Jeweller - November Issue 2017
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VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />
NOVEMBER <strong>2017</strong><br />
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INNOVATION KEEPS WHITE<br />
METALS SHINING BRIGHT<br />
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />
FESTIVE-FRIENDLY STRATEGIES<br />
FOR A SUCCESSFUL CHRISTMAS<br />
NOVEMBER <strong>2017</strong><br />
THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE<br />
UGLY OF COST CUTTING<br />
CONTENTS<br />
NOVEMBER <strong>2017</strong><br />
16/<br />
21/<br />
25/<br />
FEATURES REGULARS BUSINESS<br />
16/ WHITE DELIGHT<br />
White metals continue to gleam with<br />
alloy innovation and new design.<br />
21/ WITH THIS RING<br />
Insight on the trends dominating<br />
the engagement ring market.<br />
25/ ’TIS THE SEASON<br />
Retail strategies to stay ahead this<br />
festive season.<br />
9/ Editorial<br />
10/ Upfront<br />
11/ News<br />
14/ New Products<br />
41/ Gems<br />
Colour investigation: Labradorite<br />
42/ 10 Years Ago<br />
43/ Events<br />
44/ My Bench<br />
46/ Soapbox<br />
Let’s champion rising stars,<br />
Brigitte Collins states.<br />
35/ Business feature<br />
Elizabeth Boyd explains how to<br />
uphold multi-channel demands.<br />
37/ Selling<br />
Build sales with ‘clienteling’,<br />
David Brown reports.<br />
38/ Management<br />
Barbara Crowhurst offers<br />
performance review tips.<br />
39/ Marketing<br />
Beware of cutting costs,<br />
Ian Altman warns.<br />
40/ Logged On<br />
Alfred Lua lists more social<br />
media mistakes to avoid.<br />
Whitewash<br />
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<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 5
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EDITORIAL<br />
THE JAA NEEDS A BREXIT<br />
It’s time for the Australian jewellery industry to<br />
bring about its own Brexit. With the upcoming<br />
AGM scheduled for <strong>November</strong> 15, I believe<br />
current <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Association of Australia (JAA)<br />
president Selwyn Brandt must leave (exit) the<br />
board. I can’t remember a greater period of<br />
upheaval than the past 18 months.<br />
The doomed decision to launch a trade show<br />
competing directly with the International<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair not only split the industry<br />
but also resulted in great change at the<br />
association – JAA executive director Amanda<br />
Hunter quit on the same day the association<br />
cancelled its event and three of six JAA board<br />
members have since resigned.<br />
Before she went, Hunter divulged that the<br />
JAA was facing a “large loss” that would “eat<br />
into retained earnings”. No doubt a large fall<br />
in membership and the expenses lost in the<br />
trade show venture – including legal fees –<br />
have contributed to the JAA’s financial state.<br />
Questions are now being asked about its<br />
solvency. Discussion at the Sydney fair<br />
focused on the failed trade-fair venture and<br />
the JAA’s current financial state and there<br />
appear to be three schools of thought<br />
emanating from the industry:<br />
1. The JAA should be kept alive and nurtured<br />
back to representing a unified industry<br />
2. The JAA should be left to wither away<br />
given its disastrous decisions<br />
3. The JAA brand is irreparably damaged<br />
and a new association should be created<br />
in its place.<br />
The time has come to remedy this situation.<br />
Almost six months have passed since Hunter<br />
resigned and there is still no news of when<br />
or if she will be replaced. If JAA membership<br />
numbers continue to fall and given the board<br />
can no longer rely on the lucrative, 25-year<br />
sponsorship deal it held with Expertise Events,<br />
then its future doesn’t look bright.<br />
I am hoping the JAA can be kept alive and<br />
nurtured back to health; however, many<br />
believe that only an entirely new board –<br />
one with fresh ideas and one not tainted<br />
by the disastrous decisions of the past –<br />
stands any chance of achieving this.<br />
Industry harmony won’t be possible until<br />
Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s rejoins the JAA and<br />
this won’t happen until an apology is made<br />
to former board member and current<br />
Nationwide managing director Colin<br />
Pocklington. How can the JAA claim to be<br />
the peak industry body if it is at war with<br />
the largest retail membership group!<br />
Only a completely new board can hope to<br />
achieve a resolution with Nationwide and<br />
other high-profile retailers and suppliers who<br />
have already quit the association. Only a new<br />
board can deliver full transparency about<br />
the losses incurred on the failed trade show<br />
venture, which presumably include large<br />
and unbudgeted expenses such as nonrefundable<br />
venue deposits.<br />
At the root of the JAA’s financial issues<br />
is the fall-out with Expertise Events over<br />
I AM HOPING<br />
THE JAA CAN<br />
BE KEPT ALIVE<br />
AND NURTURED<br />
BACK TO HEALTH;<br />
HOWEVER,<br />
MANY BELIEVE<br />
THAT ONLY AN<br />
ENTIRELY NEW<br />
BOARD STANDS<br />
ANY CHANCE OF<br />
ACHIEVING THIS<br />
sponsorship income – the JAA chose to walk<br />
away from a minimum royalty of $100,000<br />
per year to start its own show. Again, any<br />
costs incurred in the resulting legal actions<br />
between the JAA and Expertise Events must<br />
be detailed to members also.<br />
The JAA’s next financial report should address<br />
not only the losses incurred up to June 30<br />
this year but also an estimate of unbudgeted<br />
expenses (losses) that will be incurred in the<br />
current financial year. Such a report should<br />
also include any payout to its former executive<br />
director. The JAA will need to release its 16/17<br />
financial report in time for the AGM and one<br />
hopes that it doesn’t raise more questions<br />
than it answers. The JAA cannot afford for<br />
membership to decline further because of<br />
a lack of transparency and accountability;<br />
current and former members deserve to know<br />
the cost of the ill-fated trade show venture.<br />
The industry must see substantive change<br />
at board level if the JAA is to have a future.<br />
Therefore, it’s my opinion that all board<br />
members, including those new board<br />
members who recently filled vacated<br />
positions and who played no part in the<br />
division and turmoil of the past 18 months,<br />
should step aside in the best interests of<br />
the Australian jewellery industry.<br />
If they don’t, it could have far greater<br />
ramifications than they imagine.<br />
Coleby Nicholson<br />
Managing Editor<br />
<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 9
UPFRONT<br />
“Big, bold and<br />
colourful statement<br />
pieces that are<br />
imaginative and<br />
wearable works of<br />
art, mainly seen<br />
in the jewellery<br />
houses of Europe.”<br />
What trend excites you the most right now?<br />
BEN TRACY, FINELINES<br />
JEWELLERS<br />
“Midi rings – I’ve<br />
been rocking this<br />
style for years and<br />
have created a<br />
collection for ladies<br />
to have their own.”<br />
CASSANDRA MAMONE,<br />
CASSANDRA MAMONE<br />
FINE JEWELLERY<br />
“Soft pastel coloured<br />
gemstones and<br />
using non-traditional<br />
materials paired with<br />
precious metals.”<br />
GUY ABRAHAMSSON,<br />
JEWELLERS<br />
WORKSHOP GALLERY<br />
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN<br />
JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />
jewellermagazine.com<br />
Managing Editor<br />
Coleby Nicholson<br />
Editor<br />
Emily Mobbs<br />
emily.mobbs@jewellermagazine.com<br />
Journalist<br />
Talia Paz<br />
talia.paz@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Advertising Manager<br />
Gary Collins<br />
gary.collins@jewellermagazine.com<br />
Digital Manager<br />
Angela Han<br />
angela.han@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
BULLETIN BOARD<br />
n DOUBLE UP<br />
Citrine and topaz are the official<br />
birthstones of <strong>November</strong>. According<br />
to the International Colored Gemstone<br />
Association, both gemstones are<br />
popular choices due to their warm,<br />
earthy tones; citrine’s warm neutral<br />
shades look great with rose gold, while<br />
topaz has boundless colour options –<br />
perfect for the budding individual.<br />
n THE ENABLER<br />
Nagging staff to complete a task? Give<br />
them a figurative step-by-step map and<br />
show them how, when and why to get it<br />
done. In 1965, Yale psychologist Howard<br />
Leventhal looked into the ‘remarkable’<br />
power of step-by-step plans. “Opt for<br />
enabling over fear,” is said to be key.<br />
n COLOUR ME HAPPY<br />
For the first time, colour authority<br />
Pantone has unveiled 12 colours<br />
expected to influence jewellery and<br />
fashion trends in the upcoming season.<br />
This is two more than the traditional 10<br />
and is a decision made in response to<br />
the consumer’s need for self-expression.<br />
The fun and playful palette includes<br />
colours such as Little Boy Blue, Ultra<br />
Violet and Lime Punch.<br />
DIGITAL<br />
BRAINWAVE<br />
SPEARHEADING DIAMONDS<br />
Relax, Millennials won’t be the death of diamonds.<br />
That’s according to the Diamond Producers<br />
Association (DPA), which has released a global<br />
marketing campaign aimed at those under the age<br />
of 40 who have essentially never been exposed to big diamond marketing strategies.<br />
One of its goals is to show that diamonds can be an everyday staple, using Instagram<br />
to post ‘in the wild’ shots of diamonds, including hands adorned with diamond rings<br />
clutching passports or diamond rings gracing tattooed hands. Retailers can follow<br />
DPA on Instagram for inspiration or ‘regram’ posts to get in on the action.<br />
TOP PRODUCT<br />
Stones & Silver makes a layered statement with a<br />
collection of necklaces designed to be mixed and<br />
matched. The offering ranges from 35 cm chokers to<br />
100 cm chains, as well as 45–70 cm necklets, lariats<br />
and fobs. This was the most popular product last<br />
month ranked by views at jewellermagazine.com.<br />
Production Manager<br />
& Graphic Design<br />
Jo De Bono<br />
art@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Accounts<br />
accounts@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Subscriptions<br />
info@jewellermagazine.com<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong> is published by:<br />
Gunnamatta Media Pty Ltd<br />
Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne,<br />
VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA<br />
ABN 64 930 790 434<br />
Phone: +61 3 9696 7200<br />
Fax: +61 3 9696 8313<br />
info@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Copyright: All material appearing<br />
in <strong>Jeweller</strong> is subject to copyright.<br />
Reproduction in whole or in part is<br />
strictly forbidden without prior written<br />
consent of the publisher.<br />
Gunnamatta Media Pty Ltd strives to<br />
report accurately and fairly and it is<br />
our policy to correct significant errors<br />
of fact and misleading statements in<br />
the next available issue. All statements<br />
made, although based on information<br />
believed to be reliable and accurate at<br />
the time, cannot be guaranteed and<br />
no fault or liability can be accepted<br />
for error or omission. Any comment<br />
relating to subjective opinions should<br />
be addressed to the editor.<br />
Advertising: The publisher reserves<br />
the right to omit or alter any<br />
advertisement to comply with<br />
Australian law and the advertiser<br />
agrees to indemnify the publisher for<br />
all damages or liabilities arising from<br />
the published material.<br />
10 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
NEWS<br />
Breakthrough in Melbourne robberies<br />
The Melbourne jewellery industry has again<br />
been thrust into the spotlight with news that<br />
three men have been arrested and charged in<br />
relation to the receiving and selling of stolen<br />
jewellery believed to be linked to a string of<br />
armed robberies in the past year.<br />
Diamond and gold dealer Alejandro<br />
Mendieta Blanco, along with Julio Mendieta<br />
Blanco and Chey Tenenboim, were charged<br />
with handling stolen goods, recklessly<br />
possessing stolen goods and knowingly<br />
possessing stolen goods.<br />
The charges follow warrants executed by<br />
Victoria Police’s Gangs Crime Squad, which<br />
launched an investigation into the selling and<br />
receiving of stolen jewellery after the series<br />
of brazen armed robberies that have taken<br />
place across Melbourne.<br />
Comments by Victoria Police acting<br />
commander Peter De Santo highlighted that<br />
the latest arrests signified not only the police’s<br />
commitment to curbing the crimes but also<br />
the large number of parties involved.<br />
“It’s not only about identifying and targeting<br />
offenders involved in violent incidents at<br />
jewellery stores, it’s also about investigating<br />
what happens after those offences occur,”<br />
De Santo was quoted as stating in multiple<br />
media reports.<br />
All three men appeared at court in October;<br />
they were granted bail and were scheduled<br />
to re-appear at court in January 2018.<br />
According to Fairfax Media, Mendieta Blanco<br />
is also the subject of a major investigation<br />
by the Australian Taxation Office (ATO) for<br />
his alleged participation in the goods and<br />
services tax (GST) fraud scheme involving the<br />
gold bullion and precious metals industries.<br />
Crime syndicate targets jewellery<br />
In other crime-related news, NSW police<br />
have arrested and charged six men in relation<br />
to an alleged international crime syndicate<br />
involving Sydney jewellery ‘dealers’ and the<br />
International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair (IJF).<br />
According to a NSW Police Force statement,<br />
the arrests came after detectives from NSW<br />
State Crime Command’s Property Crime<br />
Squad established a division called Strike<br />
Force Brilliant.<br />
The aim of the division was to investigate<br />
a number of thefts and break and enter<br />
offences, mainly targeting jewellery<br />
‘dealers’ and members of the public making<br />
withdrawals at financial institutions across<br />
Sydney in August and September this year.<br />
It is believed that one incident took place<br />
during the IJF in August and involved the<br />
attempted theft of Thomas Sabo jewellery<br />
valued at $10,000.<br />
All six men appeared at court in October and<br />
were refused bail. They were scheduled to<br />
appear again at court on <strong>November</strong> 13.<br />
The NSW police statement added that<br />
investigations were ongoing.<br />
Alex and Ani exit<br />
Karin Adcock has confirmed that her<br />
business, House of Brands (HOB),<br />
will cease the local distribution of US<br />
jewellery range Alex and Ani.<br />
In an email sent to Australian and<br />
New Zealand stockists, Adcock<br />
advised retailers carrying the brand<br />
that it would be serviced by HOB until<br />
January 15, 2018.<br />
The Alex and Ani ‘concept’ store located<br />
at Westfield Fountain Gate shopping<br />
centre in Melbourne, as well as the eight<br />
‘studios’ – or kiosks – across NSW, Victoria,<br />
Western Australia and South Australia<br />
have consequently closed.<br />
“As you are all aware, the current retail<br />
environment is very challenging and<br />
many businesses have certainly felt<br />
the effects. As a result, we have had to<br />
restructure the House of Brands business<br />
and have shut down the Alex and Ani<br />
retail stores,” the email read.<br />
Adcock added that the US company<br />
was currently assessing how it would<br />
manage the Australian and New Zealand<br />
market in the future.<br />
<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 11
NEWS<br />
IN BRIEF<br />
*<br />
DIAMOND SWAP<br />
A 5-carat diamond valued at approximately<br />
$300,000 was stolen from a Cerrone<br />
store in Sydney’s CBD after it was<br />
reportedly switched for a ‘fake’ stone.<br />
The robbery involved a man who allegedly<br />
swapped the loose diamond for a stone<br />
of lesser value before leaving on foot<br />
with the diamond.<br />
*<br />
BODY LANGUAGE<br />
John Russo, the former international<br />
sales director and global trainer of<br />
Hearts on Fire, has been announced as<br />
Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s’ keynote speaker<br />
for its 2018 annual conference. Russo will<br />
discuss how jewellery retailers can improve<br />
sales through body language<br />
and psychology with his presentation<br />
‘Secrets of Body Language’.<br />
*<br />
RECORD SALE<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y retailer Graff Diamonds has<br />
acquired the world’s largest rough<br />
diamond for US$53 million (AU$67.4 m).<br />
The 1,109-carat Lesedi La Rona is described<br />
as the largest gem-quality rough diamond<br />
in existence. The stone failed to sell at a<br />
Sotheby’s auction last year.<br />
*<br />
GARAGE BROOCH SELLS<br />
A diamond, emerald and ruby brooch<br />
that was purchased at a garage sale in the<br />
US for $US8 (AU$10) sold for US$26,000<br />
(AU$33,110) at a Bonhams New York<br />
Fine <strong>Jeweller</strong>y auction. The brooch,<br />
which originated circa 1900, was bought<br />
at the garage sale by an anonymous<br />
woman as a ‘gift’.<br />
*<br />
SYNTHETIC DEVICE<br />
De Beers Group’s International Institute<br />
of Diamond Grading and Research<br />
(IIDGR) recently introduced Synthdetect<br />
for retailers. The ‘industry first’ synthetic<br />
detection device uses the IIDGR’s<br />
patented luminescence technology to<br />
simultaneously screen diamonds in a<br />
range of jewellery pieces without the use<br />
of a probe. It is said to employ the ‘unique’<br />
approach of detecting natural stones rather<br />
than synthetics.<br />
+ MORE BREAKING NEWS<br />
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />
Retailer closes high-profile store<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y retail chain Thomas <strong>Jeweller</strong>s has<br />
announced the closure of its store located<br />
at the Royal Arcade building in Melbourne’s<br />
Bourke Street Mall.<br />
According to a company statement, the<br />
decision to cease operations at the retailer’s<br />
only metropolitan location, which has been<br />
trading for 30 years, is part of a business<br />
overhaul and renewed focus on regional<br />
stores. “With regional Australia the core of<br />
their brand DNA, the move to refocus on their<br />
country stores coincides with an upcoming<br />
rebrand rollout, including fresh store designs,”<br />
the statement read.<br />
Thomas <strong>Jeweller</strong>s reportedly holds a 30 per<br />
cent stake in the Royal Arcade building and<br />
the statement confirmed that a new tenant<br />
for the “prime position” retail space would be<br />
unveiled in 2018.<br />
The news came hot on the heels of an<br />
announcement that Pandora had secured a<br />
lease deal for a six-level building in the Bourke<br />
Street Mall. Annual rent is believed<br />
to be about $1 million.<br />
Les Georgettes commits to market<br />
A recent visit by its vice president and the<br />
establishment of a wholly-owned subsidiary<br />
indicates that French jewellery company<br />
Les Georgettes is committed to making<br />
an impact in the Australian and New<br />
Zealand markets.<br />
Les Georgettes is part of the Renaissance<br />
Luxury Group and its vice president Frederic<br />
Brunel-Acquaviva visited Sydney in early<br />
October with the aim of strengthening<br />
business operations. It follows the<br />
establishment of a company-owned<br />
Australian subsidiary business, Renaissance<br />
Luxury Australia, in June.<br />
Brunel-Acquaviva explained there were<br />
several reasons for his visit, including the<br />
review of the subsidiary’s operations as<br />
well as the sales and marketing strategy. He<br />
acknowledged the local market was “suffering<br />
a bit” by the economic situation and retail<br />
challenges but added he was confident there<br />
was a gap in the market for Les Georgettes,<br />
which specialises in jewellery consisting of<br />
interchangeable colourful band insets.<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>s fundraise for sales rep<br />
House of Harvey jewellery store owners<br />
Alannah and Bob Harvey have raised<br />
$3,775 for the Australian Cancer Research<br />
Foundation (ACRF) after completing the<br />
Sydney Running Festival in tribute of a sales<br />
representative who passed away earlier<br />
this year. The two Queensland jewellers’<br />
fundraising efforts were in honour of<br />
Mike Griese, a sales rep for Ikecho Pearls,<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Centre, Imajpack and AM Imports<br />
who lost his battle with cancer in March.<br />
Alannah stated that the Sydney Running<br />
Festival was an ideal way to generate industry<br />
support for the retailer’s charity efforts and<br />
increase customer relationships, as it was a<br />
high-profile event with many spectators and<br />
national media coverage.<br />
She added the store’s ACRF fundraising<br />
initiatives would continue through to<br />
Christmas, noting several suppliers including<br />
the <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Centre and Adina Watches had<br />
supported the business’ efforts.<br />
12 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
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• Advertising Support includes availability of TVC in 15 and 30sec formats, and access to print<br />
media materials for local printing and catalogues.<br />
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NEW PRODUCTS<br />
HERE, JEWELLER HAS COMPILED A SNAPSHOT OF THE LATEST PRODUCTS TO HIT THE MARKET.<br />
PINK KIMBERLEY<br />
The Kimberley Vivala ring is an art deco style<br />
piece featuring five natural Argyle pink diamonds<br />
surrounded by white diamonds. Crafted in 18-carat<br />
rose and white gold, the piece is distributed by<br />
Sams Group Australia. Visit: pinkkimberley.com.au<br />
TW STEEL<br />
Seven styles have been added to the TW Steel Maverick<br />
collection. This watch, one of the latest additions,<br />
comprises a chocolate brown leather strap with navy<br />
sunray dial and rose gold accents. TW Steel is distributed<br />
by Duraflex Group Australia. Visit: dgau.com.au<br />
LOVE IN<br />
A JEWEL<br />
Love in a Jewel’s<br />
collection of<br />
pendants has a<br />
special compartment<br />
that can hold a tiny<br />
note from a loved one. The<br />
pendant is permanently sealed with<br />
the memento. Pictured is the Circle of<br />
Love pendant. Visit: loveinajewel.com<br />
COUTURE<br />
KINGDOM<br />
Celebrate Snow White’s 80th anniversary with this<br />
14-carat gold-plated charm bracelet. The piece is<br />
from the Disney Princess collection.<br />
Visit: couturekingdom.com<br />
IKECHO<br />
PEARLS<br />
Ikecho introduces its sterling<br />
silver and freshwater pearl<br />
hook earrings. The white round<br />
pearls measure 7-8 mm in size.<br />
Visit: ikecho.com.au<br />
CLUSE<br />
The Idylle open circle marble hexagon<br />
bracelet is from the new Cluse jewellery<br />
range, distributed by Heart & Grace.<br />
The bracelets have been designed to<br />
complement Cluse watches, using the<br />
brand’s ‘signature’ metals and raw marble<br />
accents. Visit: heartandgrace.com.au<br />
SWISS ALPINE<br />
MILITARY<br />
This Swiss Alpine Military<br />
by Grovana men’s watch<br />
has a stainless steel<br />
case, 100 m water<br />
resistance and a<br />
sapphire crystal glass.<br />
The Swiss watch<br />
brand is distributed by<br />
Stella Timepieces. Visit:<br />
stellatimepieces.com<br />
14 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
NEW PRODUCTS<br />
LOST RIVER<br />
DIAMONDS<br />
The supplier introduces a range of champagne<br />
diamond jewellery set in white and rose gold as<br />
well as coordinating stacking bands. Pictured is the<br />
Marquise Halo design with two matching bands.<br />
Visit: lostriverdiamonds.com<br />
LES GEORGETTES<br />
These rings with interchangeable coloured bands are inspired by the French<br />
brand’s best-selling bracelet designs. The offering is available in a range of styles,<br />
sizes and finishes. Visit: www.lesgeorgettes.com/au<br />
+ MORE NEW PRODUCTS<br />
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />
PASTICHE<br />
Inspired by the fierce and<br />
untamed wilderness, the<br />
Wild Collection echoes<br />
the patterns found in<br />
nature. The Into the Forest<br />
cuff and Whimsy River<br />
ring are made from IPplated<br />
stainless steel.<br />
Visit: pastiche.com.au<br />
LOVE<br />
LOCKETS<br />
Love Lockets presents its<br />
wristlet filled with charms.<br />
The bracelet is rose gold-plated<br />
stainless steel, with charms<br />
being from the Love and Family<br />
and Swarovski collections. Visit: lovelockets.com.au<br />
FABULEUX<br />
VOUS<br />
The Love Goes Round sterling<br />
silver earrings embrace the<br />
trend to mix and match, with<br />
the consumer encouraged to<br />
wear one design in one ear<br />
and a different design in the<br />
other ear. Earrings are also<br />
available as a uniform pair.<br />
Visit: fabuleuxvous.com<br />
BUCKLEY LONDON<br />
BERING<br />
Bering expands its blue mesh<br />
collection with this women’s<br />
watch that features a<br />
blue mother of pearl dial,<br />
blue ceramic bezel and<br />
narrow blue mesh strap.<br />
The brand is distributed by<br />
BYMR. Visit: beringtime.com<br />
The Bayswater collection incorporates soft swirls of rose<br />
gold-plated and rhodium-plated bands that come together<br />
with subtle white crystal details. JLM International distributes<br />
Buckley London. Visit: jlminternational.com.au<br />
<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 15
WHITE METALS<br />
White<br />
metal urges<br />
GLEAMING WHITE METALS<br />
CONTINUE TO SHINE. EMILY<br />
MOBBS DISCOVERS THE<br />
TRUTH ABOUT DIFFERENT<br />
ALLOY PROPERTIES AND NEW<br />
TECHNICAL INNOVATIONS.<br />
hite metals need little introduction – these cool,<br />
luminous alloys have been hot property in the<br />
bridal and fashion categories for years.<br />
Yes, trends typically go out of style eventually but a<br />
host of technical innovations and fresh designs are keeping this<br />
bunch forging full steam ahead.<br />
“We are noticing that all white metals are still on trend within our<br />
extensive wedding ring range,” Twin Plaza Metals managing director<br />
Victor Donovic says.<br />
“The upper end of the market is where consumers seem to be<br />
spending,” Donovic continues. “Leading the way are 18-carat<br />
white gold and platinum but also on offer are 9-carat white<br />
gold, palladium 500 and platinum 600, which enable great value<br />
for money.”<br />
Pallion CEO Andrew Cochineas is another supplier experiencing<br />
strong demand for white metals this year.<br />
“It is our highest selling colour above yellow and rose gold,”<br />
Cochineas says, adding that a notable point is the fact that the<br />
percentage of platinum sales has increased.<br />
QUDO<br />
“Although platinum has traditionally been more expensive than<br />
gold, in the current economic market, platinum is trading lower<br />
than fine gold,” he explains.<br />
16 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
At the time of writing, Cochineas states that, “ABC Bullion is currently trading<br />
platinum at $1,197.30 per ounce whereas gold is $1,636.67 per ounce – the<br />
price drop has definitely contributed to the rise in platinum sales.”<br />
Pallion is developing more platinum alloys as a result of this rise in popularity<br />
and demand.<br />
“We have done extensive research and introduced a new alloy, ‘platinum<br />
ruthenium’, driven by our clients,” Cochineas says, adding, “Platinum has<br />
traditionally been difficult to cast but with advances in technology, and specifically<br />
investment material, we are producing a superior product and are able to cast<br />
products that were not previously possible.”<br />
Platinum has long been known as one of the ‘difficult’ members of the white<br />
metals family. It is used in an almost pure form, about 95 per cent, and has<br />
a much higher melting temperature than its white gold cousin, making it<br />
a challenging material to work with.<br />
Phillip Schmidt runs Platinumsmith, a Melbourne-based business specialising<br />
in platinum jewellery – the metal represents about 80 per cent of sales.<br />
He suggests that more jewellers have mastered the metal, regardless of its<br />
difficult reputation.<br />
“I notice most retailers with hand-making skills are doing well with platinum,”<br />
Schmidt says. “I think every competent/experienced goldsmith is up to speed<br />
with most aspects of platinum, and has been for the past five years at least.”<br />
INDUSTRY CONFUSION<br />
Platinum, of course, is only one chapter in the white metals narrative.<br />
According to Peter W Beck founder Peter Beck, white gold is the most popular<br />
metal across his wedding ring and precious metals departments.<br />
Beck says that confusion in the market currently exists when comparing white<br />
gold, platinum and palladium.<br />
“White gold has some advantages over platinum as it is easy to repair and to<br />
refurbish,” Beck explains. “One negative to white gold, that many consumers<br />
are unaware of, is that it does require rhodium plating to maintain its white<br />
appearance, which will dull from wear.<br />
“Platinum is very good for fine filigree type work and stone setting due to its<br />
very good wear resistance. Platinum does not require rhodium plating so in turn<br />
does not need to be refurbished as often; however, platinum is somewhat more<br />
expensive due to manufacturing costs and the cost of the raw material.”<br />
Like Cochineas, Beck<br />
highlights his business’<br />
endeavours to keep up with<br />
the latest technologies and<br />
alloy developments.<br />
“We are currently<br />
PETER W BECK<br />
researching a white gold<br />
alloy that does not require<br />
plating,” he says. “The challenge is to create a very white alloy that can still be<br />
easily melted and fabricated and withstand daily wear.”<br />
Beck confirms that the alloy will launch once the supplier is satisfied with its<br />
durability and ability to be fabricated.<br />
Further, he states that there is confusion amongst manufacturing jewellers about<br />
which white alloy is best suited to their requirements.<br />
“Peter W Beck acknowledges this need and has produced multiple white alloys<br />
to accommodate demand, including setting alloys, general fabrication, palladiumrich<br />
alloys and nickel-free alloys for the growing number of consumers with<br />
nickel allergies.”<br />
Donovic adds that overcoming confusion regarding white metal properties<br />
involves a constant education process for retail staff and consumers.<br />
“It is really important to understand the difference,” he says. ”Our best performing<br />
customers are the ones that are prepared to have real live stock and variety of<br />
white metals in their windows to be able to explain to consumers the difference.<br />
The bigger the selection of live stock the more chance you have of making the<br />
sale and up-selling your product.”<br />
It is understandable that there are misconceptions given the large number of<br />
metals and alloys available.<br />
Cochineas is another who notes the confusion in the market when comparing<br />
white gold, platinum and palladium: “We have found that customers don’t<br />
understand the difference between platinum and white gold and there is also<br />
confusion between the properties of 18-carat and 9-carat white gold – customers<br />
tend to think that 9-carat gold is harder than 18-carat gold; however, the exact<br />
opposite is true.”<br />
SILVER TRUTHS<br />
According to Indiri owner and designer Josh Smith, misunderstandings also exist<br />
in the world of sterling silver.<br />
DYRBERG/KERN INDIRI CUDWORTH ENTERPRISES PALLION<br />
<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 17
WHITE METALS<br />
FERVOR MONTREAL<br />
“There seems to be a lot of confusion about the difference between 925 and<br />
sterling silver, when in fact there is no difference,” Smith says.<br />
“I always try to give a simple answer that sterling is any silver that is 92.5 per cent<br />
pure silver or higher. I explain that sterling silver is way too soft to work with when<br />
it is pure, so it is most frequently mixed with copper to give it strength; this is<br />
a story I find myself saying over and over, particularly at trade fairs. I’m amazed<br />
there is still a lot of confusion about what constitutes sterling silver and how it<br />
relates to ‘925’.”<br />
In a well-covered corner of the market, one way Smith is distinguishing his<br />
product is with a unique alloy.<br />
“We use our own proprietary alloy of sterling that gives our items the right mix of<br />
strength, flexibility and tarnish resistance,” Smith explains.<br />
“One of the biggest issues with sterling silver is tarnish. Being able to add tarnish<br />
resistance helps a lot as it greatly reduces time spent polishing silver jewellery on<br />
store shelves.”<br />
Darren Roberts is director of men’s jewellery supplier Cudworth Enterprises.<br />
He too believes there is confusion regarding the properties of sterling silver,<br />
particularly amongst males.<br />
When discussing new technological innovations and design methods employed<br />
by Cudworth, Roberts points to gun metal and pearl rhodium plating.<br />
“Gun metal is a dark grey colour and pearl is similar to brushed with a slight satin<br />
finish,” he explains, adding that the plating gives the pieces a more modern and<br />
masculine look while also preventing tarnishing or oxidising.<br />
Jodie Tilia, director of Fervor Montreal local distributor JLM International, explains<br />
that a recent addition to the Solitaire collection is a brushed finish designed to<br />
highlight the sparkle of the Swarovski crystals used in the sterling silver pieces.<br />
When asked about recent technological advancements, Tilia discusses the Crossfor<br />
technology incorporated in the Canadian range’s Dancing Gems collection.<br />
Using the technology, the crystals are set in a way in which they imitate the<br />
movement of a swing.<br />
Understanding the properties of sterling silver and being able to communicate<br />
these to consumers is also important given the influx of plated base metal<br />
jewellery, according to Smith.<br />
“With so much plated base metal jewellery in the market, it raises the perceived<br />
value of solid sterling items,” he explains, adding, “For those of us producing highquality,<br />
solid sterling silver jewellery,<br />
there is no point in competing on<br />
TWIN PLAZA METALS<br />
price; however, it is important to<br />
educate stores and sales staff so<br />
they can explain the differences<br />
between solid and plated jewellery.”<br />
#101<br />
WHITE GOLD is an alloy of yellow gold and at least one other white<br />
metal, such as palladium or silver. The colour of white gold can<br />
vary, depending on the alloy formula used, and pieces are normally<br />
plated with rhodium to enhance the white colour. Rhodium does<br />
wear, meaning white gold should be re-plated about every 12-18<br />
months, depending on the frequency of wear. It is available in a<br />
variety of carats.<br />
PLATINUM is used in jewellery in an almost pure form, about 95 per<br />
cent. This rich purity makes the metal hypoallergenic, and its natural<br />
white colour will not tarnish or lose its lustre. Platinum is long-wearing<br />
and one of the strongest metals to manufacture.<br />
PALLADIUM is part of the platinum group of metals but has a slightly<br />
different shade of white than platinum and is less dense. It is resistant<br />
to corrosion, won’t tarnish and doesn’t require rhodium plating.<br />
PLATINUMSMITH<br />
INDIRI<br />
STERLING SILVER is a highly malleable metal, which lends itself to a<br />
wide range of design options. It is also less expensive than other white<br />
metals such as gold, platinum and palladium. It is, however, inclined to<br />
tarnish and is much softer than other metals, meaning it is not ideal for<br />
everyday use.<br />
STAINLESS STEEL is resistant to corrosion and offers affordability and<br />
low maintenance. The metal is quite rigid and inflexible and has long<br />
been popular in the men’s market; however, a host of technological<br />
advancements that allow for the incorporation of feminine elements<br />
like gemstones and intricate designs has meant that the demand for<br />
the metal among women is definitely increasing.<br />
18 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
GERMANY<br />
Timesupply<br />
watches + jewellery<br />
p +61 (0)8 8221 5580<br />
sales@timesupply.com.au<br />
timesupply.com.au<br />
exclusive distributor AU & NZ
WHITE METALS<br />
PETER W BECK<br />
STEEL APPEAL<br />
Stainless steel is also no stranger in the white metals family, having<br />
established its own foothold in jewellery retail stores several years ago.<br />
Like sterling silver, Roberts believes that confusion exists regarding the<br />
properties of stainless steel.<br />
What are the major misconceptions surrounding the metal?<br />
“That stainless steel is more of an industrial metal for construction<br />
rather than jewellery,” Roberts responds.<br />
He adds that 316L is the only grade that should be used for jewellery,<br />
explaining that 304 is a thinner grade that is cheaper and inferior in<br />
quality compared to 316L.<br />
Tilia, who also distributes Dyrberg/Kern jewellery, says stainless steel<br />
has many selling points that retailers should be promoting during<br />
sales conversations.<br />
“Stainless steel is a very hard, strong and durable metal alloy with<br />
a content of iron and chrome,” she states, adding, “Stainless steel<br />
undergoes a number of processes, which make it practically scratch<br />
free and resistible to corrosion and oxidation.”<br />
Part of this process is a ‘top coat’, or ion plating, that prevents oxidation.<br />
“Ion plating is one of the most advanced surface finishing processes<br />
on the market – it is carried out in a vacuum environment and makes<br />
the top plating more durable and resistant,” she says.<br />
“The greatest advantage of the ion plating process is that the surface<br />
created is both harder and chemically more stable than that produced<br />
through traditional wet plating methods.”<br />
While such factors are arguably selling points for stainless steel, Ken<br />
Abbott, managing director of Qudo local distributor Timesupply,<br />
believes its properties aren’t the only reasons consumers are drawn<br />
to the metal.<br />
“Stainless steel is a widely accepted metal for fashion jewellery but<br />
it is of course the strength of the design element that will make it a<br />
desirable purchase,” Abbott explains, adding, “The way the design looks<br />
and appeals is more important to the consumer than the fact it is<br />
made from stainless steel.”<br />
Indeed, selecting a white metal is not a question of determining which<br />
one is better than the other but rather which one suits a consumer’s<br />
individual needs.<br />
Each metal in this family brings different attributes and benefits and<br />
it will be one white-hot summer once retailers master this. i
ENGAGEMENT SPOTLIGHT<br />
Marriage<br />
material<br />
IN CELEBRATION OF<br />
‘ENGAGEMENT SEASON’,<br />
EMILY MOBBS SEEKS ADVICE ON<br />
THE LATEST MARKET TRENDS<br />
AND OPPORTUNITIES IN THE<br />
ENGAGEMENT RING SECTOR.<br />
ccording to marketing gurus, ‘engagement season’ is here!<br />
Engagement season, a term coined in the US (naturally), refers to the period<br />
spanning Thanksgiving in <strong>November</strong> through to Valentine’s Day in February<br />
where there’s a spike in the number of marriage proposals.<br />
True, Australians do not celebrate Thanksgiving and cynics might deem engagement<br />
season a cheap marketing ploy but what’s the harm in embracing a phenomenon<br />
that helps to boost engagement ring sales?<br />
Reports suggest that the festive and New Year period is still a peak time worldwide<br />
for people to get down on one knee – it is a sentimental occasion with a focus on<br />
family after all. From a practical perspective, it also allows for sufficient time to plan a<br />
wedding in either autumn or spring, which are traditionally popular wedding seasons.<br />
In celebration of this exceptionally romantic period, <strong>Jeweller</strong> is shining a light on the<br />
engagement ring sector. The following pages combine the opinions of those working<br />
in the sphere with the aim of providing insight on the trends and influences currently<br />
dominating the market.<br />
INTRODUCING THE ENGAGEMENT RING PANEL<br />
CHRIS WORTH<br />
DARSHAN MEHTA<br />
JUSTIN LINNEY<br />
ROBIN SOBEL<br />
Head of marketing and sales<br />
Worth & Douglas<br />
Director<br />
DSM Pacific<br />
Creative director<br />
Linneys<br />
Managing director<br />
Protea Diamonds<br />
<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 21
ENGAGEMENT SPOTLIGHT<br />
Bling<br />
What is your best-selling engagement ring and why?<br />
WORTH & DOUGLAS<br />
LINNEYS<br />
Chris Worth: We still do very well with the halos and the<br />
classic solitaire. White gold and platinum remain the most<br />
commonly asked for metals in these styles.<br />
We find if it’s not a classic design that consumers are after,<br />
then it’s more their own bespoke design.<br />
Darshan Mehta: Our Galaxy Collection consisting of<br />
single halo and double halo diamond engagement rings<br />
is our most successful and best-selling range.<br />
The offering consists of nine shapes – round, cushion,<br />
princess, emerald, pear, oval, trilliant, marquise and heart –<br />
available with a 50 point, 70 point or 1-carat GIA-certified<br />
centre diamond, along with a valuation certificate.<br />
Right now, round, pearl and oval shapes are the most<br />
in demand. Halo engagement rings have always been<br />
popular and they will continue to be so because it gives<br />
room to create a tailor-made solution as per the buyer’s<br />
budget and choice.<br />
Justin Linney: Our best-selling engagement ring is our<br />
signature solitaire round brilliant cut design. This classic<br />
style enhances the beauty of the round diamond for a<br />
simple yet elegant and timeless look. It is a design that<br />
we have refined over the years to ensure the proportions<br />
are perfect. White gold is by far the most popular metal.<br />
Robin Sobel: We have three best-selling rings. The first<br />
is the illusion baguette ring with a halo design and<br />
diamonds running down the band.<br />
The second and third feature a double halo ring design<br />
with a split band of diamonds – one has a princess cut<br />
diamond and the other has a round brilliant cut diamond.<br />
The most popular metal is 18-carat white gold.<br />
The reason they are best sellers? Well, the emerald ring<br />
is illusion set so it looks like a 1.50-carat stone but in fact<br />
has a total weight of 0.50 carats. The other two rings are<br />
also made to look larger because they have a double<br />
halo of diamonds surrounding the centre stone.<br />
Mounting pressures<br />
What are the main issues currently impacting the engagement ring sector?<br />
Chris Worth: I believe the top three issues that are impacting the industry right<br />
now are online loose diamond sales, synthetic diamonds and shoppers wanting<br />
more bespoke designs.<br />
Robin Sobel: The internet – consumers are doing their homework but there is<br />
so much information out in the market that they are getting very confused.<br />
Consumers also believe everything they see on the internet, and that there are<br />
plenty of bargains out there. I try to explain that if it’s too cheap there must be<br />
something wrong with the stone.<br />
We also try to explain that not every certificate is the same, and that stones vary<br />
by up to two colours and two purities, depending on what certificate they get –<br />
even GIA certificates are not as accurate as they were five years ago.<br />
Darshan Mehta: Blind online buying of diamonds is the biggest issue that is<br />
impacting the engagement ring sector – big time. There are increasingly more<br />
cases of mismatch in quality of what is ordered and what is received when<br />
diamonds are bought online. Buyers must see what they are buying, and this<br />
awareness should be propagated.<br />
Justin Linney: Firstly, people are purchasing engagement rings online without<br />
being properly educated. At Linneys we encourage our clients to come into<br />
the showroom to view our range of engagement rings and loose diamonds.<br />
Our online showroom provides a convenient platform for customers to<br />
purchase lower priced items, but for significant pieces, and engagement rings<br />
in particular, we encourage our customers to view the collection instore for the<br />
full buying experience so we can provide a higher level of service.<br />
Secondly, customers are being misinformed through information made<br />
available to them online. A lot of people browse the internet for information<br />
on diamonds and engagement rings and often this information is not coming<br />
from a reliable source. It’s good that customers are researching before buying<br />
but sometimes this means they have already made their mind up about the<br />
most suitable cut, colour, clarity and carat weight for them before they have<br />
even looked at a diamond in real life.<br />
Managing customer expectations regarding the size of the diamond is another<br />
issue. As previously mentioned, unfortunately customers often have unrealistic<br />
expectations on what they want as an engagement ring. I think this is largely<br />
because they are being flooded with images and videos online, particularly<br />
on social media, of extremely high value engagement rings. This is impacting<br />
the engagement ring sector as people are comparing<br />
themselves to what they constantly see online<br />
and the budget for the ring often doesn’t<br />
permit the use of a large diamond<br />
similar to what’s seen and expected.<br />
Regardless of the design, there<br />
is just no way you can make a<br />
1.00-carat diamond ring look like a<br />
5.00-carat diamond ring!<br />
PROTEA DIAMONDS<br />
22 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
The cost of love<br />
Do your sales suggest that the end-consumer<br />
is spending more/less/the same on<br />
engagement rings this year?<br />
Robin Sobel: Clients are definitely spending more on engagement<br />
rings; however, they are much better informed on quality and<br />
pricing so margins are being squeezed. This is why we do a lot<br />
of illusion set jewellery; we also hand select diamonds all with<br />
GIA certificates.<br />
Chris Worth: Spending more.<br />
Darshan Mehta: Yes, I suggest consumer<br />
spending on engagement rings has<br />
increased compared to the previous year.<br />
Justin Linney: We have noticed people<br />
spending more on engagement rings<br />
this year. Most people are spending 20 per<br />
cent more on rings while others are close to<br />
30 per cent. We believe that there are many things<br />
that have influenced this change, one influence<br />
being social media. The engagement market is<br />
highly influenced by social media and consumers are<br />
constantly exposed to larger diamond rings.<br />
DSM PACIFIC<br />
tellers<br />
What engagement ring designs<br />
do you predict will be popular<br />
over the next year?<br />
Award Winning<br />
UK Fashion <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />
www.buckleylondon.com<br />
DSM PACIFIC<br />
Chris Worth: Halos, solitaires, rose gold, morganite<br />
and aquamarine.<br />
Robin Sobel: We custom make a lot of jewellery<br />
so we are finding fancy shapes are very popular<br />
and rings with halos and diamonds down the<br />
band. Rose gold is also getting very popular with<br />
the eternity bands.<br />
Darshan Mehta: Oval and pear shaped halo rings.<br />
Justin Linney: I think the trend towards fancy<br />
shapes will continue but round brilliant cuts<br />
will always dominate engagement ring designs.<br />
Ovals and pears will remain strong as people<br />
start to consider styles that don’t feature a halo of<br />
diamonds around the central stone and we might<br />
see a push towards three stone rings and more<br />
classic designs.<br />
Exclusive Distributor<br />
Australia, New Zealand & Fiji<br />
info@jlminternational.com.au<br />
AU: +61 9247 8249
WORTH & DOUGLAS<br />
Point of<br />
difference<br />
What is unique about your<br />
engagement ring offering?<br />
Chris Worth: Our rings are made in New Zealand,<br />
we offer solid quality shanks, CAD and alterations,<br />
matching wedding bands and quick delivery, to name<br />
a few.<br />
Robin Sobel: The services we provide. We resize rings<br />
on order and offer a five-year guarantee provided<br />
a jeweller does not tamper with the product. We<br />
also replace any lost small stones provided it is the<br />
manufacturer’s fault.<br />
Darshan Mehta: The Galaxy Collection is inspired<br />
by the dazzling stars of the galaxy and offers a wide<br />
variety of diamond shapes, which allows retailers to<br />
personalise the range as per their potential customer’s<br />
choice. Our range is a fully-finished product, meaning<br />
retailers save a lot of time. The consistent pricing and<br />
supply is the game winner. It’s a ‘ready-to-go’ solution<br />
for retailers. They can choose to carry all shapes or a<br />
smaller selection.<br />
Justin Linney: At Linneys, we have our designers,<br />
workshop, showroom and administration all on site at<br />
our Subiaco headquarters in Perth, Western Australia.<br />
When it comes to engagement rings, this is ideal<br />
because it allows us to sit down with customers and<br />
discuss their ideas to create a unique and personalised<br />
piece of jewellery with a fast turn-around time for<br />
urgent jobs. We can also monitor the quality to a high<br />
degree as all of our team is on site. i<br />
PROTEA DIAMONDS
CHRISTMAS TIPS<br />
Dreaming of a<br />
prosperous<br />
Christmas<br />
THE COUNTDOWN TO CHRISTMAS<br />
HAS BEGUN. AS TALIA PAZ REPORTS,<br />
THERE ARE PLENTY OF FESTIVE-<br />
FRIENDLY RETAIL STRATEGIES THAT<br />
CAN BE IMPLEMENTED TO ENSURE<br />
THIS YEAR IS ONE OF THE MOST<br />
SUCCESSFUL, AND MERRY, YET.<br />
he lead up to December 25 is a busy period filled with sales<br />
opportunities; however, additional foot traffic and a mighty<br />
turnover in stock can also equal stress galore.<br />
Preparing early is key so with that in mind, here are four focus<br />
areas to help ensure stores are in a strong position this festive season.<br />
The countdown to Christmas is officially under way.<br />
THE DREAM TEAM<br />
Consider this – teamwork makes the dream work. A successful store is<br />
only as strong as its staff, and how jewellery storeowners manage their<br />
business this festive season will ultimately make or break sales.<br />
According to financial services and mobile payment company Square,<br />
there is no underestimating the value of reviewing last year’s sales from<br />
the weeks heading into Christmas to identify what days are likely to be<br />
busy before rostering staff accordingly.<br />
The company’s website advises business owners to ensure team members<br />
submit their Christmas availability well in advance and have a shortlist of<br />
backup employees on hand should unforseen emergencies crop up.<br />
Promoting discussion amongst team members about how to combat<br />
workplace stress during the pre-Christmas rush is another worthy<br />
action step.<br />
A report by non-profit organisation Helpguideorg International – which<br />
publishes reports on mental health topics – emphasises the importance<br />
<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 25
CHRISTMAS TIPS<br />
of communicating with employees one-on-one.<br />
Advice to business owners about tackling staff workplace stress states: “Talk to<br />
them about the specific factors that make their jobs stressful [and] give workers<br />
opportunities to participate in decisions that affect their jobs. Show that individual<br />
workers are valued and appreciated and that job stress is taken seriously.”<br />
Further, a report by Frontline Recruitment Group outlines that retailers need to<br />
schedule regular staff meetings that clearly state what the demands of each<br />
employee are and what guidelines are to be followed during the busy period.<br />
Preventing product loss is also an area retailers will need to discuss with staff<br />
sooner rather than later. As well as having an effective inventory management<br />
system and up-to-date security measures, Wes Wernette, a business-to-business<br />
marketing consultant, recommends ensuring staff are trained in loss-prevention<br />
techniques so everyone knows how to identify theft – and what to do if it occurs.<br />
Harvey Norman loss prevention manager Michael Neary offers similar advice in a<br />
training manual for Retail Excellence Ireland.<br />
“Have strict policies on refunding, staff purchases, stock movement, cash handling<br />
and all areas where theft can occur,” Neary advises, adding that establishing a<br />
duress code word so staff can summon assistance from other staff members can<br />
also be of help.<br />
FILL UP THE STOCK(INGS)<br />
Successful jewellers will know that smart stock management in the lead-up to<br />
Christmas is crucial. Retail Edge Consultants co-founder and business mentor<br />
David Brown suggests retailers begin by reviewing what worked and didn’t work<br />
for the festive period last year. What were the best-performing categories? Were<br />
there any customer requests that were not satisfied? After key issues have been<br />
addressed, it’s time to stock up.<br />
“Above all else – re-order fast sellers,” Brown says. “The secret to more sales is<br />
having more of the right product. The right product is the one that your customers<br />
are telling you they like – and it’s their wallets that are doing the talking.”<br />
Brown adds that not only should jewellers be immediately re-ordering items that<br />
are quickly selling but they should keep re-ordering these until customers stop<br />
buying them. “Make sure everybody knows how critical these key pieces are and<br />
give them the VIP treatment. Don’t leave them in the economy queue when they<br />
deserve business class check-in!”<br />
Francesca Nicasio, a <strong>Jeweller</strong> contributor and retail and content strategist for retail<br />
management software business Vend, advises not to forget to stock up on holiday<br />
merchandise and associated provisions well in advance – think receipt paper, gift<br />
boxes, pens, tags and cleaning supplies.<br />
Nicasio points to return policies too: “Be clear about how you’ll process returns.<br />
Will you issue cash refunds or store credit? Will you allow shoppers to return<br />
items without a receipt? These are just some of the matters<br />
you’ll need to address. There is no one-size-fits-all policy<br />
for returns and exchanges, so craft your rules<br />
based on what makes the most sense for your<br />
business. Whatever you decide, though,<br />
communicate it clearly<br />
with your staff.”<br />
US jewellery<br />
industry<br />
magazine Instore<br />
suggests a novel idea – implementing a “distinctive” return policy, such as offering<br />
customers 110 per cent back on items – as long as the customer accepts a store<br />
credit rather than a cash or credit refund. Keep it strictly limited to items purchased<br />
over the festive period, it adds.<br />
DIGITAL INNOVATION<br />
Secret Santa buyers, last minute shoppers, early-bird consumers and generous<br />
high-value gift-givers; retailers should be targeting all of these customers both<br />
offline and online.<br />
It might seem obvious but retailers would do well to remember to update<br />
websites and social media accounts with any special Christmas trading hours.<br />
A good suggestion is for retailers to not only give their websites a festive makeover<br />
by incorporating Christmas motifs, such as stars and wrapped gits onto the<br />
homepage and business logo, but also take it a step further by adding a Christmas<br />
Day countdown to the site – it can generate excitement and send a subtle<br />
reminder to customers that time is running out.<br />
A similar theme can carry through to social media channels.<br />
There is no shortage of Christmas social media campaign ideas online; however,<br />
why not start by conducting a ‘12 days of Christmas’ promotion? Businesses can<br />
schedule a themed post for each of the 12 days leading up to Christmas Day – it<br />
might be an announcement that the store is providing a free gift-wrapping service<br />
on December 18 and a complimentary ring clean on December 20.<br />
Mary Stribley writes on graphic-design tool website Canva that utilising snapshots<br />
from customers is another easy and engaging promotion. Stribley provides<br />
Starbucks as an example of a business that gets “heavily into the holiday season”<br />
by posting Christmas-themed – and Starbucks-themed – images, both crowdsourced<br />
and from its own content, on platforms like Instagram.<br />
Marketing magazine’s blog has this advice for jewellers wishing to spread their<br />
social media efforts across more than one platform: “Different methods work<br />
better on different platforms. Instagram favours a hashtag-heavy approach –<br />
#ChristmasDeals #XmasOffers #SpecialHolidays – which also works on Twitter<br />
but doesn’t have the same impact on Facebook. Tailor your content to suit each<br />
platform and spread goodwill widely.”<br />
Remember that special offers, sales and promotions need to be shared across all<br />
marketing channels including in-store, social media and websites.<br />
Don’t forget the store’s existing customers – email marketing is ideal for them.<br />
Rebecca Hesilrige, content marketing manager for email and SMS marketing<br />
provider Pure360, suggests that retailers make sure that even online offers can be<br />
redeemed in-store to maximise redemption, and that the Christmas marketing<br />
message is consistent wherever the consumer chooses to interact with the brand.<br />
According to Michelle Anh Hoang, marketing executive for digital online<br />
marketing business Beeketing, retailers also shouldn’t undervalue sending<br />
personal e-greetings to loyal and valuable customers.<br />
“During the holiday season, all people are in a joyful mood that they send<br />
greetings to everyone they know and [as such] receiving season greetings don’t<br />
seem like annoyances,” Anh Hoang states.<br />
“The key is to be thankful for their continued patronage to your store. Within the<br />
message, you can include the following – an introduction of your upcoming<br />
holiday sale and a ‘save the date’ button, and an inclusion of their latest purchases<br />
or past holiday purchases with corresponding product recommendations.”<br />
26 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
CHRISTMAS TIPS<br />
CHRISTMAS<br />
Ensure all staff know exactly what promotions and<br />
offers have been made via social media and email so<br />
there are no mixed messages in store.<br />
Retail Edge Consultants recommends ordering lunch for the<br />
whole team on the busiest days – it will definitely boost morale.<br />
Don’t underestimate the value of gift-wrapping.<br />
According to a 2016 joint study by Koji, the ACRS research<br />
unit and POPAI, consumers whose Christmas purchases<br />
were gift-wrapped by retailers had an “excellent experience<br />
and reason” for shopping.<br />
Lobe layering, statement earrings and mixed metals are just some<br />
of the hottest fashion trends heating up this spring-summer. Head<br />
to jewellermagazine.com to see what other styles will be influencing<br />
consumer purchase decisions this Christmas.<br />
Add some ‘Greenery’ to the store! Colour authority Pantone<br />
has named Greenery as its <strong>2017</strong> colour of the year. The shade<br />
can be used in many colour combinations, and let’s not forget<br />
that it ties in with Christmas decorations perfectly.<br />
VISUALISE, MATERIALISE<br />
According to a 2016 joint study by Koji, the Australian Consumer, Retail and<br />
Services (ACRS) research unit and POPAI, 73 per cent of consumers are doing their<br />
Christmas shopping exclusively in bricks-and-mortar environments. This means<br />
retailers really do need to ensure they are attracting shoppers with the right sights,<br />
sounds and smells this festive season.<br />
Vital information that should be on full display to customers include opening<br />
hours – a blog post for visual display supplier UK POS recommends listing<br />
hours from December 23 up until January 3 – and, if appropriate, final dates<br />
for online orders.<br />
Visual merchandiser Sarah Quinn tells Australian retail news website Retailbiz that<br />
retailers should revise company values and their target market before devising<br />
visual merchandising displays ahead of Christmas.<br />
“Each week, schedule 15 minutes to experience your shop like your customers,”<br />
Quinn explains. “Sit out the front of your shop and see what customers see. Enter<br />
your shop and walk through it as a customer. You could also photograph your<br />
store – the windows, displays, counter, aisles, fixtures, tables, walls – and make<br />
note of what needs fixing. The small things can make a difference.”<br />
Christmas is a time of excitement, nostalgia, family and most importantly, an<br />
opportunity to stop and reflect; therefore, it is imperative retailers are forging<br />
emotional connections with all who step foot in store.<br />
According to ‘ambient scenting’ specialist Prolitec, Christmas carols are a mainstay<br />
in retail because they invoke nostalgia. Yes, carols may get annoying but the<br />
business suggests that the more nostalgia retailers can create the greater the<br />
sales opportunities.<br />
“Studies show that when people feel nostalgic, they’re more generous, less<br />
concerned with keeping control of their money and willing to pay more for<br />
products,” the article reads.<br />
However, it states that retailers should not rely on music alone and should instead<br />
combine the sounds of Christmas with the smells of Christmas.<br />
“Often, patrons don’t even consciously perceive scents. Yet, smell can evoke<br />
nostalgic feelings even more powerfully than other ambient elements,” it explains.<br />
Nick Terket, a marketing executive and contributor to business website<br />
Business2Community, also notes how retailers can leverage the smells that are<br />
often associated with the season – fruit mince pies, anyone? – to their advantage.<br />
“The sense of smell is so basic that we’re often not even aware of how scents<br />
affect our memories and emotions,” Terket writes. “With that in mind, include<br />
planning a scent marketing component along with sight and sound<br />
in your Christmas marketing plan. You’ll be providing<br />
something shoppers can’t get online: an<br />
enjoyable, memorable experience<br />
that touches the senses.”<br />
Remember too that beautifully<br />
packaged goods enhance the in-store<br />
experience and business reputation. A<br />
Shopify blog offers some tips to up the<br />
gift-wrapping ante.<br />
“Think about sweet and unexpected<br />
bonuses like a small seashell, a small<br />
tag with a special or inspirational quote<br />
printed on it, or even a little jingle bell that<br />
customers can tie onto their pets’ collars,” the blog<br />
states. “The possibilities are endless, and the fact<br />
that you’re giving shoppers a ‘bonus’ and going<br />
above and beyond the normal wrapping humdrum<br />
speaks volumes about how much you value<br />
their business.”<br />
Christmas is fast approaching, meaning it’s now time for<br />
retailers to get down to business, review those creative ideas,<br />
finalise procedures and let the countdown<br />
to the jolly day begin. i<br />
<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 27
INDIAN JEWELLERY FAIR<br />
Australia on show at<br />
Indian jewellery fair<br />
WHILE THE INDIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY<br />
SHOW IN MUMBAI IS ONE OF THE INDUSTRY’S<br />
LARGEST, FEW PEOPLE REALISE THE IMPORTANCE<br />
OF AUSTRALIA TO THE INDIAN DIAMOND<br />
MARKET. COLEBY NICHOLSON REPORTS.<br />
he prestigious India International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Show (IIJS) is always a large<br />
and busy event and this year’s 34th edition was no different. Organised<br />
by the Gem and <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) and running<br />
in late July, the trade fair’s exhibitor numbers peaked at more than 2,200<br />
and visitor numbers increased to more than 35,000 compared to the previous<br />
year’s 33,500.<br />
Visitors came from not only India but also from the Middle East, South East Asia,<br />
the Far East and Australia.<br />
Perhaps more than ever before, this year’s show demonstrated the connection<br />
between the Indian and Australian diamond markets. On entering the major<br />
exhibition halls one could not help but notice the large and prominent advertising<br />
for Rio Tinto Australian diamonds.<br />
In addition to having a prominent marketing message at the event, Rio Tinto’s vice<br />
president of sales and marketing, Alan Chirgwin, took an active role in the official<br />
inauguration of the show.<br />
Noting that this year’s IIJS was the 34th edition, Chirgwin said, “This is a significant<br />
number for Rio Tinto because it’s also 34 years since we began mining for alluvial<br />
diamonds from our Argyle diamond mine.<br />
“Thirty four years ago, very few people would have predicted that diamonds<br />
from creek beds and streams in a remote part of Western Australia would lead<br />
to a strategic partnership with India, creating new markets for fashion jewellery<br />
in the world’s largest retail diamond jewellery market.”<br />
Chirgwin went on to explain that as the Argyle mine virtually doubled world<br />
diamond production overnight, the Indian diamond industry worked hand<br />
in glove with Rio Tinto to truly understand the supply chain in order to create<br />
demand for Argyle diamonds.<br />
FUTURE GOALS<br />
GJEPC chairman Praveenshankar Pandya also outlined the council’s vision to<br />
boost gross export revenue of Indian gemstones and jewellery from its current<br />
<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 29
INDIAN JEWELLERY FAIR<br />
US$43 billion (AU$55 b) to US$60 billion (AU$76.7 b) by 2022.<br />
“I am overwhelmed with the ever increasing response for IIJS and this kind of<br />
participation has taken this show and the Indian gems and jewellery industry<br />
to a different level altogether,” Pandya said.<br />
“We are working towards the introduction of jewellery parks on the lines of IT<br />
parks across India in the prominent gems and jewellery areas. We are looking for<br />
a bigger venue to host the next IIJS to accommodate more jewellery enthusiasts<br />
who wish to participate in IIJS.”<br />
Saunak Parikh, convener of GJEPC’s national exhibitions sub-committee, said this<br />
year’s IIJF was the “largest ever”.<br />
“There were good sales reported from all segments, and while exhibitors in<br />
the gold jewellery segment did extremely well, those in the diamond jewellery<br />
segment were also extremely satisfied,” Parikh said, adding, “It is a reflection of<br />
the current situation in India – the market is doing reasonably well.”<br />
MAJOR INITIATIVES ANNOUNCED<br />
The IIJS was also used as a platform for several other initiatives such as the<br />
International Diamond Monitoring Committee.<br />
Organised by GJEPC and the Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB), the new committee<br />
aims to increase consumer confidence in diamond jewellery and will reportedly<br />
focus on making affordable detection machines available at every level of the<br />
supply chain, as well as implementing standardised language on how to refer<br />
to synthetics.<br />
World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) president Ernie Blom explained<br />
that he was one of several industry representatives who participated in committee<br />
discussions during the trade show.<br />
“All the major diamond industry bodies, including the WFDB and the Diamond<br />
Producers Association, took part in exhaustive discussions on the subject,” Blom<br />
said at the time.<br />
“We stress that we do not have any objection to trading in synthetic stones, only<br />
that they are fully disclosed so that consumer confidence in our product is not<br />
damaged in any way,” he added.<br />
CHARITY DINNER<br />
GJEPC, in association with De Beers Group, hosted the second edition of the<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>s for Hope gala charity dinner on the first evening of the IIJS.<br />
The event aims to contribute to the education and empowerment of young girls<br />
and was said to be attended by celebrities as well as prominent members of the<br />
gemstone and jewellery industry.<br />
“The gem and jewellery industry has been involved in large-scale philanthropic<br />
and charitable activities particularly in the field of education and health long<br />
before CSR (corporate social responsibility) became mandatory,” Pandya said,<br />
adding, “I am overwhelmed by the contribution by the industry donors and<br />
convey gratitude to De Beers, whose support made this event successful.”<br />
GJEPC also organised a special event one day prior to the show. Appropriately<br />
titled ‘Prelude to IIJS <strong>2017</strong>’, the inaugural B2B affair was described as a fashion<br />
showcase of jewellery collections specifically created for the 34th edition of<br />
the IIJS.<br />
The <strong>2017</strong> IIJS took place in Mumbai from July 27 to July 31. i<br />
Coleby Nicholson attended the IIJS courtesy of the fair organiser.<br />
30 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK FAIR<br />
HONG KONG<br />
setting the watch scene<br />
THE HONG KONG WATCH AND CLOCK FAIR PRESENTED<br />
MINIMALIST STYLING AND AN IMPROVED GLOBAL OUTLOOK.<br />
MARTIN FOSTER REVIEWS INDUSTRY TRENDS FROM THE EVENT.<br />
he Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair (HKW&CF) is the biggest showcase<br />
of timepieces with more brands than any of the major watch and clock<br />
trade fairs – yes, larger than Baselworld and the Geneva Salon – and it<br />
comprehensively sets the pace for the global market in the lower to midrange<br />
timepiece categories.<br />
Opening on September 5, <strong>2017</strong> at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition<br />
Centre, the 36th HKW&CF attracted almost 21,000 buyers – up 4 per cent from<br />
the previous year – and included more than 820 exhibitors.<br />
The five-day fair offered bling, dazzle and glitz aplenty, combined with variety<br />
and a full range of timepieces spanning various price-points.<br />
One highlight was the gathering of around 150 prestigious watch brands and<br />
designer collections for the Salon de TE exhibition space.<br />
Salon de TE featured five themed zones – World Brand Piazza, Chic & Trendy, Craft<br />
Treasure, Renaissance Moment and Wearable Tech – and a huge assortment of<br />
pricing, quality and fashion offerings could be found in these aptly named salons.<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>’s 2016 HKW&CF report alluded to a feeling of nervousness deriving from<br />
declining watch exports published by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry<br />
FH; however, it can now be reported that relief is in the air, as these market waves<br />
appear to have bottomed out.<br />
Instabilities remain but with positive direction. Luxury group Richemont, for<br />
example, reported that sales for the five months ended August 31, <strong>2017</strong> increased<br />
12 per cent at constant exchange rates and 10 per cent at actual exchange rates.<br />
“The strong performance in Asia Pacific was supported by double digit increases<br />
in most markets, including China and Hong Kong,” a company statement read.<br />
<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 31
HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK FAIR<br />
Swatch Group in its half-year report showed a sales rise of 2.9 per cent at constant<br />
exchange rates in the watches and jewellery segment, excluding production.<br />
“Positive outlook for the second half of <strong>2017</strong> with many new product launches,”<br />
Swatch’s financial statement read. “Good development in production, which<br />
will mainly profit from the growth of the own brands, not only in value but also<br />
in volumes.”<br />
These reports are important not just for the luxury segment because, although<br />
the market has fractured into distinct price-point segments over the past 30 years,<br />
the whole industry can be affected by market circumstances – a rising tide will lift<br />
all the boats but the reverse was very much the case just one year ago.<br />
SHOWSTOPPERS<br />
A wide range of attention-getters assailed visitors at the <strong>2017</strong> fair; however, two<br />
were head and shoulders above the rest.<br />
Stylistically this year there has been a seismic shift to minimalism, a theme that<br />
was evident in almost every watchmaker’s product releases.<br />
Readers may be aware of the fine German watchmaker Nomos Glashütte, which<br />
has a trademark of special brand elegance based on minimalism. The aesthetic<br />
spells truly elegant sophistication and it seems the rest of the world has now<br />
caught on.<br />
The other outstanding news from the exclusive coterie of World Brand Piazza<br />
exhibitors was from Jacob & Co. This exclusive Swiss watchmaker exhibited<br />
the diamond-set Billionaire watch that sells for an eye-watering US$20.4 million<br />
(AU$25.7 m). Never mind the beautiful skeletonised tourbillon movement, the<br />
Billionaire features 239 emerald-cut diamonds, including one single 3-carat<br />
stone, with the total weight amounting to 260 carats – very deep velvet pockets<br />
needed here.<br />
Apple Watch is now only one example of the expansive and clever spectrum<br />
of shrewd add-on providers defining the latest class of WTs.<br />
WTs currently range from children’s toys through to a trackable children’s watch<br />
and on to full health reporting and communication functions. Whilst most rely on<br />
the smartphone for connectivity, the most recent iterations are even independent<br />
of this platform.<br />
The Wearable Tech space at Salon de TE presented a vast selection of branded<br />
smartwatches with the latest technologies and functionalities.<br />
Cupid Memory from Hong Kong brings its namesake collection, featuring a<br />
patented strap that is installed with near-field communication (NFC) technology<br />
as well as a QR code. Users can tap the watch with an NFC-enabled mobile phone<br />
or scan the QR code with the phone to read messages previously stored in its<br />
mobile application.<br />
A combination of advances in artistic subtlety, quality of manufacture and<br />
technological prowess was certainly noted at the <strong>2017</strong> Hong Kong fair, providing<br />
an interesting outlook for the year ahead.<br />
Next year’s HKW&CF will take place from September 4 to September 8. i<br />
Martin Foster FBHI attended the event courtesy of the organiser, Hong Kong Trade<br />
Development Council (HKTDC).<br />
Each year, Chinese watch production also shows an increasing understanding of<br />
how to be up there in the company of the best European luxury makers. What is<br />
evident year by year is a huge advance of the quality and finish that is now part<br />
of the established pattern of their high-end manufacture.<br />
NEW WEARABLES<br />
Wearable Tech (WT) is the new name embracing smartwatches, which have<br />
evolved into something much broader than a timepiece with add-ons. Indeed<br />
for most WTs today, showing the time is a very minor part of the functionality.<br />
32 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
INTERNA TIONAL<br />
JEWELLERY FAIR<br />
WHY EXHIBIT?<br />
97%<br />
of attendees had authority to purchase<br />
88%<br />
will purchase from exhibitors after the Fair<br />
80%<br />
of visitors placed orders at the Fair<br />
60%<br />
of visitors discovered products they<br />
were not aware of<br />
60%<br />
of attendees visit to find new suppliers<br />
AUGUST – 25 > 27, 2018<br />
INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE SYDNEY<br />
INTERESTED IN EXHIBITING?<br />
CONTACT MARY-ANNE BROWN<br />
T: 02 9452 7513<br />
E: MARYANNE.BROWN@EXPERTISEEVENTS.COM.AU<br />
Organised by
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Studying with the GAA has also<br />
allowed me to meet like-minded<br />
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Diploma in<br />
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BUSINESS<br />
TRADITIONAL RETAIL AND THE SAVVY CONSUMER<br />
The need to continually improve the<br />
customer experience raises challenges<br />
a-plenty for retailers, and ELIZABETH<br />
BOYD believes there has been a major<br />
shift in customer behaviour.<br />
There is no doubt that one of the fastest<br />
changing components of the industry is<br />
the customer piece – up until about five<br />
years ago, retailers couldn’t stop talking<br />
about customer service; four years ago,<br />
they shifted to customer experience; now,<br />
it’s all about ‘customer engagement’.<br />
This is an expected component of the<br />
interaction a customer has with a brand,<br />
regardless of how or where the interaction<br />
originated – retailers are seeing customers<br />
in bricks-and-mortar stores use their<br />
smartphones to check if they can get a<br />
better price on an item elsewhere.<br />
Retail businesses today need to have<br />
a multi-channel presence and greater<br />
customer expectations mean stores must<br />
now possess the ability to appeal to a<br />
customer’s want for instant gratification by<br />
delivering a great, meaningful experience<br />
that compels them to buy immediately.<br />
MULTI-CHANNEL RETAILING DEFINED<br />
In its most basic terms, multi-channel or<br />
omni-channel retailing means connected<br />
customers can shop for and purchase the<br />
same items across many different channels.<br />
Mobile devices allow them to shop online<br />
for virtually anything virtually everywhere:<br />
on the bus, on the street, in the parking lot,<br />
at the kitchen table, in bed and even while<br />
standing in the middle of the sales floor.<br />
NOTHING SELLS LIKE SUCCESS<br />
One critical piece of delivering results is<br />
making certain that sales staff have as<br />
much information about a store’s products<br />
as does the customer, if not more. The<br />
ability to answer questions, overcome<br />
objections, and communicate the benefits<br />
of products is key to capturing the<br />
attention and trust of the customer.<br />
According to a 2012 Motorola Retail Vision<br />
Survey study, retailers expected more than<br />
half of all customer transactions would<br />
be completed using self-checkout on<br />
mobile devices within five years. Further,<br />
IT IS ESTIMATED<br />
THAT CUSTOMERS<br />
WHO RESPOND TO<br />
‘BEING ENGAGED’<br />
SPEND 30 PER<br />
CENT MORE<br />
MONEY ON<br />
AVERAGE THAN<br />
THOSE WHO<br />
DO NOT<br />
it predicted that more than half of retailers<br />
planned to make use of psychographic<br />
metrics using social-network data.<br />
SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST<br />
According to Ruchika Kumar, founder of<br />
internet insight company Boutiika Labs,<br />
“The growth of online sales has threatened<br />
the traditional bricks-and-mortar business<br />
but it is possible to not just survive but<br />
succeed. The biggest challenge is adapting<br />
to being an omni-channel experience.<br />
Bricks-and-mortar retailers have been<br />
catapulted into a multi-channel shopping<br />
cycle due to changing customer behaviours<br />
and advanced technology.”<br />
It is estimated that customers who respond<br />
to ‘being engaged’ spend 30 per cent more<br />
money on average than those who do not.<br />
This means customer engagement is a<br />
big deal, especially if customer loyalty is<br />
important to the industry within which the<br />
business operates and if business expansion<br />
is a must – customer engagement<br />
innovates, develops intimacy and also<br />
generates growth.<br />
<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 35
BUSINESS<br />
A focus on customer engagement and<br />
commitment can significantly decrease<br />
in-store shopping-cart abandonment costs.<br />
When retailers shortcut or ignore training<br />
and development, they are making the<br />
decision to erode the customer experience<br />
in some way.<br />
“This is the in-store equivalent to the<br />
online phenomenon of shopping-cart<br />
abandonment,” Barbara Farfan wrote on<br />
TheBalance.com. “A study by Business Insider<br />
estimated that $US4 trillion of merchandise<br />
was left unpurchased by online shoppers in<br />
2014. While there’s no easy way to quantify<br />
the amount of sales that are lost when<br />
frustrated customers change their minds<br />
about making a purchase in physical stores,<br />
when 75 per cent of internet shoppers<br />
are willing to walk away from the items in<br />
their online cart, they’re predisposed to<br />
exhibiting shopping-cart abandonment<br />
behaviours in physical stores as well.”<br />
AMPING UP ENGAGEMENT<br />
According to Creating a seamless retail<br />
customer experience, a study by The<br />
Economist’s Intelligence Unit, more than<br />
half of consumers say their customer<br />
experience has improved over the past<br />
three years. This is great news because<br />
retailers still have ample opportunity to<br />
deliver great experiences that resonate<br />
with customers and reflect brand promises.<br />
Two-thirds of retailers still look at sales<br />
volumes to measure performance rather<br />
than longer-term indicators, such as length<br />
of customer engagement.<br />
To be ready to overcome the impact of<br />
multi-channel retailing, retailers need to<br />
understand and communicate the changes<br />
and expectations these alternative business<br />
platforms create for the customer’s<br />
perception of their businesses and work<br />
with staff members to support the instore<br />
experience.<br />
Bricks-and-mortar sales staff need to be<br />
fully aware that they are working within<br />
an environment that demands selling a<br />
high-level of product knowledge and a<br />
ruthless and passionate focus on customer<br />
engagement and appreciation.<br />
Customers make little distinction between<br />
the various platforms on offer today<br />
and judge companies on their overall<br />
performance. Customers look at the<br />
whole transaction – they want simplicity,<br />
speed and accuracy across all channels<br />
and they will walk away from companies<br />
that fail to satisfy their non-negotiables.<br />
Three-quarters of consumers say that they<br />
will stop doing business with a company<br />
following a bad experience.<br />
In retail, business owners have a terrible<br />
habit of establishing the criteria of hiring<br />
‘warm bodies’ at the supervisor and sales<br />
levels and then training them ‘on the job’<br />
in a sink-or-swim environment.<br />
Retailers aren’t making smart investments<br />
into workplace induction and training,<br />
especially where critical roles are<br />
concerned. Too often staff with the greatest<br />
amount of customer-facing time are<br />
required to ‘wing it’. These are the obstacles<br />
retailers are facing that need to change<br />
quickly if they are to protect and support<br />
their organisations.<br />
Business executives say the biggest<br />
obstacles to better customer service are<br />
organisational, rather than technical.<br />
They see silos within the business as the<br />
biggest hurdle. Executive and seniorlevel<br />
leadership is not keeping pace<br />
with the organisation’s presence on<br />
various platforms, which means critical<br />
communication can be neglected to<br />
support the customer’s expectations of<br />
brand experience.<br />
Retail leaders need to proactively seek out<br />
the parallels and how they can support the<br />
other platforms of the business that exist.<br />
They must also create strategies with teams<br />
to overcome the obstacles.<br />
OBSTACLES TO OPPORTUNITY<br />
According to a shopping report conducted<br />
by SapientNitro and Gfk Roper, 51 per cent<br />
of respondents admitted to showrooming.<br />
Though a majority of retailers see<br />
showrooming as an obstacle to business,<br />
it presents a unique opportunity to<br />
blend physical and digital marketing and<br />
compelling service to amplify sales.<br />
Showrooming and other emerging<br />
consumer trends have placed new<br />
operational and technological challenges<br />
on retail brands and the trends are here<br />
THE TRUE TEST<br />
OF ANY LEADER’S<br />
METTLE IS TO<br />
EXTRACT ALL<br />
OF THESE ‘GO-<br />
TO’ EXCUSES<br />
AND THEN<br />
USE THEM AS<br />
OPPORTUNITIES<br />
TO ELEVATE THE<br />
PERFORMANCE<br />
OF THEIR TEAMS<br />
to stay and will continue to evolve as more<br />
customers embrace the multi-channel<br />
existence of their favourite products<br />
and brands.<br />
Bricks-and-mortar retail can thrive by<br />
offering an unequalled level of customer<br />
experience and personalised engagement.<br />
This is an area that has built the reputation<br />
of many amazing retail brands, which are<br />
still around and flourishing today.<br />
Retailers can embrace the experience and<br />
engagement approach to boost retention<br />
and reduce customer churn – customer<br />
churn is the proportion of customers who<br />
leave the business during a given time,<br />
normally the course of a year.<br />
By truly shaping staff understanding<br />
of the business through continuous<br />
training, development and exceptional<br />
communication, customers will buy into<br />
the experience and leave stores feeling<br />
included, engaged and appreciated.<br />
To truly deliver on brand promises,<br />
storeowners and their employees should<br />
look to customer behaviour to develop<br />
strategies that elevate the level of service<br />
that consumers in their retail category have<br />
come to appreciate and advocate.<br />
Retail leadership today is all about turning<br />
obstacles into opportunities for staff. There<br />
is no doubt that the same businesses that<br />
have been using external issues such as<br />
the weather, current affairs and customer<br />
behaviours to excuse soft results will try<br />
to use the availability of the store’s online<br />
presence to further excuse performances.<br />
The true test of any leader’s mettle is to<br />
extract all of these ‘go-to’ excuses and then<br />
use them as opportunities to elevate the<br />
performance of their teams in customer<br />
experience, business metrics and overall<br />
retail excellence.<br />
This approach will deliver great results to<br />
the organisation consistently. i<br />
ELIZABETH BOYD is<br />
founder and editor in chief of<br />
Excellence in Retail. She has 18<br />
years’ retail experience. Learn<br />
more: cottoncandyfshn.com<br />
36 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
SELLING<br />
BUILD SALES WITH CLIENTELING<br />
IN A GLOBALLY COMPETITIVE MARKETPLACE, THE ABILITY TO AFFORDABLY GENERATE EXTRA SALES IS AN EVER-INCREASING<br />
CHALLENGE FOR MOST JEWELLERS. DAVID BROWN DISCUSSES THE IMPORTANCE OF ‘CLIENTELING’ AS A SALES STRATEGY.<br />
Some days, it seems the only factor that<br />
matters to customers is price. This isn’t true,<br />
of course, but it’s a perception that can<br />
lead salespeople to think the only way to<br />
obtain business is to ‘buy it’ by discounting<br />
product. As has been repeatedly shown,<br />
however, customers only value price when<br />
there is an absence of other important<br />
factors – that is, if a customer can’t<br />
differentiate between Store A and Store<br />
B then price usually becomes the predominant<br />
motive.<br />
For most shoppers, price is actually a less<br />
important motivation to purchase than<br />
trust, service, quality and value for money,<br />
especially where discretionary products like<br />
jewellery are concerned. This is because<br />
customers often don’t know a diamond<br />
from a piece of glass and are therefore<br />
dependent on a retailer’s reputation before<br />
making a decision to buy.<br />
Building a trust relationship doesn’t come<br />
easily; it can be difficult to build this type<br />
of rapport in the short term, which means<br />
jewellers invest significant time and energy<br />
in their customer relationships.<br />
Given the sizeable investment both the<br />
retailer and the customer have made in<br />
developing a relationship, jewellers are best<br />
off concentrating on winning business from<br />
existing customers instead of investing into<br />
new business. In a nutshell, this is the true<br />
essence of clienteling.<br />
CLIENTELING EXPLAINED<br />
Clienteling is the process of leveraging<br />
customer data to create long-term<br />
relationships that benefit customers by<br />
providing them with better service and<br />
superior purchasing opportunities. By<br />
using customer data, retailers can tailor<br />
personalised communication to customers<br />
to bring them into the store where they<br />
receive VIP service offerings.<br />
To present an example, Jim has been<br />
married for 15 years and still forgets his<br />
JEWELLERS<br />
ARE BEST OFF<br />
CONCENTRATING<br />
ON WINNING<br />
BUSINESS<br />
FROM EXISTING<br />
CUSTOMERS<br />
INSTEAD OF<br />
INVESTING INTO<br />
NEW BUSINESS<br />
CLIENTELING IS KEY IN TODAY’S MARKET<br />
wedding anniversary. He also never knows<br />
what to buy his wife on her birthday.<br />
Local store Dazzling Diamonds has been<br />
a favourite jewellery store for Jim’s wife for<br />
many years.<br />
Importantly for Jim, Dazzling Diamonds<br />
is also into clienteling – the jeweller has a<br />
first-class database system that contains<br />
records of all of Jim’s wife’s purchases and<br />
important dates.<br />
Dazzling Diamonds has Jim’s contact<br />
details, which staff use to contact him two<br />
weeks before any special event.<br />
Jim greatly appreciates this service because<br />
it’s more than just a calendar reminder;<br />
Dazzling Diamonds knows what Jim’s wife<br />
likes, what she’s bought and even what<br />
she’s browsed in store or better still, added<br />
to her ‘wish list’.<br />
Jim’s wife knows that the store contacts<br />
Jim so she even makes a point of calling in<br />
to the store a month ahead to alert items<br />
to the staff that she finds of interest.<br />
Naturally, all this information is recorded<br />
in the store’s database and then used by<br />
the business to suggest ideal gift ideas for<br />
Jim, who can now buy with the confidence<br />
that he’s choosing something his wife<br />
already likes.<br />
POSITIVE OUTCOME<br />
The end result is that Jim’s wife is delighted.<br />
Jim not only remembers the special<br />
occasion but also buys her something she<br />
truly loves instead of the helpful household<br />
items he used to give her, most of which<br />
she would promptly return.<br />
In addition, Jim is delighted as he succeeds<br />
in pleasing his wife and does so with a<br />
minimum amount of fuss, consulting with<br />
the people who know her preferences best.<br />
Jim has even built such a good relationship<br />
with the sales staff that he feels confident<br />
enough to provide a staff member with his<br />
budget. They can then select an item on his<br />
behalf and have it gift-wrapped and ready<br />
for him to collect. This saves Jim time<br />
and stress.<br />
What about Dazzling Diamonds? Since<br />
adopting its clienteling policy, the business<br />
has seen overall sales climb 15 per cent<br />
and existing-customer sales increase more<br />
than 40 per cent for its best 100 customers.<br />
Dazzling Diamonds has even had contact<br />
from friends of its best clienteling<br />
customers asking if they can be included<br />
on the reminder list.<br />
When was the last time a customer called<br />
a store to request addition to a database?<br />
This is just one example of how customer<br />
information can be used to fuel sales and<br />
enhance the store’s sense of community.<br />
The need to build a closer relationship with<br />
a store’s best customers has never been<br />
greater and retailers owe it to not only<br />
themselves but also their customers to use<br />
clienteling to increase service levels and<br />
also grow their businesses. i<br />
DAVID BROWN is<br />
co-founder and business<br />
mentor of Retail Edge<br />
Consultants. Learn more:<br />
retailedgeconsultants.com<br />
<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 37
MANAGEMENT<br />
PERFORMANCE REVIEW TIPS FOR MANAGERS<br />
STRIKING A BALANCE BETWEEN PRAISE AND CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM CAN MAKE PERFORMANCE REVIEWS MORE PRODUCTIVE<br />
AND SATISFYING FOR ALL PARTIES. BARBARA CROWHURST OUTLINES WAYS TO GET THE MOST OUT OF THE PROCESS.<br />
Performance reviews are a lot like walking<br />
a tightrope: withholding positive feedback<br />
can discourage and demoralise employees<br />
while failing to discuss problem areas can<br />
mean employees never improve.<br />
Staff appraisals must be recurring events.<br />
In addition to providing ongoing feedback<br />
during the year, managers also must let staff<br />
know what time of year reviews take place.<br />
To ensure reviews are useful, managers<br />
should follow these tips.<br />
ALLOW ENOUGH TIME TO PREPARE<br />
Performance reviews are only valuable if<br />
managers and employees are given the<br />
time and resources they need to prepare for<br />
them. Give staff the opportunity to identify<br />
their achievements from the past year and<br />
areas where they would like to improve.<br />
KEEP FILES ON EMPLOYEES<br />
When hiring a new staff member, create<br />
a file that contains performance review<br />
notes. This serves to document the good<br />
and bad aspects of that employee’s job<br />
performance and work habits. Use the file<br />
to catalogue accomplishments and also to<br />
track performance-related issues such as<br />
tardiness. The file will act as a record of items<br />
to be discussed at the next review.<br />
SOLICIT THIRD-PARTY FEEDBACK<br />
Managers shouldn’t rely solely on their own<br />
perceptions of an employee, particularly if<br />
interactions with the individual have been<br />
limited. Seek feedback and comments from<br />
colleagues and others who work closely dayto-day<br />
with the employee. Enquire about<br />
his or her strengths and weaknesses, as well<br />
as areas that have improved over time and<br />
special abilities. Ask specific questions such<br />
as how does he or she handle challenges<br />
and overcome obstacles and what<br />
contributions have they made to teambased<br />
projects? Does the staff member<br />
seem committed to continuing professional<br />
education and skills development? Compare<br />
the feedback.<br />
EMPLOYEES MAY<br />
NEED TIME TO DIGEST<br />
THE FEEDBACK<br />
FROM A REVIEW SO<br />
ENCOURAGE THEM<br />
TO COME BACK<br />
AFTERWARD IF THEY<br />
HAVE QUESTIONS<br />
OR CONCERNS<br />
STAFF APPRAISALS CAN BENEFIT ALL PARTIES<br />
ALLOW ENOUGH TIME FOR ASSESSMENT<br />
Don’t wait until the day before a review<br />
to start tracking and critiquing a staff<br />
member’s performance – this is unfair to<br />
the individual and will not give an accurate,<br />
comprehensive picture of his or her abilities<br />
and achievements. Instead, try to observe<br />
the employee in a variety of situations over<br />
an extended period. Assess how well he<br />
or she manages both independent and<br />
collaborative assignments.<br />
CREATE A CONDUCIVE SETTING<br />
Choose a quiet, private place for the<br />
review and schedule it at a time when<br />
interruptions can be kept at a minimum.<br />
When structuring the session, incorporate<br />
time for a two-way dialogue so that the<br />
employee can respond to feedback and<br />
offer input of his or her own. To prepare for<br />
the meeting, organise all documentation –<br />
previous evaluations, comments gleaned<br />
from colleagues and other notes. Give the<br />
employee sufficient notice to prepare also.<br />
SET THE APPROPRIATE TONE<br />
The review should be handled in a<br />
professional manner and treated as a<br />
conversation, not a lecture. Open the<br />
discussion by talking about the employee’s<br />
accomplishments and positive attributes.<br />
When it’s time to shift to negative or<br />
problematic areas, focus not on mistakes<br />
but on ways to improve performance.<br />
Most employees will not be surprised<br />
by anything they hear during a review;<br />
however, if there’s a gap between an<br />
employee’s perceived performance versus<br />
actual performance, be sure to explain the<br />
difference and suggest ways performance<br />
goals might be met. During the discussion,<br />
invite comments on any observations.<br />
Talk about future expectations and clarify<br />
job requirements and responsibilities.<br />
Enquire about the employee’s professionaldevelopment<br />
goals and discuss how to<br />
work towards meeting them. Be courteous<br />
and tactful and focus on behaviour rather<br />
than personality when being critical.<br />
MAINTAIN AN OPEN DOOR<br />
Employees may need time to digest the<br />
feedback from a review so encourage<br />
them to come back afterward if they have<br />
questions or concerns. If managers show<br />
that performance is not a once-a-year<br />
issue but a matter of ongoing importance,<br />
staff will focus less on the formal review<br />
itself and more on the feedback and<br />
guidance they receive. They’ll be motivated<br />
to see feedback as a way to help them with<br />
their performance.<br />
By preparing well in advance for<br />
performance reviews and developing a<br />
systematic, consistent appraisal process,<br />
managers can turn what could be an<br />
uncomfortable time into a chance to chat<br />
with team members and set goals for the<br />
future. Who knows? Both parties may even<br />
start to look forward to these feedback<br />
sessions and the business will benefit as a<br />
direct result. i<br />
BARBARA CROWHURST is<br />
CEO of Retail Makeover and<br />
an internationally recognised<br />
retail consultant. Learn more:<br />
retailmakeover.ca<br />
38 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
MARKETING & PR<br />
THE UGLY TRUTH OF COST CUTTING<br />
IN TOUGH TIMES, BUSINESSES LOVE TO CUT COSTS BUT, AS IAN ALTMAN REPORTS, IT’S CRUCIAL THAT BUSINESSES<br />
CONSIDER THE EFFECTS OF SUCH BEHAVIOUR UPON NOT ONLY CUSTOMERS BUT STAFF AS WELL.<br />
Those who specialise in expense reduction<br />
would accurately argue that each dollar a<br />
business earns in sales contributes a small<br />
percentage to profit; however, every dollar<br />
a business saves goes directly towards<br />
improving the bottom line, which is why<br />
it’s so effective in steadying unprofitable<br />
businesses. More often than not, when<br />
it comes to cutting costs, the first area is<br />
marketing and advertising.<br />
Cost cutting might be driven by a desire<br />
to price products or services more<br />
competitively, to improve financial<br />
performance or to better serve customers.<br />
Whichever the reason, the decision is never<br />
simple and businesses must be careful to<br />
not make some of the mistakes outlined<br />
here. Read on for the good, the bad and the<br />
ugly of cost cutting.<br />
GOOD COST CUTTING<br />
If businesses can reduce costs without any<br />
reduction in service quality then it’s a nobrainer.<br />
There are specialists who can work<br />
with businesses to cut costs in areas that<br />
often bring significant savings. These experts<br />
start by assessing the prices a business pays<br />
to third-party suppliers for essential goods<br />
and services like rent, utilities, internet and<br />
more. They compare these prices against<br />
what they believe is the right price for these<br />
products or services then negotiate with the<br />
provider or supplier to reduce costs while<br />
maintaining continuity of service.<br />
When businesses can save money without<br />
adversely impacting the customer, improved<br />
value is provided all around.<br />
BAD COST CUTTING<br />
It’s particularly important that costs are still<br />
cut carefully, ensuring any savings don’t<br />
have a negative impact upon employee<br />
and customer satisfaction as well as loyalty.<br />
Cost cutting can send the wrong message<br />
to staff and even customers if not done with<br />
an understanding of the flow-on effects. I<br />
travel often for business and recently noted<br />
BUSINESSES<br />
THAT CUT COSTS<br />
AT THE EXPENSE<br />
OF EMPLOYEES<br />
OR CUSTOMERS<br />
MOVE DOWN<br />
A DANGEROUS<br />
PATH TOWARD<br />
EXTINCTION<br />
CONSIDER THE IMPACTS OF COST CUTTING<br />
a minor difference in the concierge service<br />
between two luxury hotels. In the concierge<br />
lounge at the Marriott, the concierge told<br />
me she gets a bonus for each letter she<br />
receives from satisfied guests. She therefore<br />
persuades the chef to create exciting snacks<br />
to serve in the concierge lounge to improve<br />
guest satisfaction because this is how she<br />
gets measured and rewarded.<br />
Meanwhile, at a rival hotel, the concierge<br />
receives bonuses for cutting costs.<br />
Accordingly, she puts out fewer trays of<br />
food in the concierge lounge, which leaves<br />
guests without appetisers.<br />
The Marriott policy is to focus on loyalty<br />
and engagement over costs. As a result of<br />
this, I switched to the Marriott after decades<br />
as a loyal guest in other programs. I want to<br />
stay at a hotel that takes great care of me.<br />
UGLY COST CUTTING<br />
There is a Thai restaurant near my home<br />
that was very popular when it first opened.<br />
In recent years, the restaurant’s popularity<br />
has waned somewhat and the restaurant<br />
has started cutting staffing.<br />
This makes some sense as there’s no need<br />
to overstaff an empty restaurant; however,<br />
quality has also suffered. Portion sizes have<br />
reduced and prices have risen.<br />
When I raised the issue to a manager, he<br />
acknowledged the situation. “I keep telling<br />
them [management] but they’re all about<br />
cost cutting.”<br />
After a few poor experiences, I stopped<br />
going there. Recently, I walked past and this<br />
once great location that used to have a long<br />
queue in the evenings was almost empty at<br />
7:30pm on a Friday night.<br />
The tough lesson here is that businesses<br />
cannot save their way to prosperity.<br />
Those that cut costs without considering<br />
the impact on employees, customers and<br />
overall loyalty are making a conscious<br />
decision to follow a short-term path with<br />
poor long-term results. When businesses<br />
give up on attracting customers, cutting<br />
costs always seems like a good idea.<br />
AN ALTERNATIVE<br />
When revenue falls, it is natural to think<br />
about cutting costs but businesses should<br />
only do so while also focusing their efforts<br />
on finding ways to add the greatest value<br />
for existing and future customers.<br />
When done properly and sensibly, cost<br />
cutting can be very effective; however,<br />
businesses that cut costs at the expense<br />
of employees or customers move down a<br />
dangerous path toward extinction.<br />
Take a look at today’s best retailers. The<br />
top performers rarely compete on price<br />
or lowest cost but instead look for ways to<br />
champion the value of their products and<br />
services in a way that underlines quality and<br />
not price. Businesses that focus on delivering<br />
exceptional value will see their employee<br />
and customer loyalty reach new heights. i<br />
IAN ALTMAN helps clients<br />
to modernise sales and<br />
marketing. He is a globally<br />
respected business expert.<br />
Learn more: ianaltman.com<br />
<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 39
LOGGED ON<br />
MORE SOCIAL MEDIA MISTAKES TO AVOID<br />
IN A CONTINUATION OF LAST MONTH’S COLUMN, ALFRED LUA FROM SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGEMENT PLATFORM<br />
BUFFER DISCUSSES EVEN MORE WAYS THAT BUSINESSES CAN LEARN FROM THE ERRORS OF OTHERS.<br />
Last month, this column outlined some of<br />
the social media mistakes that the Buffer<br />
team had committed with the aim of<br />
ensuring other businesses did not make the<br />
same errors. Here’s a few more to avoid.<br />
LIMITING CONTENT<br />
Sharing only one’s own content on Facebook<br />
– We used to shy away from using content<br />
generated by others on the assumption<br />
that it wouldn’t contribute to the bottomline:<br />
traffic, signups and revenue. It even felt<br />
counter-intuitive – who wants to send traffic<br />
to someone else’s website? On reflection, this<br />
was short sighted.<br />
Sharing one’s own content means a business<br />
is really just marketing to its existing<br />
followers. This not only fails to expand our<br />
audience base but also increases the chance<br />
of turning existing followers off.<br />
By posting content from other sources<br />
such as TechCrunch and Wired, the Buffer<br />
page’s reach, engagement and fan base<br />
increased significantly.<br />
Five of our recent top 10 Facebook posts<br />
were taken from third parties. These posts<br />
reached more than 1.7 million people, most<br />
of which weren’t existing followers.<br />
NOT CURATING CONTENT<br />
Failing to curate user-generated content<br />
on Instagram – Many different Instagram<br />
strategies have been trialled since we at<br />
Buffer started using the platform in 2013,<br />
including photos of company retreats and<br />
corporate gatherings, staff sharing about<br />
their daily lives and the organisation’s weekly<br />
Twitter chat #bufferchat.<br />
Despite this, few followers were interested<br />
in the content; the account wasn’t growing<br />
and there were minimal post interactions.<br />
We then found a strategy that increased<br />
Instagram followers from 4,250 to 21,000<br />
within six months.<br />
The strategy? Curating user-generated<br />
content. By curating photos of direct interest<br />
to our target audience, coupled with a few<br />
Buffer items, we have built a large, engaged<br />
Instagram following.<br />
IRRELEVANT NEWS<br />
Failing to target specific audiences – Whenever<br />
we conducted a ‘meet-up’ or workshop, the<br />
Buffer team would share the event on our<br />
Facebook page with every fan, even though<br />
many fans weren’t located in the same city<br />
as the event.<br />
This would create an issue whereby our fans<br />
from around the world would receive posts<br />
regarding events outside their location –<br />
people based in London are unlikely to find<br />
posts regarding Buffer’s New York meet-up<br />
relevant. To correct this, we started using<br />
Facebook’s ‘preferred audience’ feature<br />
for localised posts. For example, when<br />
promoting a workshop in Philadelphia,<br />
posts were restricted so that only Buffer’s<br />
Philadelphia fans could see them.<br />
Preferred-audience posts reach fewer fans<br />
but they reach the right fans, creating a<br />
higher chance of engagement because posts<br />
are more relevant. At the same time, fans<br />
located outside Philadelphia won’t be turned<br />
off by seeing posts that are likely to be less<br />
relevant to them.<br />
Facebook applies a posting algorithm that<br />
assigns a personalised relevancy score to<br />
every post a user can see. Facebook then<br />
uses this score to show posts in the order<br />
that is most relevant to users. By showing<br />
posts preferentially to the most relevant<br />
users, Facebook will be more likely to show<br />
our posts to users who are fans of Buffer<br />
rather than showing those fans less relevant<br />
posts from other businesses. This is especially<br />
useful for small businesses that have a local<br />
target audience.<br />
NO RESPONSE<br />
Failing to reply to questions – Surprisingly,<br />
businesses ignore 89 per cent of people<br />
who want a response, according to research<br />
by social media management and analytics<br />
IMPROVE ONLINE EFFORTS BY TAKING NOTE OF WHAT OTHERS HAVE DONE<br />
BY POSTING<br />
CONTENT FROM<br />
OTHER SOURCES,<br />
THE BUFFER<br />
PAGE’S REACH,<br />
ENGAGEMENT<br />
AND FAN BASE<br />
INCREASED<br />
SIGNIFICANTLY<br />
software provider Sprout Social.<br />
In the same research, Sprout Social found<br />
the following great benefits for businesses<br />
who responded to customer questions on<br />
social media:<br />
• 70 per cent of people are more likely to<br />
use the brand’s product or service after<br />
receiving a response<br />
• 65 per cent of people have more brand<br />
loyalty after receiving a response<br />
• 75 per cent of people are likely to share a<br />
good experience on their own profile after<br />
receiving a response.<br />
We reply to most questions on Buffer’s social<br />
media profiles and the team is working to<br />
reply even faster after research from social<br />
media specialist Jay Baer found that 42 per<br />
cent of people who reach out to a brand on<br />
social media for customer support expect a<br />
response within 60 minutes.<br />
This concludes the two-part series on social<br />
media mistakes. Hopefully retailers find these<br />
to be useful when planning and managing<br />
their next social media strategies. i<br />
ALFRED LUA is the content<br />
crafter for social media<br />
management business Buffer.<br />
Learn more: buffer.com<br />
40 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
GEMS<br />
COLOUR INVESTIGATION: LABRADORITE<br />
IMAGE COURTESY GREG C GRACE<br />
the thickness of the alternating layers. More<br />
commonly unearthed with a blue-green<br />
schiller, labradorite is traditionally favoured<br />
with a rich blue-violet labradorescence.<br />
Occasionally exceptional quality specimens<br />
may present flashes of the full spectrum<br />
of colour and are given the trade name<br />
of spectrolite (Figure 1). The value of a<br />
gemstone rests on the strength, evenness<br />
and colour of the schiller.<br />
Like other feldspars, labradorite can form<br />
in large crystalline masses, and the size of<br />
gem-quality material is restricted only by the<br />
ability to produce a sufficient schiller that<br />
is viewable from an appropriate direction.<br />
With the possibility of a gemstone parting or<br />
splitting along the twin planes of weakness,<br />
faceting the gemstone material can be a<br />
challenging task.<br />
FIGURE 1. SPECTROLITE<br />
The unexpected flash of colour and light<br />
rolling along the surface of a gemstone<br />
can be awe-inspiring. STACEY LIM<br />
reports that labradorite captures this<br />
spectacular effect known, eponymously,<br />
as labradorescence.<br />
This visual phenomenon observed in<br />
labradorite is not due to the body colour of<br />
the gemstone but rather is a consequence<br />
of the diffraction of light from beneath the<br />
surface. Typically possessing light to dark<br />
grey body colour, labradorite can transform<br />
before one’s eyes when a light source is<br />
directed at its surface.<br />
Feldspars are the most common minerals of<br />
the earth’s crust and whilst for the most part<br />
they are lacklustre, labradorite is one variety<br />
that is truly extraordinary.<br />
Belonging to the plagioclase series of<br />
feldspars, this mineral was named after the<br />
Labrador Peninsula in Canada where it was<br />
FIGURE 2. RAINBOW MOONSTONE<br />
first identified in 1770. Today, Madagascar<br />
and Finland are the principle sources of<br />
gem-quality labradorite, with Madagascar<br />
producing gemstones with an intense blueviolet<br />
sheen that are in high demand.<br />
Renowned for its labradorescent sheen,<br />
called schiller, the source of this playful<br />
colour-creating phenomenon is an internal<br />
structure composed of lamellar twinning;<br />
a delicate layering of alternating sodiumrich<br />
(albite) and calcium-rich (anorthite)<br />
plagioclase feldspar minerals. As white light<br />
penetrates the gemstone’s surface, it reflects<br />
off these internal twinning planes producing<br />
flashes of colour that can be seen in certain<br />
directions and at certain angles.<br />
These spectral colours of light, ranging from<br />
red through to violet, are a result of light<br />
interference from reflections off the thin<br />
layers of feldspar minerals.<br />
The colours produced are dependant on<br />
THE VALUE OF<br />
A GEMSTONE<br />
RESTS ON THE<br />
STRENGTH,<br />
EVENNESS AND<br />
COLOUR OF<br />
THE SCHILLER<br />
A transparent-colourless to translucentwhite<br />
variety of labradorite, found in the<br />
Indian state of Bihar, displays a blue through<br />
to multi-coloured schiller and has been<br />
known in the marketplace as ‘rainbow<br />
moonstone’ (Figure 2) since the mid-1990s.<br />
True moonstone is actually orthoclase,<br />
a potassium feldspar, which obtains its<br />
characteristic blue schiller from included<br />
layers of albite (a plagioclase feldspar),<br />
whereas labradorite obtains its schiller from<br />
lamellar twinning of albite and anorthite,<br />
two different plagioclase feldspars.<br />
Thus, although moonstone is chemically<br />
a different kind of feldspar and its source<br />
of schiller is different to that of labradorite,<br />
the colour effect is similar enough that the<br />
name ‘rainbow moonstone’ has become an<br />
accepted name within the industry for this<br />
variety of labradorite. i<br />
STACEY LIM FGAA BA Design, is a qualified<br />
gemmologist and gemmology teacher/assistant.<br />
She is a jewellery designer, marketing manager<br />
and passionate communicator on gemmology.<br />
For information on gemstones, visit: gem.org.au<br />
<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 41
10 YEARS AGO<br />
WHAT WAS MAKING NEWS 10 YEARS AGO?<br />
A SNAPSHOT OF THE INDUSTRY EVENTS THAT MADE NEWS HEADLINES IN THE NOVEMBER 2007 ISSUE OF JEWELLER.<br />
HRD to welcome<br />
Nationwide<br />
The story: Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s is offering members<br />
the chance to tour the HRD laboratory in early 2008<br />
as a part of a two-week tour including Luxembourg,<br />
Cairo and a Nile River cruise.<br />
The move is a breakthrough for the buying group –<br />
as it is extremely rare for visitors to be given access<br />
to the Antwerp-based lab – and an extension of<br />
the company’s relationship with Gabi Tolkowsky.<br />
Select Nationwide members met the renowned<br />
diamontaire responsible for cutting three of the<br />
most famous diamonds, including the 274-carat,<br />
Aussie designers<br />
come first<br />
The story: Sydney jewellery designer OK Jin<br />
Jang has done it again, this time taking out<br />
a gong in the International Opal <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />
Design Awards 2007.<br />
The 2006 JAA Apprentice of the Year won<br />
the IOJDA Prestige Professional Apprentice<br />
Award, with a pendant-brooch entitled<br />
Sunset at Ayres Rock. Fashioned from<br />
18-carat white, yellow and rose gold, the<br />
winning design boasted a large, square<br />
opal from Lightning Ridge surrounded by<br />
a colourful medley of diamonds, blue and<br />
pink sapphires, topaz and peridot.<br />
D-flawless Centenary Diamond, in March 2007.<br />
Subsequently, Tolkowsky has agreed to join<br />
the group at its official dinner in Antwerp in<br />
March 2008.<br />
JAA COUNTERACTS<br />
JEWELLER DISTRUST CLAIM<br />
The story: A spate of angry feedback<br />
from Australian jewellers has<br />
prompted JAA CEO Ian Hadassin<br />
to ask several publications to<br />
explain reports they ran detailing a<br />
controversial online poll from the<br />
Diamond Certification Laboratory of<br />
Australia (DCLA).<br />
In a letter sent to Sydney Morning<br />
Herald, Rapaport News and Idex<br />
Online, the JAA head questioned not<br />
only the validity of the poll – which<br />
asserted that “nearly 70 per cent of<br />
consumers do not trust their jeweller”<br />
– but the efforts of the publications<br />
to ensure the story was correct prior<br />
to print.<br />
Labelling the DCLA poll “highly<br />
contentious”, Hadassin’s letter<br />
reminded the publications of the<br />
voluntary Press Council code,<br />
stating, “Newspapers and magazines<br />
(“publications”) should not publish<br />
what they know or could reasonably<br />
be expected to know is false, or fail<br />
to take reasonable steps to check the<br />
accuracy of what they report”.<br />
Hadassin then asked what steps were<br />
taken to “evaluate the authenticity of<br />
the survey”.<br />
Calleija hits London<br />
The story: Queensland-based Calleija<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>s has made its international debut<br />
with the launch of a collection of pinkdiamond<br />
designs created especially for<br />
iconic London department store Harrods.<br />
The inclusion of the range of necklets,<br />
rings and earrings each featuring pink<br />
diamonds is reportedly a first for an<br />
Australian jeweller, and eventuated after<br />
Calleija director John Calleija impressed<br />
the Harrods Fine <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Department<br />
with the collection of diamond creations<br />
– particularly the rarity of the Argyle<br />
pink diamonds incorporated in Calleija’s<br />
detailed designs.<br />
42 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
EVENTS<br />
JEWELLERY AND WATCH CALENDAR<br />
A GUIDE TO THE LOCAL AND INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY AND WATCH EVENTS SCHEDULED TO TAKE PLACE IN THE YEAR AHEAD.<br />
NOVEMBER <strong>2017</strong><br />
TAIWAN JEWELLERY<br />
& GEM FAIR<br />
Taipei, Taiwan<br />
<strong>November</strong> 3–6<br />
Learn more: taiwanjewelleryfair.com<br />
WORLD RUBY FORUM<br />
Bangkok, Thailand<br />
<strong>November</strong> 4<br />
Learn more: www.worldrubyforum.com<br />
CIBJO CONGRESS<br />
Bangkok, Thailand<br />
<strong>November</strong> 5–7<br />
Learn more: cibjo.org/congress<strong>2017</strong><br />
CHINA INTERNATIONAL<br />
JEWELLERY FAIR<br />
Beijing, China<br />
<strong>November</strong> 9–13<br />
Learn more: chinaexhibition.com/<br />
Official_Site/11-9164-<strong>2017</strong>_China_<br />
International_<strong>Jeweller</strong>y_Fair_(Winter).<br />
html<br />
VOD DUBAI<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
JEWELLERY SHOW<br />
Dubai, United Arab Emirates<br />
<strong>November</strong> 15–18<br />
Learn more: jewelleryshow.com<br />
CHINA INTERNATIONAL<br />
GOLD, JEWELLERY<br />
& GEM FAIR<br />
Shanghai, China<br />
<strong>November</strong> 17–20<br />
Learn more: www.exhibitions.<br />
jewellerynetasia.com/shj/zh-cn<br />
JEWELLERY ARABIA<br />
Manama, Bahrain<br />
<strong>November</strong> 21–25<br />
Learn more: jewelleryarabia.com<br />
JANUARY 2018<br />
SALON INTERNATIONAL<br />
DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE<br />
(SIHH)<br />
Geneva, Switzerland<br />
January 15–19<br />
Learn more: sihh.org<br />
VICENZAORO T-GOLD<br />
Vicenza, Italy<br />
January 19–24<br />
Learn more: 10times.com/t-gold<br />
TUCSON GEM, MINERAL &<br />
FOSSIL SHOWCASE<br />
Tucson, US<br />
January 27 – February 11<br />
Learn more: visittucson.org/events/<br />
gem-show<br />
FEBRUARY 2018<br />
JEWELLERY & WATCH<br />
Birmingham, UK<br />
February 4–8<br />
Learn more:<br />
jewelleryandwatchbirmingham.com<br />
NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS<br />
TIME OUT CONFERENCE<br />
Canberra, Australia<br />
February 9–11<br />
BANGKOK GEMS &<br />
JEWELRY FAIR<br />
Bangkok, Thailand<br />
February 21–25<br />
Learn more: bkkgems.com<br />
HONG KONG<br />
INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND,<br />
GEM & PEARL SHOW<br />
Hong Kong<br />
February 27 – March 3<br />
Learn more: m.hktdc.com/fair/<br />
hkdgp-en/HKTDC-Hong-Kong-<br />
International-Diamond--Gem---<br />
Pearl-Show.html<br />
MARCH 2018<br />
HONG KONG<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
JEWELLERY SHOW<br />
Hong Kong<br />
March 1–5<br />
Learn more: m.hktdc.com/fair/<br />
hkjewellery-en/HKTDC-Hong-Kong-<br />
International-<strong>Jeweller</strong>y-Show.html<br />
BASELWORLD<br />
Basel, Switzerland<br />
March 22–27<br />
Learn more: baselworld.com<br />
COOBER PEDY GEM<br />
TRADE SHOW<br />
Coober Pedy, South Australia<br />
March 31 – April 1<br />
Learn more:<br />
cooberpedygemtradeshow.com.au/<br />
Home.aspx<br />
APRIL 2018<br />
NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS<br />
ANTWERP TRIP<br />
Antwerp, Belgium<br />
April 8–13<br />
MAY 2018<br />
NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS<br />
AFRICA TRIP<br />
Africa<br />
May 3–11<br />
JUNE 2018<br />
JCK LAS VEGAS<br />
Las Vegas, US<br />
June 1–4<br />
Learn more: lasvegas.jckonline.com<br />
HONG KONG JEWELLERY<br />
& GEM FAIR<br />
Hong Kong<br />
June 21–24<br />
Learn more: www.jewellerynetasia.com<br />
Learn more: jewellerynetasia.com<br />
JULY 2018<br />
WINTON OPAL TRADESHOW<br />
Winton, QLD<br />
July 13–14<br />
Learn more: qboa.com.au<br />
LIGHTNING RIDGE OPAL<br />
AND GEM FESTIVAL<br />
Lightning Ridge, NSW<br />
July 26–29<br />
Learn more:<br />
lightningridgeopalfestival.com.au<br />
<strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 43
MY BENCH<br />
Graham Tighe<br />
WORKS AT:<br />
Tighe <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Studio<br />
AGE: 54<br />
YEARS IN TRADE: 36<br />
TRAINING: Goldsmith<br />
apprenticeship and a<br />
certificate in advanced<br />
diamond setting<br />
FIRST JOB: Three Castle<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>s, Ireland<br />
OTHER QUALIFICATIONS:<br />
Bachelor of business, WA<br />
Favourite gemstone:<br />
Opal. Its varying qualities<br />
and ever-changing colours<br />
make it the most interesting<br />
gemstone to work with.<br />
Favourite metal:<br />
Gold as it’s rich and lustrous.<br />
I especially like to design<br />
using gold nuggets.<br />
Favourite tool:<br />
My graver. It has so many<br />
uses; I’d be lost without it.<br />
Best tip from a jeweller:<br />
Never rush when you<br />
are setting.<br />
Best tip to a jeweller:<br />
Never stop learning.<br />
Biggest health concern:<br />
Sitting down for too long.<br />
My watch now tells me<br />
to move.<br />
Do you buy tooling locally,<br />
overseas or a mix of both?<br />
I try to buy everything<br />
locally; if we don’t support<br />
suppliers we will have none.<br />
What frustrates you most<br />
about the industry?<br />
The lack of hallmarking laws<br />
and price discounting to<br />
unsustainable margins.<br />
Such short-sightedness<br />
devalues our industry.<br />
My bench is always:<br />
Organised – my Dad taught<br />
me young to put tools back<br />
and I always have.<br />
Favourite sport/team:<br />
Soccer. I played until I was<br />
48 and Manchester United<br />
is my favourite team.
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®
SOAPBOX<br />
RISING STARS NEED SUPPORT<br />
WorldSkills Australia is dedicated to<br />
the promotion and the building of a<br />
skills culture that celebrates excellence.<br />
We support VET-based careers and<br />
endorse the value of apprenticeships<br />
and then challenge these apprentices<br />
through competition.<br />
It is a cause I am passionate about and while<br />
we do our best to learn about all VET sectors,<br />
I must admit that until August this year, my<br />
jewellery industry knowledge was limited<br />
to what I had observed at the different<br />
levels of competition in Australia and at the<br />
international WorldSkills competition. August<br />
<strong>2017</strong> marked a WorldSkills milestone where<br />
for the first time regional Australia jewellery<br />
competitions were held at the International<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair (IJF) in Sydney rather than at a<br />
TAFE or registered training organisation (RTO).<br />
Aside from the obvious benefits offered to<br />
the 23 competition participants, the move<br />
also gave us the opportunity to network with<br />
jewellers and educators. We gained insight<br />
into the exciting possibilities emerging in your<br />
industry, as well as the complex issues it faces.<br />
Firstly, on a positive note, the energy and<br />
innovation witnessed was indicative of a<br />
trade openly embracing new technology and<br />
advances in techniques and manufacturing.<br />
Having spoken to industry members, such as<br />
Pallion global manager of finished jewellery<br />
Darren May, we understand the industry has<br />
adopted an unprecedented amount of new<br />
manufacturing technologies in the past 10<br />
years. Darren has also explained that despite<br />
this interest in the new, there is still a focus<br />
on the strength of traditional skills and how<br />
far these specialised skills can take a jeweller<br />
who is dedicated, talented and immersed in<br />
their craft. This balancing of the ‘new’ jeweller<br />
that possesses both traditional handmade<br />
skills, along with a practical understanding<br />
of modern tools, and who can interact and<br />
engage with these new technologies is<br />
proving to be a more agile and adaptable<br />
individual. They are also proving to be the<br />
future direction of the industry.<br />
This leads to the next point: how does the<br />
local industry properly support and champion<br />
these rising stars of the jewellery world?<br />
Many of the jewellers and small business<br />
owners expressed their delight at seeing<br />
young apprentices and students participating<br />
in the regional competition and while they<br />
were happy to see so many young people<br />
coming through the industry, they expressed<br />
worry about where they would find ongoing<br />
work along with opportunities for up-skilling<br />
and career advancement.<br />
The concern raised was that there weren’t<br />
enough industry positions given many<br />
jewellers had their own businesses and<br />
were not at the stage where they required<br />
an apprentice. After speaking with jewellers<br />
and RTO reps at the IJF, it would appear that<br />
if this is the way the industry is at present,<br />
then the traditional four-year apprenticeship<br />
currently viable with many other trades<br />
is not one presently able to support the<br />
upcoming generation. To ensure those who<br />
are passionate about the industry and want to<br />
be part of it are given the opportunity to do<br />
so, either the industry or the training models<br />
need to be updated to make it easier for<br />
passion to be transformed into a career.<br />
This may not be easy to achieve short term<br />
I BELIEVE<br />
WORLDSKILLS<br />
IS DOING THIS<br />
FOR JEWELLERY<br />
BENCHMARKING;<br />
HOWEVER,<br />
MAYBE THERE<br />
CAN BE MORE<br />
COLLABORATION<br />
BETWEEN SMALLER<br />
BUSINESSES<br />
but in order to make any effective change,<br />
more feedback and consultation is necessary.<br />
The current organisation that oversees the<br />
training package development is Innovation<br />
and Business Skills Australia, and when the<br />
package is up for review, the industry needs<br />
to have an influential voice. One of the best<br />
examples I’ve seen lately of industry heads<br />
supporting their apprentices is equipment<br />
management company WesTrac. Through<br />
sustained training and development,<br />
WesTrac works with apprentices to create an<br />
environment built on loyalty. By continually<br />
benchmarking their apprentices against one<br />
another through internal competitions, it is<br />
ensuring that overall standards and training<br />
are aligned and up to date.<br />
I believe WorldSkills is doing this for jewellery<br />
benchmarking; however, maybe there can<br />
be more collaboration between smaller<br />
businesses – like conducting training days<br />
with other jewellers in the region or working<br />
with the local RTO to bring in apprentices for<br />
up-skilling with short courses.<br />
There were so many great takeaways from our<br />
involvement at the IJF and WorldSkills is now<br />
looking for other opportunities to showcase<br />
jewellery apprentices and the industry<br />
externally. If jewellers think the ‘old’ ways of<br />
doing things no longer work then WorldSkills<br />
Australia is happy to get the conversations<br />
going about the ‘new’ ways to support the<br />
future of this wonderful industry. i<br />
Name: Brigitte Collins<br />
Business: WorldSkills Australia<br />
Position: general manager, technical delegate<br />
Location: Sydney, NSW<br />
Years involved with WorldSkills: 20<br />
46 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>November</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
since 1966<br />
TWM<br />
Co<br />
TWM<br />
since 1966<br />
Co<br />
SPECIALISTS IN BESPOKE<br />
since 1966<br />
TWM<br />
Co<br />
TWM Consolidated PTY LTD<br />
03 9547 3113<br />
PROUDLY AUSTRALIAN MADE JEWELLERY & EXPERTS IN REFINING<br />
TWM<br />
since 65 1966 Roberts Avenue,<br />
Contact info@twmco.com.au<br />
Co<br />
Mulgrave, VIC, 3170<br />
www.twmco.com.au<br />
Instagram @twm_co<br />
Facebook @twmcorings
Excite<br />
Engage<br />
Experience<br />
Do it all at the International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair<br />
The International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair will return August 25 – 27, 2018<br />
International Convention Centre Sydney