Jeweller - November Issue 2017

WHITE METALS
FERVOR MONTREAL
“There seems to be a lot of confusion about the difference between 925 and
sterling silver, when in fact there is no difference,” Smith says.
“I always try to give a simple answer that sterling is any silver that is 92.5 per cent
pure silver or higher. I explain that sterling silver is way too soft to work with when
it is pure, so it is most frequently mixed with copper to give it strength; this is
a story I find myself saying over and over, particularly at trade fairs. I’m amazed
there is still a lot of confusion about what constitutes sterling silver and how it
relates to ‘925’.”
In a well-covered corner of the market, one way Smith is distinguishing his
product is with a unique alloy.
“We use our own proprietary alloy of sterling that gives our items the right mix of
strength, flexibility and tarnish resistance,” Smith explains.
“One of the biggest issues with sterling silver is tarnish. Being able to add tarnish
resistance helps a lot as it greatly reduces time spent polishing silver jewellery on
store shelves.”
Darren Roberts is director of men’s jewellery supplier Cudworth Enterprises.
He too believes there is confusion regarding the properties of sterling silver,
particularly amongst males.
When discussing new technological innovations and design methods employed
by Cudworth, Roberts points to gun metal and pearl rhodium plating.
“Gun metal is a dark grey colour and pearl is similar to brushed with a slight satin
finish,” he explains, adding that the plating gives the pieces a more modern and
masculine look while also preventing tarnishing or oxidising.
Jodie Tilia, director of Fervor Montreal local distributor JLM International, explains
that a recent addition to the Solitaire collection is a brushed finish designed to
highlight the sparkle of the Swarovski crystals used in the sterling silver pieces.
When asked about recent technological advancements, Tilia discusses the Crossfor
technology incorporated in the Canadian range’s Dancing Gems collection.
Using the technology, the crystals are set in a way in which they imitate the
movement of a swing.
Understanding the properties of sterling silver and being able to communicate
these to consumers is also important given the influx of plated base metal
jewellery, according to Smith.
“With so much plated base metal jewellery in the market, it raises the perceived
value of solid sterling items,” he explains, adding, “For those of us producing highquality,
solid sterling silver jewellery,
there is no point in competing on
TWIN PLAZA METALS
price; however, it is important to
educate stores and sales staff so
they can explain the differences
between solid and plated jewellery.”
#101
WHITE GOLD is an alloy of yellow gold and at least one other white
metal, such as palladium or silver. The colour of white gold can
vary, depending on the alloy formula used, and pieces are normally
plated with rhodium to enhance the white colour. Rhodium does
wear, meaning white gold should be re-plated about every 12-18
months, depending on the frequency of wear. It is available in a
variety of carats.
PLATINUM is used in jewellery in an almost pure form, about 95 per
cent. This rich purity makes the metal hypoallergenic, and its natural
white colour will not tarnish or lose its lustre. Platinum is long-wearing
and one of the strongest metals to manufacture.
PALLADIUM is part of the platinum group of metals but has a slightly
different shade of white than platinum and is less dense. It is resistant
to corrosion, won’t tarnish and doesn’t require rhodium plating.
PLATINUMSMITH
INDIRI
STERLING SILVER is a highly malleable metal, which lends itself to a
wide range of design options. It is also less expensive than other white
metals such as gold, platinum and palladium. It is, however, inclined to
tarnish and is much softer than other metals, meaning it is not ideal for
everyday use.
STAINLESS STEEL is resistant to corrosion and offers affordability and
low maintenance. The metal is quite rigid and inflexible and has long
been popular in the men’s market; however, a host of technological
advancements that allow for the incorporation of feminine elements
like gemstones and intricate designs has meant that the demand for
the metal among women is definitely increasing.
18 Jeweller November 2017