turks and
Caicos Real Estate Association,
having been a founding member
and serving as President for five
years.
MLS 1600649
MLS 1600605
ERA Coralie Properties Ltd.
Other advantages include security gates at the
entrance, with on-site guards nightly. Roadways are
paved and have delightful names—Pebble Beach,
Augusta, Muirhead, Turnberry. A central water system
and power are ready at each lot for building.
Landscaping is done professionally, and on a stroll
along the roads you will enjoy the sounds of many
birds, the smells of jasmine and the sight of flowering
trees and bushes.
This lovely community is much sought-after,
as it is welcoming to all, safe and a great place to
live. Currently there are over 100 families enjoying
residence in the area surrounding the Provo Golf
Club—we look forward to those of you who wish to
join us. a
50 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe
newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi
tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org
These gears are from a 225 year-old Grandfather clock lovingly restored by Séamus Day.
SEAMUS DAY
It’s About Time
By Dr. Donald H. Keith, President, Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation
While assembling this issue of the Astrolabe, I was struck by how much of it is about time. Time is kind
of hard to define. It is only a concept, not something you can see, hold in your hand or put in a box. Time
is how we measure change. Without change, time is meaningless.
Séamus Day’s story “As Time Goes By,” about restoring a timepiece made by hand 225 years ago is
a direct result of Director Pat Saxton saying, “It’s about time we put that old clock back to work!” It took
a lot of time to complete the restoration and get the mechanism keeping time to within 1.5 seconds per
hour. Candianne William’s story “The First One,” about the earliest days of development on Providenciales
stems from a conversation with Bengt Soderqvist during which he observed, “It’s about time the first ones
got some recognition!”
Recently I told myself, “It’s about time I visited the Victoria Library to see the old documents they have
in storage.” But I didn’t, and now it’s too late. The library burned to the ground on March 9. All the old
documents were lost. That’s another thing about time: it doesn’t have a reverse gear. It does not offer
second chances. Lost opportunities do not circle back to present themselves again.
Speaking of opportunities, isn’t it about time we built a museum on Provo? This is the question the
Museum’s directors have been asking the community for several years. Now it is one of newly-elected
Chairman Séamus Day’s priorities going forward, working with architect Ron Shaw. We hope to be able
to present a comprehensive interior and exterior design in the next issue of Astrolabe. a
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 51

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
This is the face board of the 225 year-old Robert Crawford “Grandfather Clock” restored by TCNM
Chairman Séamus Day.
As Time Goes By . . .
This beloved “Grandfather” is restored to new life.
Story & Photos By Séamus Day, Chairman, Turks & Caicos National Museum
Director Patricia Saxton asked me whether I would be able to build a new wooden long case for the Robert
Crawford “Grandfather Clock” mechanism generously donated to the Museum by Mr. Hugh Hutchings
(featured in the Spring 2012 Astrolabe). The clock had a very interesting story behind it and being a selftaught
amateur woodworker I thought the project would be a challenge that would help improve my skill
base, so I readily agreed to have a go.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Some time later the clock mechanism arrived at my
workshop and, never having done anything like this
before, I thought I should do some research and learn
about all things “Grandfather clock.” The internet is a
great resource in this respect, especially YouTube. But
there was very little to go by in terms of what the old case
might have looked like or its overall dimensions other
than some grainy photos and a picture of a clock hood
with an oval face, which did not seem to fit the round face
of the Crawford clock works.
Apart from the design, structure and aesthetic of the
case, wood movement was a prime consideration. Wood
expands across its width as it takes on moisture from the
atmosphere due to humidity increases. This is why doors
sometimes jam after a wet period, but shrink as they dry
and lose moisture—a challenge for fine joinery if jammed
doors, cracks and splits are to be avoided. I therefore
decided to use cabinet-grade, quarter-sawn white oak
(Quercus alba), renowned for its stability and longevity,
and ordered the rough sawn lumber from Advantage Trim
& Lumber, a specialist supplier in Sarasota, Florida. (The
clock case originally may have been made with some type
of mahogany. As Jacobean period oak furniture demonstrates,
eventually the oak will take on a dark patina and
become dark brown, almost black in some cases.)
After the rough-sawn lumber arrived, I left it to dry
in my workshop for over a year. Eventually I started to
convert the rough boards into something resembling
workable lumber before leaving them again to settle down
and stabilize for several more months while I worked out
how I was actually going to build the case, and to what
design and dimensions.
I decided to build a full size “jig” or mockup frame
made with MDF (medium density fibreboard), plywood
and 2 x 4 lumber. This was essential to discover the limits
of the swing of the pendulum and the travel of the
weights from top to bottom. From this I was able to calculate
the rough proportions needed for the entire case,
which typically consists of three main parts—the base,
the waist and the hood.
The Crawford is a typical “8 day clock,” meaning that
it takes 8 days for the weight-driven mechanism to fully
descend before it needs to be rewound. “Winding” the
clock merely carries the weights back to the top of the
mechanism and this is performed by using a key inserted
into the winder on the face of the clock.
From top: This mockup of the clock frame was used to determine the
finished cabinet’s dimensions.
The handmade clock mechanism and chime reflect the original craftsman’s
excellent work.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
These are some of the hand tools used to build the clock’s case.
There are two separate weights—one drives the
time-keeping mechanism of the clock itself, while the
other powers the chimes. The familiar “tick, tock” as the
pendulum gently swings from side to side merely regulates
the beat or timing of the clock and is adjusted by
moving the pendulum weight or “bob” up and down via
a threaded bar, which in this case was with surprising
accuracy for a clock over 225 years old!
Once the mockup jig was completed I carefully
assembled the mechanism from its boxes. The incredibly
delicate hand-cut clock hands made me nervous just
touching them in case one broke. Then I realized the
pendulum suspension spring, suspension bracket and
pendulum crutch were all broken. As there are no historical
clock spare parts shops on Grand Turk, I had to
find some small strips of brass and light spring steel to
make new ones myself, filing them entirely by hand to the
required dimensions.
With everything in place, the mechanism serviced,
and very lightly oiled at key bearing points, I wound the
weights to the top of the movement, and a gentle swing
of the pendulum was enough to bring the entire clock
back to life; big grins all ‘round!
The clock quickly settled into its steady “tick, tock,
tick, tock,” but about an hour later it completely caught
me by surprise when it started chiming! I had been
concentrating on the clock timing mechanism and had
almost forgotten about the chimes—yet another resplendent
moment during the process!
Over the next several weeks the soporific “tick, tock”
of the clock became a very familiar and comforting sound
as I worked on the oak case or did other things in the
workshop. I fiddled around with the pendulum adjustment,
eventually getting it within 1.5 seconds per hour
in terms of accuracy. Again, this reflects the extremely
impressive craftsmanship by the clockmaker for something
made entirely by hand over 225 years ago!
Once I decided on the final dimensions and had a
rough idea of what the finished design should look like,
I set to work on building the base. Eventually I realized
this was a mistake. I should have started at the top of the
case, building the hood first. The roughly dimensioned
boards had to be carefully selected for figure and colour
match to make sure they were perfectly square and parallel,
ready for the precise joinery and planing. Given the
dimensions of the clock, some boards had to be very
carefully jointed and glued to give me the width I needed
over and above the board width I had to work with.
“Quarter sawn” wood, although expensive and somewhat
wasteful, is very stable as the grain orientation
allows for minimum movement across its width. Another
bonus is that you get to the see the beautiful “medullary
rays,” or flecking as a part of the figure of the wood,
which is not normally visible on “through” or “rift” sawn
lumber. This figure is apparent on most of the case sides
and is a nice feature of the finished clock.
Although I used some machines—jointer, planer and
table saw to convert the material into rough dimensions—
most of the fine work and joinery was completed entirely
by hand with hand planes, chisels, scrapers, spoke shaves
for the curves, and other hand tools, exactly as it would
have been when the original case was built towards the
end of the 1700s. This was particularly so with some of
the moldings, as I did not have the right shaper bits. I cut
the large coving at the top and bottom of the waist by
pushing the wood over the spinning table saw blade at
40º entry angle. It eventually produced the desired hollow
form, despite the amount of scraping and sanding
required afterwards to achieve a decent quality finish.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
By far the most challenging of the three “boxes” that
make up the clock case is its hood, and my research
showed that no two are ever the same. However, you have
to start somewhere, so by working out the radius required
to build the wooden dial board that borders the clock face,
I was able to go from there and design and build the rest of
the hood. I built a mock plywood form first to ensure the
critical dimensions were accurate as there was no room for
error in using the finish material.
At this point proportions also became very important,
as I felt many clock hoods I had seen images of appeared
top-heavy and overly adorned. After all, this was just a
simple country-style clock and not an ostentatious piece
that would be at home in a palace, so I opted for a break
arch pediment and a simple finial typical of the period.
Glass for the face doorframe was the next hurdle
as there is nowhere you can buy glass on Grand Turk.
Pat Saxton came to the rescue with a glass pane from
an old picture frame that could be re-cut to fit the new
door. I completely messed up cutting the glass and ended
hand-sanding it to the final dimensions rather than risk
breaking it by attempting a very narrow cut.
I turned the doorknobs for the waist and hood and
the hood decorative finial on the lathe after laminating
some smaller scrap pieces together to give me the starting
dimensions I needed. Then I made the back of the
case from solid walnut (Juglans regia), as plywood did
not exist at the time the original was made. This only left
putting it all together for final fitting and testing and then
applying a suitable finish.
I don’t like polyurethane type finishes, as you cannot
feel the wood and appreciate it if it is covered in a thin
film of hard plastic. I decided to blend my own finish with
a mixture of boiled linseed oil, tung oil, turpentine and
melted bee’s wax. I applied three coats of finish by hand
with a day in-between each coat, allowing the wood to
absorb it and for the finish to cure. A final buffing with a
bee’s wax-based polish and after 140+ hours of work, it
was all done!
I thoroughly enjoyed the process, learned a great
deal along the way, and I hope I did Mr. Hutchings’ donation
justice. I also hope that after all the traveling and
many different countries and environments the clock has
endured over the years that the Turks & Caicos National
Museum will be able to give it a safe, stable home for at
least another two centuries! a
From top: The illustration depicts two English frigates in pursuit of
another vessel.
“Island of Fort Castries,” corresponding to modern Gibbs Cay, is
clearly marked on this 18th century French map of the Turks Islands.
The finished clock is on display in the Museum’s 19th-century government
office exhibit.
Director’s note: Thank you, Séamus for all the hard work
and hours you put into making this lovely clock come
to life. The first time I saw the finished product I was
gobsmacked. I could not believe that the box of parts
we took up to your workshop morphed into this stately
Grandfather clock. I got chills when I heard the tick-tock
and even more when the chimes played for the first time
in decades.
The clock is now on display in the 19th century
Governor’s exhibit in the Museum. This clock has an
incredible history, starting in the late 1700s. Crossing
oceans and listening to conversations of Administrators
and their families . . . the stories it could tell! Thank you
Hugh Hutchings, and thank you Séamus Day!
PAT SAXTON
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Clockwise from top left: The only known photo of the 65-foot, ex-Army
T Boat Seven Dwarfs taken during one of its voyages from Florida
to Provo. Note the Jeep riding jauntily on the rear deck and drums
of fuel lining the side of the deckhouse. It is thought to have sunk
somewhere in Chesapeake Bay many years later after a long and productive
life.
The first motor vehicle to “set tire” on Providenciales is carefully
rolled off the Seven Dwarfs after a harrowing 600 mile voyage from
Florida.
The only known photo of the four-seat Cessna 180 N9174C, poised
on Provo’s original airstrip. Note the “C.A.L.” letters under the wing:
“Caicos Airways Ltd.”
The First One
A “Grandfather” of Provo remembers the island’s first vehicle.
By Candianne Williams ~ Historical Photos Courtesy Bengt Soderqvist
Today, there are approximately 25,000 vehicles zipping along the network of roads and highways on the
island of Providenciales, including personal, rented, corporate and utility vehicles. This stands in stark
contrast to November 22, 1966 when there was only one. That was fifty years ago and Bengt Soderqvist,
Managing Director of Provident Ltd., remembers it as if it were only yesterday.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
In October 1966, three men set out from Delray
Beach, Florida on an adventurous journey to begin
the project that would totally change the landscape of
Providenciales and set it on the path to becoming one
of the most acclaimed tourist destinations in the world.
Their task was to begin the development of 4,000 acres
of Crown Land as per a lease agreement with the Turks &
Caicos Government. Called Provident Ltd., the company
had a lease with the option to buy the land upon completion
of the terms of the agreement.
The requirements were formidable. At the time, Provo
had little contact with the outside world. There were no
docks or marinas, no airstrip, no roads and not even a
single telephone. Starting from scratch, the developers
had to construct a 4,500-foot crushed-coral-surfaced airstrip,
roads to link the three original settlements of Blue
Hills, The Bight, and Five Cays, a hotel with at least ten
rooms(!), a jetty at Five Cays, and a safe anchorage at
Sellar’s Pond (now Turtle Cove Marina). Naturally, all this
work created employment for many Islanders. With some
changes and improvements to the original agreement,
Provident delivered and was able to purchase the 4,000
acres of land in 1971. The rest, as they say, is history.
To start the project Fritz Ludington, Tommy Coleman,
and Bengt Soderqvist loaded a boat with every conceivable
item of building materials and equipment that they
would need, all too cognizant of the fact, according to
Bengt, “that there was no Do It Center hardware store to
go to.” Nor were there any vehicles—or even roads—on
the island so they brought an old jeep to help them get
around.
The boat that made that inaugural journey was the
Seven Dwarfs, the nickname by which the group of developers
who owned Provident were known. The story of
the origin of the name, as told by Bengt Soderqvist, is as
follows, “One day early in the project during a meeting in
Grand Turk between the group of developers and government
officials, there was disagreement about something
that required a brief recess by the government negotiators.
In their absence Rogers Morton (one of the seven
developers) asked ‘Who do these guys think they’re dealing
with—The Seven Dwarfs?!’” After the laughter died
down they decided they liked the sobriquet and it stuck
with them even to this day.
The boat Seven Dwarfs came to Providenciales after
docking at South Caicos, because that is where the
First in flight
Another one of those hands-on pioneers during the
early years of development on Providenciales is Mr.
Embry Rucker, who signed on with Provident Ltd. in
1966. Fortunately for the history of the TCI, Embry
did something almost no one else who participated
in the development of Provo did: he wrote a memoir
covering those amazing years, Coming In for a
Landing.
Embry was a pilot, but a pilot can’t do much
without an airplane, and an airplane can’t do much
without an airstrip, so that had to come first. Having
made several of the trips from Florida to Provo on the
Seven Dwarfs (during which he fell overboard twice!),
Embry was itching to get into full-time flying. His
opportunity came when the first short, rough airstrip
was finished and Fritz Luddington’s wife’s 4-seat
Cessna 180 became the first plane in the Caicos
Airways “fleet.”
Embry has been a supporter of the Museum
since it opened its doors 25 years ago. The passing
of his old shipmate Tommy Coleman in 2013
inspired Embry to commission a 1:22 scale model
of the Seven Dwarfs in his memory to be included in
the Museum’s future exhibit on how the phenomenally
rapid growth of development on Provo began.
He commissioned the model of Cessna N9174C in
memory of his good friend, Finbar Dempsey. It was
the plane Embry used to fly him around the Islands
to hold court at the widely scattered settlements. The
models are in storage in the US, awaiting the construction
of the National Museum’s exhibit facility on
Providenciales. a
Candianne Williams
This is the model of N9174C, the first “airline”
in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
DONALD KEITH
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 57

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Customs Department was located. From there experienced
seamen Gustavus Lightbourne (a member of the
Legislative Assembly) and Charlie Rigby successfully navigated
the boat to Wheeland on Provo where they anchored
in front of Mr. Lightbourne’s house. The following day
they went inside the reef to Leeward Going Through,
passing “Done Bobbin’ Point,” so named because it was
the point where the waters calmed and the boat stopped
its bouncing motion. It is one of Bengt’s favorite name
recollections and understandably so.
This is the three-foot long model of Seven
Dwarfs, the boat that brought development to
Providenciales.
Museum matters
Grace Bay campus news
By Candianne Williams
Governor’s visit
His Excellency Governor Dr. John Freeman and his wife
Corrine visited the Museum’s Grace Bay Campus on
March 2. Museum representative Candianne Williams
gave them a tour of the historical timeline in the
Development Office and the Caicos Heritage House and
Garden Exhibit.
DONALD KEITH
They finally anchored in the Leeward Channel. The
plan was to unload the boat at Heaving Down Rock.
Although the channel itself is deep, at that time it was
choked with conch shells and mud so they had to clear a
path to shore by skillfully using the propeller of the boat.
With the Seven Dwarfs safely moored, Tommy
Coleman, Alfred Stubbs, and others from The Bight
worked unloading on the dock while Bengt walked all the
way to Turtle Cove surveying and clearing a path for the
jeep to follow.
On November 22, 1966 the jeep was finally driven off
the boat onto Providenciales. Bengt said back then it took
about one hour to drive from Heaving Down Rock to The
Bight. When the jeep arrived it was quite a memorable
occasion for all, especially for the many excited children
who got to ride in a motor vehicle for the first time.
Occasionally, as I drive along the network of roads
here to get to wherever I need to be in mere minutes,
Bengt’s recollections from fifty years ago come to mind.
Then I pause to imagine a very different landscape and
one lone, open Jeep lurching and bouncing along slowly
following a cow path through the bush, and it gives me a
greater appreciation for the landscape and the pioneers
who blazed the trail. a
58 www.timespub.tc
HE Governor Dr. John Freeman, Corrine Freeman and Museum representative
Candianne Williams tour the Caicos Heritage House.
The Governor said that he got a good sense of the
history and cultural richness of the Islands from his visits
to both the Museum in Grand Turk and the satellite
campus in Providenciales and encouraged the Museum
to continue the good work, particularly with school
groups and visitors. a
The “Weis” guys
Catherine and Molly Weis, daughters of longtime
Pine Cay residents Dr. Tom and “Mudder” Jean Weis,
NIMROL BECKLES

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
CANDIANNE WILLIAMS
Molly and Cathy Weis have fond memories of North Caicos, brought
to life during a recent visit to the Museum’s Providenciales campus.
dropped by to visit the Caicos Heritage House Exhibit on
February 28. As they reminisced about their days living
and working on North Caicos, Catherine shared some of
her fond memories with me. She paused at the field basket
on exhibit to go back to the times she accompanied
her friend Berthalee Belle to sow seeds in the garden.
The sisters are very passionate about preserving
the rich heritage of the Turks & Caicos Islands and I was
delighted to meet them after hearing so much about their
family. We at the Museum are very grateful to the Weis
family for the major role they played in the establishment
of the Caicos Heritage House Exhibit. We look forward to
welcoming them again. a
History and cultural heritage quiz
The winner of this year’s Turks & Caicos National Museum
History and Cultural Heritage Quiz is the team from
North Caicos’ Raymond Gardiner High School. Second
place winner is H. J. Robinson High School from Grand
Turk. It was evident that the teams from the six schools
that participated were prepared and all performed well.
Congratulations to the students, teachers and parents
and thank you for nurturing interest in the history and
culture of these Islands!
Both the preliminary round and the finals were held
on March 7 at Brayton Hall. Minister of Education, Youth
and Sports Hon. Josephine Connolly made remarks
and trophy presentations. Edgar Howell, Director of
The winning team was from Raymond Gardiner High School, North
Caicos (from left): Avielle Brown, Kobe Forbes and Ovancia Gardiner.
Education, and Ludwina Fulford, Director of Culture,
along with Museum Director Patricia Saxton made
remarks and also presented certificates, trophies and
gifts to the participants. The winning team and their
coach, Stacie Ann Green Taylor, will receive a prize trip
and tour of historic Cap Haitien. The second place winners
will receive a prize trip and historic tour of one
of the Turks & Caicos Islands. In addition to trophies,
all participants received certificates of participation and
backpacks. Raymond Gardiner High School will keep the
challenge trophy for the year.
Special thanks to our sponsors: Fortis TCI, TC Reef
Fund, Caicu Naniki, Marco Travel and the Department of
Education; our distinguished judges led by Don Stark;
Moderator Rachel Taylor; Bradford Handfield for technical
support; and our wonderful facilitators and support
teams from the Department of Education and the Turks
& Caicos National Museum. a
TALISHA SIMONS
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 59

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Chairman’s address
I was first introduced to the Turks & Caicos Islands
National Museum (TCNM) on only my second day in
the TCI. The memory of historic “Guinep House,” set
in an incredible oceanfront location overlooking the
Columbus Landfall National Park with its impossible
turquoise waters and powder-white sands, is indelibly
etched into my mind. Can there be another museum
in such a majestic setting anywhere? At that time I
knew nothing of the important work undertaken in the
Donald H. Keith Science Building situated immediately
behind Guinep House—restoring and stabilizing a myriad
artifacts and storing and preserving the extensive
museum archive in carefully climate controlled conditions,
with “wet and dry” laboratories, workshops and
offices.
Once inside Guinep House I was immediately
impressed at the quality of the exhibits and the sheer
volume and diversity of history spanning over 1,000
years that is literally packed into such a seemingly
small space. It covers everything from the pre-Columbian
Indians, marine archeology and the salt and sisal
eras all the way to the Space Age and everything in
between. And of course, the 200 year-old building is a
working exhibit in its own right. It is therefore no wonder
that the TCNM is so often described as a “national
treasure” and a “little gem.”
Over time, the TCNM has developed into a repository
of critical, national historic importance, eloquently
noted and described by HE Governor Dr. John Freeman
after a recent visit. Conversely, it is also a fact recently
brought into sharp relief at the sad demise of the
Victoria Public Library, an event that left the entire TCI
in a state of shock. It was not just the loss of a familiar
place where many friends met and studied after school,
but the incalculable loss of historic documents that are
now forever gone.
Accordingly, it has never been more important
to secure and preserve the history of these amazing
Islands and their people, and to ensure there is never
a repeat of such a tragedy. The TCNM already plays a
national leading role in this regard.
In recent years, as I became a little more involved
in the Museum and helped out with odd jobs and at
occasional fund-raising events, I truly recognized the
importance of the work undertaken and felt that I would
like to have a greater level of involvement. I then had the
honour of being elected to the Board of Directors and
now have the pleasure of working alongside an esteemed,
dynamic and experienced Board, some of which have
served since the Museum’s inception—for instance, Hon.
Derek Taylor, Tom Saunders, the Seim family and Dr.
Donald Keith. I felt particularly humbled to be nominated
and subsequently elected to Chairman of the Board by the
current Director and Museum stalwart Patricia Saxton.
It is a distinct honor, a privilege and a serious obligation
to officially become part of such a special and
unique institution, especially one that has succeeded in
its mission statement of being a not-for-profit organization
aimed at “recording, interpreting, preserving and
celebrating the history of the Turks & Caicos Islands and
its people.”
From the relatively humble beginnings of a partially
dilapidated Guinep House, the Museum has added the
science building, many new and exhibiting exhibits, a
gift shop, children’s club, cruise ship tours, a botanical
and cultural garden, and more recently, an outpost
in Providenciales in the form of the Caicos Heritage
House. All of this takes hard work and dedication and
the Museum has been blessed with an amazingly strong
and knowledgeable current operations team of mainly
Belongers and committed volunteers, who, over the
years, have hailed from every corner of the globe.
The Turks & Caicos National Museum was founded
due to the incredible foresight and seemingly endless
generosity of the late Mrs. Grethe Seim. However, with
an eroding endowment and multiple other challenges,
the Museum finds itself in a relatively precarious position
and the strategy, direction and focus for the future has
become ever-more important.
While Grand Turk will remain the primary focus and
headquarters for the TCNM, there is considerable merit in
expanding even further on Providenciales and developing
a significant museum facility there. After all, we are a
“national” museum by definition, and many of the artifacts
currently on display in Grand Turk and held in the
archive are more relevant to the Caicos Islands. We also
have enough artifacts to fill both properties, with many
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
currently hidden away in the archive due to lack of display
space. The development will not be at the expense of the
Grand Turk facility; Providenciales will have to be a financially
self supporting, stand-alone facility operated under
the current executive umbrella.
This proposed expansion will open up all sorts of
new possibilities and tap into the lucrative “fly in” traveler
market, creating new diversified revenue streams, which
can help to secure the Museum’s financial and physical
future, while allowing access to a far wider audience. We
will feature news of this exciting new project as it develops.
This is all made possible with the generous support
of R. A. Shaw Designs, the TCI’s pre-eminent architectural
and property design company. We are currently undertaking
a serious exercise to develop a notable, multi-use
facility in the Grace Bay area on land the Museum already
owns, with Ron Shaw and Grand Turk native Ricky James
working from a “blank canvas” perspective to conceptualize
this exciting next stage in the TCNM’s history.
While the execution may be some time off, the intent
is serious. In the meantime we still need the help and
continuing support of the public, private and government
sectors to keep the Grand Turk facility operating, if we
are to continue with the amazing work the TCNM has
undertaken for the next 26 years and beyond.
The TCNM, any museum, is so much more than just a
place where “old stuff is kept.” It is an important national
repository, a historical and educational center, a national
treasure trove, a retreat and a snapshot of our past.
You can help by becoming a member or making a
donation through the “Friends of TCNM” 501(c)(3) registered
not-for-profit, making donations from the US
tax deductable. Both options come with various benefits,
details of which can be found on our website
www.tcmuseum.org and on the form at right.
Membership costs are modest, but go a long way to
sustaining the institution. I appeal to every individual,
resort and business in the TCI to become a member of
the TCNM and proudly display our logo on your property
or vehicle to demonstrate your support for this national
institution.
In addition to membership and donations, various
fund-raisers to support the TCNM are undertaken
throughout the year. Please support these events and
check in regularly on our website for the latest news.
The 2017 Annual Grand Turk Fisherman’s
Tournament fund-raiser (held on Governor’s Beach on
June 17 and 18) will be supporting critical infrastructural
repair works to historic Guinep House this year.
Perhaps you have an idea for a fund-raiser of your own?
If so, please reach out!
I would also like to take this opportunity to thank
everyone that has ever been involved, or continues to
be involved in the Museum in any capacity. There are
far too many to mention, but without you so little of
what has been achieved would have been possible.
Please continue to support YOUR National Museum.
To do so is to recognize and endorse the important
work the Museum undertakes and play your very own
part in preserving the fascinating history of these beautiful
Turks & Caicos Islands. a
Join the Museum
Séamus Day
Become a Member and receive a year’s subscription
to Times of the Islands (which includes
Astrolabe), free admission to the Museum, and a
Members’ Discount in the Museum Shop.
Senior (62+) $35
Individual $50
Family/Friend $100
Sponsor $250
Contributor $500
Partner $750
To join*, send name, address, email, and type of
membership, along with cheque or money order
payable to “Turks & Caicos National Museum” to:
Friends of the Turks & Caicos National
Museum
39 Condesa Road
Santa Fe, NM 87508 USA
Or, visit:
www.tcmuseum.org/membership-support/
*For U.S. residents, support of the Museum is tax-deductible
via Friends of the Turks & Caicos National Museum, Attn:
Donald H. Keith, 39 Condesa Road, Santa Fe NM 87508, our
affiliated institution and registered 501 (c) (3).
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 61

crossing africa
Clockwise from top: TCI native Mario Rigby continues on his journey of Crossing Africa (Cape
to Cairo), here traveling from Tanzania to Ethiopia. While on Zanzibar Island in Tanzania,
Mario enjoyed meeting locals, seeing white sand beaches much like those in Turks & Caicos,
making new friends, and experiencing a very different culture and heritage.
Crossing Africa Update
The journey from Tanzania to Ethiopia.
Compiled by Claire Parrish ~ Photos By Mario Rigby
We last left Mario Rigby, the Turks & Caicos-born Crossing Africa walker at Zanzibar Island, Tanzania. It’s
a place not unlike the Islands with its white sand beaches, sea breezes and turquoise blue ocean, but with
a very different culture and heritage, prevalent in its lively historic centre and world heritage site Stone
Town. Mario had always known Cape to Cairo wouldn’t just be about endurance, but more than ever it is
about people: “I want to know the culture, the thinking of the locals and completely
immerse myself.” You can track where Mario is currently at www.mariorigby.wordpress.com or follow
him on Facebook at Crossing Africa.
62 www.timespub.tc

Whilst his 31st birthday was spent on Zanzibar, a year
earlier his 30th had been spent on the inaugural flight
to South Africa. Clearly a lot has happened since, and
Mario’s emotions sway from the positive, “If you don’t do
this you will miss out on something uniquely beautiful,”
to reality, “I make it appear easy, believe me it’s not.”
He expects the most difficult part of the journey will be
ahead, with more time in Tanzania, then Kenya, Ethiopia,
Northern Sudan and Egypt—all on foot.
But in the spirit of “enjoy the day,” Mario savoured
Stone Town’s many tiny streets and met locals and visitors,
including Eva and Fabia from Austria, who had
taught and volunteered at a school in Zanzibar for two
months. In their final week’s stay in Africa they renovated
their school building to improve the quality of their
students’ learning environment. Mario got to help. The
young teachers raised funds through family and friends
and when remaining funds went to a local orphanage,
Mario met more smiles.
Mario’s travel philosophy is “Meet and talk with
locals and hear their needs. Be free! Meaning let go of
constraints brought about by fear or by other people,
including your friends, family, media, etc. ‘Be free’ is a
phrase I use when I see someone enjoying life and pushing
boundaries, it’s when I see someone taking a chance
even as small as trying out a new meal on a menu.” In
Swahili Mario adds, “Karibu sana—you’re welcome.”
Mario posted a media headline, “Eight people own the
same wealth as half the world—Oxfam report the gap
between the world’s richest and poorest is even greater
than feared.” Helping those he meets on his travels has
become very important to him, as has reporting their trials
and tribulations.
Back on mainland Tanzania, tough alone-time on
the road takes its expected mental toll, until the two
Charlottes come along. Little did he know that one of
the Charlottes would join him for the next 1,000 km! All
are headed to the Tanzania capital of Dodoma, a halfway
point between North and South Africa. Stunning scenery
and kind inspirational locals made the journey easier.
A man called Fadhili in a village called Mawala shared
his home and fed the threesome some of the best food
they had ever eaten. The hospitable host and his wife
were truly inspirational, doing great things locally. They
were actively implementing measures to make the surrounding
tiny villages self-sustaining and economically
independent.
Dodoma was a stunning capital but the trio soon
move on to Arusha. Here they have the pleasure of visiting
an orphanage school which is housing and feeding
young boys who used to be street kids. Once a wellfunded
project, it no longer was, leaving 30+ boys with
one counselor and next to nothing in living conditions.
You can learn more about the orphanage at www.mariorigby.com/chiswea.
CHISEWEA stands for “Children of
the Street Welfare Association.”
Getting into Kenya, Mario and Charlotte were spoiled
by lovely locals offering a place to sleep, and traditional
food. East Africa was proving safe and hospitable. Lamu
Island, and Shela Beach there, held some fun memories.
With few cars on the island Mario made friends with the
local transport, donkeys.
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 63

Next was meant to be Nairobi (or so Mario thought),
but he and Charlotte got led astray and ended up climbing
Mount Kenya. Days after the tough climb to the peak
of Point Lenana (4,985 metres high), Mount Kenya, with
Neil (a traveller he’d met a year ago) and his friends,
Mario reflected, “Challenging yourself is not about competing
with others or yourself, but it is a requirement in
order to explore what this good earth has to offer us. I
strive to stay inquisitive, to learn something new each day
and live each day as it comes.”
In Nairobi, Mario and Charlotte got to relax in the
Southern Sun Mayfair Hotel courtesy of its general manager
and Mario eventually succeeded in getting hold of a
visa for entry into Ethiopia the following month.
Some river rafting provided Mario and Charlotte a break
from the road before continuing on foot to Channia Falls
at Thika in Kenya. Here, Mario notes he can feel the tension
and dangers getting closer as Ethiopia beckons; the
north of the country faces domestic disputes over water
shortages and cattle.
They continue (crossing the Equator!) to beautiful
Nanyuki that sits next to Mount Kenya. Mario now sports
a SpotMe device on his front shoulder strap, so he can be
tracked at all times. This element of safety will be especially
important going into Ethiopia, Sudan and Egypt; a
press of a button and a SpotMe rescue team is alerted.
Mario discovers the Maasai people base their diet
almost entirely on milk and are genetically predisposed
with a positive lactose tolerance. A milkman on the road
offered Mario a cold drink of milk one day—it hit the spot.
As they head to Isiola, central Kenya, the business of a
Kenyan election campaign is well underway. With a current
national drought emergency over half of Kenya there
was much for government to be doing.
Kibera in West Nairobi is home to the largest slum
in Africa and third largest in the world. The children are
often affected by harsh conditions that the government
chooses to ignore. Mario and Charlotte had the honor of
joining Fútbol Más for a fun football training session to
help the children of the Kibera region forget about the
hard conditions surrounding them, if only for a moment.
The terrain becomes desert-like at Archers Post in
north central Kenya; temperatures are 35ºC+, and wonderful
Samburu children join on foot for 5 km. The
desert is ahead and that means at Sabache Camp in the
Namunyak Conservation Trust area of northern Kenya it
was time to learn how to tame a camel, for use during
the desert walk across Northern Ethiopia and Sudan.
Long roads and desert scenes soon abound. Joined by
Charlotte for Mario’s first desert walk, volcanic rock turns
into dust and the fascinating journey is documented by
Charlotte through photos.
64 www.timespub.tc

The Turkana Tribe people of Loiyangalani on Lake
Turkana (the largest desert lake in the world) leave Mario
in awe. He enjoys a cultural festival at the lake made up
of Kenyans and travel journalists, showcasing dancing
and rituals. “These people are rare, very tall and strong,
proud, kind-hearted and calm,” says Mario. Living off fish
and lake water in the Chalbi desert in 40ºC heat it’s amazing
they survive.
Mario and Charlotte’s toughest journey was crossing
from Marsabit to Moyale through the Turbo Desert at
the Ethiopian border. “Covering 16 km a day was all we
could muster,” Mario remarks. An awful massacre in the
Marsabit area in 2005 was on their minds—the previous
violence impossible not to think of.
Kenya had happened almost too quickly, Mario felt.
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Until the next update, Ethiopia to North Sudan, please
help Mario on his journey by visiting the following sites:
www.mariorigby.com/store and www.gofundme.com/
crossingafrica. Keep walking Mario. a
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 65

food for thought
Opposite page: The upstairs sports game room is a cool, breezy spot to play a game of dominoes or pool.
Above: Coconut Grove’s conch fritters are rich in flavor and cooked to a turn.
Chillin’ in the Grove
Coconut Grove Restaurant & Lounge opens in downtown Provo.
Story & Photos By Dominique Rolle, Caya Hico Media
A quote by Colin Powell resonates with me when I think of the new restaurant Coconut Grove in downtown
Providenciales, “A dream doesn’t become reality through magic; it takes sweat, determination and hard
work.” This was the driving force behind two young entrepreneurs to bring their dreams to existence.
Coconut Grove Restaurant & Lounge was established by local entrepreneurs Wellington Williams, 21,
and Nosben Clerisier, 27. Both young men are a product of Turks & Caicos, having schooled locally at
Clement Howell High School before matriculating to Turks & Caicos Community College. They’ve created
an oasis to enjoy local cuisine made the authentic Turks & Caicos way.
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 67

At the community college, Wellington Williams
excelled in Food & Beverage Services and Hospitality
Management whilst Nosben Clerisier shined in Hotel and
Tourism Management alongside Building and Design.
Subsequently, Wellington progressed to a four star hotel
on Grace Bay Beach where he was employed as Guest
Service Agent and Personal Concierge. Here he exceeded
expectations on the job, walking away with several accolades
including being named the TripAdvisor Employee of
the Year.
Nosben, who is an excellent mixologist, has over
15 years of experience in the restaurant business. He
gained vast knowledge in several establishments across
Providenciales, working his way up to Head Bartender
at Caicos Café and attaining the position of Assistant
General Manager at the popular Coco Bistro restaurant.
Of his journey Nosben says, “Success is attainable to any
man, you just have to reach for it.” It was a reach made
together that birthed Coconut Grove.
Tucked away in a plaza just behind Providenciales’
bustling downtown, Coconut Grove is a peaceful tropical
haven—with the ocean and beach replaced by a crystalline
pool and sprawling patio enclosure. The main dining
area includes brightly painted picnic benches shaded by
lofty coconut palms; leafy lounge areas near the pool
offer a more private dining experience.
Visiting Coconut Grove for lunch gave me the chance
to sample the delectable menu I’d been hearing about
through the island grapevine—both by word of mouth
and on social media. I wasn’t disappointed. “Conchy”
conch fritters, fried to perfection. Sumptuous sweet and
sour cracked conch, served with mango salsa and fresh
plantain strips. Juicy oxtails, peas ‘n’ rice, and delicious
chicken tacos—I tried it all! What was most apparent was
the obvious care taken to prepare and serve each dish;
everything was imaginatively conceived, well-seasoned,
cooked to perfection and beautifully plated. I imagine
that both locals and tourists will appreciate the tasty,
reasonably priced fare, tranquil atmosphere and friendly,
careful service.
I came to the restaurant myself, then quickly invited
friends for ice-cold beers and a few rounds of dominoes
and pool on the breezy entertainment deck upstairs.
Replete with flat screens and a live DJ, we ended up
having a “super-chilled” day. With Nosben’s refreshing
From top: Wellington Williams serves up a bottle of Turk’s Head
Brewery’s new amber beer, “Gon-Ta Nort” at the popular bar at
Coconut Grove.
Coconut-crusted corn on the cob reflects the intriguing mix of creativity
and good taste found in the fare.
68 www.timespub.tc

Oxtails are a TCI favorite—they never looked (or tasted) so good as this Brew version ad cooked May 2017_Layout with flavors 1 from 5/11/17 Middle 10:51 Caicos. AM Page 1
cocktails (the signature rum punch is a secret recipe) and
a view of the restaurant from the deck, lunch at Coconut
Grove felt like a VIP experience.
I can say that this level of dining is something you
don’t normally experience outside the waterfront restaurants
of Turtle Cove and Grace Bay, and certainly not
at the affordable prices available at Coconut Grove.
Delicious meals in a relaxing tropical environment downtown—something
refreshingly original for Provo is being
cooked up at Coconut Grove.
Besides being the driving force behind the restaurant,
Wellington Williams designs and crafts the most beautiful
and original beach sand jewelry. It is for sale at The
Wellington Collection store adjacent to the restaurant.
Coupled with the added advantage of its stone’s throw
proximity to the Junkanoo Museum and Turk’s Head
Brewery tours makes Coconut Grove Restaurant part of a
day of “downtown” activities for locals and tourists alike.
a
For more information, call 649 941 7300 or email coconutgrove@yahoo.com
or visit Facebook Coconut Grove
Restaurant & Lounge for daily lunch specials.
Turk’s Head Brewery
Brewery Tours Monday-Friday
11AM, 1PM, 3PM
$15/pp
Enjoy a complimentary selection of local craft beer
after your tour!
Email tours@turksheadbeer.com
Call 649.941.3637 x 1005 to book
www.turksheadbrewery.tc
52 Universal Dr.
Providenciales, TCI
TOUR TASTE SHOP
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 69

faces and places
TCI Ministry of Tourism Big Bin Competition
It was a collaboration of like minds with a desire to curb littering, whilst giving our youth a
chance to show their creative awareness of the environment. Johanne Karam from Karam &
Missick Attorneys at Law on Providenciales wanted to start a garbage bin project. With TC
Crystal Pure’s donation of rum drums, which she carefully stored, she was on her way. Then at
a Tourism Environment Awareness Month (TEAM) meeting (a committee that celebrates each
November with the theme, “Tourism is Key . . . It Starts with ME”), it was noted that such a
project was needed, but how to get hold of enough drums? Mrs. Karam’s large collection was
recalled, requested and generously donated.
The TCI Tourist Board with the support of the Department of Environment & Coastal
Resources and the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund distributed the bins to all TCI schools—public and
private, primary and high school. When Karam & Missick also offered to come up with $3,000 in
prize money for the top three creative entries in each school category, the Ministry of Tourism’s
Schools’ Big Bin Competition was just about ready to roll out. Lorell Ewing, owner of Perfect2Us
Arts decorated a drum to provide students with inspiration for their entries. The Turks & Caicos
Hotel & Tourism Association (TCHTA) got involved by showcasing eight of the completed bins
at their annual TCI Shine Clean-up on December 3, 2016.
The project would see every school on every island decorate a large plastic drum to be used
as a garbage bin, with set artistic criteria upon which to be judged. “This is a wonderful initiative
and one that should continue as we promote cleanliness for a healthier environment, not only
for our tourism industry but for generations to come,” said Hon. Porsha Stubbs-Smith, former
Minister of Tourism, Environment, Gaming, Heritage and Culture.
At the final prize-giving on May 12, 2017 a delighted Blythe Clare, TCI Tourist Board Training
Manager, commented that the schoolchildren did an excellent job in producing beautiful drums.
Director of Tourism Ramon Andrews said that every bin was a winner, adding, “Let’s do this
bin project every year, and look out for a nationwide clean-up.” TCI Director of Education Edgar
Howell reminded students that “Cleanliness starts at one’s home base.”
The bins were quickly put to good use. Soon after the prize-giving, three bins were on
display at the 47th Annual Meeting of the Board of Governors of the Caribbean Development
Bank on May 24–25, 2017. The 500 delegates clearly saw that TCI’s desire is to be “Beautiful by
Nature, Clean by Choice.” Other bins were strategically placed throughout local communities
and a bin was sent for the 50th Annual Big South Regatta on May 25–28, 2017.
The creativity that students displayed on the bins came from their great awareness of the
TCI’s natural beauty. Clement Howell High School’s slogan was “Tourism is key, keep Provo litter
free.” The British West Indies Collegiate’s catchy slogan was “Don’t be mean, keep beaches clean,”
while TCI Middle School had a simple request:
“Please keep our beach beautiful by nature.” For
the younger students, The International School’s
slogan was “Keep our beaches clean.” Champions
for Christ School stated that “A clean base is a
healthy place,” while Mills Institute had a call to
action: “Keep your surroundings neat, and give
the bin a treat.” These six winning bins are shown
at right.
Story & Photos By Claire Parrish
70 www.timespub.tc

Clement Howell High School British West Indies Collegiate TCI Middle School
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International School of TCI Champions for Christ Int’l. School Mills Institute
International G06%&0.6/20.B!"5-22B!23!F?G School of TCI Champions ?-.$9/20,!32&!?-&/,6!G06RBE!"5-22B for Christ Int’l. School Mills C/BB,!G0,6/6#6%
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Bin Competition Results
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sharing of education and excitement was the spirit of the day at the Gustarvus Lightbourne Sports Centre on May
12, 6280!A&22&.6/20!8/6-!F?!?&:,6.B!
2017. The results of the TCI Ministry of Tourism (in collaboration with TC Crystal Pure, Karam & Missick Attorneys
at A#&%D!I.&.$!J!C/,,/5K!+662&0%:,!.6!=.8D!F?LF+D!MN?OD!F?!O%%3!P#04!.04!6-%!F?G!M%9.&6$%06!23!N02%B28D!8/6-!6-%!,/7!8/00/01!>/0,!.6!B%36E!+B,2!9/56#&%4!
speakers Blythe Clare, with members of Clement Howell High School, and Director of Tourism Ramon Andrews.
Director 20!6-%!2992,/6%!9.1%!.&%!,9%.K%&,!SB:6-%!?B.&%D!8/6-!$%$>%&,!23!?B%$%06!L28%BB!L/1-!"5-22BD!.04!M/&%562&!23!
of Education Edgar Howell and Junior Minister of Tourism Kayanna Gibson were also an important part of
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& Photos By Claire Parrish
Times & of (& the * & Islands , / !! Summer ! 2017 !
71

about the Islands
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps of the Turks & Caicos Islands, the
Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout the Islands. Visit www.waveylinepublishing.com.
Where we are
The Turks & Caicos Islands lie some 575 miles southeast
of Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —
with the Bahamas about 30 miles to the northwest and
the Dominican Republic some 100 miles to the southeast.
The country consists of two island groups separated
by the 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To the west are
the Caicos Islands: West Caicos, Providenciales, North
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To
the east are the Turks Islands: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles of land
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s
population is approximately 32,000.
Getting here
There are international airports on Grand Turk, North
Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic
airports on all of the islands except East Caicos.
At this time, all of the major international carriers
arrive and depart from Providenciales International
Airport. American Airlines flies three times daily from
Miami, daily from Charlotte, and from Boston, Dallas,
New York/JFK on Saturday and from Philadelphia on
Saturday and Sunday. JetBlue Airways offers daily service
from Fort Lauderdale, daily flights from New York/JFK
and flights from Boston on Saturday and Sunday. Delta
Airlines flies from Atlanta and New York/JFK daily. United
Airlines flies from Newark daily, from Washington DC on
Saturday, and from Chicago Saturday and Sunday. West
Jet travels from Toronto on Monday, Wednesday, Friday
72 www.timespub.tc

and Saturday. Air Canada offer daily flights from Toronto
(except Tuesday) and flies from Montreal on Friday and
Sunday. British Airways travels on Thursday and Sunday
from London/Gatwick via Antigua.
Bahamasair flies to Nassau on Thursday and Sunday;
Inter-caribbean Airways travels daily except Thursday.
Inter-caribbean Airways and Caicos Express travel to Haiti
daily, while Inter-caribbean Airways flies to the Dominican
Republic daily (except Wednesday); to Jamaica daily,
and to Puerto Rico on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and
Sunday. Inter-caribbean Airways also travels to Santiago,
Cuba on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. (Schedules are
current as of May 2017 and subject to change.)
Inter-island service is provided by Inter-caribbean
Airways, Caicos Express Airways, and Global Airways. Sea
and air freight services operate from Florida.
Language
English.
Time zone
Atlantic Standard Time (AST) observed year-round.
Currency
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.
dollars are widely accepted and other currency can be
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.
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shopping and restaurants
$2450-$3850 weekly; flexible dates
Climate
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The
hottest months are September and October, when the
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,
the consistent easterly trade winds temper the heat and
keep life comfortable.
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing
and a sunhat and use waterproof sunscreen when out
in the tropical sun.
Entry requirements
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.
Customs formalities
Visitors may bring in duty free for their own use one carton
of cigarettes or cigars, one bottle of liquor or wine,
and some perfume. The importation of all firearms includ-
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 73

ing those charged with compressed air without prior
approval in writing from the Commissioner of Police is
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled
drugs, and pornography are also illegal.
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth of
merchandise per person duty free. A duty of 10% to
60% is charged on most imported goods along with a
7% customs processing fee and forms a major source of
government revenue.
Transportation
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting
vehicles. A government tax of 12% is levied on all
rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on the
left-hand side of the road, with traffic flow controlled by
round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and
drive! Taxis are abundant throughout the Islands and
many resorts offer shuttle service between popular visitor
areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and bicycle rentals are
also available.
Telecommunications
FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband
Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,
including pre and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts
and some stores and restaurants offer wireless Internet
connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with
a full suite of LTE 4G service. FLOW is the local carrier
for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and
Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets
and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can
arrange international roaming.
Electricity
120/240 volts, 60 Hz, suitable for all U.S. appliances.
Departure tax
US $20 for all persons two years and older, payable in
cash or traveller’s cheques. It is typically built into the
cost of your ticket.
Courier service
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with offices on
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is
limited to incoming delivery.
Postal service
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is
located downtown in Butterfield Square. In Grand Turk,
the Post Office is on Front Street, with the Philatelic
Bureau on Church Folly. The Islands are known for their
varied and colorful stamp issues.
Media
Multi-channel satellite television is received from the U.S.
and Canada and transmitted via cable or over the air.
Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island
EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television offers 75 digitally
transmitted television stations, along with local news
and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number of
local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.
Medical services
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.
Both hospitals offer a full range of services including:
24/7 emergency room, operating theaters, diagnostic
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,
physiotherapy, and dentistry.
In addition, several general practitioners operate in
the country, and there is a recompression chamber, along
with a number of private pharmacies.
Immigration
A resident’s permit is required to live in the Islands. A
work permit and business license are also required to
work and/or establish a business. These are generally
granted to those offering skills, experience, and qualifications
not widely available on the Islands. Priority is given
to enterprises that will provide employment and training
for T&C Islanders.
Government/Legal system
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed
Governor, HE Dr. John Freeman. He presides over an executive
council formed by the elected local government.
Lady Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson is the country’s first
woman premier, leading a majority People’s Democratic
Movement (PDM) House of Assembly.
The legal system is based upon English Common
Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief
Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges of the Court
of Appeal visit the Islands twice a year and there is a final
Right of Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.
Taxes
There are currently no direct taxes on either income
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no
74 www.timespub.tc

exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs
duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,
restaurants, vehicle rentals, other services and gasoline,
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.
Economy
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on the export of
salt. Currently, tourism, the offshore finance industry,
and fishing generate the most private sector income.
The Islands’ main exports are lobster and conch, with
the world’s first commercial conch farm operating on
Providenciales. Practically all consumer goods and foodstuffs
are imported.
The Turks & Caicos Islands are recognised as an
important offshore financial centre, offering services
such as company formation, offshore insurance, banking,
trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.
The Financial Services Commission regulates the industry
and spearheads the development of offshore legislation.
People
Citizens of the Turks & Caicos Islands are termed
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants of African
slaves who were brought to the Islands to work on the
salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large
expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,
Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,
Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.
Churches
Churches are the center of community life and there
are many faiths represented in the Islands, including:
Adventist, Anglican, Assembly of God, Baha’i,
Baptist, Catholic, Church of God of Prophecy, Episcopal,
Faith Tabernacle Church of God, Jehovah’s Witnesses,
Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.
Pets
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary
health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test
results to be submitted at the port of entry to obtain
clearance from the TCI Department of Agriculture, Animal
Health Services.
National symbols
The National Bird is the Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).
The National Plant is Island heather (Limonium
bahamense) found nowhere else in the world. The
National Tree is the Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 75

ahamensis). The National Costume consists of white cotton
dresses tied at the waist for women and simple shirts
and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing
the various islands are displayed on the sleeves
and bases. The National Song is “This Land of Ours,” by
the late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)
with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.
Going green
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently offers recycling services
through weekly collection of recyclable aluminum,
glass, and plastic. The TCI Environmental Club is spearheading
a campaign to eliminate single-use plastic bags.
Do your part by using a cloth bag whenever possible.
Keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature” by not littering!
Recreation
Sporting activities are centered around the water. Visitors
can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling,
scuba diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding,
and beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life,
and excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving
destination. Tennis and golf—there is an eighteen hole
championship course on Providenciales—are also popular.
The Islands are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in
thirty-three national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries,
and areas of historical interest. The National Trust
provides trail guides to several hiking trails, as well as
guided tours of major historical sites. There is an excellent
national museum on Grand Turk, with an auxillary
branch on Providenciales. A scheduled ferry and a selection
of tour operators make it easy to take day trips to the
outer islands.
Other land-based activities include bicycling, horseback
riding, and football (soccer). Personal trainers are
available to motivate you, working out of several fitness
centres. You will also find a variety of spa and body treatment
services.
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music
at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There are
two casinos on Providenciales, along with many electronic
gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!
Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,
sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,
including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets
sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, leather goods,
crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing
and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a
76 www.timespub.tc

where to stay
Grand Turk
range of daily rates
US$ (subject to change)
number of units
major credit cards
restaurant
bar
air conditioning
phone in unit
television in unit
kitchen in unit
laundry service
pool
on the beach
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The Arches of Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • •
Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 946 2135 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 16 • • • • • • • •
Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 1698 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • •
Grand Turk Inn – Tel 649 946 2827 • Web www.grandturkinn.com 250–300 5 • • • • • • •
Island House – Tel 649 946 1519/232 5514 • Web www.islandhouse.tc 110–185 8 • • • • • • •
Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • •
Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • •
Pelican House – Tel 649 246 6797 • Web www.pelicanhousegrandturk.com 110-130 3 • • • • •
Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • •
Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • •
Middle Caicos
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Blue Horizon Resort – Tel 649 946 6141 • Web bhresort.com 265–400 7 • • • • • • • • •
North Caicos
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Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • •
Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • •
Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • •
Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • •
Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • •
JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • •
Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • •
Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112/877 774 5486 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–165 14 • • • • • • • •
Pine Cay
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The Meridian Club Turks & Caicos - Tel 649 946 7758/866 746 3229 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • • •
Parrot Cay
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Parrot Cay Resort & Spa - Tel 866 388 0036/904 886 97768 • Web www.parrotcay.com 550–2850 65 • • • • • • • • • •
Providenciales
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Airport Inn - Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 18 • • • • • • •
The Alexandra Resort & Spa - Tel 800 704 9424/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • •
The Atrium Resort - Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.theatriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • •
Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.amanresorts.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • •
Aquamarine Beach Houses - Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • •
Beaches Resort & Spa - Tel 800-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 758 • • • • • • • • •
Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • •
Blue Haven Resort & Marina - Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • •
Caribbean Paradise Inn - Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.paradise.tc 162–225 17 • • • • • • • •
Club Med Turkoise - Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • •
Coral Gardens on Grace Bay - Tel 877 746 7800 • Web www.coralgardensongracebay.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • •
Gansevoort Turks + Caicos – Tel 877 774 3253/649 941 7555 • Web www.gansevoorttc.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • •
Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5757 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 75 • • • • • • • • • •
Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • •
Harbour Club Villas - Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • •
Kokomo Botanical Gardens - Tel 649 941 3121• Web www.kokomobotanicalresort.com 169–299 16 • • • • •
Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.levele.tc 303–630 22 • • • • • • • •
La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 9618 • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • •
The Lodgings – Tel 649 941 8107/242 6722 • Web www.hotelturksandcaicos.com 175–255 15 • • • • • •
Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • •
Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • •
Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5461 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com 180–690 191 • • • • • • • • • •
The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666 • Web thepalmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • •
Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • •
Point Grace - Tel 888 682 3705/649 946 5096 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • •
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 77

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where to stay
range of daily rates
US$ (subject to change)
number of units
major credit cards
restaurant
bar
air conditioning
phone in unit
television in unit
kitchen in unit
laundry service
pool
on the beach
Providenciales (continued)
Ports of Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.portsofcallresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • •
Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • •
Reef Residence at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • •
The Regent Grand – Tel 877 537 3314/649 941 7770 • Web www.TheRegentGrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • •
Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 800 332 4203/649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com 180–695 92 • • • • • • • • • •
The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.thesandsresort.com 175–675 116 • • • • • • • • • •
Seven Stars Resort & Spa – Tel 866 570 7777/649 941 7777 – Web www.SevenStarsResort.com 365–2400 165 • • • • • • • • • •
The Shore Club on Long Bay – Tel 888 808 9488/649 339 8000 – www.the shoreclubtc.com 465–4650 148 • • • • • • • • • •
Sibonné Beach Hotel – Tel 888 570 2861/649 946 5547 • Web www.Sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • •
The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 339 5900/877 887 5722 • Web www.TheSomerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • •
Turtle Cove Inn – Tel 800 887 0477/649 946 4203 • Web www.turtlecoveinn.com 85–180 30 • • • • • • • •
The Tuscany – Tel 866 359 6466/649 941 4667 • Web www.thetuscanyresort.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • •
The Venetian – Tel 866 242 0969/649 941 3512 • Web www.thevenetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • •
Villa del Mar – Tel 877 238 4058/649 941 5160 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • •
Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitci.com See Web/AE 6 • • • • • • •
Villa Renaissance - Tel 649 941 5300/877 285 8764 • Web www.villarenaissance.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • •
The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255 • Web www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • •
West Bay Club – Tel 866 607 4156/649 946 8550 • Web www.TheWestBayClub.com 235–1163 46 • • • • • • • • • •
The Windsong – Tel 649 941 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • •
The Yacht Club – Tel 649 946 4656 • Web www.yachtclubtci.com 250–350 52 • • • • • • •
Salt Cay
Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • •
Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • •
Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc 165–175 4 • • • • • • •
Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • •
Trade Winds Lodge – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • •
Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • •
The Villas of Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villasofsaltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • •
South Caicos
East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com 198–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • •
Sailrock South Caicos – Tel 800 929 7197 • Web sailrockresortcom 600–800 6 • • • • • • • • •
South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219
Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • •
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Hotel & Tourism Association Member
Green Globe Certified
Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge
78 www.timespub.tc

dining out – providenciales
Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet
cuisine with menu changing daily. Open 6 to 10 PM.
Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA.
Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out,
catering. Open daily 7 AM to 5 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM.
Asú on the Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 941-8888. Casual
Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for 7:30
AM to 10:30 PM. Service indoors, poolside, and at beach.
Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044.
Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open
for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from
6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.
Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront
dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily
7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events.
Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000.
All-inclusive resort. A variety of restaurants and bars on premises.
Non-guests can purchase a pass.
Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:
946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Indoor or terrace seating above
tropical garden. Open daily from 5:30 PM. Closed Sunday. Lunch
and pizza in the garden. Private catering available.
Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide
selection of burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like
setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.
Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. Fresh
local conch and seafood by the beach. Rum, buckets of beer,
live local bands. Open daily from 11 AM to late.
Cabana Beach Bar & Grill — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880.
Casual island fare, burgers, salads, snacks. Open daily from
7 AM to 10 PM. Tropical cocktails with a view of the sea.
Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Authentic French boulangerie.
Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche,
pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday.
Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278.
Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining
on the deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday.
Carambola Grill & Lounge — Airport Inn Plaza. Tel: 946-
8122. Generous portions of local and international fare at
moderate prices in a casual atmosphere. Catering available.
The Caravel Restaurant — Grace Bay Court. Tel: 941-5330.
Cozy restaurant offering island food with flair; famous for fish
tacos. Full bar. Open daily 5 to 10 PM, closed Thursday.
Chicken Chicken — Times Square, downtown Provo. Fast food,
fried chicken, native fare.
Chinson’s Grill Shack — Leeward Highway. Tel: 941-3533.
The Islands’ best jerk and barbecue, Jamaican pastries. Open
daily 8 AM to 10 PM; Friday to Midnight.
Chopsticks — Neptune Court. Tel: 333-4040. Fusion of Asian
cuisines. Take-away, delivery, on-site dining. Open daily 11:30
AM to 3 PM; 5:30 to 10:00 PM.
Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive
resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in the evenings.
Non-guests can purchase a daily pass.
Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental
Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy of palms.
Serving dinner from 5:30 PM. Closed Monday. Look for the new
Cocovan airstream lounge with garden seating or take-away.
Coconut Grove Restaurant & Lounge — Olympic Plaza,
Downtown. Tel: 247-5610. Casual native fare for residents and
tourists. Cracked conch, conch fritters, fried fish. Pool and game
room. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.
Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5186.
Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical
garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10
PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended.
Crackpot Kitchen — Ports of Call. Tel: 2313336. Experience
the best of authentic Turks & Caicos and Caribbean cuisines
with local celebrity Chef Nik. Open daily 5 to 10 PM except
Thursday; Happy Hour 5 to 7 PM.
Crust Bakery & Café — Graceway IGA. Tel: 941-8724.
Breakfast sandwiches, specialty coffees, soups, salads, gourmet
sandwiches and desserts. Open Monday to Saturday, 7 AM to
8:30 PM. Covered patio dining or take-out. Catering available.
Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877.
Island-fresh seafood from the ocean to your plate. Covered
beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.
Danny Buoy’s — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921. Traditional
American pub fare; imported draught beers. Open for lunch and
dinner daily from 11 AM. Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs
for sporting events. Karaoke.
The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining
and cocktails by the water’s edge. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM.
Live music Friday nights.
Drift — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550. Open-air beachfront dining.
Creatively used local ingredients. Full bar. Open daily.
Dune — Windsong Resort. Tel: 333-7700. Private beachfront
dining with limited availability. Fresh fare prepared to perfection.
Open daily.
Element — LeVele Plaza. Tel: 348-6424. Contemporary, creative
cuisine in an elegant setting. Open for dinner Friday to
Wednesday 6:30 to 10:30 PM.
Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833. Dine
overlooking the “greens.” Open for breakfast and lunch from 7
AM to 4 PM daily; Friday, Saturday and Sunday open until 8 PM.
Great Sunday brunch 9 AM to 3 PM.
Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.
Drinks at the Ice Bar, dessert by the fire pits. South Americanmeets-Caribbean
flavors and spices. Open daily 5:30 to 9:30
PM. Closed Wednesday.
Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745.
Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and
cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday.
Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3167. Authentic native
cuisine, from seafood to souse. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet
on Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.
Carry-out available.
Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Authentic
Indian cuisine, tandoori charcoal-oven specialties. Open daily
11:30 AM to 3 PM, 5:30 to 10 PM. Dine-in, take-out or delivery.
Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports of Call &
Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes,
smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix
candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.
Gilley’s Sky Lounge & Bar — At the airport. Tel: 946-4472.
Burgers, sandwiches, local food. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM.
Times of the Islands Summer 2017 79

Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096.
Elegant, gourmet Caribbean cuisine showcasing regional foods.
Extensive wine list. Gazebo seating under the stars or indoor
dining in a romantic gingerbread cottage. Serving dinner from
6 to 10 PM nightly. Reservations required. Native cuisine night
on Tuesday with live music.
Grill Rouge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Al fresco bistro.
Diverse menu. Fun cocktails. Open daily for lunch Noon to 3 PM,
dinner to 9 PM.
Hemingways on the Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel:
941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish,
pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by the pool.
Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.
Hole in the Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old
Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Authentic Jamaican/Island cuisine
where the locals go. Full bar. A/C dining or outdoors on the
deck. Open daily 7 AM to 9 PM. Pick-up/delivery available.
Infiniti Restaurant & Raw Bar — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-
5050. Elegant beachfront dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet
Euro/Caribbean cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge.
Reservations required.
Island Boochery — Le Petite Plaza. Tel: 348-7027. Vegan
lifestyle kitchen, offering fresh, organic, raw, vegan, gourmet.
Open daily 10 AM to 6 PM; Saturday 10 AM to 2 PM.
Island Conch Bar & Grill — Bight Cultural Market. Tel: 946-
8389. Caribbean and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM.
Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051.
21 flavors of ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards
and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM.
The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet
café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and coffee
delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily.
Jimmy’s Dive Bar — Ports of Call. Tel: 946-5282. The place for
steaks, BBQ, booze and breakfast. Open daily, 7 AM to 11 PM,
(Thursday to Saturday to Midnight); open Sunday at 8 AM.
Kalooki’s Beach Restaurant & Bar — Blue Hills. Tel:
941-8388. Caribbean-infused dishes in an oasis-like setting
overlooking the sea. Open Monday to Saturday, 11 AM to 10 PM;
Sunday 11 AM to 7 PM. Live music every Friday!
KItchen 218 — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800.
Caribbean cuisine with hints of French and Asian fusion and the
chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.
The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from
Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner
under the stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily except Tuesday
5:30 PM to . . .
Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306.
Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar.
Terrace, gazebo and inside dining overlooking Chalk Sound.
Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Take-out available; private parties.
Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A
taste of Paris. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines,
tapas, dinner specials, wine, cheese, dessert, coffees. Open
daily 11 AM. Closed Sunday.
Le Comptoir Francais — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234.
French deli, bakery, wine shop. Open daily.
Lemon 2 Go Coffee — Ventura House. Tel: 941-4069.
Gourmet coffeehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies, croissants,
yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to 7 PM,
Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM.
The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip
lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails,
world music and the finest sunset location in Providenciales.
Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Authentic Italian
“comfort food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out readymade
gourmet meals. Open daily 11 AM to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM.
Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel:
941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore
views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. Wine
bar opens at 4 PM.
Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Fresh local flavors
and seafood, homemade desserts. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM.
Set price dinner on weekdays. Waterside deck, indoor or patio
dining. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina.
Market Café — Blue Haven Resort. Tel: 946-9900. Gourmet
coffees, teas, frozen drinks; fresh breads and pastries; grab ‘n’
go salads, sandwiches, smoothies. Open daily 7 AM to 8 PM.
Melt Ice Cream Parlour — Regent Village. Tel: 432-1234.
Carefully crafted selection of sumptous and inspired sundaes,
with coffee, champagne and cocktails for the grown-ups! Open
Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 10 PM.
Mis Amigos Cocina Mexicana — Central Square. Tel: 946-
4229. A variety of traditional Mexican fare, including salads and
the best margaritas in town. Open daily.
Mother’s Pizza — Downtown Times Square. Tel: 941-4142.
Best pizza in the Turks & Caicos, available by the slice or the
island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on
Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday.
Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Airport Road. Tel: 242-6780.
Serving fresh local seafood straight from the sea. Open daily 10
AM to 10:30 PM, Sunday 3 to 11 PM.
Opus Wine • Bar • Grill — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-
5885. International menu with Caribbean flair. Fresh seafood.
Serving dinner nightly 6 to 10:30 PM. Indoor/outdoor dining.
Conference facility, events, catering.
Parallel23 — The Palms. Tel: 946-8666. Pan-tropical cuisine in
a setting of casual elegance. Boutique wine list. Al fresco or private
dining room available. Open daily 6 to 10:30 PM.
The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue
Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Authentic Jamaican patties and loaves. 18
flavors of Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM.
Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Brad offers a
global palate, interpreted locally. Seafood raw bar. Open daily
for breakfast, lunch, dinner; Sunday Prime Rib special.
Pelican Bay Restaurant & Bar — Royal West Indies Resort.
Tel: 941-2365/431-9101. Poolside restaurant and bar with
Caribbean, French and Asian fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily
from 7:30 AM to 10 PM. Special events each week.
Pepper Town Café — Digicel Cinema, #4. Tel: 246-9237.
Native and Caribbean Dishes. Open daily except Sunday 11:30
AM to 7 PM. Island breakfast on Saturday at 7 AM.
Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941-
8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily
11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery.
Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med.
Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on the beach.
Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays
and Beach BBQ Saturdays.
Sailing Paradise — Blue Hills. Tel: 344-1914. Casual beachfront
restaurant and bar. Caribbean fare. Open daily 7 AM to 11
PM. Sunday brunch and beach party, daily happy hour.
Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.
80 www.timespub.tc

Casual dining with outdoor seating overlooking the marina.
Sandwiches, burgers and salads, classic bar favorites with local
flair. Open daily from 11:30 AM to 9:30 PM.
Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contemporary
cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Monday to Saturday,
5:30 to 9:30 PM.
72ºWest — The Palms Resort. Tel: 946-8666. Beachside dining
with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired menu. Serving lunch
daily; dinner seasonally.
Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel:
941-5090. Varied menu; casual dining. Sports bar/slots. Open
daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.
Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic
coffees, teas, sandwiches, salads, soup, pastries, gelato, sorbetto,
smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM to 7 PM.
Simone’s Bar & Grill — La Vista Azul. Tel: 331-3031. Serving
fresh seafood and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM;
weekends 7 AM to 11 PM. Popular bar!
Solana! Restaurant — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254.
Oceanfront dining from sushi to burgers. Teppanyaki and Sushi
Bar, engage with the chefs. Open daily 7:30 AM to 10 PM.
Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel:
941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on the beach.
Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily.
Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Modern
Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6
to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ.
Sui-Ren — The Shore Club. Tel: 339-8000. Inspired flavors of
Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine with fresh seafood and organic
produce in a unique setting. Open daily.
Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Authentic
Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for
lunch and dinner daily.
Three Brothers Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown.
Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet
dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM.
Three Queens Bar & Restaurant — Wheeland. Tel: 243-
5343. Oldest bar on Provo, serving Jamaican and Native dishes.
Serving lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday.
Tiki Hut Island Eatery — Dockside at Turtle Cove Inn. Tel:
941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood, Black
Angus beef, pasta, pizzas, fresh fish. Open daily 11 AM to 10
PM. Breakfast on weekends.
Turkberry Frozen Yogurt — The Saltmills. Tel: 431-2233.
Frozen yogurt in a variety of flavors, with a large selection of
toppings. Open 11 AM to 11 PM daily.
Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431-
9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros,
kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner.
Via Veneto — Ports of Call. Tel: 941-2372. Authentic Italian
dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Open from 5:30 PM to
late. Closed Thursday. Saturday is Pizza Night!
The Vix Bar & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144. Highend,
island-inspired world cuisine, fine wines. Open daily for
breakfast, lunch and dinner. Available for meetings.
Yoshi’s Sushi & Grill — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374/431-
0012. Sushi bar menu plus Japanese cuisine. Open daily Noon
to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Dine indoors or out. Carry
out available.
Zest! — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Lunch and
dinner beachfront. Taste of the Caribbean and Americas. Open
daily Noon to 5 PM; 6 to 9 PM. Fisherman’s night Wednesday. a
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