ABW Sept 2018-1

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coast of Mindoro. Here we had to shop for supplies for a one-night beach camp we had planned on remote Apo Island. Most importantly, our permit to enter the magnificent Apo Reef protected area had to be organized at the office of the a Department of the Environment and Natural Resources (DENR). We split up and headed out on separate supplygathering missions, then with supplies stowed, started out once more. By early afternoon we had checked into our first beach resort, at North Pandan Island. Nico and Ethel took However, as the sun dropped below the horizon we were invaded by what seemed like millions of sandflies known locally as nik-niks. to a kayak for an early evening paddle along the shoreline, while my son Bali and I, together with Kevin, explored the trails that crisscross the island to remote rocky coves and isolated limestone cliffs. Apo Reef Next morning came exploration of a different kind as Anthony, the dive master from Pandan Resort, took us two hours west to Apo Reef, one of the best dive sites in the Philippines. For the keen divers on board, this was a highlight, the day they had been waiting for, and Ethel, Nico, Kevin and Bruno were abuzz with anticipation. The first dive was as good as it gets; Bali and I snorkeled along the edge of the reef on the first dive, following the bubble line above the team of experienced divers. The bubbles acted as a herding call to the reef fishes below, and many swam much closer to the surface as a result, giving Bali and I a better view. A turtle idled lazily along the reef some 5 meters below us, while much farther down the divers were immersed in natural wonders, swimming among grey reef sharks, turtles, innumerable fish species and a vast array of spectacular corals. There are said to be more coral species in this single reef complex than the whole of the Caribbean Sea. After the second dive, Kevin announced it was the best diving he had ever done. There were beaming smiles all round as we headed for our overnight camp at the southeastern tip of Apo island, a little to the west of the Apo Reef complex. Since 1998, A Japanese lighthouse has been guiding ships around the reef, which sits in the middle of a busy shipping lane. Climbing up to the platform, high above the tree line, we were able to enjoy spectacular views in all directions, with subtle changes in the color of the water revealing the extent of the Apo Reef sanctuary. Much closer to hand, the rusted and decrepit remains of a wreck lay forlorn atop the reef, a reminder of why the lighthouse is necessary. As the day drew on we set a driftwood fire and gathered for a peaceful night, with a full moon clear and bright overhead. However, as the sun dropped below the horizon we were invaded by what seemed like millions of sandflies known locally as nik-niks. The torment of these biting hordes was unbearable for some, and by morning four of our number had retreated to the top of the lighthouse to get above the pests. Meanwhile, the local resident warden slept soundly in his loosely laced tent, while all around him we were scratching, slapping and cursing the night away. By dawn Gary looked like a pincushion, his legs a mass of itching bites. Palawan The next day was an easy 3 hour banca ride to Dimakaya Island, in the Calamian island group north of Palawan Island, where a first-class resort, Club Paradise, awaited us. The main part of the trip was now at an end, with a final trek across Dimakaya Island to the Eagle’s Nest viewing point as a kind of grand finale to our seven days of adventure. After the 500 nautical mile voyage, every one of the nine participants agreed they would do another, and a second trip has already been drawn up to run down the west coast of Palawan Island. The scenery and diving there are superb, and there are many beach resorts to soothe the travel-weary. Five of our number flew back up to Manila from Busuanga while three of us stayed on, one more adventure on our minds. Kevin hadn’t been able to resist the chance to kayak and photograph the cathedral-like limestone karst coves of Coron Island. Travelling overland to its namesake, Busuanga’s main town of Coron, we then took to the water one final time to visit the island with its turquoise lakes that nestle between towering crags. If you’re prepared to drag all your own gear up and over a long set of rough limestone steps, there is some excellent thermocline (neighboring layers of water at very different temperatures) diving to be done in Cayangan Lake. In this case though, we were content to swim, snorkel, sightsee and savour the last hours of our week-long voyage of discovery. Dusk was closing in as we returned to our kayaks, cleared the breakers on the beach and set out for Coron town. A fantastic sunset was brewing on the horizon, a pleasantly cooling breeze was blowing, and right then everything seemed just as it always should be. 34
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