Caribbean Beat — 25th Anniversary Edition — March/April 2017 (#144)

NEIGHBOURHOOD
wilfred dederer
Port Elizabeth,
Bequia
More village than town, the capital of
Bequia — second-largest of the Grenadine
Islands — is a haven for both yachties,
beach-lovers, and artists alike
Streetscape
For many visitors, Bequia begins with arrival at the ferry terminal in
Port Elizabeth. “Front Street,” as the main road along the waterfront
is known, is the centre of activity: from the island’s administration
building and post office to the vegetable market to historic
St Mary’s Anglican church (at right), rebuilt after a hurricane in 1829.
Residential neighbourhoods climb the steep surrounding hills. South
of Port Elizabeth, the Belmont Walkway runs along the coast, lined
by restaurants, bars, and small hotels, in the direction of Princess
Margaret Beach, the island’s most famous swimming spot. Heading
the other way, north, the coast road leads to the remains of Hamilton
Fort, situated to command the entrance to the bay.
wilfred dederer
History
With its indigenous name meaning “island of the
clouds,” Bequia was originally settled by Caribs,
before coming under French colonial control. Ceded
to Britain in 1763, along with the other Grenadines,
St Vincent, and Grenada, Bequia was planted with
sugarcane and arrowroot, while Admiralty Bay on
the island’s west coast was considered the safest
harbour in the southern British West Indies. Port
Elizabeth, never large, nonetheless became an
important centre for boatbuilding and ship repairs.
In the 1960s and 70s, as the Grenadines were
“discovered” by wealthy tourists, the economy
of Bequia and its capital shifted from fishing and
seafaring to tourism — helped by the gorgeous
beaches and dive sites close offshore.
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