UJ #14 - Qhapac Ñan

REDISCOVERING THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE INCAS
Ximena Arrieta
After attending an interesting history lesson,
we returned to the walled road on the way to
Quenhuajirca. The landscape changes as we ascend
from 3,000 m.a.s.l., showing how skillfully the Inca
builders adapted to the Andean geography. The
trees begin to disappear, the green pastures are
replaced by ichu and flowers become thorny plants
fit to live in the cold puna region. But not all changes
are pleasant, as the route also shows how the snowcapped
peaks are losing their white summits, as
silent victims of climate change.
Stairways are
common in high
highland areas,
to facilitate
the climbing of
mountains.
DAY 2
THANKING THE
PACHAMAMA
(MOTHER EARTH)
The Qhapaq Ñan is almost intact in the high areas.
We ascended to the Wagapunta mountain pass, with
wonderfully preserved steps that bring you back in
time with their loftiness. At the highest point, nearly
4,500 m.a.s.l., an apacheta – a pile of stones with
religious purposes– marks the place to thank the
Pachamama for the opportunity of getting in touch
with nature, far for the city and totally disconnected.
At our destination, we camped at the foot of the
ushnu of the Quenhuajirca tambo. Temperature
Walking with John Leivers, an Australian adventurous
expeditionary, is like walking with a book under the
arm. Aged 65, he is not only able to walk thousands of
kilometers without faltering, but he has a prodigious
memory and remembers every inch of the Qhapaq
Ñan he has traveled more than once.
Leaving behind the camp in Soledad de Tambo, John
departed from the trail and it was inevitable not
to follow him. We headed for the colcas located in
the upper part of a deep ravine, the ideal place to
build this type of storages: far from the animals, with
plenty of ventilation and dry air that prevented the
food from spoiling.
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In some stretches, the road is only bound
by stones, blending in with the landscape.