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Selwyn Times: January 31, 2017

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26<br />

Tuesday <strong>January</strong> <strong>31</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

Gardening<br />

SELWYN TIMES<br />

Brussels sprouts: Love ’em or hate ’em<br />

• By Janet Wade<br />

BRUSSELS SPROUTS top the list of New<br />

Zealand’s most disliked vegetables.<br />

The Belgians aren’t rushing to claim<br />

credit for these almost universally reviled<br />

vegetables, though the link to their capital<br />

city appears to have come from the<br />

vegetable’s popularity in Belgium during the<br />

Middle Ages and stuck as they spread to the<br />

rest of the world. To still be with us today,<br />

Brussels sprouts must have something going<br />

for them – and indeed they do!<br />

If the sprouts are picked when their<br />

heads are tight and no more than 2.5-5cm<br />

across, they are deliciously tender and have<br />

a milder, sweeter taste than their often<br />

tough, bitter, store-bought or frozen cousins.<br />

Likewise, the unpleasant, sulphurous odour<br />

that is associated with them doesn’t occur<br />

unless they are overcooked. The smell is<br />

produced by sulphur-containing compounds<br />

called glucosinolates that research indicates<br />

help prevent cancer (only broccoli contains<br />

more). Packed with an abundance of other<br />

vitamins and minerals, all in all, they are<br />

considered one of the world’s healthiest<br />

foods.<br />

Originating in the northern hemisphere,<br />

where Brussels sprouts are traditionally<br />

served as part of the British Christmas<br />

dinner (no doubt to the chagrin of British<br />

children), they are exclusively a crop<br />

for New Zealand’s colder climate areas.<br />

Ohakune and Oamaru are where most of<br />

our commercially-grown Brussels sprouts<br />

are produced. In saying that, the ones in the<br />

accompanying photographs were grown in<br />

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Modern hybrid varieties, such as these ‘Red Ribs’, have had the bitterness bred out<br />

of them; Firm the soil down around the seedlings well, so the plants can support their top-heavy growth, and the<br />

sprouts remain tight and firm; Keep an eye out for aphids, which secrete an enzyme that causes the leaves to curl<br />

over and hide them; The sprouts begin to form in the leaf axils once the plants are mature, meaning a long wait for<br />

the end result; Chocolate Brussels sprouts find equal favour with people who love Brussels sprouts and those who<br />

hate them; The sprouts begin to mature from the bottom of the stalk. Topping the plant concentrates all its energy<br />

into the sprouts and causes them to mature together.<br />

Auckland; however, plants grown in warm<br />

areas are more likely to produce loose heads<br />

(unrecognisable as Brussels sprouts), bolt<br />

to seed, and without frost the flavour of the<br />

sprouts isn’t as good.<br />

Warmer climates also allow their main<br />

pests to proliferate such as caterpillars,<br />

aphids and slugs and snails. Birds, too, can<br />

be a problem, targeting the seedlings and<br />

emerging sprouts (pigeons in particular).<br />

Netting can be used to keep the birds and<br />

butterflies at bay, but you will need to keep<br />

a careful watch for aphids, which secrete a<br />

chemical that causes the leaves to curl over<br />

to provide a hiding place.<br />

Brussels sprouts are normally planted very<br />

early in spring, and again in mid-to-late<br />

summer. Most varieties take at least three<br />

to five months to produce a harvest because<br />

the sprouts only form once the plant reaches<br />

maturity.<br />

The plants are best started in seed trays<br />

then transplanted around six weeks later,<br />

once they have four to six leaves, to a site in<br />

full sun, with well-drained soil, enriched<br />

with a high-nitrogen general garden<br />

fertiliser.<br />

Space the plants with at least 50cm<br />

between them, in rows around 75cm apart.<br />

Sink the seedlings down to their first set of<br />

leaves and firm the soil around them well, so<br />

that the plants can support their top-heavy<br />

growth, and the sprouts don’t develop loose<br />

heads because the plants rock around in the<br />

wind.<br />

Side-dress with a high-nitrogen fertiliser<br />

four weeks after planting and again at eight<br />

weeks, but don’t apply further nitrogen once<br />

the sprouts start to form. Keep the plants<br />

evenly moist during the growing season. A<br />

mulch can help to keep the soil cool and<br />

moist and suppress weed growth.<br />

WHAT<br />

YOU NEED<br />

TO KNOW<br />

When to plant<br />

Mid-late summer and<br />

again in early spring.<br />

Where to plant<br />

Full sun in nitrogenenriched,<br />

well-drained<br />

soil.<br />

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ISSN 2423-0219

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