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UJ #9 - Adventure in Peru

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SACRED MOUNTAIN<br />

Right: This route demands<br />

excellent physical fitness,<br />

because its average<br />

altitude is 4,600 m.a.s.l. for<br />

that reason three days of<br />

acclimatisation <strong>in</strong> Cusco<br />

are recommended.<br />

Below: The services of the<br />

four lodges are first class.<br />

Comfortable rooms and<br />

good food.<br />

Diego del Rio<br />

Christian Declercq<br />

Andean Lodges<br />

The most popular trek lasts five days and four nights,<br />

and Andean Lodges offers an outstand<strong>in</strong>g option.<br />

The company has built four lodges on the route,<br />

at an average altitude of 4,683 m.a.s.l. The lodges,<br />

which have different view of Ausangate, have rooms<br />

for sixteen people, private bathrooms with hot water,<br />

and feather duvets; provid<strong>in</strong>g comfort for exhausted<br />

walkers. They have been built to harmonise with their<br />

surround<strong>in</strong>gs, follow<strong>in</strong>g the aesthetics of local architecture.<br />

Services, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g meals, are the responsibility of<br />

members of neighbour<strong>in</strong>g communities, giv<strong>in</strong>g them<br />

closer l<strong>in</strong>ks to the traditions of the local population. At<br />

this altitude farm<strong>in</strong>g is unviable, so local people have<br />

large flocks of llamas and alpacas, which are moved<br />

along ancient tracks. “Most people liv<strong>in</strong>g nearby are<br />

herdsmen, the community of Ausangate and its <strong>in</strong>habitants<br />

be<strong>in</strong>g one of only three societies of this type<br />

<strong>in</strong> the world. The others are the Sami, re<strong>in</strong>deer herders<br />

<strong>in</strong> northern Norway and the Masai, who herd<br />

cattle on the pla<strong>in</strong>s around Mount Kilimanjaro”, says<br />

Nishiyama.<br />

The trek starts <strong>in</strong> the district of Checacupe with a<br />

visit to a colonial-era church built on Inca foundations.<br />

The church conta<strong>in</strong>s pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs and murals of<br />

the Cuzqueña School, as well as the oldest image of<br />

the Immaculate Conception <strong>in</strong> Cusco and probably<br />

the Americas. The route then takes you to Chillca, <strong>in</strong><br />

Uyuni Pampa, where the first lodge is located. Local<br />

musicians welcome you at 4,368 m.a.s.l., with a view<br />

of Mount Jatun Jampa <strong>in</strong> the background.<br />

The next day you cont<strong>in</strong>ue through the glacial valley<br />

of Ph<strong>in</strong>aya, accompanied by thousands of alpacas<br />

and llamas. The route passes the Pjachaj falls, and<br />

after lunch you cont<strong>in</strong>ue climb<strong>in</strong>g through an area of<br />

mora<strong>in</strong>es, glaciers and lakes. A caravan of llamas carried<br />

your equipment as far as Machurracay Tambo,<br />

the second lodge. This one is 4,815 metres above<br />

sea level and, accord<strong>in</strong>g to the company, is the highest<br />

<strong>in</strong> the world. This is where the mounta<strong>in</strong>eers<br />

start there ascent of the peak, and the lodge acts as<br />

a sort of base camp.<br />

“We would say that the normal route is ‘fairly difficult’<br />

(AD)”, says Richard Hidalgo, a <strong>Peru</strong>vian mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<br />

who has conquered numerous peaks <strong>in</strong> the Andes<br />

and 5 of the 14 mounta<strong>in</strong>s <strong>in</strong> the world over 8,000<br />

metres. “You have a gradient of 60º to 75º some 200<br />

metres long, which takes you to a huge plateau. De-<br />

Andean Lodges

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