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Selwyn Times: September 12, 2017

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34 Tuesday <strong>September</strong> <strong>12</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

Latest Christchurch news at www.star.kiwi<br />

Gardening<br />

SELWYN TIMES<br />

How to control leaf curl in peach trees<br />

• By Sarah Frater<br />

LEAF CURL (Taphrina<br />

deformans) is a common fungal<br />

disease that effects peach,<br />

nectarine, peachcott, and<br />

peacherine trees.<br />

It causes the leaves (and some<br />

times the fruit) of the infected<br />

tree to become puckered, curled<br />

and much thicker than normal. If<br />

left untreated the problem will get<br />

worse year-after-year and reduce<br />

the tree’s ability to produce lots of<br />

fruit.<br />

Over winter the fungal spores<br />

take up residence in different<br />

parts of the tree, but mainly in the<br />

buds. When the cool wet weather<br />

of spring and summer arrives<br />

many leaf curl spores are produced<br />

and are then splashed or<br />

blown from tree to tree. Because<br />

this is also the time the trees are<br />

breaking bud and forming new<br />

leaves, the new growth is easily<br />

reinfected with leaf curl.<br />

Controlling leaf curl isn’t easy<br />

but good orchard hygiene habits,<br />

which should be repeated each<br />

year, will give you the best chance.<br />

First of all, plant your trees<br />

where they will get adequate air<br />

movement – this will help minimise<br />

fungal problems.<br />

In spring apply a light dressing<br />

of a quick acting fertiliser such as<br />

sulphate of ammonia to encourage<br />

new leaf growth. At the same<br />

time, I also recommend applying<br />

a seaweed fertiliser to help the<br />

plants’ immunity to leaf curl.<br />

If you do get leaf curl, during<br />

spring is when you will notice it<br />

in your trees. Once you notice<br />

the symptoms of leaf curl in your<br />

NATURE’S BOUNTY: If left untreated leaf curl will get worse year-after-year and reduce a tree’s<br />

ability to produce fruit.<br />

leaves it is too late to control the<br />

disease in those leaves but there is<br />

lots you can to do try and stop the<br />

fungus from spreading.<br />

The first step is to remove and<br />

destroy as many infected leaves as<br />

practical. But don’t compost these<br />

as it will spread the infection.<br />

In autumn and early winter<br />

clean up around the base of any<br />

peach and nectarine trees and<br />

removing as many leaves as possible.<br />

Because these types of trees are<br />

susceptible to leaf curl, I suggest<br />

doing this regardless of whether<br />

they’ve shown any signs of<br />

disease. And, again remember –<br />

don’t compost the leaves.<br />

Next, you should spray your<br />

deciduous trees (the trees that<br />

lose their leaves every year) with<br />

lime sulphur.<br />

The lime sulphur acts by<br />

burning off the over wintering<br />

fungi and pests, including mites.<br />

It’s very important you do this<br />

for gooseberry bushes because<br />

they are prone to catching mites<br />

which can eat out the flower buds,<br />

meaning your bush ends up with<br />

no fruit. Luckily, the lime sulphur<br />

will get rid of those mites.<br />

But I don’t recommend applying<br />

it to your apricot trees<br />

because they can be sensitive to<br />

lime, so it’s best just to avoid it.<br />

Around now, in late winter/<br />

spring (and don’t worry if you<br />

haven’t done any of the other<br />

steps yet – just start now), apply<br />

a copper-based fungicide to all<br />

your deciduous fruit trees – not<br />

just peach trees. A copper-based<br />

fungicide will help stop leaf curl<br />

on peach and nectarine trees but<br />

it will also treat fungal problems<br />

on other fruit trees – like black<br />

spot on apple trees.<br />

I also recommend mixing<br />

in the copper fungicide with a<br />

spreader/sticker, which you can<br />

get from your local garden centre.<br />

It works a bit like soap.<br />

Combined with the fungicide,<br />

it will make the whole area you<br />

spray wet and then when it dries<br />

it sticks to the area so you get<br />

good coverage that sticks or stays<br />

on the tree for a long time.<br />

The copper fungicide (and<br />

spreader/sticker) should be applied<br />

while the leaf and flower<br />

buds are still closed – right before<br />

the buds burst. Spray thoroughly<br />

as you need to create a surface<br />

barrier.<br />

Then follow this up with<br />

another spray 10-14 days later –<br />

particularly if you’ve had lots of<br />

wet weather. This will ensure the<br />

trees get the coverage they need.<br />

Once you have flower buds<br />

showing it’s really important not<br />

to spray copper, as it’s very toxic<br />

to bees when it’s wet – though<br />

fine once it’s dried. And it’s also<br />

past the point of the copper being<br />

effective as the idea of the copper<br />

is to add a protectant layer over<br />

the buds, before they burst.<br />

And that’s it for the year. Now,<br />

you just have to go back to the<br />

beginning of the process and<br />

repeat all of the steps – except for<br />

applying copper fungicide.<br />

Because copper is a heavy metal<br />

it can build up in the soil. It’s also<br />

very toxic to bees when wet so<br />

should only be used when necessary.<br />

If in the past year your trees<br />

showed no signs of disease just skip<br />

the copper step the following year.<br />

But, if they are newly-planted<br />

trees; or were effected by fungus<br />

or disease; or you had a wet<br />

winter; or you didn’t spray with<br />

lime sulphur, then you should still<br />

apply copper fungicide.<br />

gardening without guesswork<br />

Question:<br />

Answer:<br />

What should I be doing to my lawn at this time of the year?<br />

(So that it’s stays healthy and green throughout Spring and Summer)<br />

After the wet winter that we have had, lawns<br />

are looking rather sad. Yellow foliage, lots of<br />

moss, and the ground has compacted with<br />

the wet. Once the grass has started to grow and the first cut has been made,<br />

you can start the renovation of the lawn.<br />

First, it is important that the grass is not cut too low<br />

and that the clippings are removed. To improve the<br />

aeration of the ground it can be cored using a coring<br />

tool and the resulting holes filled with lawn mix, sand<br />

or potting mix. If extra seed is required to cover bare<br />

patches, you can add that in as well. A garden fork<br />

worked back and forward will do the job for areas<br />

not too compacted. Moss may be treated with iron<br />

sulphate or any of the liquid moss control products<br />

but it is important to follow the instructions on the<br />

label accurately. After the 2nd or 3rd cut, you can<br />

now apply lawn fertiliser. Intelligro have a great<br />

lawn fertiliser that will help to promote dense leaf<br />

growth – reducing space for weeds, it helps to<br />

develop the grass at the roots, and also has iron<br />

sulphate added to help control moss. Separate<br />

weed control may be done once the temperatures<br />

warm up later in <strong>September</strong>.<br />

for more information, check out our website: www.intelligro.co.nz<br />

or visit our facebook page: www.facebook.com/igro.co.nz<br />

Thanks to anthony for her question.<br />

WIN!<br />

a $50<br />

INTEllIgrO gIfT<br />

VOuchEr!<br />

don’t forget to water<br />

Send us your<br />

question and<br />

BE IN<br />

TO WIN!<br />

Email to: info@igro.co.nz or post<br />

your question on our Facebook page:<br />

www.facebook.com/igro.co.nz<br />

New questions to be received<br />

by Tuesday 19th <strong>September</strong>.<br />

As we draw closer and closer to the warmer, drier weather<br />

we need to remember to establish a regular watering<br />

pattern. This extends to all areas of the garden, not just the<br />

lawn. Make a plan to give your lawn and plants a good<br />

soak of water every few days. This is far more effective than<br />

a light sprinkle each day.<br />

QualITy prOducTs frOm ThE WEB TO ThE shEd!

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