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northbrooktower.com DINING OUT<br />

the northbrook tower | April 5, 2018 | 35<br />

Back to basics<br />

Greenwood offers<br />

accessible, natural<br />

food<br />

Xavier Ward<br />

Contributing Editor<br />

Josh Kaplan and Mark<br />

Newman grew up next<br />

door to each other in Highland<br />

Park, so there’s something<br />

serendipitous about<br />

their second restaurant<br />

opening two doors down<br />

from the first.<br />

Greenwood, Highwood’s<br />

newest restaurant,<br />

is nestled on the corner of<br />

Green Bay Road and Prairie<br />

Avenue. The unassuming<br />

facade gives way to a<br />

rustic minimalist interior<br />

and spacious, open dining<br />

area.<br />

Kaplan and Newman’s<br />

first restaurant, Ballaro, is<br />

on the same block at 214<br />

Green Bay Road, Highwood.<br />

“It was actually the<br />

perfect location, because<br />

Mark and I always wanted<br />

to expand, but being two<br />

doors away made it so<br />

much more feasible,” Kaplan<br />

said. Green Bay and<br />

Sheridan roads, divided by<br />

train tracks, are lined with<br />

popular restaurants. While<br />

an established restaurant<br />

and entertainment culture<br />

in Highwood guarantees<br />

foot traffic, standing out<br />

in Highwood is no small<br />

task.<br />

“You look at the elements<br />

— the simple elements<br />

— which [are] good<br />

food, good atmosphere,<br />

good service and value,<br />

and if you nail those, people<br />

will be loyal and they’ll<br />

come back,” Kaplan said.<br />

While the food stands<br />

for itself, Kaplan said, the<br />

design was something he<br />

felt brought a new attraction<br />

to the area. The interior’s<br />

soft, earthy colors<br />

and squared, minimalist<br />

woodwork sets the tone<br />

of the meal before guests<br />

have even ordered.<br />

“With the food, we actually<br />

went for familiarity,<br />

people will know this<br />

food, they’ll understand<br />

it,” Kaplan said.<br />

“People want their comfort,<br />

they want their familiarity,”<br />

said Newman,<br />

co-captain and executive<br />

chef. “They also want that<br />

touch of differentiation.”<br />

A lot of the inspiration<br />

for the food came from<br />

’50s and ’60s dining, Newman<br />

said.<br />

“You go back to the old<br />

stuff, and you make sure<br />

everything is made from<br />

scratch,” he said.<br />

Naturally, the restaurant<br />

offers a modern spin on<br />

most of the dishes.<br />

Sometimes basic is best.<br />

“Do the mussels the best<br />

that you can, do the hamburger<br />

the best that you<br />

can,” he said.<br />

According to Newman,<br />

the advantage of making<br />

everything from scratch is<br />

the control of ingredients.<br />

That makes accommodating<br />

dietary restrictions,<br />

such as gluten intolerance,<br />

much easier from a kitchen<br />

perspective.<br />

It’s the same story at<br />

Ballaro. All of the menu<br />

items, pasta included, are<br />

made in house.<br />

“The challenge is always<br />

sourcing the right<br />

ingredients,” he said.<br />

The Midwest offers its<br />

challenges, which means<br />

the food can’t always be<br />

directly farm to table, but<br />

by establishing relationships<br />

with distributors,<br />

vendors and producers<br />

throughout his culinary career,<br />

Newman said he can<br />

still offer the freshest food.<br />

Ballaro and Kaplan<br />

Greenwood<br />

200 Green Bay Road,<br />

Highwood<br />

5-9 p.m. Monday-<br />

Thursday<br />

5-10 p.m. Friday-<br />

Saturday<br />

5-8:30 p.m.Sunday<br />

Greenwoodhw.com<br />

(847) 926-7319<br />

Greenwood’s starter of mussels mariniere ($12) features a generous portion of<br />

mussels served in a sauce made with white wine, shallots, parsley and butter. Photos<br />

by Brittany Kapa/22nd Century Media<br />

A crispy skin incases a tender grilled brick chicken ($22) entree that is served with<br />

herbed potato wedges and green beans all covered in a flavorful chicken au jus<br />

sauce.<br />

spend most of their time at<br />

Greenwood to make sure<br />

it gets off to a proper start,<br />

but they still keep an eye<br />

on Ballaro.<br />

That said, they’ve promoted<br />

a few employees<br />

from within to manage<br />

both the front of house and<br />

the kitchen.<br />

“When you’ve been doing<br />

something for two and<br />

a half years, if you can’t<br />

step away from it and<br />

have it run efficiently, you<br />

haven’t done something<br />

right,” Newman said.<br />

Greenwood’s kitchen<br />

isn’t the only thing they<br />

hope will draw customers.<br />

Kaplan said its service<br />

and bar are equally as important.<br />

“You look around, you<br />

see a room full of smiling<br />

servers,” he said. “I think<br />

we have great service, we<br />

hire people with great personalities<br />

[who] are empathetic<br />

and care about the<br />

guests and the service and<br />

are truly engaged.”<br />

Additionally, Greenwood’s<br />

bartender, Russ<br />

Waters, is somewhat of<br />

a local celebrity, Kaplan<br />

said.<br />

Editors from 22nd Century<br />

media stopped by to<br />

sample the fair. Here’s<br />

what we found.<br />

The skillet cornbread<br />

($9) comes topped with<br />

a dollop of honey butter.<br />

The skillet is preheated in<br />

the oven before the batter<br />

is added, which Newman<br />

said helps achieve a symmetry<br />

of a crispy exterior<br />

and moist interior.<br />

The avocado toast ($12)<br />

is made with fresh avocado<br />

spread on a crusty<br />

white bread topped with a<br />

chili-lime and corn medley,<br />

sprinkled with queso<br />

fresco cheese.<br />

The mussels and mariniere<br />

($12) is a classic. The<br />

cooked mussels are tossed<br />

in the mariniere, a sauce<br />

made of white wine, shallots,<br />

parsley and butter.<br />

For the main course,<br />

Greenwood offers a hearty<br />

list of entrées, sandwiches<br />

and salads, as well as steak<br />

frites.<br />

The grilled brick chicken<br />

($22) includes two<br />

pieces of on-the-bone<br />

chicken, sitting atop a bed<br />

of herb-roasted potatoes<br />

and green beans.<br />

If you’re looking for a<br />

classic, the double cheeseburger<br />

($14) features two<br />

riddled patties topped high<br />

with American cheese,<br />

grilled onions, lettuce and<br />

tomato.<br />

And if you’d like something<br />

sweeter, you can try<br />

any of Greenwood’s desserts.<br />

The warm chocolate<br />

brownie ($8) is a classic<br />

brownie cooked and served<br />

in a ceramic bowl with a<br />

side of the house-made,<br />

soft-serve ice cream.<br />

The warm apple crisp<br />

($8) is a gluten free alternative,<br />

cooked and served<br />

in the same ceramic bowl,<br />

with a side of the soft<br />

serve, as well.

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