Radical Vertical

What’s that jacket, Margiela?*
* Kayne West Lyric from “N****** in Paris.”
Streetwear is about to dominate fashion.
Generations Y and Z are already the
main growth drivers of the luxury goods
market, contributing 85 percent of luxury
purchases. Sneakers and sweatpants are
boosting luxury brand profits even more
than custom tailoring and evening wear.
It is no coincidence that Louis Vuitton
appointed Virgil Abloh as artistic director
of menswear: streetwear is getting hotter
than ever. For the last few years, the rise of
streetwear has been more than just another
big storyline in fashion. In 2017, Supreme
was reportedly valued at $1 billion, which
underlined that the success of Supreme,
and streetwear in general, are definitively
to be considered game changers in terms
of fashion and culture.
Clothes are becoming
1
more and more casual, inspired by
2 the growing momentum for healthy STREETWEAR - THE
END OF FASHION?
and sporty lifestyles, generating
unprecedented popularity of items such
as sneakers and sweatshirts. Hip-hop has
grown from a subculture into the most
successful genre of the music industry in
the US, surpassing rock. Generation Y and
Z represent a large and growing share of
fashion consumers, and what they want is
community and authenticity. Streetwear
ties to hip-hop but in terms of fashion, what
is left besides its signature casual clothes
like hoodies and tees, graphic logos and
the fixation on sneakers? We asked Simone
Heift, Buying Director of the KaDeWe
Group—one of the most prominent and
distinguished international department
stores, offering over 60,000 square meters
of international designer goods and
exclusive brands—why, even as streetwear
grows into a billion-dollar business, it’s
still not perceived as prestigious, and still
doesn’t signify luxury the way fashion
traditionally has.
WHAT’S THAT JACKET, MARGIELA?*
HH In the German press—and not only there—it has been said
that “Streetwear has become the driver of fashion”. Fact is, hoodies and
sneakers have left Haute Couture behind. Everyday suitability triumphs
over aesthetics (at least for the moment). Where does streetwear drive
fashion in your opinion?
SH Streetwear has had a major impact on fashion in the past,
with NEIL BARRETT and GIVENCHY by Ricardo Tisci already known as
Luxury Streetwear, filling the gap between Contemporary and Luxury
Formal looks. The creation is part of a high-low aesthetic of lifestyles
of the West Coast, Californian kind. Currently, streetwear influences are
clearly leading the way. The fusion with luxury not only brings a whole
new look, but conventional boundaries are resolved. Designers rely on
sneakers, hoodies and tracksuits. Logomania everywhere—not a brand
new, rather, ongoing mega-trend but more present and important than
ever—especially labels like Balenciaga and Off / White, even Valentino
follows the hype. Collaboration follows one another at ultimate speed,
limited editions and new brands become a must-have.
What is changing is mainly that a whole new audience is in
focus—the young ones, informed, with incredible brand awareness and
purchasing power—the millennials are flocking to the luxury brands.
Fashion is increasingly becoming a status symbol, and the leading
labels have mastered the game of desire. The run on various It Pieces
is enormous; they are quickly replaced by new ones. The more limited
the better. Even though streetwear dominates and is authoritative