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Msafiri September <strong>2017</strong> edition 137 kenya-airways.com<br />
Shooting Stars<br />
Hollywood favourites<br />
Tour de<br />
Force<br />
Spectacular Zimbabwe<br />
Free to Take Home September <strong>2017</strong><br />
6<br />
Bangkok<br />
Secrets
ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT / 11<br />
“You’ll discover the stories of<br />
will and dedication that made<br />
their success possible”<br />
Dear guests,<br />
We recently introduced the beautiful<br />
Victoria Falls, the largest waterfall on<br />
Earth, as our 53rd destination. A visit<br />
here should definitely be on your bucket<br />
list. If you go in April, when the water<br />
levels peak, you’ll experience “the smoke<br />
that thunders”, a cloud of inverted rain<br />
that rises 500 m into the sky as the<br />
tremendous force of 625 million litres of<br />
water per minute cascades into the<br />
depths below.<br />
One of Africa’s greatest assets is its<br />
youthful population. Over 200 million<br />
of the continent’s population is between<br />
the ages of 15 and 24. The Africa Rising<br />
story continues despite the various<br />
challenges facing Africa. Kenya Airways<br />
is committed to supporting African<br />
youth. Our purpose sits squarely on<br />
our country’s need to accelerate the<br />
pace of growth and development in a<br />
sustainable way. The youth is the<br />
catalyst for this growth. This month we<br />
investigate youth training programmes<br />
available in Kenya.<br />
you’ll discover the stories of will and<br />
dedication that made their success<br />
possible.<br />
Finally, over the last year and a half,<br />
we’ve been implementing our<br />
turnaround programme, Operation<br />
Pride. As part of this process, we’re<br />
pleased to announce that we’ve secured<br />
conditional agreement from our key<br />
financial stakeholders – including the<br />
Kenyan Government, several Kenyan<br />
Banks and other financiers – so we can<br />
proceed with the capital optimisation<br />
plan that will secure our future.<br />
Sebastian Mikosz,<br />
Managing Director and CEO<br />
Kenya Airways<br />
➔<br />
Kenya Airways World<br />
Travel Awards<br />
• Winner of Best Airline in Africa, 2016<br />
• Winner of Africa’s Leading Airline<br />
– Business Class 2013, 2014,<br />
2015, 2016<br />
We’re proud to feature movie star<br />
Lupita Nyong’o on our cover. After<br />
winning the Best Supporting Actress<br />
Oscar in 2014 for 12 Years a Slave,<br />
Nyong’o represents the strides being<br />
made by Africans in the US movie<br />
industry, which has been a<br />
predominantly Western enterprise.<br />
Nyong’o and her talented peers, who<br />
represent most of the key filmmaking<br />
disciplines, have now charged into the<br />
upper echelons of Hollywood. In our<br />
exposé of these talented individuals,
CONTENTS / 13<br />
Travel & Nature<br />
16 Grape Town<br />
South African vineyards<br />
19 Habari<br />
Kenya & the world<br />
26 Tour de Force<br />
Spectacular Zimbabwe<br />
42 Botswana<br />
At a glance<br />
54 Bangkok Secrets<br />
An insider’s view<br />
60 Guess and Win<br />
Travel quiz<br />
62 Race to Safety<br />
Saving the cheetah<br />
62<br />
26<br />
People<br />
36 People to Watch<br />
Rising stars in Hollywood<br />
44 In Our Hands<br />
Interview with KQ’s new CEO<br />
Publisher Kenya Airways | Head of Marketing Jacquie Muhati Corporate Communications Manager Wanjiku Mugo Advertising MediaEdge Interactive Ltd. | Managing Director Esther<br />
Ngomeli Head of Media Rose Kagori Concept, Content & Production G+J Custom Content | CEO Corine d’Haans Creative Director Loes van Dokkum Managing Editor Annette Lavrijsen<br />
Art Director Sabine Verschueren Designer Gaby Walther Subeditor Ben Clark Proofreader Julia Gorodecky Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer Production Manager Hans Koedijker IT<br />
Manager Olaf de Jager Contributors Jackson Biko, Mirjam Bleeker, Edith Carron, Andrea Dijkstra, Suzi Eszterhaz, Mark Eveleigh, Annemarie Hoeve, Desiree Hoving, Regina Jane Jere,<br />
Jeroen van Loon, Piper Mackay, Astrid Nühn, Joshua Obaga, La Peet, Nina Siegal, Hazel Thompson, Eva de Vries, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander Translation Concorde<br />
Lithography Ready4Print Printer Habo da Costa, Vianen
14 / CONTENTS<br />
Fly Guide<br />
54<br />
Business<br />
71 Highlights<br />
Inflight entertainment guide<br />
91 Safari Njema<br />
93 News & Service<br />
95 Flying Blue News<br />
97 SkyTeam News<br />
98 Route Maps<br />
103 Magical Kenya<br />
105 Cargo<br />
106 Get Comfortable<br />
19<br />
46 Our Biggest Asset<br />
Youth-talent programmes in Africa<br />
51 Get Things Done<br />
Productivity tips<br />
52 Build a Successful Team<br />
How to work together<br />
82 Msafiri en Français<br />
86 Msafiri 中 文 版<br />
Contact details Kenya Airways Marketing & Corporate Communications, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, <strong>msafiri</strong>@kenya-airways.com<br />
Website kenya-airways.com, <strong>msafiri</strong>-magazine.com Facebook Kenya Airways Twitter @kenyaAirways Instagram @officialkenyaairways<br />
Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734 271488, <strong>msafiri</strong>@mediaedgeke.com<br />
G+J Media, Spaklerweg 52, 1114 AE Amsterdam, the Netherlands +31 20 7943500, Website genj.nl<br />
No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, the publisher and Kenya Airways assume no<br />
responsibility for mistakes and effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation.<br />
Msafiri is available on all KQ flights and at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available for free at kenya-airways.com.
16 / NATURE / Views /<br />
Grape<br />
Town<br />
The South African<br />
WINE INDUSTRY<br />
started at Constantia,<br />
a single vineyard near<br />
Cape Town in 1659.<br />
text Ben Clark<br />
TODAY THERE ARE 60 specific<br />
grape-growing areas within the Wine of<br />
Origin system, which was installed in<br />
1973 with a hierarchy of production<br />
regions, districts and wards.<br />
Rietvallei Wine, which is available<br />
on Kenya Airways’ flights, is among<br />
South Africa’s oldest family-owned wine<br />
estates. Alewyn Burger acquired it in<br />
1864 for his son Jacobus Francois. The<br />
estate has been in the same family for<br />
seven generations, and is still personally<br />
managed by the Burgers.<br />
One of the first wine farms to grace<br />
the picturesque Robertson Wine Valley<br />
(near Cape Town), the Rietvallei Estate<br />
has unique soil structures – from red<br />
calcareous clay-loam to sandy alluvial<br />
soil – that promote sweetness, enhancing<br />
the grapes’ flavour and aroma. The area<br />
also has a climate that is ideal for grape<br />
cultivation. Wines produced at Rietvallei<br />
include Estéanna, Cabernet Sauvignon, a<br />
1908 Red Muscadel, Sauvignon Blanc,<br />
Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay.<br />
The Vine Improvement Programme<br />
(VIP), established in the late 20th century<br />
to modernise viticultural knowledge in<br />
South Africa, is still ongoing. Over the<br />
last 20 years, the VIP has promoted the<br />
South African wine industry to the upper<br />
echelons of the global wine industry.<br />
That said, it probably makes sense to<br />
have a glass of Rietvallei onboard your<br />
flight right now.<br />
Kenya Airways operates flights from Nairobi’s<br />
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport to Cape<br />
Town via Livingstone, Zambia and via Victoria<br />
Falls, Zimbabwe.
NATURE / 17<br />
Alamy
HABARI / 19<br />
One of Africa’s best<br />
rail journeys is<br />
the Pride of Africa<br />
from Cape Town<br />
to Pretoria.<br />
In three years’ time, Africa’s tallest building<br />
will be Nairobi’s The Pinnacle. This 70-floor<br />
building is currently under construction.<br />
Habari<br />
Icon<br />
Exploring Identity<br />
Posing with a supermarket trolley,<br />
with a mannequin or in an ordinary<br />
living room. The Nigerian Aniebiet<br />
Ekong (21) creates absurd but<br />
intriguing self-portraits that explore<br />
his identity with a mix of 2D and 3D<br />
media. “When editing, I use colours<br />
that mirror my poses and outfits,” he<br />
explains. Instagram: @baddieani.
20 / HABARI<br />
A must-see in Ghana is the<br />
whitewashed Cape Coast<br />
Castle that overlooks the<br />
ocean.<br />
Nairobi<br />
Among Africa’s most famous contemporary<br />
writers are Chinua Achebe, Chimamanda<br />
Ngozi Adichie, and Ayi Kwei Armah.<br />
Motoring<br />
Simba Corp<br />
Aspire Centre<br />
The dealers of BMW, Renault<br />
and Mitsubishi have opened a<br />
state-of-the-art showroom and<br />
service centre that combines<br />
hospitality and motoring.<br />
Check it out. It’s rad.<br />
~ simbacorp.com<br />
Stay<br />
Best Western’s New Thing<br />
The hotel chain has gone into the leafier, woodier part of<br />
Nairobi with these smart one-bedroom apartments. This<br />
property on Riverside Drive comes with the usual bells and<br />
whistles: 24-hr concierge services, express check-out, daily<br />
housekeeping, laundry services and your own private working<br />
office complete with fast wifi. Upstairs is a fantastic bar with<br />
an excellent view of the treetops. Great for cocktails.<br />
~ bwexecutiveresidencynairobi.co.ke<br />
Eat<br />
Ankole<br />
Grill<br />
“Start<br />
by building<br />
the why”<br />
– Muthoni Ndonga –<br />
creative entrepreneur<br />
What’s a good steak? Isn’t that the question carnivorous men<br />
chugging beers and wine around tables under low lighting<br />
ask? Luckily it’s upon this question that Ankole Grill, the new<br />
steakhouse at the junction of Lenana and Galana Roads, was<br />
founded. The steakhouse is a broody and modern kraal<br />
(enclosure) made from steel and wood. The tables are made<br />
from palm wood. Decor is “smoky” and tasteful. Eclectic<br />
music – a mix of African music, acoustics, jazz and some pop<br />
– streams overhead. The menu features burgers like the Ankole,<br />
the big bad bacon cheeseburgers, as well as top sirloin steak<br />
– all great food based on great science of beef. This grill would<br />
make the grandfathers of cows – the Ankole-Watusi – quite<br />
chuffed.<br />
~ ankolegrill.co.ke<br />
Nairobi Text: Jackson Biko
The Bazaruto Archipelago<br />
in Mozambique consists of<br />
five idyllic islands: Bazaruto‚<br />
Benguerra‚ Magaruque‚ Santa<br />
Carolina and Bangué.<br />
African spotlight<br />
LagosPhoto Festival<br />
LagosPhoto, launched in 2010, has established a<br />
community for contemporary photography that<br />
unites local and international artists. This monthlong<br />
event takes place across the city and includes<br />
activities such as a summer school, exhibitions and<br />
talks. The eighth edition of this annual festival is<br />
themed “Regimes of Truth” and will be held in<br />
Lagos from 21 October to 20 November.<br />
What’s On<br />
HABARI / 21<br />
The three African destinations most<br />
popular with Chinese tourists are: South<br />
Africa, Egypt and Kenya.<br />
~ lagosphotofestival.com<br />
Entrepreneur<br />
Muthoni Ndonga<br />
Kenyan wonder woman Muthoni Ndonga is multi-talented. She<br />
is a singer/rapper widely known as “Muthoni the Drummer<br />
Queen”, a creative entrepreneur and founder of the successful<br />
Blankets & Wine events in Nairobi.<br />
Habari Text: Eva de Vries<br />
Trending now<br />
African Beats on Spotify<br />
Online platform OkayAfrica has launched its own<br />
Spotify channel, which showcases the many diverse<br />
styles and sounds coming out of Africa. Playlists<br />
include the hottest afrobeat sounds, vintage African<br />
records, black punk bands, dedicated mixtapes and a<br />
weekly updated playlist to keep listeners informed<br />
about what’s new and cool across Africa (and among<br />
its diaspora). Follow OkayAfrica on Spotify.<br />
Blankets & Wine started back in 2008, when music lover Muthoni Ndonga<br />
decided to host picnic-styled events on Sundays in Nairobi, with the goal<br />
of promoting local artistic talent. “People bring a bottle of wine, a picnic<br />
basket and a blanket. And they can sit back, relax and listen to the music,”<br />
she explains.<br />
The event is one of the most popular music festivals in East Africa and<br />
has attracted top performers in music, art, literature and fashion. Blankets<br />
& Wine has already made the move to Kampala, but this year it will also<br />
debut in Rwanda’s capital Kigali – showing its enormous popularity in<br />
the region.<br />
Managing both her life as an artist as well as an entrepreneur, Ndonga is<br />
the right person to share some inspiring advice for those with creative<br />
business aspirations, “It’s a tough business, so have back-up plans just in<br />
case. If you get shut down, get right back up and become even better.”<br />
~ blanketsandwine.com
➔<br />
Romazava is considered the<br />
national dish of Madagascar<br />
and each family makes their<br />
own version.<br />
Beer<br />
Windhoek<br />
Oktoberfest<br />
For beer lovers who would<br />
like to experience a real<br />
Oktoberfest without going<br />
to Germany, the annual<br />
Windhoek Oktoberfest in<br />
Cape Town is the place to<br />
be. It offers a combination<br />
of food, games, music and<br />
Namibian beer. This year<br />
the festival takes place<br />
20-22 October.<br />
~ windhoekoktoberfest.com<br />
Hermanus Whale Festival<br />
Celebrating the migration of<br />
Southern Right Whales and other<br />
marine wildlife with ocean-themed<br />
activities and exhibitions. Takes<br />
place from 29 September – 1<br />
October in Hermanus, South Africa.<br />
~ hermanuswhalefestival.co.za<br />
Arts & Culture<br />
HABARI / 23<br />
You can find privately owned<br />
minibuses all over Africa. They are<br />
called matatu in Kenya, tro tro in<br />
Ghana, and dala dala in Tanzania.<br />
Art<br />
Young Creative<br />
The young and talented<br />
Kenyan Edwin Wainaina is<br />
showing off his incredible<br />
artwork on Instagram and he<br />
already has more than 18,000<br />
followers. His colourful pieces<br />
are inspired by portraits of<br />
beautiful people.<br />
~ @ed_wainaina (Instagram)<br />
Cycling<br />
Tour de Machakos<br />
The Tour de Machakos offers a perfect excuse to leave the city,<br />
train those muscles and see the hidden gems of Machakos<br />
County. Cycling professionals and amateur fanatics can join<br />
the four-day road race that consists of four stages. The event<br />
takes place from 19 to 22 October.<br />
“Time has<br />
its own time”<br />
– Edwin Wainaina –<br />
Kenyan artist<br />
~ tourdemachakos.com
24 / HABARI<br />
The Comrades Marathon in<br />
South Africa is 89 km and<br />
the oldest ultramarathon in<br />
the world.<br />
People<br />
The primary exported commodities of<br />
African nations are oil, gold, diamonds,<br />
cacao, timber and precious metals.<br />
Botswana and South Africa are the two<br />
biggest exporting countries.<br />
Insiders<br />
African Travel Bloggers<br />
Worldwide there are millions of so-called “travel<br />
bloggers”, but African writers are still scarce.<br />
Fortunately, we have found four great bloggers who<br />
share their travel stories, inspiring other Africans to<br />
pack their bags.<br />
Jackson Biko<br />
The Kenyan Camper, Kenya<br />
This blogger doesn’t reveal<br />
his full identity, as he likes to<br />
focus on his adventures. He<br />
shares the most amazing<br />
camping spots amid great<br />
Kenyan nature, varying from<br />
bush to beach.<br />
thekenyancamper.com<br />
The Incidental Tourist,<br />
South Africa<br />
Based in Cape Town, Dawn is<br />
a traveller and photographer<br />
with a deep love for Africa.<br />
Her stories about hikes in<br />
Madagascar and malaria-free<br />
safaris make you want to hit<br />
the road immediately.<br />
theincidentaltourist.com<br />
Zuru Kenya, Kenya<br />
Showcasing people, food,<br />
culture, wildlife and nature,<br />
Olive offers a high-quality<br />
travel and leisure website<br />
packed with information and<br />
beautiful photography. Apart<br />
from Kenya, she also features<br />
neighbouring countries.<br />
zurukenya.com<br />
Msanzi Girl, South Africa<br />
The South African lady<br />
behind Msanzi Girl offers<br />
her readers a new perspective<br />
on South Africa. Meruschka<br />
writes about places many<br />
people know exist, but few<br />
have properly explored.<br />
mzansigirl.com<br />
The Iconoclast<br />
Barfly<br />
There’s a bar in Barcelona called Obama English Pub. It’s<br />
on Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes. They serve burgers and<br />
(mostly) American music. It’s also full of (mostly) American<br />
tourists. Seated at the entrance is a plastic statue of Obama.<br />
Passing tourists love to drape their hands around his shoulders<br />
and take selfies with him. I was there recently but I didn’t take a<br />
picture with him because, well, I don’t like plastic. You’ll excuse<br />
me, I’m environmentally conscious. Anyway this one time, this<br />
guy from Greenland (upon realising I was Kenyan) asked me<br />
with so much sincerity if all of us Kenyans run as part of the<br />
school’s extra-curricular activities. I said actually most Kenyans<br />
can’t even climb stairs, let alone run. Most walk. To work. The<br />
middle classes drive everywhere. You won’t step outside the<br />
house and find a horde of smiling runners going down the<br />
street. I said, “If you throw a pebble in a crowd it wouldn’t hit<br />
a runner. It would most likely hit a smoker. Or, worse, someone<br />
who only wants to talk about Game of Thrones.”<br />
None of my friends run. Not even on a treadmill. In fact,<br />
most of my friends are like most of the Americans I saw at the<br />
Obama pub: big burly men, with beer guts. The tentacles of<br />
globalisation shouldn’t be underplayed. I will admit that it’s<br />
flattering to be thought of as an athletic and running nation.<br />
It’s also old and deceptive and I can’t be a party to that myth<br />
any longer. I suspect I ruined the “Kenyan experience” for that<br />
gentleman, which was his fault really, asking me questions while<br />
I was drinking.<br />
I can see him back in Greenland with his mate, Akkiu, in a<br />
pub. “I met a Kenyan guy,” he announces. “And he doesn’t run.<br />
Nobody runs.” Akkiu looks at him with astonishment. He adds<br />
bitterly, “They only watch Game of Thrones.” Akkiu looks at<br />
him and says, “Are you sure he was a Kenyan guy?” He says he<br />
is sure, Akkiu asks how he can be sure. He says, “Because he<br />
didn’t take a picture with Obama.”<br />
~ www.bikozulu.co.ke<br />
Hannah Wieslander (Illustration Jackson Biko)
HABARI / 25<br />
Victoria Falls is roughly<br />
twice as high as North<br />
America’s Niagara Falls.<br />
Gadgets<br />
South Africa’s favourite snack is<br />
biltong. These strips of cured and dried<br />
meat served in different sizes are an<br />
important part of the culture.<br />
Travel gadgets<br />
A Sound Choice<br />
These award-winning wireless headphones tailor<br />
sound to your environment.<br />
1<br />
Philips Noise Cancellation<br />
More sound, less noise and a powerful bass.<br />
Be immersed in your music with innovative<br />
ActiveShield noise-cancelling technology.<br />
With 40 hours of playback time, you’ll enjoy<br />
the comfort of the pressure-relieving cushions.<br />
Not to mention on-ear sealing, which provides<br />
precision sound, blocking out ambient noise.<br />
~ philips.com<br />
2<br />
Bose QuietComfort 35<br />
Bose have re-engineered their noise-cancelling<br />
headphones to be wireless using Bluetooth®<br />
technology. At the flip of a switch the noise fades<br />
and your music soars. Bose Acoustic Noise<br />
Cancelling technology continuously measures,<br />
compares and reacts to outside noise then<br />
cancels it with the opposite signal.<br />
~ bose.com<br />
3<br />
Samsung Level On Wireless Pro<br />
Perfect for music lovers who want to couple<br />
outstanding audio quality with stylish design.<br />
An ergonomic shape and dazzling colours mean<br />
you can enjoy great sound while wearing a piece<br />
of great-looking gear. Incorporating Samsung’s<br />
state-of-the-art UHQ audio support technology,<br />
these headphones offer top-quality sound.<br />
~ samsung.com<br />
Inspired to buy?<br />
See our shopping<br />
magazine Karibu.<br />
1 2<br />
3<br />
4<br />
4<br />
Sony MDR-1000X<br />
These headphones lead the market in noise<br />
cancellation and sound quality. LDAC technology<br />
transmits approximately three times more data<br />
than conventional Bluetooth® wireless audio,<br />
which allows you to enjoy audio content that<br />
is close to high resolution. In addition, Sony’s<br />
Sense Engine affords you control with touch<br />
gestures.<br />
~ sony.com
26 / TRAVEL / Zimbabwe
TRAVEL / 27<br />
TOUR DE<br />
FORCE<br />
Some of the world’s largest waterfalls,<br />
ancient CULTURAL TREASURES and<br />
beautiful game parks make Zimbabwe an<br />
adventurer’s dream.<br />
text Andrea Dijkstra photography Jeroen van Loon<br />
Alamy
28 / TRAVEL / Zimbabwe<br />
ONE OF THE FIRST things you do as a tourist in<br />
Zimbabwe is marvel at the spectacular landscape and the<br />
warmth of the friendly people. A journey here will take you<br />
through a topographical patchwork of wide-open vistas (the<br />
highveld), balancing boulders and flaming red Msasa trees,<br />
to laidback towns, lush green mountains and fast-flowing<br />
lifeblood rivers.<br />
VICTORIA FALLS<br />
Not long following our arrival in Zimbabwe’s capital<br />
Harare, we bump into talkative Zimbabwean businessman<br />
Lovemore Kuwana. He invites us for a cappuccino (a great<br />
recommendation) in the lovely gardens of The Cottage Café,<br />
where he gives us his view on star attraction Victoria Falls.<br />
“They are an absolute wonder. I prefer to visit them during<br />
wet season because that’s when you really see the ‘smoke that<br />
thunders’,” he says. “During winter the scenery is a bit more<br />
dry and although the view is more clear then, I personally miss<br />
the excitement of being soaked in the mist.”<br />
Following his advice, and dressed in ponchos, a few days<br />
later we enter the main gate and walk through a mini rainforest<br />
in the direction of the Falls, while a sprinkling shower slowly<br />
transforms into a real downpour. It’s the end of the wet<br />
season so the Zambezi River is at its peak, passing roughly<br />
625 million litres of water over the Falls per minute. This<br />
produces a spray that rises 500 m into the air, soaking you<br />
thoroughly. Keep your camera stowed; there will be moments<br />
for photos later. When the fog lifts, the incredible force of this<br />
monumental waterfall becomes visible. You can see it from 16<br />
different viewpoints, which is more than enough exposure for<br />
most. However, if you prefer a more hair-raising experience<br />
you can risk life and limb paragliding over the Falls or bungee<br />
jumping with a view of them. Alternatively, put yourself inches<br />
from certain death by bathing at the Zambian side in the socalled<br />
Devil’s Pool, a natural swimming pool right on the edge<br />
of the Falls. And there’s always the more conservative helicopter<br />
ride if your thrill seeking lies somewhere in between.<br />
For many years, visiting this UNESCO World Heritage<br />
Site was not particularly straightforward, thanks largely to the<br />
region’s creaking infrastructure. This changed with the opening<br />
of Victoria Falls International Airport last year. The US$150<br />
million airport is capable of handling 1.5 million passengers<br />
annually and its new runway can handle some of the world’s<br />
largest jets.<br />
ANCIENT HISTORY<br />
The impressive ruins of Great Zimbabwe (also a UNESCO<br />
Site), one of Africa’s most important historical monuments, ><br />
“The ancient city was once the capital of<br />
a great empire”<br />
Where to stay<br />
BUDGET<br />
It’s a Small World Backpackers Lodge<br />
A lively hostel conveniently located<br />
in the Avondale neighbourhood in<br />
Harare with double rooms starting from<br />
US$25. It’s a great first port of call for<br />
advice, and offers car and bike hire.<br />
smallworldlodge.com<br />
MID-RANGE<br />
Norma Jeane’s Lakeview Resort<br />
A country-style lodge on a conveniently<br />
short drive from the ancient city of<br />
Great Zimbabwe, offering double rooms<br />
starting from US$72. The resort has<br />
a beautiful garden with a scenic view<br />
over Lake Kyle, the country’s largest<br />
inland lake. normajeanslakeview.com<br />
HIGHER END<br />
Elephant Camp<br />
A luxurious but small-scale lodge with<br />
fabulous, romantic open-air rooms<br />
(starting from US$750) with private<br />
decks and plunge pools offering you a<br />
continuous view on the breathtaking<br />
spray of the Victoria Falls and a<br />
chance to spot elephants passing by.<br />
theelephantcamp.com<br />
Alamy<br />
Above: The ruins of Great<br />
Zimbabwe, UNESCO<br />
World Heritage Site<br />
(top); Soapstone bird<br />
sculptures (bottom right).<br />
Right page: Victoria<br />
Falls (top); Trees around<br />
Victoria Falls (bottom<br />
left); young man at<br />
Devil's Pool<br />
(bottom right).
Shutterstock<br />
TRAVEL / 29
30 / TRAVEL / Zimbabwe<br />
“One of the first things you do<br />
as a tourist here is marvel at the<br />
spectacular landscape”
TRAVEL / 31<br />
Balancing rockstones in<br />
Matobo National Park.
32 / TRAVEL / Zimbabwe
TRAVEL / 33<br />
Left page: The Chinhoyi<br />
Caves (top); Wall<br />
paintings at Matobo<br />
National Park (bottom<br />
left).<br />
Right: School<br />
children in Harare<br />
(left); Batik<br />
exhibit at the<br />
National Gallery<br />
of Zimbabwe in<br />
Harare (right).<br />
Alamy<br />
“The World Heritage Site hides spectacular<br />
caves with well-preserved wall paintings”<br />
are another highlight. “I feel so proud when I walk among<br />
these amazing structures,” says Zimbabwean tourist Ashok<br />
Kuwana, while pointing at the “Great Enclosure”, which has<br />
walls as high as 10 m extending approximately 250 m, making<br />
it the largest ancient structure south of the Sahara Desert.<br />
“These sophisticated constructions prove to the world that<br />
our ancestors were already excellent designers,” he adds with<br />
a grin. The ancient city was once the capital of a great empire<br />
stretching into what are now Zimbabwe and Mozambique,<br />
and counted no less than 18,000 inhabitants between the<br />
13th and 17th centuries.<br />
While visiting the small museum, we read about former<br />
inhabitants and admire the discovered artefacts like ivory,<br />
gold, glass beads, jewellery and Chinese porcelain, proving<br />
that the city formed part of a trade network extending as far<br />
as China. We learn that dzimba-dza-mabwe from the Karanga<br />
dialect of local Shona language means “large houses of stone”.<br />
After the ruins of Great Zimbabwe became an important<br />
symbol of achievement for black nationalist groups in the<br />
1970s, the country’s new leaders decided to change the<br />
country’s name from Rhodesia to Zimbabwe (when reaching<br />
independence in 1980). In the museum we also view the<br />
famous soapstone bird sculptures, recovered from the site,<br />
which became a national symbol and have even been depicted<br />
in the new Zimbabwean flag.<br />
The car park in Great Zimbabwe offers another – to some<br />
less pleasant – surprise: the place is populated with hundreds<br />
of Vervet monkeys. Two of them have settled down on our<br />
car; one has just pooped on our roof and is now peeking<br />
through our windshield, looking for something to eat, while<br />
the other one is chewing our antenna. When we try to chase<br />
them away, they start hissing at us revealing their sharp teeth.<br />
So keep everything valuable and edible inside your car, as<br />
absolutely nothing is safe from these furry thieves.<br />
RURAL BEAUTY<br />
In Matobo National Park, which is one of the unsung<br />
highlights of Zimbabwe, a bizarre and stunning landscape of<br />
balancing rocks – giant boulders unfeasibly teetering on top<br />
of one another – stretches out as far as the eye can see. Some<br />
of the most majestic granite sceneries in the world make it<br />
easy to understand why this is considered the spiritual home<br />
of Zimbabwe.<br />
The World Heritage Site hides spectacular caves with<br />
well-preserved wall paintings – made by the area’s first<br />
inhabitants, the San people – of galloping giraffes, zebras<br />
and elephants, which are estimated to be 13,000 years old. ><br />
Some facts about Zimbabwe<br />
The name “Zimbabwe”, derived from<br />
dzimba-dza-mabwe in the Karanga dialect<br />
of local Shona language, meaning “large<br />
houses of stone”, comes from Great<br />
Zimbabwe, an ancient city built in the<br />
medieval times that is now a UNESCO<br />
World Heritage Site.<br />
The design of the stone-carved Zimbabwe<br />
Bird – the national emblem of Zimbabwe<br />
– is derived from a number of soapstone<br />
sculptures found in the ruins of the<br />
ancient city of Great Zimbabwe.<br />
During the end of the wet season – when<br />
the Zambezi River is at its peak – roughly<br />
625 million litres of water per minute<br />
flow over the edge of the Victoria Falls,<br />
producing a spray that rises up to 500 m.<br />
Zimbabweans mostly call every kind of<br />
toothpaste “Colgate”, every soft drink<br />
“Coke”, every washing powder “Surf”<br />
and every floor polish “Cobra”.<br />
The mbira, which is a small hand-held<br />
instrument, has been played for more<br />
than 1,000 years in Zimbabwe. This<br />
instrument is also commonly referred to<br />
as a “thumb piano”.<br />
As most men in the world try to trade their<br />
large tummies for flat ones, the opposite<br />
is true in Zimbabwe. Zimbabweans see<br />
men’s potbellies as a sign of success and<br />
wealth.
34 / TRAVEL / Zimbabwe<br />
Left: Elephant Camp<br />
lodge (top); Hwange<br />
National Park (bottom<br />
and right page).<br />
“Breathlessly, we enjoy a scene<br />
that is reminiscent of a wide shot from a<br />
wildlife television series”<br />
Vibrant Harare<br />
Often overlooked by people heading<br />
out on safaris elsewhere in the country,<br />
Zimbabwe’s capital Harare is a vibrant<br />
city that can easily hold its own against<br />
the metropolises of other African<br />
countries. Visit the National Gallery of<br />
Zimbabwe, which features traditional<br />
Shona stone sculptures and paintings<br />
by local artists. Have a picnic at the<br />
beautiful National Botanic Gardens. Visit<br />
the 81,000 sq-m Chapungu Sculpture<br />
Park that promotes stone sculptors from<br />
Zimbabwe and other African artists. Relax<br />
your body and mind at the Amanzi Health<br />
Spa, a quiet sanctuary located among<br />
flowing water features, gardens and a<br />
pool deck. Go shopping at the well-known<br />
Sam Levy’s Village, designed to look like<br />
an old European village where shoppers<br />
walk along brick paving between stores.<br />
End your day at the Tin Roof Bucket Bar<br />
and Bistro. Great food and good music<br />
make this one of the best places to go to<br />
in Harare for a fun night out.<br />
The reserve is also home to one third of the world’s<br />
species of eagles, a large population of black and white<br />
rhinos and the highest density of leopards in the country.<br />
The Chinhoyi Caves, famous for their bright blue lake,<br />
should be on every visitor’s itinerary as well. While gradually<br />
descending through a cathedral-like rock tunnel, you will<br />
suddenly spot the azure-blue Sleeping Pool, where enormous<br />
fish swim in the bright water. For US$100 per person you are<br />
even allowed to scuba dive in the 90-m deep pool. Looking<br />
through narrow slits in the higher so-called Dark Cave, you<br />
can spot the blue water of the lower Sleeping Pool, which<br />
with the terracotta rock and mineral formations creates a<br />
mysterious spectacle.<br />
For wildlife, tourists should consider the magnificent<br />
2,200 sq-km Mana Pools National Park where you’re almost<br />
guaranteed close encounters with plenty of hippos, crocodiles,<br />
zebras and elephants. Visitors can also experience lions and<br />
possibly wild dogs, leopards and cheetahs too. What sets this<br />
UNESCO World Heritage Site apart from just about any<br />
other park in the world is the option to walk around on foot<br />
without a guide.<br />
AMONG THE HERDS<br />
Another location worthy of a place in your schedule is<br />
the Hwange National Park (in the North West), which is<br />
famous for its immense elephant herds. When we visit this<br />
large reserve – occupying roughly 14,650 sq km – we spot<br />
over 15 of these giant beasts as they enjoy a bath while filling<br />
their trunks with mud and spraying it on their backs and<br />
bellies. Some calves gambol through the muddy water. Two<br />
males watch us closely. Breathlessly, we enjoy a scene that is<br />
reminiscent of a wide shot from a wildlife television series.<br />
We rest at the Sinamatella Camp, a lodge and campsite<br />
located on a cliff in the north of the reserve. The amazing<br />
view over the surrounding jungle is the perfect complement<br />
to a glass of wine. Here you can listen to roaring lions while<br />
watching the red-coloured sun descend into the horizon.<br />
➔<br />
Plan your trip<br />
Book your flight to Harare (daily flights)<br />
and Victoria Falls (Mondays, Thursdays,<br />
Saturdays) on kenya-airways.com.
TRAVEL / 35
36 / PEOPLE / Movie stars<br />
Shooting<br />
Stars<br />
We celebrate FIVE NAMES that<br />
are making Hollywood and Africa proud.<br />
Our pick of MOVIE TALENT from<br />
the continent.<br />
text Regina Jane Jere<br />
Lupita<br />
Nyong’o<br />
Discipline<br />
Actor<br />
Country<br />
Mexico/Kenya<br />
Born<br />
1 March 1983 (Mexico City)<br />
Alma Mater<br />
Yale School of Drama, Connecticut<br />
Milestone<br />
12 Years a Slave<br />
THE UNFORGETTABLE FILM 12 Years a<br />
Slave propelled Lupita Nyong’o to Hollywood fame.<br />
Her portrayal of Patsey – a slave working on a<br />
cotton plantation – was so convincing and poignant<br />
that, despite being a Hollywood newbie, Nyong’o<br />
went on to win the coveted Oscar for Best Supporting<br />
Actress in 2014, entering the annals of history when<br />
she said (during her acceptance speech), “When I<br />
look down at this golden statue, may it remind me<br />
and every little child that no matter where you’re<br />
from your dreams are valid.”<br />
But while she’s achieved international fame in<br />
a short time, this daughter of Kenya cut her teeth<br />
in her homeland. Many Africans still fondly recall<br />
when she starred in popular MTV soap Shuga<br />
(between 2009 and 2012), which highlighted the<br />
sexual lives and health of Kenyan youths.<br />
Nyong’o is not just a successful actress. Back in<br />
2007, she wrote, produced and directed the awardwinning<br />
documentary, In My Genes; a moving<br />
exposé about the plight of Kenyans afflicted with<br />
genetic condition albinism, the absence of pigment<br />
in the skin, hair and eyes.<br />
Now based in New York, this flourishing actress<br />
has gone on to star in high-grossing movies such as:<br />
Star Wars: The Force Awakens; Non-Stop (with<br />
Liam Neeson); The Jungle Book and Queen of<br />
Katwe. Nyong’o has just completed filming Star<br />
Wars: The Last Jedi and the comic-book thriller<br />
adaptation, Black Panther, which also stars her<br />
fellow Africans, Danai Gurira and Isaac de Bankolé.
PEOPLE / 37<br />
“No matter where<br />
you’re from, your<br />
dreams are valid”<br />
Hollandse Hoogte
38 / PEOPLE / Movie stars<br />
Isaach de<br />
Bankolé<br />
Discipline<br />
Actor<br />
Country<br />
Côte d’Ivoire<br />
Born<br />
12 August 1957 (Abidjan)<br />
Alma Mater<br />
University of Paris<br />
Milestone<br />
Black Mic Mac<br />
Getty Images<br />
De Bankolé studied as an airline pilot and<br />
holds a master’s degree in mathematics<br />
ISAACH DE BANKOLÉ has been on the Hollywood<br />
circuit for some time with roles in blockbusters such as<br />
Casino Royale, Ghost Dog: The Way of the Samurai, and<br />
The Skeleton Key.<br />
In 1986 he won a César Award (French Oscars) for Most<br />
Promising Actor for his role as Lemi in Black Mic Mac. De<br />
Bankolé has also appeared in TV series such as The Sopranos,<br />
The Young Indiana Jones Chronicles and 24.<br />
In a review for his role in the acclaimed 2014 movie<br />
Mirage – in which he plays an African football player who<br />
ends up in a modern slave camp – the online magazine<br />
Shadow and Act described de Bankolé as, “an actor who<br />
works internationally, and seemingly isn’t limited by any<br />
boundaries.”<br />
He’s just finished playing the role of a River Tribe Elder in<br />
the much-anticipated blockbuster Black Panther (due out in<br />
2018). He can also be seen alongside Richard Gere in<br />
Norman: The Moderate Rise and Tragic Fall of a New York<br />
Fixer, which was released in April.<br />
De Bankolé is not just an actor; he has also studied as an<br />
airline pilot and holds a master’s degree in mathematics from<br />
the University of Paris.<br />
With 45 movie and TV roles to his name since debuting in<br />
1984 film The Syringe, this acting powerhouse – who looks<br />
young despite his years – shows no signs of slowing down.
PEOPLE / 39<br />
Amma<br />
Asante<br />
Discipline<br />
Screenwriter, director<br />
Country<br />
UK/Ghana<br />
Born<br />
13 September 1969 (London)<br />
Alma Mater<br />
The Barbara Speake Stage School, London<br />
Milestone<br />
A Way of Life<br />
Hazel Thompson<br />
Asante is now one of the most respected<br />
people in the movie industry<br />
THE AWARD-WINNING SCREENWRITER and<br />
director Amma Asante has come a long way in the film world.<br />
It all started when Asante left acting in her teens to work as<br />
a screenwriter. From there she founded production company,<br />
Tantrum Films, and wrote and produced two series of the<br />
BBC2 drama Brothers and Sisters. Her rise to global fame<br />
began in earnest in 2004, when she made her directorial debut<br />
at the Toronto Film Festival with A Way of Life, a film about<br />
race and marginalisation in Britain. The film bagged her the<br />
Carl Foreman Award for Special Achievement by a British<br />
Director, Writer or Producer in their First Feature Film at the<br />
2005 BAFTAs. In the same year, she won a Grand Jury Prize<br />
at the Miami International Film Festival. Not bad for a rookie.<br />
Last year, A United Kingdom – the gripping story of<br />
“forbidden interracial love” between Botswana’s first<br />
president and his English wife – opened the 60th BFI<br />
London Film Festival (a first for a black person in the<br />
BFI’s 60-year history).<br />
Fast-forward to <strong>2017</strong> and Asante is now one of the most<br />
respected people in the movie industry. She even has influence<br />
as a voting member of the white-male-dominated American<br />
Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences.<br />
Asante’s recognition as an immense talent is not<br />
restricted to Hollywood. She also won the admiration of<br />
Queen Elizabeth II of England, who honoured her with an<br />
MBE last June “for her contribution to film”.
40 / PEOPLE / Movie stars<br />
Danai<br />
Gurira<br />
Discipline<br />
Playwright, actor<br />
Country<br />
US/Zimbabwe<br />
Born<br />
14 February 1978 (Iowa)<br />
Alma Mater<br />
Tisch School of the Arts, New York University,<br />
New York<br />
Milestone<br />
The Walking Dead<br />
Debby Wong<br />
Gurira is also the accomplished playwright behind<br />
the Broadway play Eclipsed<br />
TO KEEN FANS of highly rated TV series The Walking<br />
Dead, Danai Gurira is famous for her role as the dreadlockwearing,<br />
sword-bearing Michonne. But Gurira is also the<br />
accomplished playwright behind the Tony Award-winning<br />
Broadway play Eclipsed.<br />
Following its debut on Broadway in 2016, the play (about<br />
the harrowing journey women went through during the civil<br />
war in Liberia) caught the attention of the rich and famous,<br />
including Oprah Winfrey and Stevie Wonder. Eclipsed had<br />
an all-African female cast, which included Lupita Nyong’o,<br />
Saycon Sengbloh, Akosua Busia, Zainab Jah and Pascale<br />
Armand.<br />
Giving a voice to those less fortunate is another of Gurira’s<br />
passions. She co-founded the Zimbabwe-based theatre<br />
organisation Almasi Arts Alliance whose mission is to<br />
promote African dramatic artists via training, mentorship<br />
and assisting access, while building the dramatic arts industry<br />
in Africa and taking those artistic voices all the way to<br />
Hollywood audiences.<br />
In her latest film role she plays Afeni, a former Black<br />
Panther activist and mother of the late Tupac Shakur in<br />
All Eyez On Me: the biopic about the popular American<br />
hip-hop star who was killed in a drive-by shooting in 1996.<br />
Gurira recently finished filming the upcoming comic-book<br />
adaptation Black Panther, in which she plays the role of<br />
Okoye, the head of the king’s all-female special forces unit.
PEOPLE / 41<br />
Mugambi<br />
Nthiga<br />
Discipline<br />
Actor, writer, director<br />
Country<br />
Kenya<br />
Born<br />
10 June 1980 (Nairobi)<br />
Alma Mater<br />
Syracuse University, New York<br />
Milestone<br />
Kati Kati<br />
Joshua Obaga<br />
“Here we are, occupying the world stage and<br />
being storytellers of renown”<br />
THE AMBITIOUS ACTOR, writer and director<br />
Mugambi Nthiga is truly the one-to-watch. After joining<br />
Philadelphia’s acting scene during the 2008 recession –<br />
appearing in independent stage plays and short films – Nthiga<br />
is now a movie industry influencer in his own right.<br />
Kati Kati – a film he co-wrote with fellow Kenyan Mbithi<br />
Masya (who also directed it) – premiered at the 2016 Toronto<br />
International Film Festival where it won the International<br />
Critics’ Award. “That was quite an affirmation. Kati Kati is<br />
still doing the festival rounds, and we are grateful that<br />
audiences from all over the world can see it,” says Nthiga.<br />
About the afterlife, Kati Kati also won best film at<br />
Sweden’s <strong>2017</strong> CinemAfrica Festival and the <strong>2017</strong> New<br />
Voices/New Visions Special Jury Prize at “the first stop on the<br />
road to the Academy Awards®” Palm Springs International<br />
Film Festival.<br />
“I grew up listening to and watching others’ stories on TV,<br />
in cinemas, on the radio and in books and magazines,” says<br />
Nthiga. “They were curated and presented with the sort of<br />
expertise I never thought possible for Kenya. Decades later,<br />
here we are, occupying the world stage and being storytellers<br />
of renown.”<br />
But is Nthiga drawn to the allure of Hollywood? “I’d love<br />
to get there and own a significant level of control over the<br />
acting work I do: inspiring, thought-provoking, memorable.<br />
It’s a heck of a pipe dream, but where would we be without<br />
those?” he concludes.
42 / BUSINESS / Country at a glance<br />
At a glance<br />
Republic of Botswana<br />
Have a closer look at the potential of Botswana.<br />
The most relevant FACTS AND FIGURES,<br />
touristic attractions and social trends of today.<br />
text Desiree Hoving infographics Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism<br />
Sources: CIA The World Factbook, Greenwich Mean Time, Wikipedia<br />
Official name Republic of Botswana<br />
Population 2.2 million people<br />
GDP US$ 35.9 billion<br />
Capital Gaborone<br />
Currency Pula<br />
Local time GMT+2<br />
Neighbouring<br />
1,000 km<br />
countries South Africa, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Zambia<br />
Main<br />
languages Setswana (spoken by the majority), English<br />
(official language), Sekalanga<br />
Flights Book your flight to Gaborone on kenya-airways.com<br />
Democracy<br />
Botswana is a politically<br />
stable country with Africa’s<br />
longest surviving<br />
democracy.<br />
Short border<br />
The border between Botswana<br />
and Zambia is only 150 m,<br />
which makes it the shortest<br />
border in the world.<br />
PASSPORT<br />
GDP divided<br />
in sectors<br />
Industry*<br />
29.8%<br />
8.6%<br />
11.3%<br />
4.3%<br />
10<br />
8<br />
Services*<br />
Striped<br />
Zebra is the national animal of Botswana,<br />
because of the impressive zebra<br />
migration.<br />
6<br />
4<br />
2<br />
68.4%<br />
Source: CIA The World Factbook<br />
1,8%<br />
Agriculture*<br />
’10<br />
1.7%<br />
’12 ’14 ’16 ’18 ’20<br />
GDP growth compared to the<br />
previous year in Botswana<br />
(in percentages)<br />
0<br />
-2<br />
*2016<br />
Money<br />
Pula, the name of the<br />
currency, means “rain” and<br />
refers to the preciousness<br />
of money as Botswana<br />
does not get a lot of rain.<br />
Source: Lonely Planet, Wikipedia
Angola<br />
Zambia<br />
3. Shortest border in the world<br />
BUSINESS / 43<br />
Namibia<br />
TSODILO HILLS<br />
1. Tsodilo Hills contain more than<br />
4,000 prehistoric rock paintings<br />
spread over 200 sites (UNESCO<br />
World Heritage listed)<br />
2. Okavango Delta is one of the world’s<br />
largest inland deltas with vast quantities<br />
of wildlife (UNESCO World Heritage listed)<br />
OKAVANGO<br />
DELTA<br />
CENTRAL<br />
KALAHARI<br />
GAME<br />
RESERVE<br />
CHOBE<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
A<br />
B O T S W A N<br />
NXAI PANS<br />
4. Chobe National Park<br />
has the world’s largest<br />
MAKGADIKGADI PANS<br />
concentration<br />
of African<br />
elephants<br />
5. The Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pans<br />
are the largest network of salt flats<br />
in the world<br />
Top five countries imported goods<br />
1. S-Africa 4.45 billion<br />
2. Namibia 1.12 billion<br />
3. Canada 510 million<br />
4. Unspecified 466 million<br />
5. Belgium 210 million<br />
Import<br />
Export<br />
6. Central Kalahari Game Reserve, one of<br />
Africa’s largest protected areas, is in the<br />
middle of the desert and is home to blackmaned<br />
Kalahari lions<br />
1. Diamonds: non-industrial, unworked<br />
or simply sawn<br />
2. Petroleum oils, etc., (excl. crude); preparation<br />
3. Diamonds: unsorted, whether or not worked<br />
4. Diamonds: industrial, unworked or simply sawn<br />
5. Automobiles with reciprocating piston engine<br />
1. Diamonds: non-industrial, unworked<br />
or simply sawn<br />
2. Diamonds: non-industrial, nes excluding mounted o<br />
3. Nickel mattes<br />
Top five countries exported goods<br />
4. Ignition wiring sets & oth wiring sets of a kind<br />
1. Belgium 1.25 billion<br />
5. Fresh or chilled boneless bovine meat<br />
2. S-Africa 988 million<br />
3. India 784 million<br />
4. Namibia 745 million<br />
5. Canada 397 million numbers in US$<br />
2.32 trillion<br />
767.97 billion<br />
356.01 billion<br />
209.94 billion<br />
126.62 billion<br />
4.76 trillion<br />
442.63 billion<br />
320.46 billion<br />
102.48 billion<br />
62.48 billion<br />
Sources: WITS (wits.worldbank.org/countrysnapshot/en/BWA/textview) Source: Lonely Planet
44 / BUSINESS / Interview<br />
IN OUR<br />
HANDS<br />
It’s almost 100 days since Sebastian Mikosz<br />
took over as Kenya Airways’ Managing<br />
Director and CEO. Famed for returning LOT<br />
Polish Airlines to profitability, Mikosz must lead<br />
KQ through challenging times.<br />
text Jackson Biko photography Jeroen van Loon
BUSINESS / 45<br />
we employ certain measures, things will<br />
start working again. We cannot, and we<br />
should not, focus on blaming external<br />
factors because people are very good<br />
at finding excuses. Unfortunately, the<br />
market will not wait for us; the market<br />
will evolve. We must adapt.<br />
Now you’re at the helm of KQ’s<br />
recovery, how do you feel about the<br />
airline’s current position?<br />
I have two feelings: surprise and<br />
frustration. I’m still discovering the<br />
company, but I’ve been surprised to<br />
find so many positives that I didn’t<br />
expect, in particular the intellectual<br />
equity of this airline. There’s talent<br />
here across the board. The technicians,<br />
sales people, the pilots – to name but a<br />
few – are all very good. Given that the<br />
company has been struggling, I wasn’t<br />
expecting resources like these. I think<br />
this is the biggest asset we have.<br />
The frustration comes from my<br />
struggle to understand why KQ is not<br />
the best airline in Africa. I’m frustrated<br />
with the things that aren’t working that<br />
should be working. That these problems<br />
are from inside, rather than outside, also<br />
frustrates me. However, both of these<br />
emotions also motivate me. I enjoy my<br />
job immensely.<br />
What did you learn from the experience<br />
at LOT, and is there any comparison<br />
with KQ?<br />
The number of similarities between<br />
the two airlines are really so astonishing<br />
that it feels like déjà vu. I know that if<br />
Age<br />
44<br />
Favourite destination<br />
Paris<br />
First impression of Kenya<br />
It’s safe<br />
One travel tip<br />
Separate your credit cards into two wallets<br />
Hobbies<br />
Swimming with my three sons<br />
Best book on a long haul<br />
The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho<br />
Maxim for doing business<br />
Efficiency follows strategy<br />
Are we going to expect some tough<br />
love, you know, some very unpopular<br />
measures that you have to take?<br />
Undoubtedly. I’m in the honeymoon<br />
period and people still like me, but this<br />
period will soon end. One of the main<br />
things we have to change is accepting<br />
the unacceptable. We must start making<br />
people accountable for what we know is<br />
happening. Given the financial situation<br />
we are in, given the competition that<br />
surrounds us, my decisions will often be<br />
unpopular.<br />
Few people like change because<br />
change moves you out of your comfort<br />
zone. I’ve been doing this for many<br />
years. The board didn’t hire me to be<br />
popular; they hired me to be efficient.<br />
We work in a very tough, competitive<br />
industry where success requires an<br />
equally tough approach.<br />
to the East African market, which is<br />
almost a 130 million-strong population.<br />
Cooperation is key to development here.<br />
Overall, Africa is an uneven market so<br />
we have to be very careful. However, the<br />
GDP per capita will grow, meaning that<br />
people will have more money with which<br />
to buy airline tickets.<br />
What’s KQ’s role in furthering the<br />
future of Kenya, of Africa?<br />
I think it’s a very fundamental role.<br />
In today’s environment, airlines bring<br />
something that’s highly underestimated,<br />
which is connectivity. Can you imagine a<br />
world without KQ? Of course life will<br />
continue but we have to be cognisant of<br />
“My ambition is to at least double<br />
KQ’s size very quickly”<br />
What changes should we expect by the<br />
end of your first 100 days in office?<br />
I would like to bring the company<br />
into a new phase of its existence. I’m very<br />
lucky to benefit from my predecessor’s<br />
work. There’s a financial restructuring<br />
in the offing and this will mark a new<br />
opening for the company, a new lease of<br />
life. The Kenyan Government, as well as<br />
KLM and several banks, have given us a<br />
second chance. The worst thing we could<br />
do is take this opportunity for granted.<br />
We have the right personnel and the<br />
support of our new chairman. I aim to<br />
reset some of the visions of the airline<br />
and motivate employees by showing<br />
them that we have a new and better<br />
chance on the table that we should take<br />
full advantage of.<br />
What’s your take on the aviation space<br />
in Africa, and what opportunities do<br />
you see for the airline?<br />
We must not look at Africa as a<br />
single entity, but rather as a sum of its<br />
parts. I’m looking at what we can bring<br />
economic competitiveness; how do we<br />
connect to the world competitively? I see<br />
my job, and the KQ mission, as much<br />
broader than just being a company; KQ’s<br />
also a champion of Kenya’s attraction as<br />
a tourist and business destination.<br />
What is your personal ambition<br />
here at KQ?<br />
My ambition is to at least double<br />
KQ’s size very quickly. Again, I’m very<br />
lucky to have arrived at the end of a<br />
process that should open the door again<br />
to growth. If I need to restructure and<br />
take tough decisions I will. The whole<br />
purpose is to grow. You don’t make<br />
airlines greater by shrinking them.<br />
What would you like to tell the guests<br />
who fly with you?<br />
I’d like to say thank you for<br />
continuing to fly with us. Loyalty in<br />
business is very important. We aim to<br />
repay this loyalty not only by improving<br />
our service, but also by creating a new<br />
benchmark in the industry.
46 / TREND / Youth employment<br />
Our Biggest<br />
Asset<br />
In Africa, private-sector companies<br />
are finding ways to get YOUNG<br />
PEOPLE EMPLOYED, or<br />
to encourage entrepreneurship.<br />
text Nina Siegal<br />
AS A STUDENT at Kenyatta University in Nairobi, Ruth<br />
Wachira (now 26) says she was often preoccupied with angst<br />
about what would happen to her after graduation.<br />
“I was always worried about getting a job, always anxious,<br />
always thinking about my future after campus,” says the<br />
Nairobi native. “I thought that I didn’t have enough hands-on<br />
experience, or that the experience I did have wouldn’t meet the<br />
requirements of the industry.”<br />
BRAIN DRAIN<br />
Wachira had good reason to be concerned. According to<br />
the <strong>2017</strong> Economic Survey (conducted by the Kenya National<br />
Bureau of Statistics), there are 80,000 jobs available in the<br />
formal (professional) sector, while 510,000 students are<br />
currently enrolled in Kenyan universities. Although many<br />
students drop out, this disparity means that many of those<br />
who do graduate must settle for a job beneath their station if<br />
they get one at all. A 2016 Labour Market Profile of Kenya<br />
found that the unemployment rate among Kenyan youth aged<br />
15 to 24 was 18 percent, compared to that of the overall<br />
population, which stands at 9.2 percent.<br />
This dearth of opportunity is not only a problem for<br />
young candidates, it’s also cause for concern for the nation:<br />
some of the most qualified university graduates have to<br />
seek employment abroad, and many of them, once settled<br />
elsewhere, don’t return. This results in a “brain drain” from<br />
the continent, because the most talented and capable young<br />
people are investing their energies and skills elsewhere, rather<br />
than helping to improve Africa.<br />
The situation in Kenya is representative of the job ><br />
Youth Programmes<br />
IBM Digital Nation Africa promotes<br />
digital literacy among youth,<br />
empowering them for work, leisure,<br />
education and participation in<br />
society. digitalnationafrica.com<br />
Safaricom Be Your Own Boss has<br />
created the BLAZE youth network,<br />
mentorships and professional<br />
summits, to help give youth access<br />
to opportunities. blaze.co.ke/byob<br />
KCB 2Jiajiri is a skills development,<br />
jobs and scholarship programme<br />
by the KCB Foundation that seeks<br />
to catalyse employment and wealth<br />
creation among youth.<br />
kcbgroup.com<br />
Youth Business Trust Kenya, part<br />
of a global network of independent<br />
non-profit initiatives, helps young<br />
people to start and grow their own<br />
business and create employment.<br />
youthbusiness.org
Alamy<br />
TREND / 47
48 / TREND / Youth employment<br />
Alamy<br />
“Our new goal is to actively<br />
connect graduates with the<br />
IBM ecosystem”<br />
– John Matogo, IBM –<br />
landscape for young people across Africa, says Franklyn Lisk,<br />
a visiting Professorial Research Fellow at the Centre for the<br />
Study of Globalisation and Regionalisation at the University<br />
of Warwick, UK. According to Lisk, about 12 million young<br />
African men and women enter the labour market every year,<br />
but there are nowhere near enough jobs for them all. “We know<br />
that Africans with good education and skills are leaving Africa<br />
for opportunity,” says Lisk. “They’re doing very well. I know<br />
several young African millionaires in the US, for example. Our<br />
problem is not talent; Africa has young people who are creative<br />
and dynamic. We need to harness their creativity and get them<br />
to be part of the overall economic system.”<br />
ECONOMIC WARNING<br />
Anyone worried about Africa’s future should be concerned<br />
with creating opportunities for the youth. “Jobs have to be<br />
found, or business opportunities created,” says Lisk. “If the<br />
economy is not growing, those young people will have nothing<br />
to latch onto. And on the supply side, we have to ensure that<br />
young people have the right types of skills to match the needs<br />
of the growing economy.”<br />
Ruth Wachira was one of the lucky ones. The daughter of<br />
a hairdresser and a repairman, she had always done well in<br />
the sciences at school, and her parents were supportive of her<br />
education, encouraging her to become a doctor. After seeing<br />
how much people appreciated her father’s electrical work,<br />
she was more interested in electrical engineering. When she<br />
reached university, however, she became more intrigued by<br />
software than hardware, so she changed her major to<br />
computer sciences.<br />
Towards the end of her education, while she was putting<br />
together her job portfolio, Wachira learned about something<br />
called the IBM Youth Initiative, a programme that provides<br />
on-the-job training and mentorship for students interested in<br />
employment in technologies. “I jumped at the opportunity,”<br />
she says. Wachira passed an acceptance exam and joined the<br />
programme in March 2015, where she got the hands-on skills<br />
training that she’d worried about previously. Later, she says,<br />
“I was contacted by IBM who informed me that because of<br />
my success on the course, my project leader had recommended<br />
that I be absorbed into the office in Nairobi.” Right out of<br />
school, Wachira had a job at IBM, working in the Intelligence<br />
Operations Centre, creating software solutions.<br />
This programme is part of IBM’s Africa Skills Initiative, a<br />
continent-wide effort to train 35,000 African students through<br />
100 African universities within three years. Announced in<br />
2014, the programme had an initial investment of US$60<br />
million. The rollout began in 2015, and by the end of 2016,
TREND / 49<br />
some 20,000 students across Africa were participating. Of<br />
these, about 5,300 were in Kenya (including Wachira) according<br />
to IBM.<br />
THE IBM ECOSYSTEM<br />
According to John Matogo, University Relations Leader<br />
for IBM in East Africa and the sole full-time coordinator<br />
of the youth training programme in the region, preparing<br />
applicants like Wachira for the job market is only part of the<br />
solution. “Our new goal is to actively connect these graduates<br />
with the IBM ecosystem so as to help them secure gainful<br />
job opportunities,” he says.<br />
Building on its Skills Initiative, in February this year, IBM<br />
launched “IBM Digital Nation Africa”, which – with an<br />
additional US$70 million investment – will provide free<br />
skills-development programmes for up to 25 million African<br />
youths over five years, enabling digital competence and<br />
nurturing innovation in Africa.<br />
These IBM initiatives are just some of the many privatesector<br />
efforts that address the problem of youth employment<br />
in Africa. While IBM focuses on helping young people gain<br />
skills to make them more employable, other programmes are<br />
trying to jumpstart entrepreneurship among young people, so<br />
they can be their own bosses, and eventually future employers.<br />
These include Safaricom’s Be Your Own Boss programme, a<br />
series of youth mentorship summits.<br />
ENTREPRENEURSHIP<br />
In 2016, 44,000 people attended six youth-mentorship events<br />
to learn from other young professionals how to develop their<br />
skills and promote their businesses. Following that initiative,<br />
Safaricom created the Be Your Own Boss reality show on its<br />
Blaze youth network, in which young entrepreneurs compete to<br />
win financial support for their fledgling enterprises. Twelve<br />
contestants from across Kenya competed to create a working<br />
business during the eight-episode show, which attracted one<br />
million viewers.<br />
Charles Wanjohi, Head of Consumer Segments Marketing<br />
for Safaricom, says the company is now planning to go a step<br />
further by creating a series of business boot camps to give<br />
young people the step-by-step skills needed to establish a<br />
successful enterprise. “You have a huge pool of people who are<br />
available for the job market, but there are not enough positions<br />
for them. The question for us is: how do we empower these<br />
young people with the skills to help them become employed?”<br />
Once young people have good ideas and the skills to create<br />
their own businesses, they can feel ready to work. “However,<br />
there is usually one major hurdle: they lack access to financing,”<br />
says Joshua Oigara, Group CEO and Managing Director of<br />
Kenya Central Bank (KCB). “It’s a Catch-22: they can’t start<br />
a business because they don’t have funds and they can’t get<br />
funds because they have no history with financiers.”<br />
KCB is trying to address this problem with its new<br />
youth-empowerment programme, 2Jiajiri, which will see an<br />
investment of US$500 million in the next five years. Through<br />
2Jiajiri, young people get technical and vocational training,<br />
access to financial services and enterprise management support<br />
from skilled professionals within KCB’s Business Development<br />
and Advisory services unit. The programme seeks to empower<br />
10,000 youths every year to start small businesses that will<br />
employ at least five people each. The KCB Foundation hopes<br />
to scale up the beneficiaries to 100,000 annually, which would<br />
create at least one million job opportunities by 2020. “Three<br />
out of every four people in Kenya is a young person,” says<br />
Oigara. “Our youth are therefore critical players in the social,<br />
economic and political future of our country.”<br />
42.5<br />
Expected population growth (in millions) of<br />
young people in Africa from 2010 to 2020 –<br />
a tremendous growth in workforce<br />
12%<br />
The youth unemployment rate in<br />
Sub-Saharan Africa<br />
40,000<br />
Number of people who attended the Be Your<br />
Own Boss youth-mentorship summits in 2016<br />
20,000<br />
Number of students participating in IBM’s<br />
Africa Skills Initiative (by the end of 2016)<br />
38%<br />
of youths in Sub-Saharan Africa demonstrated<br />
a willingness to move permanently to another<br />
country for work in 2015<br />
~ Franklyn Lisk, a visiting Professorial Research Fellow at the<br />
Centre for the Study of Globalisation and Regionalisation at the<br />
University of Warwick, UK.<br />
sources: The World Bank, International Labour Organisation
Tips / BUSINESS / 51<br />
How to<br />
Get Things<br />
Done<br />
Don’t work MORE, work<br />
BETTER. Productivity<br />
tips to keep you on top of<br />
your to-dos.<br />
text Annemarie Hoeve illustration Edith Carron<br />
Pre-work workout<br />
1 A moderate 20-minute workout is<br />
known to boost cognitive function,<br />
productivity and generally prompts a<br />
more active mental mode. The effects are<br />
immediate. So instead of finishing off<br />
your day at the gym, it’s better to plan a<br />
quick session first thing or at lunch. But<br />
don’t push yourself too hard; aim to<br />
energise, not exhaust.<br />
Go with the flow<br />
2 You’re at your most productive when<br />
in a state of “flow” – that elusive place<br />
of immersion in the task at hand. How<br />
to achieve that? Schedule slots of 50<br />
minutes at a time for monotasking. Cut<br />
out all distractions; once your focus is<br />
broken, it can take up to 25 minutes to<br />
regain concentration.<br />
More deadlines<br />
3 Nothing drives focus like a deadline.<br />
In the race against the clock, decisions<br />
can no longer be put off and there’s no<br />
time for slacking. Put the pressure on by<br />
setting due dates before the deadline or<br />
by breaking down projects into parts<br />
that require shorter deadlines.<br />
Theme by theme<br />
4 How do productivity heavyweights<br />
like Jack Dorsey do it? The Twitter CEO<br />
also runs financial services company<br />
Square. Giving every day a theme is his<br />
secret. So dedicate Mondays to tech,<br />
Tuesdays to marketing, Wednesdays to<br />
innovation and so on. By focusing and<br />
bundling, you can accomplish more per<br />
day, while covering everything in a week.<br />
Read all about it…<br />
These titles (all available<br />
online) offer in-depth<br />
insights.<br />
In Tinker, Dabble, Doodle,<br />
Try, Harvard psychiatrist Srini<br />
Pillay reveals how letting the<br />
mind wander can be more<br />
productive than staying<br />
focused.<br />
The Noisli app stimulates<br />
concentration with ambient<br />
background sounds ranging<br />
from wind, rain, forest or<br />
coffeeshop chatter. Make<br />
your own mix!<br />
The Tim Ferriss Show is a<br />
top-ranking productivity<br />
podcast with tips from<br />
famous guests. Ferriss<br />
also penned bestseller The<br />
4-Hour Workweek.
52 / BUSINESS / Tips<br />
How to<br />
Build a<br />
Successful<br />
Team<br />
Business is a TEAM SPORT.<br />
Having talented players alone<br />
isn’t enough; they have to<br />
work together well to score.<br />
Here’s how.<br />
text Annemarie Hoeve illustration Edith Carron<br />
Strength in diversity<br />
1 A good team is like a mosaic; each<br />
piece is different, but together, they make<br />
a perfect whole. To compose that dream<br />
team, choose a diverse mix of people:<br />
introverts, extroverts, analytical thinkers,<br />
creative sparks, and hands-on types. They<br />
can complement each other with their<br />
unique personalities and strengths.<br />
Define roles<br />
2 We all work best when we know who<br />
is doing what. That way no toes are<br />
stepped on and individuals can be held<br />
accountable. Giving people clear roles<br />
empowers them with responsibility,<br />
which is crucial to successful teams.<br />
Set goals<br />
3 Make them specific, challenging and<br />
attainable. Write a note. Research shows<br />
that putting goals into words makes the<br />
chances of achieving them 80 percent<br />
higher. Don’t only go for long-term goals.<br />
Realistic, short-term goals breed a sense<br />
of success and team spirit along the way.<br />
Be sure to celebrate those moments<br />
before moving on to the next target.<br />
Spend time together<br />
4 Shared lunch? Team building event?<br />
It doesn’t matter, so long as you do it<br />
together. A study from MIT’s Human<br />
Dynamics Laboratory shows that the<br />
most successful teams are the ones that<br />
communicate best during informal<br />
meetings.<br />
Read all about it…<br />
These titles (all available<br />
online) offer in-depth insights.<br />
Simon Sinek of Start With Why<br />
fame and one of the mostwatched<br />
TED speakers ever, is<br />
back again, now with Find Your<br />
Why, a hands-on workbook.<br />
Published in August, The<br />
Leadership of Teams. Authors<br />
Mike Brent and Fiona Elsa<br />
Dent explore what makes a<br />
successful team and how to<br />
collaborate.<br />
The 7 Secrets of Neuron<br />
Leadership combines insights<br />
from top leaders and the<br />
ancient Greeks on the topic of<br />
teamwork. By William C. Reed.<br />
Upcoming title The Power<br />
of Collaboration by Thea<br />
Singer Spitzer is a practical<br />
framework for creating<br />
successful teams based on<br />
interviews with influential<br />
Silicon Valley names.
54 / TRAVEL / Bangkok<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
4
TRAVEL / 55<br />
5<br />
Bangkok<br />
Secrets<br />
Bangkok was the MOST-VISITED<br />
CITY in the world last year, but it has<br />
a backstreet charm that is often<br />
overlooked. Here are six tips that will lead<br />
you to some of the most CHARMING<br />
SPOTS in the Thai capital.<br />
text Mark Eveleigh<br />
6<br />
LaPeet, Mark Eveleigh, Alamy, Getty Images<br />
1<br />
What to see<br />
The Grand Palace is a highlight of most Bangkok tours, and Wat<br />
Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) seems to shimmer as<br />
its soaring spires ascend to the heavens. Among the forest of selfie sticks,<br />
however, it can be hard to feel the spirituality of these places. For more<br />
peace head to nearby Wat Pho or cross the river to the lovely Wat Arun.<br />
Wat Prayurawongsawat, just downriver from here, is another enchanting<br />
temple that is almost completely overlooked by outsiders. And Wat Saket,<br />
with its curving stairway lined with prayer bells, is just as captivating.<br />
From here you can explore neighbouring Wat Ratchanaddaram in virtual<br />
solitude. ><br />
1. The interior of David Thompson’s restaurant Nahm 2. China Town 3. A woman<br />
paddling at the floating market 4. CAT Telecom Tower 5. Wat Phra Kaew 6. Phad thai,<br />
spring rolls, pancakes or fresh fruit, eateries dominate the street scene in Bangkok.
56 / TRAVEL / Bangkok<br />
Bonus tip<br />
The Grand Palace and Temple of the Emerald Buddha are relatively<br />
peaceful when the gates open at 8:30 a.m. Plan to arrive earlier to grab<br />
breakfast by the historic Chao Phraya River as it comes to life.<br />
2<br />
Where to drink<br />
Many visitors are lured to the City of Angels not just by tropical<br />
sunshine but also by the glimmer of nocturnal neon. As the sun<br />
begins to set, hip Thai professionals meet at the riverside terrace of The<br />
Never Ending Summer, a renovated ice warehouse that has retained most<br />
of its “cool” as a cocktail bar and restaurant. The streets around Khao<br />
San Road have a boisterous backpacker vibe all of their own but few<br />
farang (foreigners) find their way to the bohemian student bars and Thai<br />
live music venues along nearby Phra Athit Road. Ekkamai district has a<br />
chilled vibe and some secluded bars that are big local-favourites, and<br />
Quarter Thonglor is the place to hit if you want to see Bangkok’s rich<br />
and beautiful at play.<br />
Bonus tip<br />
Get high. Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar in the Marriot offers wonderful<br />
cocktails along with unforgettable 360° views from 45 storeys above the<br />
city. For something charmingly low-key, yet still high above Chinatown,<br />
try River Vibe. You know a place is off the tourist trail when even the<br />
tuk-tuk drivers have trouble finding it.<br />
3<br />
Where to stay<br />
There’s no shortage of accommodation that offers insight into the<br />
tropical charm of old Bangkok. The Siam, a delightful boutique<br />
hotel on the Chao Phraya River, boasts the luxurious Opium Spa, a retro<br />
cinema and even a gym with what is probably the world’s most stylish<br />
kick-boxing ring. If you want to go down the river to the city centre just<br />
hop on the private VIP launch. Chakrabongse Villas offers regal, historic<br />
suites – built by a prince – beside the river. Even after 140 years, Mandarin<br />
Oriental remains one of Bangkok’s finest hotels and the legendary authors’<br />
suites celebrate some of the great writers who have stayed there. They all<br />
have lavish bedrooms, lounge areas and Victorian-style bathrooms.<br />
Bonus tip<br />
No matter where you’re staying, be sure to visit The Jim Thompson House<br />
for a fascinating guided tour that will give you an insight into Thai homes<br />
as they used to be.<br />
4<br />
Where to eat<br />
Thai food is justly famous worldwide. Connoisseurs of the finest in<br />
Thai gastronomy should reserve a table at Nahm where Australian<br />
chef David Thompson creates culinary gems with a long-standing respect<br />
for ancient recipes. Na Aroon is an organic vegetarian restaurant that<br />
will also give you a clear insight into what authentic Thai cuisine is all<br />
about. Travellers who stay in the more touristy area around Khao San<br />
Road should check out the diminutive and quirky Joy Luck Club, where<br />
two sisters serve a timeless helping of Thai hospitality along with their ><br />
1. The Customs House 2. Main swimming pool at The Siam 3. Buddhist Bells in Wat<br />
Saket, popularly known as the Golden Mount 4. On the site at Wat Phra Kaew temple<br />
complex are altars where prayers can be made 5. Banks of the Chao Phraya river 6.<br />
Golden Mount 7. The infamous death line of ancient Siam to Burma (now Myanmar) in<br />
Kanchanaburi 8. A tuk-tuk driving through the city<br />
“Phad thai is the<br />
ideal fall-back plan if<br />
you’re not sure what<br />
to order”<br />
SLEEP<br />
The Siam<br />
3/2 Thanon Khao, Vachirapayabal,<br />
Dusit, Bangkok 10300<br />
thesiamhotel.com<br />
Chakrabongse Villas<br />
396 Maharaj Road, Bangkok 10200<br />
secret-retreats.com/chakrabongse<br />
Mandarin Oriental<br />
48 Oriental Avenue, Bangkok 10500<br />
mandarinoriental.com<br />
EAT & DRINK<br />
The Never Ending Summer<br />
41/5 Charoen Nakhon Rd, Khlong<br />
San, Bangkok 10600<br />
Nahm<br />
27 South Sathorn Rd,<br />
Bangkok 10500<br />
comohotels.com<br />
Na Aroon<br />
65 Sukhumvit Soi 1 Klongtoey Nua,<br />
Wattana, Bangkok 10110<br />
ariyasom.com<br />
Joy Luck Club<br />
18 Phra Sumen Rd, Chana<br />
Songkhram, Phra Nakhon,<br />
Bangkok 10200<br />
Sheepshank<br />
47 Phra Athit Rd, Chana Songkhram,<br />
Phra Nakhon, Bangkok 10200<br />
sheepshankpublichouse.com<br />
Waterways<br />
You don’t qualify as an old Bangkok<br />
hand unless you’ve sampled fried locusts<br />
and barbecued scorpion. Backyard<br />
Travel (backyardtravel.com) can arrange<br />
wonderfully insightful day trips around<br />
Bangkok’s waterways and colourful local<br />
markets. Be sure to enquire beforehand<br />
and you can arrange a bespoke private tour<br />
focussing only on the most thrilling aspects<br />
of the world’s most exciting city.
TRAVEL / 57<br />
2<br />
1 3<br />
4 7<br />
LaPeet, Mark Eveleigh, Alamy, Getty Images<br />
5 6 8
58 / TRAVEL / Bangkok<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
4<br />
7<br />
5 6 8<br />
LaPeet, Mark Eveleigh, Alamy, Getty Images, Stocksy
TRAVEL / 59<br />
Escape the city<br />
Bangkok’s Lumpini Park<br />
In the morning people gather to jog, practise<br />
tai chi, yoga, aerobics, play badminton or<br />
work-out at the (free) gyms. Throughout the<br />
day, this expanse of lawns, tropical gardens<br />
and waterways is an idyllic escape from the<br />
business district bustle.<br />
Santichaiprakarn Park<br />
Not exactly local, but Thais also seem<br />
to enjoy the free daily “circus” as hippy<br />
backpackers emerge to practise their<br />
juggling, yoga, meditation or even<br />
occasionally fire-breathing.<br />
Bang Krachao<br />
In this sleepy backcountry haven, situated<br />
in a curve of the Chao Phraya River south<br />
of the city centre, you can rent a bicycle to<br />
explore unexpectedly peaceful country lanes<br />
and the virtually unexplored Si Nakhon<br />
Khuean Khan Botanical Park.<br />
“You’ll rarely see a<br />
tourist at Wang<br />
Lang and many<br />
Bangkokians are not<br />
even aware of it”<br />
Getting there and around<br />
The Bangkok Airport Rail Link connects<br />
Suvarnabhumi International Airport<br />
with downtown Bangkok and is a smart<br />
alternative to the airport’s express buses or<br />
taxis. While the iconic tuk-tuks are surely the<br />
most exciting way to get across the city, they<br />
can be more expensive than taxis (especially<br />
in touristy areas). The skytrain is efficient and<br />
fast, but whenever possible take a chance to<br />
travel by water, either on the big commuter<br />
ferries or with a hired longtail boat.<br />
delicious home-cooked food. Or for an evening of cocktails and tapas,<br />
head to nearby Sheepshank in a renovated boat-repair yard next to Phra<br />
Athit Pier.<br />
Bonus tip<br />
Foreigners are sometimes nervous about the infamous fieriness of Thai<br />
food but phad thai (literally “fried Thai-style”) is the ideal fall-back plan<br />
if you’re not sure what to order. There are so many variations that you<br />
could eat phad thai every day and never have the same meal twice.<br />
5<br />
Where to snack<br />
Bangkok’s street food ranks among the best on the planet. If you<br />
find yourself in the business district on a weekday be sure to try<br />
Convent Road for some of the best street food you’ll ever eat. There’s a<br />
fantastic phad thai stall (only at lunchtime) and, in the evening, you can<br />
find everything from Indian roti, Chinese pork buns and Thai fishcakes.<br />
Chinatown is justly famous for great street food but in the evening, the<br />
Suan Plu neighbourhood – Soi 1 (Lane 1) is great for bars but Soi 8 is<br />
best for food – is even better and is definitely mai farang (not foreign<br />
biased). Be quick though: Bangkok’s city council has announced plans<br />
to ban street food stalls, so catch them while you can.<br />
Bonus tip<br />
Don’t hesitate to experiment. It’s a question of tastes but the banana<br />
pancakes with condensed milk are irresistible, and fried scorpion could<br />
be worth sampling just for the bragging rights when you get back home.<br />
6<br />
Where to shop<br />
Chatuchak Weekend Market (Kamphaeng Phet 2 Road) is the<br />
largest market in Thailand with over 8,000 stalls. Make a beeline<br />
for the art section for some great hole-in-the-wall coffee shops. After the<br />
tourists have left, many young Thais walk up the road to JJ Green Night<br />
Market. This stretch of vintage stalls opens about 5 p.m. and the vibrant<br />
bars remain busy until past midnight. On the west side of the river, near<br />
Siriraj Hospital you’ll find Wang Lang Market. Despite its accessibility<br />
(just take any commuter boat) you’ll rarely see a tourist at Wang Lang<br />
and many Bangkokians are not even aware of it. Damnoen Saduak<br />
Floating Market, on the other hand, is really only accessible if you book<br />
a tour and, apart from great photo opportunities, offers little these days<br />
that could be considered authentic. EmQuartier shopping centre, which<br />
opened in 2015, is the favourite shopping place for hip Thais, and<br />
Central Embassy surely ranks as one of the most dazzlingly impressive<br />
shopping centres in Asia.<br />
Bonus tip<br />
For an invigorating caffeine/sugar jolt to reboot your shopping-spree<br />
energy just ask for a gafair yen (literally, cold coffee), usually prepared<br />
with a generous serving of condensed milk.<br />
Kenya Airways operates daily flights (except<br />
Fridays) to Bangkok from Nairobi’s Jomo<br />
Kenyatta International Airport.<br />
1. Floating market of Damnoek Saduak just outside Bangkok 2. Wat Bovornnivet<br />
3. Chao Phraya 4. Ma hor, a Thai appetizer at Nahm restaurant 5. Tuk-tuk driver<br />
awaits customers at Khao San Road 6. Wat Phra Kaew, Temple of the Emerald<br />
Buddha 7. Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar in the Marriot 8. The Never Ending Summer
60 / TRAVEL / Quiz<br />
Guess<br />
and Win<br />
We give you five clues about a<br />
KENYA AIRWAYS DESTINATION.<br />
Which country are we referring to?<br />
Post your answer to Facebook, Instagram<br />
or Twitter using #<strong>msafiri</strong>quiz,<br />
and we may surprise you with a gift.<br />
text Ben Clark<br />
1<br />
This FOOTBALLER was born in this country. He is<br />
considered by many to be one of the greatest footballers of<br />
all time. During his professional career, he scored 749 goals<br />
in 745 matches at club level.<br />
2<br />
Until this country gained independence in 1975, its capital<br />
city was called LOURENÇO MARQUES.<br />
3<br />
TEA is grown in this country in the foothills of MOUNT<br />
MURRESSE, which is found near the town of Gurué.<br />
4<br />
The staple food for many people here is NCIMA, a thick<br />
porridge made from maize/corn flour. Cassava and rice are<br />
also eaten as staple carbohydrates.<br />
5<br />
This country is home to 740 BIRD SPECIES. These include<br />
the Taita falcon, the Southern Banded Snake-Eagle and the<br />
pink-backed pelican.<br />
Do you know the country? Post your answer to Facebook, Twitter or Instagram using #<strong>msafiri</strong>quiz. Each month, Kenya Airways will pick a winner<br />
and surprise him or her with a gift. Correspondence about the quiz results will not be possible.<br />
Getty Images, iStock, Alamy, Shutterstock
62 / WILDLIFE / Conservation<br />
RACE TO<br />
SAFETY<br />
With its population in free fall,<br />
the CHEETAH is facing an<br />
uncertain future. But HELP IS AT<br />
HAND in Africa.<br />
text Ben Clark
Getty Images<br />
WILDLIFE / 63
64 / WILDLIFE / Conservation<br />
“Since 2000,<br />
the cheetah population<br />
has doubled”<br />
Suzi Eszterhaz
WILDLIFE / 65<br />
Suzi Eszterhaz<br />
THE DECLINE of the cheetah is<br />
not a recent event. It began during the<br />
last Ice Age (12,000 years ago) when<br />
the cheetah was forced to migrate from<br />
North America to Asia and Africa with<br />
very few numbers, leaving the species<br />
genetically the same. With a 112 km/h<br />
top speed and average hunting speed of<br />
64 km/h this cat is the fastest land animal.<br />
An ability to move quickly might explain<br />
why it’s able to roam over vast areas –<br />
1,500 sq km – to access more prey and<br />
thrive. The loss of genetic diversity and<br />
reduced habitat had a significant effect<br />
on the animal’s wellbeing.<br />
MODERN MEDICINE<br />
The advancement of science and<br />
medicine has provided this insight, which<br />
is contributing to effective cheetah<br />
conservation efforts today, especially in<br />
Africa where the Cheetah Conservation<br />
Fund (CCF) – in Namibia – is leading<br />
the charge. Research published in journal<br />
Genome Biology two years ago found that<br />
the last Ice Age triggered a reduction in<br />
the cheetah’s gene pool, mainly due to<br />
inbreeding. To make this discovery, a<br />
group of researchers at Saint Petersburg<br />
University in Russia (in a combined<br />
effort with the CCF) sequenced the<br />
genome of a Namibian cheetah. A news<br />
release from Biomed Central explains<br />
that 18 cheetah genes showed mutations.<br />
One gene in particular, AKAP4, showed<br />
many mutations, which could harm<br />
sperm development and may explain<br />
why the cheetah has low reproductive<br />
success.<br />
“The research myself and the CCF<br />
collaborators have been conducting for<br />
over 30 years has shown us the hurdles<br />
our conservation efforts need to surpass<br />
to save the cheetah,” says Dr Laurie<br />
Marker, Founder and Executive Director<br />
of the CCF.<br />
“Mapping the cheetah genome increases<br />
our understanding of this species’<br />
problematic evolutionary path, which<br />
includes its lack of genetic diversity and<br />
population bottlenecks. With this insight,<br />
and the support of the governments and<br />
communities where cheetahs live, we can<br />
try to overcome these challenges and<br />
save the cheetah for future generations.”<br />
aristocracy. This reduced the wild<br />
population even further, as cheetahs do<br />
not breed well in captivity. Evidence of<br />
this taming is found in the Punt reliefs at<br />
the Dayr al-Bahri tombs near Thebes.<br />
According to Thomas T. Allsen in<br />
Contact and Exchange in the Ancient<br />
World, an expedition sent during the<br />
reign of the pharaoh queen Hatshepsut<br />
to the horn of Africa brought back<br />
cheetahs on leashes. Allsen goes on to<br />
explain their use as hunters, “In the era<br />
of the Umayyad (AD661-750) and Abbasid<br />
(AD750-1258) caliphates, hunting<br />
with cheetahs was a popular pastime for<br />
the political elite throughout the Middle<br />
East.” A burial mound discovered in<br />
India – dated 2300BC – contained<br />
further evidence. According to Jonathan<br />
Kingdon in East African Mammals IIIA,<br />
“A silver vase found at Maikop in the<br />
Caucasus is decorated with the<br />
representation of a cheetah wearing a<br />
collar.” Charity Big Cat Rescue explains<br />
that Akbar the Great of India (AD1555-<br />
1600) had a collection of an estimated<br />
6,000 cheetahs, which only produced one<br />
litter each year.<br />
It’s difficult to know just how<br />
HUMAN INTERFERENCE<br />
This phenomenon is by no means<br />
isolated to a change in climate. Human<br />
influence is also partly to blame. In<br />
Ancient Egypt, cheetahs were tamed pervasive human interference was but<br />
and used as pets for hunting by the this evidence suggests that it was >
66 / WILDLIFE / Conservation
WILDLIFE / 67<br />
“The cheetah has a<br />
112 km/h top speed and roams<br />
over vast areas”<br />
Suzi Eszterhaz
68 / WILDLIFE / Conservation<br />
“Farmers have<br />
reported an<br />
80 percent drop in<br />
livestock losses”<br />
notable at certain times in human history.<br />
And given that the effect of confinement<br />
to fewer continents was already<br />
dire for the maintenance of this species,<br />
living in human compounds hardly<br />
improved the situation.<br />
OLD HABITS DIE HARD<br />
Modern industrialisation has led to<br />
a reclaiming of large areas of cheetah<br />
habitat for urbanisation and farming.<br />
Further human interference manifests<br />
here. Farmers shoot cheetahs to protect<br />
their livestock. “In Namibia during<br />
the 1970s and 1980s, farmers removed<br />
800-900 cheetahs from the landscape per<br />
year, considering them to be ‘worthless<br />
vermin’ and a threat to livestock,” says<br />
Dr Marker.<br />
This species has lost over 90 percent<br />
of its numbers in the last 100 years.<br />
Asian cheetahs have been mostly wiped<br />
out, while the African population of just<br />
over 7,000 – the main remaining cheetah<br />
population in the world – is dwindling.<br />
A NEW HOPE<br />
However, since establishing the CCF<br />
in 1990, Dr Marker has been developing<br />
strategies to stabilise cheetah numbers.<br />
From the 1970s to 1990 the population<br />
Piper Mackay<br />
halved. Since the CCF came to Namibia<br />
it has doubled – mainly from 2000-<strong>2017</strong><br />
– from 1,500 to 3,000. Now, via the<br />
Future Farmers of Africa programme,<br />
she’s teaching farmers techniques to<br />
manage their livestock on the lands they<br />
share with wildlife. Key to this is the<br />
Livestock Guarding Dog Programme,<br />
which uses special dog breeds to ward<br />
off cheetahs, saving them from a bullet.<br />
Farmers have reported an 80 percent<br />
drop in livestock losses. The programme<br />
is in high demand (there’s a two-year<br />
waiting list the CCF hopes to reduce)<br />
and it has already been established in<br />
South Africa, Botswana and Tanzania<br />
using dogs from the CCF.<br />
Remarkably, in Tanzania, one of Dr<br />
Marker’s former research assistants is<br />
using these dogs to protect livestock<br />
from lions (and other predators).<br />
Dr Marker has also created a clinic<br />
and conservation genetics research lab,<br />
for on-site cheetah research. She shares<br />
these facilities with scientists from other<br />
conservation organisations studying<br />
many predator species, including<br />
researchers from Action for Cheetahs in<br />
Kenya (ACK), a sister charity she helped<br />
launch. Mary Wykstra, a long-time<br />
collaborator of Dr Marker’s, leads ACK<br />
and together they are developing new<br />
initiatives with a view to stabilising<br />
cheetah populations across the species<br />
range in Africa. In terms of spreading<br />
awareness and increasing funding, the<br />
CCF has long made its Field Research<br />
and Education Centre available to the<br />
public and has just opened an ecolodge<br />
for tourists.<br />
REDOUBLING EFFORTS<br />
These organisations’ dedication to<br />
saving the cheetah is not the end of the<br />
story. What they do requires outside<br />
help from individuals. Assisting with the<br />
cause in this respect is acclaimed actress<br />
and activist Gillian Anderson who has<br />
made a short film about the plight of<br />
the cheetah and what can be done to<br />
help the CCF (cheetah.org). “The race is<br />
on to save the cheetah and with your<br />
help we can win,” says Anderson.<br />
As each species disappears, the<br />
chance of survival for the remainder is<br />
reduced. Taken to one extreme, a loss of<br />
75 percent of the world’s species is<br />
enough to trigger a mass extinction. So<br />
it’s by no means impossible that if the<br />
cheetah becomes extinct, one day, so<br />
might we.<br />
United for Wildlife<br />
Kenya Airways was an active<br />
force in drawing up the United<br />
for Wildlife Transport Taskforce<br />
Declaration, focussed on illegal<br />
wildlife products. KQ signed the<br />
declaration, together with 40<br />
other leaders in the transport<br />
and conservation sector in March<br />
2016. Led by Prince William, the<br />
Duke of Cambridge, the initiative<br />
aims to support efforts to prevent<br />
the growing trade in illegal wildlife<br />
and products around the world.
Stocksy<br />
WILDLIFE / 69
ENTERTAINMENT / 71<br />
Kenya Airways<br />
offers its passengers<br />
complimentary inflight<br />
entertainment.<br />
The programme will<br />
vary in different aircraft<br />
types. Check your<br />
screen to view the<br />
selection on your flight.<br />
Relax & Enjoy<br />
Discover our complimentary blockbusters, new releases,<br />
African films, all-time favourites, Bollywood films, TV, audio and<br />
games during your flight. These are this season’s highlights.<br />
Kong: Skull Island<br />
(read more on the next page)<br />
“An uncharted island. Let me list all the<br />
ways you’re going to die: wind, rain, heat,<br />
disease-carrying flies, and we haven’t started on<br />
the things that want to eat you alive”<br />
– Captain James Conrad –<br />
MOVIE RATINGS<br />
G Suitable for all ages PG Some material may not be suitable for children PG-13 Some material may be inapproriate for children under 13<br />
R Under-17s should watch only with parental approval NR Not rated UR Unrated Please note: at certain periods the programming may differ from that shown.
72 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
Favourites<br />
Kong:<br />
Skull Island<br />
With influences including Princess<br />
Mononoke, the anime Evangelion,<br />
and Apocalypse Now, Kong: Skull<br />
Island – the second film in the<br />
MonsterVerse franchise – has been<br />
critically acclaimed. It’s also the<br />
seventh-highest grossing film so far<br />
in <strong>2017</strong>.<br />
Kong: Skull Island (<strong>2017</strong>) ACTION<br />
Available onboard Kenya Airways now — take a journey to the past and revisit<br />
Kong in his newest form!<br />
Samuel L. Jackson. PG-13, 118 mins. Director: Jordan Vogt-Roberts<br />
We first meet Kong on his island in 1944,<br />
when a fight between stranded American<br />
and Japanese soldiers is Interrupted by the<br />
big ape.<br />
Fast forward to the end of the Vietnam<br />
War, when several American soldiers, led<br />
by Colonel Packard (Samuel L. Jackson),<br />
are joined by anti-war photographer Mason<br />
Weaver (Brie Larson) and former member<br />
of the British special forces Captain James<br />
Conrad (Tom Hiddleston). They go to Skull<br />
Island on an expedition with a purpose that<br />
is unknown to them. US Government official<br />
Bill Randa (John Goodman) is the only one<br />
who’s aware of the island’s monsters. In their<br />
quest to survive, the men must confront their<br />
greatest fears, hulking enemies and suspicious<br />
natives.<br />
In the Forests of Siberia (2016) ADVENTURE<br />
Teddy decides to settle down alone in Siberia, in the midst of winter, in a hut<br />
by the shore of Lake Baikal where he soon learns the harsher sides of solitude.<br />
Raphaël Personnaz, Evgeniy Sidikhin. G, 105 mins. Director: Safy Nebbou<br />
With comedic twists and shots reminiscent<br />
of computer games, director Jordan Vogt-<br />
Roberts’ first blockbuster is a rollercoaster<br />
ride that will have you gripping the edge of<br />
your seat as the action-packed minutes fly by.<br />
Did you know?<br />
~ As part of a larger franchise, this instalment leads up to the Godzilla<br />
vs. Kong film, set for release in 2020!<br />
~ At 31.7 m, this incarnation of Kong, which is based on his 1933<br />
counterpart, is the biggest of all.<br />
Big Mommas Like Father, Like Son (2011) ACTION<br />
Malcolm Turner and his stepson Trent go undercover at an all-girls school to<br />
flush out a killer.<br />
Martin Lawrence, Jessica Lucas. PG-13, 107 mins. Director: John Whitesell
ENTERTAINMENT / 73<br />
Favourites<br />
I, Robot (2004) ACTION<br />
In 2035, a technophobic cop investigates a crime that may have been<br />
perpetrated by a robot, which reveals a larger threat to humanity.<br />
Will Smith, Bridget Moynahan. PG-13, 115 mins. Director: Alex Proyas<br />
American Sniper (2014) ACTION<br />
Navy SEAL Chris Kyle’s pinpoint accuracy saves countless lives and turns him<br />
into a legend. However, after returning home, he can’t leave the war behind.<br />
Bradley Cooper, Sienna Miller. R, 133 mins. Director: Clint Eastwood<br />
Getting Rich in Lagos (2016) DRAMA<br />
A young man leaves to the big city to pursue a career and become<br />
wealthy. Years later he returns to his old village.<br />
Wole Ojo, Jide Kosoko. PG-13, 105 mins. Director: Darasen Richards<br />
Gifted (<strong>2017</strong>) DRAMA<br />
Frank, a single man raising his child prodigy niece Mary, is drawn into a<br />
custody battle with his mother.<br />
Chris Evans, Mckenna Grace. PG-13, 101 mins. Director: Marc Webb<br />
The Dark Knight Rises (2012) ACTION<br />
Eight years after the Joker’s reign of anarchy, the Dark Knight is forced from<br />
his imposed exile to save Gotham City from the brutal guerrilla-terrorist Bane.<br />
Christian Bale, Tom Hardy. PG-13, 164 mins. Director: Christopher Nolan<br />
Rustom (2016) CRIME<br />
In 1959, a decorated naval officer is accused of murdering his wife’s lover.<br />
Akshay Kumar, Ileana D'Cruz, Arjan Bajwa, Esha Gupta. UA, 148 mins.<br />
Director: Dharmendra Suresh Desai
74 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
African Highlights<br />
A Little White Lie<br />
It's About Your Husband<br />
Candle in the Wind<br />
Film<br />
Picks from<br />
the continent<br />
We’ve selected the best of current African cinema,<br />
including drama and comedy.<br />
A Little White Lie (2016) DRAMA<br />
A socially awkward young woman lies to her parents about having a boyfriend<br />
and it eventually catches up with her, in ways better than expected.<br />
Mbong Amata, Mary Remmy, PG-13, 91 mins. Director: John Njamah<br />
It’s About Your Husband (2016) DRAMA<br />
A married man discovers that his wife and secret girlfriend met at a job<br />
interview and will soon be working together.<br />
Bimbo Ademoye, Vivian Ojei, PG-13, 91 mins. Director: Bunmmi Ajakaiye<br />
Candle in the Wind (2016) DRAMA<br />
An old man traces his lost daughter to ask for forgiveness through narrating<br />
his past life.<br />
Jackie Appiah, James Gardiner. PG-13, 109 mins. Director: Pascal Amanfo<br />
Nightrunners (2015) THRILLER<br />
Thriller based on a true local legend. Isobel travels to a remote,<br />
Nightrunners<br />
malaria-plagued island to help out at the local orphanage.<br />
Esther Asinga, Teresa Asinga. NR, 88 mins. Director: Rowan Nielsen<br />
First Class (2016) COMEDY<br />
After an illiterate business owner is defrauded by his wife, he uses the<br />
incident as an incentive to enrol in primary school.<br />
Ruth Kadiri, Peggy Ovire. PG-13, 117 mins. Director: Ike Nnaebue<br />
Grigris (2013) DRAMA<br />
Despite his paralyzed leg, Grigris dreams of being a dancer. His hopes are<br />
dashed when his stepfather falls ill. He must traffic petrol to save him.<br />
Souleymane Démé. NR, 101 mins. Director: Mahamat-Saleh Haroun<br />
As Crazy as it Gets (2015) ROMANCE<br />
A man who’s about to propose to his girlfriend gets a shock when a heavily<br />
pregnant woman appears demanding that he takes responsibility.<br />
Omoni Oboli, Chuks Chyke. PG-13, 106 mins. Director: Shittu Taiwo<br />
Safe Bet (2015) COMEDY<br />
When Frank’s friend Khaya turns up with a money-making scheme,<br />
Frank is tempted into throwing all his boss’ money into a fixed<br />
boxing match.<br />
Wandile Molebatsi, Lutuli Dlamini. PG-13, 91 mins. Director: Carl Roddam<br />
Mum, Dad meet Sam (2014) COMEDY<br />
Josiah and Samantha meet and fall in love. He takes her home to meet<br />
his family in Nigeria, where a supposed special occasion turns into their<br />
worst nightmare.<br />
Tomasz Dabrowski, Amanda Smith, Emily Lucienne. PG-13, 94 mins.<br />
Director: Tony Sebastian Ukpo
ENTERTAINMENT / 75<br />
World Movies<br />
Film<br />
Around the Globe<br />
We’ve selected some recent action, drama and<br />
romance titles from around the globe.<br />
Max and Léon<br />
LA FOLLE HISTOIRE DE MAX ET LÉON (2016) COMEDY<br />
The adventures of two childhood friends, Max and Léon, one an idler and<br />
the other a party animal, who are trying to escape the Second World War.<br />
David Marsais. Grégoire Ludig. PG-13, 98 mins. Director: Jonathan Barré<br />
From the Land of the Moon<br />
MAL DE PIERRES (2016) ROMANCE<br />
In 1950s France, Gabrielle is a passionate, free-spirited woman who’s in a<br />
loveless marriage and falls for another man when she is sent to the Alps.<br />
Marion Cotillard, Louis Garrel. PG-13, 120 mins. Director: Nicole Garcia<br />
The Last Diamond<br />
LE DERNIER DIAMANT (2014) CRIME<br />
Simon, just out of prison, is led by his mentor Albert and the gangster<br />
Scylla into an operation to steal the most famous diamond in the world,<br />
the Florentin.<br />
Yvan Attal, Bérénice Bejo. R, 108 mins. Director: Eric Barbier<br />
The Fury of a Patient Man<br />
TARDE PARA LA IRA (2016) THRILLER<br />
A man who loses his wife during a vicious robbery at a jewellery store<br />
quietly plans to find and exact revenge against the robbers responsible.<br />
Antonio de la Torre, Luis Callejo. NR, 91 mins. Director: Raúl Arévalo<br />
Pink (2016) DRAMA<br />
When three young women – Minal Arora, Falak Ali and Andrea – are<br />
implicated in a crime, retired lawyer Deepak Sehgal steps forward to help<br />
them clear their names.<br />
Tapsee Pannu. PG-13, 136 mins. Director: Aniruddha Roy Chowdhury<br />
What’s for Dinner, Mom?<br />
MAMA, GOHAN MADA? (2016) DRAMA<br />
Tae finds a box with letters and recipes written by her mother.<br />
Izumu Fujimoto. NR, 117 mins. Director: Mitsuhito Shiraha<br />
Baaghi (2016) ROMANCE<br />
An ex-military agent goes into hiding for a<br />
mission. He has a bounty on his head, and the best hunter in town is on<br />
the chase. But they have a common enemy.<br />
Shraddha Kapoor, Tiger Shroff, Sudheer Babu Posani. PG-13, 133 mins.<br />
Director: Sabir Khan<br />
Rocky Handsome (2016) ACTION<br />
When a drug mafia abducts an eight-year-old, her friend and neighbour<br />
sets out on a mission to rescue her by any means necessary.<br />
John Abraham. UA, 119 mins. Director: Nishikant Kamat<br />
Max and Léon
76 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
TV<br />
Small Screen<br />
Programmes<br />
& Series<br />
We’ve selected the best TV comedies, drama, sports<br />
and lifestyle programmes for your entertainment.<br />
Comedy<br />
The Big Bang Theory, Season 9, Episodes 4, 5 & 6 A woman who moves into<br />
an apartment across the hall from two brilliant but socially awkward physicists<br />
shows them how little they know about life outside the laboratory.<br />
New Girl, Season 5, Episodes 4 & 5 After a bad break-up, Jess moves into<br />
an apartment with three single men.<br />
2 Broke Girls, Season 5, Episodes 1 & 2 Two young waitresses strike up an<br />
unlikely friendship in the hopes of launching a successful business.<br />
The League, Season 6, Episode 1 An ensemble comedy that follows a<br />
group of old friends in a fantasy football league who use every opportunity to<br />
make each other’s lives miserable.<br />
Sports<br />
250 Great Goals featuring goals scored by Zlatan Ibrahimovic in EURO 2012<br />
and Ben Watson scoring for Wigan Athletic in the 2013 FA Cup final.<br />
PGA: Delivering a Decade of Champions This half-hour special chronicles<br />
the FedExCup, reflecting on how it has changed the game and examining its<br />
enduring impact on the PGA TOUR and its players.<br />
Discovery<br />
Africa III Madagascar, a huge island nation off the southeast coast of Africa,<br />
is home to thousands of animal species found nowhere else, rainforests,<br />
beaches and reefs.<br />
Hong Kong and Macau Hong Kong is a major port and global financial<br />
centre famed for its tower-studded skyline. Macau is a resort city that is<br />
known for its casinos and luxury hotels. Both places are in Southern China.<br />
China (Suzhou) Suzhou, a city west of Shanghai, is known for its canals,<br />
bridges and classical gardens.<br />
Lifestyle<br />
On the Road, Season 1, Episode 2 Wanja Mungai takes viewers to three<br />
new locations every week to see some of Africa’s best destinations.<br />
The Scoop, Season 1, Episodes 1, 3 & 4 A new African talk show hosted by<br />
A24 Media’s Salim Amin. The show takes viewers into the lives of the “who’s<br />
who” of Africa.<br />
News<br />
Afripedia A documentary series about the creative forces that are reshaping<br />
the image of Africa beyond the stereotypes.<br />
The Africa Opportunity A look at the current climate for business and<br />
investment in Africa featuring panel discussions from Bloomberg’s Africa<br />
Business and Economic Summit.<br />
Drama<br />
The Flash, Season 3, Episodes 2 & 3 After being struck by lightning,<br />
Barry Allen wakes up from his coma to discover he’s been given the power<br />
of super speed, becoming The Flash.<br />
Training Day, Season 1 , Episodes 1 & 2 TV follow-up to the 2001 film<br />
Training Day about a rookie cop partnered with an experienced corrupt<br />
narcotics officer.
ENTERTAINMENT / 77<br />
Music Channel Explained: The Channel number for<br />
your favourite music programmes is shown at the end<br />
of each description. It’s determined by the aircraft type,<br />
so you will need to know what type of aircraft you’re on.<br />
Please check the safety card in front of you.<br />
Audio<br />
Spotlight on<br />
Whitney<br />
Houston<br />
In this month’s spotlight section,<br />
we are treated to a collection of<br />
poignant and beautifully poetic<br />
songs from the late American<br />
singer Whitney Houston.<br />
In 2009, Guiness World Records cited<br />
Houston as the most-awarded female<br />
act of all-time. Delivering a host of hit<br />
singles such as When You Believe and<br />
My Love is Your Love, it’s no surprise<br />
that she sold almost 200 million albums<br />
worldwide during her glittering career.<br />
KQ Radio (with guest DJ)<br />
Our guest DJs bring you some of Kenya’s<br />
biggest hits. B737 CH. 3<br />
African Classics<br />
The best tunes from classic African artists,<br />
from Angélique Kidjo to Umanji. B737 CH. 4<br />
Jazz<br />
Our highly diverse collection is a must-listen for<br />
the discerning jazz fan. B737 CH. 7<br />
Pop<br />
Enjoy our sampling of all of today’s most-loved<br />
pop music. B737 CH. 8<br />
Dance Hall/Reggae<br />
We offer a fusion of sounds, with a range of<br />
diverse artists. B737 CH. 6<br />
Classical<br />
Sit back and relax to our classical collection’s<br />
awe-inspiring compositions. B737 CH. 5<br />
Chinese Pop<br />
The perfect selection for exploring the sounds<br />
of the Orient. B737 CH.9<br />
Easy Listening<br />
Unwind and take it easy with some laid-back<br />
sounds. B737 CH. 10<br />
Meditation<br />
Sit back, relax and destress to the ultimate<br />
meditation mix. ONLY ON B787 and B777<br />
“When I heard Aretha, I could feel<br />
her emotional delivery so clearly.<br />
It came from down deep within.<br />
That’s what I wanted to do”<br />
– Whitney Houston –
78 / ENTERTAINMENT<br />
Kids<br />
Comedy<br />
Mr. Popper’s<br />
Penguins<br />
After a business man inherits six<br />
penguins, it’s not long before his<br />
life begins to unravel as he<br />
struggles to care for them.<br />
Mr. Popper (Jim Carrey) is a successful<br />
real estate developer in Manhattan. He<br />
lives in a posh apartment on Park<br />
Avenue, and is on the fast track to a<br />
partnership in a prestigious company.<br />
However, his life changes radically when<br />
he receives a final gift from his late father<br />
– a live penguin, which soon multiplies.<br />
Jim Carrey, Carla Gugino, Angela Lansbury.<br />
PG, 94 mins. Director: Mark Waters<br />
Film and TV<br />
The Ones to Watch<br />
These are the most popular films from our selection.<br />
If you’ve already seen these, take your pick<br />
from this season’s selection of 35 family and kids films.<br />
Marvel’s Avengers<br />
Assemble<br />
The further animated adventures of<br />
the Marvel Universe’s mightiest<br />
superhero team with newest<br />
member Falcon.<br />
Season 1, Episode 4<br />
The Looney Tunes Show<br />
An updated iteration of the classic<br />
Looney Tunes characters focusing<br />
on their satirical misadventures<br />
living in suburbia.<br />
Season 2, Episode 1<br />
The Flintstones<br />
The hilarious adventures of two<br />
families, the Flintstones and the<br />
Rubbles, as they deal with life in a<br />
romanticised Stone Age.<br />
Season 1, Episodes 2 & 5<br />
X-Men: Evolution<br />
This rendition of X-Men features<br />
Cyclops, Jean Grey, Rogue,<br />
Nightcrawler, Shadowcat and Spike<br />
as teenagers as they fight for a world<br />
that fears and hates them.<br />
Season 2, Episode 1
TRANSLATED / 81<br />
Français & 中 文<br />
Français<br />
82<br />
Tour de Force<br />
84<br />
Secrets de Bangkok<br />
中 文<br />
86<br />
神<br />
87<br />
爱
82 / TRANSLATED<br />
Français<br />
Voyage<br />
Tour de<br />
Force<br />
Quelques-unes des plus majestueuses<br />
chutes d’eau au monde, d’anciens<br />
trésors culturels et de magnifiques<br />
parcs naturels peuvent être admirés<br />
au Zimbabwe et en font une<br />
GRANDE DESTINATION.<br />
L’UNE DES PREMIÈRES CHOSES<br />
à faire en tant que touriste au Zimbabwe<br />
est de s’émerveiller devant la splendeur des<br />
paysages et la gentillesse des habitants.<br />
Un voyage ici, c’est la découverte d’un<br />
véritable patchwork topographique ouvert<br />
sur de vastes panoramas (highveld), sur des<br />
chaos de rochers, des arbres msasa d’un<br />
rouge flamboyant, des paysages urbains,<br />
mais aussi de luxuriantes montagnes vertes<br />
et des cours d’eau aux forts courants.<br />
LES CHUTES VICTORIA<br />
Peu de temps après notre arrivée à<br />
Harare, la capitale du Zimbabwe, nous<br />
rencontrons Lovemore Kuwana, un<br />
homme d’affaires zimbabwéen particulièrement<br />
loquace. Il nous invite à prendre<br />
un cappuccino (vivement conseillé) dans<br />
les beaux jardins du Cottage Café, où il<br />
nous donne son point de vue sur le hautlieu<br />
local : les chutes Victoria. “Une pure<br />
merveille. Moi, je les préfère pendant la<br />
saison des pluies, car on voit vraiment les<br />
nuées qu’elles génèrent. En hiver, le paysage<br />
est un peu plus sec et, même si la vue<br />
est plus dégagée, il me manque le plaisir<br />
d’être trempé par le brouillard.”<br />
Sur ses conseils, et vêtus de ponchos,<br />
nous pénétrons, quelques jours plus tard,<br />
« Les vestiges<br />
impressionnants de<br />
Grand Zimbabwe sont<br />
un autre point d’intérêt »<br />
Où séjourner<br />
PETIT BUDGET<br />
It’s a Small World Backpackers Lodges<br />
Cette délicieuse petite auberge est<br />
idéalement située dans le quartier<br />
d’Avondale à Harare. On y trouve des<br />
chambres doubles à partir de 25 $ US.<br />
C’est une excellente première étape pour<br />
un conseil, ou pour louer une voiture ou<br />
un vélo (smallworldlodge.com).<br />
MILIEU DE GAMME<br />
Norma Jeane’s Lakeview Resort<br />
Ce lodge rustique se situe, en voiture,<br />
tout près du site de Grand Zimbabwe,<br />
et propose des chambres doubles à<br />
partir de 72 $ US. L’hôtel dispose d’un<br />
magnifique jardin et d’une splendide vue<br />
sur le lac Kyle, le plus grand du pays<br />
(normajeanslakeview.com).<br />
HAUT DE GAMME<br />
Elephant Camp<br />
Un gîte luxueux mais à visage humain proposant<br />
de fabuleuses chambres romantiques<br />
en plein air (à partir de 750 $ US )<br />
avec terrasses privées et belles piscines,<br />
vue sur la buée que produisent les chutes<br />
et la possibilité d’apercevoir des éléphants<br />
(theelephantcamp.com).<br />
par l’entrée principale pour une promenade<br />
à travers une mini forêt tropicale en<br />
direction des chutes, alors que ce qui n’est<br />
qu’une légère aspersion se transforme<br />
petit à petit en une véritable averse. Nous<br />
sommes à la fin de saison humide et le<br />
fleuve Zambèze est en crue, dépassant les<br />
625 millions de litres d’eau à la minute.<br />
Il s’ensuit des pulvérisations qui montent<br />
jusqu’à 500 m et vous trempent comme il<br />
faut au passage. Gardez votre appareil<br />
photo bien rangé ; vous pourrez photographier<br />
plus tard tant que vous voudrez.<br />
Quand le brouillard se dissipe, l’incroyable<br />
puissance de cette cascade monumentale<br />
devient visible. Seize points de vue différents<br />
permettent d’admirer les chutes sous<br />
différents angles, ce qui est plus que suffisant.<br />
Cependant, si vous préférez une<br />
expérience plus décoiffante et si voulez<br />
risquer votre vie, vous pouvez les découvrir<br />
en parapente ou les approcher en saut<br />
à l’élastique. Pour les trompe-la-mort,<br />
la baignade dans les eaux du fleuve figure<br />
aussi au menu ; la Devil’s Pool, une piscine<br />
naturelle, se situe juste au bord des chutes.<br />
Et pour ceux qui hésiteraient encore,<br />
il y a toujours la balade plus sécurisée<br />
en hélicoptère.<br />
Pendant de nombreuses années,<br />
visiter ce site du patrimoine mondial de<br />
l’UNESCO n’a pas été simple, du fait des<br />
infrastructures lamentables de la région.<br />
Tout a changé avec l’ouverture de l’aéroport<br />
international de Victoria Falls l’année<br />
dernière. Cet aéroport à 150 millions $ US<br />
est capable de gérer chaque année quelque<br />
1,5 million de passagers, et sa nouvelle<br />
piste peut accueillir les plus gros avions à<br />
réaction du monde. Les vestiges impressionnants<br />
de Grand Zimbabwe (autre site<br />
classé de l’UNESCO) s’inscrivent parmi les<br />
plus importants monuments historiques<br />
d’Afrique, et sont un autre haut-lieu.<br />
“Quand j’arpente ces étonnantes structures,<br />
je ressens de la fierté,” explique ce<br />
touriste zimbabwéen, Ashok Kuwana, en<br />
désignant “l’imposante forteresse”, aux<br />
murs de 10 mètres de haut et longue de 250<br />
mètres, ce qui en fait la plus ancienne et<br />
plus imposante structure subsaharienne.<br />
“Ces constructions sophistiquées prouvent<br />
au monde que nos ancêtres étaient déjà<br />
d’excellents bâtisseurs”, ajoute-t-il avec un<br />
grand sourire. Cette ancienne cité était<br />
autrefois la capitale d’un grand empire qui<br />
s’étendait sur ce que sont maintenant le<br />
Zimbabwe et le Mozambique. Elle abritait<br />
plus de 18 000 habitants entre le XIIIe et le<br />
XVIIe siècle.<br />
La visite du petit musée nous fournit<br />
des informations sur les anciens habitants<br />
et nous admirons les objets découverts lors<br />
de fouilles : ivoire, or, perles de verre,<br />
bijoux et même de la porcelaine chinoise,<br />
prouvant l’implication de la ville dans un<br />
réseau commercial qui allait jusqu’à l’em-
TRANSLATED / 83<br />
pire du Milieu. Nous apprenons que zimba<br />
remabwe signifie “maison de pierre”,<br />
en shona, la langue locale. Après que les<br />
ruines de Grand Zimbabwe sont devenues<br />
un important symbole de reconnaissance<br />
pour les groupuscules nationalistes noirs<br />
dans les années 1970, les nouveaux dirigeants<br />
ont décidé de changer le nom du<br />
pays de Rhodésie en Zimbabwe (à l’accession<br />
à l’indépendance en 1980). Nous découvrons<br />
également les célèbres sculptures<br />
de l’oiseau en pierre retrouvées sur le site et<br />
qui, devenu symbole national, figure sur le<br />
nouveau drapeau zimbabwéen.<br />
Le parking de Grand Zimbabwe offre<br />
une surprise supplémentaire, celle-ci bien<br />
moins agréable : l’endroit est peuplé de<br />
centaines de singes Vervet. Deux d’entre<br />
eux se sont installés sur notre véhicule ;<br />
l’un d’eux vient de faire ses besoins sur le<br />
toit et scrute l’intérieur par le pare-brise à<br />
la recherche de quelque chose à avaler<br />
tandis que son comparse mordille l’antenne.<br />
Alors que nous essayons de les chasser,<br />
ils commencent à siffler en dévoilant<br />
des dents bien pointues. Un conseil :<br />
gardez tout ce qui est précieux et comestible<br />
à l’intérieur du véhicule, car rien n’est<br />
à l’abri de ces voleurs impénitents.<br />
BEAUTÉ RURALE<br />
Le parc national de Matobo, l’un des<br />
endroits les plus méconnus du Zimbabwe,<br />
propose un paysage étrange et étonnant de<br />
chaos de rochers géants en équilibre les uns<br />
sur les autres, et ce, à perte de vue. Certains<br />
de ces plus majestueux décors au monde font<br />
Harare l’animée<br />
Souvent ignorée des personnes focalisées sur<br />
des safaris organisés ailleurs dans le pays,<br />
Harare, la capitale du Zimbabwe est une<br />
cité dynamique qui tient son rang face aux<br />
métropoles d’autres pays africains. Visitez la<br />
National Gallery qui présente des sculptures<br />
Shona traditionnelles en pierre et des peintures<br />
d’artistes locaux. Pique-niquez dans les<br />
splendides National Botanic Gardens. Visitez<br />
le parc de sculptures de Chapungu qui, sur ses<br />
8 hectares, présente les œuvres de sculpteurs<br />
de pierre du Zimbabwe mais aussi d’autres<br />
artistes africains. Relaxez votre corps et votre<br />
esprit au Amanzi Health Spa, un havre de paix<br />
situé entre eaux vives, jardins et terrasse avec<br />
piscine. Allez faire votre shopping au célèbre<br />
village Sam Levy, conçu pour ressembler à<br />
un ancien village européen où les chalands<br />
se promènent sur une chaussée de briques<br />
qui serpente entre les magasins. Éclatez-vous<br />
jusqu’au bout de la nuit au Tin Roof Bucket<br />
Bar and Bistro. Une délicieuse cuisine et de<br />
la bonne musique font de l’endroit l’une des<br />
meilleures adresses d’Harare pour les noctambules.<br />
« Une des premières<br />
choses à faire en tant que<br />
touriste au Zimbabwe est<br />
de s’émerveiller devant la<br />
splendeur des paysages »<br />
comprendre pourquoi le lieu est considéré<br />
comme un des sanctuaires du Zimbabwe.<br />
Ce site classé au patrimoine mondial<br />
abrite de spectaculaires grottes décorées de<br />
peintures rupestres bien conservées, estimées<br />
à 13 000 ans, œuvres des premiers habitants<br />
de la région, le peuple San, et représentant<br />
des girafes, des zèbres et des éléphants. La<br />
réserve est aussi le milieu naturel d’un tiers<br />
des espèces d’aigles du monde, d’une grande<br />
population de rhinocéros noirs et blancs, et<br />
de la plus grande densité de léopards du pays.<br />
Les grottes de Chinhoyi, sont célèbres<br />
pour leur lac bleu et devraient être sur l’itinéraire<br />
de tout voyageur dans la région. Tandis<br />
que nous descendons progressivement au<br />
travers d’un tunnel rocheux aux dimensions<br />
d’une cathédrale, nous débouchons soudainement<br />
sur un lac enchanté d’un bleu d’azur,<br />
où d’énormes poissons nagent dans les eaux<br />
limpides. Pour une centaine de dollars par<br />
personne il est possible d’y faire de la plongée<br />
dans ces eaux profondes de 90 mètres.<br />
À travers d’étroites fentes dans la parois de la<br />
grotte supérieure, dite Dark cave, nous apercevons<br />
les eaux bleues du lac situé en dessous,<br />
lesquelles, avec les concrétions qui semblent<br />
de terre cuite, forment un spectacle féerique.<br />
Pour ce qui concerne la vie sauvage,<br />
les touristes ne sauraient passer à côté du<br />
parc national de Mana Pools de 2200 km² où<br />
l’on est presque assuré de rencontrer hippopotames,<br />
crocodiles, zèbres et éléphants. Les<br />
visiteurs peuvent également y observer des<br />
lions, des chiens sauvages, des léopards mais<br />
aussi des guépards. Ce qui rend ce site du<br />
patrimoine mondial de l’UNESCO tellement<br />
unique par rapport aux autres parcs du<br />
monde, c’est cette possibilité de pouvoir s’y<br />
promener à pied, sans guide.<br />
PARMI LES HARDES<br />
Autre lieu méritant le déplacement :<br />
le parc national Hwange (au nord ouest du<br />
pays), tellement célèbre pour ses immenses<br />
hardes d’éléphants. Lors de notre visite de<br />
cette vaste réserve – laquelle occupe environ<br />
14 650 km² –, nous apercevons plus de 15<br />
de ces mastodontes en pleine baignade, se<br />
remplissant la trompe de boue pour se la<br />
pulvériser sur le dos et le ventre. Quelques<br />
petits s’amusent dans les eaux boueuses.<br />
Deux mâles nous surveillent de près.<br />
Nous retenons notre souffle et observons<br />
cette scène qui nous renvoie à une série<br />
télévisée sur la faune sauvage.<br />
Nous nous reposons à Sinamatella<br />
camp, un lodge et campement situé sur une<br />
falaise dans le nord de la réserve.<br />
L’époustouflante vue sur la jungle environnante<br />
est le décor somptueux pour profiter<br />
d’un verre de vin. D’ici, nous pouvons<br />
entendre les rugissements du lion pendant<br />
que nous profitons du crépuscule rougeoyant<br />
à l’horizon.<br />
Quelques données sur le<br />
Zimbabwe<br />
Le nom “Zimbabwe”, est dérivé de zimba<br />
remabwe qui, en shona – la langue locale<br />
– signifie “maison de pierre”. Cette<br />
maison de pierre fait référence à Grand<br />
Zimbabwe, une ancienne cité construite<br />
à l’époque médiévale et désormais classée<br />
au patrimoine mondial de l’UNESCO.<br />
La statue en pierre représentant l’oiseau<br />
du Zimbabwe – l’emblème national du<br />
pays – provient de bon nombre de sculptures<br />
en pierre stéatite découvertes dans<br />
les ruines de l’ancienne cité de Grand<br />
Zimbabwe.<br />
Vers la fin de la saison humide, lorsque<br />
le fleuve Zambèze est à son débit maximum<br />
à l’approche des chutes Victoria<br />
(environ 625 millions de litres d’eau par<br />
minute), il produit une vapeur d’eau qui<br />
s’élève jusqu’à 500 m.<br />
La majorité des Zimbabwéens appellent<br />
tout type de dentifrice : “Colgate”, tout<br />
type de soda : “Coke”, tout type de lessive<br />
: “Surf” et pratiquement tout produit<br />
nettoyant pour les sols : “Cobra”.<br />
Le mbira, un petit instrument de musique<br />
portatif, est joué depuis plus de<br />
1000 ans au Zimbabwe. Cet instrument<br />
est aussi appelé communément “piano<br />
à pouces”.<br />
Alors que dans la plupart des pays, les<br />
hommes font tout pour perdre du ventre,<br />
les Zimbabwéens font tout le contraire.<br />
Ils chérissent leur bedaine, signe de réussite<br />
et de richesse.<br />
✈ Réservez votre vol: kenya-airways.com
84 / TRANSLATED<br />
Français<br />
Voyage<br />
Secrets de<br />
Bangkok<br />
Bangkok a été LA VILLE LE<br />
PLUS VISITÉE au monde<br />
l’année dernière; pourtant, la<br />
capitale thaïlandaise conserve un<br />
charme pittoresque dans certains<br />
quartiers souvent ignorés des<br />
touristes. Voici pour vous SIX<br />
IDÉES pour vous guider vers les<br />
endroits secrets les plus charmants<br />
de la Cité des Anges.<br />
1Que voir<br />
Le Grand Palais est l’un des hautslieux<br />
de la plupart des visites de<br />
Bangkok, tandis que Wat Phra Kaew<br />
(le Temple du Bouddha d’Émeraude)<br />
apparaît étincelant avec ses flèches qui<br />
pointent vers le ciel. Au milieu de la<br />
forêt des cannes télescopiques à selfies, il<br />
est difficile de se faire une idée de la<br />
spiritualité de ce type de lieu. Pour plus<br />
de tranquillité, il vaut mieux se diriger<br />
vers Wat Pho ou traverser le fleuve en<br />
direction du délicieux temple de Wat<br />
Arun. Wat Prayurawongsawat, en aval<br />
du fleuve par rapport à ici, est un autre<br />
temple enchanteur quasiment ignoré du<br />
grand public. L’escalier en courbe, bordé<br />
de cloches de prières, qui monte autour<br />
de Wat Saket est l’un des endroits les<br />
plus fascinants de la ville. De là, vous<br />
pourrez explorer les alentours de Wat<br />
Ratchanaddaram dans une semi-solitude.<br />
Au fil de l’eau<br />
On ne peut se targuer de vraiment<br />
connaître Bangkok tant qu’on n’a pas<br />
fait l’expérience des sauterelles frites<br />
ou des scorpions grillés. Backyard Travel<br />
(backyardtravel.com) organise de<br />
magnifiques excursions au fil des eaux<br />
dans Bangkok et sur les pittoresques<br />
marchés flottants. Assurez-vous de<br />
bien vous renseigner à l’avance pour<br />
organiser une excursion personnalisée<br />
concentrée uniquement sur les aspects<br />
les plus passionnants de la ville<br />
la plus excitante du monde.<br />
Astuce<br />
Le Grand Palais et le Temple du<br />
Bouddha d’Émeraude sont plutôt calmes<br />
à l’ouverture des portes à 8h30 le matin.<br />
Prévoyez d’arriver plus tôt pour prendre<br />
un petit-déjeuner dans le petit restaurant<br />
guindé de la jetée de Tha Tian et regarder<br />
s’éveiller le fleuve Chao Phraya<br />
chargé d’histoire.<br />
2Où prendre un verre<br />
De nombreux visiteurs sont attirés<br />
par la Cité des Anges pour le soleil<br />
tropical mais aussi pour la vie nocturne.<br />
Quand le soleil commence à se coucher,<br />
les cols blancs thaïlandais aiment se<br />
retrouver en bordure du fleuve, à la<br />
terrasse du The Never Ending Summer<br />
(facebook.com/TheNeverEndingSummer),<br />
ancien entrepôt de glace réhabilité<br />
en cocktail bar et restaurant, resté très<br />
“cool”. Les rues des alentours de Khao<br />
San Road vibrent de l’agitation endiablée<br />
que lui impriment à eux seuls<br />
les routards tandis que peu de Falangs<br />
(étrangers) réussissent à trouver le chemin<br />
des cafés bohèmes pour étudiants<br />
et des salles de musique thaïlandaise<br />
bordant Phra Athit Road. Le district<br />
d’Ekkamai a aussi une ambiance sympa<br />
et certains des bars plus discrets s’inscrivent<br />
parmi les préférés des locaux.<br />
Le Quarter Thonglor est l’endroit<br />
rêvé pour observer richesse et beauté<br />
à Bangkok.<br />
Astuce<br />
(Très) haut de gamme L’Octave Rooftop<br />
Lounge & Bar du Marriot (marriott.com)<br />
propose de merveilleux cocktails et un<br />
panorama inoubliable à 360° sur la ville<br />
depuis le 45e étage. Pour un peu plus de<br />
charme, bien que plus modeste, on pourra<br />
essayer le restaurant River Vibe (riverviewbkk.com)<br />
surplombant Chinatown.<br />
On sait qu’on est en dehors de sentiers<br />
battus touristiques dès l’instant où même<br />
les chauffeurs de tuk-tuks ont du mal à<br />
trouver!<br />
3<br />
Où<br />
séjourner<br />
Comme il n’y a nulle part pénurie<br />
d’hébergements, vous pourrez<br />
même découvrir le charme tropical du<br />
vieux Bangkok. The Siam (thesiamhotel.<br />
com) est un délicieux hôtel de charme<br />
bordant le fleuve Chao Phraya. Il se<br />
« Le pad thaï<br />
(littéralement: sauté à la<br />
thaïlandaise) est<br />
l’échappatoire idéale pour<br />
qui ne sait pas trop<br />
quoi commander »<br />
targue de son luxueux Opium Spa, d’un<br />
ancien cinéma et même d’une salle de<br />
sport où le ring de kickboxing est probablement<br />
le plus stylé au monde. Et pour<br />
descendre le fleuve en direction du<br />
centre-ville, il suffit de sauter à bord de<br />
la vedette privée VIP.<br />
Chakrabongse Villas (Secret-retreats.<br />
com/chakrabongse) propose un hébergement<br />
royal – construit par un prince –<br />
dans d’antiques bungalows de bois situés<br />
sur les berges. Même après 140 ans, le<br />
Mandarin Oriental (mandarinoriental.<br />
com) reste l’un des meilleurs hôtels de<br />
Bangkok et les légendaires suites des auteurs<br />
offrent une vision de la ville à travers<br />
les yeux de certains des grands écrivains<br />
qui séjournèrent ici.
TRANSLATED / 85<br />
Astuce<br />
Peu importe où vous séjournerez, la<br />
visite de la maison de Jim Thompson est<br />
un incontournable (jimthompsonhouse.<br />
com). Sa fascinante visite guidée permet<br />
de découvrir de beaux exemples d’architecture<br />
thaïlandaise.<br />
4<br />
Où<br />
manger<br />
La cuisine thaïlandaise est à juste<br />
titre célèbre dans le monde entier.<br />
Tout amateur de gastronomie thaïlandaise<br />
ferait bien de réserver une<br />
table chez Nahm (facebook.com/<br />
nahmrestaurant) où le chef australien<br />
David Thompson crée de longue date<br />
ses merveilles culinaires dans le respect<br />
des plus anciennes recettes. Na Aroon<br />
(ariyasom.com) est un restaurant végétarien<br />
bio capable d’illustrer clairement<br />
ce qu’est une cuisine thaïlandaise<br />
authentique. Les voyageurs qui séjournent<br />
dans la zone touristique de<br />
Kao San Road ne doivent pas manquer<br />
de découvrir le Joy Luck Club (18 Phra<br />
Sumen Rd), décalé et minimaliste, où<br />
deux sœurs assurent cette éternelle<br />
hospitalité thaïlandaise autour d’une<br />
délicieuse cuisine maison. Maintenant,<br />
pour une soirée cocktails et tapas, vous<br />
avez à deux pas Sheepshank (sheepshankpublichouse.com),<br />
établissement<br />
installé dans d’anciens chantiers navals<br />
rénovés jouxtant la jetée de Phra Athit.<br />
Astuce<br />
Les étrangers sont parfois anxieux face à<br />
la sulfureuse réputation de piquante et<br />
d’épicée que traîne la cuisine thaïlandaise.<br />
Dès lors, le pad thaï (littéralement<br />
“sauté à la thaïlandaise”) est<br />
l’échappatoire idéale pour qui ne sait<br />
pas trop quoi commander. Il en existe<br />
tellement de variations qu’on pourrait<br />
commander tous les jours du pad thaï et<br />
ne jamais se voir servir le même repas<br />
deux fois de suite.<br />
S’y rendre ainsi qu’aux<br />
alentours<br />
Kenya Airways dessert quotidiennement,<br />
et sans escale, Bangkok depuis Nairobi<br />
avec un vol de nuit très pratique (d’une<br />
durée de 9h56). Tandis que les tuk-tuks<br />
typiques restent le moyen de transport<br />
le plus exaltant mais aussi le plus rapide<br />
pour traverser la ville, ils peuvent s’avérer<br />
plus chers que le taxi (surtout dans les<br />
endroits touristiques). Le SkyTrain est<br />
rapide et pratique mais si on en a<br />
l’occasion, il est préférable de voyager<br />
par bateau qu’il s’agisse de gros ferries<br />
faisant office de bac ou de bateaux<br />
locaux “longtail” frétés pour l’occasion.<br />
« On ne voit pas souvent<br />
de touristes à Wang Lang<br />
dont même de nombreux<br />
bangkokiens n’ont jamais<br />
entendu parler »<br />
5Où grignoter<br />
La cuisine de rue à Bangkok<br />
compte parmi les meilleures au<br />
monde. Si, en semaine, vous faites le<br />
quartier des affaires, ne ratez surtout pas<br />
Convent Road car vous y dégusterez la<br />
meilleure cuisine de rue de toute votre<br />
vie. On y trouve une fantastique échoppe<br />
de pad thaï (le midi seulement) et le soir<br />
tout ce que l’on peut désirer depuis de<br />
la cuisine de l’Inde avec le rôti, le porc<br />
chinois bunsand ou encore les petits<br />
pâtés de poisson thaïlandais. Si Chinatown<br />
est, à juste titre, célèbre pour sa<br />
grande cuisine de rue, le soir le quartier<br />
de Suan Plu - Soi 1 (voie 1) l’est, lui,<br />
pour ses bars avec Soi 8 comme le meilleur<br />
question nourriture, et ce jugement<br />
est sans aucun doute “mai falang” (non<br />
biaisé par les étrangers). Quoi qu’il en<br />
soit, il n’y a pas une minute à perdre,<br />
car aussi incroyable que cela puisse être,<br />
le conseil municipal de Bangkok vient<br />
d’annoncer un projet d’interdiction de<br />
la cuisine de rue.<br />
Astuce<br />
N’hésitez pas à goûter ! C’est une question<br />
de goût, mais les crêpes à la banane<br />
et au lait condensé sont irrésistibles, et<br />
vous devriez même ramener un scorpion<br />
frit à la maison comme preuve de vos<br />
vantardises quand vous rentrez !<br />
6Où faire du shopping<br />
Le marché du week-end de<br />
Chatuchak (Kamphaeng Phet 2<br />
Road) est le plus vaste de Thaïlande;<br />
il rassemble plus de 8000 étals.<br />
Dirigez-vous tout droit vers le côté<br />
consacré à l’art et quelques-uns des<br />
super petits cafés. Une fois que les<br />
touristes sont partis, de nombreux<br />
jeunes Thaïlandais aiment se rendre à<br />
JJ Green night market. Sur ce tronçon,<br />
les étals sont plus anciens et ouvrent<br />
vers 17 heures. Les bars animés restent<br />
très fréquentés bien après minuit. Sur la<br />
rive ouest du fleuve, près de l’hôpital<br />
Siriraj, se trouve Wang Lang Market.<br />
Bien qu’il soit très accessible (il suffit de<br />
prendre le bac), on ne voit pas souvent<br />
de touristes à Wang Lang dont même<br />
de nombreux Bangkokiens n’ont jamais<br />
entendu parler. Le marché flottant de<br />
Damnoen Saduak, par contre, n’est<br />
rejoignable que dans le cadre d’une<br />
excursion avec un guide et, hormis la<br />
possibilité de faire de belles photos,<br />
n’offre de nos jours plus grand chose<br />
d’authentique. Le récent EmQuartier<br />
shopping centre (emquartier.co.th) est<br />
la zone commerciale favorite des<br />
Thaïlandais fortunés tandis que celui de<br />
Central Embassy (centralembassy.com)<br />
se place certainement au rang des plus<br />
éblouissantes galeries commerciales de<br />
toute l’Asie.<br />
Astuce<br />
Pour une bonne dose de sucre et de<br />
caféine afin de repartir requinqué et de<br />
continuer ses achats, commandez simplement<br />
un yen gafair (littéralement un<br />
café froid), généralement préparé avec<br />
une portion généreuse de lait condensé.<br />
Échapper à la ville<br />
Le parc Lumphini de Bangkok<br />
Le matin, les gens se rassemblent<br />
pour s’adonner au tai chi, au yoga,<br />
à l’aérobic, mais aussi pour jouer au<br />
badminton ou pratiquer gratuitement<br />
des exercices de gymnastique.<br />
Pendant la journée, cette abondance de<br />
pelouses, de jardins tropicaux et d’eau<br />
constitue un cadre idyllique pour échapper<br />
à l’agitation du quartier d’affaire.<br />
Le parc Santichaiprakarn<br />
Pas local du tout mais, à en juger,<br />
apprécié des Thaïlandais, c’est un véritable<br />
“cirque” gratuit et quotidien où les<br />
routards hippies pratiquent jongleries,<br />
yoga, méditation et où officie parfois un<br />
cracheur de feu.<br />
Bang Krachao<br />
Dans ce petit port endormi, situé dans<br />
un coude du fleuve Chao Phraya au<br />
sud du centre-ville, il est possible de<br />
louer un vélo pour explorer les paisibles<br />
routes de campagne et le parc botanique<br />
Si Nakhon Khuean Khan si peu<br />
fréquenté.<br />
✈ Réservez votre vol<br />
Voir page 54
86 / TRANSLATED<br />
中 文<br />
津 巴 布 韦 拥 有 一 些 全 球 最 大 的 瀑<br />
布 、 古 老 的 文 化 遗 产 和 美 丽 的 狩<br />
猎 公 园 , 是 实 实 在 在 的 自 然 之<br />
杰 作<br />
到 津 巴 布 韦 旅 游 , 首 先 会 做 的 事 情<br />
之 一 就 是 叹 服 于 壮 观 的 自 然 美 景 以 及 热<br />
情 友 好 的 人 民 。 旅 行 途 中 , 不 仅 可 以 看<br />
到 一 系 列 不 同 的 地 形 景 观 , 包 括 开 阔 无<br />
边 的 高 海 拔 草 原 、 经 风 蚀 作 用 的 平 衡 石<br />
和 红 艳 似 火 的 msasa 树 , 还 可 以 游 览 悠<br />
然 闲 适 的 小 镇 , 观 赏 郁 郁 葱 葱 的 青 翠 山<br />
脉 和 奔 流 不 息 的 生 命 之 河 。<br />
维 多 利 亚 瀑 布<br />
旅 行<br />
大 自 然<br />
之 美<br />
在 抵 达 津 巴 布 韦 的 首 都 哈 拉 雷 不 久<br />
后 , 我 们 遇 到 了 一 位 健 谈 的 本 地 商 人 洛<br />
夫 莫 尔 · 库 瓦 那 (Lovemore Kuwana)。<br />
他 邀 请 我 们 在 Cottage Café 咖 啡 厅 的<br />
美 丽 花 园 里 品 尝 卡 布 奇 诺 咖 啡 ( 强 烈 推<br />
荐 ), 并 大 方 分 享 了 他 对 于 欣 赏 星 级 景<br />
点 维 多 利 亚 瀑 布 的 看 法 :“ 它 们 绝 对 是<br />
一 个 奇 迹 。 我 更 喜 欢 雨 季 去 看 , 因 为 那<br />
个 时 候 才 能 真 正 看 到 “ 轻 霭 惊 雷 ” 的<br />
奇 观 。 冬 天 去 看 的 话 , 虽 然 视 野 更 加<br />
清 晰 , 但 风 景 有 点 枯 燥 无 味 , 我 个 人<br />
很 怀 念 置 身 于 蒙 蒙 水 雾 中 的 那 种 兴 奋<br />
感 觉 。”<br />
按 照 他 的 建 议 , 几 天 后 我 们 穿 着 雨<br />
披 从 大 门 进 入 , 穿 过 一 片 迷 你 热 带 雨 林<br />
朝 着 瀑 布 的 方 向 进 发 , 随 着 我 们 不 断 前<br />
进 , 零 星 阵 雨 逐 渐 变 成 了 真 正 的 倾 盆 大<br />
雨 。 当 时 正 值 雨 季 末 期 , 所 以 赞 比 西 河<br />
处 于 最 高 水 位 , 水 流 速 度 大 约 为 每 分 钟<br />
6.25 亿 升 。 因 此 会 在 空 中 溅 起 高 达 500<br />
米 的 浪 花 , 漫 天 洒 下 , 将 你 兜 头 彻 底 打<br />
湿 。 先 收 好 相 机 ; 稍 后 会 有 拍 照 的 机<br />
会 。 当 雾 气 开 始 消 散 时 , 您 便 可 看 到 这<br />
个 巨 大 瀑 布 的 庐 山 真 面 目 。16 个 不 同<br />
的 观 景 点 让 大 多 数 人 都 能 观 赏 尽 兴 。 然<br />
而 , 如 果 喜 欢 更 加 刺 激 的 体 验 , 您 可 以<br />
冒 险 在 瀑 布 上 进 行 滑 翔 伞 运 动 或 参 加 蹦<br />
极 挑 战 。 或 者 , 还 可 以 去 往 赞 比 亚 一 侧<br />
的 维 多 利 亚 瀑 布 , 在 瀑 布 边 缘 的 一 个 天<br />
然 游 泳 池 即 魔 鬼 池 (Devil’s Pool) 中 游<br />
泳 , 感 受 接 近 死 亡 边 缘 时 的 心 脏 律 动 。<br />
如 果 您 寻 找 的 刺 激 体 验 介 于 这 两 者 之<br />
间 , 始 终 可 以 选 择 乘 坐 直 升 机 安 全 稳 健<br />
地 欣 赏 瀑 布 美 景 。<br />
多 年 来 , 观 赏 这 个 被 联 合 国 教 科 文<br />
组 织 认 定 为 世 界 遗 产 的 景 点 , 一 直 都 不<br />
太 方 便 , 主 要 原 因 是 该 地 区 的 基 础 设 施<br />
只 能 勉 强 运 转 。 但 随 着 去 年 维 多 利 亚 瀑<br />
布 国 际 机 场 (Victoria Falls International<br />
Airport) 的 开 放 , 这 种 情 况 发 生 了 改<br />
变 。 该 机 场 耗 资 1.5 亿 美 元 , 年 乘 客 容<br />
纳 量 大 约 为 150 万 人 , 并 且 新 跑 道 可 以<br />
供 一 些 世 界 上 最 大 的 喷 气 式 飞 机 进 行 起<br />
飞 和 着 陆 。<br />
古 老 历 史<br />
被 誉 为 世 界 文 化 遗 产 的 大 津 巴 布 韦<br />
遗 址 也 是 另 一 个 特 色 亮 点 , 它 是 非 洲 最<br />
重 要 的 历 史 古 迹 之 一 。 津 巴 布 韦 游 客 阿<br />
肖 克 · 库 瓦 那 (Ashok Kuwana) 指 着 “ 卫<br />
城 ”(Great Enclosure) 说 :“ 走 在 这 些<br />
壮 观 建 筑 之 中 令 我 感 到 非 常 骄 傲 。” 卫<br />
城 的 墙 壁 高 达 10 米 , 长 约 250 米 , 是<br />
撒 哈 拉 大 沙 漠 南 部 最 大 的 古 代 建 筑 。<br />
“ 这 些 复 杂 的 建 筑 向 世 界 证 明 , 我 们 祖<br />
先 那 一 辈 就 已 经 是 优 秀 的 设 计 师 了 ”,<br />
他 笑 着 说 。 这 座 古 城 曾 是 一 个 伟 大 帝 国<br />
的 都 城 , 这 个 帝 国 包 含 现 在 的 津 巴 布 韦<br />
和 莫 桑 比 克 的 国 土 , 并 且 人 们 认 为 , 在<br />
十 三 世 纪 至 十 七 世 纪 之 间 至 少 有 18,000<br />
人 居 住 在 此 。<br />
在 游 览 小 型 博 物 馆 时 , 我 们 了 解 到<br />
了 一 些 古 代 居 民 , 还 欣 赏 到 了 象 牙 、<br />
金 子 、 玻 璃 念 珠 、 珠 宝 和 中 国 瓷 器 等 出<br />
土 的 文 物 , 这 证 明 了 该 古 城 曾 是 扩 展<br />
到 远 至 中 国 的 贸 易 网 络 的 组 成 部 分 。<br />
我 们 还 得 知 , 在 当 地 绍 纳 语 中 ,zimba<br />
remabwe 的 意 思 是 “ 石 头 砌 的 房 子 ”。<br />
在 20 世 纪 70 年 代 , 大 津 巴 布 韦 遗 址 成<br />
为 黑 人 民 族 主 义 团 体 成 就 的 重 要 象 征 之<br />
后 , 该 国 的 新 领 导 人 决 定 将 国 家 的 名 字<br />
从 罗 得 西 亚 改 为 津 巴 布 韦 (1980 年 取<br />
得 独 立 )。 在 博 物 馆 里 , 我 们 还 看 到 了<br />
« 宏 伟 的 大 津 巴 布 韦 遗<br />
址 是 另 一 个 亮 点 »<br />
从 遗 址 中 恢 复 的 著 名 皂 石 鸟 雕 塑 , 皂 石<br />
鸟 形 象 现 已 成 为 该 国 的 国 家 象 征 , 甚 至<br />
被 描 绘 在 了 津 巴 布 韦 的 新 国 旗 上 。<br />
大 津 巴 布 韦 遗 址 的 停 车 场 还 有 另 一<br />
处 景 点 , 这 里 数 百 只 的 长 尾 黑 颚 猴 正<br />
等 着 您 前 来 观 赏 , 尽 管 这 对 有 些 人 而<br />
言 可 能 有 点 勉 强 。 其 中 两 只 已 经 在 我<br />
们 的 车 上 坐 了 下 来 , 一 只 刚 刚 在 我 们<br />
的 车 顶 上 拉 了 大 便 , 现 在 正 在 透 过 我<br />
们 的 挡 风 玻 璃 窥 视 车 内 寻 找 食 物 , 另<br />
一 只 则 正 在 咀 嚼 我 们 的 车 载 天 线 。 当<br />
我 们 试 图 赶 走 他 们 时 , 他 们 便 开 始 冲<br />
我 们 露 出 尖 锐 的 牙 齿 , 发 出 嘶 嘶 声 。<br />
所 以 请 将 一 切 贵 重 物 品 和 食 品 都 放 在<br />
车 内 , 因 为 在 这 些 毛 茸 茸 的 盗 贼 面<br />
前 , 没 有 什 么 是 绝 对 安 全 的 。<br />
自 然 美 景<br />
津 巴 布 韦 冷 门 但 乐 趣 颇 多 的 景 点<br />
有 很 多 , 马 托 博 国 家 公 园 (Matobo<br />
National Park) 就 是 其 中 之 一 , 这 里 拥<br />
有 令 人 迷 醉 、 充 满 怪 趣 的 平 衡 石 景 观 ,<br />
目 光 所 及 之 处 , 这 些 巨 石 三 三 两 两 以 不<br />
可 思 议 的 方 式 摇 摇 欲 坠 似 的 摞 在 一 起 ,<br />
壮 观 又 刺 激 。 这 里 还 有 一 些 世 界 上 最 壮<br />
丽 的 花 岗 岩 景 观 , 凭 借 其 雄 壮 景 致 , 该<br />
公 园 享 有 津 巴 布 韦 心 灵 家 园 的 美 称 。<br />
这 处 世 界 遗 产 保 护 区 还 隐 藏 着 一 些<br />
尉 为 壮 观 的 洞 穴 , 里 面 珍 藏 着 保 存 完 好<br />
的 壁 画 , 这 些 壁 画 大 约 是 13,000 年 前<br />
由 该 地 区 的 第 一 批 居 民 — 非 洲 原 著 民 桑<br />
人 绘 制 , 主 题 是 飞 奔 的 长 颈 鹿 、 斑 马 和<br />
大 象 。 该 保 护 区 也 是 各 类 动 物 的 家 园 ,<br />
全 球 三 分 之 一 的 鹰 类 以 及 数 量 众 多 的 黑<br />
白 犀 牛 均 生 活 在 此 , 并 且 它 还 是 该 国 密<br />
度 最 大 的 美 洲 豹 栖 息 地 。<br />
以 亮 蓝 湖 泊 而 闻 名 的 奇 诺 伊 洞 穴 ,<br />
同 样 也 值 得 游 览 一 番 。 当 您 经 教 堂 般 的
岩 石 隧 道 逐 渐 深 入 向 下 时 , 天 蓝 色 的 睡<br />
美 人 池 (Sleeping Pool) 便 突 然 出 现 在 您<br />
眼 前 , 更 有 各 色 鱼 儿 在 明 亮 清 澈 的 池 水<br />
中 畅 游 嬉 戏 。 每 人 只 需 支 付 一 百 美 元 ,<br />
就 可 在 这 个 90 米 深 的 池 水 中 进 行 水 肺<br />
潜 水 。 在 高 处 的 暗 洞 (Dark Cave) 通 过<br />
狭 窄 的 细 缝 向 下 看 , 可 以 观 赏 到 下 方 睡<br />
美 人 池 的 蓝 色 池 水 与 周 围 的 赤 土 色 岩 石<br />
和 矿 物 层 共 同 营 造 的 奇 妙 景 象 。<br />
如 果 您 想 观 赏 野 生 动 物 , 可 考 虑 游<br />
览 占 地 2,200 平 方 公 里 的 马 纳 波 尔 斯 国<br />
家 公 园 (Mana Pools National Park),<br />
几 乎 能 保 证 近 距 离 观 赏 到 大 量 的 河 马 、<br />
鳄 鱼 、 斑 马 和 大 象 。 当 然 , 您 还 可 以 看<br />
到 狮 子 , 甚 至 野 狗 、 美 洲 豹 和 猎 豹 。 该<br />
国 家 公 园 被 联 合 国 教 科 文 组 织 认 定 为 世<br />
界 文 化 遗 产 , 其 特 色 在 于 , 游 客 可 以 在<br />
没 有 向 导 陪 同 的 情 况 下 进 行 徒 步 游 览 。<br />
置 身 群 象 之 间<br />
另 一 处 值 得 游 览 的 景 点 是 位 于 津 巴<br />
布 韦 西 北 部 、 因 浩 荡 的 象 群 而 闻 名 的 万<br />
基 国 家 公 园 (Hwange National Park)。<br />
在 游 览 这 个 占 地 约 14,650 平 方 公 里 的<br />
大 型 保 护 区 时 , 我 们 看 见 了 超 过 15 头<br />
大 象 的 象 群 , 它 们 当 时 一 边 洗 澡 , 一 边<br />
用 长 长 的 鼻 子 吸 满 泥 浆 , 然 后 将 泥 浆 喷<br />
在 背 部 和 肚 子 上 。 小 象 们 无 忧 无 虑 地 在<br />
泥 水 中 欢 乐 嬉 闹 。 其 中 两 头 公 象 则 密 切<br />
地 注 视 着 我 们 。 我 们 大 气 也 不 敢 出 , 小<br />
心 地 欣 赏 着 这 个 在 野 生 动 物 电 视 节 目 中<br />
才 会 出 现 的 场 景 。<br />
我 们 是 在 Sinamatella 营 地 休 息 的 ,<br />
这 是 一 个 建 在 保 护 区 北 部 峭 壁 上 的 山 林<br />
小 屋 和 露 营 地 。 倒 上 一 杯 葡 萄 酒 , 静 静<br />
欣 赏 周 围 丛 林 的 迷 人 景 色 , 简 直 不 能 更<br />
完 美 。 在 这 里 , 您 可 以 伴 着 狮 子 咆 哮 声<br />
构 成 的 乐 章 , 欣 赏 火 红 的 太 阳 下 沉 到 地<br />
平 线 的 夕 阳 美 景 。<br />
« 到 这 里 旅 游 , 首 先<br />
会 做 的 事 情 之 一 就 是<br />
叹 服 于 壮 观 的 自 然<br />
美 景 »<br />
曼 谷 是 去 年 世 界 上 接 待 游 客 人<br />
数 最 多 的 城 市 , 但 它 还 拥 有 一<br />
种 往 往 被 游 客 忽 视 的 街 巷 魅<br />
力 。 本 文 提 供 六 条 秘 诀 , 助 您<br />
找 到 天 使 之 城 中 一 些 最 迷 人 的<br />
秘 密 景 点 。<br />
1<br />
美 景<br />
曼 谷 大 皇 宫 (The Grand Palace) 是 大 多<br />
数 曼 谷 游 览 中 的 必 去 景 点 , 宫 内 的 玉 佛<br />
寺 (Wat Phra Kaew) 金 光 闪 闪 , 高 耸<br />
的 尖 顶 直 入 天 空 。 然 而 置 身 于 熙 熙 攘 攘<br />
的 人 群 、 密 密 麻 麻 的 自 拍 杆 中 , 难 以 感<br />
受 到 曼 谷 的 灵 性 之 美 。 如 果 想 寻 幽 辟<br />
径 , 可 以 前 往 附 近 的 卧 佛 寺 (Wat Pho)<br />
或 到 河 对 面 游 览 美 丽 的 黎 明 寺 (Wat<br />
Arun)。 下 游 就 是 帕 玉 拉 翁 萨 瓦 寺 (Wat<br />
Prayurawongsawat), 这 又 是 一 个 几 乎<br />
被 外 来 人 士 完 全 忽 视 的 迷 人 寺 庙 。 金 山<br />
寺 (Sak Saket) 周 围 祈 祷 钟 罗 列 的 蜿 蜒<br />
阶 梯 , 是 曼 谷 城 中 最 迷 人 的 地 方 之 一 。<br />
从 这 里 可 以 真 正 独 自 体 验 邻 近 的 帕 玉 拉<br />
翁 萨 瓦 寺 。<br />
特 别 建 议<br />
旅 程<br />
行 家 眼 中<br />
的 曼 谷<br />
2<br />
美 酒<br />
天 使 之 城 之 所 以 能 够 吸 引 大 量 游 客 ,<br />
不 仅 在 于 这 里 有 诱 人 的 热 带 阳 光 ,<br />
而 且 还 有 缤 纷 的 夜 生 活 。 随 着 夕 阳<br />
西 下 , 泰 国 的 时 尚 达 人 便 会 在 The<br />
Never Ending Summer (facebook.com/<br />
TheNeverEndingSummer) 的 河 畔 露 台<br />
上 聚 会 , 这 是 一 个 由 冰 库 翻 新 而 来 的 鸡<br />
尾 酒 吧 和 餐 厅 , 保 留 了 冰 库 大 部 分 的<br />
“ 库 ”( 酷 ) 特 色 。 考 山 路 附 近 的 街 道<br />
上 , 尽 管 充 斥 着 喧 闹 的 背 包 客 氛 围 , 但<br />
很 少 有 外 国 游 客 能 沿 着 附 近 的 弗 拉 阿 提<br />
特 路 (Phra Athit Road) 找 到 波 西 米 亚<br />
风 格 的 学 生 酒 吧 和 泰 国 现 场 音 乐 表 演 场<br />
所 。Ekkamai 区 也 有 深 受 本 地 人 喜 爱 的<br />
轻 松 氛 围 和 一 些 僻 静 的 酒 吧 ; 如 果 想 通<br />
过 表 演 见 证 曼 谷 的 缤 纷 之 美 ,Quarter<br />
Thonglor 则 是 理 想 之 选 。<br />
特 别 建 议<br />
TRANSLATED / 87<br />
尽 情 嗨 。 万 豪 酒 店 (marriott.com) 的<br />
Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar 酒 廊 和 酒<br />
吧 供 应 美 妙 的 鸡 尾 酒 , 并 坐 拥 45 层 高<br />
楼 上 令 人 难 忘 的 360 度 壮 观 美 景 。 如 果<br />
想 低 调 一 点 , 但 仍 然 要 高 于 唐 人 街 的 水<br />
平 , 可 以 尝 试 River Vibe (riverviewbkk.<br />
com)。 当 嘟 嘟 车 司 机 都 难 以 摸 清 方 向<br />
时 , 你 就 知 道 已 经 远 离 旅 游 路 线 了 !<br />
3<br />
住 宿<br />
曼 谷 不 缺 让 您 深 入 了 解 其 热 带 魅 力 的 各<br />
色 住 宿 选 择 。 暹 罗 酒 店 (The Siam,<br />
thesiamhotel.com) 是 湄 南 河 上 的 一 家 别<br />
致 的 精 品 酒 店 , 配 备 豪 华 的 Opium Spa<br />
水 疗 中 心 、 古 老 电 影 院 , 甚 至 还 有 一 个<br />
健 身 房 并 且 内 设 可 能 是 全 球 最 时 尚 的 跆<br />
拳 道 台 。 如 果 您 想 到 河 下 游 的 市 中 心 ,<br />
只 需 登 上 私 人 VIP 汽 艇 即 可 。 查 克 洛<br />
博 瑟 别 墅 酒 店 (Chakrabongse Villas,<br />
secret-retreats.com/chakrabongse) 位 于<br />
河 畔 , 其 古 色 古 香 的 木 制 别 墅 中 提 供 由<br />
王 子 打 造 的 豪 华 住 宿 设 施 。 曼 谷 文 华 东<br />
方 酒 店 (mandarinoriental.com) 拥 有 超<br />
过 140 年 的 历 史 , 目 前 仍 是 曼 谷 最 好 的<br />
酒 店 之 一 。 入 住 传 奇 作 家 的 套 房 , 可 通<br />
过 曾 住 在 这 里 的 一 些 伟 大 作 家 的 视 线 ,<br />
欣 赏 这 座 城 市 。<br />
✈ 预 订 航 班<br />
见 第 54 页<br />
大 皇 宫 和 玉 佛 寺 在 上 午 8:30 开 门 时 人<br />
流 较 少 , 相 对 宁 静 。 早 上 早 点 到 , 可 以<br />
在 沓 汀 码 头 (Tha Tian Pier) 上 的 小 棚 屋<br />
餐 馆 享 用 早 餐 , 欣 赏 历 史 悠 久 的 湄 南 河<br />
(Chao Phraya River) 在 晨 间 展 现 生 机<br />
活 力 。<br />
特 别 建 议<br />
无 论 您 的 下 榻 之 所 位 于 何 处 , 一 定 要<br />
参 观 汤 普 生 博 物 馆 (jimthompsonhouse.<br />
com), 并 且 要 在 专 业 导 游 的 陪 同 下 游
88 / TRANSLATED<br />
中 文<br />
览 , 这 样 可 以 深 入 了 解 到 泰 国 建 筑 的<br />
历 史 。<br />
4<br />
美 食<br />
泰 国 食 物 闻 名 全 球 。 要 想 品 尝 最 精 致<br />
的 泰 国 美 食 , 推 荐 在 Nahm (facebook.<br />
com/nahmrestaurant) 预 订 餐 位 , 餐<br />
厅 的 澳 籍 主 厨 David Thompson 一 直<br />
尊 重 古 老 的 食 谱 , 并 在 此 基 础 上 独 创<br />
了 自 己 的 经 典 菜 式 。Na Aroon 餐 厅<br />
(ariyasom.com) 是 一 家 有 机 素 食 餐 厅 ,<br />
您 可 在 此 感 受 正 宗 的 泰 国 美 食 。 住 在 考<br />
山 路 附 近 的 旅 游 区 的 旅 客 , 不 妨 去 光<br />
顾 位 于 Phra Sumen Rd 路 18 号 的 Joy<br />
Luck Club, 这 是 一 个 别 致 而 奇 特 的 小<br />
餐 厅 , 店 主 是 两 姐 妹 , 热 情 好 客 , 餐 厅<br />
主 要 供 应 美 味 的 泰 国 家 常 菜 。 如 果 想<br />
在 夜 晚 品 尝 鸡 尾 酒 和 小 吃 , 可 以 前 往<br />
Sheepshank (sheepshankpublichouse.<br />
com), 位 置 就 在 太 阳 码 头 (Phra Athit<br />
Pier) 旁 边 翻 新 的 修 船 厂 里 。<br />
特 别 建 议<br />
泰 国 食 物 以 辛 辣 刺 激 闻 名 , 外 国 游 客 有<br />
时 会 感 到 担 心 , 所 以 如 果 不 知 道 要 点 什<br />
么 , 金 边 粉 (phad thai, 字 面 意 思 “ 泰<br />
式 炒 粉 ”) 是 理 想 的 备 选 方 案 。 金 边 粉<br />
(phad thai) 有 很 多 口 味 , 即 使 每 天 吃 也<br />
永 远 不 会 吃 到 同 一 口 味 。<br />
« 如 果 不 知 道 要 点 什<br />
么 , 金 边 粉 (phad<br />
thai, 字 面 意 思 “ 泰 式<br />
炒 粉 ”) 是 理 想 的 备 选<br />
方 案 »<br />
« 王 朗 集 市 上 的 游 客 非<br />
常 少 , 许 多 曼 谷 本 地 人<br />
甚 至 都 不 知 道 »<br />
5<br />
小 吃<br />
曼 谷 街 边 小 吃 的 美 味 程 度 绝 对 排 在 世 界<br />
前 列 。 如 果 您 在 工 作 日 来 到 商 业 街 区<br />
域 , 请 一 定 逛 一 下 Convent Road 路 ,<br />
那 里 有 一 些 最 好 吃 的 街 头 美 食 。 路 上 有<br />
一 家 味 道 非 常 棒 的 金 边 粉 (phad thai) 小<br />
摊 , 而 且 只 在 午 餐 时 间 营 业 , 而 到 了 晚<br />
上 , 不 论 是 印 度 薄 饼 (roti)、 中 国 叉 烧<br />
包 (buns) 还 是 泰 国 炸 鱼 饼 , 各 种 小 吃 ,<br />
应 有 尽 有 。 唐 人 街 的 街 头 美 食 虽 然 名 不<br />
虚 传 , 但 到 了 晚 上 ,Suan Plu 社 区 一 样<br />
精 彩 , 甚 至 更 好 , 这 绝 对 不 是 外 国 人 的<br />
偏 见 ,Soi 1(1 号 巷 ) 的 酒 吧 最 棒 ,Soi 8<br />
的 美 食 最 可 口 。 请 抓 紧 时 间 , 因 为 令 人<br />
难 以 置 信 的 是 , 曼 谷 的 市 议 会 已 宣 布 计<br />
划 取 缔 街 头 摊 档 , 所 以 赶 紧 趁 现 在 去 品<br />
尝 吧 。<br />
特 别 建 议<br />
一 定 不 要 犹 豫 , 大 胆 尝 试 。 虽 然 考 虑 到<br />
个 人 口 味 的 不 同 , 但 是 炼 乳 香 蕉 煎 饼 的<br />
味 道 简 直 令 人 无 法 抗 拒 , 当 然 , 炸 蝎 子<br />
也 值 得 一 试 , 即 便 只 为 了 能 在 回 家 后 向<br />
别 人 夸 耀 !<br />
6<br />
购 物<br />
Kamphaeng Phet 2 Road 路 上 的 乍<br />
都 乍 周 末 市 场 (Chatuchak Weekend<br />
Market) 是 泰 国 最 大 的 市 场 , 拥 有 8000<br />
多 个 摊 位 。 直 接 走 近 路 , 可 以 欣 赏 到 一<br />
些 小 巧 咖 啡 店 的 艺 术 之 美 。 待 游 客 散 去<br />
后 , 许 多 泰 国 年 轻 人 会 走 上 马 路 , 去 往<br />
JJ Green 夜 市 。 这 排 老 式 摊 位 下 午 5 点<br />
左 右 开 摊 , 动 感 活 力 的 酒 吧 直 到 午 夜 仍<br />
然 人 流 熙 攘 。 在 河 西 侧 的 诗 里 拉 吉 医 院<br />
(Siriraj Hospital) 附 近 , 还 有 一 个 王 朗<br />
集 市 (Wang Lang Market)。 尽 管 乘 坐<br />
任 何 交 通 艇 都 可 以 到 达 这 里 , 但 集 市 上<br />
的 游 客 非 常 少 , 许 多 曼 谷 本 地 人 甚 至 都<br />
不 知 道 。 而 另 一 方 面 , 丹 嫩 沙 多 水 上 市<br />
场 (Damnoen Saduak Floating Market)<br />
只 有 预 订 旅 游 时 才 能 去 , 除 了 能 够 拍 摄<br />
一 些 精 美 照 片 外 , 期 间 的 体 验 算 不 上<br />
正 宗 地 道 。 新 的 EmQuartier 购 物 中 心<br />
(emquartier.co.th) 是 泰 国 时 尚 人 士 最<br />
喜 爱 的 购 物 场 所 , 而 Central Embassy<br />
(centralembassy.com) 绝 对 是 亚 洲 最 令<br />
人 眼 花 缭 乱 的 购 物 中 心 之 一 。<br />
特 别 建 议<br />
如 果 想 喝 一 些 含 有 咖 啡 因 / 糖 的 饮 料 补<br />
充 能 量 继 续 疯 狂 购 物 , 只 需 要 点 上 一 杯<br />
gafair yen, 一 种 通 常 配 有 大 量 炼 乳 的 冷<br />
咖 啡 。<br />
远 离 尘 嚣<br />
曼 谷 是 乐 园 (Lumphini Park)<br />
早 上 , 人 们 会 聚 集 在 这 个 免 费 健 身 场<br />
所 , 进 行 慢 跑 、 打 太 极 、 练 瑜 伽 、 跳<br />
健 美 操 、 打 羽 毛 球 或 健 身 。 这 里 有 广<br />
阔 的 草 坪 、 热 带 花 园 和 水 道 , 是 远 离<br />
喧 嚣 商 业 区 的 世 外 桃 源 。<br />
山 提 柴 帕 堪 公 园 (Santichaiprakarn<br />
Park)<br />
虽 然 公 园 里 不 完 全 是 本 地 人 , 但 泰 国<br />
人 似 乎 也 享 受 免 费 的 每 日 “ 马 戏 团 ”<br />
表 演 , 因 为 嬉 皮 士 背 包 客 会 出 现 在 这<br />
里 进 行 杂 耍 、 瑜 伽 、 冥 想 甚 至 偶 尔 进<br />
行 会 口 吐 火 焰 表 演 。<br />
邦 喀 造 公 园 (Bang Krachao)<br />
这 个 清 幽 的 乡 村 天 堂 坐 落 在 市 中 心 以<br />
南 的 湄 南 河 弯 道 上 , 您 可 以 租 一 辆 自<br />
行 车 探 索 深 幽 静 寂 的 乡 村 小 巷 , 以 及<br />
几 乎 未 被 开 发 的 Si Nakhon Khuean<br />
Khan 植 物 园 。<br />
✈ 预 订 航 班<br />
见 第 56 页
SAFIRI NJEMA / 91<br />
Kenya achieved the largest-ever<br />
crowd at an IAAF U18 World<br />
Championships in July <strong>2017</strong>.<br />
Kenya came fourth at the <strong>2017</strong><br />
IAAF U18 World Campionships,<br />
achieving 15 medals.<br />
Safari Njema<br />
Among the Medals<br />
Kenya Airways’ (KQ) cabin<br />
crew ushered in the winners’<br />
medals at the IAAF U18<br />
World Championships in July.<br />
The four-day athletics event<br />
(sponsored by KQ) attracted<br />
over 130 countries and 800<br />
participating athletes. It was<br />
the first global sporting-event<br />
to be hosted in Kenya.<br />
Over 20 members of the KQ<br />
cabin crew were privileged to<br />
carry the medals to the<br />
podium in front of a vibrant<br />
near-capacity crowd at the<br />
Kasarani stadium. Almost<br />
55,000 spectators attended<br />
the penultimate session on<br />
the last day, making it the<br />
best-attended session of any<br />
under-18 athletics event.<br />
Getty Images
SAFARI NJEMA / 93<br />
The East African<br />
Safari Classic rally’s<br />
attrition rate can<br />
exceed 90 percent<br />
News<br />
✈ KQ serves more than 10,000<br />
meals on board, making it the<br />
largest restaurant in Kenya.<br />
Golf<br />
A Hole in One<br />
Kenya Airways and KLM co-sponsored a golf day at<br />
The Dutch in Spijk, the Netherlands, where the <strong>2017</strong><br />
KLM Open competition will take place.<br />
Over 100 Platinum Elite and Platinum members (who fly to<br />
Africa) took part along with a team of four Kenya Airways<br />
(KQ) SkyTeam members from Nairobi: Moses Matsiko<br />
Baryamujura, Carol Abade, and Qaher and Azhar Madhani.<br />
Flight attendants Saida Rashid and Jackline Munene helped<br />
welcome the guests and promoted KQ at the event.<br />
Qaher Madhani, from Nairobi, came second and will now play<br />
at the KLM Open (14-17 September). An Amazing Africa<br />
day will take place as part of the competition, highlighting the<br />
KLM/Kenya Airways partnership with various activities.<br />
Other airline partners to have sponsored KLM golf days<br />
include: Delta Air Lines, China Southern and Air France.<br />
Motorsport<br />
Racing Ahead<br />
Kenya Airways is sponsoring the eighth edition of<br />
the biennial East African Safari Classic Rally. It’s<br />
the seventh edition under Kenya Airways’ title<br />
sponsorship, which started in 2003.<br />
Beginning at Sarova Whitesands in Mombasa and traversing<br />
4,000 km of the world’s most captivating landscapes in both<br />
Kenya and Tanzania, this year’s race will see some of the big<br />
names return to the fold. The 1984 World Rally Champion<br />
Stig Blomqvist will be back to defend the title he won for the<br />
first time in 2015. The Swede will renew his rivalry with local<br />
hero and six-time Kenya National Rally Champion Ian<br />
Duncan. South Africa’s Geoff Bell and French veteran<br />
Philippe Gache add to the experienced line-up. With many<br />
competitors aiming for a best-ever finish, the <strong>2017</strong> race could<br />
be the closest yet.<br />
Speaking at the company headquarters, where he was attending<br />
the official launch, Kenya Airways’ Ground Services Director<br />
Francis Musila said that the airline was proud to sponsor the<br />
world’s greatest rally, and highlighted the event’s significance in<br />
promoting trade, tourism and business opportunities for Kenya<br />
and the East African community. “We are committed to<br />
continued investments in support of various sports disciplines<br />
in our resolve to grow and facilitate sports tourism in Kenya<br />
and the region at large,” he said, speaking on behalf of Kenya<br />
Airways’ Managing Director and CEO Sebastian Mikosz.<br />
Musila added that the company is committed to playing a lead<br />
role in growing the East African Safari Classic to claim even<br />
more glory and recognition in the motorsports world. He called<br />
on fans and spectators to come and support the rally, which<br />
will take place from 23 November to 1 December.<br />
“We live, breathe<br />
and do everything<br />
rally”<br />
− Natasha and Carl Tundo −<br />
Rally drivers
94 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
Want to know the carbon<br />
emission of your flight?<br />
Visit climatecare.org<br />
and click on the<br />
carbon calculator.<br />
News<br />
✈ Kenya Airways’ Pride Centre<br />
was recognised as a 2015<br />
Africa Top Performing IATA<br />
Authorized Training Center.<br />
Education<br />
Pride Centre Reaches Milestone<br />
On 26 July, it was 10 years since Kenya Airways’<br />
Pride Centre opened its doors as Africa’s premier<br />
training establishment.<br />
With unique state-of-the-art facilities, the Pride Centre is<br />
the hub of all learning activities at Kenya Airways (KQ). It<br />
can host up to 517 participants daily. Over the years, this<br />
facility has grown to offer training to other corporations<br />
across Africa. It now conducts most of its training courses<br />
internally with its own instructors. The B787 Systems course<br />
is the latest addition.<br />
In May 2013, the Pride Centre became the first training<br />
school in the world to simultaneously carry all three<br />
accreditations: IATA Authorized Training Center, IATA<br />
Accredited School and IATA Regional Training Center.<br />
As part of the recent KQ School Open Day, the Pride Centre<br />
hosted 50 students from Bright Hope, an education centre in<br />
Dagoretti Sub-County (Nairobi). During the day, students<br />
gained industry insights, career guidance, and visited the<br />
flight simulator and aircraft hangars. They also met Captain<br />
Peter Maranga, a mentor and volunteer, who shared his life<br />
experience with them.<br />
“You don’t have to be<br />
the best, identify the best<br />
and work with them”<br />
− Jack Ma −<br />
Chinese business man<br />
Sustainability<br />
Improving Lives<br />
The Wildlife Works Kasigau Corridor REDD+<br />
project protects 500,000 acres of dryland forest<br />
in South East Kenya and improves the lives of<br />
communities that live in and around the area.<br />
Wildlife Works, Kenya Airways’ carbon-offsetting partner, is<br />
located in Taita Taveta County, an arid coastal region where<br />
the average annual rainfall is less than 400 mm per year.<br />
These conditions are not ideal for agriculture. In this rural<br />
area – where there is no real industry, and high poverty –<br />
communities were previously forced to exploit their natural<br />
resources to survive.<br />
As well as creating small-scale industries for sustainable job<br />
creation, Wildlife Works has a greenhouse team that works with<br />
these communities to improve agricultural yields and reduce<br />
environmental degradation. The team encourages climate-smart<br />
agriculture and increases awareness of organic farming<br />
techniques. Local farmers learn vital skills, such as using drip<br />
irrigation to conserve water, repelling large insects without<br />
chemicals and making organic compost.<br />
Thanks to the support of Kenya Airways’ customers who<br />
choose to offset their flights, Wildlife Works is able to help<br />
local people to farm more efficiently, protect wildlife and<br />
uplift local communities.<br />
~ The KQ offset programme, run by ClimateCare, is approved by the<br />
International Air Transport Association as a way to take responsibility<br />
for unavoidable carbon emissions during your flight. If you want to<br />
offset your flight on landing, visit wildlifeworks.com/shopcarbon/<br />
Lisa Kristine
How many Miles did you<br />
earn while flying to your<br />
current destination? Find out<br />
online with the Flying Blue<br />
Miles Calculator.<br />
Flying Blue<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 95<br />
✈ There are new discounted award<br />
tickets, or Promo Awards, available<br />
every month, saving you up<br />
to 50 percent on Award Miles.<br />
Membership levels<br />
Miles!<br />
Miles!<br />
Miles!<br />
The Flying Blue frequent flyer programme allows you to earn<br />
Award Miles for every flight you take with Kenya Airways or<br />
a SkyTeam partner.You can redeem your Miles to fly with<br />
KQ-operated flights or upgrade your seats to Business Class.<br />
There are four membership levels in Flying Blue and with each qualifying<br />
flight you take, you earn Level Miles. When you first enrol, you will be<br />
awarded Ivory status, which progresses to Silver, Gold and ultimately<br />
Platinum. The more you travel with KQ or one of our partner airlines,<br />
the higher your level becomes, which results in you earning more Award<br />
Miles and enjoying more benefits.<br />
Award Miles can be redeemed for flights to destinations selected by<br />
Kenya Airways or our SkyTeam partner airlines. Your accumulated<br />
Award Miles remain valid for 20 months, which can be extended every<br />
time you fly with Kenya Airways or one of our SkyTeam partners, if you<br />
fly at least once every 20 months. The total number of Miles credited to<br />
your account depends on the distance you have flown and travel class<br />
that you have chosen.<br />
~ Enrol now and start to enjoy the benefits Flying Blue has to offer.<br />
Go to flyingblue.com for more information and to sign up.<br />
1<br />
Exchange<br />
Award Miles can be redeemed for a flight to<br />
any Kenya Airways destination or an upgrade to<br />
Business Class.<br />
2<br />
Check<br />
Your choice of destination determines the<br />
number of Miles required for your Award ticket. So<br />
please check if you have sufficient Miles for your<br />
choice. You can check this on flyingblue.com. It is<br />
advisable to have flexible date options in case your<br />
initial choice is not available.<br />
3<br />
Redeem<br />
Once you have made your choice, you can<br />
redeem your Award Miles in several ways:<br />
A. Call the Kenya Airways contact centres in<br />
Nairobi on +254 20 327 4747; +254 734 104747<br />
or +254 711 024747.<br />
B. Visit kenya-airways.com and go to<br />
Flying Blue and then Award Booking.<br />
C. Visit flyingblue.com and go to Spend Miles.<br />
For further information, you can always contact us<br />
at kenya-airways.custhelp.com.<br />
4<br />
Tax<br />
Award Miles do not cover tax charges. These<br />
will need to be paid for by you, and can be done so<br />
via credit card, M-Pesa or a cash payment at any<br />
Kenya Airways office.<br />
5<br />
Easy Does It<br />
Five steps to make<br />
the most of your Miles.<br />
Ticket<br />
Once payment has been received, your e-ticket<br />
will be sent to you by email.<br />
~ Award tickets are subject to seat availability. In the<br />
event that no seats are available, you can opt for a Flex<br />
Award, which gives you a confirmed ticket for double the<br />
Award Miles.<br />
~ Award Miles can be used to upgrade to Business<br />
Class when you have already purchased an Economy<br />
Class Kenya Airways ticket on B, Y, M and U classes for<br />
all routes. All upgrades are subject to seat availability in<br />
Business Class.
SAFARI NJEMA / 97<br />
SkyTeam operates more than<br />
16,609 departures a day to 1,074<br />
destinations in 177 countries, and<br />
offers SkyTeam members 600+<br />
lounges in airports worldwide.<br />
SkyTeam<br />
✈ Founded in June 2000, SkyTeam is a<br />
major airline alliance that consists of 20<br />
carriers from five continents.<br />
SkyPriority<br />
The Feedback Loop<br />
SkyTeam became the first global airline<br />
alliance to offer aligned priority benefits<br />
for top customers when it launched<br />
SkyPriority in 2012. This service makes<br />
travel more seamless for those flying<br />
First Class, Business Class and Elite<br />
Plus on all SkyTeam member airlines.<br />
Today, SkyPriority is offered at more<br />
than 1,000 airports globally.<br />
Creating an ideal airport experience.<br />
“We make travel faster<br />
and more convenient”<br />
– SkyTeam –<br />
It’s a clear demonstration that we care<br />
about our customers, but that we also<br />
care what they have to say. Last year we<br />
launched the SkyPriority Audit App,<br />
to collect customers’ feedback on their<br />
SkyPriority service each time they fly.<br />
With every audit we receive, we’re<br />
getting closer to our goal of creating<br />
an ideal airport experience for all.<br />
You can help us<br />
Make<br />
SkyPriority<br />
even better<br />
1Eligible customers wishing to join SkyPriority<br />
panel can enrol via skyteam.com by<br />
downloading the SkyPriority Audit App to their<br />
smartphone. It’s quick, free and easy to do.<br />
Open the app when you get to the airport.<br />
2 If you forget, the app knows where you are<br />
and will send you a push reminder.<br />
3Audit your experience at each SkyPriority<br />
step along the way. From check-in and<br />
bag drop-off to boarding and bag collection –<br />
the more information you give us the better.<br />
Why not upload a photo to accompany your<br />
feedback?<br />
4Submit your audit. Your feedback is sent to<br />
SkyTeam and then forwarded to the airline<br />
concerned. We have invested in technology to<br />
make this happen in real-time.<br />
5SkyTeam and its members are committed to<br />
ensuring consistent delivery of the alliance’s<br />
priority services. Your feedback is key to this<br />
consistency. Queues too long, boarding out of<br />
line? If something needs fixing at one of our<br />
global airports, please let us know and we<br />
will inform the relevant airlines and teams for<br />
improvements in service delivery.<br />
6And if you’ve had a great experience – and<br />
we hope so – tell us! We are committed to<br />
delivering excellence to our member airlines’<br />
customers who have access to SkyPriority.<br />
~ Eligible? Find out more and sign up.<br />
Next time you fly, take the time to audit<br />
your SkyPriority experience. This will help<br />
us to improve the service we offer you<br />
and thousands of customers, shaping the<br />
future of business travel. We’re delighted<br />
to have you onboard.
98 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
Global Network<br />
London<br />
GREAT-BRITAIN<br />
THE NETHERLANDS<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Paris<br />
FRANCE<br />
SUDAN<br />
SAUDI ARABIA<br />
Jeddah<br />
Dubai<br />
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES<br />
Mumbai<br />
SENEGAL<br />
Dakar<br />
Bamako<br />
Freetown<br />
SIERRA LEONE<br />
Monrovia<br />
LIBERIA<br />
MALI<br />
COTE<br />
D'IVOIRE<br />
Abidjan<br />
BENIN<br />
NIGERIA<br />
GHANA Lagos<br />
Accra<br />
Cotonou CAMEROON<br />
Douala<br />
Yaoundé<br />
Brazzaville<br />
Kinshasa<br />
Luanda<br />
CENTRAL<br />
AFRICAN REPUBLIC<br />
Bangui<br />
DEMOCRATIC<br />
REPUBLIC OF<br />
THE CONGO<br />
Khartoum<br />
SOUTH SUDAN<br />
Juba<br />
UGANDA KENYA<br />
Entebbe/Kampala Kisumu<br />
Kigali<br />
RWANDA<br />
Bujumbura Kilimanjaro<br />
BURUNDI<br />
TANZANIA<br />
Addis<br />
Ababa<br />
ETHIOPIA<br />
NAIROBI<br />
Dar es Salaam<br />
Djibouti<br />
DJIBOUTI<br />
Malindi<br />
Mombasa<br />
Moroni/COMOROS<br />
Lubumbashi<br />
ANGOLA<br />
MALAWI<br />
Dzaoudzi/MAYOTTE<br />
Ndola Lilongwe<br />
ZAMBIA<br />
Lusaka<br />
Blantyre<br />
Nampula<br />
Livingstone<br />
Victoria Harare<br />
Falls<br />
Antananarivo<br />
ZIMBABWE<br />
MADAGASCAR<br />
MOZAMBIQUE<br />
Mahé<br />
SEYCHELLES<br />
INDIA<br />
Johannesburg<br />
Maputo<br />
SOUTH<br />
AFRICA<br />
Cape Town<br />
Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism
SAFARI NJEMA / 99<br />
Kenya Airways Fleet<br />
Boeing 737-700<br />
Aircraft 2; Seats Economy 100, Premier 16; Crew 7;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 40”; Max. take-off weight<br />
70,080kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 6,225km;<br />
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.785;<br />
Thrust per engine at sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m;<br />
Length 33.6m; Interior cabin width 3.53m<br />
CHINA<br />
Hanoi<br />
VIETNAM<br />
Bangkok<br />
THAILAND<br />
Guangzhou<br />
Hong Kong<br />
HONG KONG<br />
Boeing 787 Dreamliner<br />
Aircraft 7; Seats Economy 204, Premier 30; Crew 14;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 32”; Premier 75”; Max. take-off weight<br />
227,930kg; Fuel capacity 126,903 litres; Range 14,500km;<br />
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.85; Thrust per<br />
engine at sea level 69,800lbs; Wing span 60.1m; Length<br />
56.7m; Interior cabin width 5.49m<br />
Boeing 737-800<br />
Aircraft 8; Seats Economy 129, Premier 16; Crew 8;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 47”; Max. take-off weight<br />
79,015kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 5,665km; Typical<br />
cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.78; Thrust per engine at<br />
sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m; Length 39.5m;<br />
Interior cabin width 3.53m<br />
Embraer 190<br />
Aircraft 15; Seats Economy 84, Premier 12; Crew 7;<br />
Seat pitch Economy 31”, Premier 38”; Max. take-off weight<br />
51,800kg; Fuel capacity 16,153 litres; Range 2,935km;<br />
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.82; Thrust per<br />
engine at sea level 20,000lbs; Wing span 28.72m;<br />
Length 36.24m; Interior cabin width 2.74m
100 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
Kenya is named after<br />
Mount Kenya, the tallest<br />
mountain in the country<br />
(5,199 m).<br />
Welcome to Kenya<br />
✈ Passengers travelling in<br />
a group of at least<br />
10 (economy cabin) or<br />
5 (business cabin) can<br />
request for a group fare.<br />
Practical tips<br />
What & How<br />
Getty Images<br />
Getting around<br />
On Arrival<br />
TO THE CITY<br />
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is about a 30-minute drive away<br />
from Nairobi city. Moi International Airport, Mombasa is a 20-minute<br />
drive to Mombasa city. More time is needed during rush hour.<br />
VISA<br />
Most visitors to Kenya require a visa. Multiple and single entry visas are<br />
available. You can apply at any Kenya High Commission or Embassy<br />
prior to travelling. The single entry visa (obtainable upon arrival at the<br />
airport) is US$50 (correct at time of print) or the equivalent in local currency.<br />
You will also require a passport that is valid for three months from<br />
the moment of entry.<br />
Health<br />
Emergency services<br />
Dial 999. Note that<br />
ambulance services are<br />
mostly private. Services<br />
include: St Johns<br />
Ambulance +254 72 161<br />
1555 or Kenya Red<br />
Cross Ambulance<br />
+254 71 771 4938.<br />
Hospitals<br />
Nairobi and Mombasa<br />
have good hospitals.<br />
Medical expenses<br />
Make sure you have<br />
adequate travel health<br />
insurance and accessible<br />
funds to cover the cost of<br />
any medical treatment.<br />
Consultations and<br />
treatments will have to<br />
be paid for at the time,<br />
and the costs claimed<br />
back later.<br />
General<br />
Voltage<br />
240 volts AC, using<br />
three-square-pin,<br />
13-amp-type plugs.<br />
Security<br />
It is advisable not to walk<br />
alone in isolated areas<br />
in towns or on beaches,<br />
particularly after dark.<br />
Tipping<br />
Tips are appreciated. Most<br />
hotels/restaurants add a<br />
10 percent service charge.<br />
Water<br />
It is wise to drink or use<br />
only boiled or bottled water,<br />
and to avoid ice in drinks.<br />
Self-drive<br />
Traffic adheres to the lefthand<br />
side of the road, and<br />
most cars are right-hand<br />
drive. A current driving<br />
licence with photograph is<br />
accepted for up to a threemonth<br />
stay.<br />
Public transport<br />
Nairobi is the only city with<br />
an effective municipal bus<br />
service. Local (private)<br />
matatus are the main<br />
means of getting around.<br />
Taxi service Uber operates<br />
in Nairobi and Mombasa.<br />
Photography<br />
Taking photographs of<br />
official buildings, including<br />
embassies, can lead to<br />
detention. Photography is<br />
also prohibited at airports.<br />
Embassies & consulates<br />
All embassies are<br />
located in Nairobi.<br />
ID<br />
You must carry a valid form<br />
of ID with you at all times.<br />
Post office<br />
Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.,<br />
Mondays to Fridays; and 9<br />
a.m. to 12 noon Saturdays.<br />
Telephone/internet<br />
Phone cards may be<br />
bought from post offices<br />
or international call<br />
offices. Emails can be sent<br />
from most hotels.<br />
Money matters<br />
Currency<br />
Kenyan shilling (KES)<br />
Currency regulations<br />
There are no restrictions on<br />
the movement of currency<br />
into or out of Kenya for<br />
currency transactions.<br />
Banking<br />
Banks are generally open<br />
from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.,<br />
Mondays to Fridays;<br />
and 9 a.m. to 12 noon<br />
Saturdays. Banks in<br />
coastal towns open<br />
and close half an hour<br />
earlier. Most ATMs accept<br />
international VISA cards.<br />
Credit cards<br />
Visa and MasterCard are<br />
widely accepted.<br />
Hotel bill payment<br />
Pay in Kenyan shillings or<br />
convertible currency.<br />
Most hotels also accept<br />
credit cards.<br />
Gulu
SAFARI HABARI NJEMA //101<br />
SOUTH-<br />
SUDAN<br />
ETHIOPIA<br />
Lokichokio<br />
Muruasigar<br />
2149 m<br />
Songot 1755 m<br />
Central<br />
Island<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Namoratunga<br />
Stones<br />
Lodwar<br />
LAKE<br />
TURKANA<br />
Sibiloi<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
CHALBI DESERT<br />
Moyale<br />
Malka Mari<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
LAKE<br />
VICTORIA<br />
UGANDA<br />
Nasolot<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
TANZANIA<br />
South<br />
Turkana<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Masai Mara<br />
National Reserve<br />
South<br />
Island<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
RIFT VALLEY<br />
Nairobi<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
LAKE<br />
MAGADI<br />
Shompole<br />
Conservancy<br />
Loiyangalani<br />
Mt Kulal 2285 m<br />
Marsabit<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Losai<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Marsabit<br />
Marsabit<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Maralal<br />
Saiwa<br />
National Matthew’s Peak<br />
Swamp<br />
Sanctuary 2375 m<br />
Mt Elgon<br />
National<br />
National Park<br />
Kaisungua<br />
Maralal<br />
Reserve<br />
Kitale<br />
3167 m<br />
Samburu<br />
National<br />
Mt Elgon<br />
Kerio Valley<br />
Reserve<br />
Shaba National<br />
4322 m<br />
National Reserve<br />
Reserve<br />
ELDORET<br />
Archer’s Post<br />
LAKE BARINGA<br />
Kakamega<br />
Buffalo Springs<br />
Forest Reserve<br />
Lake Bogoria Isiolo<br />
National<br />
Meru<br />
Reserve<br />
Kakamega<br />
National Reserve<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Ndere Island<br />
Nanyuki<br />
National Park<br />
KISUMU<br />
Meru<br />
Mt Londiani<br />
Rusinga Island<br />
Kericho<br />
3000 m<br />
North<br />
Nakuru<br />
Mt Kenya Kitu<br />
Lake Nakuru<br />
5199 m<br />
National<br />
Mfangango<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Nyerri Embu<br />
Reserve<br />
Island<br />
Kisii<br />
Muranga’a Mwea<br />
Ruma<br />
Hell’s Gate<br />
National<br />
National<br />
National Park<br />
Mt Longonot 2777 m Reserve<br />
Park<br />
RIFT VALLEY<br />
Longonot National Park<br />
Thika<br />
Migori<br />
Narok<br />
NAIROBI<br />
Oi Donyo National Park<br />
Chantal van Wessel<br />
OFFICES & AGENTS<br />
Head Office Airport North Road, Embakasi<br />
P.O. Box: 19002 – 00501 Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 (0)20 6422000,<br />
Safaricom +254 0711 02 2000, Airtel +254 0734 10 2000<br />
Contact Centre (24 hours) Tel +254 (0)20 3274747<br />
Safaricom +254 0711 02 4747, Airtel +254 0734 10 4747<br />
Email: customer.relations@kenya-airways.com<br />
JKIA Sales Office Terminal 1C – International Departures<br />
Tel +254 (0)20 6423506/8,<br />
Terminal 1D – Domestic Departures Tel +254 (0)20 6423570<br />
Baggage Services Tel +254 0737 33 3954<br />
Email: delayedbaggage.nbo@kenya-airways.com<br />
KENYA<br />
Voi<br />
Kora<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Kajiado<br />
West<br />
Chyulu Game<br />
Conservation<br />
Area<br />
Amboseli<br />
National Park<br />
Tsavo<br />
East<br />
National<br />
Tsavo West<br />
Park<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Mt Kilimanjaro 5895 m<br />
Rahole<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Mwaluganje<br />
Elephant<br />
Sanctuary<br />
Shimba Hills<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Garissa<br />
MOMBASA<br />
Wajir<br />
Tana River<br />
Primate National<br />
Reserve<br />
Arabuko<br />
Malindi Marine<br />
Sokoke<br />
National Park<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
MALINDI<br />
Watamu Marine<br />
National Park<br />
Kilifi<br />
Diani<br />
Kisite Marine National Park<br />
Kisite Marine National Park<br />
Boni<br />
National<br />
Arawale Reserve<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
Dodori<br />
National<br />
Reserve<br />
SOMALIA<br />
INDIAN<br />
OCEAN<br />
100 km
Iten, a town in the highlands of the<br />
Rift Valley, at an altitude of 2400 m,<br />
is seen as the centre of Kenyan<br />
long-distance running.<br />
Magical Kenya<br />
SAFARI NJEMA / 103<br />
✈ KQ Holidays offers<br />
packages to Kenya Airways’<br />
destinations and beyond.<br />
kqholidays.com<br />
IAAF U18 World Championships<br />
A Milestone in Sports Tourism<br />
Getty Images<br />
The recent IAAF World U18<br />
Championships demonstrated that<br />
sport has the power to unite a<br />
world of increasing diversity.<br />
The event was an opportunity for<br />
Magical Kenya to showcase Kenya to<br />
the world as a viable and vibrant<br />
destination for sports tourism.While<br />
Kenya features a unique and glorious<br />
blend of diverse wildlife, landscapes,<br />
adventure, as well as a rich culture and<br />
heritage, the Kenya Tourism Board is<br />
keen to diversify and attract visitors<br />
through the lesser-known experiences<br />
and attractions. Sports offer Magical<br />
Kenya this opportunity.<br />
Today, sport is regarded as one of the<br />
leading industries in the leisure sector. It<br />
constitutes an integral part of a country’s<br />
tourism diversity. Indeed, sport is fast<br />
emerging as a major driver for tourism<br />
destinations around the world.<br />
The United Nations World Tourism<br />
Organization (UNWTO) estimates that<br />
sports tourism is worth US$800 billion<br />
constituting more than 10 percent of the<br />
international travel and tourism receipts.<br />
In some countries, sports tourism<br />
accounts for 25 percent of all tourism<br />
receipts, rising to as much as 55 percent<br />
in Australia and parts of New Zealand.<br />
Due to these rising numbers, major<br />
tourism destinations are developing<br />
products around leisure and adventure<br />
sports. This diversity enables destinations<br />
to stand out among their competitors<br />
and increase their competitive advantage<br />
in the international arena.<br />
There are now over 1.1 billion annual<br />
international tourist arrivals worldwide,<br />
with the UNWTO predicting that by<br />
2020 this will rise to 1.4 Billion.<br />
Tourism now accounts for nine percent<br />
of the global GDP, one in eleven jobs<br />
worldwide and has a value of over<br />
US$1.5 trillion in exports. Within this<br />
resilient and multi-faceted industry,<br />
sports-related tourism is now presenting<br />
major opportunities for both emerging<br />
and mature destinations. Indeed, many<br />
observers regard international sports<br />
tourism as being one of the primary<br />
reasons for this growth.<br />
Over 500 million spectators around the<br />
world tuned in to watch the football<br />
World Cup in South Africa. Nearly half<br />
a million foreign fans visit host countries<br />
for the first time during events such as<br />
this. Indeed, Kenya experienced this<br />
influx of sport tourists first hand at the<br />
IAAF World U18 Championships.<br />
Magical Kenya remains inspired by this<br />
phenomenon and we believe that by<br />
investing in sports tourism, we can bring<br />
the citizens of the World to Kenya.
SAFARI NJEMA / 105<br />
Cargo<br />
Fresh Meat<br />
Low Temperature, High Quality<br />
Text: Ben Clark Photo: Getty Images<br />
Fresh meat can only be preserved<br />
for short periods because the<br />
mechanisms responsible for<br />
deterioration – microorganisms<br />
and enzymatic activity – increase<br />
with time. Kenya Airways’ strict<br />
cargo policies ensure that fresh<br />
meats arrive in perfect condition.<br />
Kenya Airways (KQ) transports 100<br />
tonnes of fresh goat and lamb per<br />
week to Dubai and 500 kg of Farmer’s<br />
Choice beef/chicken sausages per week to<br />
Khartoum (Sudan) and Accra, Ghana.<br />
Islamic imams inspect live goats and<br />
lambs before certifying them as halal.<br />
They are then slaughtered as per Islamic<br />
rites before being put in cold storage.<br />
“These special products help Kenyan<br />
farmers get good returns while providing<br />
clients with high-quality food from<br />
reputable suppliers,” says Boniface<br />
Mugugu, Cargo Sales & Customer<br />
Service Executive at KQ.<br />
KQ monitors several important factors<br />
including the initial microbial load,<br />
temperature, integrity of the packaging<br />
and the species of animal transported.<br />
Any of these elements can lead to<br />
spoiled food if they are not properly<br />
managed. Initial colour changes,<br />
unpleasant odour and flavour are<br />
indications of spoiled meat. To counter<br />
these effects, it’s necessary to keep fresh<br />
meat at constant low temperatures.<br />
The initial microbial load becomes<br />
significant when storage temperatures<br />
cannot be maintained properly. A small<br />
increase of a few degrees may result in<br />
food spoilage by microorganism growth.<br />
KQ’s adherence to the cold-chain –<br />
the temperature-controlled supply chain<br />
– ensures that optimum temperatures<br />
for fresh meats (2°C-8°C) are constantly<br />
maintained.
106 / SAFARI NJEMA<br />
KQ won the Best<br />
Business Class in<br />
Africa for four years<br />
in a row from World<br />
Travel Awards.<br />
Get Comfortable<br />
✈ KQ received an International<br />
Safety Award in 2016 and <strong>2017</strong><br />
from the British Safety Council.<br />
What you need to know<br />
Flight Mode<br />
Safety<br />
Please watch the safety demonstration before<br />
take-off and refer to the leaflet in your seat<br />
pocket. Smoking is prohibited on all flights.<br />
Electronic devices including laptops, tablets<br />
and mobile phones may not be used during<br />
take-off and landing.<br />
Hand luggage<br />
Place hand luggage in the overhead storage<br />
or beneath the seat in front of you. Cabin crew<br />
will remove hand luggage from passengers<br />
seated in exit rows for take-off and landing.<br />
1 Get a good night’s sleep, eat a light<br />
meal and take some gentle exercise<br />
before your flight.<br />
Travel<br />
On The Move<br />
Six top tips for a healthy and comfortable journey<br />
2 Wear comfortable clothing and shoes.<br />
3 Keep your circulation going by standing<br />
up and walking in the aisle when<br />
possible. Flex muscles in your feet, arms,<br />
shoulders and neck.<br />
4 Low cabin humidity on longer<br />
journeys can cause dry eyes, nose and<br />
throat. Remove contact lenses and apply<br />
moisturiser and lip balm. Avoid salt,<br />
drink plenty of water and moderate<br />
your intake of alcohol, tea and coffee.<br />
“Whatever you are looking<br />
for is also looking for you”<br />
– Sahndra Fon Dufe –<br />
Cameroon-born actress and author<br />
5 When travelling across time zones<br />
your body’s sleep rhythms can become<br />
disrupted, leading to insomnia, loss of<br />
appetite and fatigue. Try to give yourself<br />
some time to adjust to new night and<br />
day cycles when you arrive.<br />
6 On arrival spend as much time as<br />
possible outside. Sunlight helps your<br />
body to adjust to a new time zone.<br />
Seat adjustments<br />
Ensure your seat is upright for take-off and<br />
landing.<br />
Infants<br />
Baby-changing tables can be found in<br />
selected toilets. The crew will help prepare<br />
baby food. Cots are available on some flights.<br />
Inflight service<br />
A hot meal is normally served during longhaul<br />
flights. Special-diet or vegetarian meals<br />
are available when pre-ordered. There is a<br />
courtesy inflight bar service for wine, beer,<br />
spirits and soft drinks.<br />
Entertainment<br />
Seat-back entertainment featuring a range of<br />
movies and music is available on our long- and<br />
medium-haul flights. Please refer to the IFE<br />
guide in Msafiri.<br />
Take-off<br />
The aircraft climbs steeply immediately after<br />
take-off. Shortly afterwards you will hear<br />
a reduction in the engine sound, while the<br />
aircraft continues to climb. All aircraft cabins<br />
are pressurised. Due to a change in pressure<br />
during take-off and landing, some passengers<br />
may experience slight discomfort in their ears.<br />
Relieve this by swallowing, yawning or pinching<br />
the nostrils gently, while keeping lips sealed.<br />
Landing<br />
After touchdown you may hear an increase in<br />
engine noise due to the reverse thrust applied<br />
to assist braking. Remain seated until the<br />
engines are off and the doors are open.