UJ #9 - Adventure in Peru

PHOTOGRAPHIC REPORT 

IN THE SANCTUARY: THE ROAD TO MACHU PICCHU 

ADVENTURE 

IN PERU 

SPECIAL: INCA TRAIL 

 

 

/1

INDEX 

EXECUTIVE EDITOR ULTIMATE JOURNEYS 

GERARDO SUGAY 

CONTENT EDITOR 

MARIA EUGENIA DE ALIAGA / KM CERO 

DIEGO GUERRERO / LIMA TOURS 

EDITOR 

RODRIGO CABRERA / KM CERO 

EDITION ASSISTANT 

CAROLINA SAN ROMAN / KM CERO 

COORDINATOR 

GERALDYNE LONGORIA / KM CERO 

ART DIRECTOR 

KM CERO 

12 INFOGRAPHS 

SANDRA FLORIAN 

IN 

PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR 

CHRISTIAN DECLERCQ / KM CERO 

GRAPHIC DESIGN 

MIGUEL SANTAYA / SONIA ARAUJO 

WRITTERS 

JOANA CERVILLA 

IÑIGO MANEIRO 

PAOLA MIGLIO 

DIEGO OLIVER 

THE SANCTUARY 

The road to Machu Picchu 

TRANSLATION AND CORRECTION OF TEXT 

PETER SPENCE 

PHOTOGRAPHERS 

ANA PAULA ALBIN 

RODRIGO CABRERA 

CHRISTIAN DECLERCQ 

ZACARIAS DE UGARTE 

DIEGO DEL RIO 

IÑIGO MANEIRO 

CARLOS CONAN MUÑIZ 

DUILIO VELLUTINO 

EDUARDO PEDRAZA 

ARCHIVO ANDEAN LODGES 

ARCHIVO INTU 

ARCHIVO KM CERO 

ARCHIVO LIMA TOURS 

ARCHIVO PROGRAMA QHAPAQ ÑAN SEDE 

NACIONAL DEL MINISTERIO DE CULTURA 

24 

THE INCA TRAIL: 

EVERYTHING YOU 

NEED TO KNOW 

Info graph 

38

INCA TRAIL 

Special 

46 

INDEX 

52 70 

62 

6/ Editorial 

8/ Updates 

12/ Photographic Report/ 

In the sanctuary 


24/ A modern pilgrimage 

The Inca Trail experience 

36/ Everything you need to know 

Info graph 

38/ Interview with Giancarlo 

Marcone 

Director of the Qhapaq Ñan 

programme: “The road becomes 

the axis to which tourist products 

are attached” 

46/ Continental Journey 

A journey from the Pacific coast 

to the heart of the Amazon jungle 

52/ Trekking in Peru 

Three trekking alternatives 

through magnificent scenery 

62/ Interview with Mario Ortiz de 

Zevallos 

Adventure tourism pioneer: 

“Peru has no end of options for 

all tastes and an incomparable 

combination of nature and 

culture” 

70/ Sacred mountain 

A trek around the most important 

mountain in traditional Andean 

worship 

78/ The Qoyllorit´i festivity 

I am Peru 

80/ Paths of adventure 

A sample of the best outdoor 

experiences in Peru 

88/ Expat 

90/ Agenda 

80 

/5

EDITORIAL 

Dear reader: 

Off the beaten Off the track beaten by the track old by Inca the bridge, old Inca in bridge, the Machu in the Picchu Machu Sanctuary. Picchu Sanctuary. 

The Incas were known as adventurers and innovators who had no fear of building new roads. Because of 

that and in sympathy with nature, they expanded their empire to an unimaginable extent. We at Lima Tours 

were inspired by this adventurous people to enable travellers to come and enjoy the whole range of exciting 

activities that our country offers, such as the astonishing and unconventional treks where mysterious beliefs are 

revealed in the stones. 

In this new edition of ULTIMATE JOURNEYS – Travel in Peru, we present some of the marvellous adventures our 

country has to offer, as well as biodiversity and impressive scenery on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. This route 

was created by the Incas and covers hundreds of kilometres throughout their empire, between the Andes, the 

coast and the jungle, making an impressive network of roads all over their territory. We also include a fascinating 

interview with Andreas Holland, an adventure tourism pioneer in Peru, who left his native London for our country, 

in love with its scenery and its people. 

The Inca Trail experience goes beyond its natural beauty and surroundings. The people with whom you share 

this incredible challenge are a fundamental factor in your enjoyment of the trek over several days through majestic 

surroundings. The local people acting as porters, guides and cooks, and the visitors brought together to 

experience the trek, strengthen and motivate each other when fatigue and altitude demand the best of each one. 

This makes the trip a very personal one, involving the energy of the apus and Pachamama, to meet a memorable 

challenge: Machu Picchu. 

Lima Tours, in the shape of its Pure Quest Adventures division, is the protagonist of all of these adventures. 

Thanks to its extensive experience, we can offer an impressive range of Peruvian adventures anywhere in the 

country. Adventure tourism in Peru is outstanding, and there are other no less famous treks, such as the Ausangate 

trail: a demanding trek to the mountain most venerated by the people of Cusco, or to Mount Salkantay, the ruins 

at Choquequirao and the Cordillera de Huayhuash. But the range of options is far from exhausted; we also have 

sport fishing in the highlands, expeditions in kayak on majestic rivers and expeditions in 4x4 vehicles or mountain 

bikes; examples proving that Peru is a perfect destination for adventure tourism and for discovering places that 

otherwise you can only dream about. 

Enjoy reading and learning! 

Your friends from Lima Tours 

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UPDATES 

UPDATES 

AMANTICA LODGE 

The island of Amantani in Lake Titicaca (Puno) now has a new hotel, the Amantica Lodge. It has 

been built using local materials and techniques and is a response to the islanders’ desire to 

attract a new type of tourist to spend the night on Amantani: luxury tourists. Amantica combines 

a design that includes local elements with the highest quality rooms and installations. The 

guests can share the experiences with local people, discover the history of the lake, see birds 

and constellations, and enjoy high-quality gastronomy. 

Nicolas Villaume 

BUSINESS CREATIVITY AWARD 

PromPeru received the Business Creativity Award 2015 in the Marketing and Sales category, 

for its Y tú qué planes? programme (so what are you planning?). The central aim 

of this programme is to promote domestic tourism in Peru, encourage trips to unfrequented 

regions and facilitate better prices for package tours for those wanting to visit 

the interior of the country.

Elias Mujica 

AWARD FOR THE BEST WORLD TOURISM PROJECT 

The British Guild of Travel Writers (BGTW) gave the Best Wider 

World Tourism Project Award to the Tucume site museum, 

located in the eponymous archaeological complex in Lambayeque. 

This museum was reopened only recently after a refurbishment 

programme carried out by Plan Copesco Nacional, 

which required an investment of 11 million soles. 

CONGRESS OF THE ORGANISATION OF WORLD HERITAGE CITIES 

The 13th Congress of the Organisation of World Heritage Cities 

took place from the 3rd to the 6th of November in the city of 

Arequipa. Talks were given by specialists in heritage preservation, 

urban development and other matters, over the course 

of four days. More than 180 representatives from 55 member 

countries of the General Assembly of the Organisation of World 

Heritage Cities (OWHC). 

Christian Declercq

UPDATES 

MALI PERMANENT COLLECTION 

Last September, Lima Museum of Art (MALI) re-inaugurated its permanent 

collection of Peruvian art. The exhibition is housed on the second floor of the 

Exhibition Palace and consists of 35 galleries containing more than 1200 works 

of art including pre-Columbian items and colonial, modern and contemporary 

works. The jewel of the collection, because of its size (3.5 by 4.3 metres) and 

history, is a painting entitled the Funeral of Atahualpa, by Peruvian painter Luis 

Montero. 

MALI 

POTENTIAL FOR ADVENTURE TOURISM 

The Adventure Tourism Development Index (ATDI) catalogues 

Peru as having the third greatest potential in South America for 

adventure tourism, above Colombia, Argentina and Brazil. This is 

principally because of the adventure sports infrastructure available 

in Peru’s adventure tourism destinations. 

Miguel Mejia

SIERRA DEL DIVISOR 

In Mid November, the Peruvian government 

created the Sierra del Divisor National Park, 

located in the Iquitos and Ucayali jungle. 

The park covers 1’354,485.10 hectares and 

is an area of mountains of volcanic origin 

containing impressive scenery and areas 

where man has never interfered. Studies 

show that it is one of the most ancient areas 

of the Amazon basin, geologically speaking. It 

contains endemic species of flora and fauna 

and is a refuge for several wild animals, such 

as the Bald-headed Uacari (Cacajocalvus) 

and the Jaguar (Panthera onca). 

Thomas Müller

IN THE SANCTUARY 



Christian Declercq

THE INCA TRAIL TO MACHU 

PICCHU IS PART OF AN 

ANDEAN ROAD NETWORK 

CONSOLIDATED BY THE 

INCAS. ON A FOUR-DAY 

TREK VISITORS WITNESS 

THE DRAMATIC AND 

CHANGING GEOGRAPHY 

AS THE ROAD CROSSES 

NUMEROUS RAVINES AND 

RIVERS FED BY GLACIAL 

MELTWATER. ON THE WAY 

THERE ARE NEARLY A DOZEN 

ANCIENT SITES IN A GOOD 

STATE OF PRESERVATION, 

PARTICULARLY PATALLAQTA, 

RUNKURAQAY, SAYACMARCA, 

PHUYUPATAMARCA, 

INTIPATA, WIÑAY WAYNA 

AND INTIPUNKU. 

By 

Joana Cervilla 

Terraces and canals at 

Intipata, at 2,840 m.a.s.l. 

Discovered in 1992 and 

opened to the public in 

1998. 

/13


Christian Declercq 

Before taking this mysterious road it is important to understand 

how it was conceived by the Incas. In other words, to 

have an idea that what we will find on the way to Machu 

Picchu Historic Sanctuary, erected in the cloud forest of the 

yungas, were not built by chance but were used for administrative 

or religious purposes or storage, on a unified system that 

helped the Inca Empire to function smoothly and efficiently. 

Rodrigo Cabrera 

Our starting point is that its organisation was based on aspects 

that were multi-layered and complex; one of these was the dual 

concept dividing the ancient Andean world into zones called 

Hanan and Hurin. These asymmetric, opposite and complementary 

halves took the physical shape of a division between 

north and south, east and west, which governed space and social 

organisation. To this we must add the theory of the system 

of ceques or ley lines from Cusco, proposed by researcher Tom 

Zuidema. The ceques were imaginary lines radiating out from 

Coricancha (the Temple of the Sun, in the city of Cusco). Each 

one of these lines defined the location of huacas or temples 

outside Cusco. In total, the system of ceques divided the territory 

into 328 huacas, whose roles were of a political, social and 

religious order. Furthermore, as the Incas were an agrarian society, 

these lines served to organise the provision of water through 

canals, and to facilitate astronomical observation based on the 

direction of the buildings erected on them. 

The road system was implemented over the natural and artificial 

terrain of Cusco to unify the religious, social and political organisation 

of the Inca Empire, and to manage water use, the agricultural 

year and astronomic observation. 

Thus as well as the man-made marvels on what is more a pilgrimage 

than a trek, we will find geographical wonders, waterfalls 

and a world of endemic flora and fauna.


Previous page, above: The first day 

takes you to Llaqtapata, Inca ruins 

consisting of terraced fields, an 

urban centre and ceremonial areas. 

Previous page, below: One of the 

protected species in the sanctuary 

is the white-tailed deer (Odocoileus 

virginianus). It is also found in 

Argentina, Chile and Bolivia. 

Left: The highest point is Abra 

Warmihuañusca (4,215 m.a.s.l.). 

Right, below: 

Tambo Runkuraqay. 

In the background, the trail descends 

from the pass, crosses the river and 

ascends again to the next pass. 


THE INCA TRAIL TO 

MACHU PICCHU 

PLANT SPECIES: 

2,880 

ENDEMIC 

SPECIES: 

SPECIES OF 

ORCHIDS: 

BIRD SPECIES: 

(23.1% OF TOTAL 

FOR PERU) 

423 

SPECIES OF 

HUMMING BIRDS: 

ENDEMIC SPECIES: 

SPECIES OF MAMMALS: 


FOR PERU) 

75 

ENDEMIC SPECIES: 


FOR PERU) 

33 

23 

SPECIES OF REPTILES: 


FOR PERU) 

25 

156 

500 

9 

• Total length of the Inca Trail 

(Qhapaq Ñan): More than 50,000 

kilometres. 

• Length of the Inca Trail to Machu 

Picchu: 43 kilometres. 

• Location: In the Cordillera 

Vilcabamba. 

• Location: In the Machu Picchu 

Historic Sanctuary, a protected 

area. 

- Creation: 8th of January 1981. 

- Surface area: 32,592 hectares. 

- The area possesses 10 

different life zones. 

- Archaeological sites identified: 

196. 

• Principal mountains: Salkantay 

(6,271 m.a.s.l.) and Veronica (5,760 

m.a.s.l.). 

• Principal river: Vilcanota. 

/15



Right: On the way to 

Runkuraqay, the second 

pass of the day (3,800 

m.a.s.l.) 

Below: Sayacmarca, 

discovered in 1915 by Hiram 

Bingham and located on a 

cliff 3,575 m.a.s.l. 


Christian Declercq



THE INCA TRAIL GIVES 

US THE CHANCE 

TO ADMIRE THE 

COSMOVISION OF THE 

INCAS: DIFFERENT 

ECOSYSTEMS, THE 

FLORA AND FAUNA 

AND THE MANY 

INCA MONUMENTS, 

CULMINATING AT 

MACHU PICCHU 

Ministry of 

Culture workers 

clear the ruins of 

Conchamarca, in 

the middle of the 

cloud forest. 

/17


IN THE SANCTUARY

The ruins of Phuyupatamarca stand at the start of the cloud forest; the vegetation is denser and the climate is hotter and wet. 

Following page: Discovered by Julio C. Tello, Wiñay Wayna is a complex of semicircular terraces close to Machu Picchu. 

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/21



Stone stairs lead to Intipunku, the gate of the sun. The end of the trail, one kilometre from Machu Picchu.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 


/23

A MODERN PILGRIMAGE 

A modern 

pilgrimage 

Trekking the Inca Trail


THE INCA TRAIL TO MACHU PICCHU 

HAS BEEN NAMED AS ONE OF THE BEST 

TRAILS IN THE WORLD BY NUMEROUS 

PUBLICATIONS. FOLLOWING INCA ROADS 

THROUGH THE EXOTIC GEOGRAPHY OF 

CUSCO AND EXPLORING WELL-PRESERVED 

RUINS IS AN EXPERIENCE LIKE FEW 

OTHERS IN THE WORLD. DURING 2014, 

175,000 PEOPLE TOOK THE TRAIL; A FIGURE 

THAT SHOWS US THAT THE TRAIL IS MORE 

POPULAR THAN EVER. 

By 

Diego Oliver 

It is 5 o’clock in the morning. It is still before 

dawn and it is very cold. The porters 

call “hot water!”, to wake up the walkers, as 

they leave a jug of water outside each tent. 

Lanterns are lit. Mist covers the high jungle 

hilltops of Wiñay Wayna, a complex of ruins 

on the Inca Trail and the last stop on the great 

trek to the citadel of Machu Picchu. The cook 

is already making breakfast and the porters, 

hardy men who hail mainly from the Andean 

communities in the Sacred Valley, prepare to 

strike camp before continuing to the citadel 

built on the orders of Inca Pachacutec in the 

14th Century. 

Breakfast consists of hot drinks, fruit, oats, 

bread and cheese. A hearty breakfast is necessary 

before facing this long and complicated 

route. The walk —of approximately 40 

kilometres depending on the starting point— 

begins with a descent down stone steps, lasting 

three hours. You start to warm up after 

only a few yards. The sky starts to turn blue 

and the mist begins to dissipate. Machu Picchu 

is not far away. 

Every year more than 

50,000 people from all over 

the world come to walk 

one of its most popular 

treks. 

/25




Left: Starting point. The 

trail starts at Piscacucho, 

2,750 m.a.s.l. 

Right: Canals at 

Llaqtapata, next to the 

trail. 


We have had three gruelling days of climbing and 

descending steep stone stairways and unpaved 

tracks between 3,000 and 4,200 m.a.s.l. Nevertheless 

it has been worth it. This trail is part of an enormous 

network of roads amounting to approximately 

50,000 kilometres, which once joined the remotest 

parts of the continent to the city of Cusco and was 

used to govern the empire. Information, armies and 

workmen could be moved quickly around this network, 

the central route of which is known as Qhapaq 

Ñan, and the resources of the different parts of 

their territory could be managed by the Incas. 

Along the route are numerous ruined buildings, still 

in an excellent state of preservation, that were used 

for different purposes during the Inca Empire. Many 

are small settlements hundreds of years old, located 

in hard-to-reach places on hillsides, hilltops and 

cliffs, which suddenly appear when the enshrouding 

mist clears. The stone-paved road, complete 

with irregular stairways, connects them all perfectly 

through variations in altitude and difficult terrain. 

The road starts in the Urubamba Valley, 82 kilometres 

along the Quillabamba-Cusco railway line, at a 

place called Piscacucho. From there it runs along 

the left bank of the River Kusichaca as far as the 

Llaqtapata ruins, which is thought to have been a 

sort of resting place for groups heading to Machu 

Picchu. The Vilcanota Mountains rise impressively 

and the curve of the valley reminds us that thousands 

of years ago a glacier passed this way. The 

first camp site is at the village of Huayllabamba, 

where walkers take hot tea to prepare them for the 

chill of the night. 

The second day starts very early. In contrast to 

the first day, the trail now leads up a long, steep 

stone stairway through cloud forest inhabited by 

humming birds, other birds and spectacled bears, 

which are difficult to spot but can appear when you 

least expect them.“How much further?”, is a common 

plea from hyperventilating walkers.“Not long 

now”, say the guides, whose sense of distance is 

certainly not like ours. The climb culminates at the 

Warmihuañusca pass, 4,200 metres above sea level, 

where your lungs seem smaller and your legs 

weaker. Sparse vegetation is evidence of a lack of 

oxygen, little grows except ichu, clumps of coarse 

grass that are an essential part of the diet of llamas 

and alpacas. When descending, you can see how 

the land becomes greener. Queñual woods (Polylepis) 

and flowers appear, together with humming 

birds and as you approach the high jungle the scent 

of herbs fills the air. 

The trail is not easy. You have to be in good physical 

condition, or have great strength of will. The third 

day involves another climb as far as Runkuraqay

27


A MODERN PILGRIMAGE

Mount Huayllanay is visible to walkers on the ascent to the first mountain pass. 

/29


Above and below: Descent from Conchamarca to the campsite at Chakiqocha. 

Opposite page: View from Phuyupatamarca. Alongside, the trail continues; with Intipata and part 

of Machu Picchu in the background, behind which is the citadel. 


Christian Declercq

Christian Declercq


Above: The porters, 

mostly from the village 

of Huilloc, are enviably 

fit. They take the 

lead every day and 

are responsible for 

preparing the camp 

site and meals. 

Opposite page, left: 

Wiñay Wayna is 3.3 

kilometres from Machu 

Picchu and is the last 

archaeological site 

on the route to the 

sanctuary. 

Opposite page, right: 

Intipunku or the Gate 

of the Sun, is the first 

place from which you 

can see the citadel. 

Opposite page, below: 

Temple of the Sacred 

Stone. 


pass, at 3,800 m.a.s.l., after a visit to the ruins of 

the same name. And even if you leave first, the porters 

soon catch up. While you are pacing yourself, 

breathing in time with each step, the guides overtake 

you easily, and instead of trainers they wear 

rubber sandals called ojotas. Born and raised in the 

Andes around Cusco, they are perfectly adapted to 

the altitude and difficult trails of the zone. They carry 

the tents, rucksacks and food, the gas bottle and 

cooker, while you carry just your daysack. 

They are the heroes of the trail and companions 

with whom you develop a close relationship. The 

majority come from highland communities in Urubamba 

such as Huilloc, Soqma, Misminay or Pallta, 

where Andean traditions are still maintained. Their 

mother tongue is Quechua, the colours of their 

clothes distinguish them from the people of other 

places, and their main occupations are farming and 

weaving of elaborate fabrics. The men can work as 

porters on the Inca Trail and over the years have 

established certain rules: the minimum tariff is 40 

soles a day plus tips, and the law says that they 

cannot carry more than 20 kilos. 

The porters cover the second stage quickly because 

they have to get to Wiñay Wayna before the 

walkers, to set up the camp site. On the way, the 

visitors have the opportunity to explore places such 

as Sayacmarca and Phuyupatamarca, which is 

probably the best-preserved site on the route and 

includes stretches of stone-paved road beautifully 

built into the mountain side and a tunnel through 

the living rock. And finally, after descending a stone 

stairway, you arrive at Wiñay Wayna. 

Wiñay Wayna, as we have said, is the last stop before 

Machu Picchu. The camps are set up on a large 

flat area adjacent to Inca terraced fields and the 

excitement of being close to one of the great marvels 

of the world is shared by everyone. The site is 

located at 2,650 m.a.s.l., the sun sets behind the 

mountains and Wiñay Wayna, an astonishing settlement 

that contains dozens of perfectly designed terraces, 

is enveloped in the darkness. The tents are 

lit by lanterns and the travellers enjoy a final meal. 

The stars shine in the night sky. It is 8 o’clock in the 

evening and time to get some sleep. 

Getting up on the small hours is hard, but the end 

of the trek is at hand. You dress, prepare your rucksack 

and have breakfast, and then the porters arrive 

one by one. It is an emotional moment. And then it 

is time to get started. Machu Picchu is not far away. 

The reason for the early start is to see the citadel at 

dawn, when it is still partially covered by mist and 

you can experience the mysticism of Andean culture. 

The trail descends and encourages the walkers 

to step out. And then, without realising it, you reach 

Intipunku (Gate of the Sun), the entrance to the citadel. 

Behind it, as if protected by the clouds, is the 

world’s best-known Inca citadel: Machu Picchu. 

THE PORTERS MOTHER 

TONGUE IS QUECHUA, THE 

COLOURS OF THEIR CLOTHES 

DISTINGUISH THEM FROM 

THE PEOPLE OF OTHER 

PLACES, AND THEIR MAIN 

OCCUPATIONS ARE FARMING 

AND WEAVING 

Christian Declercq




/33


INCA TRAIL PROGRAMME 

4D/3N 

DAY 1 CUSCO-PISCACUCHO-HUAYLLABAMBA 

- Pick up from hotel in Cusco. 

- Arrival at Km. 82 - Piscacucho. 

- Start of the trail. 

- Stop for lunch (Tarayoc), 2,740 m.a.s.l. 

- Set off again. 

- Arrival at the camp site (Huayllabamba), 3,000 m.a.s.l. 

- Dinner. 

- Overnight at the Huayllabamba camp site. 

DAY 2 HUAYLLABAMBA-WARMIHUAÑUSCA-PACAYMAYU 

- The next section begins after breakfast. 

- Arrival at Warmihuañusca pass. 

- Arrival at the camp site in Pacaymayu, 3,575 m.a.s.l. 

- Lunch. 


- Overnight. 

DAY 3 PACAYMAYU-PHUYUPATAMARCA-WIÑAY WAYNA 


- Visit to Runkuraqay, Sayacmarca and, finally, Phuyupatamarca. 

- Lunch on the Chakiqocha sector. 


- Arrival at the camp site at Wiñay Wayna, 2,700 m.a.s.l. 


- Overnight. 


INCA TRAIL PROGRAMME 

2D/1N 

DAY 4 WIÑAY WAYNA-MACHU PICCHU-CUSCO 


- Arrival at Intipunku. 

- Entrance to Machu Picchu and the start of the tour. 

- Free time to visit Machu Picchu. 

- Descent to Aguas Calientes. 

- Train to Ollantaytambo, Cusco. 

- Arrival at Ollantaytambo. 

- Arrival in Cusco and transport to hotel. 


DAY 1 CUSCO-MACHU PICCHU-AGUAS CALIENTES 

- Pick up from hotel in Cusco. 

- Transport to Ollantaytambo railway station. 

- Train from Ollantaytambo to Km. 104. 

- The start of the trail. 

- Visit to Chachabamba. 

- Visit Wiñay Wayna, 2,700 m.a.s.l. 

- Lunch. 

- Arrival at Intipunku, 2,730 m.a.s.l. 

- Bus from Machu Picchu to Aguas Calientes. 

- Dinner and overnight at a hotel in Aguas Calientes. 

DAY 2 AGUAS CALIENTES-MACHU PICCHU-CUSCO 

- Breakfast at your hotel. 

- Bus to Machu Picchu. 

- Arrival at Machu Picchu and start of tour. 

- Train to Ollantaytambo, Cusco. 

- Arrival at Ollantaytambo and transport to your hotel, if staying in 

the Urubamba Valley. 

- Arrival at Cusco and transport to your hotel if staying in Cusco.

35

37

INTERVIEW 

Giancarlo 

Marcone 

Director of the Qhapaq Ñan programme 

By 


Photos 

Programa Qhapaq Ñan 

Sede Nacional del 

Ministerio de Cultura 

THE QHAPAQ ÑAN PROGRAMME STARTED IN 2001 AND WAS THE RESPONSIBILITY 

OF WHAT IS NOW THE MINISTRY OF CULTURE. MOST OF THE WORK THAT WENT 

INTO THIS PROJECT INVOLVED THE IDENTIFICATION, RESEARCH, RECORDING, 

CONSERVATION AND RESTORATION OF THE NETWORK OF INCA ROADS THAT 

STILL EXISTS IN PERU. WE TALK TO ARCHAEOLOGIST GIANCARLO MARCONE, THE 

CURRENT DIRECTOR OF THE QHAPAQ ÑAN PROGRAMME, ABOUT WHAT IT MEANS 

TO MANAGE THIS VAST CULTURAL LEGACY, PART OF PERU'S AND THE WORLD'S 

HERITAGE AND AN IMMENSE TOURIST ATTRACTION FOR LOVERS OF TREKKING. 

What is the culture ministry’s view of managing 

the Inca roads making up Qhapaq 

Ñan? 

The roads criss-cross the entire country; it keeps us in 

contact with all of Peru and, therefore, should be at the service 

of the whole country. We’re working to create a product 

that can be used -by the public that is, and in the most inclusive 

way possible. We want a product for everyone who 

uses the road. From the original users, people who live 

near it and use it every day, who should not be disturbed 

by tourist use, to adventure tourists and those visitors who 

want to walk it just for fun. 

How is its tourist use designed? 

We want to generate multiple destinations with different levels 

on the route. This is where the concept of a cultural 

itinerary arises. The road becomes the axis to which tourist 

products are attached; the road is not the attraction as 

such, but the way in which the story is told. For example, 

on the Jauja-Pachacamac stretch the strategy is to gather 

what this section of the road tells us; initiatives, eco-tourist 

museums, cycle routes and so forth already exist. The idea 

is that the cultural itinerary defined by the road includes 

different cultural manifestations. This is what the project is 

aiming for: revealing the different voices and stories that 

exist along the road. 

Christian Declercq

Trail on the hillside. Retaining walls at Chontay near Lima, one of the best preserved parts of the Jauja-Pachacamac stretch. 

/39

INTERVIEW 

Right: Pilgrims Way 

in the sanctuary of 

Pachacamac (Lima). 

Where the Qhapaq 

Ñan from the coast 

and the highlands 

converge. 

Left: Elevated 

section of the 

road from Cusco 

to Desaguadero 

alongside Lake 

Titicaca. 

THE CASE FILE FOR 

QHAPAQ ÑAN AS 

A CANDIDATE FOR 

A UNESCO WORLD 

HERITAGE SITE 

WAS SUBMITTED 

IN 2013. THE CASE 

WAS MADE BY THE 

SIX COUNTRIES 

THROUGH WHICH THE 

ROAD PASSES: PERU, 

COLOMBIA, ECUADOR, 

CHILE, BOLIVIA AND 

ARGENTINA 

The programme is organised into sections and 

it is clearly impossible to work on them all at the 

same time; so which have priority? 

We are giving priority to the three main stretches 

that were part of the UNESCO nomination; these 

do not include the sections in Cusco, which are independently 

managed: the Aypate-Las Pirqas-Las 

Limas section, from the province of Ayabaca in Piura, 

to the border with Ecuador, which is managed 

as a bi-national project; the Huanucopampa-Huamachuco 

section, part of the original royal road, the 

true Qhapaq Ñan, between La Libertad, Ancash and 

Huanuco. 

Have you seen the first results of this experience 

with tourism yet? 

Yes, there’s one zone where we’re seeing the first 

small products: Huaycan de Cieneguilla, on the Jauja-Pachacamac 

section. This product is aimed specifically 

at Peruvian visitors; we want people in Lima to 

get out of the city of a Sunday and visit two or three 

points on the Inca Trail, such as Huaycan de Cieneguilla 

and the Chontay area, where we have refurbished 

two hundred metres of road. For the moment 

this is just a symbolic effort, but it gives an advantage 

to Cieneguilla, a destination on the outskirts of Lima 

suitable for family activities out of doors. 

What does finished product mean to you? 

Something that has the minimum amount of infrastructure 

for receiving visitors: an information centre, toilets 

and a route that can be covered. The rest can be added 

as required. The other way round won’t work, I can’t invest 

a lot of money without being sure that there will be 

sufficient demand. Investing gradually starts generating 

a cash flow; when the cash flow starts then other services 

will start to appear and the investment will increase. 

What are the main challenges to the Qhapaq Ñan 

project? 

Encouraging tourism with interventions that make it 

sustainable implies a balance between visitors to the 

road and local people. It’s complicated, but we have to 

seek the proper way to intervene, with local people taking 

part in the management of the road. We also need 

to be aware that the State does not get involved in the 

tourism industry; therefore our projects should be designed 

to produce some form of business platform that 

makes them sustainable. 

Another important challenge is to prevent ownership of 

the road ending up with it. Such a strategy can often 

be a good defence mechanism, but it can also kill the 

projects by allowing them to stagnate in time. We don’t 

want it to be just a tourist attraction; we want it to continue 

as a working road.

Do academics find it so difficult to understand 

the coexistence of the different opinions that are 

beginning to form about the road? You have the 

visions of the walker, the local resident and now 

the tour guide and tour operator… 

It’s a difficult subject, but it is just the first step in participatory 

management. The first thing is to accept that we, 

as a ministry, are not the owners of the site nor do we 

have the only solution, rather we are facilitators. From 

that viewpoint, our mission is to encourage discussion. 

We have to give them some space because there is 

always a story, and it has to be as close to reality as 

possible. It should be true, you should be able to see 

and walk it, and in this sense the road is the ideal environment. 

The narratives give this sense of progression, 

continuity and integration, and that is exactly the general 

idea of cultural itineraries. 

TWO FURTHER SECTIONS ARE BEING GIVEN PRIORITY: VILCASHUAMAN-PISCO, 

WHICH RUNS FROM AYACUCHO TO THE COAST AT ICA, AND THE CUSCO- 

PUERTO INCA SECTION, WHICH STARTS IN CUSCO, ENDS ON THE COAST NEAR 

AREQUIPA AND ALSO PASSES CLOSE TO LAKE TOTOCACA IN PUNO 

Above: Paved stretch of the road in Pomata, 

Puno on the banks of Lake Titicaca. The road 

is still used daily by local people. 

Right: In addition to the roads and 

archaeological sites, the Unesco World 

Heritage declaration includes examples 

of intangible heritage such as dances and 

traditional fiestas.

INTERVIEW 

Right: The Ushnu 

at Huanucopampa. 

This is a ceremonial 

platform in the centre 

of the citadel. 

Below: This sector 

of the road between 

Huanucopampa and 

Huamachuco is paved 

and its retaining walls 

are well preserved. 

THE UNESCO 

DECLARATION IS A 

COMPROMISE RATHER 

THAN A PRIZE, LIKE 

A CERTIFICATION 

THAT DEMANDS 

CERTAIN STANDARDS, 

AND THE FIRST OF 

THESE IS PLANNED 

MANAGEMENT 

What impact has the UNESCO declaration had? 

It has had impacts at different levels. One of the most 

obvious is the increase in the number of “world heritage 

sites”. Before the UNESCO declaration there were 

11 sites in Peru and now, including Qhapaq Ñan, there 

are 82 world heritage sites. 

Presence is another indicator. Thanks to this declaration, 

the Qhapaq Ñan project gives the Ministry of 

Culture a national presence but at a local scale; something 

that is difficult for the public sector to achieve. 

The other, related, impact involves experience and 

knowledge. We have made a test laboratory out of 

heritage management. To do so we have covered the 

whole country, we are in contact with people of every 

type, with all sorts of legal landholdings (urban, rural, 

private, communal, public, etc.), and this has enabled 

us to define land management by applying concepts 

such as public use, social use and landscape. 

What benefits have you derived from your work 

on the classic road to Machu Picchu? 

The reality in Cusco is very different from ours, the

monumental nature of the road and the pressure on it 

mean that the effort is directed at creating alternatives 

to a destination on the point of collapse. At national level, 

however, we have to create destinations. 

What is most attractive about Qhapaq Ñan? 

The road itself is not important, it is rather where it goes 

and who uses it on a daily basis. Thus the scenery 

through which the road passes is extremely interesting. 

For example, what attracts foreigners is the landscape, 

working communities and travelling on a road that is still 

in use today. Peruvians are more interested in learning 

about the grandeur of the Inca Road, the science of the 

past and the feats achieved by the Inca engineers. 

The suspension bridge 

at Q’eswachaka, built 

by the Incas, is the 

only one of its type that 

survives today, thanks 

to the conservation 

work carried out 

by neighbouring 

communities. 

/43

INTERVIEW 

“THERE IS A LOT TO 

BE DONE NOT ONLY 

BY THE MINISTRY 

OF CULTURE AND 

MINISTRY OF FOREIGN 

TRADE AND TOURISM; 

REGIONAL AND LOCAL 

GOVERNMENTS ARE 

ALSO RESPONSIBLE 

FOR LAND USE 

ASPECTS” 

What sections do you think have potential for international 

tourism? 

Principally the section from Huanucopampa to Huamachuco. 

We can see visitors in this zone; not many, 

but there are small suppliers offering places to stay, for 

example. Trekkers share information on where to stay, 

where to eat, etc. It’s a section that attracts Europeans. It 

also contains different sites, treks, scenery and people. 

There are sites and tourist attractions in the area, such 

as Chavin and even Huaraz. It’s a long stretch, but the 

idea is to create a macro-itinerary out of the whole section, 

and micro-itineraries as components of it. 

Above: Panoramic view 

of Acllawasi de Aypate, 

a temple that dates from 

the Inca period. Province 

of Ayabaca, Piura. 

Left: View of Mount 

Pariacaca, a sacred place 

at one of the highest parts 

of the Jauja-Pachacamac 

section.

O x y g e n E n h a n c e d T o u r i n g 

“The oxygen enriched cabin is effective in preventing altitude sickness. 

Passengers will feel great cruising even this high across the highplateau”. 

says onboard medical advisor Dr. Dante Valdivia 

Cima Clinic in Cuzco 

"La cabina enriquecida con oxígeno es eficaz para prevenir el mal de altura. Los pasajeros 

pueden estar seguros de sentirse bien incluso en las zonas más altas del Altiplano". 

comentó el médico asesor a bordo Dr. Dante Valdivia 

Clínica Cima en Cuzco 

Alleviates altitude sickness symptoms including shortness of breath, headaches, fatigue and nausea. 

Alivia los síntomas de altitud como la dificultad en la respiración, dolores de cabeza, fatiga y náuseas. 

A higher concentration of oxygen will provide a more relaxing journey. 

Una mayor concentración de oxigeno ayudará al pasajero en tener un viaje más placentero 

Oxygen departure valve 

Válvulas de salida de oxígeno 

Driver Panel 

12v o 24v Solenoid Valve 

Válvulas de 12v o 24v 

40sch Flowmeter 

Flujometro de 40sch 

Oxygen Cylinders 

Cilindros de Oxígeno 

40psi Pressure regulator 

Regulador de presión de 40psi 

Low pressure Oxygen line under bus 

Línea de Oxigeno de baja presión debajo del bus 

The additional Oxygen in BusO2, creates a special 

environment 1000m / 3280 ft lower than the actual altitude 

El oxígeno adicional en el Bus, crea un ambiente 

especial 1000m más abajo que la altura real. 

For more information, please contact your Lima Tours 

Specialist or write us to: inbound@limatours.com.pe 

www.limatours.com.pe 

Para más información, favor contáctese con su especialista 

de Lima Tours o escribanos a: inbound@limatours.com.pe 

/45

CONTINENTAL JOURNEY 

Continental Journey 

From the Pacific Ocean to the Amazon jungle 

START AND FINISH ON THE 

COAST. THE ROAD LINKS THE 

PACIFIC WITH THE ATLANTIC 

CROSSING THE HEART OF 

SOUTH AMERICA IT IS MORE 

THAN 5,000 KILOMETRES 

LONG, OF WHICH 1,413 

ARE IN PERU: THE MOST 

DIVERSE, VARIED AND 

CHALLENGING. ITS NAME: 

THE SOUTHERN INTER- 

OCEAN HIGHWAY. 

Text 

Iñigo Maneiro 

Highland road at the 

so-called Cuesta del 

Borracho (Drunkard's Hill). 

This stretch of the road is 

the start of the ascent to 

Puquio. 


We start in the Peruvian desert, a place full 

of diversity and good cebiche: San Juan 

de Marcona. After crossing the desert plain 

where the Nascas displayed their knowledge of irrigation, 

architecture and art, and a visit to the town 

of Nasca, we start on a steep ascent to another 

plain, this time covered with ichu and four thousand 

metres above sea level. The Pampa Galeras National 

Reserve, which is home to the largest population 

of vicuñas in the world. 

After driving some 25 kilometres across the reserve, 

we descend towards Puquio. We can see deep 

canyons where the vegetation, at a lower altitude, is 

different. This is the first place since we left Nasca 

where we eat a good breakfast, at the farm belonging 

to professor Daumet. We have a long high road 

ahead of us: the chilly plains of Negro Mayo. Before 

then, about kilometres from Puquio, we passed 

the turn-off to Andamarca and the Sondondo Valley, 

where large numbers of condors can be seen, as 

well as ancient terraced fields and stone-built archaeological 

sites.



PLATEAUX AND VALLEYS 

Negro Mayo is an extensive plateau some 4,200 metres 

above sea level. It contains lakes that are home 

to many species of Andean birds, including flocks of 

flamingoes that settle here after their long migratory 

flight. There are also communities of herders looking 

after their flocks of alpaca and sheep. The petrified forest 

of Huanca Huanca, consisting of conical rock formations 

just 200 metres from the highway, is the start 

of another steep descent in to the Chalhuanca valley, 

in Apurimac. 

You can stay overnight in Chalhuanca if you want to 

have enough time to enjoy the cultural and natural diversity 

of this long trip to the full. Chalhuanca is the half 

way point between Nasca and Cusco, it is warm and 

there are several places to stay. The next day we continue 

on the way to Abancay, but first we go to Yacca 

to see the old hacienda and enjoy the country food, 

as well as another diversion to the colonial bridge at 

Pachachaca. Abancay has an excellent climate and 

an old tradition of immigration from Italy, hence the 

popularity of home-made pasta among local families. 

This has produced a particular type of regional cuisine, 

which you can try in the city. 

Leaving Abancay we begin a long climb within sight of 

the impressive Mount Ampay. Then through the pass 

and into the extensive and beautiful Curahuasi valley. 

We take the turn-off to Cachora, which takes us to 

Choquequirao and an interesting archaeological site: 

Saywite, just off the road. Curahuasi produces the 

best aniseed and linseed in Peru; you can buy them 

from stalls along the road. 

We will follow the River Apurimac as far as the bridge 

at Cunyac, on the boundary with the Department of 

Cusco. In the warm Limatambo valley we visit the ruins 

at Tarawasi, the plains of Anta and take the turn-off to 

Urubamba. Cusco awaits with a festive and cosmopolitan 

atmosphere, as well as its extraordinary historic 

and archaeological riches. This is where you can 

spend a second night before continuing to the jungle. 

Our route continues on the road to Puno. It includes 

the beautiful churches on the Andean Baroque Trail: 

Left: Contrast to other 

Andean camelids, vicuñas 

and guanacos are not 

domesticated. Pampa 

Galeras Barbara d’Achille 

National Reserve is their 

largest refuge in Peru. 

Right: Petrified forest of 

Huanca Huanca in Negro 

Mayo, 4,200 m.a.s.l. 

Ernesto Benavides 


Left: During the colonial period, the Yacca estate 

was one of the best sugar producers in the area. 

The old hacienda can be visited today. 

Right: Inca stone at Saywite, bearing more than 

200 carved images, was probably the centre of a 

water cult. It is 2.30 metres high and 4 metres in 

diameter. 

/47

CONTINENTAL JOURNEY 

IGLESIAWASICHAY, AT 

THE JESUIT CHURCH AT 

MARCAPATA (BETWEEN 

CUSCO AND PUERTO 

MALDONADO). ITS 

PURPOSE IS TO PROVIDE 

NEW THATCH FOR THE 

CHURCH ROOF EVERY 

FOUR YEARS; BUT THE 

TRADITION DATES 

BACK TO PRE-HISPANIC 

TIMES. IT LASTS 7 DAYS 

AND PEOPLE FROM TEN 

COMMUNITIES TAKE PART 



Andahuaylillas, Huaroy Canincunca, which are worth 

stopping to see. Urcos, together with the last church 

mentioned, marks the end of the fourth stage of the 

Southern Inter-Ocean Highway. The turn-off to Madre 

de Dios and Brazil is just beyond it. 

We start the climb to Abra Cuyuni, which provides impressive 

views of the mountains and River Vilcanota. 

Crossing the pass at 4,185 metres above sea level, 

brings us to the Ocongate valley, from which we can 

see Mount Ausangate, the highest peak in Cusco. The 

Cuyuni roadhouse belonging to the concessionaire 

responsible for maintaining the highway, is an excellent 

place to stop for a coffee or coca-leaf tea, or to try the 

local cheese. The road takes us the length of the valley, 

with its small communities of farmers and herders. If 

necessary, Ocongate is a good place to stay at the 

Ausangate roadhouse, before the next stop in Quincemil. 

The route then climbs to Abra Pirhuayani, at 4,735 

metres above sea level the highest point on the whole 

journey. 

There follows a long descent into the Amazon jungle 

through an infinity of different types of scenery. We 

pass Marcapata with its adobe church, Inambari where 

the road from Puno joins this one, and Quincemil, the 

mid-point of this stretch of the Inter-Ocean Highway, 

before stopping for the night at La Casona. Quincemil 

is surrounded by cloud forest, rich in orchids and birds. 

Our journey continues as far as Puerto Maldonado. We 

continue to descend and the jungle becomes more 

exuberant, until we reach the capital of the Department 

of Madre de Dios. There are many lodges to choose 

from close to the rivers, where we can experience different 

aspects of biodiversity. We cross the longest 

bridge in Peru and continue to Iñapari, passing small 

villages of farmers who also survive from hunting, fishing 

and gathering. We are in the heart of the jungle full 

of enormous chestnut trees, which can only be found 

in this part of the world, on the frontier between Peru, 

Brazil and Bolivia. 

Left: The highest point on the journey; from here the trail 

descends towards the high jungle. 

Opposite page: Quincemil, in the district of Camanti, is one 

of the rainiest places on the planet and, thanks to that, one 

of the most biodiverse.

IÑANPARI 

AIRPORT ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE 

STAGE 1 STAGE 2 STAGE 3 STAGE 4 

STAGE 5 STAGE 6 

STAGE 7 

PUERTO 

MALDONADO 

PLANCHON 

to lima 

ANDAHUAYLAS 

AMPAY NATIONAL 

SANCTUARY 

SAYWITE 

MOLLEPATA 

ABANCAY 

CUSCO 

ANTA 

OROPESA 

ANDAHUAYLILLAS 

URCOS 

OCONGATE 

MARCAPATA 

QUINCEMIL 

INAMBARI 

TAMBOPATA 

NATIONAL RESERVE 

ICA 

ANDAMARCA 

PUQUIO 

CHALHUANCA 

to puno 

NASCA 

PAMPA GALERAS 

BARBARA DE ACHILLE 

NATIONAL RESERVE 

SAN JUAN 

DE MARCONA PORT 

to arequipa 

pacific 

ocean 



For more information 

www.survial.com.pe 

www.nazcacusco.com 

www.iirsasur.com.pe 

/49

Hike, Bike & Eat 

through Croatia 

Hike, bike and kayak the Croatian landscape, 

and taste the best local food and wine Croatia 

has to offer with a tantalising gastronomy tour! 

We not only 

understand but embrace 

our destinations’ vibrant cultures, diverse 

landscapes, traditions & climates! 

For more infomation about how our collection of specialised travel 

inbound operators can expertly craft adventure travel services visit us at 

PureQuest.com or email at info@PureQuest.com 

ACTIVI 

TY 

LEVEL 

DAY 

1 

- ZAGREB 

- Hands-on culinary course 

DAY 2 - ZAGREB / ZAGORJE 

- Fish & food market guided tour 

- Štrukli cooking & wine tasting 

- Hike through the Zagorje hills 

- Traditional Zagorje village meal 

DAY 3 - GORSKI KOTAR 

- Hands-on foraging tips in Gorski 

Kotar 

- Tree planting 

- Cycling through local villages 

- Cooking demonstration of local 

surprise specialties 

DAY 

4 

- UČKAČ 

- 2 hour hike of the Učka Nature Park 

- ATV tour and wine-tasting in Istria 

DAY 5 - OPATIJA 

- Exploring Veliki Brijun Island by bike 

- Cooking class in Opatija 

DAY 6 - PAKLENICA 

- Hiking, Paklenica National Park 

- Visit Nin Saltworks Park 

DAY 7 - ZADAR 

- Prosciutto sampling 

- Biking through the National Park Krka 

DAY 8 - SPLIT 

- Split gastro tour 

- Pelješac wine & oyster tastings 

DAY 9 - DUBROVNIK 

- Sea kayaking along the Adriatic coast 

- Cooking class & dinner, Konavle 

ACTIVITY LEVEL 

ALTITUDE: 

max 3200 metres 

Explore China’s icons, and yet to be 

discovered treasures. Learn traditional Chinese 

skills and gain new photography expertise! 

China Multi-Sport 

from the Great Wall to the Tiger Leaping Gorge 

DAY 

1 

- BEIJING - Visit Chinese Imperial Palace 

- Visit the Hutongs 

- Visit local family to learn kite-making 

DAY 

5 - JIUZHAIGOU - Hike Jiuzhaigou National Park 

- Small workshop on landscape 

photography 

- Visit Leshan Mountain 

- Walk Jinli Street for a night 

photography seminar 

- Visit Tibetan museum 

DAY 2 - GREAT WALL 

- Hike the Mutianyu section 

- Visit the Summer Palace 

DAY 3 - XI´AN 

- Visit the Terracotta Warriors 

- Bike the Xi’an City Wall 

- Visit Muslim Quarter 

- Dumpling banquet 

DAY 4 - JIUZHAIGOU 

- Visit a Tibetan family for dinner 

DAY 6 - SONGPAN 

- Horseback ride through 

Songpan countryside 

DAY 7 - CHENGDU 

- Visit a local park to sample a 

typical Chengdu weekend 

- Watch a Sichuan Opera 

DAY 8 - CHENGDU 

- Volunteer at the Panda 

Breeding Centre 

DAY 9 - LIJIANG 

- Early morning Taichi practice 

DAY 10/11 

- TIGER LEAPING GORGE TREK 

DAY 12 - SHAXI 

- Visit Shaxi Ancient Town 

- Visit Shibaoshan Grottoes 

DAY 13 - DALI 

- Visit local Dali villages 

- Tour the lakeside by bike

51

TREKKING IN PERU

Zacarias de Ugarte 

A SELECTION OF THE 

BEST WALKS AVAILABLE 

IN PERU. THESE ROUTES, 

WHICH INVOLVE BETWEEN 

FIVE AND EIGHT HOURS 

WALKING EACH DAY, 

COMBINE PHYSICAL 

EFFORT AND ADVENTURE 

WITH UNSPOILED 

NATURE, COMMUNITIES 

WITH ANCIENT 

CULTURAL TRADITIONS 

AND BEAUTIFUL 

ARCHAEOLOGICAL 

REMAINS. 

By 


Trekking in 

Peru 

Three alternative routes 

The Salkantay option is 

considered one of the 

world's most spectacular 

treks. 

/53

TREKKING IN PERU 

Ana Paula Albin 

BASIC EQUIPMENT 

- SMALL BACKPACK 

- HEADLAMP 

- TREKKING SHOES 

- WARM AND 

WATERPROOF JACKET 

- THERMAL T-SHIRTS 

- CAP AND SUN 

GLASSES 

- SUNSCREEN 



SALKANTAY: 

THE GREAT DESCENT 

Salkantay is the second highest mountain in Cusco, 

and its name, salqa, means wild. It is an impressive 

snow-covered peak and at 6,271 metres, it is visible 

throughout the first day of the trek. It is a long way off 

but looks close enough to touch during the gentle 

ascent to Salkantaypampa (4,100 m.a.s.l. ), site of the 

first camp. 

This comes after leaving Cusco on the Southern Inter-Ocean 

Highway towards Abancay and the coast, 

crossing the plains of Anta, breadbasket of the Imperial 

City. You then reach the warmth of the River 

Apurimac valley and Limatambo. There is fruit, and 

archaeological sites such as Tarawasi and haciendas 

dating from the 16th Century. For example, Sondor 

and Mollepata. This is the start of the route from 

Salkantay, although some go as far as Soraypampa 

before starting the trek. 

On the first night even the sky is closer. The camp site 

is on a rocky plateau surrounded by snow-capped 

mountains; it is spacious and adequately protected. 

The peaks loom among the stars and the universe 

of constellations forming part of Andean cosmology 

can be seen. The following day brings five hours of 

walking and the 4,600-metre Salkantaycasa pass. On 

the way up, the ichu grass is replaced by black rock 

formations and more and more snow. 

Through the pass seems like another world – a parallel 

universe. Mountains that stretch to the horizon, 

ever lower, greener and more exuberant. This is the 

start of the Amazon basin. The Salkantay trek takes 

in part of the geographic area of the Machu Picchu 

Historic Sanctuary and the Choquequirao Regional 

Conservation Area. Three great routes leading 

into the jungle. Salkantay is the most direct, a long 

descent through a large number of different ecosystems. 

There are lodges and camp sites as the trail 

descends from snow to the heat of the forest, at the 

Cocalmayo thermal springs and the ziplines at Santa 

Teresa. 

Then ichu gives way to orchids and heliconias. From 

a multitude of birds to the spectacled bear and 

Cock-of-the-Rocks. From the white of the snow to 

the green of the vegetation. And between these extremes, 

the pygmy forest and high jungle. For that 

reason, and also because it covers a section of the 

Inca Trail, National Geographic Adventure Travel considers 

this one of the world’s twenty five best hikes. 

And waiting for us at the end: adventures on the rivers 

and forest canopy, access from the west to Machu 

Picchu or the rail station to Aguas Calientes, 11 

kilometres further on, from which to ascend to the 

historic city. Deity and lord of the Inca universe.

55


Gihan Tubbeh 

FROM DECEMBER TO 

APRIL IS THE COOL 

SEASON, WITH RAIN 

THAT CAN FALL AS SNOW 

ABOVE 4,500 METRES. 

ON THE OTHER HAND THE 

DRY SEASON RUNS FROM 

APRIL TO DECEMBER, 

WITH OCCASIONAL 

SHOWERS, AND STRONGER 

SUNSHINE AND SHARP 

COLD SPELLS BETWEEN 

JUNE AND SEPTEMBER 

Gihan Tubbeh 

CHOQUEQUIRAO: 

THE ROAD TO THE JUNGLE 

This route crosses the foothills of Mount Salkantay, 

in a drier and warmer environment defined by the 

river Apurimac and its deep canyons. The trail leads 

to a huge, beautiful and important archaeological 

site: Choquequirao, and then on to the Amazon basin; 

it includes steep climbs and descents, but at 

a lower altitude. The most popular starting point is 

at Cachora, reached from the Southern Inter-Ocean 

Highway at the turn-off located near Curahuasi and 

Saywite. 

Curahuasi, a wide and vivid-green valley, produces 

the best anise in Peru, and at harvest time the scent 

of aniseed pervades the whole area. Saywite, on the 

other hand, is an archaeological site consisting of 

terraces, stairs, open spaces and a rock, which is 

the principal point of interest. An important place in 

the Inca world and in an excellent location, the site 

has no buildings, just this rock. It bears carvings 

of some of the characteristic flora and fauna of the 

country’s three regions: the coast, highlands and 

the jungle. These regions are connected by delicately 

carved channels along which chicha or blood 

flowed during rituals performed by the Incas. 

The first person to mention Choquequirao was the 

Peruvian explorer Juan Arias Diaz Topete in 1710; 

thereafter, for the whole of the 19th Century and the 

Zacarias de Ugarte 

first few decades of the 20th, it was the destination 

for several expeditions led by Peruvians and Europeans, 

who travelled the routes now offered by 

the Country’s tour operators. Its construction was 

apparently ordered by Inca Pachacutec in the mid 

15th Century, to contain the rebellious Chancas from 

Apurimac, Ayacucho and Huancavelica, or as an access 

and link to the jungle. One of the pioneers in 

opening up this route to tourism is explorer and businessman 

Alfredo Ferreyros, who cleared the paths 

to the ruins by hand in 1975. 

It is 32 kilometres from Cachora, which can be covered 

in four days, camping overnight. You frequently 

see condors, which like to soar over the magical 

canyons of the Department of Apurimac. The whole 

route is at a lower altitude than other mountain or 

Inca treks. The lowest camp is at 1,930 m.a.s.l. at 

Chiquisca, and the highest is at Choquequirao, at 

3,035 metres. 

You can continue the trek to Vilcabamba or Santa 

Teresa, where you can enjoy the thermal springs 

or the zip lines before entering Machu Picchu from 

the west, or you can even go as far as Ausangate. 

A longer trip, designed by Ferreyros, between the 

most emblematic mountains of Cusco, which takes 

twenty one days.


/57


Eduardo Pedraza 


Luis Yupanqui 

ACLIMATIZATION AND 

ALTITUDE SICKNESS 

- DO VERY LITTLE 

PHYSICAL EXERCISE 

ON THE FIRST DAY AT A 

HIGH ALTITUDE. 

- EAT LESS AND MORE 

OFTEN DURING THE 

DAY. 

- DRINK PLENTY OF 

LIQUID. 

- DRINK COCA LEAF TEA 

AND INFUSIONS OF 

MUÑA. 

HUAYHUASH: 

THE HIGHEST MOUNTAINS 

The Cordillera Blanca, in the central highlands in the 

Department of Ancash, is the main destination for lovers 

of adventure, because of the number of mountains 

—several of them over 6,000 metres— glaciers 

and treks. This range contains Peru’s two highest 

mountains, Huascaran (6,746 metres) and Yerupaja 

(6,617 metres), as well as the most beautiful mountain 

in the world according to the magazine Alpinismus 

(1966): Mount Alpamayo (5,947 metres). 

One of the best-known routes is that of the Huayhuash 

Range, a demanding trek that crosses high and beautiful 

terrain and takes twelve days. The main access 

is from Huaraz, from which you travel to Cuartelwain, 

the starting point for the trek, in the Cordillera Blanca 

range; but some trips also start from the town of Huanuco. 

The Cordillera is a mountain chain 30 kilometres 

long, which is the source of several rivers that flow into 

the Atlantic and others that join the River Marañon and 

flow through the Amazon basin; it contains extensive 

forests of queuñas, the tree that grows at the highest 

altitude in the world, while its glaciers feed nearly fifty 

lakes, where some tour operators offer fishing trips. 

For all of these reasons the Cordillera Huayhuash has 

been declared a Protected Zone within Peru’s system 

of natural protected areas. 

For the Huayhuash experience, where the average altitude 

on the trail and at camp is 4 metres and the 

maximum (the Cuyoc pass) is 5,010, you must be in 

excellent physical shape and spend some days acclimatising 

in Huaraz or Huanuco. The tour operators 

also offer shorter treks from four to eight days duration, 

for those who do not want to cover the complete circuit 

of 120 kilometres, as well as other experiences in 

Huayhuash, starting in the highlands north of Lima, 

Ancash and Huanuco itself. 

During the walk you cross nine mountains passes at 

altitudes of 4,300 to 5,010 metres, as well as the Siula 

Grande glacier. You spend the night in the Cutatambo 

valley and alongside lakes and thermal springs such 

as those at Viconga. You also visit communities of shepherds 

near the tourist trail, whose members act as 

guides, porters and cooks. You will share their lives, 

food and medicinal herbs, handcrafted textiles and 

cosmovision, all of which originate in the remote past.

59


SALKANTAY PROGRAMME 

5D/4N 

DAY 1 CUSCO-CHALLACANCHA-SORAYPAMPA 

- You will be collected from your chosen hotel. 

- Visit to the Tarawasi ruins. 

- Coffee break in Mollepata and transport to Challacancha. 

- Trek from Challacancha to Soraypampa. 

- Lunch in Soraypampa. 

- Trek to Lake Humantay and return to Soraypampa. 

- Dinner and camping at Soraypampa. 

DAY 2 SORAYPAMPA-WAYRACMACHAY-ANDENES 

- Breakfast at the camp site. 

- Trek to Salkantay Pass (highest point: 4,638 m.a.s.l.). 

- Descent to Wayracmachay. 

- Lunch at Wayracmachay. 

- Descen to Andenes. 

- Dinner and camping at Andenes. 

DAY 3 ANDENES-LUCMABAMBA 


- Walk in the Santa Teresa Valley. 

- Picnic at Lluscamayo. 

- Trek (1 hour) and transport to the start of the Inca Trail to Llaqtapata 

then continue walking to the camp site at Lucmabamba. 

- Coffee demonstration and tasting by a local family. 

- Dinner and camping at Lucmabamba. 

DAY 4 LUCMABAMBA-LLAQTAPATA-AGUAS 

CALIENTES 


- Trek to Llaqtapata Pass. 

- Visit to the ruins at Llaqtapata. 

- Lunch with a panoramic view of the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. 

- Descent to the River Aobamba and walk to Hidroelectrica train station. 

- Train to Aguas Calientes. 

- Dinner and overnight stay at your chosen hotel. 

DAY 5 AGUAS CALIENTES-MACHU PICCHU-CUSCO 

- Breakfast at your chosen hotel. 

- Tour of Machu Picchu. 

- Lunch at the chosen restaurant. 

- Train from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo. 

- Transport from Ollantaytambo to your chosen hotel in Cusco. 

CUSCO-SALKANTAY PROGRAMME 

7D/6N 

DAY 1 CUSCO-CHALLACANCHA-SOYROCOCHA 

- You will be picked up from your hotel in Cusco. 

- Visit toTarawasi and Limatambo. 

- Stop at Mollepata for a cup of coffee. 

- Walk starts at Challacancha. 

- Lunch at Salkantaypampa. 

- Set off again and arrival at Soyrococha. 


- Overnight. 

DAY 2 SOYROCOCHA-ABRA SALKANTAY- ANDENES 

- Breakfast. 

- Walk from Soyrococha to the Salkantay pass. 

- Descent to Wayracmachay. 

- Lunch. 

- Set off again as far as the bank of the River Salkantay. 

- Reach Andenes. 


- Overnight. 

DAY 3 ANDENES-LUCMABAMBA 

- Breakfast. 

- Walk continues along the bank of the River Santa Teresa. 

- Lunch en route. 


- Arrival at Lucmabamba. 


- Overnight. 

DAY 4 LUCMABAMBA-LLAQTAPATA-AGUAS CALIENTES 

- Breakfast. 

- Walk to Llaqtapata. 

- Lunch at a small vantage point overlooking Llaqtapata. 

- Descent to Aobamba. 

- Arrival at Hidroelectrica train station; board train for Aguas Calientes. 

- Overnight in Aguas Calientes. 

DAY 5 AGUAS CALIENTES-MACHU PICCHU-SACRED VALLEY 


- You will be picked up from your hotel for a visit to Machu Picchu. 

- Free time for lunch. 

- Train from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo. 

- Transport to your hotel in the Sacred Valley. 

- Overnight in the Sacred Valley. 

DAY 6 OLLANTAYTAMBO-PISAC 


- Full day in Ollantaytambo and Pisac. 

- Overnight in the Sacred Valley. 

DAY 7 SACRED VALLEY-CUSCO 


- Via ferrata. 

- Sacred Valley-Cusco. 

- Transport to the airport.

CHOQUEQUIRAO PROGRAMME 4D/3N 

DAY 1 CUSCO-CACHORA-SANTA ROSA 

- Transfer from Cusco to Cachora. 

- Trek from Cachora to the vantage point at Capuliyoc. 

- The walk continues as far as Playa Rosalina. 

- Lunch at Playa Rosalina. 

- Walk continues to Santa Rosa. 

- Dinner and camping at Santa Rosa. 

DAY 2 SANTA ROSA-MARANPATA-CHOQUEQUIRAO 


- Uphill walk as far as Maranpata. 

- Lunch at Maranpata. 

- Walk to Choquequirao. 

- Visit and tour of the ruins at Choquequirao. 

- Dinner and camping at Choquequirao. 

DAY 3 CHOQUEQUIRAO-SANTA ROSA-PLAYA ROSALINA 


- Second walk around Choquequirao. 

- Walk back to Santa Rosa. 

- Lunch at SantaRosa. 

- Descent to Playa Rosalina. 

- Dinner and camping at Playa Rosalina. 

DAY 4 PLAYA ROSALINA-CACHORA-CUSCO 


- Walk to the vantage point at Capuliyoc. 

- Lunch at Capuliyoc. 

- Walk to Cachora. 

- Transport from Cachora to your chosen hotel in Cusco. 

HUAYHUASH PROGRAMME 9D/8N 

DAY 1 HUARAZ 

- Transfer from bus station to hotel in 

Huaraz. 

- Overnight. 

DAY 2 HUARAZ-HUANUCOPAMPA- 

CONOC 

- Transfer from Huaraz to Conococha. 

- Transfer from Conococha to Huanucopampa 

archaeological site and visit to the 

complex. 

- Visit to the Conoc hotsprings. 

- Arrival to the camping. 

- Overnight. 

DAY 3 C0NOC-QUEROPALCA- 

CARHUACOCHA 

- Transfer to Queropalca. 

- Walk to Punta Cacanan ( 4,700 m.a.s.l.). 

- Ascent to Carhuac pass (4,650 m.a.s.l.) 

and descent to Carhuacocha lake (4,138 

m.a.s.l.). 

- Overnight at camping near Carhuacocha 

lake. 

DAY 4 CARHUACOCHA-MITUCOCHA 

- After breakfast, start walking. 

- Return to Carhuac pass and descent to 

Mitucocha lake. 

- Arrival to camping near Mitucocha lake. 

- Overnight. 

DAY 5 MITUCOCHA-KANANPUNTA- 

RONDOY 


- Arrival to Kananpunta pass (4,700 m.a.s.l.). 

- Camping at Rondoy. 

- Overnight. 

DAY 6 RONDOY-SAMBUNYA- 

JAHUACOCHA 


- Ascent to Sambunya pass (4,750 m.a.s.l.) 

view of the mountains Rondoy (6,094 

m.a.s.l.), Yarupaja (6,634 m.a.s.l.) and Rasac 

(6,017 m.a.s.l.) 

- Descent to Jahuacocha lake. 

- Camping near Jahuacocha lake 

(4,050 m.a.s.l.) 

- Overnight. 

DAY 7 JAHUACOCHA-SOLTECOCHA 

- Breakfast. 

- Excursion aroud Jahuacocha and Soltecocha 

lake. 

- Lunch. 

- Return to camping at Jahuacocha lake. 

- Overnight. 

DAY 8 JAHUACOCHA-LLAMAC- 

HUARAZ 


- Route towards Pampa Llamac 

(4,300 m.a.s.l.). On the road forest of queñuales 

are seen. 

- Descent to Llamac village (3,300 m.a.s.l.). 

- Transfer to Chiquian (3,400 m.a.s.l.). 

- Transfer from Chiquian to Huaraz. 

- Overnight. 

DAY 9 HUARAZ-LIMA 

- Breakfast. 

- Transfer from hotel to bus station in 

Huaraz. 

/61

INTERVIEW 

ONE OF THE PIONEERING 

PROPONENTS OF 

THE MANU NATIONAL 

PARK, AS WELL AS 

ADVENTURE TOURISM 

AND ECOTOURISM IN 

PERU. AN INVETERATE 

TRAVELLER, HIS LIFE HAS 

BEEN ONE OF CONTINUAL 

EXPLORATION THAT, 

OVER MORE THAN FORTY 

YEARS, HAS TAUGHT HIM 

ABOUT NATURE RESERVES, 

ARCHAEOLOGY AND 

ROUTES IN SOUTHERN AND 

NORTHERN PERU. 

By 

Carolina San Roman 

Photos 

Mario Ortiz de Zevallos 

Mario has lived in Quincemil for two 

years, in the middle of the cloud 

forest, 4 hours by car from Cusco.

Mario Ortiz de Zevallos 

Businessman and tourism consultant 

/63

INTERVIEW 

Above and below: 

The River Araza, 

in the district of 

Camanti, is where 

Mario spends 

much of his time. 

You have always been involved in the world 

of tourism and adventure tourism in particular. 

Tell us about your experiences. 

I started working in adventure tourism at the end of 

the nineteen seventies. More precisely, between 1976 

and 1977. But I had been used to adventure for many 

years previously; I had been to the Colca Canyon, 

Puno and Cusco, tourist destinations associated with 

adventure, together with other Peruvians and foreigners 

at the start of this activity. I first went to Cusco 

when I was 13 years old and the first time I took the 

Inca Trail was in 1972; there were no other walkers 

except me on the trail and it was an unbeatable experience. 

When did your interest in adventure and nature 

become your livelihood? 

At the end of the nineteen seventies I began to organise 

trips with a group of friends who were starting 

out in the tourism business; and little by little I 

became involved. I joined up with Hugo Pepper to 

form a company called Expediciones Manu, the first 

to organise trips to the Manu National Park. It was a 

true adventure in those days; we took mainly English, 

American and German tourists; the two of us organised 

everything: guides, camping, etc... 

How did you get the idea to operate in Manu National 

Park when nobody knew about it? 

Hugo went there and was so impressed he insisted 

that I go to see the place as well. We were astonished 

and decided that we had to organise trips there.


It was in the early years of the park —which was created 

in 1976—, there were no visitors and few restrictions 

on access, but getting there was difficult. The 

furthest we could go with tourists was the biology 

post at Cocha Cashu. The visitors were impressed by 

the experience. 

In addition to the trips you organised to Manu, 

what other options did you offer? 

We started with treks in Cusco and -very interesting 

at that time: excursions on horseback. We were the 

first to do that. Then we thought that for following the 

tourists mountain bikes would be a good idea; we 

imported the first batch of mountain bikes into Peru. 

Our expeditions left Cusco for different destinations, 

such as the upper reaches of Manu National Park’s 

buffer zone and the ruins near Cusco, including the 

Urubamba Valley. 

At the beginning of the nineteen nineties you 

changed course somewhat. What happened? 

The company was making good progress, we always 

had incoming tourists; but by the middle of the 

eighties, terrorism was affecting it severely, the situation 

became untenable and we closed down; I moved 

to Arequipa. There, I made use of all the knowledge 

I had acquired about bicycles; I opened a distributor 

for the Trek brand. I promoted mountain biking and 

organised excursions and competitions. 

Then you went back. How did you go back to 

your roots? 

Tourism in Peru recovered after 1995, so at the end 

of that decade I decided to go back to Cusco and 

started to develop tourism products with a rural theme. 

Firstly I got involved in an American government 

programme to develop new tourism businesses in 

the Vilcabamba area. I was responsible for a number 

of feasibility studies for the project, working closely 

with local people. 

“I also worked with funds from Swiss aid on an institutional 

development project (Destination Management 

Organisations) in the departments of Arequipa, 

Apurimac, Cusco, Madre de Dios, Moquegua and 

Tacna. In Colca we developed a project to restore a 

Yanque church in 

the Colca Valley. 

"WE BECAME THE 

FIRST ONES TO 

ORGANISE TRIPS 

TO THE MANU 

NATIONAL PARK. 

IT WAS A TRUE 

ADVENTURE IN 

THOSE DAYS" 

/65

INTERVIEW 

"THE AREA IN QUESTION 

IS PART OF THE FUTURE 

VILCABAMBA-AMBORO 

BIOLOGY CORRIDOR. 

IT IS LOCATED ON THE 

EASTERN FOOTHILLS OF 

THE URUBAMBA RANGE, 

IN THE AUSANGATE 

SECTOR" 

Left: The grey-breasted 

mountain toucan (Andigena 

hypoglauca), one of the 680 

species of birds identified in 

the zone. 

Right: View of the River 

Madre de Dios, Manu 

National Park. 

small section of a Pre-Inca road between the villages 

of Coporaque and Yanque. Thanks to this project, it 

is now possible to walk a segment of this road in two 

hours, and it links two archaeological sites and their 

respective villages”. 

Now you are living in Cusco. What new projects 

are you working on there? 

A short while ago I was working with the owner of a 

farm between Puno and Cusco, evaluating the possibility 

of including his property into the tourist route. 

The farm is called Queque Norte and is in Kunurana 

alto, Puno, at 4,000 m.a.s.l. Five rooms in a beautiful 

country house; an excellent alternative for lunch on 

the route, and to stay the night, with a visit to the farm. 

The most impressive thing is how they have achieved 

high dairy production at such an altitude. The owner 

is known as one of the best highland cattle ranchers 

in the world. 

Forty years have passed since you organised 

the first expeditions to Manu National Park, and 

now you’re exploring another little-known zone 

with great potential: Quincemil in the district of 

Camanti. 

Yes, my partner Alfredo Ferreyros G. and I are trying 

to obtain a concession for conservation there. We 

have asked for about 50,000 hectares between 750 

and 4,000 m.a.s.l., including a wide range of ecosystems 

and diverse flora and fauna, probably among 

the highest on the planet, as well as being beautiful 

and easy to get to. The area in question is part of the 

future Vilcabamba-Amboro biology corridor. It is located 

on the eastern foothills of the Urubamba range, 

in the Ausangate sector, where the Andes fall most 

steeply towards the tropical forest. 

“We have carried out several studies to evaluate its 

potential. One, on adventure activities in the zone, 

which is perfect for rafting, mountain biking, rock 

climbing, canyoning and fishing. Another on the tourism 

potential for those interested in natural history. 

Another study, carried out by scientists, demonstrates 

the zone’s impressive diversity. For example, 360 

species of butterflies alone were identified in just two 

months, together with 680 species of birds and 199 

species of orchids. In this project we are aided by 

the Association for the Conservation of the Amazon 

Basin (ACCA)”.

67

PUERTO ENTREVISTA MALDONADO- 

RAINFOREST 

PROGRAMME 

4D/3N 

DAY 1 PUERTO MALDONADO-REFUGIO 

AMAZONAS 

- Arrival and reception by your guide. 

- Transport from the airport to the office in Puerto 

Maldonado. 

- Transport from the Puerto Maldonado office to the 

port of Tambopata. 

- Transport by boat from Tambopata to Refugio Amazonas. 

- Lunch (box lunch). 


- Expedition in search of alligators. 

- Overnight stay at Refugio Amazonas 

DAY 2 REFUGIO AMAZONAS-TAMBOPATA 

NATURE RESERVE 

- Breakfast. 

- Visit to the lake. 

- Lunch. 

- Visit to a local farm. 

- Ethnobotany tour 


- Presentation about the Tambopata Nature Reserve. 

- Overnight stay at Refugio Amazonas. 

You also have your own land in Quincemil. Are you thinking of using 

it for tourism in any way? 

Yes, I’m working on a tended camp project, that is, a campsite for those who 

want to experience camping and nature without having to carry a tent or sleeping 

bag. I will have ten tents, a cooking and eating area and fully equipped 

bathrooms. Apart from that, I’m making a kitchen garden to produce organic 

vegetables, fruit and mushrooms. Everything grows here! My idea is to concentrate 

on growing native mushrooms. 

“The biodiversity of this area is impressive. On my land you can see mammals 

such as tapirs, anteaters, sajinos, martas and armadillos; they all use it, the 

important thing is not to them”. 

How do you see Peru as an adventure tourism destination? 

I see it as a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for travellers, wherever they go. 

There are innumerable options for all tastes; from crossing the desert on a 

pre-Hispanic road, to climbing the most spectacular mountains in the world. 

After the Himalayas, the world’s highest peaks are here, in the Andes. Furthermore, 

Peru has an incomparable combination of nature and culture; that is 

difficult to find anywhere else. 

Which activity attracts most adventure tourists to Peru and which has 

the greatest potential for growth? 

In first place is trekking, then mountain biking; there is much more to be done 

in this sector. Cyclists are impressed by the variety of routes we have. 

“Thanks to roads such as the Southern Inter-Ocean Highway, new adventurers 

are emerging: bikers. Groups come to Peru from Brazil, go on to Chile 

and end up in Patagonia or cross Argentina to Uruguay and Paraguay. This 

is a new segment and we have to take advantage of it. In the high season 

twenty or thirty motorbikes traverse the highway every day”. 

DAY 3 REFUGIO AMAZONAS 

- Breakfast. 

- Visit to a salt lick to see parrots and other birds. 

- Lunch. 

- Visit to chestnut wood and chestnut gatherers. 

- Visit to a salt lick used by mammals. 


- Night-time ramble. 

- Overnight stay at Refugio Amazonas. 

DAY 4 REFUGIO AMAZONAS-TAMBOPATA- 

PUERTO MALDONADOO 

- Breakfast. 

- Transport by boat from Refugio Amazonas to the 

port of Tambopata. 

- Transport from Tambopata to the office in Puerto 

Maldonado. 

- Transport from the Puerto Maldonado office to the 

airport.

69

SACRED MOUNTAIN 

Difficult, high and spectacular, three 

well-chosen words to describe the 

trek around Ausangate, the most 

important mountain in the Andean cult 

of mountain worship followed in Cusco. 

If you're seeking these three variables, 

culture and even comforts on the 

journey, then look no further. 


By 

Diego Oliver 

“I’m from Cusco”, says photographer Diego Nishiyama, 

“and Ausangate, as the tutelary deity and 

protector of Cusco, has always been a part of our 

lives. To have grown up with the mountain on the 

horizon with its white cape, is something you appreciate 

fully when you can finally walk among its 

foothills and feel its majesty”. 

Ausangate is not just any mountain. It is a god, 

an apu, a being that gives life and is also capable 

of taking it. It is the source of water to irrigate the 

fields, enabling Andean communities to grow and 

harvest food crops and so live in this area for many 

generations. Trekking to Ausangate is to experience 

the essence of Andean culture, to walk on sacred 

soil and to understand the fundamental role it 

has in native local beliefs. 

It is also a challenge requiring great physical stamina, 

amid some extraordinary scenery. It is much 

more demanding than the Inca Trail, the most popular 

trek in Cusco, and passes through much 

more difficult terrain. For comparison purposes, 

the highest pas on the Inca Trail is 4,200 m.a.s.l., 

while that on Ausangate is 5,200 m.a.s.l. The route 

passes turquoise lakes, glaciers, glacial valleys, 

moraines and snow-covered peaks that make up 

the extraordinary scenery of the mountains and 

Andean plateaus. 

Shepherds from the 

communities of Ausangate 

accompany pilgrims on 

their route round the 

mountain.

Sacred mountain 

Touching heaven on Mount Ausangate 

/71

SACRED MOUNTAIN 

Right: This route demands 

excellent physical fitness, 

because its average 

altitude is 4,600 m.a.s.l. for 

that reason three days of 

acclimatisation in Cusco 

are recommended. 

Below: The services of the 

four lodges are first class. 

Comfortable rooms and 

good food. 

Diego del Rio 


Andean Lodges 

The most popular trek lasts five days and four nights, 

and Andean Lodges offers an outstanding option. 

The company has built four lodges on the route, 

at an average altitude of 4,683 m.a.s.l. The lodges, 

which have different view of Ausangate, have rooms 

for sixteen people, private bathrooms with hot water, 

and feather duvets; providing comfort for exhausted 

walkers. They have been built to harmonise with their 

surroundings, following the aesthetics of local architecture. 

Services, including meals, are the responsibility of 

members of neighbouring communities, giving them 

closer links to the traditions of the local population. At 

this altitude farming is unviable, so local people have 

large flocks of llamas and alpacas, which are moved 

along ancient tracks. “Most people living nearby are 

herdsmen, the community of Ausangate and its inhabitants 

being one of only three societies of this type 

in the world. The others are the Sami, reindeer herders 

in northern Norway and the Masai, who herd 

cattle on the plains around Mount Kilimanjaro”, says 

Nishiyama. 

The trek starts in the district of Checacupe with a 

visit to a colonial-era church built on Inca foundations. 

The church contains paintings and murals of 

the Cuzqueña School, as well as the oldest image of 

the Immaculate Conception in Cusco and probably 

the Americas. The route then takes you to Chillca, in 

Uyuni Pampa, where the first lodge is located. Local 

musicians welcome you at 4,368 m.a.s.l., with a view 

of Mount Jatun Jampa in the background. 

The next day you continue through the glacial valley 

of Phinaya, accompanied by thousands of alpacas 

and llamas. The route passes the Pjachaj falls, and 

after lunch you continue climbing through an area of 

moraines, glaciers and lakes. A caravan of llamas carried 

your equipment as far as Machurracay Tambo, 

the second lodge. This one is 4,815 metres above 

sea level and, according to the company, is the highest 

in the world. This is where the mountaineers 

start there ascent of the peak, and the lodge acts as 

a sort of base camp. 

“We would say that the normal route is ‘fairly difficult’ 

(AD)”, says Richard Hidalgo, a Peruvian mountaineer 

who has conquered numerous peaks in the Andes 

and 5 of the 14 mountains in the world over 8,000 

metres. “You have a gradient of 60º to 75º some 200 

metres long, which takes you to a huge plateau. De- 

Andean Lodges

pending on the year and season, the snow could be 

“sugar” type, which is too soft and hinders climbing 

to the point that sometimes you can’t reach the summit”. 

The third day takes you to Palomichayoc pass at 

5,200 m.a.s.l., with some spectacular panoramic 

views, followed by a descent alongside the glacier 

to Ausangate Cocha. The day ends at Anantapata 

Tambo, in the upper reaches of Alcatauri Canyon and 

the third lodge, which is the only one built using the 

community’s own funds; further proof that tourism 

can be sustainable. 

Next day includes another mountain pass followed 

by a trek to Lake Kayrawiri, surrounded by mountains 

and with a spectacular view of the valley. Here the mineral 

composition of the hills turns them into a classical 

multi-coloured postcard view of the trek. On the 

trek to Huampococha Tambo you will see hundreds 

of geese, who nest in the slopes of Antay, the craggy 

rock formations of the apu Labrayani. The final day 

takes you across the Anta pass followed by a descent 

to the point where you are taken back to Cusco. 

In the words of Eduardo Pedraza, mountaineer and 

former commercial manager of Lima Tours, the Ausangate 

trail is “for those seeking a serious mountain 

trek”. “What makes it special”, adds Pedraza, “is that 

you walk with the llamas that carry the equipment, 

which is how the ancient Andean people travelled. 

You walk for more than six hours a day and at one 

point climb to over 5,000 metres above sea level. 

Few people have been up to such an altitude. But 

although you suffer somewhat, the spectacular scenery 

is more than worth it. It’s an epic trek, world 

class, for people who love mountains and are fit”. 

“The Andean Lodges project and this route changed 

my view of life”, adds Nishiyama. “I came to 

understand that the apu is our father and as such 

we should love, respect and protect him when necessary. 

The spirituality you feel walking through the 

glacial valleys, conquering the mountain passes and 

Andean Lodges 

Above: Mount Ausangate 

(6,371 m.a.s.l.) is one of 

the highest in southern 

Peru and a favourite of 

experienced climbers. 

Below: Mount Yauricunca 

(4,985 m.a.s.l.) offers some 

of the best scenery on the 

route. The coloured soil 

is the result of its mineral 

composition. 

Andean Lodges 

/73


SACRED MOUNTAIN

Ausangate provides water and food for the local communities' herds of alpaca and llama. Herding is one of the principal 

economic activities at this altitude (more than 3,800 m.a.s.l.) 

/75

AUSANGATE 

PROGRAMME 

5D/4N 

DAY 1 LIMA-CUSCO 

- Transfer from chosen hotel to Checacupe. 

- Visit to the colonial church. 

- Uphill walk to the Pitumarca Valley. 

- Picnic lunch at Molino Viejo. 

- Walk from Molino Viejo to Chillca Tambo. 

- Dinner and overnight stay at Chillca Tambo. 

DAY 2 CHILLCA-MACHURACAY 

- Breakfast at the tambo. 

- Walk from the Pampa Uyuni Valley as far as Lake 

Paloma. 

- Picnic lunch at Lake Paloma or Cochajasa. 

- Walk from Lake Paloma to Machuracay Tambo, at the 

foot of Mount Ausangate. 

- Dinner and overnight stay at Machuracay Tambo. 

DAY 3 MACHURACAY-ANANTAPATA 


- Ascent to Palomichayoc Pass. 

- Descent to Lake Ausangatecocha. 

- Picnic lunch at Astanapata de Ausangate. 

- Walk to Anantapata Tambo. 

- Dinner and overnight stay at Anantapata Tambo. 


Puna, the vegetation of the Andean plateau is the dominant ecosystem in this area. The 

climate is cold and dry, vegetation is scarce and the beautiful lakes are fed by meltwater. 

seeing the flora and fauna makes you appreciate this with every step we take”. 

“For me, the highlight of the trek is crossing passes at more than 5,000 metres 

above sea level, and above all the colours you see on the route, from the white 

of the perpetual snow to the copper colour of the hills”, explains Hidalgo. 

The trek around Ausangate is a more solitary route compared to the Inca Trail. 

There aren’t many tourists and this produces a closer bond with the surrounding 

countryside. Trekking round the most important apu in Cusco generates a 

sensation of awe. Its size gives us a new perspective of things and will certainly 

give you a better understanding of life in one of the most extreme environments 

in the Peruvian Andes. 

DAY 4 ANANTAPATA-HUAMPOCOCHA 


- Walk from Anantapata to Huampococha, passing 

through the Surini Pass, Yauricunca, the mountain of 

colours, and Puruaucas. 

- Lunch at Pampa de Anta Grande. 

- Trek around Nevado del Inca as far as Huampococha 

Tambo. 

- Dinner and overnight stay at Huampococha Tambo. 

Jeremy Cornejo 

DAY 5 HUAMPOCOCHA-CUSCO 

- Breakfast at Huampococha Tambo. 

- Ascent to Anta Pass. 

- Descent to the Pitumarca Valley. 

- Picnic lunch at Congomire. 

- Transport to Cusco. 

Photos: Andean Lodges 

The local flora and fauna are diverse despite the altitude. The yellow-billed teal 

(Anas flavirostris) and Andean fox (Lycalopex culpaeus andinus).

77

79

Diego del Rio 

PATHS OF ADVENTURE

THE CONTINUAL INCREASE 

IN TOURISM MEANS THAT 

PERU NOW OFFERS MANY 

ALTERNATIVES FOR ADVENTURE 

SPORTS. NOT EVERYONE IS 

LOOKING FOR THE SAME THING, 

AND THIS HAS LED TO A NUMBER 

OF DIFFERENT AND INTERESTING 

OPTIONS OUTSIDE OF THE 

TRADITIONAL TOURIST ROUTES. 

MANY OF THE PLANS ARE WELL 

THOUGHT OUT AND STRUCTURED; 

FURTHERMORE, THEY ARE 

PROPERLY MANAGED, WITH 

PRIORITY GIVEN TO THE SAFETY 

OF PARTICIPANTS. FROM VIAS 

FERRATAS IN OLLANTAYTAMBO 

TO SPORT FISHING IN HUANCAYA, 

THESE ARE SOME OF THE MOST 

IMPORTANT AND UNUSUAL 

ACTIVITIES YOU CAN ENJOY IN 

PERU. 

By 

Paola Miglio 

PATHS OF 

ADVENTURE 

Guide to outdoor sports 

Llaullipata forest in the city 

of Cusco is full of potential 

for mountain biking and 

downhill cycling. 

/81

PATHS OF ADVENTURE 

Above: Lakes at Lares, a paradise for 

sports fishermen. 

Below: Impressive waterfalls and lakes in 

Nor Yauyos Cochas Reserve. This natural 

reserve is perfect for water sports such 

as kayaking, sports fishing and paddle 

boarding. 

WHILE SOME 

EAT WHAT THEY 

CATCH, THERE 

ARE AGENCIES 

THAT PROMOTE 

CATCH AND 

RELEASE TO NOT 

AFFECT THE LOCAL 

ENVIRONMENT 

Gabriel Gygax 

SPORT FISHING 

Sport fishing is expanding in this country. Not only on the north coast, where it has been 

practiced for a long time, but in Cusco (the highlands), where fly fishing is popular on certain 

lakes. Packages are available that include activities on Lake Ausangate, in the province of 

Lares and even on the River Vilcanota, where you can fish for golden trout, rainbow trout, 

brown trout and even sardines. Closer to Lima, in Huancaya — province of Yauyos — some 

interesting programmes are available that include lakes Huallhua, Las Rosas, Ashincuy and 

Quillcay. What should you take on these excursions? Well, light cotton t-shirts, both longsleeved 

and short-sleeved, lightweight trousers, shorts and a cap; sun block and insect 

repellent, trainers, camera (video or still), pocket torch and personal medicines. In addition 

to everything else necessary for the journey, some agencies also include fishing gear for 

beginners; ask beforehand. An important point: while some eat what they catch, other 

agencies promote catch and release, so as not to affect the local environment. If you want 

this option then ask before you go. Either way, it is important to respect the minimum size 

regulations: they are obligatory. 

Rafael Cornejo 

THE SECRET TRAIL AND SLEEPING IN THE AIR 

This is hard work - it’s tiring. But it’s worth it. We know from our own experience: it is an 

assisted climb, with steel staples hammered into a 400 metre rock wall. A steel wire rope 

secures climbers for the whole of the climb. It takes about four hours any anyone who is 

reasonably fit can do it. We only recommend that you don’t eat much before the climb. The 

descent is by zipline. The total length of two thousand metres is divided into six sections, 

each more exciting than the last. The final section is covered by rappelling. There is no age 

limit for this activity. More important is enthusiasm and comfortable clothing that does not 

affect your agility. Ah, and the same guys who run the via ferrata (www.naturavive.com) have 

implemented a sky lodge up on the mountain: transparent suspended capsules for up to 

eight people, with rooms where you can pass the night looking at the stars. Not suitable for 

those with a fear of heights.

IMPORTANT 

If you are going kayaking you need to 

choose a level of difficulty that suits 

your possibilities, physical condition and 

experience. These are the official standards 

(Source: Guide to Cusco Region 

by Rafo León, Editorial Planeta). The 

agencies should provide a safety boat 

to accompany every expedition. 

• Level I-II. Rapids that offer some excitement 

but are easy and with little 

risk. 

• Level III-IV. Exciting and with a certain 

degree of risk. 

• Level V. High risk - for experts only. 

• Level VI. Extreme risk: No serious 

company should offer this level to 

travellers who are not specialists. 

Carlos Conan Muñiz 

EXPEDITION BY KAYAK 

Kayak expeditions on the rivers of Cusco are well known. Today though, let us suggest three alternatives 

that could give you a different view of the rest of the country. For example, near to Lima let 

us return to Huancaya and the Nor Yauyos Scenic Reserve, six hours by road from Lima, where 

trips are available on several lakes, including Valley of the Rapids (with its colonial-era bridge) that 

continually challenge explorers. You may also see Lakes Atao and Mayo, and descend the Cabracancha 

rapids. More practice: San Jose Cove, a hidden paradise in Quilca, on the Arequipa 

coast, where just getting there is an adventure. Paddle in a calm sea and visit the caves and many 

unusual rock formations in the area. You will need a couple of days for this trip: in this case, location 

is everything; the kayaking is a bonus. Finally, for the more adventurous there are assisted but very 

safe programmes on the Colca, in the Cotahuasi Canyon (Arequipa) and on the River Apurimac. 

Check the rapid classification on the table included here 

WHAT CLOTHES TO WEAR AND WHAT TO 

TAKE ON A KAYAKING EXPEDITION 

Lycra or nylon shirt (not cotton), swimming 

costume or shorts (lycra, synthetic fibre), 

trainers or special Lycra shoes, sunglasses 

with straps, sunblock, insect repellent, camera 

with waterproof cover; safety equipment, 

though this is generally provided by 

the agency. 

Duilio Vellutino 

Above: Adventure in the 

water. The River Apurimac 

is a favoured destination 

for lovers of canoeing and 

kayaking. 

Left: Kayak expeditions, 

in which travellers paddle 

by day and rest in the 

afternoon on the peaceful 

beaches at Quilca, on the 

Arequipa coast. 

/83


Right and Below: The 

Sacred Valley offers all 

kinds of adventure, from 

the risky to a gentle stroll 

in the fields. 

Diego del Rio 

MOUNTAIN BIKING 

Lima, Cusco and Ancash possess the ideal geography for mountain biking, as well as adequate and secure 

infrastructure. Two types are carried out here: downhill and cross country. For the first we earnestly recommend 

that you have some biking experience, especially if the routes are steep and difficult. Cross country is usually 

gentler and more agreeable; perfect for those who prefer scenery and tranquillity. The ascents and descents 

are not too steep and may even be asphalt or unpaved track. In Cusco, for example, there are beautiful routes 

in Maras-Moray, Chinchero and the Sacred Valley, where you cross green fields and countryside that is only 

accessible by bike or on foot. The views are spectacular. However if you are an expert at the sport, try downhill, 

which includes descents, jumps and natural obstacles. The descent to the Maras salt pans for example, where 

the intensity of this sport becomes apparent. In Cusco you can also go biking in Ollantaytambo, Chinchero, Huayllabamba, 

Patacancha, Lares and Calca. The most popular route for experts is the Malaga pass (4,200 m.a.s.l.) 

to Ollantaytambo (2,800 m.a.s.l.) 

IMPORTANT 

DATA 

• Beginners. Routes 

with gentle 

gradients and firm 

ground. 

• Some experience. 

Moderate gradients 

and a certain level 

of risk. 

• Experts. Steep 

gradients, loose 

ground, risk and 

high altitudes. 

There are also routes in Lima, of different degrees of difficulty and in different zones. Choose between quiet city 

routes beside the sea or ride to the floral village of Antioquia, through Cieneguilla, where the houses are painted 

in different colours and the road also takes you through Santo Domingo de los Olleros to the tuna plantations 

at Chilca; a comprehensive route taking in coast and highlands. Other routes run south, through the ceremonial 

centre of Pachacamac, Calango and Azpitia where the crayfish come from, and Lunahuana for the pisco. Other 

more demanding routes take you to the sacred Marcahuasi and even to the oldest city in the world: Caral north 

of Lima. Finally, if you are going north, Ancash offers sea and mountains on the way: from the mysterious and 

little-frequented beaches of Casma to the snowy peaks of Huascaran National Park. It is also possible to visit the 

ruins at Chavin de Huantar, as well as the sacred Llanganuco lakes. 

Diego del Rio



EXCURSIONS IN 4X4 

We’re off to the central jungle. Yes, that marvellous 

zone of permanent sun and exotic foliage. Surrounded 

by mountains covered with brilliant and exotic 

flowers, and land perfect for farming and livestock. 

This is where the jungle meets the highlands, and travelling 

by car shows clearly the change in altitude, the 

microclimates and the country’s diversity. From here 

you can reach the Tyrolean towns of Oxapampa, Pozuzo 

and Villa Rica, see waterfalls and caves, and follow 

a trail through the coffee growing areas that have 

been producing this crop for more than 130 years. 

Coffee was first brought here by the Spanish, and 

coffee growing was reactivated at the beginning of 

the 18th Century by European immigrants. According 

to Karissa Becerra in Cafe de las Nubes del Peru, 

that the central jungle is perfect for growing special 

varieties; the area produces around 27% of all coffee 

grown in Peru. 

But transport is the first priority. Travel agencies usually 

include everything in the package: Pick-ups, guide 

and lodgings. They also choose routes to include 

places where you can experience things first hand. 

In the case of coffee for example, the final destination 

is usually Villa Rica, where one of the most important 

varieties is grown. This area has also gained prestige 

in recent years, as it produces some of the best and 

tastiest coffee in the country. But before Villa Rica, 

two other towns on the route are worth a visit: San 

Ramon and La Merced. Here, certain farms still belong 

to the descendents of original Italian immigrants 

growing the same fruit as in times past; they take in 

guests who help in the harvest and experience much 

more than just their hosts’ excellent hospitality. Lima 

to Villa Rica is 367 kilometres and the journey takes 

approximately seven and a half hours. The road is 

surfaces as far as Reither Bridge and in perfect condition 

(95%), except for small sections that are unsurfaced 

and under repair. 

367 KM FROM LIMA TO VILLA RICA 

COFFE IS GROWN IN THE AREA SINCE 

130 YEARS 

HERE IS PRODUCED 

27% OF PERUVIAN COFFE 

Fernando Criollo 

Above: Endless adventure 

by 4x4. The central 

jungle offers innumerable 

activities such as 

abseiling, walks to see 

waterfalls, mountain biking 

and others. 

Below: Lush vegetation 

dominates the landscape. 

/85


BIKING HALF DAY: THE BEST DOWNHILL 

Level 

Duration 

Location 

Season 

Departures 

ITINERARY: 

: Gentle exercise, no previous experience needed; there 

are more advanced alternatives. 

: 3 hours approximately, 2 hours riding time. 

: Outskirts of Cusco. 

: All year round. 

: Every day. 

Transport from your hotel in Cusco to Yuncaypata. 

Start of downhill and flat route, visits to a number of communities. 

Visit to Inkilltambo and the ruins at Choquequirao. 

The route continues to Rumiwasi and ends at Las Salineras, San Sebastian. 

Return to the hotel. 

HALF DAY BIKING IN THE SACRED 

VALLEY: PISAC-CALCA OR CALCA 

HUAYLLABAMBA 

Level : Moderate adventure, you should be in good physical condition. 

Duration : 4 hours. Around 2½ hours riding time. 

Location : Pisac-Taray-Calca or Calca-Hurquillos to Huayllabamba. 

Season : All year round. 

Departures : Every day throughout the year. 

ITINERARY: 

You will be collected from your hotel in Cusco. 

Bike route through Taray Calca. 

Return to Cusco. 

FULL DAY BIKING: MORAY AND 

MARAS SALT PANS 

Level 

Duration 

Location 

Season 

Departures 

: Easy to moderate. Cross country off road. 

: 7 hours. Almost 4 hours riding time. 

: Moray-Maras-Pichingo to-Urubamba. 

: All year round. A rainproof jacket is necessary from 

December to March. 

: Every day, throughout the year. 

ITINERARY: 

Transport from your hotel in Cusco to Cruzpata, on the Maras plateau. 

Start of your biking adventure. 

Optional visit to Moray, where you can take a picnic. 

Arrival at Maras salt pans and visit. 

Return to your hotel. 

HALF DAY RAFTING 

Level : Class II, III rafting. 

Duration : 2 hours on the river. 

Location : Sacred Valley of the Incas, Cusco. 

Description : Great views and gentle exercise, no 

previous experience required. 

Departures : Every day of the year. 

ITINERARY: 

Transport to the River Pachar. 

Supply of equipment and safety talk. 

Brief practice on the river. 

Start of the excursion, views of the mountains and 

ancient ruins, Ollantaytambo and its terraced fields. 

Traverse level II and III and end at El Resbaladero, 

powerful class III rapids. 

Leave the river and visit the village of Cachiccata. 

End of service. 

FULL DAY RAFTING: 

VILCANOTA CLASS 3-4 

Level : Moderate to challenging, class 3-4. 

Duration : 7 hours, 2½ hours on the river, approximately. 

Location : South of Cusco: Chuquicahuana or 

Cusipata sectors. 

Season : All year round, between November and 

April rafting on level 4 - 4+ rapids. 

Departures : Daily. 

ITINERARY: 

8:30 a.m., transport from your hotel in Cusco to Chuquicahuana 

(1½ hours). 

Supply of equipment and safety talk. 

11 kilometre traverse of class III and IV rapids. 

Picnicontheriverbank. 

Return to Cusco.

LIMA-PARACAS PROGRAMME 

4D/3N 

DAY 1 LIMA 

- You will be collected from your hotel in Lima. 

- Bicycle tour along the Costa Verde promenade. 

- Visit to the Circuito Magico del Agua water park. 

- Overnight at your chosen hotel in Lima. 

DAY 3 PARACAS-NASCA LINES 

- Transport from the Hotel to Pisco Airport. 

- Overflying the Nasca Lines. 

- Return to your Hotel. 

- Afternoon free. 

- Overnight at the chosen hotel in Paracas. 

DAY 2 LIMA-PARACAS 

- Transport from your hotel to the bus station. 

- Bus from Lima to Paracas. 

- Half day tour to the Ballestas Islands. 

- Half day tour in dune buggies. You can also try 

sandboarding. 

- Overnight at the chosen hotel in Paracas. 

DAY 4 PARACAS-LIMA 

- Transport from your hotel to the bus station. 

- Bus to Lima. 

- Paragliding on the Costa Verde. 

- Transport to the airport to catch your next 

flight. 

Carlos Ibarra 

*DUNE BUGGIES (ICA) 

Off-road tour in the Ica desert by dune buggy. These 

vehicles are built to reach difficult places. When you 

reach the summit of the dunes you can try sandboarding. 

*FULL DAY DUNE BUGGIES PARACAS 

Desert excursion by dune buggy. The trip lasts 

an hour and the driver is an expert at climbing 

the most exciting sand dunes. 


/87

EXPAT 

Andreas 

Holland 

"MY LOVE OF THE ANDES AND OF THE OPEN AIR WERE WHAT CONVINCED ME TO WORK 

IN THIS SECTOR". 

Andreas Holland 

Where were you born and where have 

you lived? 

I was born in England, but when I was 2 I 

went with my family to live in Paraguay. We 

went back to England when I was 12 years 

old. In 1979, when I was 27, I left England 

again, with my partner Rachel and our first 

child Quino, who was 2, to go back-packing 

for six months in Peru, Brazil, Paraguay and 

Bolivia. We travelled around Peru and just 

stayed. We also lived for a short time in Australia 

and now alternate between Peru and 

Catalonia. 

Why Ollantaytambo? 

It’s unique, beautiful and its people are marvellous. 

How did you decide to work in the adventure 

tourism sector, and particularly 

trekking? 

My love of the Andes and of the open air 

were what convinced me to work in this 

sector. It has always been a challenge, 

training my collaborators and developing 

new routes; that’s what makes it so 

interesting. 

By 

Carolina San Roman 

What did you do before you travelled to 

South America? 

My first job was as a mathematics teacher 

in a London secondary school. 

Why did you decide to move to Peru? 

I fell in love with the country and its people, 

and I decided to move here because I wanted 

to explore the Peruvian and Bolivian 

Andes. 

How did you become interested in tourism? 

Once I was in Peru, with a growing family, 

I looked for a way of making a living and 

at the same time indulging my passion 

for Andean history and culture, the Andes 

themselves and my interest in showing the 

wonders of my adopted country to the rest 

of the world. 

Where in Peru have you lived? 

I’ve lived in Ollantaytambo and in Cusco. 

What is your favourite trek, and why? 

An eighteen-day route across the whole of 

the Vilcabamba Range. You visit Huancacalle, 

Ñusta Hispana with its fabulous Yuraq 

Rumi, Choquetecarpo, Q’elcamachay, Mayuyoc, 

Pacchar — where you rest for a day 

and enjoy a pachamanca — Batea Paquisha, 

Lasuñayoq, Collpa, Huayraqmachay, Ichupata, 

Jaime-Pablopata, Chusquiñay, Anccascocha, 

Chancachuco and Ollantaytambo. Just pronouncing 

those names makes me want to go 

back! 

What makes Peru an interesting destination 

for adventure? 

Peru’s the perfect country for adventure; it 

has some of the world’s most impressive 

mountains and thousands of kilometres of 

routes for trekking. Its rivers are tremendous 

and unforgettable and its three regions, 

Coast, Highlands and Jungle, make 

it simply uniquely enchanting.

89

AGENDA 

AGENDA 

NATIONAL MARINERA DANCE CHAMPIONSHIP 

The National Marinera Championship takes place 

from the 17th to the 30th of January in the city of Trujillo. 

This event, which has been held since 1960, is one 

of the country’s major folklore festivals. Hundreds of 

Peruvian and foreign couples take part in the festival. 

ANNIVERSARY OF LIMA 

Peru’s capital celebrates its 481st birthday on the 

18th of January. The celebration lasts for a whole 

week. There are parades, concerts and food fairs 

in the historic centre of the city. 

MARTIN CHAMBI AT MALI 

Lima Museum of Art (MALI) is mounting a retrospective 

exhibition dedicated to renowned Peruvian photographer 

Martin Chambi (1891-1973). The exhibition 

contains around four hundred works —photographs 

and documents— and is the largest selection of 

works from that era ever seen in Peru; it includes a 

group of late photographs that have never been exhibited 

before. 

THE ROLLING STONES IN LIMA 

One of the world’s greatest rock bands will give 

their first concert in Lima, as part of their Ole Tour. 

Apart from Peru, the band will play in another six 

Latin American countries. The concert will be held 

on Saturday the 6th of March in the Estadio Monumental 

and tickets will be on sale at Teleticket 

outlets in Wong and Metro supermarkets. 

VIRGEN DE LA CANDELARIA 

Our Lady of the Candles (Virgen de la Candelaria), a 

traditional religious festival declared Intangible Cultural 

Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO, is celebrated 

from the 31st of January to the 8th of February. The 

most outstanding part of the festivities is the colourful 

dance competition and grand parade, during which 

all the dancers parade in disguise through the streets 

of the city as far as the sanctuary of the image. 

MALI

4/01/16 12:12

Caratula Lima Tours ING mtro.indd 2 

A morning hike, where no one has been before, in the central highlands of Peru.

UJ #9 - Adventure in Peru

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