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UJ #9 - Adventure in Peru

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TREKKING IN PERU<br />

Eduardo Pedraza<br />

Eduardo Pedraza<br />

Luis Yupanqui<br />

ACLIMATIZATION AND<br />

ALTITUDE SICKNESS<br />

- DO VERY LITTLE<br />

PHYSICAL EXERCISE<br />

ON THE FIRST DAY AT A<br />

HIGH ALTITUDE.<br />

- EAT LESS AND MORE<br />

OFTEN DURING THE<br />

DAY.<br />

- DRINK PLENTY OF<br />

LIQUID.<br />

- DRINK COCA LEAF TEA<br />

AND INFUSIONS OF<br />

MUÑA.<br />

HUAYHUASH:<br />

THE HIGHEST MOUNTAINS<br />

The Cordillera Blanca, <strong>in</strong> the central highlands <strong>in</strong> the<br />

Department of Ancash, is the ma<strong>in</strong> dest<strong>in</strong>ation for lovers<br />

of adventure, because of the number of mounta<strong>in</strong>s<br />

—several of them over 6,000 metres— glaciers<br />

and treks. This range conta<strong>in</strong>s <strong>Peru</strong>’s two highest<br />

mounta<strong>in</strong>s, Huascaran (6,746 metres) and Yerupaja<br />

(6,617 metres), as well as the most beautiful mounta<strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>in</strong> the world accord<strong>in</strong>g to the magaz<strong>in</strong>e Alp<strong>in</strong>ismus<br />

(1966): Mount Alpamayo (5,947 metres).<br />

One of the best-known routes is that of the Huayhuash<br />

Range, a demand<strong>in</strong>g trek that crosses high and beautiful<br />

terra<strong>in</strong> and takes twelve days. The ma<strong>in</strong> access<br />

is from Huaraz, from which you travel to Cuartelwa<strong>in</strong>,<br />

the start<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t for the trek, <strong>in</strong> the Cordillera Blanca<br />

range; but some trips also start from the town of Huanuco.<br />

The Cordillera is a mounta<strong>in</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> 30 kilometres<br />

long, which is the source of several rivers that flow <strong>in</strong>to<br />

the Atlantic and others that jo<strong>in</strong> the River Marañon and<br />

flow through the Amazon bas<strong>in</strong>; it conta<strong>in</strong>s extensive<br />

forests of queuñas, the tree that grows at the highest<br />

altitude <strong>in</strong> the world, while its glaciers feed nearly fifty<br />

lakes, where some tour operators offer fish<strong>in</strong>g trips.<br />

For all of these reasons the Cordillera Huayhuash has<br />

been declared a Protected Zone with<strong>in</strong> <strong>Peru</strong>’s system<br />

of natural protected areas.<br />

For the Huayhuash experience, where the average altitude<br />

on the trail and at camp is 4 metres and the<br />

maximum (the Cuyoc pass) is 5,010, you must be <strong>in</strong><br />

excellent physical shape and spend some days acclimatis<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>in</strong> Huaraz or Huanuco. The tour operators<br />

also offer shorter treks from four to eight days duration,<br />

for those who do not want to cover the complete circuit<br />

of 120 kilometres, as well as other experiences <strong>in</strong><br />

Huayhuash, start<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the highlands north of Lima,<br />

Ancash and Huanuco itself.<br />

Dur<strong>in</strong>g the walk you cross n<strong>in</strong>e mounta<strong>in</strong>s passes at<br />

altitudes of 4,300 to 5,010 metres, as well as the Siula<br />

Grande glacier. You spend the night <strong>in</strong> the Cutatambo<br />

valley and alongside lakes and thermal spr<strong>in</strong>gs such<br />

as those at Viconga. You also visit communities of shepherds<br />

near the tourist trail, whose members act as<br />

guides, porters and cooks. You will share their lives,<br />

food and medic<strong>in</strong>al herbs, handcrafted textiles and<br />

cosmovision, all of which orig<strong>in</strong>ate <strong>in</strong> the remote past.

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