UJ #14 - Qhapac Ñan

DAY 4
BREATHLESS
We knew that the day 4 would be the longest one,
with five kilometers more than we usually covered
in seven hours, but we did not anticipate the
surprises the Qhapaq Ñan had in store for us.
Kevin Floerke
Wild
rabbits
have taken
over Tambo
Grande, on
the way to
Huanuco
Pampa.
The first one was Tambo Grande, an Inca
construction that currently is a livestock pen. John
referred to it many times as ‘Tambo conejo’ (‘Tambo
rabbit’), but we did not understand very well why
until we arrived: tenths of these animals appeared
among the stones and ran everywhere when they
heard our footsteps. A white one, looking very
similar to that in the Alice in Wonderland tale, hid
in a deep hole.
The second surprise came next. The small stream
we found the day before has led us to the Taparaco
River, creating a valley that seems to have been
taken out of a painting. Beautiful waterfalls and
splendid queñua trees run parallel to the Qhapaq
Ñan, which is not bound by rocks anymore and is
now flanked by impressive walls.
The road continued among pampas and wetlands,
perfectly blending in with the surrounding
landscape. Bound by rocks, it can appear and
disappear at times amidst the vegetation. Breathing
became easier, which meant we are descending to
Taparaco, a village built beside a wrecked Inca site.
The valley continues to San Francisco de Isco, a
small community where we spent the last evening.
We had mixed feelings over dinner: happiness for
what we have already admired and few people are
lucky to appreciate, and the sadness of realizing
that the adventure is coming to an end.
Taparaco
river valley.
The Inca
walls mark
the road
following
its bed.
Kevin Floerke
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