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34 Tuesday <strong>September</strong> <strong>12</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />
Latest Christchurch news at www.star.kiwi<br />
Gardening<br />
SELWYN TIMES<br />
How to control leaf curl in peach trees<br />
• By Sarah Frater<br />
LEAF CURL (Taphrina<br />
deformans) is a common fungal<br />
disease that effects peach,<br />
nectarine, peachcott, and<br />
peacherine trees.<br />
It causes the leaves (and some<br />
times the fruit) of the infected<br />
tree to become puckered, curled<br />
and much thicker than normal. If<br />
left untreated the problem will get<br />
worse year-after-year and reduce<br />
the tree’s ability to produce lots of<br />
fruit.<br />
Over winter the fungal spores<br />
take up residence in different<br />
parts of the tree, but mainly in the<br />
buds. When the cool wet weather<br />
of spring and summer arrives<br />
many leaf curl spores are produced<br />
and are then splashed or<br />
blown from tree to tree. Because<br />
this is also the time the trees are<br />
breaking bud and forming new<br />
leaves, the new growth is easily<br />
reinfected with leaf curl.<br />
Controlling leaf curl isn’t easy<br />
but good orchard hygiene habits,<br />
which should be repeated each<br />
year, will give you the best chance.<br />
First of all, plant your trees<br />
where they will get adequate air<br />
movement – this will help minimise<br />
fungal problems.<br />
In spring apply a light dressing<br />
of a quick acting fertiliser such as<br />
sulphate of ammonia to encourage<br />
new leaf growth. At the same<br />
time, I also recommend applying<br />
a seaweed fertiliser to help the<br />
plants’ immunity to leaf curl.<br />
If you do get leaf curl, during<br />
spring is when you will notice it<br />
in your trees. Once you notice<br />
the symptoms of leaf curl in your<br />
NATURE’S BOUNTY: If left untreated leaf curl will get worse year-after-year and reduce a tree’s<br />
ability to produce fruit.<br />
leaves it is too late to control the<br />
disease in those leaves but there is<br />
lots you can to do try and stop the<br />
fungus from spreading.<br />
The first step is to remove and<br />
destroy as many infected leaves as<br />
practical. But don’t compost these<br />
as it will spread the infection.<br />
In autumn and early winter<br />
clean up around the base of any<br />
peach and nectarine trees and<br />
removing as many leaves as possible.<br />
Because these types of trees are<br />
susceptible to leaf curl, I suggest<br />
doing this regardless of whether<br />
they’ve shown any signs of<br />
disease. And, again remember –<br />
don’t compost the leaves.<br />
Next, you should spray your<br />
deciduous trees (the trees that<br />
lose their leaves every year) with<br />
lime sulphur.<br />
The lime sulphur acts by<br />
burning off the over wintering<br />
fungi and pests, including mites.<br />
It’s very important you do this<br />
for gooseberry bushes because<br />
they are prone to catching mites<br />
which can eat out the flower buds,<br />
meaning your bush ends up with<br />
no fruit. Luckily, the lime sulphur<br />
will get rid of those mites.<br />
But I don’t recommend applying<br />
it to your apricot trees<br />
because they can be sensitive to<br />
lime, so it’s best just to avoid it.<br />
Around now, in late winter/<br />
spring (and don’t worry if you<br />
haven’t done any of the other<br />
steps yet – just start now), apply<br />
a copper-based fungicide to all<br />
your deciduous fruit trees – not<br />
just peach trees. A copper-based<br />
fungicide will help stop leaf curl<br />
on peach and nectarine trees but<br />
it will also treat fungal problems<br />
on other fruit trees – like black<br />
spot on apple trees.<br />
I also recommend mixing<br />
in the copper fungicide with a<br />
spreader/sticker, which you can<br />
get from your local garden centre.<br />
It works a bit like soap.<br />
Combined with the fungicide,<br />
it will make the whole area you<br />
spray wet and then when it dries<br />
it sticks to the area so you get<br />
good coverage that sticks or stays<br />
on the tree for a long time.<br />
The copper fungicide (and<br />
spreader/sticker) should be applied<br />
while the leaf and flower<br />
buds are still closed – right before<br />
the buds burst. Spray thoroughly<br />
as you need to create a surface<br />
barrier.<br />
Then follow this up with<br />
another spray 10-14 days later –<br />
particularly if you’ve had lots of<br />
wet weather. This will ensure the<br />
trees get the coverage they need.<br />
Once you have flower buds<br />
showing it’s really important not<br />
to spray copper, as it’s very toxic<br />
to bees when it’s wet – though<br />
fine once it’s dried. And it’s also<br />
past the point of the copper being<br />
effective as the idea of the copper<br />
is to add a protectant layer over<br />
the buds, before they burst.<br />
And that’s it for the year. Now,<br />
you just have to go back to the<br />
beginning of the process and<br />
repeat all of the steps – except for<br />
applying copper fungicide.<br />
Because copper is a heavy metal<br />
it can build up in the soil. It’s also<br />
very toxic to bees when wet so<br />
should only be used when necessary.<br />
If in the past year your trees<br />
showed no signs of disease just skip<br />
the copper step the following year.<br />
But, if they are newly-planted<br />
trees; or were effected by fungus<br />
or disease; or you had a wet<br />
winter; or you didn’t spray with<br />
lime sulphur, then you should still<br />
apply copper fungicide.<br />
gardening without guesswork<br />
Question:<br />
Answer:<br />
What should I be doing to my lawn at this time of the year?<br />
(So that it’s stays healthy and green throughout Spring and Summer)<br />
After the wet winter that we have had, lawns<br />
are looking rather sad. Yellow foliage, lots of<br />
moss, and the ground has compacted with<br />
the wet. Once the grass has started to grow and the first cut has been made,<br />
you can start the renovation of the lawn.<br />
First, it is important that the grass is not cut too low<br />
and that the clippings are removed. To improve the<br />
aeration of the ground it can be cored using a coring<br />
tool and the resulting holes filled with lawn mix, sand<br />
or potting mix. If extra seed is required to cover bare<br />
patches, you can add that in as well. A garden fork<br />
worked back and forward will do the job for areas<br />
not too compacted. Moss may be treated with iron<br />
sulphate or any of the liquid moss control products<br />
but it is important to follow the instructions on the<br />
label accurately. After the 2nd or 3rd cut, you can<br />
now apply lawn fertiliser. Intelligro have a great<br />
lawn fertiliser that will help to promote dense leaf<br />
growth – reducing space for weeds, it helps to<br />
develop the grass at the roots, and also has iron<br />
sulphate added to help control moss. Separate<br />
weed control may be done once the temperatures<br />
warm up later in <strong>September</strong>.<br />
for more information, check out our website: www.intelligro.co.nz<br />
or visit our facebook page: www.facebook.com/igro.co.nz<br />
Thanks to anthony for her question.<br />
WIN!<br />
a $50<br />
INTEllIgrO gIfT<br />
VOuchEr!<br />
don’t forget to water<br />
Send us your<br />
question and<br />
BE IN<br />
TO WIN!<br />
Email to: info@igro.co.nz or post<br />
your question on our Facebook page:<br />
www.facebook.com/igro.co.nz<br />
New questions to be received<br />
by Tuesday 19th <strong>September</strong>.<br />
As we draw closer and closer to the warmer, drier weather<br />
we need to remember to establish a regular watering<br />
pattern. This extends to all areas of the garden, not just the<br />
lawn. Make a plan to give your lawn and plants a good<br />
soak of water every few days. This is far more effective than<br />
a light sprinkle each day.<br />
QualITy prOducTs frOm ThE WEB TO ThE shEd!