UJ #9 - Adventure in Peru
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SACRED MOUNTAIN<br />
Right: This route demands<br />
excellent physical fitness,<br />
because its average<br />
altitude is 4,600 m.a.s.l. for<br />
that reason three days of<br />
acclimatisation <strong>in</strong> Cusco<br />
are recommended.<br />
Below: The services of the<br />
four lodges are first class.<br />
Comfortable rooms and<br />
good food.<br />
Diego del Rio<br />
Christian Declercq<br />
Andean Lodges<br />
The most popular trek lasts five days and four nights,<br />
and Andean Lodges offers an outstand<strong>in</strong>g option.<br />
The company has built four lodges on the route,<br />
at an average altitude of 4,683 m.a.s.l. The lodges,<br />
which have different view of Ausangate, have rooms<br />
for sixteen people, private bathrooms with hot water,<br />
and feather duvets; provid<strong>in</strong>g comfort for exhausted<br />
walkers. They have been built to harmonise with their<br />
surround<strong>in</strong>gs, follow<strong>in</strong>g the aesthetics of local architecture.<br />
Services, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g meals, are the responsibility of<br />
members of neighbour<strong>in</strong>g communities, giv<strong>in</strong>g them<br />
closer l<strong>in</strong>ks to the traditions of the local population. At<br />
this altitude farm<strong>in</strong>g is unviable, so local people have<br />
large flocks of llamas and alpacas, which are moved<br />
along ancient tracks. “Most people liv<strong>in</strong>g nearby are<br />
herdsmen, the community of Ausangate and its <strong>in</strong>habitants<br />
be<strong>in</strong>g one of only three societies of this type<br />
<strong>in</strong> the world. The others are the Sami, re<strong>in</strong>deer herders<br />
<strong>in</strong> northern Norway and the Masai, who herd<br />
cattle on the pla<strong>in</strong>s around Mount Kilimanjaro”, says<br />
Nishiyama.<br />
The trek starts <strong>in</strong> the district of Checacupe with a<br />
visit to a colonial-era church built on Inca foundations.<br />
The church conta<strong>in</strong>s pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs and murals of<br />
the Cuzqueña School, as well as the oldest image of<br />
the Immaculate Conception <strong>in</strong> Cusco and probably<br />
the Americas. The route then takes you to Chillca, <strong>in</strong><br />
Uyuni Pampa, where the first lodge is located. Local<br />
musicians welcome you at 4,368 m.a.s.l., with a view<br />
of Mount Jatun Jampa <strong>in</strong> the background.<br />
The next day you cont<strong>in</strong>ue through the glacial valley<br />
of Ph<strong>in</strong>aya, accompanied by thousands of alpacas<br />
and llamas. The route passes the Pjachaj falls, and<br />
after lunch you cont<strong>in</strong>ue climb<strong>in</strong>g through an area of<br />
mora<strong>in</strong>es, glaciers and lakes. A caravan of llamas carried<br />
your equipment as far as Machurracay Tambo,<br />
the second lodge. This one is 4,815 metres above<br />
sea level and, accord<strong>in</strong>g to the company, is the highest<br />
<strong>in</strong> the world. This is where the mounta<strong>in</strong>eers<br />
start there ascent of the peak, and the lodge acts as<br />
a sort of base camp.<br />
“We would say that the normal route is ‘fairly difficult’<br />
(AD)”, says Richard Hidalgo, a <strong>Peru</strong>vian mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<br />
who has conquered numerous peaks <strong>in</strong> the Andes<br />
and 5 of the 14 mounta<strong>in</strong>s <strong>in</strong> the world over 8,000<br />
metres. “You have a gradient of 60º to 75º some 200<br />
metres long, which takes you to a huge plateau. De-<br />
Andean Lodges