British Travel Journal | Spring 2019

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

SPRING 2019 | ISSUE 01 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

CITY | COAST | COUNTRY 

IN THE STARS 

GASTRONOMIC DELIGHTS AND A 

CONSTELLATION OF MICHELIN STARS 

JUST WAITING TO BE EXPLORED 

DREAM ESCAPE 

DISCOVER THE REMARKABLE ISLANDS 

AND BREATHTAKING LANDSCAPES 

OF ORKNEY AND THE OUTER HEBRIDES 

£5.00 

EVENTS ■ IDYLLIC DESTINATIONS ■ MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS ■ LUXURY HOTELS ■ NEW EXPERIENCES

WHICH IS THE MOST ICONIC 

HOTEL IN THE UK? 

#Siblingrivalry 

CHEWTON GLEN, HAMPSHIRE 

CLIVEDEN HOUSE, BERKSHIRE 

THE LYGON ARMS, COTSWOLDS 

11 CADOGAN GARDENS, LONDON 

ICONICLUXURYHOTELS.COM

EDITOR’S LETTER 

C O N T R I B U T I O N S 

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

EDITORS 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

EXPERT CONTRIBUTORS 

SHOPPING & LIFESTYLE Emma Johnson 

ARTS & CULTURE Melanie Abrams 

FOOD & DRINK Chantal Borciani 

TRAVEL & HISTORY Robin Glover 

EXPERIENCE & ADVENTURE Adrian Mourby 

SPECIAL THANKS TO 

Robert Nightingale 

Dream Escape 

David Brown Automotive 

FRONT COVER IMAGE 

The Lodge on Loch Goil, Scotland 

PUBLISHED BY 

CONTISTA MEDIA 

Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, 

Southampton, SO31 9HP 

MAIN SWITCHBOARD 01489 660680 

Ücontistamedia.co.uk 

KEEP IN TOUCH 

BritishTravelJournal 

BTravelJournal 

WELCOME 


WELCOME TO THE FIRST 

edition of British Travel 

Journal, which we hope will 

become your indispensable 

‘go-to’ for all your upcoming 

travel plans - inspiring your 

year ahead, with a dreamy 

selection of seasonal holiday 

ideas, unique experiences, and 

wondrous days out. 

And while we can’t always guarantee the sunshine, I’m sure you’ll 

agree, that for a relatively small island, Britain packs a pretty good 

punch! Whether it is the city, country, or coast you enjoy best, there is 

simply so much within our beautiful and varied landscape to explore. 

Join in the fun with annual events, culture, history, shopping - not to 

mention enjoying some of the world’s finest Michelin star restaurants, 

hotels and spas. 

As Editor here at British Travel Journal my bucket list is forever 

growing, I did however manage to tick one off this season, with a 

rock-climbing adventure to Jersey, which I hope you enjoy reading 

(p48). I’ve discovered unique experiences I didn’t even know were 

possible, such as jumping into a hot tub as you sail down the River 

Thames (p26), and if, like me, you are an avid foodie, then you will 

love our holy trinity of gastronomy ‘In The Stars’ (p72). 

From days out to great long journeys and one-off adventures, 

please remember while making your new discoveries to snap some 

photos along the way, as we would love you to enter our British 

Travel Journal Landscape Photography Competition - for your 

chance to win a night of London luxury in Mayfair (p14). 

So, whether you’re reading this from a far-flung airport lounge, a 

sumptious hotel suite, or with your feet up at home on the sofa, we urge 

you to stop dreaming and to start treating yourself. u 

PROUD TO BE IN PARTNERSHIP WITH 

Contista Media Ltd cannot accept responsibility for 

unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. 

While every care is taken prices and details are subject to 

change and Contista Media Ltd take no responsibility for 

omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish 

and edit any letters. All rights reserved. 

PICTURED ABOVE: 

JESSICA VISITS BATH, SOMERSET 

Jessica x 

Jessica Way, Editor-In-Chief 

Jessica@britishtraveljournal.com 

BritishTravelJournal.com 3

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26 

CONTENTS 


32 

36 

S T Y L E E D I T S 

12 

98 

11 

JOTTINGS 

11 

TRAVEL NEWS 

A look at what’s new with 

on-trend destinations, renovations, 

product launches and celebrations. 

14 

MOMENTS 

Annual Landscape Photography 

Competition - win a luxury overnight stay 

at JW Marriott Grosvenor House London. 

CULTURAL AGENDA 

17 Exhibitions, museums, galleries and 

shows hot this season. 

26 

10 UNIQUE EXPERIENCES 

Feel inspired with our seasonal 

choice, including an awe-inspiring flying 

lesson to a six course gourmet dining 

experience on a luxury double-decker bus! 

ITINERARIES 

32 

IDYLLIC ISLANDS 

Discover this dreamy escape with 

breathtaking landscapes of Orkney and 

the Outer and Inner Hebrides. 

INTERVIEW WITH ROBERT 

36 NIGHTINGALE 

Founder of adventure accessories brand 

Malle London tells us about his five day 

Great Malle Rally journey, 1250 beautiful 

miles filled with stunning landscapes. 

IN FOCUS: NEWMARKET 

44 Go behind the scenes at the home 

of British horseracing. 

48 HOURS IN JERSEY 

48 Be invigorated with a revitalising 

adventure in the Channel Islands.à 


E D I T O R B U Y S 

Anna Maria Restoring 

Anti-oxidant Body Oil, £63 

clivedenhouse.co.uk 

Ormer Pendant, £270 

catherinebest.com 

80 

LIFESTYLE 

54 GINAISSANCE 

We take a look at the irresistible 

rise of gin, artisan brands, and gin 

distilleries offering memorable tour and 

tasting experiences. 

MINI REMASTERED 

58 Behind the scenes at David Brown 

Automotive, celebrating the iconic Mini in 

its 60th year of production. 

63 CRAFTED 

We meet Roger W Smith, Bronze 

Medallist of the British Horological 

Institute, recently honoured with an OBE, 

and the subject of a Netflix film, to discuss 

the skill of British watchmaking. 

67 INVESTOR 

Investing in books can be lucrative 

but it is not quite as simple as plain old 

buying and selling. 

GIFT TO ALL SUBSCRIBERS! 

Subscribe to British Travel Journal 

and read your next issue while 

enjoying an English Breakfast, Earl 

Grey, Jasmine Blossom or Moroccan 

Mint loose-blend tea, 

courtesy of Newby Teas! 

britishtraveljournal.com 

/subscribe 

CONNOISSEUR 

72 

IN THE STARS 

The snug villages and bottle-green 

fells of Lancashire, Cumbria and Yorkshire 

have created a holy trinity of gastronomy 

and a veritable constellation of Michelin 

stars just waiting to be explored. 

79 VICTUALS 

Discover what’s new in the scene 

of British hospitality, Michelin-star chefs, 

restaurants, hotels and spas. 

ESCAPE TO NATURE 

80 Stay in a beautiful log cabin 

or treehouse, from remote, windswept 

locations to cosy clusters of cabins with 

all the latest technology and mod cons. 

FARMER, BUTCHER, CHEF 

82 Discover a countryside gem in West 

Sussex, and get the taste for a perfect 

Sunday roast. 

MIDDLETHORPE HALL 

87 With superb surroundings and 

closeness to central York, Middlethorpe Hall 

offers the best of rural and city escapes. 

DAY TRIPPER 

90 

BLETCHLEY PARK 

In a sleepy Buckinghamshire town 

a window opens on this history-changing, 

high-security WW2 operation centre, kept 

secret for decades. 

MIGHTY HIKES 

94 Take part in a one-day hiking 

marathon and experience some of the 

UK's most breathtaking scenery, while 

raising much-needed funds for Macmillan. 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

98 Latest books, travel gadgets and 

our first British travel inspired crossword. 

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

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Park Welcome to JW Marriott Grosvenor House London. Ideally situated on Park Lane and overlooking 

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JOTTINGS 

Travel News p11 | Moments p14 | Cultural Agenda p17 | 

Bright Lights, Big City! p24 | 10 of the Best Unique Experiences p26 

T R E N D I N G 

HECKFIELD PLACE 

This charming new hotel has evoked much 

interest, a lovingly restored Georgian family 

home, rewoven into 400 acres of secluded 

Hampshire landscape. heckfieldplace.com 

THE PAINTED HALL 

The Painted Hall at The Old Royal 

Naval College, Greenwich reopens to 

the public 23 March after a two-year 

conservation project. ornc.org 

à 

SINGING CABBIE 

Professional singer come black-cab driver, 

Aiden Kent, has followed his dreams, offering 

extraordinary performances while zipping 

past London’s sights! singingcabbie.com 


Tresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. 

Somewhere else altogether. 

FOR A GLIMPSE OF ISLAND 

LIFE, REQUEST YOUR 

COMPLIMENTARY TRESCO 

TIMES YEARBOOK: 

TRESCO.CO.UK/BTJ 

AWAR D-WINNING ACCOMMODATION | DINING | WELLBEING

TRAVEL NEWS 

W H A T ' S N E W 

Destinations | Renovations | Launches | Celebrations 

HISTORIC MILESTONE 

This year Leeds Castle, Kent, once home 

to King Edward I, and then subsequently to 

six of England's queens, is celebrating its 

900th anniversary. leeds-castle.com 

BE ONE OF THE FIRST TO THE UK'S ONLY VINEYARD HOTEL! 

A £4m project is under way at Denbies Wine Estate, Surrey (England’s largest single-estate 

vineyard, denbies.co.uk) to create the UK’s first ever vineyard hotel. The project will see 

the current bed and breakfast transformed into a 17-bedroom hotel with bar and orangery 

restaurant, set on the Denbies estate in the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty 

offering panoramic views across the vineyard and North Downs Way. The new hotel will have 

an Orangery-style garden restaurant, outdoor dining cabanas and even its own ‘Enomatic 

wine-dispensing machine’ – meaning guests can taste and purchase Denbies wine by the 

glass. Plus, there’ll be complimentary wine tasting tutorials. Well we're saying cheers to that! 

MAKE WAY FOR PRIORY BAY 

The Isle of Wight's most luxurious holiday 

destination, and 60 acre estate, is currently 

undergoing a magnificent restoration project 

to its secluded beach, swimming pool, hotel 

and restaurant. ariaresorts.co.uk/priory-bay 

LEICA SAFARI CAMERA 

FLOATING LUXURY 

Luxury floating hotel, Fingal, Edinburgh, is 

now open, with 23 beautifully styled cabins, an 

exquisite development which cost £3.5 million. 

Ü fingal.co.uk 

BUXTON'S REVIVAL 

Buxton Crescent's 80 bedroom 5* Hotel, 

Spa and Pump Room is due to open in 2019 

following a massive £46 million investment! 

Ü buxtoncrescent.com 

WE L O V E 

Limited Edition - £6,900 

Ü leicastore-uk.co.uk 


© ISABELLE PLASSCHAERT 

TRAVEL NEWS 

MORE HOTELS OPENING! 

B O U T I Q U E C I N E M A 

Cinema has been re-classified by the likes of TIVOLI - whose latest 

home-from-home studio to open in Bath boasts luxuriously wide 

sofas, excellent sight and sound, and your food and drink orders 

served to you at your seat prior to the feature. tivolicinemas.com 

/ ALAMY 

STOCK PHOTO 

YOU’VE HEARD ABOUT HECKFIELD PLACE, HAMPSHIRE, 

now travel a little further east and two more beautiful hotels are also 

opening (pictured above left-right) Monkey Island in Berkshire opens in 

February and The Langley in Buckinghamshire opens in June 2019 - watch 

this space! marriott.com / monkeyislandestate.co.uk 

STYLE EDITS 

what we love now 

Smalls’ natural merino 

wool base layers, perfect 

for international flights, 

they’re super soft and 

breathable, 

cool when 

it's warm and 

warm 

when it's cool! 

smallsmerino.co.uk 

F O R H I M 

COAL DROPS YARD AT KINGS CROSS 

If you are fed up of cookie cutter shopping, discover Coal Drops 

Yard where there’s a raft of indie shops and eateries. Design rules too 

including a Tom Dixon emporium and sweeping architecture by hotshot, 

Thomas Heatherwick. coaldropsyard.com 

T R A V E L A P P 

C65 Trident 

Automatic, £695, 

christopherward.co.uk 

B R I T I S H 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

Editor wears 

F O R H E R 

Centenary Bowling 

BagToscana, £1,025 

globe-trotter.com 

From London to Los Angeles, New York City to Singapore 

and hundreds of other cities, ONDA is a new travel app that 

enables you to discover interesting members' clubs, creative 

workspaces and health clubs from around the world. 

Ü ondalife.com 

Silhouette Accent 

Shades, from £200 

pretavoir.co.uk 

The Luxury Travel Wrap, £295 

willowcashmere.com 

Manhabis classic 

slippers, £69 

mahabis.com 


www.thewalesway.com 

This is Wales. 

The Wales Way is a family of three national routes 

that lead you along the coast, across castle country, 

and through our mountainous heartland. 

Our routes are crossed by loops and links so that you 

can head off-piste and create your own custom-built 

Welsh road trip. 

In Welsh we call it going igam ogam – ‘step-to-step’, 

or ‘zig-zagging’ – discovering your own secret places. 

Aren’t they always the best ones?

Moments 

Photography competitions, such as the National Trust's 

annual search for their Handbook front cover, and The 

Landscape Photographer of the Year exhibition, hosted by 

Network Rail, have helped to encourage a nation of budding 

photography enthusiasts - and here at British Travel Journal 

we are joining the fun with our own search for the most 

inspiring UK destinations 

“ I ’ D V I S I T E D T H I S L O C A T I O N 

M A N Y T I M E S I N D I F F E R I N G 

WEATHER CONDITIONS. 

FORSAKING THE WELL- 

KNOWN SHOW AT THE FALLS 

N E A R B Y, I H A D S E T O U T T O 

S H O O T S U N R I S E U P R I V E R 

AND SAW THIS UNUSUAL 

A N D D R A M A T I C F O R M A T I O N 

O F I C E A R O U N D T H E R O C K S ; 

R I G H T T H E N I K N E W I H A D 

M Y S P O T . T H E P R O B L E M W A S 

T H A T W H E N S H O O T I N G F R O M 

A B O V E , T H E I C E S P I K E S , 

A L T H O U G H V I S I B L E , W E R E 

G E T T I N G L O S T I N T H E S C E N E . 

T H E O N LY S O L U T I O N W A S 

T O G O V E R Y L O W ; T H E S A M E 

LEVEL AS THE ICE.” 

For further information about the 2019 

National Trust handbook competition 

please visit nationaltrust.org.uk 

PICTURE CREDITS: © PETE ROWBOTTOM/ANDREW JONES 

For further information about Landscape Photographer of the Year Awards visit take-a-view.co.uk 


COMPETITION 

Have you captured an amazing moment? 

B R I T I S H T R A V E L J O U R N A L | 2 0 1 9 

P H O T O G R A P H Y C O M P E T I T I O N 

Share your amazing landscape photography, 

email photos@britishtraveljournal.com or tag 

us on Instagram #britishtraveljournal 

One lucky reader will win... 

î A N O V E R N I G H T S T A Y F O R T W O I N L U X U R Y 

J W M A R R I O T T G R O S V E N O R H O U S E L O N D O N 

î A Y E A R ’ S S U P P L Y O F N E W B Y T E A S ! 

î A S U B S C R I P T I O N ( O R G I F T S U B S C R I P T I O N ) 

TO BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL 

Find out more: 

britishtraveljournal.com/competitions 

B R I T I S H 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

Competition! 


CULTURAL AGENDA 

H O T T H I S S E A S O N 

Exhibitions | Museums | Galleries | Shows 

Words | Melanie Abrams 

PICTURE CREDIT © JOHAN PERSSON 

Matthew Bourne updates Romeo and Juliet, see next page for more details... 


W E ' R E S E E I N G 

ARTS & THEATRE 

Man of La Mancha 

26 APRIL-8 JUNE 

It’s time to “dream the impossible dream” 

as musical, Man of La Mancha, hits the 

West End after 50 years. At the London 

Coliseum, this tale of legendary adventurer, 

Don Quixote stars Kelsey Grammer and 

Danielle de Niese - pictured right (courtesy 

of Decca). 

Ü eno.org 

William Shakespeare’s Richard III 

13-31 MARCH 

Medieval mischief comes to Alexandra 

Palace. Famed for murdering the princes 

in the Tower for his crown, the hunchback 

king is one of Shakespeare’s most dastardly 

figures (and there are a few). The £27 

million theatre is newly restored after 80 

years. Just don’t expect bright lights or 

gleaming metallic finishes. Instead, Ally 

Pally revels in its Victorian faded glory. 

Ü alexandrapalace.com 

PICTURE CREDIT © JOHAN PERSSON 

GLYNDEBOURNE FESTIVAL 

OPENS 18 MAY WITH A 

NEW PRODUCTION OF THE 

DAMNATION OF FAUST BY 

HECTOR BERLIOZ. ALONGSIDE 

THIS RARELY STAGED OPERA, 

THE SCHEDULE IS PACKED 

WITH FAVOURITES FROM 

ROSSINI’S BARBER OF SEVILLE 

TO MOZART’S MAGIC FLUTE. 

Ü GLYNDEBOURNE.COM 


Romeo and Juliet 

13-18 MAY 

He turned swans male and Cinderella into 

a wartime siren, now innovative British 

choreographer, Matthew Bourne updates 

Romeo and Juliet. Leicester’s Curve Theatre 

hosts the star crossed lovers’ world premiere 

in May before a nationwide tour 

Ü new-adventures.net/romeo-juliet 

PICTURE CREDITS: © BILL COOPER 

GREGORY PORTER HEADLINES 

THIS YEAR’S CHELTENHAM 

JAZZ FESTIVAL FROM 1-6 MAY. 

GRAB YOUR SPOT EARLY IN 

MONTPELLIER GARDENS FOR 

AVANT GARDE TRIO, THE BAD 

PLUS’S EVENT DEBUT. GET 

READY TO DANCE TO SERGIO 

MENDES’ BOSSA NOVA BEATS. 

Ü CHELTENHAMFESTIVALS. 

COM/JAZZ 


PICTURE CREDIT © MARSHA ARNOLD 

W E ' R E G O I N G 

FESTIVALS AND SHOWS 

The Hay Festival 

23 MAY-02 JUNE 

Rub shoulders with the literati at the Hay Festival on the Welsh 

River Wye. Hear your favourite author talk about their work or 

be surprised which celeb is reading an excerpt in Diaries Live! 

Ü hayfestival.com 

All Points East music festival 

24 MAY-02 JUNE 

Indie music is the sound at the All Points East music festival in 

London’s Victoria Park. 

This second year sees the eclectic line-up include the Chemical 

Brothers, Primal Scream and Bon Iver. 

Ü allpointseastfestival.com 

Chelsea Flower Show 

21-25 MAY 

The Royal Hospital Chelsea blooms as the Chelsea Flower Show 

kicks off the summer season. Take a whistle-stop tour around 

Britain’s best current and future gardens, discovering local 

specialities from Yorkshire vegetables to Manchester plants. 

Ü rhs.org.uk 

AUCTIONS 

Christie's, Books and Manuscripts 

05 JUNE 

Taking place in London this summer, one of the 

upcoming highlights is this striking map of the 

world surrounded by allegorical scenes of the four 

seasons, part of the Beyond The Horizon - The 

Mopelia Collection Of Fine Atlases And Travel Books 

collection. (Pictured left) 

Ü christies.com 

W E ’ R E L I S T E N I N G 

DIDO'S NEW ALBUM 

Still on My Mind 

We’ve missed Dido’s lyrical vocals. Now she’s back 

on 8 March with a first new album in six years, Still 

on My Mind, including the haunting Hurricanes. 

Ü didomusic.com 

Pictured left: 

VALK , Gerard 

(1652-1726) 

and Leonard 

VALK (1675- 

1746). Orbis 

Terrarum Nova et 

Accurata Tabula. 

Amsterdam: 

[c.1700]. 

Pictured top-left: 

Lady at The Hay 

Festival enjoys 

reading a book, 

Pictured above: 

Dido promoting 

her new album. 


8 February — 6 May 2019 

Open daily 

The Holburne Museum 

Great Pulteney Street 

Bath BA2 4DB 

‘an astonishing body of work’ 

★★★★★ The Guardian 

George Shaw, Ash Wednesday: 8.30 am, 2004–5 © George Shaw / 

Image courtesy Anthony Wilkinson Gallery, London / Photo: Peter White 

Tours & Experiences | Ancient Towns | Stunning Countryside | Hidden Gems | Gourmet Dining 

For bookings & more information 

www.aroundandaboutbath.com 

08000 747949 

Proudly partnered with 

AAAB_HPH_TravelJournal_AW.indd 1 15/02/2019 09:58

PICTURE CREDIT: © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM LONDON PICTURE CREDITS: ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST / © HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2018 

W E ' R E V I S I T I N G 

EXHIBITIONS & GALLERIES 

Hew Locke: Here’s the Thing 

8 MARCH-2 JUNE 

Caribbean and British cultures fuse at 

Birmingham’s Ikon Gallery as Hew Locke 

presents multi-media work. 

Ü ikon-gallery.org 

Painting Childhood and 

Childhood Now 

16 MARCH-16 JUNE 

Renaissance to royal children are the focus of 

two art shows at Compton Verney. 

Ü comptonverney.org 

THE SWINGING SIXTIES ARE BACK 

AS THE V&A SPOTLIGHTS THE ERA’S 

FASHION DESIGNER, MARY QUANT 

FROM 6 APRIL 2019-16 FEBRUARY 

2020. SEE THE MINIS, HOT PANTS AND 

PVC RAINCOATS THAT REVOLUTIONISED 

BRITISH FASHION ALONGSIDE RARE 

DESIGNS FROM A PUBLIC SHOUT-OUT. 

Ü VAM.AC.UK 


ADVERTORIAL 

WAITRESS 

COME FROM AWAY 

BRIGHT LIGHTS, BIG CITY! 

No visit to London is complete without seeing a show, check out 

some of the capital’s world-class theatre venues 

FIND YOUR NEW FAVOURITE West End musical, dramatic 

play or incredible opera. Enjoy a Shakespeare play at 

the Globe or treat yourself to a ballet at the Royal Opera 

House. You can experience a long-running hit or one of the 

plethora of new London theatres shows such as; 

A LONDON TRANSFER FOR A WARM AND TOUCHING 

BROADWAY HIT… The big sleeper hit Broadway musical of the 

last few years, ‘COME FROM AWAY’tells the unlikely true story 

of a sleepy Newfoundland town that took in strangers from around 

the world when their planes were grounded at the local airport 

in the wake of 9/11. A hit in Canada and the States, ‘Come from 

Away’ is written by Irene Sankoff and David Hein and is directed by 

Christopher Ashley, with musical staging by Kelly Devine. Expect to 

be very charmed. 

You’ll also be blown away by another Broadway hit ‘WAITRESS’ 

a musical brought to life by a ground-breaking all-female creative 

team. This irresistible new hit features original music and lyrics 

by 6-time Grammy® nominee Sara Bareilles (Brave, Love Song), 

a book by acclaimed screenwriter Jessie Nelson (I Am Sam) and 

direction by Tony Award® winner Diane Paulus. (Pippin, Finding 

Neverland). 

‘WAITRESS’ tells the story of Jenna, a waitress and expert pie 

maker who dreams of a way out of her small town and loveless 

marriage. A baking contest and the town’s new doctor may offer 

her a chance at a fresh start, while her fellow waitresses offer their 

own recipes for happiness. But Jenna must summon the strength 

and courage to rebuild her own life. 

Don’t miss this uplifting musical celebrating friendship, 

motherhood, and the magic of a well-made pie..! 


PICTURE CREDITS: MAMMA MIA! PHOTOS © BRINKHOFF/MÖGENBURG; WAITRESS PHOTOS OF ORIGINAL BROADWAY 

CAST; COME FROM AWAY PHOTOS © MATT MURPHY; THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA PHOTOS © JOHAN PERSSON 

MAMMA MIA! 

THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA 

AND THE CLASSICS CONTINUE TO 

ENTERTAIN… 

More than just a jukebox musical Judy 

Craymer's bold idea of turning the insanely 

catchy songs of ABBA into a musical has 

paid off splendidly, in every sense – box office 

figures for 'MAMMA MIA!' are as eyewatering 

as its outfits. 

The original production of ‘MAMMA 

MIA!’ opened in 1999 and since then, this 

ultimate feel-good musical has been seen 

by over eight million people in the West End, 

where it continues to break box office records 

at the Novello Theatre, its third London 

home. 

Set on a Greek island paradise, a story 

of love, friendship and identity is cleverly 

told through the timeless songs of ABBA, 

including "Dancing Queen", "Take A Chance 

On Me" and "Super Trouper". Sophie’s quest 

to discover the father she’s never known 

brings her mother face to face with three men 

from her distant romantic past on the eve of a 

wedding they’ll never forget! 

A stone's throw from Novello Theatre is 

Her Majesty’s Theatre home of the original 

production of ‘THE PHANTOM OF THE 

OPERA’. 

I’m not sure any show deserves to be the 

most successful entertainment event of all 

time, but I’ll hand it to the current holder of 

that title, ‘THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA’ 

as it still continues to thrill its audience. 

‘Phantom…’ remains strong because its 

high production values haven’t been allowed 

to sag. The late Maria Björnson’s design is 

a heady barrage of ravishing costumes and 

lavish sets that change frequently, working in 

everything from pastoral jollity to an ancient 

Carthaginian theme on the way to the 

Phantom’s stunning underground lair. 

It’s totally OTT – in one scene the 

Phantom zaps at his nemesis Raul with a staff 

that fires actual fireballs, its ridiculousness 

and campy story are entirely thrilling when 

realised with the show’s enormous budget. 

And while Hal Prince’s production may 

have been hailed as rather gauche back in 

the day, in 2019 it all comes across as rather 

more tasteful than the average jukebox 

musical. 

Andrew Lloyd Webber's gothic 

spectacular ‘THE PHANTOM OF OPERA’ is 

totally '80s in the best possible way. 

By Jonathan Mountford 

Jonathan is a successful entrepreneur and 

businessman who has worked in the live 

entertainment industry for over 20 years 

and also sits on the British Tourism Industry 

Group at VisitBritain. 

DON'T WAIT! 

B O O K L O N D O N T H E A T R E 

TICKETS ONLINE AND YOU 

COULD SAVE UP TO 60% O N 

UNFORGETTABLE WORLD- 

C L A S S P E R F O R M A N C E S . 

Ü THEATRE.LONDON 


E D I T O R ' S P I C K 

ON THE WATER 

PADDLEBOARDING 

1Paddleboarding, or ‘SUPing’ as it’s now called, (Stand-Up 

Paddleboarding) is not only a brilliant experience by itself – it’s 

also a fabulous way to tour a city! This new UK travel trend has seen 

SUP experiences cropping up across our UK cities, to include seeing 

the exciting waterways of Bristol Harbourside, gliding along the Backs 

past historic Cambridge colleges, through the heart of Bath, to a 

summer's evening trip over to the weir at Stratford-Upon-Avon. 

There’s also pub-to-pub cruises to awesome offshore adventures in 

various locations across the UK. 

Ü supbristol.com 


10of the best 

H I D D E N G E M 

3 

EXPERIENCES 

You have probably read about Thermae Bath Spa's world-famous rooftop pool, with 

35 degree natural thermal springs - but did you know that just across the road is the 

historical Cross Bath, an intimate hidden gem, on street-level, with open-air thermal bath 

available for individual bookings or small groups? Ü thermaebathspa.com/the-spa 

UNIQUE 

EXPERIENCES 

Feel inspired by an awe-inspiring 

flying lesson to a six course 

gourmet dining experience on a 

luxury double-decker bus! 

O N C E I N A L I F E T I M E 

2The Goodwood Flying School in West Sussex launched an exciting new Stearman Flight 

Experience in September last year, making the most of their beautifully crafted Boeing Stearman 

N2S3 biplane and breathtaking Sussex coastline and countryside. The experience costs £449 for a 

half-hour flight for one, or £549 for a 40 minute flight for one, followed by a champagne lunch for 

two at the exclusive members-only clubhouse, The Kennels. 

Ü goodwood.com 

I N T H E C I T Y 

4 

Be made to feel like a local and enjoy the 

experience of being driven around London 

in a Classic Mini Cooper - local guides show you 

the capital through their own eyes as a Londoner. 

Ü smallcarbigcity.com 

5 

Relax in the freshwater hot tub as you sail 

down London’s River Thames, passing by 

some of the capital’s most iconic sights! The 

90-minute experience sets sail from two different 

locations; Angel, north London, taking you 

through the cute and calm waterways of Regent’s 

Canal and, more recently launched, around 

Canary Wharf/West India Quay. Book the VIP 

Experience and receive sailors’ hats, robe and 

towel and an essential ice bucket to keep drinks cool. 

Ü hottuguk.com 


Tulip Festival Mid 

April to early May 

Ancient Castle, Stately Home & Gardens 

for more details, call 01903 882173 

or visit www.arundelcastle.org

EXPERIENCES 

F O O D I E S 

6What a brilliant way to see 

the iconic sights of London 

through a 360° panoramic 

terrace - while enjoying the views 

from the warmth and comfort of 

your table, savouring a French 

inspired six course dinner menu 

with paired wines, and listening 

to soft ambient music. This new 

concept, of fine dining while on 

the move, has been launched in 

London following success with 

the concept in Paris. There’s 

even audiopens so you can 

select attractions from the icons 

on the route map to listen and 

learn more about their history 

and learn some of London's best 

kept secrets. You join the bus at 

Victoria Embankment and they 

offer options of lunch, afternoon 

tea or dinner experiences. 

Ü bustronome.com 

A R C H I T E C T U R E 

8 

Discover the architecture of London with 

this series of walking tours designed to 

interrogate the past, present and future of the 

many areas undergoing massive transformation 

within London - including Greenwich Peninsula, 

Modern Camden Housing Tour and Portland 

Place to Primrose Hill. 

Ü architecturefoundation.org.uk 

I N S T A G R A M M A B L E 

7If you are looking for an off grid experience then Secret Adventures is a fantastic option - 

describing their adventures as ‘bringing a sense of exploration and wonder’ - they like water, 

fire and to explore! Adventures include swimming over to a secret island to wild camp around a fire, 

kayaking at night under Tower Bridge and Husky sledding in the Arctic Circle. Their daytime (they also 

offer nighttime) Kayak experiences from Greenwich to Battersea (or vice-versa) offer you a fabulous 

two hour river view tour of London in stable double kayaks - an ‘oar’ inspiring adventure! 

Ü secretadventures.org 

A N I M A L L O V E R S 

9 

Get ‘hands on’ with magnificent birds of 

prey, including owls, hawks and eagles for 

a truly incredible flying experience with Cheshire 

Falconry, Cheshire. 

Ü cheshirefalconry.com 

10 

Stay at the new luxurious Lion Lodge, set 

within the lions’ enclosure at Port Lympne 

in Kent. A loft-style lodge with floor-to-ceiling 

windows, open plan living, with cosy fireplace, 

underfloor heating, monsoon shower and wet 

room and even a Scandinavian outdoor bath, 

overlooking the sea and 600-acre wildlife reserve. 

Ü aspinallfoundation.org/lionlodge 


A superb selection of special self-catering holiday properties in North Norfolk, ranging 

from romantic hideaways to luxurious barn conversions with coastal views 

www.blakeneycottagecompany.co.uk - bookings@blakeneycottagecompany.co.uk - 01263 741777 

Celebrate Summer 

Create your own island story 

in Alderney... escape the 

ordinary and fall in love with 

this special island. 

visitalderney.com

itineraries 

Idyllic Islands p32 | Interview with Robert Nightingale p36 

In Focus: Newmarket p44 | 48 Hours in Jersey p48 

PICTURE CREDIT: FAIRY POOLS © KENNY LAM VISIT SCOTLAND 

I N N E R H E B R I D E S 

Fairy Pools, Isle of Skye 

These beautifully crystal clear blue 

pools on the River Brittle entice 

visitors from all over the world 

à 


S C O T L A N D 

IDYLLIC ISLANDS 

Shrouded in legend and mystery, Orkney and the Outer 

and Inner Hebrides are remarkable parts of Scotland, with 

breathtaking landscapes and a rich abundance of history 

HOME TO UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES, some older than the 

Pyramids, traces of Viking legacies, Neolithic sites, haunting wartime 

remains, and beaches and seascapes to rival the very best in the world, this 

has to be one of the must-do trips of a lifetime. 

Dream Escape, a leading luxury destination specialist to England, Scotland and Ireland 

has masterfully crafted a week-long itinerary to capture the spirit of these islands, 

journeying through their mysterious lands. 

The Orkney Islands hold some of the finest examples of Neolithic craftsmanship 

and earliest stone circles in Britain, dating back to at least 3100BC. Known as the “Big 

Four”, these riveting displays of an ancient time are treasured at the Neolithic Orkney 

World Heritage Site where our journey begins. Most impressive and striking is the 

settlement known as Skara Brae, Europe’s most complete Neolithic village, with its eight 

clustered houses dating back to a time before Stonehenge was built. 

Thanks to Dream Escape, the trip allows for a very special, private twilight tour of the 

settlement as well as the rare chance to enter one of the delicate houses, not ordinarily 

open to the public. A truly enthralling experience, this is a special moment to reflect 

upon its inhabitants whilst listening to its haunting stories from an expert guide. 

From an ancient past to more recent history, we visit Scapa Flow, a great natural 

harbour that was a vital naval base during both World Wars. From here, it’s on to the 

uninhabited island of Lamb Holm, with its remarkable Italian Chapel, built by Italian 

prisoners of war during World War II. The chapel was lovingly restored in 1960 by the 

artist Domenico Chiocchetti, who was responsible for the original design, and it remains 

a touching token of the triumph of the human spirit over adversity. 

Orkney’s capital – Kirkwall – is another fascinating stop and home to Britain’s most 

northerly Cathedral, dating from the 12th century. It has a violent Viking past, and still 

houses some wonderful ancient buildings including the Bishop’s Palace, which was built 

around the same time as the Cathedral, and the Earl’s Palace, built around 1600 for Earl 

Robert Stewart, an illegitimate son of King James V of Scotland. à 

Picture Credit: Sunset over the Neist Point Lighthouse, Isle of Skye, Scotland © Istockphoto/Marcello Land 


Creative | Connected | | People | Exclusive Travel Experiences in in the the UK UK && Ireland 

www.dreamescape.co.uk 

enquiries@dreamescape.co.uk | 0845 | 0845 260 260 1085 1085

“Island hopping in The Outer Hebrides 

captures the unique spirit of each island 

and offers an introduction into this 

unique island life” 

C O O R D I N A T E S 

LATITUDE 57.7599N 

LONGITUDE 7.0 1 9 4 W 

The Islands are also famous for their 

numerous distilleries, from the smallest 

in the world, Valhalla Brewery, to a string 

of brand-new haunts. For true whisky 

aficionados, Dream Escape arranges an 

exclusive behind the scenes visit to the most 

northerly of Scotland’s distilleries, visiting 

parts that are usually off-limits, and that 

have been opened for a tutored tasting of 

four spectacular vintages – 1968, 1970, 1971 

and 1976 – and the chance to sample from 

an exclusive single cask bottling in front of 

a crackling fire. We also loved the option 

to take a private jet to reach these far-flung 

stills for private whisky tasting and long 

lunches in hidden bothies – what could be 

better! 

Island hopping in The Outer Hebrides 

captures the unique spirit of each island and 

offers an introduction into this unique island 

life. Lewis is the largest and northernmost 

island of the archipelago and is home to the 

awe-inspiring stones at Calanais, another 

famed prehistoric site dating from around 

3000 BC. Blackhouse Museum is also a 

‘must’ for those truly wanting to understand 

the crofting way of life once widespread on 

these isles. 

Thankfully Dream Escape guests will rest 

in a rather more contemporary take on one 

of these traditional island houses! 

Think Scandi-style interiors, complete with 

floor to ceiling windows and panoramic 

views of the Atlantic Ocean. 

Famed for its white beaches, clear 

waters and coastline, there is nowhere 

better than the Isle of Harris for a bracing 

walk along the beach before stopping to 

pick up some world-famous Harris Tweed, 

and finally heading off to the most remote 

part of the British Isles, St Kilda. St Kilda’s 

islands, with their exceptional cliffs and sea 

stacks, form the most important seabird 

breeding station in northwest Europe. The 

earliest written records of island life here 

date from the late-Middle Ages and since 

then, the population has probably never 

exceeded 180. 

The remaining population, some 36 

residents that were known as St Kildans, 

were evacuated on 29 August 1930 from 

Hirta, the only inhabited island, to the 

Scottish mainland – at their own request. 

Today, the island is a World Heritage Site 

and is one of only 24 global locations to be 

awarded “mixed” World Heritage Status 

for its natural and cultural significance. 

Currently, the only year-round residents 

are military personnel; and a variety of 

conservation workers, volunteers and 

scientists spend time there in the summer 

months. 

This fascinating look at St Kilda marks 

the end of our seven-day journey through 

the Orkney Islands, the Inner and Outer 

Hebrides; a journey packed with history, 

inspirational stories of old and new, and 

raw Scottish beauty all washed down with 

a little water of life. It is time to step back 

into the present and leave the past and this 

bygone era behind. u 

PICTURE THE MOMENT 

ABOVE: ISLE OF SKYE 

Here you will find some of 

Scotland’s most iconic landscapes: 

rugged mountains, sparkling lochs, 

dramatic sea cliffs and stunning moors. 

The island is also a treasure trove of 

history with prehistoric sites, castles and 

crofting museums, and cosy pubs and 

superb restaurants. 

BELOW: ISLE OF LEWIS 

One of the largest and 

northernmost of the 200 islands that 

make up the Outer Hebrides, the Isle of 

Lewis is steeped in history and culture, 

home to the awe-inspiring ancient stone 

circles at Calanais, Dun Caroloway and 

Arnol Blackhouse. 

D R E A M E S C A P E H A S 

E X P E R T K N O W L E D G E O F 

S C O T L A N D , E N G L A N D , 

I R E L A N D A N D L O N D O N 

A N D S P E C I A L I S E S I N 

C R E A T I N G I N S P I R A T I O N A L 

A N D E X C I T I N G 

I T I N E R A R I E S T O E A C H O F 

THESE DESTINATIONS. 

Ü DREAMESCAPE.CO.UK 


I N T E R V I E W W I T H 

ROBERT NIGHTINGALE 

Malle London founder talks to us about The Great Malle Rally, 

5 days, 1250 beautiful miles, stunning landscapes, breaking down, 

wild cooked hearty breakfasts, Tug of War – and much more! 

Photographs | Amy Shore 

FOUNDER OF adventure accessories 

brand Malle London, Robert 

Nightingale has been on an epic 

journey, taking part himself in their 

annual motorcycle rally for the very first time 

(usually he’s in the background helping!) 

The Great Malle Rally is the longest 

motorcycle rally ever attempted in the UK - 

1250 beautiful miles from the very northern 

tip of Scotland to the southern tip of England. 

Now held over five stages/ 

days, the 1250 mile rally route 

carves a unique path across 

beautiful landscapes, 

mountains, coasts 

and valleys in 

Great Britain, 

mainly on tiny 

B-Roads. 

Pictured Left- 

Right: Robert 

Nightingale and 

Calum Pryce- 

Tidd of deBolex 

Engineering and 

lead engineer of 

the rally. 

What are you riding in the rally? 

Against the advice of many, I decided to ride my late 

father’s 1957 custom Triumph Thunderbird, which I got 

working earlier this year, and it turned out to be the oldest 

motorcycle in the 2018 rally! 

Why is this the first time you’ve entered the rally? 

Over the last three years I’ve helped the Malle team 

research the rally route, normally from the back of a 

support vehicle, but as my first time riding in the rally 

with a team, it was a completely different experience. 

Tell us about your rally preparation 

The day before the rally, like most of the riders I was 

scrambling to complete the bike in time, finding last 

minute spare parts that might break or rattle off. On 

the forecourt of The Classic Car Club in London, bits 

of the Thunderbird were littered around the bike, more 

and more custom/classic rally bikes were being dropped 

off every hour, which only added more pressure to the 

impending deadline. I managed to fit a new oil-feed 

pipe, “new” custom California handlebars, bent the 

mud-guards out a bit to accommodate the larger offroad 

trials tyres, fitted race plates and gave it a fresh 

oil change. After a quick lap around the backstreets of 

Shoreditch past the BikeShed to test the brakes and the 

oil flow - the bike was pretty much ready to go. First thing 

the next morning we helped the professionals load the 

bikes into crates at The Classic Car Club and onto the à 


“Against the 

advice of many, 

I decided 

to ride my 

late father’s 

1957 custom 

Triumph 

Thunderbird, 

which I got 

working earlier 

this year, and it 

turned out to 

be the oldest 

motorcycle in 

the 2018 rally!” 


ally trucks. Strapped in tight, for the long and 

slow journey up to the Castle of Mey, located at 

the very northern tip of mainland Britain. 

What happens at the start line? 

After 24 hours of driving north from London, 

we finally reached the top of the country in the 

support vehicles and set up the rally camp at 

the northern tip. Overlooking the North Sea 

from the Castle of Mey, with the glow of the 

refineries on the horizon behind the islands of 

Stroma and Orkney, seals playing in the bay 

beneath camp. The team from the Nomadic 

Kitchen (Tom & Will) arrived riding a pair of 

borrowed Royal Enfield Himalayans, got out 

their knives, lit the fires and prepared the first 

nights wild cooking feast - fire roasted pork 

loin and mouth watering roasted salads. 70+ 

riders descended on the Castle of Mey from all 

over the world (mainly Europe) for the Riders’ 

Check-In. 

After all riders had checked in, we rode five 

miles along the coast up to the lighthouse, 

perched on a slab of rock 250m above the 

lashing sea. Seventy completely unique classic/ 

café/custom motorcycles made up the pack, 

as we snaked back and forth up the hill to 

the lighthouse. I turned to see all the bikes 

behind me meandering up the hill in single 

file, moving as one continuous machine, the 

headlamps lighting up the hill in the dusk - it 

was a beautiful sight. We rode back along the 

coast and the local villagers had come out of 

their house to wave the rally past, very sweet. 

The feeling that the rally was about to begin 

was building. 

Back at camp, we had the first and most 

detailed riders’ briefing, describing the next 

day’s route, with riders from last year’s rally 

joining in with local tips on the route and their 

thoughts on the rally experience and team 

riding. The briefing was followed by the now 

customary whisky pairing; local single-malt 

with locally caught/smoked salmon. There was 

a toast, a cheer, a gulp of whisky and it was 

back to the bikes! 

What happened on the first day in stage 1? 

I don’t know if Tom and Will from the 

Nomadic Kitchen made it to bed that 

night, I woke at 5am and they were slaving 

away over the fire, knocking out a hearty 

wild cooked breakfast for everyone. Rally 

mornings are always the most rushed and 

the first day was the most chaotic, bikes and 

kit everywhere - riders running from tents to 

bikes, half dressed in leathers, toothbrush in 

one hand, with a coffee and spanner in the 

other, trying to find some odd component 

that they were sure they packed. We had a 

quick briefing with the rally marshals at 6am, 

minutes later they tore off on bikes, which in 

that moment felt like we were about to play 

the largest game of hide and seek in the land. 

With a two hour head start, the marshals 

headed out to set up check-points and report 

back of any route problems. We threw our 

rally duffels into the support vehicles and 

headed to the start-line at the Castle. 

With all the planning in the world, some 

things you can’t predict. After I and half of 

the bikes had reached the start line, with not 

a soul in sight, the local farmer, not realising 

there were another 40 bikes behind us, 

closed the in-road with a JCB, acting as a 

blockade for his cows. As we soon learned 

the “Royal Cows” take priority and the big 

herd ran boisterously down the castle track. 

You don’t want to put a motorcycle in the 

way of that stampede. 

Minutes later, everyone was assembled in 

front of the Castle, the first time some of the 

teams had really met each other. Log books 

out, stamped, the flag dropped - the rally 

had begun. Teams departed in five minute 

intervals. My plan was to ride out as soon 

as the last team had left and catch up with 

them. Second hitch of the morning, a modern 

street-scrambler suddenly wouldn’t start. 

Calum from deBolex Engineering who heads 

up the engineering team can fix anything. He 


INTERVIEW 

“I turned to see all the bikes behind me meandering 

up the hill in single file, moving as one continuous 

machine, the headlamps lighting up the hill in the dusk 

- it was a beautiful sight.” 

got the King-Dick tool chest out, with jump 

leads, meters...he found a serious charging 

issue. 

My team departed an hour or so behind 

schedule, but it felt so good finally to be out 

on the road, after the months of planning, 

logistics and comms we were in it. I was 

riding with Team-7, two couples on a mix of 

modern Triumphs and Bobbers. We barely 

saw another vehicle for the first few hours 

of the day, hugging the coastline that rises 

and twists along the hilly coast, one of the 

best parts of the North Coast 500 route. The 

Thunderbird was pulling strong and running 

like clockwork, we made great time, across 

the Tongue Bridge, through Checkpoint 2, 

onto Checkpoint 3 - stage 1 was pretty easy 

going. We only needed to turn right about 

twice, the rest the of the day was following 

one gorgeous yet tiny B-road down the 

entire western side of the Scottish Highlands, 

through truly wild countryside. In places the 

sea was a turquoise blue, if it wasn’t for the 

fact that you were in Scotland, the white sand 

beaches could be in the Caribbean 

By the 4th checkpoint we had caught 

up with a few more teams and met up with 

the BMW Motorrad team, lead by Ralf and 

Lucas with photographer Amy Shore who 

was documenting the rally. That day Amy 

was flying along in a vintage Mini with the 

top down, shooting riders out of the back 

with her cameras. 

Faster than we released, the seven hour ride 

was soon ending and the signs for Torridon 

started to appear. As we came across the 

small pass from Kinlochewe, we reached Loch 

Torridon and rode along it until we reached the 

rally camp at the grand Torridon Estate. I kept 

an eye on the edge of the loch as we rode, the 

last time we were up here on the research trip 

we spent an hour watching a family of otters 

fishing for trout along the bank. Torridon did 

not disappoint, the estate is run by a wonderful 

Scottish/German couple that served up 

‘Tartan Tapas’ with local scallops and fish 

from the sealoch. After the rally briefing and 

the whisky pairing, the instruments were out, 

Scottish music started and somehow ended 

up in an impromptu Highland Games. After 

we were thrashed at a Tug of War... I turned 

to something I was slightly better at, bike 

tinkering. The bike seemed to be doing well, it 

was keeping up with the modern BMW’s and 

she was in her element on these tiny twisty 

roads, much lighter than most modern bikes 

I’ve ridden, it’s quite easy to steer the nimble 

bike with your knees, keeping the bars straight 

and pushing the back end around corners. 

What was the riding like in Scotland? 

On day two of Scotland we had an early start 

and after a Scottish breakfast served amongst 

the trees, the morning rally ritual of oil/coffee/ 

briefing - with the marshal-dash and then 

pack and suit up - ready for the day. Suddenly 

the midges decided to make an appearance, 

within minutes riders may not have had their 

jackets on, but most of us had helmets on with 

visors down - midges are a hellish event - this 

sped up our departure, log-books stamped, 

flag down - off we rode. Another gorgeous 

day of sunshine as we headed straight over to 

the highest pass in Scotland and the steepest 

legal road in the UK, for the Applecross 

Pass. The roads around there are beautifully 

smooth and seem to have been laid out by a 

roller-coaster engineer, with a good sense of 

humour, twisting up and down over endless 

hills, perfect. 

First engineering hiccup of the day - Ravi’s 

Moto Guzzi had arrived at Checkpoint 2 

at the start of the pass and then decided to 

throw up all over the road. A big black pool 

of fresh oil beneath the bike - a leaky hose 

or a faulty clip. After 30 minutes of fettling, 

our new friends in the BMW team arrived. He 

looked at the hose and said “I’ve got just ze 

thing”, we thought he was going to come à 


ack with a brochure for a modern BWM, but 

came back with some very smart white plastic 

gloves, tools and spare hoses. Ten minutes 

later, both teams were back on the road, and 

what a road the Applecross Pass is. Getting 

to the top is one thing, but the view down into 

the valley with the Isle of Skye in the distance 

is amazing. The road boasts a dozen hair-pin 

bends as it progresses down the valley - as 

soon as I reached the bottom I just wanted 

to ride back up and do it all again. But there 

were more mountain passes to come. 

Stage 2 was definitely a longer day, about 

eight hours of riding in total. We arrived at 

Checkpoint 3 at the start of Glencoe - the 

Great Glen. A breath-taking ride through 

that monstrous valley, imposing mountains 

on every side, the stags were grazing up on 

the heather/granite foothills - you’re riding 

through a whisky advert! As we came to 

Checkpoint 4, I parked the bike up and 

something smelled bad. With an old bike, 

there’s no warning light if something’s 

starting to go wrong, you have to use all of 

your senses, touch, listen and in this case 

smell the motorcycle - normally the bike has 

a gorgeous hot-oil aroma to it - something 

didn’t smell right. 

We carried on the ride through Loch 

Lomond and the Trossachs and down the 

coast to the extremely bizarre and beautiful 

Kelburn Castle where our rally camp was 

based for the night (the castle was painted by 

a group of Brazilian street artists). 

As I turned up the drive to the castle, I 

wasn’t getting as much power as I normally 

would, or was it just my imagination, when 

you’ve been riding all day, 280+ miles, you’re 

tired and your mind can play tricks on you, 

maybe it’s me not the bike? The Nomadic 

Kitchen team were already at the fire when 

we arrived, roasting butterfly lamb. Dinner 

that night was a well lubricated affair, after 

a walk around the grounds of the castle, 

back at camp we were greeted by a fantastic 

sunset over the bay. Calum and I had a look 

over the bike and realised the throttle was 

misbehaving, sticking slightly...but nothing 

major it seemed, nothing to explain the 

smell or the power loss. At this point I should 

probably have taken that pre-rally advice and 

maybe given the bike a day’s rest. 

Tell us about Stage 3 in the Lake District 

Another early start and the good weather 

was still on our side. I knew this was going 

to be a long day, 300+ miles on the route 

card, I joined the last team to leave who 

were enjoying a leisurely start, but then it 

appeared that the old Police issue Moto 

Guzzi had snapped an alternator belt. After 

some quick calling around, we located a 

shop 20 miles down the road where we might 

get one. Our team headed out on a brief 

detour to source belts and parts, adding an 

hour off course. After we crossed the border 

and left Scotland for the Lake District, we 

“With an old bike, there’s no warning light if something’s 

starting to go wrong, you have to use all of your senses, 

touch, listen, and in this case smell the motorcycle” 

were happily cruising for a few hours as a 

team, when I felt power suddenly drop on 

the Thunderbird. I limped along to the next 

turning, two minutes down a country lane. I 

found a safe spot to park up, for some reason 

the bike was only getting full power when in 

high or low revs, but nothing in the middle. I 

searched the electrics, then got word that the 

support vehicle was only five minutes away. 

We looked over the bike, stripped the carb, 

gave it a clean and then the bike seemed to 

be running fine, strange. 

I caught up with my team at Checkpoint 

3 and we rode as a team down in to the Lake 

District, across the two highest mountain 

passes in the Lakes - from Buttermere across 

the Hardknot Pass. The Thunderbird was 

back in her element, throwing it from side 

to side up the mountain roads. The sun was 

shining, a fantastic afternoon of riding over 

the passes and along the lakes, dodging 

stray sheep, cows and tractors. Unbeknown 

to us, late that afternoon a lorry driver had 

fallen asleep on the M6, knocking out an 

entire motorway bridge, he was completely 

fine, but it shut down the entire motorway 

for 24 hours (the local newspaper the next 

morning called him the most unpopular 

man in Lancashire). Which meant that all 

that traffic spilled onto every other nearby 

route, bumper to bumper traffic for 50 miles 

in every direction - exactly in the area we 

were all trying to ride through. Luckily we 

were on bikes and could filter through the 

bad patches of traffic. We should have been 

back at camp by 6pm, we arrived starving at 

around 9pm, at the very quirky and eccentric 

Heskin Hall. Our support crew weren’t quite 

as lucky, the Malle-Rover turned up at the 

Manor gates just after midnight, with a 

Commando in the back (the Norton had 

fallen off its centre stand and snapped a 

small, yet vital lever). 

What were the highlights in Wales? 

By day four you could start to feel the toll 

of three solid days of riding, 750’ish miles, 

two countries behind us as we crossed over 

into Wales. I started that day with the BMW 

Motorrad team and the thunderstorm clouds 

kept threatening to break. A couple of times 

we stopped, threw on wet weather gear, but 

most patches were just light showers, so we 

rode as a pack through the winding roads 

of Snowdonia National Park, down the 

infamous A470 (voted the most beautiful 

road in the country) around the back of Mt 

Snowdon and down through the valley. By 

Checkpoint 3 we were joined by another 

team with a very fast Triumph Thruxton 

leading the pack. To keep up with them all I 

really had to press my chin on the tank, tuck 

elbows in and try to get another 10mph or 

so out of the bike. Somewhere in Snowdonia 

my key must have rattled out, so I borrowed a 

small teaspoon from the café which seemed 

to do the trick of starting the bike. The 

weather still held but as we left the Brecon 

Beacons the wind was picking up, bringing 

with it a new energy that you feel before 

storms. Riding with three teams now, 12 or so 

bikes together, we crossed the Severn Bridge 

at a furious rate. Riding in all three lanes, I’m 

not sure if we were actually going that fast, or 

if it was the head on wind that was bashing 

the bikes about as we rode across the huge 

suspension bridge - quite a departure from 

the quiet tracks of the Scottish Highlands, but 


INTERVIEW 

riding in a fast pack like that is so much fun. I 

think the BMW’s were politely humouring my 

attempt at keeping up the pace, through my 

wildly vibrating side mirror I could just make 

out the image of Jochen grinning and riding 

along side-saddle on his café racer BMW and 

then occasionally wheeling past me. I didn’t 

think being overtaken would be a highlight... 

but it was a great memory of that stage. 

We were chasing each other down the 

lanes of the Mendip Hills, when we saw the 

welcome site of two rally flags up ahead. 

The guys from Sinroja motorcycles lead 

the marshal team that day and waved us 

in smiling. The landscape was completely 

different around there, the camp was 

perched on top of the Cheddar Gorge on a 

large flat plain, with gorges surrounding the 

area on three sides. Word spread that night 

that there was a full lunar eclipse, with a 

blood moon - unfortunately the storm clouds 

had descended on the dark camp - so instead 

we hosted a motorcycle race. 

The boys wheeled out the Mini Malle Moto, 

a half thrashed monkey bike from The 

Malle Mile, I pushed the Thunderbird out 

into the middle of the long grass a hundred 

metres away, they turned all the support 

vehicles around with full beams to light 

up the “track”. One at a time every rider 

and marshal took a timed lap around the 

marker-bike and back. 10% didn’t make it 

across the start-line and then the Belgian 

rally team proved that it was actually faster 

to run the route by foot and beat the monkey 

bike. After the race finished and the winners 

were awarded a cold beer, I was walking 

the Thunderbird back across to camp and 

realised the tank badges must have rattled 

off somewhere in Wales. Steadily it seemed, I 

was leaving bits of the Triumph on roadsides 

up and down the country. 

How was the final stretch to the finish line? 

The last day of the rally was supposed to be 

the shortest day, but the motorcycle gods had 

other plans....We woke to good news that the 

storm hadn’t broken yet, but big dark clouds 

hung menacingly on the horizon, full of water 

- I guess on the last stage of the rally, you need 

a little drama - you don’t want everything to 

be too easy. For the last day we had arranged 

for the press-marshal Rachel Billings - who 

was writing about the rally - to ride with our à 


INTERVIEW 

team to shoot 35mm film from my bike.... 

slight problem... the bike wouldn’t start. After 

30 minutes of tinkering and some kind words 

whispered to the bike, she suddenly roared 

into life. By that time all of the teams were 

now 30 minutes ahead of us. We jumped on 

and headed down into the Gorge. Ok it’s not 

the Grand Canyon, but it’s a great ride. In the 

rough words of Bill Bryson “England doesn’t 

have the biggest or the highest or the deepest 

of anything, but it does a lot with what it’s got” 

and the country here is unique, varied and 

very pretty. Tiny postcard villages and castles 

connect the dots all the way from Wales to 

Devon and on to Cornwall. 

En route to Exmoor, it poured with rain, 

black skies above, the sort of downpour where 

immediately there are deep pools of water on 

the lanes, mini rivers at the sides. Somehow 

water gets into your boots, soaks your socks 

and you hunch your shoulders and neck to try 

and close any gaps between helmet and jacket 

and soldier on. I remember shouting to Rachel 

“shall we take shelter” as we sped through the 

driving rain, but she shouted back “just keep 

going” - she’s got grit! 

The rain was relentless, but then the rain 

ended and there was a faint hint of blue sky up 

ahead, things were looking up... and then the 

bike died. We rolled to a silent stop in an old 

school house drive. 

Out with the tools, so much for Rachel’s 

rally team photos which was the photo-brief 

for the day. I was pretty sure we were miles 

behind the other teams. By sheer coincidence 

Calum and the support Land Rover drove 

by only ten minutes later. We went over the 

obvious things, then took out the battery, only 

to discover that the two new lithium batteries 

had fused together in some horrible hotmolten-mess. 

The bike might be out of the rally 

and only 150 miles from the finish line. 

Luckily we weren’t in the wilds of Mongolia, 

it’s midday on a Saturday in England. We start 

calling up all local bike garages trying to find 

a classic 6V battery. After ten no-goes we find 

one en route that thinks he has some in stock, 

we quickly stick the bike in the trailer and as 

we did four of the rally teams roared past us, 

beeping. So we weren’t last after all at that 

stage. 

We found the old motorcycle shop, owned 

by a young guy who specialises in vintage 


PICTURE CREDIT © RACHEL BILLINGS 

Japanese imports from the 1980’s...quite 

niche, but he has the battery! £6.50 later it’s 

installed, the sun’s shining and we’re back 

on track. We headed for Checkpoint 2, we’re 

still in the running and things look good. As 

we reached Exmoor, the landscape changed 

completely, a wild open moor, with animals 

running across the roads. We crossed the top 

and the bike seems to be struggling again, fine 

in high revs, but no power below max revs, it 

coughs, spluttering, then just the sound of air 

rushing past you, as the bike free-wheels in 

neutral down a very long hill into the deepest 

valley in Exmoor. 

We rolled to a silent stop outside an old 

garage that looks like it has been closed for 

decades. No network connection, Rachel 

walked up the valley, still nothing, I started 

going over the bike, no joy, the battery was 

completely dead. After 20 minutes or so a little 

voice popped up from the hedge behind the 

garage “need some ‘elp?”. 

A small older gentleman, in a blue baseball 

cap came through the gate smiling. I explain 

the bike problem, the man, in his late 70’s, tells 

us he used to get a lot of these bikes here back 

in the day and he owned a similar model once. 

He rubbed his big mechanic’s hands over the 

engine and says “well let’s try and fix it”. He 

heaves open the sliding doors of the ancient 

petrol station. I notice the faded paint on the 

inside walls ‘The Black Cat Garage’. Inside 

he had a load of old bike parts, some possibly 

working, some hanging from the ceiling, but 

he has a workbench of old tools - this might 

be the best place we could have broken down 

in the whole of England! He had an industrial 

battery charger, but after no success with the 

old 6V, Fred says “I have an idea”, he pulls 

something out of an old scooter “this might 

work”, it still has charge. We put it next to the 

Thunderbird and with makeshift copper wires 

from something else, we hooked it up. The 

Thunderbird kicked over first time! 

Fred wouldn’t accept a penny for the 

battery, we wrangle it into the battery box 

on its end, holding it in place with gaffa 

tape. We thanked him again, loaded up and 

headed off down the green tree lined tunnels 

of Exmoor - and the rain had stopped. To 

make it up to Rachel for that last five hours 

of riding in the rain, three dead batteries, 

two garages, four pairs of soaking gloves, I 

suggested we stop on Dartmoor for a quick 

bite to warm up. We rode in to the oldest pub 

on Dartmoor. There was a wedding going on 

in the back of the pub, the bride walked out 

head to toe in white lace, looking radiant - we 

met at the door of the pub - I’m dressed head 

to toe in Black waxed canvas, covered in black 

oil and dirt, hungry and looking angry “I think 

we’re complete opposites” I mentioned. We 

went to start the bike, nothing, silence. The 

rain started spitting, I reluctantly called the 

support vehicle, Calum’s two hours south 

almost in Cornwall. 

A rowdy group of young male wedding 

guests came out of the back of the pub, half 

cut, they all have an opinion on how we can 

start the bike. Moments later they’re taking 

turns to help me push the Triumph to the top 

of the hill, across the bridge and bump starting 

me across the river. 

watching the odometer count down the last 

17 miles, shouting out at each mile marker for 

a morale boost “15....14....13”. Finally the sign 

for ‘Mile End’ appeared, the last mile south on 

mainland Britain. I arrived at Lizard Point just 

after sunset, 9pm, four hours late to the final 

checkpoint and the finish line. Noone in sight, 

the rally flags had long since been cleared 

away, but so good to be there, gazing over the 

sea at Lizard Point. 

I turn to get back on the bike, the 

lighthouse lighting up the horizon and the 

silhouette of the Thunderbird, reminding me 

of the view north from the lighthouse at the 

northern tip of Scotland, just a few days ago, 

but it seems like an age away. 

The poor bike, bits missing, smelling 

bad, no lights, exhausted and in dire need 

of lubrication - the bike and I had a lot in 

common at that moment. 

“I’m not giving up now, keeping the bike at full revs, 

I hammered it down the lanes, taking all of the 

roundabouts in third gear.” 

On the 15th go, it roared back to life, they 

cheer, Rachel downs the last of her drink and 

we’re back in the game. 

A few hours later as we crossed into 

Cornwall, the rain started again. I saw a 

familiar Land Rover in a country lay-by. After 

nine hours on the bike, six of them in the rain, 

Rachel wisely swapped her seat on the bike for 

a drier one in the support vehicle. 

As I pulled away - with determination to 

complete this rally on the Thunderbird - the 

rain really set in, it was already raining but 

now it’s pouring, my last pair of gloves are 

soaked, the bike then started to misbehave. 

Again it only ran at full revs, then I realised 

I’d lost the lights and then the front brake 

gave up. I saw the sign for Helston and The 

Lizard...only 17 miles. 

I’m not giving up now, keeping the bike 

at full revs, I hammered it down the lanes, 

taking all of the roundabouts in third gear. I 

considered taking the more direct route across 

the middle of a roundabout, rather than 

around it, but thought better of it. Hunched 

on the saddle, trying to keep the water out, 

Any last words about the rally experience? 

When I got back to the rally camp from the 

finish line at The Lizard, the afterparty was in 

full swing, fires lit, drinks flowing, with a gail 

still howling across the Cornish peninsula - I 

walked into the food tent like a half-drowned 

cowboy. I was the last to leave Scotland and 

the last to arrive at the finish line, but once 

I started riding those roads with my team, 

there was no way I was going to miss out and 

take a rest day. Things went wrong, bits fell 

off, but I wouldn’t change it one bit, that was 

the adventure. u 

I N T E R E S T E D I N J O I N I N G T H E 

G R E A T M A L L E R A L LY 2 0 1 9 

A D V E N T U R E W H I C H T A K E S 

PLACE JUNE 24-30? 

R A L LY P L A C E S A R E V E R Y 

L I M I T E D , T O S I G N - U P O R F I N D 

OUT MORE EMAIL THE TEAM: 

Ü RALLY@MALLELONDON.COM 


I N F O C U S 

NEWMARKET 

At the heart of East Anglia is Newmarket, 

the international magnet at the centre of 

Britain’s flat-racing industry 

FOREMOST AMONG THE MANY reasons 

for today’s tourists to explore the fascinating 

region of East Anglia, with its rich and 

absorbing history, ancient and modern, is the 

chance to visit the birthplace of ‘The Sport of Kings’, 

Newmarket. This unassuming, small market town, 

just 15 miles to the east of Cambridge, was the historic 

birthplace, and has become the epicentre, of the 

world’s thoroughbred horseracing. 

The connection with British royalty can be traced 

back to 1609, when James I had a small palace built 

here, but it was the influence of the post-Restoration 

Charles II which transformed the fortunes of 

Newmarket, laying the foundations for what is now a 

multi-billion pound industry. After the 13 austere years 

of Oliver Cromwell’s ‘protectorship’, this hedonist king 

took great pleasure in sporting pursuits, particularly 

horse-racing, and established his own, modest stables 

in the grounds of his palace. He saw the potential 

of the town’s surrounding 2500 acres of, mostly, 

flat grassland for the training of horses and this vast 

tract, since 1750 in the care of the Jockey Club and 

not ploughed for at least 400 years, now provides 

the equivalent of 50 miles of unrivalled natural turf 

gallops (in narrow strips, regularly changed) and 

14 miles of all-weather track. Now, the town boasts 

over 70 registered trainers, with stable-yards housing 

more than 3500 horses, most of whom can be seen, 

every day, taking their turn at exercise on the famous 

Warren Hill. The racing itself has also developed. 

From the long-distance challenge matches of the 17th 

century (origin of the name of the village ‘Six Mile 

Bottom’) have come two modern courses, the ‘Rowley 

Mile’ for the early-season Classic races and the July 

Course, used later in the calendar. With so much topclass 

horseflesh in the vicinity, many breeding units, 

known as ‘studs’, have been established where owners 

offer the services of known winners, both stallions and 

mares, in carefully-controlled circumstances, ensuring 

the purity and sustainability of the ‘bloodline’. The 

wonderhorse ‘Frankel’, retired to stud after a stellar, 

unbeaten racing career, now stands available to 

‘serve’, but his owners will expect £175,000 for every 

foal produced as a result! 

Newmarket is now UK’s largest horse-breeding 

centre, home to the magnificent National Stud 

operation, the only commercial property of its kind 

offering public tours – which resume in February 

2019 - in the UK, and several other world-leading stud 

farms. To guarantee the best of medical attention, 

three veterinary practices and two world-class horse 

hospitals are available, all staffed by an army of 

equine specialists. To complete the commercial 

cycle, the town is also the sales-base for the oldest 

bloodstock auctioneers in the world, Tattersalls 

through whose hands pass the finest young horses in the 

world. Some are ’yearlings’ and, with no track record, 

are for sale solely on the basis of their appearance à 

PICTURE CREDITS: © NATIONAL HORSERACING MUSEUM BY MARC ATKINS / ART FUND 2017 


and the racing performance of their parents 

and antecedents. Huge sums may be ‘invested’ 

on this basis – the highest price in 2018 was £3.7 

million pounds! 

The gallops and racecourses are owned 

by The Jockey Club, a non-profit organisation 

ensuring horseracing’s posterity, as is the 

National Stud opened by HM the Queen, 

Elizabeth II in 1967 and the temporary home 

to hundreds of mares from around the world, 

brought to Newmarket for access to the best 

stallions in the breeding season in the hope 

of producing a champion of the future. The 

tourism organisation ‘Discover Newmarket’ 

offers an excellent range of informative 

guided tours of the showplaces, including the 

gallops, fabled training-yards (we visited Ed 

Dunlop, studs and surrounding countryside). 

From a central meeting point, the Discover 

Newmarket guides drive visitors around to 

the various attractions. 

No visit to Newmarket could be considered 

complete without a serious look at ‘where 

it all started’. Near the town centre was the 

site of Charles II’s palace and, after a huge 

financial and physical commitment, it was 

here that, just four years ago, our current 

Queen opened ‘Palace House’. On a five-acre 

site, three complementary attractions make 

up the superbly-presented National Heritage 

Centre for Horseracing and Sporting Art. 

In a beautifully-restored surviving part of 

the old palace are the fabulous Museum & 

Galleries of British Sporting Art, featuring 

priceless works by masters such as Stubbs, 

Munnings, Singer Sargent and many more, 

bringing together images of all manner of 

traditional British sporting pursuits, perfectly 

displayed. Nearby, across the street, is the 

National Horseracing Museum, handsomely 

telling the rich story of the origins, and 

development, of ‘the sport of kings’ through 

exhibits of historic silverware, racing silks 

and caps and photographs, films and stories 

of optimistic owners and the many famous 

jockeys who rode their horses to glory. You will 

gain a fascinating insight into the scientific 

development of the ‘ideal’ horse, through 

the ages, tour the original 1903 Rothschild 

Yard, where you can meet former racehorses 

and find out how retired thoroughbreds are 

retrained after their racing days are over. 

A good day at the museum deserves some 

‘downtime’ and the excellent ‘Tack Room’ 

café is the place to rest and refresh, with 

immaculate service, an extensive bill-of-fare 

“On a five-acre site, 

three complementary 

attractions make up 

the superbly-presented 

National Heritage Centre 

for Horseracing and 

Sporting Art.” 

and comfortable surroundings. A buzzy 

ambience, throughout the day, only adds to 

the pleasure of the experience. 

Take your time, breathe in the rarefied 

atmosphere and appreciate what all the 

centuries of human commitment (and 

equestrian effort) have achieved – the ‘Turf’ 

will get to you and you’ll never treat the 

racing results with disdain, ever again. u 

WHERE TO STAY 

î QUY MILL HOTEL & SPA 

10 miles from Newmarket is this 4* hotel, 

bright, modern and welcoming. Its 51 clean 

and well-furnished guestrooms are either 

in the mill-house or in attractive, singlestorey 

additions. The Mill House Restaurant 

provides top-quality dining and there is a 

popular Spa and Wellness Centre 

Ü bestwestern.co.uk 

î WEEPING WILLOW 

10 miles east of Newmarket is Barrow 

where a run-down pub, housed in an 

early 16th century property, has been 

transformed into an amazing gastropub. 

The restaurant is sophisticated, with a 

winning combination, of great atmosphere, 

superb food and splendid comfort. 

Ü theweepingwillow.co.uk 

î BEDFORD LODGE HOTEL & SPA 

A Four Red Star boutique hotel and spa 

located in Newmarket. Originally built as 

a Georgian hunting lodge for the Sixth 

Duke of Bedford in the 18th Century, the 

building was converted into a hotel in 

the 1940s. This luxurious hotel and 2 AA 

Rosette restaurant blends old and new 

in a pretty countryside garden setting. 

Ü bedfordlodgehotel.co.uk 

F O R T H E O P P O R T U N I T Y T O 

G O B E H I N D T H E S C E N E S A T 

T H E H I S T O R I C H O M E O F 

HORSERACING, VISIT 

Ü DISCOVERNEWMARKET.CO.UK 


& 

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4 8 H O U R S I N 

JERSEY 

Jessica Way sets off to Jersey in search of a 

revitalising adventure, with unspoilt beaches, 

clean and pure air and a relaxed pace of life 

IF YOU ARE YOU LONGING for a weekend 

break in the British Isles, Jersey, the largest of the 

Channel Islands, has much to offer. An idyllic 

destination, with wonderful coastal hot spots, 

delicious restaurants and so many varied tourism 

attractions and activities to choose from. 

Top on our agenda – a morning rock-climbing 

session, a visit to the Jersey War Tunnels, a session 

of crazy golf and a family park run! I hope you’ll 

enjoy the highlights. 

DAY ONE 

We arrived at Jersey airport, late-afternoon, picked 

up our hire car from Hertz, and drove a 20-minute 

journey to our hotel. As far as a holiday commute 

overseas goes this was by far the smoothest 

transition from home to hotel I’ve ever experienced. 

Almost effortless. 

Our accommodation, St Brelade’s Bay Hotel, 

was situated directly on the beach front, and 

as its name suggests, looks out across the bay. 

The hotel is divine, a luxuriously refurbished 19th 

century hotel, with 74 guest rooms and suites, an 

enormous Spa and Health Club complete with two 

swimming pools - set within five acres of awardwinning 

gardens. 

Despite the size and grandeur, the character 

and ambience of the hotel still managed to offer 

a home-from-home warmth where you are made 

to feel extremely welcome, and at ease. The 

beautifully decorated hotel lobby and lounge 

areas are hugely inviting and relaxing – and the 

bedrooms are just as beautiful. We opted for a 

Sea View Balcony room with unspoiled views of 

the Atlantic Ocean. There are a variety of rooms 

including Penthouse and Bay Suites, with many 

family options. 

After checking in and marvelling over our 

wonderful view, we could see there was the most 

stunning sunset on the horizon, that had just 

started to fill the sky with beautiful red tones. 

The weather was mild – and having been tipped 

off that one of the best places on the island to 

enjoy the magnificent Jersey sunset was just a few 

minutes drive away we headed out in search of the 

La Corbière Lighthouse. 

The lighthouse is set on a tidal island out at 

sea, surrounded by dark rocks and reached by a 

causeway. At low tide, you can walk the causeway 

out to the lighthouse, past rock pools and sandy 

beaches to discover a part of the island only 

revealed at low tide. You must stay alert though – 

there’s an alarm which warns visitors when the tide 

is returning and it’s time to leave the causeway. 

We found it just in time to relax and enjoy the 

famous view before it got too dark - with the most 


magnificent silhouette by the vibrant colours of a 

sunset sky lighting up the striking white architecture 

of this iconic lighthouse – it was a great moment, 

enjoyed, in-between taking to the camera in search 

of a few memorable Instagram shots. 

Driving back along the coast to our hotel gave us 

an opportunity to get our bearings of our location 

on the island. The hotel in St Brelade’s Bay was 

on the south west corner of the island, in-between 

St Ouen’s Bay (west coast) and St Aubin’s Bay 

(south coast). And from La Corbière we just about 

drove past our meeting point for our rock-climbing 

session the following morning. It is fantastic having 

everything so close together (the island is just nine 

miles by five miles), so nowhere is far away, and 

although you do ideally need a car, it is certainly one 

of the pleasantries of island life. 

Before bedding down for the night we stopped 

at The Crab Shack, a real gem of a seafood 

restaurant nestled in St Brelade’s Bay just across 

the road from our hotel. With two other locations 

in Jersey, St Helier and Gorey, The Crab Shack is a 

perfect choice for sampling some of the fresh fish 

Jersey is known for – I opted for seafood linguine 

and it was delicious. 

DAY TWO 

Saturday morning at 9am is, for us, a family ritual 

to run parkrun (for those who don’t know this is 

a 5k free timed run, managed by volunteers in 

various locations across the UK, and now the 

globe). With a parkrun location just a few minutes’ 

drive away it was an opportunity not to be missed 

and a great way to start the new day and meet 

some of the locals. 

Continuing with the theme of sport and 

adventure next on our packed itinerary - Rock 

Climbing with John, owner of Jersey Adventures, and 

Panda, his adorable long haired Jack Russell, who 

seemed highly experienced and confident on the 

rocks (if only the same could have been said for me)! 

I think I did a pretty good job as I managed 

to get to the top of some fairly daunting cliff 

faces, although not quite as quickly as my nimble 

daughters did. They made it look easy and it was an 

unforgettable experience for the family. John told 

us about the summer-time Coasteering, a must for 

another warm day. à 


The beauty of a small island is that it's easy to 

be spontaneous. Just nine miles by five miles, 

nowhere's far away. However you spend your 

island time, you'll be creating memories that last. 


PICTURE CREDITS: © ANDY LE GRESLEY PHOTOGRAPHY/VISIT JERSEY 

On getting back to the hotel, we were told there was a hidden gem 

right on our doorstep. Across the road from the hotel is St Brelade’s 

Church. This picturesque church and graveyard with stunning views 

across St Brelades Bay dates back to Norman times. The adjacent 

Fishermen’s Chapel is thought to have been built in the 12th century, 

its ceiling is adorned with 14th and 15th century murals and has a 

beautiful stained glass window. Well worth a quick visit. 

I am so pleased we headed off to Rocco’s crazy golf course at 

St Ouen’s Bay. With competitive family in tow, there was fierce 

competition, and I knew I stood very little chance of winning, but we 

all thoroughly enjoyed the game, and I managed a hole in one. 

We headed south-east into St Helier next, the capital of the 

island, which was the longest car journey we had taken so far, but 

still only about 20 minutes. A completely different feel to the island 

we had experienced so far but the contrast still came as a bit of a 

surprise. More difficult to park, and busy – very busy. 

There’s a pretty modern harbour where land has been reclaimed, 

Hong Kong style, from the sea and modern office-blocks line the 

seafront Esplanade. You can feel the level of business and leisure 

activity within the buzzing capital, with a vibrant day, and nightlife. 

The pedestrianised, King Street/Queen Street precinct is the 

busiest area of all; we enjoyed exploring the sleepier cobbled 

sidestreets and squares which offered bars, cafes and plenty of 

stylish shops. Personal favourites included the beautiful handcrafted 

jewellery from local designers in Jersey Pearl and Aurum of 

Jersey. There was a plethora of leading international brands too like 

Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breitling, Cartier and Chopard. 

After an adventurous day it was time for a well-earned refuel. 

We headed for the uber trendy JB’s Brewhouse, a couple of rounds 

of ping pong followed by a delicious burger and session of craft beer 

tasting – fabulous! 

DAY THREE 

With limited time before heading back to the airport we made a 

decision to find out what life was like in Jersey during WWII with a 

visit to the Jersey War Tunnels and I am so pleased we did. It was 

fascinating, and I would highly recommend paying the extra £10 

for the audio guides, and wrapping up warm as it was quite cold 

once on the trail. It’s a good idea taking a trip to the toilet prior to 

your tour as there are no facilities in the tunnels themselves, and you 

could easily become lost in them for a few hours! The only toilets are 

in the adjacent Visitor Centre which is also a fabulous stopping point 

for a drink and cake at the end of the tour. 

To be honest a long-weekend is not quite long enough for 

exploring this wonderful picturesque island. We certainly still 

managed to make the most of our time, with an appetite to see 

more, a return trip is definitely on the cards. I would head next time 

to the rugged north-coast, perhaps coupled with a visit to La Mare 

Wine Estate, Tamba Park and the world renowned Jersey Zoo. u 


LATITUDE 4 9 . 1 8 5 3 7 9 

LONGITUDE - 2 . 2 0 0 4 3 0 

S P R I N G M U S T D O S : 

STARGAZING: 

Take advantage of the clear island skies and 

unpolluted air. For spectacular stargazing 

discover a favourite astronomy spot at 

Grosnez, St Ouen. The castle ruins create an 

eerie silhouette for star-studded night skies 

and clear views of the Milky Way. 

SPOTTING DOLPHINS IN THE WILD: 

Take a Jersey Seafari RIB trip to Les 

Ecrehous. The panoramic views of the sea 

and coastline will not disappoint and you 

might spot wild dolphins swimming beside 

the boat for an unforgettable experience. 

LA HOUGUE BIE: 

Discover Jersey’s Neolithic history at this 

tranquil and spiritual heritage site, it’s one 

of the ten oldest buildings in the world. 

Experience the awe-inspiring spring equinox 

when the sunrise aligns with the passageway, 

and sunlight illuminates the passage grave. 

GET ON YOUR BIKE: 

Spring is a great time to explore the island. 

Find a seaside route and enjoy the many 

sights, stopping off for food along the way. 

We chose Cyle Route One which is one of the 

most exhilarating ways to explore the west 

of the island; bayside routes and woodland 

trails lead to a panoramic finish at La 

Corbière Lighthouse. 

GETTING THERE: 

L E S S T H A N 1 H O U R A W A Y 

FROM UK AIRPORTS 

4 . 5 H O U R S B Y S E A O N 

C O N D O R F E R R I E S F R O M 

PORTSMOUTH OR POOLE 

Ü JERSEY.COM 


THE NEW 

ARRIVAL 

SLINGSBY 

GOOSEBERRY 

GIN 

Only the freshest Yorkshire gooseberries bring that unmistakable 

tangy sharpness, tempered with a sweet, fruity finish. 

facebook.com/slingsbysocial 

spiritofharrogate.co.uk 

@slingsbysocial

LIFESTYLE 

Ginaissance p54 | Mini Remastered p58 | Crafted p63 | Investor p67 

N E W L Y D I S C O V E R E D 

VIRTUO CAR HIRE 

This new mobile car rental app allows 

its users to book, locate, unlock and drive 

away in a premium, freshly valeted car, using 

only their smartphone. govirtuo.com 

THIRDHOME 

This exclusive luxury property and travel 

club has a new exchange programme, 

opening doors to stunning homes around 

the world for its members. thirdhome.com 

B O AT A F FA I R 

First home swapping, and now there's 

boat swapping, a concept that has been 

made popular following the launch of this 

boat sharing platform. boataffair.com 

à 


I R R E S I S T I B L E R I S E 

GINAISSANCE 

In recent years gin has become one of the 

great British success stories 

GIN HAS A LONG relationship with our island’s 

history. It originated in the Low Countries as 

genever, a juniper-based spirit. In the 17th 

century, soldiers returning from fighting with the 

Dutch in the Eighty Years’ War brought with them a drink 

that emboldened their allies. They called the phenomenon 

“Dutch Courage” and the people of London enthusiastically 

adopted it. 

Very soon genever stills were operating all over London. 

By the 18th century “gin” was a cheap but very dangerous 

way to get drunk. The fact that it was often laced with 

turpentine, sulphuric acid or worse only added to its 

horrendous effects. City aldermen worried that a Gin 

Craze was sweeping Britain and destroying families. In 1751 

William Hogarth created a famous etching called Gin Lane 

showing (among other gin-induced misfortunes) a baby 

falling to its death from the arms of its inebriated mother. 

In an attempt to regulate what people were imbibing, the 

Gin Act of that same year established and regulated what 

would come to be called London Dry Gin. The drink that 

today is a benchmark for sophisticated living began as a 

way to stop poor miserable people intoxicating themselves 

to death. 

In the 19th century London Dry Gin achieved a new 

role in the maintenance of the British Empire. Quinine 

was a useful chemical that could mitigate the symptoms 

of malaria but its bitter flavour was detested even when 

diluted as tonic water. By mixing quinine with gin however, 

the British found they could encourage their colonial staff to 

swallow the medication and a drink was born that became 

quintessentially British: the gin and tonic. 

Later, at the beginning of the 20th century the USA gave 

a new life to gin with the invention of the martini, an 

acceptable way of drinking the spirit, undiluted, with just 

a hint of vermouth. The writer H. L. Mencken called the 

martini "the only American invention as perfect as the 

sonnet". 

Nevertheless gin became a staid drink in the dull years 

after World War II. G&T (gin and tonic) invariably meant 

Gordon’s gin, Schweppes tonic water and an ice cube. 

Gin and It (Italian Vermouth) was an alternative, a 

popular sweetened version of the martini. And martinis 

themselves became literally diluted by the James Bondinspired 

fashion for “shaken not stirred” which just made the 

cocktail unpleasantly watery. 

The time was ripe for a gin renaissance – or “ginaissance” 

as it is often talked of these days. 

Bombay Sapphire led the way in 1987 when the British 

company IDV created a gin that was flavoured with an 

unprecedented number of botanicals: almond, lemon peel, 

liquorice, juniper berries, orris root, angelica, coriander, 

cassia, cubeb, and grains of paradise. 

Not only did this gin have a much more complex taste, 

but it was marketed in a flat-sided, pale-blue bottle bearing 

a picture of Queen Victoria. Bombay Sapphire both 

harkened back to the days of empire but also gave the 

impression – to a generation new to drinking gin – that this 

tasty, intoxicating liquor was actually blue. 

In the thirty years since Bombay Sapphire told the world 

that gin was exciting again the number of high-quality 

British distillers has shot up into triple figures. The makes 

and varieties of tonics have also greatly increased. London 

Dry Gin is now made all round the world and not all the best 

producers are British. Gin Mare from Spain and Monkey 47 

from Germany are two that not only hold their own against 

Bombay Sapphire but have excelled it in complexity. à 

EAST LONDON LIQUOR COMPANY 


Fuelled by the 

cocktail craze, 

and boasting 

a diversity and 

provenance 

story that 

taps into the 

new trend 

for artisan 

produce, 

British gin has 

seen a massive 

resurgence. 


“In 2016 – known in the trade as the Year of Gin - 40 new distilleries opened in 

Britain. It was estimated that British drinkers alone had bought 40 million bottles” 

These days 10 botanicals is quite a modest tally. Because of the 

relative speed at which gin can be produced – drinkable in a few 

months rather than many years – many Scotch whisky distillers have 

also begun producing gin (like Grants, the famous whisky distiller 

who now manufactures Hendricks). Gin certainly improves cash flow 

when you have to wait years for a return on your whisky investment. 

In 2016 – known in the trade as the Year of Gin - 40 new 

distilleries opened in Britain. It was estimated that British drinkers 

alone had bought 40 million bottles. That’s enough to have made 

28 gin and tonics for every adult member of the British population, 

never mind the inexorable rise of the export market. 

Recent years have also seen the rise of the artisanal distiller 

producing relatively small batches of high-quality gin in premises in 

which they welcome visitors, offering distillery tours, gin history and 

masterclasses. Here's our choice of some of the best you can visit in 

celebration of this quintessentially British spirit: 

LONDON 

City of London Distillery 

In a basement by St Bride’s Church lurks the only distillery producing 

London Dry Gin within the City of London. Two German stills, 

Clarissa and Jennifer (the Fat Ladies) can be seen at work and the 

company’s four plain gins in their distinctive bottles (modelled on 

the dome of St Paul’s Cathedral) can be bought over the counter. 

The company’s Square Mile Gin is super fresh, dry and yet fruity 

with hints of lemon balm. Prices from £35pp. 22-24 Bride Lane, 

London EC4Y 8DT, 020 7936 3636, cityoflondondistillery.com 

The Ginstitute 

Head along to the Portobello Star for a lesson in the history and 

production of gin and enjoy a tutored tasting before crafting your 

own gin using a completely unique recipe exactly to your tastes. 

Masterclass prices from £60pp/Experiences £120pp. 186 Portobello 

Road, London, W11 1LA, 020 3034 2234, theginstitute.com 

Beefeater Gin Distillery 

Beefeater is the only historic dry gin to be distilled in London today. 

The distillery tour tells the history of the production of gin in London 

with extraordinary stories. The experience culminates with a 

complimentary cocktail - the classic Beefeater Gin and Tonic. Prices 

from £15pp, or £45pp for a VIP experience. 20 Montford Place, 

London, SE11 5DE, 020 7587 0034, beefeaterdistillery.com 

SOUTH ENGLAND 

TOAD (The Oxford Artisanal Distillery) 

TOAD has an unusually intensive production even by British 

artisanal standards. It produces its own neat alcohol for the stills 

using grains sourced by an archaeo-botanist who has recreated 

medieval crops in fields within Oxfordshire. The two stills, Nautilus 

and Nemo, were designed by the master distiller himself and were 

welded together by a firm that builds steam-powered railway 

engines. An exceptionally good value gin given how much handcrafting 

goes into the process. Hints of aromatic cardamom, 

toasted peppercorns and orange. Prices from £38.76pp. 

The Old Depot, Cheney Lane, Oxford OX3 7QJ, 01865 767918, 

spiritoftoad.com 

Silent Pool Distillers 

Silent Pool Distillery is located alongside a large pond in the Surrey 

countryside that’s known as Silent Pool. The distillery itself is in an 

unremarkable agricultural building, but the Silent Pool’s distinctive 

turquoise and copper-coloured bottles more than make up for any 

visual paucity in the location. A complex floral gin featuring 24 

botanicals including chamomile, rose, elderflower, Kaffir lime leaf, 

pear, bergamot and local honey. Prices from £39.50pp. Shere Rd, 

Albury, Guildford GU5 9BW, 01483 229136, silentpooldistillers.com 

Bombay Sapphire Distillery 

A Mecca for gin lovers, Laverstoke Mill was painstakingly renovated 

and opened as a state-of-the-art distillery by Bombay Sapphire in 

September 2014, as the gin’s first permanent UK home. Choose 

from self-discovery tours, hosted tours and taking a gin cocktail 

masterclass. Prices from £16pp (tickets must be bought in advance). 

Laverstoke Mill, London Road, Laverstoke, Whitchurch, Hampshire 

RG28 7NR, 01256 890090, distillery.bombaysapphire.com 

Salcombe Gin, Devon 

Though it only opened in summer of 2016, its illustrious location and 

impressively sleek and modern design, in the heart of the coastal town 

of Salcombe, has put this purpose-built distillery firmly on the map for 

all budding gin enthusiasts. Complete with tasting bar and gin school 

where visitors can craft their own unique gin - distilled using pure 

Dartmoor water - and take it home. Gin School prices from £100pp. 

The Boathouse, 28 Island Street, Salcombe, Devon TQ8 8DP, 

01548 288 180, salcombegin.com 


LAVERSTOKE COCKTAIL 

NORTH ENGLAND 

Edinburgh Gin Distillery 

Learn how gin is distilled in the Edinburgh Distillery’s two stills, 

curiously named Flora and Caledonia in a 45-minute discovery tour 

or 75-minute “Connoisseur Tour”, or join a three-hour gin-making 

class and become your own distiller. And watch this space, as 

plans have been made for a multi-million pound third distillery in 

Edinburgh city centre, large enough to welcome 100,000 visitors 

through its doors each year. Prices from £10pp-£100pp depending 

on the experience. Distillery & Visitor Centre, Westend, 1A Rutland 

Place, Edinburgh, EH1 2AD/The Biscuit Factory Distillery, Leith, 4-6 

Anderson Place, Edinburgh EH6 5NP, edinburghgindistillery.co.uk 

Gin Journey 

If you would prefer to have your own Gin Guardian taking you on a 

tour of your chosen city’s finest gin endeavours, then Gin Journey is 

a great option. Guests are whisked around by gin carriage to world 

class cocktails bars and era-defining distilleries in Manchester, 

Liverpool, Leeds and London. The chauffeur-driven tours of each 

city’s finest cocktail bars are educational and fun — participants 

learn about the history of gin and its present-day incarnations, as well 

as taste cocktails along the way. Prices from £50pp, ginjourney.com 

Spirit of Harrogate – home of Slingsby Gin 

The masterminds behind Yorkshire’s finest award-winning Gin 

brand – Slingsby have launched an exciting new gin experience 

where you not only learn about which type of gin you should choose 

to suit your palate, you also have the opportunity to make your own 

bespoke bottle of gin from scratch! As pretty as gin bottles might 

be, it’s important to know whether the gin inside, is to your personal 

taste and preference, and this new experience demystifies the 

gin category and allows guests to explore the core gin categories 

and profiles from Juniper, Citrus, Spice, Floral, Herbal and Fruit 

flavours. Taste a variety of gins, pick your own botanicals, distil on 

your very own traditional mini copper still and bottle with your own 

personalised label. Prices from £90pp, gift vouchers available. 5-7 

Montpellier Parade, Harrogate, North Yorkshire, 

HG1 2TJ, 01423 541279, spiritofharrogate.co.uk/experiences 

SPIRIT OF HARROGATE 

BARS TO DRINK GIN 

510 Below, London 

This subterranean bar, just five minutes’ walk from Fulham 

Broadway, stocks 40 different gins and hosts gin tasting evenings. 

510 Fulham Road, SW6 5NJ, 510below.com 

The Merchant House, London 

Sip gin from a selection of more than 300 while listening to live 

jazz, or join a gin masterclass that includes a nip of a vintage gin 

from the 1950s. 13 Well Court, off Bow Lane, EC4M 9DN, 

merchanthouselondon.com 

The Old Bell Inn, Lancashire 

Proprietor Philip Whiteman holds a Guinness World Record for 

stocking the most gins on a commercial premises - 600 from all 

over the world at the last count. A gin masterclass is held on the 

last Thursday of every month. Huddersfield Road, Saddleworth 

OL3 5EG, theoldbellinn.co.uk 

The Gin Parlour (Gorilla), Manchester 

On the mezzanine level of Manchester’s Gorilla, this bar is 

dedicated to gin and stocked with small batch, hand-crafted 

distillations — including its home-produced buttered gin and 

homemade tonic syrups. A wide cocktail list. 54-56 Whitworth 

Street, M1 5WW, thisisgorilla.com 

The Canary Gin Bar, Bath 

Two floors of gin with a martini bar on the first floor in the city 

where Jane Austen penned her most famous books. More than 250 

bottles to choose from but closed on Sundays. 2/3 Queen Street, 

BA1 1HE, thebathgincompany.co.uk 

Heads and Tales, Edinburgh 

Stocks around 70 gins, 35-40 of which are from the UK. 1a 

Rutland Place, EH1 2AD, headsandtalesbar.com 

East London Liquor Company Bar, London 

Offering a comprehensive list of cocktails, not only featuring their 

own spirits but also acknowledging the rich heritage of spirits 

production around the world. Distillery and brewery tours are also 

available. Unit GF1, Bow Wharf, 221 Grove Road, London, E3 

5SN, eastlondonliquorcompany.com 



S M A L L , B U T P E R F E C T L Y F O R M E D 

MINI REMASTERED 

This year the iconic Mini celebrates its 60th year in 

production. Emma Johnson looks back at its 

illustrious history and one of its newest and most 

beautiful iterations, the Mini Remastered, and meets 

the skilled experts behind it, David Brown Automotive 

Words | Emma Johnson 

WHAT GOES THROUGH your mind when you start looking at remastering one 

of the most iconic cars of the last century? How do you decide to pay homage 

to the considerable craft and skill put into designing and creating something 

that is beloved by so many? Where do you start? 

You start, says David Brown, with love. “Mini Remastered was born out of a love for the 

styling of the classic Mini,” says Brown, founder of David Brown Automotive – a British car 

manufacturing company renowned for combining precision engineering with a flair for retro, 

classic design. “We wanted to combine that style with what we are so good at - engineering, 

handcraftsmanship and luxury.” 

Founded in 2013, out of a love of retro styling and modern engineering, David Brown 

Automotive’s first model to launch was the Speedback GT - a 1960's inspired grand tourer. A 

lookalike Aston Martin DB5, the Speedback is a beautiful car, offering modern performance 

and convenience, alongside a beautifully, hand-rolled aluminium body and handcrafted 

interior. It was launched in 2014 to considerable critical acclaim. “It’s handcrafted throughout 

in the best materials a man can get, looking a little like a throwback from a distant age but 

feeling a lot like a premium cabin that’s bang up to date…it has a standard of finish and detail 

that puts it in the highest echelons of the modern car market,” said Evening Standard motoring 

editor John Calne. 

Each car takes over 8,000 man hours and eight months to make, meaning less than 20 

have been sold so far, and David Brown only intends 100 ever to be made. “We are really 

pleased with the reception we got to the model,” says Brown. “But we are only able to create 

them in very small, exclusive numbers, so we wanted our second model to be offered in much 

larger, albeit still very small, quantities.” 

Enter Mini Remastered, with all the features a classic Mini would, or should, have if it were 

to have been built in the modern day, but with the added bonus of cleaner lines and a à 


smoother silhouette - thanks to a de-seamed 

body, a hand-painted finish and an interior 

that offers considerable luxury, by way of 

knurled aluminium switchgear, handcrafted 

leathers and premium fabrics and 

conveniences, such as power steering, push 

button start/stop, USB charging and much 

more. “Our inspiration came from a desire 

to add modern functionality and reliability, 

alongside luxury, into what is an iconic and 

much-loved design from the 1960's,” says 

Brown, recalling the Mini’s inaugural decade 

when it completely revolutionised the small 

car concept and changed modern motoring 

for good. 

60 BritishTravelJournal.com 

Created by Sir Alec Issigonis for the British 

Motor Corporation in 1959, the Mini started 

out life as the Austin Mini Minor, before 

becoming the Austin Mini, and then finally 

simply, the Mini. It was celebrated because 

its compact features and front-wheel drive 

mechanism made it attractive to a host of 

drivers, and it soon became the best-selling 

British car in history. The Mini was produced 

in various factories over the years before it 

eventually ended up under BMW in 2000. 

As the 21st century dawned, BMW sought to 

reimagine the Mini, and over the following 

decade the sportier Mini Cooper was 

launched, followed by the five door, fourwheel 

drive Countryman in 2010. 

In designing their Mini Remastered, 

David Brown Automotive were clear that 

this version had to both echo and pay 

homage to its roots, but also to be reflective 

of its contemporary origins. “We asked 

ourselves what they would have done 

in the 1950's and 1960's had they had 

the technology and skills to do what we 

were proposing. We then combined those 

responses along with our brand's ethos of the 

finest handcraftsmanship, beautiful British 

materials and luxurious and exclusive finishes 

to create what we think is a true re-imagined 

icon that meets the demands of modern life.” 

The Mini Remastered, available in an 

enviable array of bespoke options, has also 

been created in two limited editions: ‘Inspired

“For the British people, it was a car of the people and for other markets it's an 

admired and much-loved British icon,” says Brown.” 

by Monte Carlo’ – a vintage competition rally 

style which offers a higher level of exclusivity, 

with beluga and perforated poppy leathers, 

dark chromed interior details and an 

exclusive metallic exterior paint finish – and 

‘Inspired by Café Racers’ which features a 

vintage biker style, signature painted twin 

fender stripes, brogue leather bonnet straps 

and twin driving lights. 

“As a company, we do 'bespoke' really 

well, our customers truly can have whatever 

they please, so every week there are really 

exciting configurations being worked on,” 

says Brown. 

Working on such an iconic car could be 

considered something of a risky move - the 

British have very much taken the Mini to its 

heart, and it stands as a very strong emblem 

of national identity. But in David Brown’s 

careful, considered and loving hands, the 

Mini Remastered has become a striking, 

memorable and evocative piece of history, 

and modernity. “For the British people, it was 

a car of the people and for other markets it's 

an admired and much-loved British icon,” 

says Brown. “So many people have stories 

and memories of classic Minis, it brings a real 

feeling of nostalgia and is emotive in a way 

that a lot of cars available today never could 

be,” he adds u 

S P E C I A L E D I T I O N 

Celebrating 60 years of the MINI 

brand, the special edition model is 

finished in British Racing Green, 

(limited to 500), priced £29,990. 


OVER 40 

AREAS AND 

COUNTIES 

AVAILABLE 

FREE 

DELIVERY 

ANYWHERE 

IN THE UK 

.CO.UK 

+44 (0)7900 496465 INFO@FADEDGRANDEUR.CO.UK

CRAFTED 

A M A R K O F T I M E 


Bronze Medallist of the British Horological Institute, the subject of a Netflix film and honoured in 2018 with 

an OBE, no-one has done more for British watchmaking than Roger W Smith. Emma Johnson meets him à 


Watchmaking itself is an ultimately British 

endeavour. Over 75 per cent of the mechanical 

innovations in any watch are British inventions 

by some of the great British watchmakers of 

the 17th and 18th centuries 

JUST BEFORE CHRISTMAS last year, a quiet, 

unassuming man walked into Buckingham Palace 

and stood proudly in front of Prince Charles to 

receive an OBE for Services to British 

Watchmaking. Later that day, via social media, 

he told people that, rather than it being a culmination 

of a life’s work, this great honour merely reminded him 

how much more there was to do. 

“It’s now 30 years since I first picked up a filing tool 

and embarked on making a handmade pocket watch,” 

wrote Roger W Smith. “I had no idea that it would lead 

to so many other steps towards the rebirth of British 

watchmaking. However, my work is not done and there 

are many more goals for me to achieve. The honour 

of this OBE for Services to British Watchmaking is 

wonderful recognition of all that has been achieved 

to date – but your comments have reminded me 

just how important the appreciation and support of 

friends from all over the world is to me.” This response 

is entirely typical of a man who has dedicated his 

life to perfecting and protecting the intricate craft of 

watchmaking, and in doing so, changed the face of the 

British horological landscape forever. 

Roger W Smith entered the Manchester College 

of Horology aged just 16 years old. A year later, a 

visit from watchmaker George Daniels to show his 

iconic Space Traveller pocket-watch was to change 

everything. Daniels was a British horologist, based in 

the Isle of Man, whose watches took over 2,500 hours 

to make and sold for hundreds of thousands of pounds 

– he made just 37 watches in his entire lifetime. 

Smith was so inspired by Daniels’ visit that he made 

it his life’s mission to study and replicate Daniels’ work. 

“We measure time, but we’re defined by its moments,” 

says Smith. “A visit by George Daniels…was my 

moment. Suddenly, my life’s purpose was crystal clear.” 

“I make no 

apology for 

being a purist. 

Ours is the 

purest of 

mechanical 

arts. Our 

design 

process is 

a continual 

quest for 

optimum 

performance” 

Roger 

W Smith 

Smith embarked on a seven-year journey to learn 

The Daniels Method of watchmaking, which included 

mastering 34 different, and incredibly complex, 

techniques and skills. After successfully making a 

watch to Daniels’ exacting standards – a process which 

took nearly eight years – Smith was invited to move 

to the Isle of Man and work with George Daniels for 

a further three years, designing and creating watches 

with him, before establishing the Roger W Smith studio 

in 2001. 

The work Daniels and Smith did together was 

to become so important to the history of British 

watchmaking that a documentary made on their 

relationship, entitled, The Watchmaker’s Apprentice, 

gained the attention of Netflix, who bought the feature 

in 2015. The documentary, in which Smith shared some 

of his early experiences of working with Daniels, is still 

available to buy through Amazon. 

Today, Smith’s studio and home is still in the Isle 

of Man and he retains a deep connection with both 

the place and his time with Daniels. “The Isle of Man 

has given us a beautiful and life-affirming place 

to be horologists. This tranquil setting assures few 

distractions and complete focus. I am also proud to 

display the Isle of Man’s unique ‘triskelion’ symbol on 

each of our watches as a way of identifying us with 

the Island. I gather this harks back to an ancient sunsymbol 

and so, in a way, it also reflects our earliest 

observations of the passing of time.” 

Working in his peaceful studio, Smith and his 

team create just ten watches a year – made to Smith’s 

exacting designs. These series 1,2,3 and 4, are 

designed to reflect Smith’s journey in watchmaking, as 

well as an open dial version, which puts the functional 

art of the watches front and centre, and several limited 

edition or anniversary designs, each with their own 

PICTURE CREDITS: © SIMON PARK PHOTOGRAPHY 


CRAFTED 

Pictured Left-Right: 

Watchmaker Roger W Smith 

in his studio, Isle of Man; 

Watchmaker George Daniels; 

The Watchmaker 's Apprentice 

Netflix documentary 

distinct qualities, including the GREAT Britain watch, one of his 

most technically-advanced watches to date. All of his watches 

are still the only truly handmade British watches in production. 

And, while the techniques used to make these watches are 

traditional at their core, the design and the functionality of the 

watches is anything but. Smith’s ethos is all about pushing the 

performance boundaries of mechanical timekeeping. “When 

you talk about ‘handmade’ there is a tendency to think about 

watchmaking purely as craft,” he says. “This couldn’t be 

further from the reality of our pieces, and our design process is 

a continual quest for optimum performance.” Working in this 

way has lead to the development of the most advanced singlewheel 

co-axial escapement in modern horology. Smith takes 

great pride in the fact that his British-designed mechanisms 

now completely outperform any factory-made mechanical 

watch in everything from efficiency and longevity to service 

intervals and, most importantly, timekeeping. 

For Smith, though - as he reflected on receiving his 

OBE - there is always more to do. Mechanical research and 

development, and the overall design of his range of watches 

is ongoing; and with each watch taking nearly two years to 

create - due to the absolutely uncompromising approach he 

takes to the Daniels Method - there is always a level of striving 

for perfection. “I make no apology for being a purist. Ours is 

the purest of mechanical arts,” he says. 

And while, over time, Smith begins to share his considerable 

expertise with his small team of watchmakers, there is no 

denying that, due to his patient and skilled instruction, and 

the years of experience and technique he has acquired, each 

and every watch is still his own, making them a considerable, 

and very valuable, rarity. “For me, still being a watchmaker 

and being able to stick to my guns, thanks to support of our 

collectors, is ultimately what gives me greatest pride.”u 

B U Y T H E N E T F L I X D O C U M E N T A R Y 

The Watchmaker's Apprentice: Collector's Edition, in which 

Smith shared some of his early experiences of working with 

Daniels (pictured above) is available on Amazon, priced 

around £19.amazon.co.uk 


Do sEThiG 

MigT 

A fantastic series of fully supported, one-day hiking marathons all 

over the UK. Every Mighty Hike is easily accessible and will take 

you to some of the most beautiful and unspoiled parts of our country. 

Bring your family, bring your friends and take a step forward for people 

living with cancer. 

Find out more and sign up at 

macmillan.org.uk/mightyhikes 

Macmillan Cancer Support, registered charity in England and 

Wales (261017), Scotland (SC039907) and the Isle of Man (604). 

Also operating in Northern Ireland.

INVESTOR 

F I R S T E D I T I O N 


Whether for personal enjoyment or as a financial hobby, with prices of rare books rising by 

nearly nine per cent year on year, investing in books, to sell, or to keep as a family heirloom, can 

prove lucrative. But the world of books is not quite as simple as plain old buying and selling. à 


F I R S T F O L I O WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE'S COMEDIES, HISTORIES, & 

T R A G E D I E S 1 6 2 3 I S C O N S I D E R E D O N E O F T H E M O S T I N F L U E N T I A L 

BOOKS EVER PUBLISHED IN THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE. 

“Books on the Rare Book Index include 

the likes of Tolkein’s Lord of the Rings, T.S. 

Eliot’s The Wasteland, Ian Fleming’s Casino 

Royale, James Joyce’s Ulysses and Ernest 

Hemingway’s In Our Time. ” 

IN NEW YORK, just before Christmas last year, a first edition of a book 

about stock markets sold for a staggering $300,000. Confusion of 

Confusions, written by José Penso de la Vega, was published in 1688 in 

Spanish and is an account of the workings of the Amsterdam stock 

exchange. A relatively dry subject, all told. But what makes this book so 

special is that it was one of only ten first edition copies of the historically 

significant text to have survived. The last time a first edition of this book 

sold was over 30 years ago in London, for just £16,500 – meaning this 

latest sale represents a 900 per cent increase. 

And while this is a pretty unprecedented level of growth on a piece of 

literature, it does show how lucrative investing in books can be. However, 

as any expert will tell you, there are some key factors at play for anyone 

wanting to put their money where the words are. If you want to start 

buying and selling books, there are a few vital things to bear in mind – 

not least the rarity of a book, its condition and its USP. 

GOOD CONDITION 

The state of any book you are buying or selling is vital – and the 

difference in value between a battered copy and a pristine first edition 

can reach into the thousands. While ordinary wear and tear is to be 

expected, the better condition a book is in, the more it will fetch. “Even 

colours faded by sunlight can hugely affect the value of a first edition,” 

explains Pom Harrington, owner of Peter Harrington Rare Books. When 

buying books you’re looking for all the pages, minimal dog ears and 

turned down corners, no damage to the cover, no dents or discolouration 

from age or sunlight and no margin pen marks or annotations. 

But more on that later. When it comes to condition, the most 

important thing, especially with books from the last couple of hundred 

years, are dust jackets. Because they are often seen by readers are 

surplus to requirements and taken off and thrown away, they have 

become increasingly rare. 

They also protect the book’s hardcover underneath from signs 

of aging, and often come in very limited editions – the hard copy 

underneath stays the same, but over the years the dust jacket has 

changed and been redesigned. Anyone in the know will tell you that the 

difference between a book with and without a dustjacket can be as much 

as £70,000. 

A RARE GEM 

There is, of course a caveat to this. While condition is all-important, the 

rarer a book is, the less important condition becomes. “You can’t expect 

a 16th century book to be in the same condition as a 20th century book,” 

says Matthew Haley, head of books and manuscripts at Bonhams. “So, 

essentially, look for things that make a copy exceptional - the condition 

of the dust-jacket if it’s a modern book, a deluxe binding, signs of 

previous ownership by a noted collector.” 

In most cases, rare books are also first editions. These are usually 

printed in very small print runs – 250 or 500 copies – before they 

became bestsellers, and, although not intended as such, they are in 

effect limited editions. Following this, the age of a book can also have 

a huge impact on it, especially as the older a book gets, the harder it 

is to find. In fact, some books are so rare they have become the veritable 

holy grail of the book world. “The 1623 Shakespeare First Folio should 

be the cornerstone of any world-class book collection,” says Matthew 

Haley. When Shakespeare’s First Folio appears in auctions – which 

happens almost never - a good condition copy can fetch millions of 

pounds. 

Keith Heddle, managing director of investments at Stanley Gibbons 

which specialises in buying and selling stamps, coins, books and 

manuscripts, agrees, calling this edition, “the literary equivalent of a 

Lafite 1952”. With books, rarity is so important, that in 2015 Stanley 

Gibbons launched the Rare Book Index – a collection of 30 of the most 

desirable books for investors and collectors, which looks at their growth 

over the past 20 years, as well as comparing them with other assets. 

When matched against gold, property and the FTSE 100 RTI, books 

are the only asset that has continually risen in value since 1995. Books 

on the Rare Book Index include the likes of Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings, T.S. 

Eliot’s The Wasteland, Ian Fleming’s Casino Royale, James Joyce’s Ulysses and 

Ernest Hemingway’s In Our Time. 


ASK THE EXPERT 

THE USP 

Other highly sought-after editions 

include the 1865 Alice in Wonderland, of 

which there are only 22 known copies, 

and only five in private hands, as well 

as numerous copies of books inscribed 

by one author to another - Nabokov’s 

Lolita inscribed to Graham Greene, 

Orwell’s Animal Farm inscribed to 

Anthony Powell; Joyce’s Ulysses given to 

his wife Nora. 

These little details are what 

makes a book really desirable. Other 

factors that also have this affect, 

can include books being made into 

films, anniversaries of author births 

and deaths, or original publication 

dates, or the author winning or being 

shortlisted for a book prize. “How 

important an author is contextually 

to the world at the time can have 

also have a huge impact,” says Pom 

Harrington. “Films based on the works 

of authors, or on their own lives, can 

renew interest in certain books, for 

instance. J.K. Rowling and Tolkien have 

both benefitted considerably from the 

‘Hollywood effect.” 

It’s also worth considering the 

little details that set one book apart 

from another. Things like interesting 

illustrations done by a renowned artist, 

a first use of colour, a foreword from 

a well-known figure, or a dedication 

by the author can be all-important. 

As can the provenance of a book 

- did it belong to someone special, 

was it relevant to their work, did 

it accompany them on a famous 

expedition, was it part of a valued 

collection? A book belonging to an 

American president, for instance, 

can make a book worth upwards of 

$80,000. 

Crucially though, if you are thinking 

about entering the world of book 

investment, make sure you follow the 

advice of experts and get into it with 

a passion for, and love of, books. 

“Everyone has a book inside them,” 

says Heddle. “Even if it was something 

you read as a child or studied at 

school. Just one book is enough. They 

resonate with everybody.” u 

N E X T I S S U E W E T A K E A L O O K 

A T M O D E R N B R I T I S H A R T . I F 

Y O U H A V E A Q U E S T I O N F O R 

OUR EXPERT PLEASE EMAIL 

Ü words@britishtraveljournal.com 

M A R K W I L T S H I R E , 

A S S O C I A T E S P E C I A L I S T , 

B O O K S A N D M A N U S C R I P T S , 

CHRISTIE’S LONDON 

The market for rare books is exciting, 

evolving and entirely free of white gloves.... 

here’s how you can join in. 

î FIND WHERE YOUR PASSION LIES 

Attend a free auction preview. Handle 

the books. Pick out the signs of previous 

ownership in a book from the 15th century. 

See how maps have tracked shifting borders 

across the centuries. Work out what appeals 

to you. It will be an investment you can enjoy 

before it moves on to somebody who loves it 

as much as you do. 

î SEEK OUT A SPECIALIST WHO 

S H A R E S Y O U R I N T E R E S T S A N D 

HEED THEIR ADVICE 

We can point you towards rare and important 

books in your area of interest, and advise 

what distinguishes one copy from another. 

As you begin to expand your collection, your 

specialist is your friend and guide. 

î NEVER COMPROMISE ON QUALITY 

The value of a book depends on several 

factors. How rare is it? Is it complete? 

What’s the condition like? Who has owned 

it previously? Is it a first edition? With these 

factors in mind, focus on acquiring the best 

obtainable copies within your budget. 

DON'T MISS 

5 June Christie's upcoming auction Beyond 

the Horizon - The Mopelia Collection of 

Fine Atlases and Travel Books in London. 

For more information visit christies.com 


The The Great British Escape 

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connoisseur 

In The Stars p72 | Victuals p79 | Escape to Nature p80 

Farmer, Butcher, Chef p82 | Take time out for you p85 | Middlethorpe Hall p83 

T H E L A K E D I S T R I C T 

HRiSHi, Gilpin Hotel 

Enjoy Afternoon Tea for Two at this 

Michelin Starred restaurant, priced 

£45 or with Champagne £77 

à 


T H E H O L Y G R A I L 

IN THE STARS 

The snug villages and bottle-green fells of Lancashire, Cumbria and 

Yorkshire have created a holy trinity of gastronomy and a veritable 

constellation of Michelin stars just waiting to be explored 

Words | Chantal Borciani 

HISTORICALLY, THE PEAKS, dales and shimmering 

lakes of the north west have been the muse of artists, 

poets, writers and ramblers but now these bewilderingly 

beautiful regions boast some of Britain’s best restaurants 

and producers. Their internationally revered chefs and exquisite 

homegrown talent haven’t gone unnoticed, of course; Michelin 

has bestowed its coveted stars in all three counties and reviews 

have been glowing. The region’s top dining rooms have even been 

immortalised in BBC 1’s The Trip, which saw Steve Coogan and Rob 

Brydon tour the north west’s finest restaurants in satirical splendour. 


Whether your budget is 

Michelin or modest, this 

corner of England is 

brimming with local 

delicacies and culinary 

creations fit for a gourmet 

road trip like no other… 

LANCASHIRE HOTSPOTS 

The north is often considered the pulsating heartland of 

England. Here, you can chart the industrial – and musical 

– revolutions in vibrant, earthy cities such as Manchester, 

Leeds and Liverpool before striking out to the vast 

moorlands and quaint villages to the north. 

Two Michelin-star Moor Hall in Aughton, boasts 

one of Lancashire’s most notable dining rooms and is a 

stone’s throw from Merseyside. Opened in 2017 following 

a complete renovation of the 16th century manor house, 

chef patron Mark Birchall combines local produce with 

modern techniques. Executive chef for nine years at 

world-renowned L’Enclume, which lies just up the road 

in the Lake District, it’s little surprise Mark has achieved 

such acclaim. While history imbues its design – cutlery 

rests on knife blocks made from medieval timber pegs 

discovered on the site – the seasons rule the kitchen 

pass; a working garden grows herbs and vegetables 

year-round, all meat is locally sourced where possible, 

and Moor Hall’s cheese room houses a vast selection of 

British and Irish varieties. à 


YORKSHIRE’S FINEST 

North east of Lancashire, the vast watercolour 

vistas of the Yorkshire Dales beckon. This is Bronte 

country; epic, moody and bewilderingly beautiful in 

equal measure, where mounding hillsides give way to 

wooded meadows and icy waterfalls. 

After a hearty hike around Aysgarth Falls, take the 

weight off at Mill Race tea shop, where great hunks 

of homemade cake can be enjoyed near the rushing 

waters. The cosy tea room occupies Yore Mill, which 

was originally built in 1784, and overlooks the river by 

the Upper Falls. 

If a more formal afternoon tea is preferred, familyrun 

Yorebridge House serves scrumptious homemade 

delicacies in its cosy lounges and is a stone’s throw 

from Wensleydale’s famous creamery. Alongside its 

individually styled, uber-romantic rooms, Yorebridge 

has also opened the only Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle 

Tasting Room in the UK, perfect for private dinners 

and champagne tastings. 

It’s a short drive – or a more challenging cycle – to 

the historic town of Sedbergh at the foot of the mighty 

Howgill Fells. Once described by fell walker and 

author Alfred Wainwright MBE “like velvet curtains 

in sunlight and like silken drapes at sunset”, the fells 

dwarf the pretty town and are a magnet for walkers. 

The Black Bull, a recently renovated 17th century 

coaching inn, has 18 stylish rooms – each named after 

a local fell – while its restaurant is run by owner Nina 

Matsunaga and serves nose-to-tail dishes infused with 

her Japanese heritage. 

Further south, on the border between Lancashire 

and Yorkshire, 350-year-old Hipping Hall holds 

a coveted Michelin star and is one of the The Trip’s 

famed alumni. Providing a perfect last stop before 

venturing into the UNESCO-listed Lake District, 

Hipping nestles at the foot of Gragareth, Lancashire’s 

highest peak. The restaurant’s devotion to local 

produce and seasonal dishes is astonishingly good, 

with head chef Oli Martin’s tasting menus almost 

solely championing produce from the hall’s three 

surrounding counties: Lancashire, Yorkshire and 

Cumbria. The fluffy homemade morning crumpets 

are enough to warrant your stay alone. Local through 

and through; even the walls of the 15th century dining 

room are painted with bespoke pigments created by 

local artists using minerals from within 15 miles of the 

property. 


TOP OF THE LAKES 

The Lake District’s reputation as a 

gastronomic hub is hardly surprising, 

given its ingrained farming culture, 

bountiful fresh produce and artisanal 

producers. On the edge of the national 

park and with a list of ‘top restaurant’ 

awards that could fill Coniston Water, 

L’Enclume in the pretty village of Cartmel 

is one of the world’s most revered 

restaurants. The two Michelin star 

establishment, which also starred in The 

Trip, is run by Simon Rogan who serves 

a 20-course tasting menu, with much of 

the produce grown in the 12-acre farm 

nearby. One Michelin-star Rogan & Co, 

its more relaxed sibling restaurant, is one 

road away and continues the celebration 

of Cumbrian ingredients. The charming 

village is also the home of the sticky 

toffee pudding – head to the Village 

Shop for a pudding as good as it sounds. 

Or for more savoury tastes, head for the 

micro brewery and Cartmel Cheeses. à 


Near the shimmering waters of Lake Windermere, Gilpin 

Hotel & Lake House’s Michelin starred HRiSHi serves Lake 

District and British produce with a difference, an Asian twist 

and flair for creativity. After dinner, guests can sink into 

cedarwood hot tubs, sleep in self-contained spa lodges, or 

plump for the Lake House where six luxury suites enjoy 100 

private acres, including a lake, boat-house, hot tubs, pool 

and jetty spa. 

Hug Windermere’s winding waterside road and head 

north to the picturesque village of Grasmere where more 


scenic trails crisscross the sage and auburn-flecked fells 

and independent cafés pleasing hungry hikers. Kick 

off the walking boots at Lake View Country House, a 

boutique B&B overlooking restful Grasmere Lake. The 

B&B has private access to the lake and owners Paul 

and Beth Abbott have recently opened their Grasmere 

Brewery, housed in the farm buildings a stone’s throw 

from the water’s edge. The Good Sport gastro pub just 

along the lane serves as the brewery’s taproom where 

visitors can sample the ales and chat with Paul about his 

unique brewing process. 

A great base to explore the northern reaches, 

Lodore Falls sits in 40 tranquil acres on the shores of 

Derwentwater. The hotel’s lake view dining room is 

popular for Sunday lunch and the new spa bedrooms 

offer total relaxation teamed with spectacular views 

across Derwentwater and the Catbells Mountain range. 

Replete and relaxed, whether you're a keen rambler, 

cyclist or simply a fanatical foodie, the north west is a 

pick n’ mix trail of chocolate-box villages, bewitching 

landscapes and awesome scenery with no wrong turns. u 


CarltonCourtMayfair 

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living spaces, and 24 hour security, offering you peace of mind throughout the duration 

of your stay. Our selection of newly furnished 1-3 bedroom apartments, and 5 bedroom 

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and Bond Street. Excellent value - enjoy all this from a better price than a small hotel room! 

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VICTUALS 

W H A T ' S N E W 

Restaurants | Hotels | Chefs | Spas 

VIVI BAR 

VIVI is a lively and bustling, all-day Brasserie 

serving delicious British favourites. Set in the 

heart of London’s iconic Centre Point redevelopment 

and square. vivirestaurant.co.uk. 

NEW GLASS ROOM REINVENTS DINING ON THE THAMES 

Get a whole new perspective on the city and set sail with Bateaux London’s brand new boat, 

Glass Room, with chic yet contemporary nautical-themed stylish interiors from Tom Dixon, 

and an impressive all-glass structure (bateauxlondon.com). Hop aboard at Embankment 

Pier and sail along the Thames while enjoying fine British cuisine, such as Severn and 

Wye smoked salmon with celeriac remoulade, listening to live music, with uninterrupted, 

unparalleled views of London’s most recognisable structures, from the London Eye to the 

Tower of London and Houses of Parliament. Plus, don’t miss the small balcony towards the 

front of the boat which allows for a more intimate view, or a romantic moment as you sail. 

BRASSERIE OF LIGHT 

SELFRIDGES 

Contemporary, artistic and elegant, and 

we love the 24ft crystal encrusted Pegasus 

centrepiece created especially by Damien 

Hirst, his largest scale artwork in London. 

SOUTH LODGE SPA 

Set into the natural contours of the land, 

head down to this 5-star hotel in Sussex 

to visit the new state-of-the-art spa, 

and hydrotherapy pools. exclusive.co.uk 

THE BEDFORD 

First built in 1931 located in Balham, this magnificent 

venue has recently undergone a multi-million 

pound refurbishment to create an unrivalled pub, 

club and restaurant, with 15 boutique bedrooms. 

Ü thebedford.com 

BELMOND CADOGAN 

Adam Handling is proud Chef Patron of the 

Adam Handling Chelsea restaurant at the new 

Belmond Cadogan Hotel in Chelsea, serving 

‘Best of British’ cuisine with modern flair. 

Ü cadogan.co.uk 


of the best 

ESCAPE TO 

10NATURE 

Connect with the countryside, 

staying overnight in a cosy log 

cabin or trendy treehouse 

COTSWOLDS Little Lodge at Dryhill Think countryside, quintessentially English 

villages with honey-coloured golden stone and rolling hills, and the Cotswolds are likely to come to 

mind. This romantic retreat has it all. Priced from £1040 per week dryhill.co.uk/little-lodge 

FERMANAGH Finn Lough (Northern 

Ireland) The perfect escape to get back to 

nature, recharge, refocus and remember life's 

simple pleasures. Prices from £195. fi nnlough.com 

SOMERSET The Treehouse at Harptree 

Court A magnificent copper bath tub and wraparound 

stargazer’s balcony, all half-way up a tree! 

Prices from £245 per night. canopyandstars.co.uk 

OXFORDSHIRE 

Soho Farmhouse 

The members’ club, set in 100 

acres of countryside, has 40 

wooden cabins of different 

sizes, a farmshop and deli, 

boathouse with pool and 

boating lake, country pub, 

central restaurant, kitchen 

garden, children’s play barn 

and cinema. Cabins from 

£325 for non-members. 

sohofarmhouse.com 

CUMBRIA 

Brimstone, Lake 

District National Park 

A collection of sixteen 

luxury suites and rooms, 

with spa, a haven of 

tranquillity in relaxed yet 

opulent surroundings 

within a UNESCO 

World Heritage Site. 

Suites priced from 

£420 per night, 

brimstonehotel.co.uk 


HAMPSHIRE 

The Yews Treehouse 

Chewton Glen, 

New Forest 

Immerse yourself in earthy 

tranquillity in this beautifully 

exclusive retreat. Take a digital 

detox and relax by the wood 

burner while your private chef 

prepares a delicious meal 

to order. Enjoy the idyllic 

surroundings from the outdoor 

hot tub. There's also underfloor 

heating, mood lighting, 

and even a hatch where 

delicious deliveries (such as 

your breakfast hamper) can 

be made in the most discreet 

way possible, combining 

unparalleled privacy with 

ultimate indulgence. Prices 

from £2,850 per night, Sunday 

- Thursday, £3,000 Friday & 

Saturday. chewtonglen.com 

B R I T I S H 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

Loves... 

INVERNESS-SHIRE 

Eagle Brae, Scottish 

Highlands Hand-built log 

cabins nestled between 

the magnificent Glen Affric 

and Glen Strathfarrar, set 

among some of the wildest 

glens, mountains and lochs 

of this idyllic location. 

Cabins sleep between 

two-six people. Priced from 

£683 for a short break, 

eaglebrae.co.uk 

ARGYLL 

The Lodge on Loch 

Goil, Scotland 

One of the finest 5-star 

venues in Scotland, and 

this issue’s front cover 

feature, The Lodge on 

Loch Goil is a 

first-class dining venue, 

‘restaurant with rooms’, 

with magnificent 

mountain views. 

thelodge-scotland.com 

HAMPSHIRE The Pig Cabin, Brockenhurst 

A rustic romantic hideaway deep in the New Forest. 

Priced from £250 per night thepighotel.com 

KENT Tiger Lodge, Port Lympne 

Sleep in a luxury cabin within a whisker of tigers! 

Priced £1,000 per night aspinallfoundation.org 


R E S T A U R A N T R E V I E W 

FARMER , BUTCHER , CHEF 

With much enthusiasm Jessica Way heads to the West Sussex coutryside, in 

search of the holy grail of epicurean contentment, the perfect Sunday roast 

GOODWOOD, WORLD-FAMOUS for its flagship events, 

Festival of Speed, Goodwood Revival and the Quatar 

Goodwood Festival, brings together thousands of 

visitors from across the globe each year. Mostly, this is to 

enjoy socialising within the fashionable country estate grounds – an 

unrivalled location, set in almost 12,000 acres of woodland, gardens, 

fields and farming. In the heart of the estate is Goodwood House, the 

glamorously restored 300-year old home to the Duke and Duchess of 

Richmond offering tours and afternoon teas. 

A walk (or drive) around the estate and there’s also ‘The Kennels’ 

a clubhouse for the Estate’s Sporting Members, ‘Hound Lodge’ 

a 10-bedroom country retreat, a motor circuit, racecourse, golf 

courses, farm, aerodrome and ‘The Goodwood Hotel’, complete with 

Health Club and adjacent to this ‘Farmer, Butcher, Chef’, Goodwood's 

sustainable restaurant - where we have a lunchtime booking. 

Farmer, Butcher, Chef is one of Europe’s few self-sustaining organic 

farms/restuarants, producing their organic meat just yards away 

at Goodwood’s Home Farm. The restaurant champions seasonal 

English fare using local suppliers and embracing the field to fork 

ideology, serving up some of the country’s very finest cuts of organic 

beef, pork and lamb to locals and visitors alike. 

Although adjoined to the hotel, the restaurant, a converted barn, also 

has its own private entrance, easily accessible from the main road, 

with plenty of parking shared with the hotel guests. With exposed 

traditional wooden beams counterbalancing the white washed walls, 

large open fire place, and authentic countryside chic décor, inside is 

extremely warm and welcoming – it really does have a home-fromhome 

feel, further enforced by the lovely welcoming, relaxed staff. 

For starters I went for the hand-caught Scallops with Samphire, 

Salsify, Wild Mushroom with Coral sauce, followed by a main of Slow 

Roasted Whole Rump of Beef with crispy beef shin, onion pressing, 

and roasted cauliflower. The meat was succulent and melted in the 

mouth, washed down with a lovely glass of Rioja Reserva. The closing 

scene was a warm pear and fennel cake with fennel ice cream. A 

surprising and delightful ending to sumptuous meal. 

As the Sunday lunch clientele thinned out we spent some time 

browsing the many quirky objects adorning the walls, an eclectic 

mix of Goodwood’s racing and farming heritage. Artefacts included 

radiator grills, badges, maps, horse harnesses and shearing scissors. 

This gave a real connection with the Goodwood Estate and brought 

the working element of the farm history to life. 

Tour over, we then enjoyed a coffee by the roaring fire in the cosy 

snug room adjacent to the bar. It was a chance to reflect on our meal 

and an afternoon well spent. We all agreed. Contentment had been 

found in this rural Sussex countryside gem. • 

Ü Goodwood Hotel, Chichester, West Sussex, PO18 0QB 


May – August 

Escape to Glyndebourne this summer. 

World-class opera, picnicking, dressing-up and precious time with family and friends 

in the glorious gardens, making memories that last long after the curtain comes down. 

Painted collage by Shadric Toop with source images from Sam Stephenson, James Bellorini, Leigh Simpson and Wikimedia Commons 

La damnation de Faust 

BERLIOZ 

Die Zauberflöte 

MOZART 

Rusalka Il barbiere di Siviglia 

DVOŘÁK 

ROSSINI 

Cendrillon Rinaldo 

MASSENET 

Public booking opens 3 March 

glyndebourne.com 

HANDEL

Experience Rudding Park Hotel and Spa 

Voted Best Hotel in England, Visit England Awards for Excellence 

Perfectly located to explore Harrogate and the Yorkshire Dales, 

The Spa features the UK’s first Roof To Spa and Garden 

Book online at ruddingpark.co.uk 

RUDDING PARK FOLLIFOOT HARROGATE NORTH YORKSHIRE HG3 1JH

ADVERTORIAL 

S P A & W E L L N E S S 

T A K E T I M E O U T 

FOR YOU 

North Devon’s newest and finest coastal spa has opened at 

the luxurious Saunton Sands Hotel overlooking the beach 

SOURCE SPA AND WELLNESS, set atop the cliffs on the 

North Devon coast, overlooking the breathtaking Saunton 

Sands beach and World Heritage Braunton Burrows, is now 

open. Spanning three floors, the space has been beautifully 

designed to make the most of the magnificent, unrivalled views of the 

vast expanse of beach and sea below. It’s a breathtaking experience 

and one which undoubtedly sets the spa apart. 

The ground floor comprises a lounge where clients first ease 

themselves into relaxation with a drink from the well-stocked bar (trying 

one of the four very healthy smoothie shots is well recommended), 

an indoor heated pool (good-sized, with plenty of natural light), a gym 

with daily fitness classes and a thermal suite that comes complete with 

a salt inhalation steam room, a Finnish aroma sauna, a contrast shower 

and a marine vitality pool positioned right next to a huge window 

overlooking Saunton Sands beach. 

The bubbles automatically turn on as you step in – requiring only the 

effort of lying back whilst the warm water, gentle pummelling and 

fabulous seascape perform their therapeutic magic. 

When you do emerge there’s an ice fountain available. If that 

seems counter-intuitive when you’re feeling all mellow and toasty, it’s 

because the sudden contrast between heat and cold is said to help you 

live longer. There are six large treatment rooms on level two of the spa, 

the biggest being a double that enjoys another epic vista. 

The relaxation room on the top floor of Source is the perfect way to 

end a spa journey. Comfortable beds in the lounge or on the sun deck 

face the ever-changing ocean, offering more mindful, tranquil moments 

of serenity. It’s the perfect spot for soaking up the sun, watching one of 

the north coast’s incredible sunsets or, enjoying candle-lit reverie. • 

Ü Saunton Sands Hotel, Saunton, Nr Braunton EX33 1LQ 

sourcespa.co.uk, 01271 892003 


Scotland’s Best Visitor Attraction 

Follow in the footsteps of Royalty when you step aboard Her Majesty The Queen’s former floating palace, 

an exclusive use five-star evening events venue and visitor attraction in Edinburgh. 

Explore where the Royal Family plus 220 crew lived and worked on board. See where Prince William and 

Prince Harry spent their summer holidays every year. Discover where kings and queens, world leaders and 

celebrities were wined and dined. 

Royal Deck Tea Room | Gift Shop | Free Parking | Fully Accessible 

Free Audio Tour Available in 30 Languages 

Ocean Terminal, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 6JJ 

0131 555 5566 | royalyachtbritannia.co.uk 

enquiries@tryb.co.uk

I N S P I R I N G V E N U E 

MIDDLETHORPE HALL 

With superb surroundings and closeness to central York, Middlethorpe Hall is a 

29-bedroom country house offering the best of both rural and city worlds 

LOCATED TWO MILES SOUTH of York, Middlethorpe Hall is 

a stunning hotel that’s well over 300 years old, set in 20 acres 

of garden and parkland. The hall was built during the time of 

William III at the end of the seventeenth century for prosperous 

master cutler Thomas Barlow and the former home of renowned 

diarist Mary Wortley Montagu. The hotel is best known today for its 

imaginative menu, elegant accommodation and spa, and is a great 

destination for any northern travel adventures. 

You feel more like you are staying in a grand private house than 

a hotel, it is as if you have stepped back in time, but still with all the 

modern amenities and faultless service we have come to expect. 

A number of architectural features, such as white sash windows and 

red brick patterns, show the indirect influence of the famous architect 

Sir Christopher Wren. In fact there are few country houses with as 

much charm and historic interest as Middlethorpe Hall, and for this 

reason, in September 2008, the National Trust acquired and restored 

the hotel, combining its impressive history, with modern day luxury for 

guests to enjoy. There are three 'Historic House Hotels' in the National 

Trust collection, "luxury hotels, proud of their past and careful of their 

present" explains Simon Jenkins, Chairman of the National Trust. 

The other two properties are Hartwell House in Buckinghamshire 

and Bodysgallen Hall in North Wales (historichousehotels.com). 

Middlethorpe offers country house fare at its best and has two AA 

rosettes while also being a two-time recipient of the Visit York Restaurant 

of the Year award. Eat in the panelled dining room with its view over the 

grounds, or enjoy an al fresco meal on the south-facing terrace. From 

starting the day with a sumptuous Yorkshire breakfast through to lunch, 

afternoon tea and a gourmet dinner, you can expect superlative cuisine 

and impeccable service. Enjoy a la carte and private dining options - and 

if you are lucky you might also enjoy watching the roe deer grazing on 

the parkland in the beautiful gardens. 

Stay in the main house or courtyard, in a suite or room, and look 

forward to luxury and comfort throughout. While the main house 

suites overlook the south lawn from their sizeable sash windows, some 

bedrooms also overlook the beech avenue and have fine paintings and 

antique furnishings. The charming suites offer both the comfort of a 

luxury hotel and a greater degree of privacy. 

From a secluded base in a private garden, behind the façade of a 

couple of Edwardian cottages, Middlethorpe’s boutique spa offers a full 

portfolio of health and beauty treatments to ease away the strains of 

modern life and pamper you from head to toe. Enjoy an indulgent spa 

day or half day, or build in a visit to your weekend break. • 

Ü Middlethorpe Hall & Spa, Bishopthorpe Rd, York YO23 2GB 

01904 641241, middlethorpe.com 


day tripper 

Bletchley Park p90 | Mighty Hikes p94 | For your Journey p98 

B U C K I N G H A M S H I R E 

Waddesdon Manor 

Home to the Rothschild 

Collections of paintings, sculpture 

and decorative arts. 

à 


C O D E B R E A K I N G 

BLETCHLEY PARK 

In a sleepy Buckinghamshire town a window opens 

on this history-changing, high-security WW2 

operation centre, kept secret for decades 

IT’S 1938 AND A WEALTHY ENGLISH family’s 581-acre country estate, 50 miles 

north of London, comes on the market. Swiftly purchased by a housing developer 

with an eye on its potential, given its excellent transport links, the chance to recoup 

much of the cost, by selling on the 58 acres immediately surrounding the mansion, 

proved irresistible. Little did he, or anyone else, know that the mansion would become 

the hub of the most closely-kept secret operation of the following seven years, home 

of the Government Code & Cypher School, the code-breaking heroes and heroines of 

Bletchley Park. 

The GC&CS was formed, soon after WW1 by a pragmatic merger of two armed forces 

departments, the Royal Navy’s NID25 and the Army’s MIiB, and based in Central 

London, therefore at risk if the anticipated second conflict were to happen. With the 

War Office unwilling to find the funds, the head of GC&CS, Admiral Sinclair, convinced 

that hostilities were inevitable, seized the initiative and purchased Bletchley Park in May 

1938, confident of its suitability, being comfortably distant from the capital and on both 

the main north-south railway line and another line, which ran east-west, taking in the 

university cities of Cambridge and Oxford. In September of that year, as tensions with 

Germany increased, Commander Alastair Denniston moved the London-based office 

of GC&CS and MI6 to Bletchley, as a real-time evacuation in the face of imminent war. 

Today known as ‘Captain Ridley’s Shooting Party’, lessons learnt from the three-week 

deployment gave the Codebreakers a huge advantage come 1939, including the need 

to recruit more of the eclectic mix of specialist staff needed to make it work. For over 10 

years, Nazi Germany had been communicating enciphered messages and Denniston 

needed both extremely clever, ‘professor’ types as crypto-analysts and, because of 

the electromechanical devices employed by the enemy, formally-trained advanced 

mathematicians. Naturally, linguists versed in German, Italian, Japanese and, later, 

Russian were of paramount importance. Above all, whether in senior or junior positions, 

all members of staff were obliged to maintain absolute secrecy, not simply about their 

own duties but even the very existence of ‘BP’. It is a true miracle that, overall up to à 


“To join any 

of the free 

walking tours 

around the site 

is advisable, 

to fill in some 

of the gaps in 

knowledge, 

and the guides 

are informative 

and hugely 

entertaining” 


HATFIELD HOUSE, GARDENS AND PARK. 

THE PERFECT PLACE TO VISIT. 

Visitors can enjoy the state rooms rich in paintings, fine furniture and tapestries along with a picture perfect garden which dates from the early 17th century. 

Beautifully designed gifts, jewellery, toys and much more can be found in the Stable Yard shops. Visitors can also enjoy relaxing at River Cottage & Deli which 

serves a variety of delicious foods throughout the day. 

Hatfield Park Farm covers an area of approximately 25 acres on the West side of Hatfield House. The farm shows the animals in a natural countryside setting. 

STABLE YARD SHOPS 

THE HOUSE PARK & GARDENS HATFIELD PARK FARM 

& RIVER COTTAGE KITCHEN 

& DELI 

WWW.HATFIELD-HOUSE.CO.UK 

VISITORS@HATFIELD-HOUSE.CO.UK 

Explore the glorious historic 

West Dean Gardens 

Enjoy every season at West Dean in the heart of 

the South Downs. Relax and unwind with beautiful 

Lavant Valley views. 

LEGO ® 

West Dean Gardens, Chichester, West Sussex, PO18 0RX 

Tel: 01243 818210 

www.westdeangardens.org.uk

DAY-TRIPPER 

“To join any of the free walking tours 

around the site is advisable, to fill in some 

of the gaps in knowledge, and the guides 

are informative and hugely entertaining” 


LATITUDE 51.9833 

LONGITUDE 0.7333 

10,000 individuals (three-quarters of whom 

were female) involved, the true function 

of BP was not publicly revealed until many 

decades later, sadly too late for many to 

receive due recognition in their lifetime. 

Cracking the ‘Enigma’ (a generic name 

for a series of increasingly complicated 

cipher machines) code was a priority and 

was greatly facilitated by the pre-war work 

of a number of Polish code-breakers who, 

although never engaged at BP, provided 

vital information. With Enigma machines, 

and others such as Lorenz, becoming ever 

more complex, the burden on the human 

mind became intolerable and led to the 

development of the ‘Bombe’, the first 

electromechanical calculator, designed 

by Alan Turing and Gordon Welchman to 

eliminate a high proportion of the many 

billions of possible coding combinations. 

Subsequently, over 200 ‘Bombes’ were 

manufactured, for use around the clock, 

but, to decode the messages enciphered 

by the Lorenz, another, more powerful 

machine had to be devised, brought into 

service in 1943. Its name, fittingly given 

its size, was ‘Colossus’ and it was the 

world’s first semi-programmable electronic 

computer. It was built by a UK Post Office 

team under the leadership of the brilliant, 

but sadly unrecognised, Tommy Flowers. 

Only a visit to Bletchley Park, first opened 

to the public in 1994 and improved in 

every succeeding year, can do justice 

to the dedication and stoicism of the 

people involved and their single-minded 

determination to contribute to the war 

effort in the best way they could. To join 

any of the free walking tours around 

the site is advisable, to fill in some of the 

gaps in knowledge, and the guides are 

informative and hugely entertaining. 

Once left to their own devices, some may 

simply retire for refreshments but, for me, 

the mansion displays make it a mustvisit 

and, with many of the original huts 

remaining in situ, furnished and decorated 

as they would have been, the whole park 

‘sings’ of the invaluable work carried out 

there. You will be awed by the collection 

of different cipher machines and the 

‘techies’ will be fascinated by the radio 

communication exhibits in the National 

Radio Centre. Annually, visitor numbers 

are 2-300,000 and the Park is open all 

year round. Bletchley Park is, at the same 

time, enjoyable, enlightening and inspiring, 

telling an emotional and little-known true 

story of obstinate dedication. u 

B L E T C H L E Y P A R K I S O P E N 

E V E R Y D A Y T O V I S I T O R S 

E X C E P T 2 4 , 2 5 , 2 6 

D E C E M B E R A N D 1 J A N U A R Y . 

B L E T C H L E Y P A R K , S H E R W O O D 

D R I V E , B L E T C H L E Y, M I L T O N 

KEYNES, MK3 6EB. 

Ü BLETCHLEYPARK.ORG.UK 

B E Y O N D B L E T C H L E Y 

WONDERFUL WADDESDON 

Built in the classical French- 

Renaissance style for Ferdinand de 

Rothschild in the late-19th century, 

Waddesdon Manor, near Aylesbury, is a 

treasure-house for the family’s fabulous 

collections of paintings, sculpture and 

decorative artistry and the gardens are 

picturesque perfection. 

Ü waddesdon.org.uk 

AMAZING ASCOTT 

Originally a 17th century, Jacobean halftimbered 

farmhouse, Ascott, near Leighton 

Buzzard, was remodelled and enlarged for 

Leopold de Rothschild. 

The result was described by Mary Gladstone 

as ‘a palace-like cottage, the loveliest thing’. 

Form your own opinion as the house, its art 

collections and blissful gardens are now in 

the care of The National Trust. 

Ü nationaltrust.org.uk/ascott 

WILD WOBURN 

Close by the architectural splendour of 

Woburn Abbey, is the Safari Park, whose 

360 acres offer unrivalled opportunities to 

experience wildlife in a natural environment. 

For the comfort and safety of both the 

animals and visitors, the Road Safari 

takes in gentler areas before reaching the 

71-acre Kingdom of the Carnivores – do 

not leave the car! The Foot Safari, which 

follows, allows animal-lovers a more tactile 

encounter! 

Ü woburnsafari.co.uk 

For more visit britishtraveljournal.com 


J O I N T H E F U N 

MIGHTY HIKES 

Mighty Hikes, organised by Macmillan Cancer 

Support, are a fantastic series of one-day hiking 

marathons across the UK. Experience some of the 

UK's most breathtaking scenery, while also raising 

much-needed funds for Macmillan 

FROM NORTHERN LANDSCAPES along the Ullswater Way from Dalemain to 

Lowther Castle to the magnificent Jurassic Coast from Weymouth to Wareham, 

past the iconic Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove, Mighty Hikes take you to some 

of the most beautiful and unspoiled parts of the UK. 

There are eight different events taking place in 2019 in various locations from the South 

Coast to Rob Roy in Scotland. Each event takes place over a day, covering around 26 

miles, and offering you the opportunity to enjoy a guided route along coastlines and 

off the beaten track which you might not have had the confidence to otherwise attempt 

independently. 

To take part and help Macmillan continue to support people living with cancer, and 

their families, you're asked to pledge to raise a minimum of £250. There is just a £25 

registration fee to pay for taking part in a Mighty Hike, and you will receive a branded 

t-shirt, drinks and snacks along the way, a buffet lunch and a hot dinner at the end 

of the event. All walks include professional organisation and the provision of medical 

assistance. 

On the day, you set off in a group of similar walking ability. Waves of around 250 

hikers start walking 20 minutes apart from around 7-8.30am. You are given the 

opportunity to choose your preferred start time as part of the registration process. 

With all the organisation being taken care of, you can simply put one foot in front of 

the other, enjoy the beautiful views of some of the best walking routes in the country, while 

taking in the electric atmosphere and meeting people along the way. 

Both amateur and professional photography enthusiasts love Mighty Hikes as 

they cover many iconic British landmarks at a leisurely pace - there's plenty of time to 

compose the perfect shot and create even more lasting memories from your trip. à 


“Thank you so 

much again for 

everything you 

do - you truly 

are an amazing 

organisation.“ 

“Do it for 

yourself, do it 

for Macmillan, 

do it for 

someone you 

love, but don’t 

not do it” 

“It was a 

tremendous 

event and the 

memories will 

stay with us 

forever.”

Where the mighty events are taking place... 

South Coast - 8 June 2019 

With this beautiful hike along the South Downs Way from Brighton 

to Eastbourne, you can cover a 'marathon' distance while 

experiencing unspoilt views of the English Channel. The white 

cliffs of Seven Sisters Country Park provide many photographic 

opportunities of the variety of seabirds that can be found in the 

area around the lagoon and salt marshes. 

Thames Path - 20 July 2019 

Following what is probably one of the world's most iconic rivers, 

the Thames Path Mighty Hike runs from Royal Windsor to 

Henley. Not only is this route perfect for boating enthusiasts 

(remember that Henley is home to the world-famous regatta), 

but it also provides some great shots of Windsor Castle at the 

beginning, along with All Saints Church in Bisham. 

Jurassic Coast - 15 June 2019 

The Mighty Hike along the Jurassic Coast is the perfect way to 

see the first-ever area of England to be designated as a World 

Heritage Site. The walk meanders from Weymouth to Wareham, 

and it is well worth bearing in mind that the route becomes 

rather steep in places - it is one of the more challenging hikes in 

the programme. 

Peak District - 27 July 2019 

This part of the United Kingdom has breathtaking mountain 

scenery, and the Peak District Mighty Hike runs from Darley 

Moor to Bakewell. The walk includes beautiful views of the River 

Wye and rolling forest landscapes before the route ends in the 

Derbyshire market town of Bakewell - 26 miles should work up 

plenty of appetite to try the local tart of the same name! 


Northumberland Coast - 6 July 2019 

It is 'a tale of two castles' as this route takes you from Alnwick 

Castle to Bamburgh Castle. If the former venue looks familiar, 

that is because Alnwick Castle was used for a number of scenes 

in the first two Harry Potter movies. The route ends at Bamburgh 

Castle, known as the 'King Of Castles', with its imposing walls 

and enchanting tales of royal hauntings. 

Rob Roy - 31 August and 1 September 2019 

The Rob Roy Way has proved to be so popular that this Mighty 

Hike will be run on two dates, and it is easy to see why participants 

love this route from Callander to Killin in Scotland. The 

Trossachs National Park has numerous glens and lochs, making 

this hike perfect for both wildlife and landscape photography. 

There's a reason why this area is referred to as 'wee hills with big 

views' - it isn't too challenging for hikers of all abilities. 

Lake District - 13 July 2019 

This is another fantastic opportunity to explore breathtaking 

northern landscapes along the Ullswater Way from Dalemain to 

Lowther Castle. The hike begins in the shadow of one of Cumbria's 

most impressive stately homes, parts of which date back 

to the 14th Century, and finishes at the impressive castle and 

gardens in Lowther. 

Wye Valley - 7 September 2019 

Running from Chepstow to Monmouth, the Wye Valley route 

takes hikers through a stunning countryside beginning right at 

the English and Welsh border. Tintern Abbey is the main highlight 

along the way, and this 12th Century landmark has recently 

undergone two years of painstaking restoration work. This gives 

visitors a fascinating insight into the daily lives of the monks who 

lived there many hundreds of years ago. 

M A C M I L L A N C A N N O T S U P P O R T P E O P L E L I V I N G 

W I T H C A N C E R W I T H O U T Y O U R H E L P . T O F I N D 

O U T M O R E A N D S I G N U P F O R A M I G H T Y H I K E I N 

Y O U R C H O S E N R E G I O N , S I M P LY V I S I T 

Ü MACMILLAN.ORG.UK/MIGHTYHIKES 


BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 01 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Answers will be printed in our summer issue published 29 May 

Luckily Prestel’s new £14.99 Great 

Pubs of London slips into the pocket. 

What better way to visit London 

than through its historic pubs? 

prestelpublishing.randomhouse.de 

 

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ACROSS 

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12 With Loch Lomond, they form 

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DOWN 

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23 Location of Game of Thrones' 

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25 One-on-one teacher (5) 

26 Island could be Flat or Steep in the 

Bristol Channel (4) 

The sender of the first correct 

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(fadedgrandeur.co.uk) typographic 

map gift worth £300! 

B R I T I S H 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

Competition! 

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British Travel Journal | Spring 2019

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