A MODERN PILGRIMAGE Above: The porters, mostly from the village of Huilloc, are enviably fit. They take the lead every day and are responsible for prepar<strong>in</strong>g the camp site and meals. Opposite page, left: Wiñay Wayna is 3.3 kilometres from Machu Picchu and is the last archaeological site on the route to the sanctuary. Opposite page, right: Intipunku or the Gate of the Sun, is the first place from which you can see the citadel. Opposite page, below: Temple of the Sacred Stone. Christian Declercq pass, at 3,800 m.a.s.l., after a visit to the ru<strong>in</strong>s of the same name. And even if you leave first, the porters soon catch up. While you are pac<strong>in</strong>g yourself, breath<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> time with each step, the guides overtake you easily, and <strong>in</strong>stead of tra<strong>in</strong>ers they wear rubber sandals called ojotas. Born and raised <strong>in</strong> the Andes around Cusco, they are perfectly adapted to the altitude and difficult trails of the zone. They carry the tents, rucksacks and food, the gas bottle and cooker, while you carry just your daysack. They are the heroes of the trail and companions with whom you develop a close relationship. The majority come from highland communities <strong>in</strong> Urubamba such as Huilloc, Soqma, Mism<strong>in</strong>ay or Pallta, where Andean traditions are still ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>ed. Their mother tongue is Quechua, the colours of their clothes dist<strong>in</strong>guish them from the people of other places, and their ma<strong>in</strong> occupations are farm<strong>in</strong>g and weav<strong>in</strong>g of elaborate fabrics. The men can work as porters on the Inca Trail and over the years have established certa<strong>in</strong> rules: the m<strong>in</strong>imum tariff is 40 soles a day plus tips, and the law says that they cannot carry more than 20 kilos. The porters cover the second stage quickly because they have to get to Wiñay Wayna before the walkers, to set up the camp site. On the way, the visitors have the opportunity to explore places such as Sayacmarca and Phuyupatamarca, which is probably the best-preserved site on the route and <strong>in</strong>cludes stretches of stone-paved road beautifully built <strong>in</strong>to the mounta<strong>in</strong> side and a tunnel through the liv<strong>in</strong>g rock. And f<strong>in</strong>ally, after descend<strong>in</strong>g a stone stairway, you arrive at Wiñay Wayna. Wiñay Wayna, as we have said, is the last stop before Machu Picchu. The camps are set up on a large flat area adjacent to Inca terraced fields and the excitement of be<strong>in</strong>g close to one of the great marvels of the world is shared by everyone. The site is located at 2,650 m.a.s.l., the sun sets beh<strong>in</strong>d the mounta<strong>in</strong>s and Wiñay Wayna, an astonish<strong>in</strong>g settlement that conta<strong>in</strong>s dozens of perfectly designed terraces, is enveloped <strong>in</strong> the darkness. The tents are lit by lanterns and the travellers enjoy a f<strong>in</strong>al meal. The stars sh<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong> the night sky. It is 8 o’clock <strong>in</strong> the even<strong>in</strong>g and time to get some sleep. Gett<strong>in</strong>g up on the small hours is hard, but the end of the trek is at hand. You dress, prepare your rucksack and have breakfast, and then the porters arrive one by one. It is an emotional moment. And then it is time to get started. Machu Picchu is not far away. The reason for the early start is to see the citadel at dawn, when it is still partially covered by mist and you can experience the mysticism of Andean culture. The trail descends and encourages the walkers to step out. And then, without realis<strong>in</strong>g it, you reach Intipunku (Gate of the Sun), the entrance to the citadel. Beh<strong>in</strong>d it, as if protected by the clouds, is the world’s best-known Inca citadel: Machu Picchu. THE PORTERS MOTHER TONGUE IS QUECHUA, THE COLOURS OF THEIR CLOTHES DISTINGUISH THEM FROM THE PEOPLE OF OTHER PLACES, AND THEIR MAIN OCCUPATIONS ARE FARMING AND WEAVING Christian Declercq
Christian Declercq Rodrigo Cabrera Christian Declercq /33