Arts & Letters, April 2018

Travelogue
Kashmir:
Heaven
on earth
•Sayeeda T Ahmad
Snow-capped mountains. Mountain lakes. Fields of flowers. Kashmir
is known far and wide as the “Heaven on Earth.” Despite the conflict
since 1947 when Kashmir was partitioned, with India, Pakistan
and China claiming rights over its territories, a visit to the area has
always been in the back of my mind. Thus, when Tour Pedia, a budding Bangladesh-based
tour company specializing in affordable tours, announced a 12-
day group tour, my mother and I jumped at the chance.
This would be my first visit to not only the state of Jammu-Kashmir but
also India. After an overnight bus trip from Kallyanpur bus station on November
23, we arrived at the Benapole-Petrapole border the next morning. On
completing all immigration formalities, we hopped in another bus of the same
company, and were on our way to Kolkata.
Arriving at our hotel in the late afternoon, we had only a few hours to
freshen up, take a tour of the city, grab dinner, shop, and also drag our luggage
to Howrah Junction, as our electric train, Himgiri Express, would leave
that night. Eastern Railways operates the train, connecting Howrah Junction
with Jammu Tawa, crossing 32 stations in 36 hours and 40 minutes. Bad luck,
though. Our train arrived 10 hours late on November 26 due to frequent stops
caused by ongoing maintenance work.
Outside Jammu Tawa, we found a number of street food options. While
our organizers went to find where our reserved bus was parked, we grabbed
a quick snack of Rajma and Rumali Roti. Many of us hadn’t had dinner on the
train, unsure when we would arrive. Hence, a couple of hours after departing
for Srinagar, we pulled into a roadside dhaba for late-night supper. The best
part: Wide open starry skies outside and the lights of the Vaishno Devi temple,
on a distant hill, glinting in the darkness.
Locals in the Jammu area of the state are Hindus on the eastern side and
speak Hindi, Punjabi, and Dogri. Most dhabas offer vegetarian options. There
are also a number of temples, and a bare handful of mosques. Meanwhile, residents
on the western side, in the Vale of Kashmir, where Srinagar is located,
are mostly Muslims and speak Urdu and Kashmiri.
The Jammu to Srinagar highway is two-lane and poorly lit. Built into the
sides of a cliff, the road has a river running below. On the opposite side, lights
twinkle in the distance. They are clusters of a few small towns, set into the
sides of a mountain range opposite the highway.
Several well-lit tunnels built through the mountains cut the commute time
between the two major state cities. These include Asia’s second largest 9.2
kilometre Chenani-Nashri or Patnitop and the 2.5 kilometre Jawahar tunnel.
Though pleasantly cool in Jammu, temperatures dropped to sub-freezing
level as we approached Srinagar. Unfortunately, our bus did not have a heater,
and we literally shivered! Yet, as dawn beckoned, the sights of snow-covered
grounds appeared lovely, and the roadside homes were quite distinct. The
Bollywood flick Haider, filmed in and near Srinagar, gives one a good idea of
the architecture.
DHAKA TRIBUNE | SATURDAY, APRIL 14, 2018 ARTS & LETTERS
Dal Lake PHOTOS: PEARL MATTHEW
We arrived early on November 27 and checked into our hotel, a modest
building and home owned by Irshad. Tourism is the main income source for
most Kashmiris in Srinagar and smaller tourist towns, as they rent out their
homes as local hotels to visitors. Several locals also sell apples, oranges and
other fruits on pull-carts, or warm winter clothes to tourists. The clothing
items include the phiren, a long flowing coat commonly used by Kashmiris.
Under the phiren, they carry a kangri, or a pot of hot charcoals, to keep warm.
After breakfast, we headed to Dal Lake to ride the shikara, a local wooden
boat. Unfortunately, my mother opted to stay at the hotel as the freezing
temperature had raised her blood pressure. Riding a shikara, we traversed
the length and curves of Dal Lake and enjoyed its sights, including its floating
garden and lakeside shops. Soon we were besieged by boat salesmen, selling
everything from local-made jewellery, saffron and other spices, fruits, and
even a modelling opportunity involving dressing up in traditional Kashimiri
garb and having photos snapped. One gentleman cooked kebabs and rolls on
his boat, which became our late lunch.
Though the group planned to visit the Mughal Garden afterward, I left early
with some of my boat-mates to check on my mother. En route, we passed a
local park awash in autumn reds and yellows. Forget the typical tourist site! I
headed there after ensuring my mother was all right.
The next day, after breakfast, we travelled to Gulmarg (meadow of flowers)
for a day trip. The hill station and town is located in the Pirpanjal range of the
western Himalayas. Though glowing with wild flowers in late spring and sum
Locals in the Jammu area of the state are Hindus
on the eastern side and speak Hindi, Punjabi,
and Dogri. Meanwhile, residents on the western
side, in the Vale of Kashmir, are mostly Muslims
and speak Urdu and Kashmiri
Sayeeda T
Ahmad is a poet
and nonfiction
writer. Her debut
poetry collection,
Across Oceans,
was published
by Bengal Lights
Books.
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