Caribbean Beat — 25th Anniversary Edition — March/April 2017 (#144)

nikhil ramkarran
Day Five: After overnighting at Kato, you depart for
Kurukubaru — thought to be the most elevated village in
Guyana. So you’ll understand why it has the nickname “Cold,
Cold Baru.” As in all indigenous villages, be mindful of local
customs. On my first visit, many years ago, when I took out my
digital camera, the older folks literal ran. Best to ask permission
for anything you want to do.
The people of Kurukubaru, as across the Pakaraimas, are
charming and shy. Ask a question and they may bow their heads,
giggling. But when you walk off, you may hear them whispering
in the Patamona tongue.
Past Kurukubaru, you’ll come to Kamana village,
and if you have the time and are a history buff, you’ll
want to ask about the trail where you can find battle
implements (such as clubs with spikes) and skeletal
remains, testifying to tribal wars of long ago. There
are also rock formations that are said to represent the
victories of various tribes.
Finally, from Kamana you travel to the last stop:
Orinduik Falls on the Ireng River, which forms the
border here between Guyana and Brazil. The falls
are named after a water weed which — if uprooted,
dried, burned, and mixed with honey — forms a sort of
chewing gum that’s prized for its euphoric properties.
So I’m told — I’ve never tried it myself.
You’d be crazy not to indulge in a refreshing bath
at the falls — where the river flows over outcrops of
jasper — before heading to the small airstrip to catch your flight
back to Georgetown. Unless you’re heading back out overland,
as you came. With just brief stops along the way, the return drive
takes three days to get back to Georgetown. However you end
your safari, before you leave, consider leaving a gift for your
Patamona hosts — to reciprocate their kind hospitality. n
Caribbean Airlines operates regular flights to Cheddi
Jagan International Airport in Georgetown from
Caribbean and North American destinations
miles of unspoilt rainforest | kayaking, paddling, canoeing | horseback riding | safari
wildlife watching | birdwatching | sports fishing | community tourism | trekking
3 Rupununi Music & Arts Festival, Georgetown
12 Phagwah Festival, National Stadium
12 Phagwah Celebration, National Holiday Country
19 Horse Racing, Kennard Memorial Turf
24 Linden Expo & Trade Fair, Linden
24 Wedding Expo 2017, Georgetown
25 ‘Clash of the Titans’ Show, National Stadium
7 Easter Seawall Art Festival, Georgetown
9 Pakaraima Mountain Safari, Pakaraima Mt.
14 Region 5 Expo & Trade Fair, Berbice
15 Bartica Easter Regatta, Bartica
15 Rupununi Rodeo, Lethem
17 Easter Monday, Countrywide
28 Guyana Restaurant Week, Georgetown
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