UJ #14 - Qhapac Ñan
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THE GREAT INCA TRAIL<br />
QHAPAQ ÑAN<br />
REDISCOVERING THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE INCAS<br />
Interview with François Morin,<br />
Business Development Director of LimaTours<br />
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2
3
CURRENT ISSUES / 8<br />
QHAPAQ ÑAN A LIVING LEGACY / 14<br />
IN MEMORIAM / 12<br />
QHAPAQ ÑAN:<br />
MAP OF THE<br />
ANDEAN ROAD<br />
SYSTEM / 17<br />
INFOGRAPHIC<br />
ANCESTRAL<br />
TREASURES / 22<br />
INDEX<br />
REDISCOVERING THE<br />
FOOTSTEPS OF<br />
THE INCAS / 24<br />
MAP OF THE<br />
HUANUCO PAMPA ROUTE / 38<br />
INTERVIEW TO FRANÇOIS MORIN / 40<br />
Business Development Director of LimaTours
This edition of Ultimate<br />
Journeys - Travel in Peru was<br />
produced by LimaTours’<br />
marketing team.<br />
<strong>UJ</strong> GENERAL DIRECTOR<br />
Gerardo Sugay<br />
CONTENT DIRECTOR<br />
Gerardo Sugay<br />
Ana Paula Albín<br />
Ximena Arrieta<br />
SEARCHING FOR THE LEGACY FAR FROM THE ASPHALT / 48<br />
INFOGRAPHIC<br />
PERU’S GREAT<br />
RICHES / 60<br />
GENERAL EDITOR<br />
Ximena Arrieta<br />
GENERAL COORDINATOR<br />
Karla Huertas<br />
ART DIRECTOR<br />
LimaTours<br />
GRAPHIC DESIGN<br />
Sergio Salazar<br />
QHAPAQ CAMP<br />
MAP / 76<br />
THE ROAD OF ALL OF US / 62<br />
ILLUSTRATIONS<br />
Juan Diego León<br />
INFOGRAPHICS<br />
LimaTours<br />
EDITORIAL STAFF<br />
Ximena Arrieta<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS<br />
Archivo LimaTours<br />
Archivo KM Cero<br />
Archivo Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> - Sede<br />
Nacional<br />
Kevin Floerke<br />
Sergio Salazar<br />
Ximena Arrieta<br />
Ana Paula Albín<br />
INTERVIEW TO NICK STANZIANO<br />
AND JOHN LEIVERS / 78<br />
CALENDAR / 82<br />
COVER PAGE PHOTO CREDIT<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s<br />
National Office
EDITORIAL<br />
DEAR READER:<br />
At LimaTours, we believe that, to offer unforgettable memories, it is necessary to go to the roots of<br />
our country, experiencing and researching it in depth. For this reason, in this new edition of Ultimate<br />
Journeys – Travel in Peru, we want to take you to the past in a memorable visit to our country along a path<br />
of exuberant richness and traditions that have remained alive for more than 500 years.<br />
Tour the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> with us, the backbone of the Inca Empire (Tahuantinsuyo). This road system<br />
covers a large part of South America and is considered one of the most important engineering works in<br />
the world, both for the quality of its construction and the rugged geography that surrounds it.<br />
This issue of Ultimate Journeys – Travel in Peru will immerse you in the world of this thousand-year-old<br />
culture and its legacy, which lasts until today. Join ‘The Great Inca Trail’ expedition of which LimaTours is<br />
an integral part, in what used to be its 3,200-km trek along the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>, and discover the treasures<br />
it protects.<br />
Embark on a trip by the communities located in deepest Peru, where the Inca Trail is still used, and<br />
explore their relationship with this wonder. Also learn about the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>’s integrating capacity<br />
and the work performed to include it on the UNESCO World Heritage List, a historical candidacy that<br />
required the participation of the six countries that share it.<br />
Be blown away by Peru’s mystical aspect that stands out for its heritage and makes us proud of its<br />
customs that transform us into a multicultural country.<br />
Happy reading and good learning!<br />
Your friends at LimaTours
PROUD<br />
INNOVATORS FOR<br />
PERU´S DEVELOPMENT<br />
LimaTours has won the Business Creativity Award five<br />
times for the most innovative proposals. We have been<br />
selected among thousands of companies with extensive<br />
experience and national renown.<br />
WINNING PROJECTS<br />
2005 - Peru Collection<br />
2006 - Wings Over Peru<br />
2008 - Peru Gourmet<br />
2014 - Ultimate Journeys<br />
2017 - Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project<br />
an expedition along the Great<br />
Inca Trail, which aims to renew<br />
its value and collaborate with<br />
the development of Andean<br />
communities.
CURRENT ISSUES<br />
Maido restaurant was placed first on the list<br />
of the fifty best restaurants in the region at<br />
the fifth edition of Latin America’s 50 best<br />
restaurants held in Bogota, Colombia. The<br />
establishment managed by Chef Mitsuharu<br />
Tsumura took the first place from Central led<br />
CURRENT ISSUES<br />
by Virgilio Martinez, which topped the ranking<br />
for three consecutive years and was placed<br />
second now. Astrid y Gaston restaurant also<br />
ranked among the Top 10 of the event as<br />
number 7.<br />
Maido<br />
Maido<br />
Central<br />
Restaurante Central<br />
This is the first time that a Peruvian museum has<br />
been included among the 25 best museums in<br />
the world at the Traveller’s Choice Awards on<br />
TripAdvisor’s web platform. The Larco Museum<br />
won the 22nd place on the ranking with<br />
more than 8,000 comments. Other national<br />
attractions considered were Machu Picchu (8th<br />
place in the category of ‘Most popular places’)<br />
and Cusco (25th place in the category of ‘Most<br />
popular destinations’).<br />
Museo Larco<br />
MAIDO IS THE BEST<br />
RESTAURANT IN LATIN<br />
AMERICA<br />
LARCO MUSEUM,<br />
THE TRAVELERS’<br />
FAVORITE<br />
LimaTours<br />
Astrid y Gaston<br />
Maido<br />
Maido<br />
Astrid y Gastón<br />
Maido<br />
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LimaTours<br />
PROMPERU LAUNCHES A<br />
NEW CAMPAIGN<br />
LimaTours<br />
The Commission for the Promotion of<br />
Peruvian Exports and Tourism (PromPeru)<br />
presented its most recent campaign at the<br />
World Travel Market in London under the<br />
slogan “Peru, the richest country in the<br />
world.” This campaign aims to attract foreign<br />
audiences to learn about the incomparable<br />
riches the country has to offer in terms of<br />
culture, nature, gastronomy and adventure.<br />
DISCOVER THE<br />
PERUVIAN RAINFOREST<br />
ON THE “AMAZON STAR”<br />
The “Amazon Star” offers a dream journey. The<br />
cruise will get its crew as close to nature as never<br />
before. Sailing away from Iquitos, the route will<br />
cruise the Amazon, Marañon and Ucayali rivers,<br />
where the guests will travel on 15 luxury cabins with<br />
private balcony. The five- and seven-day programs<br />
include full board, kayak and paddle, night time<br />
explorations in the jungle and sighting of species<br />
such as the pygmy marmoset and the pink dolphin.<br />
Departures start in January 2018.<br />
LimaTours<br />
9
CURRENT ISSUES<br />
Hotel Inkaterra La Casona<br />
Hotel<br />
Inkaterra<br />
La Casona<br />
PERUVIAN HOTELS<br />
RANK AMONG THE<br />
BEST IN THE WORLD<br />
Ten other hotels were recognized by the readers<br />
of Condé Nast magazine at the Readers’ Choice<br />
Awards 2017. In the category of Best Hotel in South<br />
America stood out Inkaterra La Casona - Cusco (2nd<br />
place), Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel – Aguas<br />
Calientes (3rd place), Country Club Lima Hotel (9th<br />
place), Belmond Hotel Monasterio - Cusco (10th<br />
place), Palacio del Inka Luxury Collection - Cusco<br />
(12th place), Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel – Aguas<br />
Calientes (14th place), JW Marriot El Convento<br />
Cusco (20th place), Belmond Miraflores Park - Lima<br />
(21st place), JW Marriott Hotel - Lima (24thplace)<br />
and Belmond Sanctuary Lodge -Machu Picchu<br />
(25th place).<br />
The Travel and Leisure magazine included the<br />
Belmond Palacio Nazarenas and Tambo del Inka,<br />
a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, on its list of the<br />
best 100 hotels in 2017. Both lodgings are located<br />
in Cusco and ranked 67th and 90th, respectively.<br />
The selected hotels are evaluated by the readers<br />
of the publication based on their location, services,<br />
food, facilities and general value.<br />
Hotel Inkaterra Machu<br />
Picchu Pueblo<br />
Hotel Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo<br />
Belmond Hotel Monasterio<br />
Hotel Country Club de Lima<br />
Hotel Country Club de Lima<br />
Belmond Hotel Monasterio<br />
10
Shutterstock<br />
THE HUACACHINA<br />
OASIS, AN IMPRESSIVE<br />
DESTINATION<br />
The British newspaper The Telegraph highlighted<br />
the great attractions offered by the Huacachina<br />
Oasis. “Known among tourists as a sandboarding<br />
destination, this oasis is worth a visit for its location<br />
alone, hidden among golden dunes in the desert<br />
outside Ica.” This was the only Latin American<br />
destination mentioned on the list of “21 of the<br />
world’s most dramatic villages”, selected for its<br />
lodgings and activities such as buggy rides and<br />
paragliding.<br />
LimaTours<br />
11
IN MEMORIAM<br />
CARLOS ALBERTO IN THE HEART OF LIMATOURS<br />
The loss of Carlos Alberto Arrarte, Chairman of the Board of<br />
LimaTours, leaves a great sadness for all of us who worked<br />
alongside him. Some people get the sympathy of others quickly,<br />
and Carlos was one of them, always leaving a lesson in hard work<br />
and conviction that we try to follow day by day.<br />
As the son of our founder, Eduardo R. Arrarte, tourism was part<br />
of Carlos Alberto’s life from the time he was a little boy. His father<br />
instilled in him and his siblings the idea of continuing with the<br />
family business, and so he did. From 1980 to 1991, after finishing<br />
his studies at the University of Pennsylvania, Carlos held the<br />
position of LimaTours’ Receptive Tourism Manager in Lima, and<br />
later, in Miami.<br />
In 1991, Carlos left LimaTours, joining Hertz Rent a Car as the<br />
Director of Marketing for Latin America and The Caribbean based<br />
in Miami. Carlos returned to LimaTours as General Manager<br />
1997, and remained at the helm of the company until 2013,<br />
when LimaTours was sold to TUI Travel PLC and he was named<br />
Chairman of the Board. Additionally, he assumed the presidency<br />
of Expediciones Amazonicas in 2014.<br />
Carlos was a long time member of ASTA the American Society of<br />
Travel Agents (ASTA), founder president of the South American<br />
Travel Association (SATA) and member of the United States Tour<br />
Operators Association (USTOA). He was a director of the Peruvian<br />
Association of Receptive Tourism Operators (APOTUR) from 1998<br />
to 2004; executive director and vice-president of the National<br />
Tourism Camera (CANATUR) from 2000 to 2004. Carlos was a<br />
member of the board of directors at TURPERU from 1997 to 2010.<br />
He also was a leader in not-for-profit tourism development. He<br />
was the founder and president of the LimaTours Foundation, as<br />
well as Turismo Cuida, the Peruvian chapter of Tourism Cares.<br />
Carlos also was a board member of the Sustainable Preservation<br />
Initiative (SPI) and had recently been named Peru’s representative<br />
on the Global Sustainable Tourism Council.<br />
Innovation was one of the characteristics of Carlos Alberto’s<br />
work, as he developed unique travel concepts that built on the<br />
richness of our country to create unforgettable experiences.<br />
Under his management, LimaTours was a pioneer in Amazon<br />
cruises, building our own ship: The Amazon Star. He also created<br />
the concept of the Peru Collection, a luxury tourism program that<br />
focuses on bespoke itineraries designed around gastronomy,<br />
adventure tourism and health and wellness activities. Plan Wallata,<br />
Carlos’s ongoing major project, will turn the ancient Andean village<br />
of Ollantaytambo, the jumping off point for a trip to Machu Picchu,<br />
into a living Inca town, bringing back traditional economic activity<br />
and preserving Ollanta’s rich cultural heritage.<br />
As a renowned tourism executive in Peru, Carlos was an industry<br />
leader in sustainable growth. He understood that the travel<br />
industry is intimately tied to the communities it touches, and<br />
that sustainable growth is based on thoughtful development in<br />
tourism-rich areas. He also was passionate about protecting the<br />
environment and believed responsible travel was key to longterm<br />
business success. To help support this vision, Carlos created<br />
the LimaTours Foundation, a not-for-profit arm of LimaTours<br />
dedicated to managing and promoting the company’s social<br />
responsibility work with projects in villages such as Huilloc, where<br />
the Foundation helped the community develop a village home<br />
stay program; and the Plan Wallata, which includes a focus on<br />
tourism development in the villages of the Sacred Valley in Cusco.<br />
Thanks to these projects, thousands of people who live in Huilloc<br />
and the many villages in the Ollantaytambo district are slowly<br />
strengthening their national identity and improving their quality of<br />
life through sustainable tourism.<br />
Carlos Alberto loved Peru and he was proud of sharing that<br />
passion with all who had the chance to meet him. His commitment<br />
and dedication were a constant beacon of his leadership and open<br />
relationship with his LimaTours’ family. Carlos was dedicated to<br />
“Lito” – as LimaTours is called by insiders- and believed the strength<br />
of the business was built on ensuring the well-being of each and<br />
every employee. His example inspires us to offer the best possible<br />
experiences to each LimaTours passenger.<br />
In LimaTours, we are honored to have shared time with Carlos<br />
Alberto and learned so many things from him. We are glad to<br />
know that, like us, many other people around the world were<br />
able to enjoy his good humor, his vocation for service and, most<br />
importantly, his passion for Peru.<br />
12
13
14<br />
QHAPAQ ÑAN: A LIVING LEGACY
QHAPAQ<br />
ÑAN<br />
A LIVING LEGACY<br />
A ROAD SYSTEM OF<br />
NEARLY 60,000 KM<br />
WAS THE BACKBONE OF<br />
THE TAHUANTINSUYO,<br />
AN INCA JEWEL THAT<br />
STILL STANDS AFTER<br />
500 YEARS. THE<br />
NATURAL BEAUTY<br />
AND MAGNIFICENT<br />
ENGINEERING WORKS<br />
MAKE THE QHAPAQ<br />
ÑAN A UNIQUE LEGACY<br />
THAT WAS LISTED AS<br />
A WORLD HERITAGE<br />
SITE BY UNESCO,<br />
BECOMING A SOURCE<br />
OF PRIDE FOR THE<br />
SIX COUNTRIES THAT<br />
CURRENTLY SHARE IT.<br />
Christian Declercq / KM Cero<br />
The Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong><br />
blends in with<br />
the geography<br />
of the Peruvian<br />
highlands.<br />
15
QHAPAQ ÑAN: A LIVING LEGACY<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
Peru’s richness is noted across its territory:<br />
breathtaking landscapes, archaeological<br />
complexes that take you to an impressive past or<br />
cultural expressions such as dances and rituals<br />
that pass on from generation to generation<br />
and strengthen the connection with our roots.<br />
With more than one million square kilometers<br />
of deserts, mountains and forests, is there any<br />
way of connecting each corner maintaining the<br />
authenticity of nature and the population?<br />
LimaTours<br />
This is not a modern question; it was also an<br />
important issue for ancient Peruvians such as<br />
the Incas. Given the ongoing expansion of the<br />
Tahuantinsuyo, the rulers had to find a way of<br />
uniting it and creating a feeling of belonging in<br />
the new citizens, and of showing their power.<br />
They decided to create a road system, not only<br />
to connect the most remote towns with Cusco,<br />
but also to use it for political, military and social<br />
purposes. This is the origin of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>,<br />
the ‘Royal Road’.<br />
The Longitudinal Coastal Highway between<br />
the Casma and Huarmey valleys (Ancash).<br />
The Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> is considered one of the most<br />
impressive engineering works in history. It is<br />
composed of nearly 60,000 km of roads that<br />
traversed the entire empire from what is currently<br />
Colombia to Chile, crossing Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia<br />
and Argentina. Four routes beginning from<br />
the Huak’aypata square – currently the Cusco<br />
Main Square - went to the regions or suyos:<br />
Chinchaysuyo (north), Collasuyo (south), Antisuyo<br />
(east) and Contisuyo (west).<br />
To make the most of the territory and facilitate<br />
the organization along the entire road network,<br />
the Incas divided it into sections: the Longitudinal<br />
Highland Highway, the Longitudinal Coastal<br />
Highway, and the transversal and penetration<br />
roads. Places to shelter and feed the travelers<br />
were built on each road, and sacred spaces were<br />
determined by the presence of snow-capped<br />
peaks or lagoons.<br />
Cusco was the center of<br />
the empire, and today it is<br />
a combination of the Inca<br />
and Colonial heritage.<br />
16
Source: Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
PASTO<br />
COLOMBIA<br />
ECUADOR<br />
QUITO<br />
60 000 km<br />
of extension had the<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>.<br />
Huaca Cabeza<br />
de Vaca<br />
Ingapirca<br />
CUENCA<br />
PERU<br />
780 km and<br />
291 associated<br />
archaeological sites have<br />
Aypate<br />
Caxas o Baños<br />
del Inca<br />
been declared World<br />
Heritage by UNESCO.<br />
Tucume<br />
CAJAMARCA<br />
Cochabamba<br />
BRASIL<br />
250 km and<br />
82 of those associated<br />
Marcahuamachuco<br />
sites are located in Peru.<br />
Chan Chan<br />
Huanuco Pampa<br />
PACIFIC<br />
OCEAN<br />
LIMA<br />
Pachacamac<br />
Inkawasi de Lunahuana<br />
Tambo<br />
Colorado<br />
Huanacaure<br />
Pumpu<br />
Huaycan de Cieneguilla<br />
Hatun Xauxa<br />
VILCASHUAMAN<br />
Machu Picchu<br />
Huaytara<br />
CUSCO<br />
Vilcashuaman<br />
Quebrada<br />
de la Vaca<br />
Sillustani<br />
Hatun Colla<br />
Chucuito<br />
LAGO<br />
TITICACA<br />
LA PAZ<br />
BOLIVIA<br />
PARIA<br />
ANDEAN<br />
ROAD<br />
SYSTEM<br />
CHILE<br />
CATARPO<br />
Tilcara<br />
LA PAYA<br />
MAP KEY<br />
Longitudinal Highways<br />
REGIONS OF TAHUANTINSUYO<br />
Pucara de<br />
Andagala<br />
Transversal roads<br />
Chinchaysuyo<br />
Comprehensive projects<br />
Archaeological sites<br />
Antisuyo<br />
Contisuyo<br />
Chilecito<br />
ARGENTINA<br />
Collasuyo<br />
Ranchillos<br />
SANTIAGO<br />
TALCA
QHAPAQ ÑAN: A LIVING LEGACY<br />
The Longitudinal Highland Highway, the original<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>, was the core axis of the entire<br />
route and covered from the Chinchaysuyo to the<br />
Collasuyo, crossing the territory at the foot of the<br />
Andean Mountain Range. The stretch covered<br />
approximately 5,658 km from the current city of<br />
Quito to Santiago de Chile with a perfectly built<br />
road that reached a maximum width of 18m. The<br />
penetration roads to the jungle, built to adapt to<br />
the terrain and humidity of the region, stemmed<br />
from this road.<br />
Kevin Floerke<br />
Compared to the winding and challenging<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>, the Longitudinal Coastal Highway<br />
was characterized by its straightness along the<br />
coastal valleys and deserts. It covered an area of<br />
3,943 km, also from Ecuador to Chile. This artery<br />
connected with its counterpart in the highlands<br />
through transversal roads, which ran from west<br />
to east between mountains and ravines, following<br />
the course of the valleys.<br />
Why did this network impress the Spaniards upon<br />
their arrival in Peru and continues to astonish<br />
the world? We only have to imagine ourselves<br />
standing in front of an impressive Apu, such<br />
as Mount Pariacaca, on a cobbled road with<br />
stairways to climb the mountains and suspension<br />
bridges woven with vegetable fibers to cross the<br />
rivers. We have to make a mental tour of the<br />
route, finding tambos used to lodge the pilgrims,<br />
ushnus from where the Inca thanked the gods and<br />
administrative centers magnificently built amidst<br />
one of the most rugged geographies on the planet.<br />
Inca structures such as the Soledad<br />
de Tambo ushnu (Ancash) are found<br />
along the trail.<br />
The greatness of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> has not been<br />
left in the past, as a limited archaeological site.<br />
Its very essence of being a road that serves the<br />
community prevails until today. For this reason, it<br />
is regarded as a living heritage used by tenths of<br />
residents of the Peruvian highlands as their only<br />
means of communication with other towns and<br />
cities. These areas broaden the experience of<br />
following into the footsteps of the Incas with their<br />
customs, turning the tour into a cultural route that<br />
merges a masterpiece of Inca construction with<br />
traditions that have been preserved for more than<br />
500 years.<br />
18
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
The Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> became a UNESCO World<br />
Heritage Site since 2014, after a joint work<br />
performed by the six countries that share it:<br />
Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and<br />
Chile. This candidacy made history, as this was the<br />
first time that several nations teamed up to work<br />
and made a joint submission. Once listed, all the<br />
countries committed to protect the road system<br />
and continue to carry out a joint work to preserve<br />
it for future generations.<br />
The scenic beauty that surrounds it, the<br />
construction techniques it includes and the<br />
cultural expressions that originated around it turn<br />
the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> into a jewel that is Inca as well as<br />
modern and does not stop astonishing the locals<br />
and visitors alike.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
This stone bridge in Huarautambo<br />
(Cerro de Pasco) is an example of<br />
the Inca construction technology.<br />
WHAT IS A CULTURAL ROUTE?<br />
ACCORDING TO THE INTERNATIONAL<br />
COUNCIL ON MONUMENTS AND SITES<br />
(ICOMOS), ‘CULTURAL ROUTES’ ARE<br />
THE MEANS OF COMMUNICATION THAT<br />
HAVE THEIR OWN SPECIFIC DYNAMICS<br />
AND HISTORIC FUNCTIONALITY. THE<br />
STAND OUT CHARACTERISTICS OF THE<br />
INCA TRAIL INCLUDE THE EXCHANGE<br />
BETWEEN PEOPLES AND COUNTRIES,<br />
THE AMALGAMATION OF CULTURES<br />
ALONG THE ENTIRE ROUTE AND THE<br />
CREATION OF A DYNAMIC SYSTEM<br />
THAT MERGES HISTORY WITH THE<br />
ASSET, REPRESENTED BY THE USE IT<br />
CURRENTLY HAS.<br />
Well preserved steps in<br />
the Escalerayoc sector in<br />
Yauyos (Lima).<br />
19
QHAPAQ ÑAN: A LIVING LEGACY<br />
SIX COUNTRIES, ONE LEGACY<br />
From the arid deserts to the lush forest, the<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> connected a huge and rich territory.<br />
The listing of a World Heritage Site by<br />
UNESCO fills our whole nation with pride.<br />
In the case of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>, this<br />
emotion is shared by several countries<br />
after carrying out a thorough work of<br />
almost ten years until its official listing on<br />
June 21, 2014.<br />
The importance of this listing goes beyond<br />
all the benefits that recognition involves.<br />
The Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> has become a landmark<br />
in the history of humanity once again, as<br />
it is the first time that six republics (Peru,<br />
Colombia, Ecuador, Bolivia, Argentina and<br />
Chile) submit a joint candidacy for a World<br />
Heritage Site. The Andean Road System<br />
was not only able to connect peoples in<br />
the Tahuantinsuyo; it also did it again 500<br />
years later with the same effectiveness.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
The Process<br />
In 2001, Peru decided to register the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> on UNESCO’s<br />
Tentative List of World Heritage Sites. “At that time, there was a need<br />
to reconnect the country, to reconcile parts of Peru that had come into<br />
conflict,” said Giancarlo Marcone, Director of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s<br />
National Office of the Ministry of Culture.<br />
The great material and intangible cultural value of the road network, its<br />
integrating function and its current use by the Andean communities<br />
caught the attention of the other countries, which opted for joining the<br />
Peruvian initiative in 2003. In February 2013, the final file jointly worked<br />
was submitted to the UNESCO World Heritage Center, presenting the<br />
status of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> that met the ‘Exceptional Universal Value<br />
Criteria’ required by the organization.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
Dances and traditions mark the unique relationship<br />
of the population with the trail across South America.<br />
20
The Peru-Bolivia Binational Trek is an example<br />
of the unity generated by the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
What benefits is receiving each country?<br />
The most important benefit is the international<br />
positioning that increases the flow of visitors and is<br />
essential for the economic and social development of<br />
the nearby areas. This will allow boosting the tourist<br />
potential of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> in areas outside the<br />
traditional Cusco route.<br />
The countries with listed heritage sites belong to<br />
a global community concerned about maintaining<br />
these assets, they gain access to the World Heritage<br />
Fund that provides economic support to remediate<br />
damages caused by natural disasters and to the signing<br />
of international agreements for the conservation and<br />
protection of the sites.<br />
Finally, a mention of this type involves raising further<br />
awareness in the public in favor of the heritage<br />
and, consequently, the commitment of government<br />
authorities and communities to protect their legacy<br />
and find forms of sustainable development that<br />
benefit them.<br />
The Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> today<br />
Rather than perceiving it as a topic of the past, the Qhapaq<br />
<strong>Ñan</strong> is the tool to talk about a “new history” without borders,<br />
which highlights the diversity among the six countries<br />
but does not prevent them from coexisting in the same<br />
territory. The meaning of this trail goes beyond being a<br />
mere road that connects the Tahuantinsuyo, but it has a<br />
great transformational and unifying potential.<br />
Its functional nature and the fact that it continues to be<br />
currently used as a means of communications, allows<br />
raising awareness of a public space that can be enjoyed<br />
and used by the citizens. “The Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> is not really<br />
about the Incas, but about the present. We can use it to<br />
create stories of who we are today, what is our relationship<br />
with the people and how we allow them to enjoy a heritage<br />
that belongs to all of us,” highlighted Marcone.<br />
21
THE QHAPAQ ÑAN<br />
AND ITS ANCESTRAL TREASURES<br />
THE QHAPAQ ÑAN IS NOT ONLY A ROAD; IT IS A ROUTE FULL OF MEANINGS. EACH<br />
CONSTRUCTION, NATURAL ATTRACTION OR TOWN HAS A STORY THAT GIVES NEW VALUE TO<br />
THE TOUR AND WE CAN STILL APPRECIATE IT ALTHOUGH MORE THAN 500 YEARS HAVE<br />
ELAPSED SINCE THE INCA EMPIRE WAS AT ITS HEIGHT.<br />
SNOW-CAPPED PEAKS<br />
The Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> extends along the Andes<br />
Mountain Range and it usually approaches<br />
the impressive snow-capped peaks (Apus),<br />
the deities worshipped by the Incas.<br />
ADMINISTRATIVE CENTERS<br />
The rulers controlled the population and led<br />
the use of the resources in the area from<br />
these centers. Its construction included<br />
colcas to store food, ceremonial ushnus and<br />
kallankas to lodge the authorities.<br />
COMMUNITIES<br />
Hundreds of people and villages<br />
are located in neighboring areas<br />
of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> or are crossed<br />
by it. For the local residents, the<br />
road continues to be their main<br />
means of communication with<br />
other areas.<br />
CHASQUIWASI<br />
These were the houses of the chasquis<br />
(messengers), located along the road. They<br />
remained there waiting for the arrival of their<br />
colleague to take over the errand and run to the<br />
next shelter.<br />
THE QHAPAQ ÑAN<br />
The road was made of cobblestones, flanked by<br />
walls that bounded it or were used for containment<br />
and prevention of landslides on the stretches built<br />
22<br />
on the mountains.<br />
Source:<br />
Guía de Identificación y Registro del Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> (Guide for the Identification and Registration of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>). Ministry of Culture
COLCAS<br />
Facilities used to store food, weapons<br />
and clothes. They were built at the<br />
high part of the mountains to be at an<br />
appropriate temperature and keep<br />
the food in good condition.<br />
TAMBOS<br />
Facilities used as lodging and storage<br />
along the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>, located at 15<br />
and 20 km from each other. The<br />
same as the administrative centers,<br />
some large tambos had ushnus,<br />
kallankas and squares.<br />
BRIDGES<br />
Depending on the geographic features, wood,<br />
stone or suspension bridges were used. The<br />
latter, made with braided natural fibers, are the<br />
most impressive ones. The Q’eswachaka Bridge<br />
in Cusco is the only one that remains today.<br />
STAIRWAYS<br />
The steep slopes of the Andes required<br />
special measures. Stone steps grouped<br />
in sections and separated by resting<br />
platforms facilitated the ascent to the<br />
mountains.<br />
APACHETAS<br />
Groups of stones piled by<br />
wayfarers on the side of the roads<br />
or on mountain passes as offerings<br />
to the gods to request protection<br />
and strength during their trip.<br />
23
24<br />
REDISCOVERING THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE INCAS
REDISCOVERING<br />
THE<br />
FOOTSTEPS<br />
OF THE<br />
INCAS<br />
FOR FIVE MONTHS,<br />
‘THE GREAT INCA<br />
TRAIL’ EXPEDITION<br />
TOURED A STRETCH<br />
OF THE QHAPAQ<br />
ÑAN, THE MAIN<br />
ARTERY OF THE<br />
ROAD SYSTEM THAT<br />
CONNECTED THE<br />
TAHUANTINSUYO. AS<br />
A PARTNER IN THIS<br />
PROJECT, LIMATOURS<br />
ACCOMPANIED THE<br />
TREKKERS ACROSS<br />
THIS LEGENDARY<br />
ROUTE SURROUNDED<br />
BY AMAZING<br />
LANDSCAPES<br />
STEEPED IN HISTORY.<br />
Christian Declercq / KM Cero<br />
Inca wall in the<br />
Huanuco Pampa<br />
archaeological<br />
site, an important<br />
administrative center<br />
of the Tahuantinsuyo.<br />
25
REDISCOVERING THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE INCAS<br />
Walking is a daily activity we take for granted, but<br />
when we are used to paved city roads we forget<br />
the huge pleasure of going from one place to<br />
another, moving the legs, perceiving the wind and<br />
feeling free.<br />
Let us take a mental journey to the White<br />
Mountain Range of the Andes. The sky changed<br />
from a gray to a luminous sky blue color, the dark<br />
sidewalks became a cobblestone road among the<br />
rugged mountains, cars are replaced by llamas<br />
and buildings are impressive structures made of<br />
rock. That was the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> more than 500<br />
years ago, when the Tahuantinsuyo at its height<br />
was connected by this incredible road network.<br />
In the high Andean areas, the Great Inca Trail<br />
maintains its traditional mystique: the connection<br />
with nature and the service to the community. A<br />
team of adventure seekers were willing to travel<br />
3,200 km along it for five months, from Tomebamba<br />
(Ecuador) to Cusco (Peru), to rediscover this Inca<br />
heritage, give it new value and revive the footsteps<br />
of the ancient inhabitants of the empire.<br />
But it is not worth conveying such a fascinating<br />
story from the comfort of a desk. As a partner,<br />
LimaTours was present from the beginning, taking<br />
care of the logistics for ‘The Great Inca Trail’, but it<br />
was time to wear the boots, carry the backpacks<br />
and experience the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> together with the<br />
expeditionary group.<br />
Rodrigo Cabrera / KM Cero<br />
Imposing<br />
landscapes<br />
such as this<br />
accompanied<br />
the members<br />
of the<br />
expedition.<br />
26
DAY 1<br />
PREPARING<br />
THE BODY<br />
Llamas drawing the attention<br />
of adults and children.<br />
We reached the Cajay community (Ancash) to<br />
meet the members of the expedition. Our day 1<br />
was day 73 for them, and the positive attitude of<br />
the residents energized us in those first steps of<br />
the 75 km we had ahead of us.<br />
The river flowed like music while we walked down<br />
the road to Pomachaca, a small town where the<br />
Inca trail began. As we would see along the route,<br />
stretches of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> have disappeared,<br />
either due to the construction of other roads or<br />
lack of conservation.<br />
The Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> received us with amazing<br />
stairways that got lost behind the mountain.<br />
This hard test implied fighting heat, altitude and<br />
fatigue. If we passed the first exam, we would<br />
be prepared for the other four days of the trek.<br />
Each step was worth it: while we climbed, we<br />
could see beautiful valleys in the distance and we<br />
found ancient Inca settlements in the middle of<br />
the mountain. It was remarkable to see how the<br />
steps seemed to be part of the landscape.<br />
installed. After visiting the Pincos ceremonial<br />
ushnu and enjoying a hearty meal, there is<br />
nothing better than lying on the pasture for a<br />
few minutes and relax under the Milky Way. The<br />
breathtaking starry sky of the Andes accompanied<br />
us every night.<br />
Kevin Floerke<br />
The Andean<br />
pampas made<br />
the trek lighter.<br />
The road to<br />
Huarautambo in<br />
Cerro de Pasco.<br />
We arrived in Castillo, a town with a water<br />
fountain decorated with a chasqui (a messenger<br />
of the Tahuantinsuyo), a symbol of belonging to<br />
the Inca trail. Building back our energy with the<br />
fresh water from the main fountain was a present<br />
of the Apus. The llamas were the great show and<br />
drew the attention of the residents while they<br />
crossed the streets. Watching a large number<br />
of these animals beside a group of gringos<br />
(foreigners) aroused the curiosity, especially in<br />
children.<br />
After a light lunch we continued to ascend to<br />
Soledad de Tambo, where the camp was already<br />
Rodrigo Cabrera / KM Cero<br />
27
The sky of the<br />
Andes gleams<br />
every<br />
28<br />
night with<br />
the shine of<br />
thousands of stars.
Christian Declercq / KM Cero<br />
29
REDISCOVERING THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE INCAS<br />
Ximena Arrieta<br />
After attending an interesting history lesson,<br />
we returned to the walled road on the way to<br />
Quenhuajirca. The landscape changes as we ascend<br />
from 3,000 m.a.s.l., showing how skillfully the Inca<br />
builders adapted to the Andean geography. The<br />
trees begin to disappear, the green pastures are<br />
replaced by ichu and flowers become thorny plants<br />
fit to live in the cold puna region. But not all changes<br />
are pleasant, as the route also shows how the snowcapped<br />
peaks are losing their white summits, as<br />
silent victims of climate change.<br />
Stairways are<br />
common in high<br />
highland areas,<br />
to facilitate<br />
the climbing of<br />
mountains.<br />
DAY 2<br />
THANKING THE<br />
PACHAMAMA<br />
(MOTHER EARTH)<br />
The Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> is almost intact in the high areas.<br />
We ascended to the Wagapunta mountain pass, with<br />
wonderfully preserved steps that bring you back in<br />
time with their loftiness. At the highest point, nearly<br />
4,500 m.a.s.l., an apacheta – a pile of stones with<br />
religious purposes– marks the place to thank the<br />
Pachamama for the opportunity of getting in touch<br />
with nature, far for the city and totally disconnected.<br />
At our destination, we camped at the foot of the<br />
ushnu of the Quenhuajirca tambo. Temperature<br />
Walking with John Leivers, an Australian adventurous<br />
expeditionary, is like walking with a book under the<br />
arm. Aged 65, he is not only able to walk thousands of<br />
kilometers without faltering, but he has a prodigious<br />
memory and remembers every inch of the Qhapaq<br />
<strong>Ñan</strong> he has traveled more than once.<br />
Leaving behind the camp in Soledad de Tambo, John<br />
departed from the trail and it was inevitable not<br />
to follow him. We headed for the colcas located in<br />
the upper part of a deep ravine, the ideal place to<br />
build this type of storages: far from the animals, with<br />
plenty of ventilation and dry air that prevented the<br />
food from spoiling.<br />
30<br />
In some stretches, the road is only bound<br />
by stones, blending in with the landscape.
The apachetas marked the places of<br />
worship along the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>.<br />
Enjoy<br />
the best<br />
images<br />
of the<br />
Qhapaq<br />
<strong>Ñan</strong> on<br />
this video.<br />
“QHAPAQ ÑAN IS NOT ONLY A<br />
ROAD; IT IS ALSO A SYNONYM OF<br />
LIVING CULTURE AND ANCESTRAL<br />
PRACTICES PASSED ON FROM<br />
GENERATION TO GENERATION”.<br />
Kevin Floerke<br />
began to descend, but our friendly neighbors,<br />
the Araujo family, weave woolen garments with a<br />
traditional loom they keep at home, and we could<br />
not help buying a warm poncho to fight the cold. The<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> is not only a road; it is also a synonym<br />
of living culture and ancestral practices passed on<br />
from generation to generation, broadening the<br />
experience of the travelers.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
Christian Declercq / KM Cero<br />
Residents making daily use of<br />
the trail in Huamanin, Huanuco.<br />
31
REDISCOVERING THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE INCAS<br />
A welldeserved<br />
rest after<br />
a day of<br />
intensive<br />
trekking<br />
together<br />
with the<br />
mule drivers.<br />
Christian Declercq / KM Cero<br />
DAY 3<br />
NEAR THE SUN GOD<br />
We bade farewell to the Araujos and set off for<br />
our first stop: Ayash. The landscape filled with<br />
color as we descended to the valley of the river<br />
bearing the same name. “A Sublime town,” said<br />
the leaders of the trekkers, John and Nick, a<br />
singular way of describing towns with shops that<br />
sell extra goodies.<br />
Ascents never seemed to end on our journey<br />
along the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>, but the mule drivers kept<br />
us company. This cheerful group of men led by the<br />
chef, Rolando, made our trek more bearable, as<br />
tents were put up and food was ready each time<br />
we arrived at a new camp. Their contagious good<br />
humor and high spirits helped us overcome the<br />
ascent on an amazingly well preserved road.<br />
We left Ancash at 4,500 m.a.s.l. and entered the<br />
department of Huanuco. The camp awaited us<br />
installed, surrounded by rock formations and a<br />
stream. After a three-day trek, it was fantastic to<br />
soak the feet in the water to relax and rest. At<br />
night, the stars seemed to shine more intensely<br />
than ever.<br />
32
DAY 4<br />
BREATHLESS<br />
We knew that the day 4 would be the longest one,<br />
with five kilometers more than we usually covered<br />
in seven hours, but we did not anticipate the<br />
surprises the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> had in store for us.<br />
Kevin Floerke<br />
Wild<br />
rabbits<br />
have taken<br />
over Tambo<br />
Grande, on<br />
the way to<br />
Huanuco<br />
Pampa.<br />
The first one was Tambo Grande, an Inca<br />
construction that currently is a livestock pen. John<br />
referred to it many times as ‘Tambo conejo’ (‘Tambo<br />
rabbit’), but we did not understand very well why<br />
until we arrived: tenths of these animals appeared<br />
among the stones and ran everywhere when they<br />
heard our footsteps. A white one, looking very<br />
similar to that in the Alice in Wonderland tale, hid<br />
in a deep hole.<br />
The second surprise came next. The small stream<br />
we found the day before has led us to the Taparaco<br />
River, creating a valley that seems to have been<br />
taken out of a painting. Beautiful waterfalls and<br />
splendid queñua trees run parallel to the Qhapaq<br />
<strong>Ñan</strong>, which is not bound by rocks anymore and is<br />
now flanked by impressive walls.<br />
The road continued among pampas and wetlands,<br />
perfectly blending in with the surrounding<br />
landscape. Bound by rocks, it can appear and<br />
disappear at times amidst the vegetation. Breathing<br />
became easier, which meant we are descending to<br />
Taparaco, a village built beside a wrecked Inca site.<br />
The valley continues to San Francisco de Isco, a<br />
small community where we spent the last evening.<br />
We had mixed feelings over dinner: happiness for<br />
what we have already admired and few people are<br />
lucky to appreciate, and the sadness of realizing<br />
that the adventure is coming to an end.<br />
Taparaco<br />
river valley.<br />
The Inca<br />
walls mark<br />
the road<br />
following<br />
its bed.<br />
Kevin Floerke<br />
33
REDISCOVERING THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE INCAS<br />
DAY 5<br />
MISSION<br />
ACCOMPLISHED<br />
Inca trapezoid doors with feline motifs on the<br />
upper part, Huanuco Pampa.<br />
It was encouraging to think that we were only half a<br />
day away from our destination. We started trekking<br />
in the early morning, and met children from several<br />
towns who were using the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> to go to<br />
school. For those people who live in remote areas,<br />
the road continues to be the only way to connect with<br />
each other. They are heirs to a legacy that remains<br />
through time, remaining valid thanks to them.<br />
After an easy descent, we see the asphalt of<br />
the highway once again after almost three days.<br />
The same as at the beginning, calm gives way to<br />
challenges. To reach Huanuco Pampa, the Qhapaq<br />
<strong>Ñan</strong> climbs a ravine with a rugged terrain due to<br />
the landslides caused by rainfall.<br />
We perspired profusely, but we made it. When we<br />
walked to the administrative center, its formidable<br />
ushu emerged surrounded by Apus (mountains).<br />
It is easy to understand why the Inca used this<br />
place as stage for important ceremonies.<br />
Christian Declercq / KM Cero<br />
To close with a perfect end, we were received by<br />
the residents of the Huanuco Pampa village with<br />
their typical dances and a delicious pachamanca<br />
to break the diet.<br />
Some people do not know this huge road system<br />
or believe that the stretch to Machu Picchu is<br />
the only existing trail. Seeing the other face of<br />
the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>, which maintains its ties with<br />
the native community, is a different way of<br />
experiencing it. With no tourists, no pressures, in<br />
connection with the Inca essence of the trail that<br />
has managed to survive until today.<br />
Christian Declercq / KM Cero<br />
Christian Declercq / KM Cero<br />
34<br />
The pyramidal ushnu in Huanuco<br />
Pampa is ten meters high.<br />
Residents of the Huanuco Pampa village performing<br />
the Ruku de Aguamiro dance for the visitors.
HUANUCO PAMPA<br />
THE CENTER OF THE CHINCHAYSUYO<br />
This is the most imposing archaeological site<br />
in the department of Huanuco.<br />
Christian Declercq / KM Cero<br />
Huanuco Pampa is located at a plateau at 3,600 m.a.s.l. It<br />
is one of the most important administrative centers of the<br />
Inca Empire, which marked half of the way between the<br />
current Tomebamba (Quito, Ecuador) and Cusco (Peru), in<br />
the Chinchaysuyo region.<br />
The constructions occupied up to 800 hectares, but only<br />
some buildings impressive enough to show their relevance<br />
in the Tahuantinsuyo have been left due to the neglect and<br />
little conservation work performed in the past. The exquisite<br />
carved stone work is a sign of it.<br />
The ushnu is the main building, a ceremonial platform<br />
on which the Inca performed official rites before the<br />
residents gathered on the main square. The complex also<br />
has kallankas, large rooms used for meetings or to lodge<br />
high officials of the empire; the Inca baths and the colcas<br />
to store products.<br />
Archaeologist Luis Enrique Paredes, Director of the Huanuco<br />
Pampa Comprehensive Project, ensures that this complex<br />
“can be considered one of the most imposing complexes of the<br />
Tahuantinsuyo,” and compares favorably to similar complexes<br />
in Cusco. Due to the enhancement and conservation since<br />
the beginning of the comprehensive project in 2007, the<br />
number of visitors quadrupled reaching 9,900 last year.<br />
The work of the archaeologists goes hand in hand with<br />
that of the community, seeking a common goal: to attract<br />
more interest from the tourists in Huanuco Pampa, both<br />
for its historical importance and for the ancestral traditions<br />
maintained by the neighboring communities.<br />
35
36<br />
Christian Declercq / KM Cero
At a special event held in Huanuco Pampa, LimaTours welcomed the members of the<br />
expedition, reasserting its commitment to communicate the heritage and promote<br />
the development of the communities. Hosëg, the apparel brand, also participated and<br />
donated jackets to 73 children of the neighboring communities.<br />
37
40<br />
INTERVIEW
Sergio Salazar<br />
FRANÇOIS<br />
MORIN<br />
BUSINESS<br />
DEVELOPMENT<br />
DIRECTOR OF<br />
LIMATOURS<br />
THE EXECUTIVE HIGHLIGHTS THE WORK OF LIMATOURS<br />
IN THE PROMOTION OF NEW DESTINATIONS<br />
What has motivated LimaTours to be part of this<br />
expedition?<br />
François: LimaTours has always been interested in projects that<br />
allow communicating, protecting and bringing Peru’s heritage<br />
closer to passengers from all over the world who are curious to<br />
get to know it. However, it is difficult to reach some places due<br />
to the lack of infrastructure, because there are in remote areas<br />
or because the communities are not prepared to receive visitors<br />
due to delicate social issues that are important to consider when<br />
developing a destination. We participated in the project because<br />
the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> is going to put Peru in the eyes of the mainstream<br />
media and lead those people who had never before considered<br />
Peru as an adventure destination, to do so.<br />
There are examples from other countries such as Canada, United<br />
States or Spain that offer this type of long treks. The idea of<br />
creating such a route in South America was very interesting, and<br />
that people begin to use the trail more will also help to preserve it.<br />
41
INTERVIEW<br />
What was our role in the project?<br />
François: LimaTours made a commitment to<br />
the expedition and made the company resources<br />
available to organize the logistics, strengthen the<br />
relations with local authorities and coordinate the<br />
operability during the course of the trek.<br />
Most adventure tourism visitors focus<br />
on Cusco. Do you intend to put northern<br />
Peru on the map with this project?<br />
François: A great part of the volume is in Cusco,<br />
for the tradition it has, the appropriate accessibility<br />
and its availability of hotel infrastructure. The treks<br />
there are interesting for people whose main goal<br />
is getting to know Machu Picchu, because they can<br />
incorporate them to their travel program.<br />
Going to other regions of Peru for adventure<br />
tourism takes more time and that is complicated<br />
for the tourists because it involves spending more<br />
money. Huaraz is an example of an area with a large<br />
number of products, with unparalleled adventure<br />
activities or even more attractions that Cusco itself.<br />
Then, LimaTours would be “pioneering” in<br />
this type of projects in northern Peru?<br />
François: National operators are not very<br />
interested in promoting adventure tourism in the<br />
north, as they do not have the expertise or the<br />
resources to operate routes there. Since we have<br />
strong ties with adventure tourism clients worldwide,<br />
it is essential for us to create our own products in<br />
the north and establish partnerships to operate<br />
them with the quality we are characterized by, to<br />
increase the volume of people who visit that area.<br />
What tourism potential do you see in the<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>?<br />
François: It has an extremely high potential.<br />
Currently, an important number of people are<br />
trekking on the traditional Inca Trail in Cusco, but the<br />
route is so crowded that we have reached a point of<br />
having to restrict its use in order to protect it.<br />
It is interesting for LimaTours to promote other<br />
sections of the road system, to make them more<br />
accessible, to offer a different experience to the<br />
42<br />
Explorers and the LimaTours team during The<br />
Great Inca Trail expedition.<br />
Christian Declercq / KM Cero
KM Cero<br />
passengers and promote tourism in different parts<br />
of Peru. The stretch of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> that crosses<br />
Ancash, on which we are working now, joins the<br />
Inca legacy to the attraction of natural landscapes<br />
that accompany the route. If we add cultural and<br />
experience tourism aspects to this, we will give it an<br />
added value.<br />
This is in addition to the participation of the<br />
communities and the willingness of LimaTours to<br />
continue to invest in the Inca Trail until the goals it<br />
has set have been achieved.<br />
Steps on the Inca<br />
Trail to Machu Picchu<br />
(Cusco).<br />
What is the key factor for the success of<br />
this project?<br />
François: There have been previous plans to<br />
prepare these areas and promote tourism through<br />
partnerships between the communities and local<br />
operators. These plans did not succeed because<br />
an appropriate training program that enabled the<br />
residents to offer logistical services at the required<br />
level was not implemented, and they did not have<br />
the desired exposure either.<br />
We think that we can succeed because the<br />
international operators that have followed the<br />
project and have created expectations in their<br />
markets are interested in this. We have established<br />
partnerships with national operators that allow<br />
for the corresponding coordination, and with local<br />
operators who are better acquainted with the<br />
social and logistical reality of their area.<br />
The LimaTours team with the members of the<br />
Ally Puricheg Entrepreneurship Association<br />
from Huanuco Pampa.<br />
Sergio Salazar<br />
43
INTERVIEW<br />
What makes Peru one of the most<br />
important adventure destinations in the<br />
world?<br />
François: Peru offers a diversity of experiences<br />
that no other South American country has. There<br />
are high mountain routes such as the treks on the<br />
White Mountain Range or Huayhuash, rated as the<br />
most beautiful ones in the world; it has places in<br />
the subtropical forest such as Chachapoyas that<br />
combines natural landscapes with archaeology; it<br />
has a trekking offer, via ferrata (trekking route with<br />
cables), rafting, cycling and even canyoneering in a<br />
crucial point such as Cusco; there is the desert to<br />
carry out motor activities such as riding buggies; it<br />
has the coast for surfers with one of the best waves<br />
in the world in Chicama, and where its own capital<br />
city is a hotspot that combines sports, culture and<br />
gastronomy.<br />
take a selfie in Machu Picchu, but they will also<br />
return to their country with something different to<br />
tell, something other people have not done.<br />
Let us go back to the project LimaTours is<br />
currently handling. What is the next stage?<br />
François: To continue to improve the product<br />
based on the criteria we handle, seeking integration<br />
and respect for the social and economic reality of<br />
each area; and training the guides and mule drivers<br />
so they can share their knowledge about the Inca<br />
Trail in the future. We are also going to work with<br />
the communities so that this project becomes an<br />
experience tourism activity through their meetings<br />
with the trekkers.<br />
KM Cero<br />
These options, added to one of the best hotel<br />
markets in the region, make it a very attractive<br />
country. A large number of adventure tourists<br />
seek a certain level of comfort and are going to<br />
find it in Peru, either at high-end hotels or at semipermanent<br />
camps or glamping, where they sleep<br />
in the nature but they have their own bathroom,<br />
heating and a bed. Currently, Peru offers nearly all<br />
the levels of comfort that can be imagined.<br />
How much or less acceptance adventure<br />
tourism has against conventional tourism?<br />
François: Adventure tourism is growing<br />
faster and new generations of travelers want<br />
something different. They look for experiences<br />
that involve physical activity and interaction with<br />
the communities, which enable them to get a<br />
deep knowledge of a destination. Several markets,<br />
such as Asia, for example, regard Peru as an exotic<br />
country per se, and young people want to live things<br />
their parents do not care about. They are going to<br />
Nature and adventure mix on the trek to Mount<br />
Salcantay, one of the most popular activities in Cusco.<br />
44
PUREQUEST<br />
ADVENTURES,<br />
OUR<br />
ADVENTURE<br />
DIVISION<br />
Sergio Salazar<br />
François with the PureQuest<br />
Adventures team in Lima. Standing<br />
from left to right: Patricia Roncal<br />
(Head), Sandra Barrios (Regional<br />
Manager) and Gabriela Montero<br />
(Supervisor). Sitting from left to right:<br />
Lourdes Olivares, Erika Regalado and<br />
Paloma Prevost (Specialists).<br />
Diego Nishiyama<br />
The PureQuest Adventures team in<br />
Cusco. Center: Pilar Ballón (Head of<br />
Cusco Office). From left to right: Edwin<br />
Pancorbo, Cirilo Huamán, Yussara Quispe,<br />
Koecling Pumayalli and Fernando Araoz<br />
(Specialists). Absent: Víctor Olarte.Olarte.<br />
What is PureQuest Adventures?<br />
François: These are LimaTours’ adventure experts, a<br />
commercial team with knowledge on the line of business<br />
that provides more specialized advice to our clients abroad<br />
and to the rest of the company. PureQuest Adventures<br />
is also a brand present in other countries, with which we<br />
work under a common operational standard to provide<br />
a homogeneous service, with good practices and a joint<br />
commercial approach to the clients.<br />
What is its standard?<br />
François: PureQuest Adventures was created to offer<br />
high-quality tourism, with programs that offer a high level<br />
of comfort. We are not trying to position ourselves in the<br />
low-cost segment of tourism, but to offer an experience<br />
that differs from that of our competitors, but at competitive<br />
prices. We provide one of the best services in Peru, with<br />
high-quality equipment and a trained staff. This gives us the<br />
certainty that the passenger is going to be safe throughout<br />
the trip and will go home with good memories.<br />
45
TREKKING<br />
PRODUCTS<br />
Enjoy our<br />
audiovisual<br />
material.<br />
KM Cero<br />
INCA TRAIL<br />
Private and shared service<br />
2 DAYS / 1 NIGHT & 4 DAYS / 3 NIGHTS<br />
Many publications rate the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu as one<br />
of the best treks in the world. Touring Cusco’s exotic geography,<br />
and exploring well-preserved archaeological remains is a<br />
world-class experience. This is the ultimate adventure and<br />
the best way of reaching one of the most magical places on<br />
the planet: Machu Picchu.<br />
KM Cero<br />
SALKANTAY<br />
Private and shared service<br />
4 DAYS / 3 NIGHTS & 5 DAYS / 4 NIGHTS<br />
The renowned Salkantay (or Salcantay) route was ranked<br />
among the best 25 treks in the world by the National<br />
Geographic Adventure Travel magazine. This trek is open to<br />
the public, without limitation of spaces or permits. This trek<br />
covers an ancient and remote path where huge snow-capped<br />
peaks clash with lush tropical forests.<br />
KM Cero<br />
CHOQUEQUIRAO<br />
Private service<br />
4 DAYS / 3 NIGHTS<br />
Ancient Inca citadel compared to Machu Picchu for its<br />
majestic ruins. Its little fame turns this into an almost<br />
customized trekking experience. Known as “the cradle of gold”<br />
for its undisturbed beauty, it resisted the passing of centuries<br />
among the mountains and wild vegetation that covers almost<br />
80% of its area.<br />
The trek<br />
includes<br />
Head<br />
Lamps<br />
Pillows<br />
Sleeping<br />
Bags<br />
Inflatable<br />
Mats<br />
Camping<br />
Equipment<br />
First Aid Kit
FULL DAY / Balcon del Diablo<br />
Level: Moderate / Duration: 8 hours<br />
Maximum altitude: 3,680 m.a.s.l.<br />
At a 20-minute distance from Sacsayhuaman, it is an ideal tour to<br />
relax and explore the nearby archaeological remains.<br />
Colectivo Intu<br />
FULL DAY / Huilloc - Pumamarca<br />
Level: Moderate / Duration: approximately 6 - 7 hours<br />
Maximum altitude: Huilloc (3,540 m.a.s.l.)<br />
Visit the Huilloc community, whose residents maintain the<br />
Inca way of living until today.<br />
Colectivo Intu<br />
FULL DAY / Huchuy Qosqo<br />
Level: Demanding / Duration: 8 hours<br />
Maximum altitude: 4,394 m.a.s.l.<br />
Visit his ancient administrative and military center located in<br />
front of the Urubamba mountain range.<br />
Colectivo Intu<br />
FULL DAY / Choquechaca<br />
Level: Demanding / Duration: 7 - 8 hours<br />
Maximum altitude: Choquechaca (3,825 m.a.s.l.)<br />
It is ideal to know more about the traditions of Andean towns.<br />
Colectivo Intu<br />
FULL DAY / Moray - Maras<br />
Level: Moderate / Duration: 7 - 8 hours<br />
Maximum altitude: Moray (3,500 m.a.s.l.)<br />
Visit Moray, an experimental Inca agricultural station and the<br />
Maras salt mines that have more than 3,000 wells on the hillside<br />
of the Qaqawiñay Mountain.<br />
Colectivo Intu<br />
FULL DAY / Chinchero - Urquillos<br />
Level: Moderate / Duration: 6 - 7 hours<br />
Maximum altitude: Chinchero (3,762 m.a.s.l.)<br />
The road to Urquillos through the Sacred Valley has<br />
breathtaking views.<br />
Colectivo Intu
LOOKING FOR THE LEGACY FAR FROM THE ASPHALT<br />
LOOKING FOR<br />
THE LEGACY<br />
FAR FROM THE ASPHALT<br />
48
WE CAN ALSO FIND<br />
STRETCHES OF THE<br />
QHAPAQ ÑAN VERY<br />
CLOSE TO LIMA. HUAYCAN<br />
DE CIENEGUILLA, AS WELL<br />
AS PACHACAMAC, IS ONE<br />
OF THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL<br />
CENTERS ASSOCIATED<br />
TO THE ROAD SYSTEM.<br />
IT EXEMPLIFIES THE<br />
HEGEMONY OF THE<br />
TAHUANTINSUYO OVER<br />
THE LOCAL CULTURES.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
From the lookout,<br />
one can clearly see<br />
the corridors and<br />
squares inside the<br />
archeological site.<br />
49
LOOKING FOR THE LEGACY FAR FROM THE ASPHALT<br />
The first image we have when we talk about the<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> is of a cobblestone, imposing road<br />
that extends at the foot of the mountains in the<br />
middle of the South American Andes. However,<br />
part of its extension spanned less wild terrains<br />
such as coastal deserts and valleys.<br />
Turned into a modern city that continues to<br />
grow, Lima was once part of this system. The<br />
roads crossed the great avenues of what used to<br />
be the route to Pachacamac, the most important<br />
pre-Hispanic sanctuary on the central coast. All<br />
these roads have disappeared amidst cement<br />
and asphalt, but we can still perceive history and<br />
connect with the past at the archaeological sites.<br />
The wonderful Inca constructions are distributed<br />
across Peru, from Aypate in Piura to Racchi<br />
in Puno, and Lima is no exception. Although<br />
Pachacamac is one of its maximum examples,<br />
the Huaycan de Cieneguilla administrative center<br />
is located in the middle valley of the Lurin River.<br />
It is connected to the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> through the<br />
Xauxa-Pachacamac transversal road.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
UNITY, NOT<br />
IMPOSITION<br />
The work of<br />
conservation<br />
and restoration<br />
is important<br />
because of the<br />
fragility of the<br />
adobe walls.<br />
Huaycan de Cieneguilla is part of the 27<br />
archaeological sites found in the Cieneguilla<br />
district in Lima, at the foot of a ravine at 449<br />
m.a.s.l. “This place has special relevance because<br />
it has characteristics of the Ychsma culture and<br />
has been enhanced by the Inca architecture.<br />
This makes it more important in relation to<br />
50
Some studies<br />
mention that the<br />
bas-relief friezes<br />
are related to the<br />
supernatural world.<br />
CIENEGUILLA<br />
DISTRICT IS<br />
30 MINUTES<br />
AWAY FROM<br />
LIMA. ITS<br />
VARIED<br />
GASTRONOMY,<br />
RECREATION<br />
CENTERS,<br />
MILD<br />
WEATHER<br />
AND NATURAL<br />
BEAUTY<br />
MAKE IT THE<br />
RECREATION<br />
CORNER OF<br />
THE LIMA<br />
RESIDENTS.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
the route of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>,” said Fernando<br />
Mackie, Director of the Huaycan de Cieneguilla<br />
Comprehensive Project.<br />
Before the arrival of the Incas, the area was<br />
occupied by the Ychsma Lordship, which<br />
spanned the valleys of the Lima and Lurin rivers.<br />
It was one of the largest and more complex<br />
buildings in the area. Archaeologists think it was<br />
a ceremonial center with rural characteristics<br />
between the Pachacamacac and Hatun-Xauxa<br />
(Junin) provincial capital cities.<br />
When the Ychsma people were annexed to<br />
the Tahuantinsuyo, the Incas commenced the<br />
reforms using the existing buildings in the area.<br />
Then, the Huaycan de Cieneguilla site became a<br />
control point of the wayfarers who traveled from<br />
the highlands to the coast or vice versa.<br />
51
LOOKING FOR THE LEGACY FAR FROM THE ASPHALT<br />
LIMA’S INCA<br />
HERITAGE<br />
The 16 hectares of Huaycan de Cieneguilla’s builtup<br />
area are divided into three zones that cannot<br />
be visibly noted. To discern their actual scope,<br />
one must climb to the lookout where the tours<br />
start: the nuclear area, the most important one,<br />
is divided into twelve architectural complexes<br />
connected by six streets as a small city. It is easy<br />
to imagine the people gathered on the main yard<br />
just in the center of the complex, with a ramp that<br />
enables important figures to access the platform,<br />
a characteristic of the Ychsma buildings.<br />
Walking by the narrow corridors of the place,<br />
one can note the symbiosis between the Inca<br />
and Ychsma architecture. Leaving its adobe<br />
walls behind, one reaches the space known as<br />
the ‘window complex’, with trapezoid spans and<br />
stone lintels on the doors that are clearly Incan<br />
construction elements. From that point, it is<br />
possible to see the whole valley, reasserting the<br />
connection with nature and the function of control<br />
center this archaeological site used to have.<br />
The decorated friezes are a typical Ychsma detail<br />
and are associated with ceremonial or funeral<br />
spaces. Circular bas-relief designs may be noted<br />
in some areas which, according to the research,<br />
could be interpreted as a lunar calendar or are<br />
related to astronomic observations.<br />
But without a doubt, the most important finding<br />
is the tomb of a member of the Inca elite: the<br />
quipukamayok. A wooden kero (a ceremonial<br />
drinking vessel), a symbol of power; a spondylus<br />
shell, one of the most valued materials during the<br />
empire; and a group of bound quipus (recording<br />
device), which show the status of this person, were<br />
found together with the skeletal remains.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
The square is<br />
an example<br />
of the<br />
convergence<br />
of the Ychsma<br />
and Inca<br />
cultures: a<br />
large space<br />
with a ramp<br />
beside a<br />
trapezoid door.<br />
52
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
The decorated friezes determine the<br />
category of the buildings inside the<br />
archeological site.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
The Incan<br />
windows are<br />
the only ones<br />
that remain<br />
in this area<br />
of the Lurin<br />
river valley.<br />
CIENEGUILLA AND ITS<br />
COMMUNITY IN ACTION<br />
The Huaycan de Cieneguilla Comprehensive<br />
Project started its activities in 2007, to enhance<br />
the value of the Inca settlement. The research<br />
work is supplemented with a socio-cultural work<br />
aimed to integrate the neighboring areas to the<br />
planning and conservation programs, so that they<br />
have a positive vision of their heritage and learn to<br />
appreciate it.<br />
53
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
The visits that include<br />
performances portray the<br />
way of living of the ancient<br />
residents of the place.<br />
Nevertheless, the population did not turn<br />
their back on their legacy before the arrival of<br />
the specialists. Since the 1960s, the residents<br />
committed to look after the archaeological site<br />
and protect it from latent dangers in the area such<br />
as land invasions. “Our vision is to work hand in<br />
hand with the community so that they can take<br />
over the entire project and improve their quality<br />
of life”, highlighted Mackie.<br />
Their eagerness for creating a new experience for<br />
the tourists who arrive at Huaycan de Cieneguilla<br />
generated groups of cultural advisors formed by<br />
the residents, who are trained to tell the story of<br />
the place from a local perspective. These teams<br />
also lead the night tours, supplementing history<br />
and archaeology with traditional legends and<br />
tales; and the interpretive visits in Quechua with<br />
characters dressed as the ancient Inca residents.<br />
Last year, Huaycan de Cieneguilla received about<br />
8,500 visitors, and expects to exceed this figure<br />
in 2017, thanks to the further advertising on the<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>. The ties with local entrepreneurs<br />
and businesses from the area help establish the<br />
archaeological zone within the touristic circuit of<br />
the district, renowned for its gastronomic corridor<br />
and ecological value.<br />
54
XAUXA-PACHACAMAC,<br />
THE ROUTE OF THE GODS<br />
Apu Pariacaca in Yauyos (Lima) is one of the<br />
most revered deities of the empire.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
Between the departments of Junin and Lima lies one of the<br />
most amazing stretches of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>. The Xauxa-<br />
Pachacamac stretch connects the Longitudinal Highland<br />
Highway with the Longitudinal Coastal Highway, passing<br />
from the arid and hot desert to the cold puna region along<br />
its 223-km route.<br />
This section of the road was vitally important for the<br />
Incas, as its relevance was not only logistical but also<br />
religious. The road connected two important places of the<br />
Chinchaysuyo: the Hatun-Xauxa administrative center in<br />
the central highlands and Pachacamac, the most important<br />
administrative and ceremonial complex on the central coast.<br />
The road was considered a pilgrimage route to Apu Pariacaca,<br />
a snow-capped peak in the Yauyos region considered one of<br />
the most important deities of the Tahuantinsuyo.<br />
The wayfarers who traveled from the highlands to the<br />
coast descended from 4,800 to 50 m.a.s.l., surrounded by<br />
beautiful natural landscapes and fabulous architectural<br />
constructions such as tambos and stairways that have up to<br />
1,800 perfectly aligned stone steps.<br />
In 2014, this stretch was included on the UNESCO World<br />
Heritage List, due to its importance within the organization<br />
and distribution of the Inca road system.<br />
55
56 Front view of the pyramid with the<br />
ramp. Pachacamac Archaeological<br />
Sanctuary (Lima).
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
57
LOOKING FOR THE LEGACY FAR FROM THE ASPHALT<br />
Lima is characterized by having<br />
huacas inside the city.<br />
MATEO SALADO,<br />
A JEWEL IN THE CITY<br />
Pedro Espinoza Pajuelo / Complejo Arqueológico Mateo Salado<br />
The Mateo Salado archaeological complex is located at the<br />
heart of Lima, between Breña and Pueblo Libre districts.<br />
Its constructions made of ‘tapia’ (rammed earth), emerge<br />
among the high-rise buildings, creating a unique landscape<br />
where history coexists with modernity.<br />
Mateo Salado was an administrative-ceremonial center<br />
that belonged to the Ychsma Lordship which, the same as<br />
Huaycan de Cieneguilla, was reoccupied when the Incas<br />
annexed it to the empire. The complex has five walled<br />
pyramids. The Longitudinal Coastal Highway of the Qhapaq<br />
<strong>Ñan</strong> came from the north, just beside pyramid A, which was<br />
used as main temple of the complex.<br />
The 18-m high pyramids were also used as houses for the<br />
Ychsma and Inca elites. With the arrival of the Spaniards to<br />
Lima, the place was plundered, began to deteriorate and<br />
its area was reduced with the emergence of farmlands,<br />
companies and squatters.<br />
This process of neglect ended in 2000, when researchers<br />
started to recover Mateo Salado and it was listed as a<br />
National Cultural Heritage Site in the following year. In 2007,<br />
the Ministry of Culture started to work on its enhancement,<br />
and the National Office of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> implemented<br />
a new comprehensive project focused on the area in<br />
2016. This project is concerned with working on the huaca,<br />
recovering it and bringing it closer to the neighbors as a<br />
space to be publicly used.<br />
Mateo Salado, together with the Larco Museum located a<br />
few blocks away in Pueblo Libre district, is one of the most<br />
important tourist attractions of the city of Lima.<br />
58
PROGRAMME<br />
LIMA’S INCA<br />
HERITAGE<br />
MATEO SALADO - HUAYCAN DE CIENEGUILLA - PACHACAMAC<br />
DAY 1 - LIMA<br />
Arrival in Lima. Transfer from the airport to your selected hotel in<br />
the city.<br />
DAY 2 - VISIT TO MATEO SALADO<br />
Today you will visit the Mateo Salado archaeological complex. Then, you<br />
will be transferred to Cieneguilla, where you will have lunch at a typical<br />
restaurant and will tour the Huaycan de Cieneguilla archaeological<br />
complex. You will participate in a workshop for the preparation of<br />
adobe friezes and will overnight in the area.<br />
DAY 3 - HUAYCAN DE CIENEGUILLA - PACHACAMAC<br />
You will participate in a trek from Huaycan de Cieneguilla to the<br />
Pachacamac archaeological site. Upon your arrival, you will have lunch<br />
at a country-style restaurant and will enjoy a Peruvian Paso horse<br />
show. Return to Lima.<br />
KM Cero<br />
Sergio Salazar<br />
DAY 4 - LIMA<br />
Transfer from your hotel to the airport. International flight.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office
PERU’S<br />
GREAT RICHES<br />
IN ADDITION TO THE QHAPAQ ÑAN, PERU HAS ELEVEN WORLD HERITAGE SITES<br />
BETWEEN ARCHAEOLOGICAL HERITAGE SITES AND NATURAL BEAUTIES. THE<br />
WONDERFUL DESTINATIONS OFFERED BY THE COUNTRY GO FROM THE ARID DESERT IN<br />
THE NORTH TO THE LUSH FOREST IN THE SOUTHEAST.<br />
1<br />
CHAVIN ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE<br />
It was listed as a Heritage Site in 1985.<br />
It is a jewel of the Chavin Culture, built between<br />
1,500 and 300 B.C. at 72 km from Huaraz (Ancash).<br />
It stands out for its terraces, squares and internal<br />
galleries that housed treasures such as the<br />
Monolithic Lanzon (Giant Spear) and the Tello<br />
Obelisk.<br />
2 SACRED CITY OF CARAL<br />
It was listed as a Heritage<br />
Site in 2009.<br />
The remains of this 5,000-years-old<br />
city, the oldest in America, are located<br />
182 km north of Lima. Caral is a unique<br />
civilization given its architectural<br />
design and socio-political complexity.<br />
HUASCARAN NATIONAL PARK<br />
It was listed as a Heritage<br />
Site in 1985.<br />
Located on the White Mountain Range<br />
(Huaraz), its greatest attraction is<br />
Mount Huascaran of 6,768 m.a.s.l. Its<br />
glaciers and lagoons make it one of the<br />
most attractive destinations for<br />
adventurous travelers.<br />
3<br />
HISTORIC CENTER OF LIMA<br />
It was listed as a Heritage<br />
Site en 1991.<br />
Lima, the capital city of Peru, was also<br />
the most important city of the Spanish<br />
Viceroyalty until the 18th century. Its<br />
beauty lies in the Colonial buildings,<br />
squares and convents that show the<br />
work of Peruvian and European artists.<br />
PACIFIC<br />
OCEAN<br />
4<br />
10<br />
3<br />
1<br />
6<br />
2<br />
4<br />
THE ROLE OF<br />
LIMATOURS<br />
As part of its mission to communicate the wonders of Peru to the<br />
world, LimaTours was and continues to be part of the enhancement<br />
and research of some World Heritage Sites.<br />
1991<br />
HISTORIC CENTER OF LIMA<br />
In 1989, the founder of LimaTours, Eduardo R. Arrarte, created the Lima Foundation.<br />
He was the Chairman when the Foundation started the paperwork to list the<br />
Historic Center as a World Heritage Site.<br />
2009<br />
SACRED CITY OF CARAL<br />
After facing mishaps, the Caral-Supe Archaeological Project had no place to work in<br />
2002. LimaTours offered a space in its office for the project members, to relocate and<br />
continue with its research work.<br />
11<br />
2014<br />
QHAPAQ ÑAN<br />
As part of ‘The Great Inca Trail’ expedition, LimaTours intends to raise awareness<br />
about the country’s historical legacy, to communicate our heritage and obtain the<br />
information necessary to develop sustainable tourism activities on some of its stretches.
5 MANU NATIONAL PARK<br />
It was listed as a Heritage Site in 1997.<br />
With an area of more than 1 million hectares that go from<br />
Cusco to Madre de Dios, it is considered one of the most<br />
biodiverse parks on Earth. It is home to more than 200 species<br />
of mammals, 800 species of birds, 68 species de reptiles, 77<br />
species of amphibians and thousands of trees and flowers<br />
distributed across tenths of ecosystems.<br />
RIO ABISEO NATIONAL PARK<br />
It was listed as a Heritage Site in 1992.<br />
The park, located in the department of San Martin in<br />
northern Peru, is not only home to thousands of endemic<br />
species of animals and plants. It also protects<br />
archaeological complexes such as Gran Pajaten, attributed<br />
to the Chachapoyas Culture.<br />
6<br />
7 HISTORIC SANCTUARY OF MACHU PICCHU<br />
It was listed as a Heritage Site in 1983.<br />
The citadel is considered a masterpiece of the Inca<br />
architecture. It blends in with nature exceptionally amidst<br />
a complex terrain. UNESCO also highlights its scenic<br />
beauty, flora and fauna.<br />
CITY OF CUSCO<br />
It was listed as a Heritage<br />
Site in 1983.<br />
Touring its streets is to enjoy the<br />
convergence of the Inca and<br />
Colonial architecture, creating a<br />
unique urban structure in the<br />
world. It is a testimony of the<br />
Andean cultural development lived<br />
more than 3,000 years ago.<br />
8<br />
HISTORIC CENTER OF AREQUIPA<br />
It was listed as a Heritage Site in<br />
2000.<br />
Its typical construction made with sillar, a<br />
type of volcanic rock, shows the fusion<br />
between the Colonial architecture and the<br />
indigenous tradition. Its stately mansions<br />
and Baroque churches stand out.<br />
9<br />
10 CHAN CHAN ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONE<br />
It was listed as a Heritage Site in 1986.<br />
The ancient city made of adobe is an example of<br />
urban planning of the Chimu Culture in the middle<br />
of the desert. It is located at a distance of 5 km<br />
from the city of Trujillo in northern Peru.<br />
11 LINES AND GEOGLYPHS OF<br />
NASCA AND PAMPAS DE<br />
JUMANA<br />
They were listed as a Heritage<br />
Site in 1994.<br />
The figures of animals drawn on the<br />
sand of the desert in southern Peru are<br />
a testimony of the religious beliefs of<br />
the Nasca Culture. These geoglyphs<br />
have survived for more than 2,000 years<br />
thanks to the dry weather of the area.<br />
INTANGIBLE HERITAGE<br />
7<br />
5<br />
UNESCO also recognizes the practices, knowledge and artistic expressions of the communities around the world.<br />
They are called the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, inherited for generations as a cultural legacy: oral<br />
traditions, dances, rituals, festive events, and cultural spaces, among others.<br />
8<br />
Ten of Peru’s intangible heritages have been listed: the textile art of Taquile (Puno), the cultural<br />
manifestations of the Zapara people (shared with Ecuador), the cultural heritage of Aymara communities (shared<br />
with Chile and Bolivia), The Huaconada dance (Junin), the Scissors dance (Ayacucho), the pilgrimage to the<br />
sanctuary of the Lord of Qoyllurit’i (Cusco), the Eshuva or sung prayers of the Huachipaeri people (jungle of<br />
Cusco and Madre de Dios), the rituals related to the annual renewal of the Q’eswachaka bridge (Cusco), the<br />
festivity of the Virgen de la Candelaria (Puno), and the Wititi dance (Arequipa).<br />
9<br />
WINGS OVER PERU<br />
To celebrate its 50th anniversary, in 2006, LimaTours created an ambitious product for the most exclusive<br />
passengers who want to know Peru. With ‘Wings over Peru’, the tourists will visit Peru for nine days on a private<br />
airplane, with luxury activities to have a unique experience.<br />
The itinerary of ‘Wings over Peru’ includes visits to nine world heritage sites. The trip starts with two days in<br />
Lima; on day 3, they travel to Trujillo, where they will visit Chan Chan and the Temple of the Sun and the Moon; in<br />
the afternoon, they will go to the Museum of the Lord of Sipan in Chiclayo. On day 4, they head for Arequipa and<br />
Cusco in the south. On days 5 and 6, they will visit the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, respectively; ending with<br />
a city tour on day 7. Nasca is the last destination, reserved for day 8, with a unique flight over the Nasca Lines.
THE ROAD OF ALL OF US<br />
THE ROAD OF<br />
ALL OF US<br />
62
WALKING ON THE<br />
QHAPAQ ÑAN IS LIKE<br />
MAKING A DISCOVERY.<br />
IT IS LIKE OPENING THE<br />
EYES TO A SUBLIME<br />
ARCHITECTURAL<br />
HERITAGE, AND TO A<br />
CULTURAL RICHNESS<br />
REFLECTED IN THE<br />
POPULATIONS<br />
LOCATED VERY CLOSE<br />
TO THE ROUTE. THESE<br />
COMMUNITIES ARE<br />
THE LEADING STARS<br />
OF HISTORY, WITH<br />
THE ANCESTRAL<br />
TRADITIONS THEY HAVE<br />
KEPT ALIVE AND MAKE<br />
THE ROAD SYSTEM A<br />
LIVING SPACE.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
The colors of<br />
the garments of<br />
the Las Fallas<br />
dance vary in<br />
accordance with<br />
the community<br />
to which they<br />
belong.<br />
63
THE ROAD OF ALL OF US<br />
Since it has the category of a ‘cultural route’, the<br />
relevance of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> goes far beyond<br />
the monumental character of its construction.<br />
The traditions and heritage of the communities<br />
located near the road, and the relation they have<br />
with it and with their ancestors give continuity and<br />
a more humane sense to the heritage.<br />
The work with the populations is one of the<br />
strengths of the people entrusted with the<br />
management, preservation and research of the<br />
road system. After all, as it has been built with a<br />
utilitarian purpose, the essence of Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> is<br />
to be at the service of the people, facilitating their<br />
communication and daily work.<br />
“The greatest richness of our intangible heritage<br />
lies in the route of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>, in the people it<br />
interconnects,” assured Rodrigo Ruiz, coordinator<br />
of the Community Involvement area of the Qhapaq<br />
<strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office. Establishing a good<br />
relationship with the residents of the areas along<br />
the route is essential for its preservation.<br />
Residents of Soledad de Tambo (Ancash) on<br />
their way to performing road cleaning tasks.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
TEAMWORK<br />
Nearly 50% of the 60,000 km of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong><br />
is located in Peru. 250 km have been granted<br />
the category of World Heritage together with 82<br />
archaeological sites. How can we protect such a<br />
broad asset that spans the entire country? This is<br />
where the role of the communities becomes vitally<br />
important, as they have become the right hand of<br />
government entities.<br />
To work with the population it is necessary to<br />
build the trust. The objective of the Community<br />
Involvement area is to establish a commitment<br />
for performing joint work with the people who<br />
live in the areas crossed by Inca roads through<br />
64<br />
Regional treks enhance the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong><br />
for the new generations.
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
a sign of respect to the communities that will<br />
influence their open-mindedness to the action<br />
plan.<br />
A great part of the road system crosses the<br />
properties of the farmers; therefore, the first step<br />
is to contact the assemblies, which manage each<br />
area. These meetings are used to tell them the<br />
plan to be followed and what the Inca trail that<br />
crosses their territory requires. This approach<br />
opens a window on dialogue between both parties.<br />
Years ago, these people were regarded as an agent<br />
that destroyed the heritage and were a threat for<br />
its conservation. This perception was related to<br />
the relationship the entities had with respect to<br />
the local residents, applying restrictions to the<br />
use of archaeological sites. In this case, as farmers<br />
and livestock breeders travel on the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong><br />
every day, it was necessary to take other measures<br />
to provide information to the users, ask for their<br />
opinions and seek agreements that do not affect<br />
their way of living.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
THE ‘MEETING OF THE INDIGENOUS<br />
CULTURE OF THE CHINCHAYSUYO’ IS AN<br />
EVENT HELD IN HUANUCO PAMPA IN<br />
JUNE OF EACH YEAR AND IT GATHERS<br />
ALL THE TOWNS OF DOS DE MAYO<br />
PROVINCE TO RECOVER, ENHANCE AND<br />
PROTECT THEIR CULTURAL TRADITIONS.<br />
dialogue processes. It is not an imposition, but a<br />
shared mission in favor of a common good: the<br />
preservation of heritage.<br />
“UNESCO’s viewpoint on work requires this<br />
collaboration. It is one of the guidelines they have<br />
established,” said Ruiz. Although there is no legal<br />
obligation to make these approaches, the teams<br />
of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project understand them as<br />
Puchkakuy is the yarn spinning<br />
contest, an ancestral tradition<br />
that remains alive.<br />
65
Stretch of road near<br />
the Soledad 66 de Tambo<br />
archaeological site<br />
(Ancash).
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
67
THE ROAD OF ALL OF US<br />
GIVING RENEWED<br />
VALUE TO THE<br />
TRAIL<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
Raising awareness of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>’s potential<br />
for development in favor of the community is the<br />
basis for the subsequent work of the team of<br />
specialists. When they are aware of the benefits<br />
they can obtain and the importance of the trail for<br />
the world, the residents become the protectors of<br />
their own heritage.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
Tourism is one of the requests of these areas; it is<br />
recognized as a source of direct income through<br />
the asset they handle. This more progressive<br />
vision of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> generates a dynamic of<br />
interest and gains a new functionality. It is not only<br />
useful for transport, it is also profitable.<br />
Community men participating in the Shuyunakuy, the act<br />
of turning the land for the sowing.<br />
Although the trail is a magnificent engineering<br />
work, its value does not lie in the stones that make<br />
it up. The traditions that revolve around it are<br />
an “added value” to the tourism experience and<br />
enable the residents to design work plans in line<br />
with their needs.<br />
Papa Munday (potato peeling)<br />
is a daily activity with a rich<br />
history.<br />
Let us take Huanuco Pampa as an example. This<br />
is one of the most important archaeological<br />
sites of what used to be the Chinchaysuyo. Part<br />
of the duties of the Comprehensive Project that<br />
operates in the area have led to the creation of<br />
an association with the members of the local<br />
village, to give them opportunities for employment<br />
and development. Through this association, the<br />
residents carry out a number of activities such<br />
as folk dances, ceremonies for Paying Tribute to<br />
Mother Earth or the preparation of typical dishes<br />
that show the intangible heritage of the area<br />
and, at the same time, generate income for their<br />
families.<br />
“It is important that people become aware of value<br />
and achieve social and cultural development. But<br />
if that does not lead to an economic growth, it<br />
68
Archaeologists working with the residents on the zoning<br />
of the land crossed by the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>.<br />
is not possible to progress, as they also have to<br />
meet their needs. We cannot sell culture alone,<br />
there has to be a benefit for the population,”<br />
commented Luis Enrique Paredes, Director of the<br />
Huanuco Pampa Comprehensive Project.<br />
INCLUSIVE<br />
HERITAGE<br />
“Heritage belongs to all.” Indeed, both the local<br />
population and the visitors have the opportunity<br />
of enjoying wonderful destinations such as Machu<br />
Picchu or the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> in Peru. However, the<br />
accessibility of some places is limited by their<br />
geographic location or by the lack of an appropriate<br />
infrastructure.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
According to the results of the First National<br />
Specialized Survey on Disability conducted by the<br />
National Council for the Integration of People with<br />
Disabilities (CONADIS) published in 2016, Peru<br />
has 1,575,402 people with some type of disability<br />
who account for 5.2% of the total population. It is<br />
important to generate inclusive tourism programs<br />
for people that enable them to have an equitable<br />
approach to culture.<br />
In the cities or in remote towns, the Community<br />
Involvement area is carrying out actions to integrate<br />
people with disabilities to culture and tourism.<br />
Working with associations of blind and deaf people,<br />
they obtain first-hand information on their needs to<br />
prepare a project that fits out certain archaeological<br />
centers to be visited this group of the population.<br />
Another way of achieving inclusion when working<br />
with Andean communities is to hold meetings with<br />
them in their mother tongue, either Quechua or<br />
Aymara. By approaching them with this assertive<br />
instruction, the communication becomes more<br />
effective, enhancing the diversity of languages<br />
spoken in our country.<br />
“The Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> is becoming a symbol of unity,<br />
of the convergence of people, the interrelation<br />
with the Tahuantinsuyo of the past and today’s<br />
populations. It represents the link of an entire<br />
country,” said Ruiz. As legacy that connected an<br />
empire and has the potential to connect a nation<br />
and make it feel proud of its past.<br />
The new<br />
generations<br />
learn the<br />
importance of<br />
their cultural<br />
legacy since<br />
their childhood.<br />
Sergio Salazar<br />
69
THE ROAD OF ALL OF US<br />
THE COMPREHENSIVE<br />
PROJECTS<br />
The community is involved in heritage<br />
conservation work.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
By being a living heritage, there are communities that<br />
depend on the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> at various levels and use it<br />
in an unregulated way that can cause damages.<br />
In their eagerness to use the resources, the residents<br />
offered tourism visits and used resources in their<br />
traditional rituals. But their lack of knowledge led them<br />
to carry out harmful activities such as illegal excavations,<br />
extraction of stones to build houses, invasions, or used<br />
the sites as waste dumps.<br />
Given this situation, the National Office of the Qhapaq<br />
<strong>Ñan</strong> began to implement the Comprehensive Projects<br />
aimed to the social implementation of the material<br />
and intangible cultural heritage. This involves joint<br />
work that includes the conservation, research and<br />
joint management with the populations based on the<br />
creation of awareness about the use of archaeological<br />
sites to improve their quality of life.<br />
Determining the places to establish a Comprehensive<br />
Project involves evaluating criteria such as the<br />
archaeological, scenic and ethnographic importance of<br />
the asset; the conditions of poverty of the neighboring<br />
populations, the potential for economic development,<br />
the accessibility to the site, the territorial balance and<br />
the open-mindedness of the communities to establish<br />
partnerships.<br />
Five Comprehensive Projects have been established:<br />
Huanuco Pampa (Huanuco), Huaycan de Cieneguilla<br />
(Lima), Cabeza de Vaca (Tumbes), Aypate (Piura) and<br />
Mateo Salado (Lima).<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
School children learning about the<br />
Inca Trail and its importance.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
Meetings allow the interaction between<br />
the residents and the experts.<br />
70
71
72<br />
QHAPAQ CAMP, A UNIQUE TRIP
QHAPAQ<br />
CAMP<br />
A UNIQUE TRIP<br />
IN ITS QUEST FOR<br />
OFFERING NEW<br />
EXPERIENCES TO ITS<br />
CLIENTS, LIMATOURS<br />
PRESENTS THE<br />
‘QHAPAQ CAMP’ AS A<br />
RETURN TO THE PAST<br />
BACK TO THE INCA<br />
TIMES, WHERE THE<br />
PASSENGER WILL GET<br />
IN CONTACT WITH<br />
NATIVE TRADITIONS,<br />
WALKING ALONG A<br />
ROUTE THAT REMAINS<br />
ALIVE FOR MORE THAN<br />
FIVE CENTURIES.<br />
Rodrigo Cabrera / KM Cero<br />
‘Qhapaq Camp’<br />
is a return to<br />
ancient times,<br />
where culture<br />
and nature join.<br />
73
QHAPAQ CAMP, A UNIQUE TRIP<br />
THE EXPERIENCE<br />
‘Qhapaq Camp’ intends to give renewed value<br />
to the ancestral traditions of Andean towns, the<br />
communities that have coexisted with history for<br />
decades and made it part of their daily life. This is<br />
an opportunity to get to know deepest Peru, with all<br />
the comfort and service quality that we have always<br />
been characterized by.<br />
Travelers will be part<br />
of the daily life of<br />
communities that use<br />
the road.<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> Project’s National Office<br />
The Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> was not only a means of<br />
communication, but also a way of experiencing<br />
what it represented to be part of the Inca Empire.<br />
Each minimum detail has been taken into account<br />
under this concept, from the operability to the<br />
activities the visitor will enjoy. Camping near<br />
archaeological centers such as ushnus and tambos,<br />
trekking on well preserved routes with Inca walls<br />
that are more than 500-years-old or using llamas<br />
KM Cero<br />
The residents could use this imposing, thoroughly<br />
controlled and organized construction that crossed<br />
their community. They could also see the chasquis<br />
(messengers) passing very close to them, the<br />
pilgrims on religious trips, groups of llamas carrying<br />
groceries, large troops of soldiers and even the top<br />
representatives of power. All this happened amidst<br />
an impressive natural landscape in the highlands<br />
and the coast, with the Apus (mountains) protecting<br />
them at every step.<br />
Native<br />
potatoes<br />
are one of<br />
the main<br />
ingredients<br />
of the<br />
Andean<br />
diet.<br />
Today, 500 years later, one may not see armies or<br />
authorities traveling along the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>, but the<br />
image of unity, mysticism and tradition remains. In<br />
its eagerness for conveying the unique essence of<br />
this huge road network, LimaTours has created<br />
‘Qhapaq Camp’, a cultural and experience tourism<br />
concept that intends to bring the passenger as<br />
close as possible to what used to be the life in the<br />
Tahuantinsuyo.<br />
74<br />
‘Qhapaq Camp’ is an approach to<br />
Andean traditions.<br />
Kevin Floerke
as cargo-bearing animals – an Andean custom<br />
that is about to disappear – are some of the<br />
characteristics that make ‘Qhapaq Camp’ a unique<br />
experience.<br />
The soft feet of the llamas prevent the<br />
deterioration of the road compared to<br />
horseshoes.<br />
Christian Declercq / KM Cero<br />
But no approach to ancient Peru would be<br />
complete without the connection with the great<br />
leading star: the community. The passengers may<br />
enjoy wonderful stories passed on from generation<br />
to generation told by the residents themselves,<br />
participate in traditional ceremonies such as the<br />
Tribute to Mother Earth, learn more about their<br />
customs such as knitting, and delight their palate<br />
with typical dishes from every place prepared with<br />
traditional ingredients.<br />
The ‘Qhapaq Camp’ concept is part of the new<br />
‘Explore the Inca Trail’ program, a seven-day trek<br />
between Ancash and Huanuco, traveling more<br />
than 60 km of the route on the Huanuco Pampa<br />
– Huamachuco stretch. In the future it will be<br />
implemented, to the extent possible, in experiences<br />
that cover sections of the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>, so that it<br />
can be an example of work for other treks.<br />
Kevin Floerke<br />
Overnight near<br />
wonderful<br />
archaeological sites.<br />
Rodrigo Cabrera / KM Cero<br />
Walking with a<br />
group of llamas<br />
is one of the<br />
differential<br />
elements of<br />
this experience.<br />
75
COLOMBIA<br />
To see more details of the<br />
Castillo-Huanuco Pampa route,<br />
go to page 38<br />
ECUADOR<br />
PERU<br />
Aypate<br />
Cajamarca<br />
Trujillo<br />
Marcahuamachuco<br />
BRASIL<br />
In this map, you can see the route of<br />
our programme ‘Explore the Great<br />
Inca Trail’ and other walks to work<br />
under the concept ‘Qhapaq Camp.’<br />
Huaraz<br />
Castillo<br />
Colpa<br />
Huanuco Pampa<br />
Huarautambo<br />
OCÉANO<br />
PACÍFICO<br />
LIMA<br />
Pachacamac<br />
Apu<br />
Pariacaca<br />
Hatun Xauxa<br />
Vitcos<br />
Tambo<br />
Colorado<br />
Huaytara<br />
Vilcashuaman<br />
Choquequirao<br />
CUSCO<br />
BOLIVIA<br />
Caracoto<br />
MAP KEY<br />
Sillustani<br />
PUNO<br />
Chucuito<br />
The Great Inca Trail Expedition route<br />
‘Explore The Great Inca Trail’ programme<br />
Archaeological sites<br />
Next ‘Qhapaq Camp’ products<br />
Future sections to explore<br />
REGIONS OF TAHUANTINSUYO<br />
Chinchaysuyo<br />
Antisuyo<br />
Contisuyo<br />
Collasuyo<br />
CHILE
BELMOND HOTEL RIO SAGRADO, SACRED VALLEY<br />
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© 2017 Belmond Management Ltd. Belmond is a registered trademark.
EXPATRIATE<br />
NICK STANZIANO<br />
& JOHN LEIVERS<br />
78
NICK STANZIANO AND JOHN LEIVERS<br />
HAVE A SPECIAL CONNECTION WITH<br />
THE ANDES. THAT PASSION FOR<br />
THE PERUVIAN SIERRA AND THE<br />
QHAPAQ ÑAN LED THEM TO START AN<br />
EXPEDITION OF ALMOST FIVE MONTHS<br />
THROUGH THIS MAGNIFICENT JEWEL OF<br />
INCA ARCHITECTURE AND ENGINEERING.<br />
What brought you to Peru?<br />
Nick: I am from California, and people there have<br />
a notion about Peru, the Andes, Machu Picchu<br />
and the Incas; with stories like Hiram Bingham<br />
or Indiana Jones. In 2005, I travelled to Cusco to<br />
study Spanish, and in March of that year, I went<br />
to work in Ollantaytambo. I was there for four<br />
months, but I returned in 2009. My father always<br />
had many concepts about Peru since his youth,<br />
but he could never come. I did it for him to start<br />
a life, a family.<br />
John: I have been here for 26 years. I used to be<br />
part of a very large British travel company, and I<br />
was in charge of destinations in Africa, Asia, and<br />
South America. I arrived at the beginning of 1991<br />
and hiked through Manu, Iquitos and Cusco. After<br />
the company went bankrupt, I became more<br />
interested in what the expeditions were. I worked<br />
as a tour guide to earn money, but at the same<br />
time, I was exploring other remote parts of Peru<br />
to learn the culture of those little-documented<br />
places.<br />
Nick, you once mentioned that Qhapaq<br />
<strong>Ñan</strong> is a ‘physical experience’ of history,<br />
what do you mean by that?<br />
Nick: History and archeology consist of looking<br />
back and interpreting what people thought and<br />
did. What we have today are static experiences:<br />
buildings or archaeological sites that you can only<br />
Christian Declercq / KM Cero<br />
79
John was<br />
Nick’s<br />
right hand<br />
throughout<br />
the<br />
expedition.<br />
Rodrigo Cabrera / KM Cero<br />
Kevin Floerke<br />
see, not hear or feel. The Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> is different:<br />
it allows you to move through an Inca construction<br />
and feel its effect on the whole body. You are<br />
experiencing the culture at a much deeper level.<br />
You walked five months along the Qhapaq<br />
<strong>Ñan</strong> in this expedition, what is the best<br />
you saw?<br />
John: I worked as an engineer for a while, so<br />
what I appreciate the most is how difficult it<br />
must have been to build it. The Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> is<br />
a masterpiece of engineering; it is a great way<br />
made under the most challenging circumstances<br />
and in the most complicated terrain of the planet.<br />
Basically, the Inca empire became powerful and<br />
expanded due to the quality of this road system.<br />
John’s knowledge of the Andean world comes<br />
from both books and personal experience.<br />
What is the main potential of this<br />
expedition?<br />
Nick: Create awareness. The more aware society<br />
is of what their assets represent, the more they<br />
will know about their origins. That’s what history<br />
does; it connects you with your past. And the<br />
Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> is a central part of what Peru is. If we<br />
do not honour it or understand it, we will have a<br />
limited vision about it.<br />
John: I see it as a great opportunity to<br />
develop tourism for the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong> and, most<br />
importantly, for its conservation. Behind this,<br />
there were two objectives: one is to draw the<br />
attention of the people so that they know it,<br />
recognize its value, and that motivates them to<br />
protect it. The other is to encourage the use of<br />
the road through walks so that it does not get<br />
lost in oblivion. Both go hand in hand.<br />
Nick, what is the main lesson you<br />
learned from this experience?<br />
Nick: Taking one day at a time. When you’re<br />
walking, you can only plan an hour ahead. I<br />
have also learned that life is more peaceful than<br />
it seems. If you think that trekking through the<br />
Andes is a dangerous activity, I assure you that it<br />
is more peaceful than you think.<br />
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You describe yourself as an “explorer”,<br />
what do you need to be one?<br />
John: You have to be crazy (laughs). You need an<br />
adventurous spirit, be willing to make sacrifices<br />
and have a ‘strong mind’. People say that the most<br />
important thing is to have water and a tent, but<br />
the most important thing is mental. If you have a<br />
strong mind, you will be able to survive anywhere,<br />
under any condition, surrounded by anyone,<br />
without water, without food or shelter. You need<br />
to find a way to resist all that pressure on your<br />
shoulders, and it’s not easy at all.<br />
Do you think that this experience has<br />
helped you understand more of Peru?<br />
Nick: It’s more about being able to see ancient<br />
Peru. 100 years ago this road system was there.<br />
These are roads that endure from generation to<br />
generation and, to understand each town, we must<br />
understand the Qhapaq <strong>Ñan</strong>. Somehow I started<br />
travelling because of that desire to investigate,<br />
and Peru is a place to let loose those instincts of<br />
exploration. Once you know the language, you<br />
can integrate into society, and that allows you to<br />
appreciate everything in a much deeper level.<br />
With so many years travelling through<br />
Peru, do you still feel like a foreigner?<br />
John: I never feel like a foreigner, because<br />
nationality means nothing to me. We are all<br />
different, and we need to educate ourselves to<br />
get along well with each other. I always try to<br />
work with local people, go to food festivals, show<br />
respect towards the communities so that they also<br />
respect others. When I travel, I solely see myself as<br />
another human being walking a path.<br />
Kevin Floerke<br />
The primary<br />
objective of<br />
the expedition<br />
was to create<br />
awareness<br />
about the<br />
importance of<br />
this heritage.<br />
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CALENDAR<br />
Diffusion<br />
RALLY<br />
DAKAR<br />
After four years of absence, the Dakar Rally<br />
will be held in Peru from January 6th to<br />
11th, 2018, departing from Lima. The event<br />
will pass through the cities of Pisco and San<br />
Juan de Marcona in Ica, Arequipa and Puno,<br />
and then continue its route through Bolivia<br />
and Argentina. Ask your specialist about the<br />
programme for Dakar fans.<br />
Diffusion<br />
CALENDAR<br />
Pope Francis will visit Peru from January 18th<br />
to 21st, 2018, in a journey that includes the<br />
cities of Lima, Puerto Maldonado and Trujillo.<br />
This is the first visit of a Supreme Pontiff in 30<br />
years since John Paul II arrived in the country in<br />
1988. Consult with your representative about<br />
the LimaTours programme created especially<br />
for this extraordinary event.<br />
NATIONAL<br />
MARINERA<br />
COMPETITION<br />
Crystal Cruises<br />
The Celebration in honour of the Candelaria<br />
Virgin is the largest cultural event in Peru,<br />
declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of<br />
Humanity in 2014. The central day is February<br />
2nd when the Mestizo Dance Contest takes<br />
place, and several dances such as Morenada,<br />
Diablada, Caporales and Wacawaca are<br />
displayed.<br />
POPE<br />
FRANCIS IN<br />
PERU<br />
During the last week of January, the northern<br />
city of Trujillo dresses up for the National<br />
Marinera Contest that brings together<br />
hundreds of dancers and attendees from<br />
around the world. Marinera is one of the most<br />
popular dances in the country, where mischief<br />
and flirtation shine in the dancers’ pair.<br />
CANDELARIA<br />
PARTY<br />
LimaTours<br />
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